共查询到18条相似文献，搜索用时 108 毫秒
1.
本文将小波分析用于波群结构和波群中波破碎的研究。实验结果表明,波群中波动的振幅不是关于波群中央对称的,而是波群前部波动的振幅较大。这种不对称性导致波群前部单个波的波陡较大,后部单个波的波陡较小,当谱宽度增大时波群前部与后部单个波的平均波陡之差增大。波群前部波陡较大导致波群前部的波动最容易发生破碎,而不是波群中央的波动最容易发生破碎,波群中波动最可能发生破碎的位置距波群中央的长度为波群长度的1/6。 相似文献
2.
为了研究独立高斯型波群在中等水深条件下的非线性演化情况,进行了多种波况的物理试验,重点分析了波浪各要素对波群非线性演化的影响。试验结果表明,波陡在波群演化中占主导作用,其次是波群的谱宽,前者引起的非线性主要体现在高阶谐波的能量变化而后者引起的非线性主要体现在自由波能量的变化。频带下移现象只在大波陡情况下才会发生,随着波陡的增加,频带下移发生的相对更早,随着波群的谱变窄,频带下移相对越明显。波陡的增加会使得波群更早的开始分裂。大波陡的波群在演化中会发生破碎,破碎的类型以崩破为主,并且崩破是间歇发生的,连续崩破发生的距离约为1.0～1.5倍波长。此外,破碎引起的能量损耗主要来源于主频和高频成分波,耗散率约10%～18%,平均每个崩破能耗约为初始能量的2%。 相似文献
3.
群发性是风浪破碎的显著特征,最近的研究表明风浪破碎研究应该基于波群而不是单个波。本文探讨破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著特征指标。依据一系列风浪破碎实验数据,采用多种判据与实验现场目测的破碎标记信号相结合的原则划分破碎波群与非破碎波群,考查波群特征量、单个波几何特征量、局地破碎判据指标、波包络几何特征量以及波群能量结构特征量等5大类28个指标在破碎波群与非破碎波群上的分布差异。结果表明:波陡、峰前波陡、瞬时波面斜率、运动学判据指标和动力学判据指标等在破碎非破碎波群上的分布几乎没有交叠;后两者尤为理想,分布明显分离,是破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著指标;而其它各指标在破碎波群非破碎波群上的分布都有不同程度的交叠,不能单独依据它们区分破碎波群与非破碎波群。 相似文献
4.
在实际海况中，由于波浪组分方向不同，使海浪常表现为三维短峰波，与二维长峰波相比，有诸多异同特征。为了研究三维畸形波生成和演化过程中异常大波的外部特征以及大波间的关联，本文采用色散和方向聚焦方法在物理水池中模拟了短峰畸形波的整个生成和演化过程。研究结果表明，生成和演化过程中出现的异常大波沿着方向分布函数峰值方向演化，具有一定程度“对称”特征；根据异常大波的特征参数可将该过程分成3～4个典型的阶段，这意味着可以根据异常大波的特征参数判断其所处阶段及预测其演化趋势；三维畸形波生成和演化过程可能会跳过“波群”或者“深谷”阶段，与二维畸形波相比，时-空范围较小，这意味着在三维波浪场中，与畸形波相关的深谷和波群的发生概率较低。 相似文献
5.
本文基于Longuet-Higgins随机波浪模型和JONSWAP谱,进行了大量深水随机波的模拟,获取了畸形波发生概率稳定的随机波列,并对随机波列中的畸形波进行了分析。结果表明,畸形波发生的概率小于基于Rayleigh分布预测结果,且随谱宽的减小而增大。在固定时间段内,畸形波发生的频次服从泊松分布,时间间隔服从指数分布,且随着谱宽的增大,畸形波的发生频次减小,相邻畸形波的发生时间间隔增加。通过小波变换方法分离随机波中的波群,研究了出现畸形波的波群特征,发现一个波群中最多会出现4个畸形波,但是在发生畸形波的波群中,单个畸形波的概率最大。随着谱宽减小,一个波群中包含多个畸形波的概率增加。另外,出现畸形波的波群时间长度服从广义极值分布,随着谱宽减小,畸形波波群的时间跨度增加。 相似文献
6.
