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1.
An unstable rock volume of more than 50 million m3 has been detected in the Åkerneset rock slope in the narrow fjord, Storfjorden, Møre & Romsdal County, Western Norway. If large portions of the volume are released as a whole, the rockslide will generate a tsunami that may be devastating to several settlements and numerous visiting tourists along the fjord. The threat is analysed by a multidisciplinary approach spanning from rock-slope stability via rockslide and wave mechanics to hazard zoning and risk assessment.The rockslide tsunami hazard and the tsunami early-warning system related to the two unstable rock slopes at Åkerneset and Hegguraksla in the complex fjord system are managed by Åknes/Tafjord Beredskap IKS (previously the Åknes/Tafjord project). The present paper focuses on the tsunami analyses performed for this company to better understand the effects of rockslide-generated tsunamis from Åkerneset and Hegguraksla. Two- and three-dimensional site-specific laboratory experiments are conducted to study the generation, propagation, and run-up of the wave for several potential rockslide scenarios from Åkerneset. Furthermore, the two models GloBouss and DpWaves are applied for numerical simulations of the generation/propagation phase and a third model MOST is applied for numerical simulations of the near-shore propagation and inundation of the wave in selected locations. Strong emphasis is put on verification, validation, and sensitivity of the numerical models. The best match between the numerical simulations and the laboratory experiments is found for the larger scenarios with the linear dispersive solution for the propagation phase; the corresponding calculated run-up values are remarkably similar to the ones observed during the laboratory experiments.During the risk assessment it was found that the rockslide tsunami hazard (probability of impact) is higher than accepted by the Norwegian Planning and Building Act. This should at that time prevent any further development in all the exposed areas of the entire fjord system. The Act is today altered to open for specified further development in the various hazard zones. The results of the tsunami analyses are applied in risk management in terms of hazard map production and land-use planning. Two failure scenarios for each of the two unstable rock slopes are designed for the hazard zoning. The larger and less probable scenarios (1 in 5000 years) are applied for evacuation zones and routes, while the smaller and more probable scenarios (larger than 1 in 1000 years) are applied for location and design of less critical facilities accepted in the inundation zone.  相似文献   

2.
Uncertainty in the behaviour of future storm events and extreme water levels means that the introduction of Early Warning Systems for coastal inundation risk at vulnerable local sites becomes increasing paramount. In this study the coupled hydro-morphodynamic model XBeach is used at two sites along the Emilia-Romagna coastline in northern Italy to predict coastal inundation risk in the presence of coastal structures and temporary artificial dunes. These dunes are typically formed by beach scraping and are used on this coastline to protect beach-front infrastructure during the winter period. Coastal inundation risk is defined by the cross-shore distance between the seaward edge of the building and the time-varying waterline predicted by XBeach. A series of synthetic storm events as well as a real-world scenario that caused dune failure at one of the sites are tested. Comparisons between XBeach results and the Van Der Meer empirical formula for wave transmission behind offshore structures show a very strong agreement, while the real-world scenario indicates promising model prediction performance of dune failure at least one day in advance. A new model tool known as DuneMaker is developed that modifies XBeach model grids to simulate the impacts of scraped/placed artificial dunes of varying size, shape and configuration. The use of this tool is demonstrated on the same model test runs, where it is shown that improved dune design can reduce the predicted coastal inundation risk at critical points of vulnerability identified by the model.  相似文献   

3.
《Ocean Modelling》2008,20(3):252-269
The effects of wave–current interactions on the storm surge and inundation induced by Hurricane Hugo in and around the Charleston Harbor and its adjacent coastal regions are examined by using a three-dimensional (3-D) wave–current coupled modeling system. The 3-D storm surge and inundation modeling component of the coupled system is based on the Princeton ocean model (POM), whereas the wave modeling component is based on the third-generation wave model, simulating waves nearshore (SWAN). The results indicate that the effects of wave-induced surface, bottom, and radiation stresses can separately or in combination produce significant changes in storm surge and inundation. The effects of waves vary spatially. In some areas, the contribution of waves to peak storm surge during Hurricane Hugo reached as high as 0.76 m which led to substantial changes in the inundation and drying areas simulated by the storm surge model.  相似文献   

4.
The disastrous tsunami of December 26, 2004, exposed the urgent need for implementing a tsunami warning system. One of the essential requirements of a tsunami warning system is the set up of tsunami inundation models which can predict inundation and run-up along a coastline for a given set of seismic parameters. The Tsunami Warning Centre and the State/District level Disaster Management Centres should have tsunami inundations maps for different scenarios of tsunami generation. In the event of a tsunamigenic earthquake, appropriate decisions on issue of warnings and/or evacuation of coastal population are made by referring to such maps. The nature of tsunami inundation and run-up along the Kerala coast for the 2004 Sumatra and 1945 Makran, and a hypothetical worst-case scenario are simulated using the TUNAMI N2 model and the results are presented in this paper. Further, scenarios of tsunami inundation arising out of possible rise in sea level as projected by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC 2001) are also simulated and analysed in the paper. For the study, three representative sectors of the Kerala coast including the Neendakara-Kayamkulam coast, which was the worst hit by the 2004 tsunami, are chosen. The results show that the southern locations and certain locations of central Kerala coast are more vulnerable for Sumatra when compared to Makran 1945 tsunami. From the results of numerical modelling for future scenarios it can be concluded that sea level rise can definitely make pronounced increase in inundation in some of the stretches where the backshore elevation is comparatively low.  相似文献   

5.
为提高厦门防御台风风暴潮灾害风险的能力,辅助政府部门开展海洋防灾减灾工作,文章基于风暴潮数值模型开发厦门风暴潮淹没风险预警系统,并以1521号台风为例模拟其淹没风险。研究结果表明:风暴潮数值模型能较好地刻画影响厦门的台风风暴潮过程,满足风暴潮淹没风险分析需求;厦门风暴潮淹没风险预警系统采用按警戒潮位预警和按高程预警2种方法分析风暴潮淹没风险,可对影响程度不同的岸段采取不同的预警和防御措施;基于数值模型的风暴潮淹没范围与实地调查区域的淹没范围基本一致,可对未开展实地调查区域的淹没范围进行补充;今后须进一步完善厦门风暴潮淹没风险预警系统,同时建立厦门风暴潮风险评价体系。  相似文献   

6.
浙江沿海潜在区域地震海啸风险分析   总被引:1,自引:2,他引:1  
采用COMCOT海啸模型建立三重网格模型模拟了2011年3月11日日本东北部9.0级地震引发的海啸发生、发展以及在我国东南沿海传播过程。震源附近浮标站以及浙江沿海的潮位站实测资料验证结果显示,大部分监测站首波到达时间和海啸波的计算值相差在15%以内,表明模型可较好的模拟海啸在计算域内的传播过程。研究表明日本南海海槽、冲绳海槽以及琉球海沟南部是影响浙江沿海主要的区域潜在震源,通过情景计算分别模拟3个潜在震源9.1级、8.0级和8.7级地震引发的海啸对浙江沿海的海啸风险,计算结果表明,海啸波产生后可在3~8h内传至浙江省沿岸,海啸波达1~3m,最大可达4m,此时浙江沿岸面临Ⅲ~Ⅳ级海啸风险,达到淹没至严重淹没等级。  相似文献   

7.
The numerical modeling of coastal inundation from severe cyclones is a challenging area for coastal hazard mapping, emergency planning and evacuation measures. There is a need for realistic estimate of onshore coastal inundation by the operational weather centers for precise warnings to minimize loss of life and property. At present, there is no modeling effort to evaluate the extent of coastal inundation for any coastal state in India. The operational center disseminates information only on peak surge and its location just before cyclone landfall, with no prior information about onshore inundation. To bridge this gap, the present study applies the state-of-art ADCIRC hydrodynamic model to evaluate peak surge and onshore inundation along coastal Tamil Nadu for the December 2011 Thane cyclone event. Post-storm analysis and field reconnaissance survey report from IMD and ICMAM were available for the Thane cyclone to skill assess model computation. The model that computed peak surge and onshore inundation is in good concurrence with field measurements. The study signifies that near-shore beach slope has a direct bearing on onshore inundation, and its importance in numerical modeling is highlighted. This study being first of its kind for Indian coast, emphasized that coastal inundation modeling should form an integral part in a storm surge prediction system for operational needs.  相似文献   