海浪的波谱特征分析对认识海浪有重要的意义，因为海浪谱反映了海浪的结构成分。这对海工建筑、海洋运输、船舶制造、海浪预报和海浪模拟等均有重要的实用意义。
波群是伴随海浪经常出现的一种自然现象，且经常伴随大浪的出现而出现。实践证明，波群具有极大的破坏力，其破坏性远比单个波大得多，它是海浪破坏海工建筑物的重要因子，许多防波堤的破坏并非是由单个波的作用，而是由相继出现的几个大波(波群)作用的结果。早先，人们对波群这种习见的现象研究甚少。自1974年葡萄牙锡尼斯港深水防波堤的破坏之后，对波群的研究才日益受到重视。
对波群的研究目前多采用包络方法、马尔科夫链方法和波能过程线法。波群研究的主要内容是波群的统计特征(如波群链长统计)；另外，波群的模拟也是重要的研究内容之一。目前用包络方法研究波群比较普遍，且有不少研究成果。徐德伦等(2001)综述了这方面的研究进展及结果，文圣常等(1984)也进行了详尽的讨论。
以往的研究大都是研究波群的统计特征，如合田良实(1976)、 Ewing(1973)、Rye(1974)。而针对地域性的波浪，我国学者也只是以包络方法为基础讨论了不同地域海浪波群的统计特征(常德馥，1987；葛明达，1986；范顺庭，1998)。就波群本身的结构特征而言，即波群的波谱分析特征以往的研究涉及尚少。作者拟借助于谱分析方法，对带有典型波群的实测的海浪记录来分析海浪波群的波谱结构，进而借此对海浪波群的结构特征进行深入探讨。 相似文献
7.
利用南麂海洋站１９８１－１９９０年实测波浪资料，探讨了该海域风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄的统计分布特征。分析结果：当风浪平均波陡介于０．０２－０．０４时，其出现频率各季在８２％以上；当风浪平均波龄介于０．５－１．２时，其出现频率各季在７８％以上；当风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄介于０．０２－０．０４和０．５－１．０时，其出现频率为５３．５％－６９．６％。 相似文献
8.
畸形波波形与其所处海况特征密切相关。在线性、窄谱假定下，最可能出现的畸形波波形服从“新波”理论，即最大波位于波群中间且其前后相邻波浪对称。然而，实际海浪谱通常是包含多种频率成分的宽谱。目前对实测畸形波及其附近波面形态特征仍缺乏系统认知，对其影响因素尚不明确。本文基于挪威海气象观测站共112个畸形波序列，分析实测畸形波波形及影响因素。研究表明，只有52%的畸形波在波群中间，其余畸形波在波群前侧的概率更高。此外，畸形波前后相邻波浪并不完全对称，其中位于后侧的波幅普遍更大。通过定量分析实测畸形波的平均波形与“新波”理论结果，发现谱宽是影响畸形波波形的关键参数。随谱宽增加，畸形波的平均波形与“新波”理论得到的波面序列误差呈指数增加。 相似文献
9.
海浪的波谱特征分析对认识海浪有重要的意义,因为海浪谱反映了海浪的结构成分。这对海工建筑、海洋运输、船舶制造、海浪预报和海浪模拟等均有重要的实用意义。 波群是伴随海浪经常出现的一种自然现象,且经常伴随大浪的出现而出现。实践证明,波群具有极大的破坏力,其破坏性远比单个波大得多,它是海浪破坏海工建筑物的重要因子,许多防波堤的破坏并非是由单个波的作用,而是由相继出现的几个大波(波群)作用的结果。早先,人们对波群这种习见的现象研究甚少。自1974年葡萄牙锡尼斯港深水防波堤的破坏之后,对波群的研究才日益受到重视。 相似文献
10.
实验室一般采用波浪聚焦方法生成深水破碎波，通过各组分波浪的波幅叠加生成一个波高显著增大的大波，使其波陡超过极限波陡发生破碎。利用该方法生成深水破碎波浪的破碎次数通常并不唯一，导致波浪破碎后的流场特征不明显；造波参数不易于选取导致研究工况的设置难度大，直接影响深水破碎精细化实验的效果和效率。本文采用聚焦波理论计算波面，并利用上跨零点法定义的波高和波长计算理论波陡，结合物理模型实验统计波浪沿程破碎次数与剧烈程度，研究以JONSWAP谱为造波输入谱型时，聚焦波幅、谱峰频率、频宽等造波输入参数对于波浪破碎情况的影响，从而建立深水波浪破碎次数与造波输入参数之间的近似定量关系，为实验造波参数的选取提供参考，提高实验效率。 相似文献
11.