8.
This paper presents a new submarine landslide model based on the non-hydrostatic wave model NHWAVE of Ma et al. (2012). The landslide is modeled as a water–sediment mixture. The dense plume is driven by baroclinic pressure forcing introduced by spatial density variations. The model is validated using laboratory measurements of turbidity currents and of water wave generation by a granular landslide. The model is then utilized to study the dependence of landslide motion and associated tsunami wave generation on parameters including sediment settling velocity, initial depth of the landslide and slide density. Model results show that the slide motion and water waves which it generates are both sensitive to these parameters. The relative tsunamigenic response to rigid and deformable landslides of equal initial geometry and density is also examined. It is found that the wave energy is mostly concentrated on a narrow band of the dominant slide direction for the waves generated by rigid landslides, while directional spreading is more significant for waves generated by deformable landslides. The deformable landslide has larger speed and acceleration at the early stage of landslide, resulting in larger surface waves. The numerical results indicate that the model is capable of reasonably simulating tsunami wave generation by submarine landslides.  相似文献   

9.
Wave types of landslide generated impulse waves   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
Subaerial landslide generated impulse waves were investigated in a prismatic wave channel. Seven governing parameters, namely the still water depth, slide impact velocity, slide thickness, bulk slide volume, bulk slide density, slide impact angle, and grain diameter, were systematically varied. The generated impulse waves are nonlinear, intermediate- to shallow-water waves involving a small to considerable fluid mass transport. The Stokes wave, cnoidal wave, solitary wave, and bore theories were applied to describe the observed maximum waves. The theoretical and observed features of these four wave types are highlighted. A diagram allows to predict the wave type directly as a function of the slide parameters, the slide impact angle, and the still water depth.  相似文献   

10.
Physical modeling of long waves in laboratories is still a valuable and trustworthy option to study long wave propagation, run-up and near-shore dynamics, and complex nonlinear interactions of approaching wave and macroroughness elements on the shore. Yet, problems develop if full-scale measured time series of real tsunami or numerically derived time series are to be adequately modeled in a timewise meaningful and scaled experiment. Hence, an in-depth review of the state-of-the-art long wave generation methods in laboratory wave flumes and basins is conducted. The study reveals that improved laboratory techniques could significantly contribute to enhance the accuracy and applicability of experimental tests. This would give important information on the interaction between the shoreline and infrastructures on land in order to deduce valuable information on the topic of tsunami inundation processes or wave-induced impacts on houses. In this light, a novel wave generation technique using high-capacity pipe pumps under some control and a loop-feedback control is meticulously developed and discussed. The wave generation facility is successfully tested for single sinusoidal leading depression waves as well as for prolonged solitary and leading depression N-waves of varying duration. The long wave generation technique is further assessed in terms of its capability to generate long waves abstracted from prototype conditions. The influence of controller settings on the resulting waves is discussed.  相似文献   

11.
The design of fixed or floating offshore structures requires accurate information of the met-ocean data at the intended offshore site. In the design process it is recognized that this environmental data is modified in the near-field by the interaction with the particular geometrical configuration of the offshore structure. This transformation of the incident wave field around and beneath an offshore structure presents a challenge for ocean engineers when specifying the wave gap elevation to avoid impact loads on the underside of the deck and inundation of the topsides. Thus, the accurate estimation of the wave crest distributions from measurements at various locations near and under the offshore structure during model test studies is essential. A semi-empirical approach is presented herein that builds upon the findings of previous studies and introduces the Method of L-moments. A three parameter model for a wave crest probability distribution function is presented and explicit relationships between the parameters of the distribution and its’ first three L-Moments are established. Furthermore, three narrow-band models from earlier research studies are reviewed and compared with the new model. Wave measurements from a mini-TLP model test program are used as the basis for comparison of the four distributions. The root-mean-square error is used as a metric to quantify the overall fit of the data and its accuracy in the high end tail of the data. The L-Moment model is shown to be more robust in representing the data in both the far-field and beneath the deck of the mini-TLP where the wave field demonstrates increased non-linear behavior.  相似文献   

12.
Using an integrated approach including satellite imagery analysis, field measurements, and numerical modeling, we investigated the damage to mangroves caused by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami at Pakarang Cape in Pang Nga Province, Thailand. Comparing pre- and post-tsunami satellite imagery of the study area, we found that approximately 70% of the mangrove forest was destroyed by the tsunami. Based on field observations, we found that the survival rate of mangroves increased with increasing stem diameter. Specifically, we found that 72% of Rhizophora trees with a 25–30 cm stem diameter survived the tsunami impact, whereas only 19% with a 15–20 cm stem diameter survived. We simulated the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami using the nonlinear shallow-water wave theory to reproduce the tsunami inundation flow and investigated the bending moment acting on the mangrove trees. Results of the numerical model showed that the tsunami inundated areas along the mangrove creeks, and its current velocity reached 5.0 m s−1. Based on the field measurements and numerical results, we proposed a fragility function for mangroves, which is the relationship between the probability of damage and the bending stress caused by the maximum bending moment. We refined the numerical model to include the damage probability of mangrove forests using the obtained fragility function to investigate the tsunami reduction effect of mangrove forest. Under simple numerical conditions related to the mangrove forest, ground level, and incident wave, the model showed that a mangrove forest of Rhizophora sp. with a density of 0.2 trees m−2 and a stem diameter of 15 cm in a 400 m wide area can reduce the tsunami inundation depth by 30% when the incident wave is assumed to have a 3.0 m inundation depth and a wave period of 30 min at the shoreline. However, 50% of the mangrove forest is destroyed by a 4.5 m tsunami inundation depth, and most of the mangrove forest is destroyed by a tsunami inundation depth greater than 6 m. The reduction effect of tsunami inundation depth decreased when the tsunami inundation depth exceeded 3 m, and was mostly lost when the tsunami inundation depth exceeded 6 m.  相似文献   

13.
Hydrographic observations in deep Fram Strait evidence a plume of Storfjorden Brine-enriched Shelf Water in 1986, 1988 and 2002. The plume spreads along the continental slope over 600 km away from its formation area and reaches 2000 m depth. The plume is 30 to 80 m thick in the deep layer of Fram Strait; it is almost 0.4 °C warmer and 0.06 more saline than the ambient water. The velocity of the plume, observed by a moored current meter in Fram Strait, is 12.60±4.70 cm s−1 .The hydrographic properties of the plume are used to study entrainment. A streamtube model with four entrainment parameterizations is applied. Two Froude-number dependent parameterizations lead to mixing mostly happening over the shelf break, where the Froude number is large. This is in agreement with the traditional view, but is inconsistent with the observed temperature and salinity of the Storfjorden plume. Therefore further entrainment assumptions (a constant and a volume-dependent entrainment) are tested. The volume-dependent entrainment scheme yields the best representation of entrainment in the Storfjorden plume. Our results emphasize the necessity of strong mixing in the deep layers in Fram Strait to achieve an agreement with observed properties of the plume.  相似文献   

14.
The newly developed nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, using a hybrid finite-difference finite-volume TVD-type scheme, is coupled with the wave model SWAN in the Nearshore Community Model (NearCoM) system. The new modeling system is named NearCoM-TVD and the purpose of this study is to report the capability and limitation of NearCoM-TVD for several coastal applications. For tidal inlet applications, the model is verified with the semi-analytical solution of Keulegan (1967) for an idealized inlet-bay system. To further evaluate the model performance in predicting nearshore circulation under intense wave–current interaction over complex bathymetry, modeled circulation patterns are validated with measured data during RCEX field experiment (MacMahan et al., 2010). For sediment transport applications, two sediment transport models are applied to predict three sandbar migration events at Duck, NC, during August to October 1994 (Gallagher et al., 1998). The model of Kobayashi et al. (2008) incorporates wave-induced onshore sediment transport rate as a function of the standard deviation of wave-induced horizontal velocities. The modeled beach profile evolution for two offshore events and one onshore event agrees well with the measured data. The second model investigated here combines two published sediment transport models, namely, the total load model driven by currents under the effect of wave stirring (Soulsby, 1997) and the wave-driven sediment transport model due to wave asymmetry/skewness (van Rijn et al., 2011). The model study with limited field data suggests that the parameterization of wave stirring is appropriate during energetic wave conditions. However, during low energy wave conditions, the effect of wave stirring needs to be re-calibrated.  相似文献   

15.
对淀山湖进行了风场和风浪场的现场观测。分别利用规范公式和SWAN模型计算了湖区风浪场的波高,并将计算结果和现场观测值进行了比较,比较说明两种方法的计算结果存在比较明显的差别。可为今后的相关工作提供借鉴和参考,并可为淀山湖的进一步治理积累必要的工作基础。  相似文献   