Knowledge on intermittency of wave breaking is so far limited to a few summary statistics, while the probability distribution of time interval between breaking events can provide a full view of intermittency. Based on a series of experiments on wind wave breaking, such probability distributions are investigated. Breaking waves within a wave group were taken as a single breaking event according to recent studies. Interval between successive wave groups with breaker is the focus of this paper. For intervals in our experiments with different fetch and wind conditions, their distributions are all skewed and weighted on small intervals. Results of Kolmogorov-Smirnov tests on time series of these intervals indicate that they all follow gamma distribution, and some are even exponential type. Average breaking-group-interval decreases with friction velocity and significant steepness until the wind is strong enough;most of them are more than 10 times the dominant wave period. Group breaking probability proposed by Babanin recently and the average number of breaking waves in wave groups are also discussed, and they are seemingly more reasonable and sensitive than traditional breaking probability defined in terms of single wave. 相似文献
12.
为了解极端波浪非线性特征,明确波群在演化过程中的水动力学特性,针对一系列高斯波群进行了深水物理试验分析。试验结果显示,增加波陡或波群宽度,均可使波面偏度Sk发生明显变化,尤其当波浪发生破碎后,在破碎区域内,波面偏度变化范围剧烈增大,说明该偏度极大值可能作为判断破碎的一个指标。波陡和波群宽度对波面不对称度影响程度不同:当波陡或波群宽度增加后,波峰不对称度所受影响最大,波峰前端波谷不对称度次之,波峰后端波谷不对称度所受影响最小,但仍不可忽略。在波浪演化过程中,幅值谱出现不同程度频带下移,波浪破碎后,会出现永久频带下移;当调制不稳定发生时,随着调制不稳定指数增加,频带下移量呈现快速增长趋势。 相似文献
13.
Momoki Koga 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(2):105-114
The relation between the intensity of breaking of individual wind-wave crests and parameters of wave size and wave form (e. g., height, period, steepness and skewness) is examined, and the process of change of these parameters is studied in a wind-wave
tank (reference wind speed 15 m sec−1, fetch 16 m). Distributions of the wave form parameters are different for breaking and nonbreaking waves. Fully breaking
waves seem to hold the relationH ∞T
2, whereH is the individual wave height andT is the period. The condition of breaking is not simply determined by the simple criterion of Stokes' limit. Wave height and
steepness of a breaking wave are not always larger than those of a nonbreaking wave. This suggests the existence of an overshooting
phenomenon in the breaking wave. The wave form parameters are found to change cyclically in a statistical sense during the
wave propagation. The period of the cycle in the present case is estimated to be longer than four wave periods. An intermittency
of wave breaking is associated with this cyclic process. Roughly speaking, two or three succeeding breaking-waves sporadically
exist among a series of nonbreaking waves along the fetch. 相似文献
14.
The experimental studies of the breaking effects on wave statistics for deep-water random waves are presented. It is especially focused on the behavior of kurtosis of surface elevations due to wave breaking. Wave breaking suppresses the maximum limit of kurtosis of the surface elevation, although skewness depends on characteristic wave steepness. The mean instantaneous wave steepness of breaking waves defined using the zero-down-crossing method was much lower than expected from the Stokes waves. 相似文献
15.
《Applied Ocean Research》2005,27(4-5):235-250
The present study describes an experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action. In a wind wave flume, waves were generated using different wind speeds and measured at different locations to obtain wave trains of no, intermittent, or frequent breaking. Water particle movement and free surface elevation were measured simultaneously using a PIV system and a wave gauge, respectively. For wind waves, not all the waves measured at a fixed location are breaking waves, and the breaking of a larger wave is not guaranteed. However, the larger the wave height, the larger the probability of breaking. In order to take as many breaking waves as possible for the cases of frequent breaking, we used the waves whose heights were close to the highest one-tenth wave height. The experimental results showed that the geometric or kinematic breaking criteria could not explain the occurrence of breaking of wind waves. On the other hand, the vertical acceleration beneath the wave crest was close to the previously suggested limit value, −0.5g, when frequent breaking of large waves occurred, indicating that the dynamic breaking criterion would be good for discriminating breaking waves under a strong wind action. 相似文献
16.
The experimental studies of the wave breaking effects on freak wave generation are presented within a finite-depth random wave train in a laboratory wave tank. The main attention is paid to the abnormal index,AI=Hmax/Hs,being used to characterize the freak waves,and the changes of the coefficient due to wave breaking. The results show that the occurrence probability of freak wave events in non-breaking waves is much larger than that in breaking waves and such occurrence in deep water is larger than that in ... 相似文献
17.
More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable. 相似文献
18.
This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic. 相似文献