16.
王爱军  叶翔  陈坚 《海洋学报》2009,31(6):77-86
通过对"凤凰"台风的现场观测和沉积物样品的分析,结果表明,在台风影响下潮水淹没时间增长,增水达1.1 m;台风期间互花米草盐沼内流速变化较复杂,而且盐沼内部流速大于盐沼边缘的;台风期间盐沼边缘潮周期平均悬沙含量是台风前2 d的7倍;台风期间十分之一波高最大为1.54 m。滩面重复测量结果显示,台风登陆期间整个光滩滩面都发生了侵蚀,盐沼内部有部分地区发生侵蚀,侵蚀深度为4.5~5.5 cm,盐沼边缘的侵蚀深度仅为0.7 cm,侵蚀原因主要是植被在风浪作用下从根部折断,从而带走了滩面的沉积物;随着台风强度的减弱,整个滩面均接受悬沙沉降;台风带来的强降雨是影响滩面沉积物活动的重要因素。  相似文献   

17.
In the design of any floating or fixed marine structure, it is vital to test models in order to understand the fluid/structure interaction involved. A relatively inexpensive method, compared to physical model testing, of achieving this is to numerically model the structure and the wave conditions in a numerical wave tank. In this paper, a methodology for accurately replicating measured ocean waves in a numerical model at full scale is detailed. A Fourier analysis of the measured record allows the wave to be defined as a summation of linear waves and, therefore, Airy's linear wave theory may be used to input the wave elevation and associated water particle velocities. Furthermore, a structure is introduced into the model to display the ability of the model to accurately predict wave–structure interaction. A case study of three individual measured waves, which are recorded at the Atlantic marine energy test site, off the west coast of Ireland, is also presented. The accuracy of the model to replicate the measured waves and perform wave–structure interaction is found to be very high. Additionally, the absolute water particle velocity profile below the wave from the numerical model is compared to a filtered analytical approximation of the measured wave at a number of time-steps and is in very good agreement.  相似文献   

18.
Coastal topography is the principal variable that affects the movement of the tsunami wave on land. Therefore, land surface elevation data are critical to a tsunami model for computing extent of inundation. Elevation data from India's remote sensing satellite CARTOSAT-1 are available for the entire Indian coastline, while elevation data collected using Airborne Laser Terrain Mapper (ALTM) are only available for selected sections of the coastline. This study was carried out to evaluate the suitability of CARTOSAT-1 and ALTM elevation data sets in the tsunami inundation modeling. Two areas of the coastal Tamil Nadu that were severely affected during the December 2004 tsunami and surveyed extensively for mapping the extent of inundation were selected as the study areas. Elevation data sets from ALTM, CARTOSAT-1 and field measurement collected using Real-time Kinematic GPS (RTK-GPS) were compared for these areas. The accuracy of ALTM and CARTOSAT-1 data, the significance of interpolation methods and data used on model outputs were studied. The analysis clearly revealed that the elevation accuracy of CARTOSAT-1 data (+/?2m) was much lower than ALTM data (+/?0.6m). However, it was found that despite the differing elevation accuracy, both ALTM and CARTOSAT-1 can be used to produce tsunami inundation maps for open coasts with an accuracy of 185 m (2 grid cells) at 75% and 50% confidence level, respectively.  相似文献   

19.
This paper provides an overview of a new large scale laboratory data set on the kinematics of breaking tsunami wavefronts. The aim of the experiments was to provide an open access data set for model testing, calibration and verification, with particular emphasis on fluid kinematics in the wave breaking and run-up (swash) zones. The experiments were performed over a composite slope in the tsunami wave basin at the O. H. Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory at Oregon State University. Data for ten different wave conditions were collected, including non-breaking and breaking waves, and both shore breaks and fully developed long bores.Surface elevation and fluid kinematics were measured with a closely spaced array of surface piercing wave gauges, non-contact ultrasonic wave gauges and four 3-D side-looking Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters. The array was traversed from the nearshore (depth = 0.2 m) to the middle and upper run-up zone, providing kinematic data at 30 cross-shore locations. Video was also recorded from 4 cameras covering the propagation, breaking and run-up zones. Surface elevation, flow velocities and the wave maker displacement were also recorded to provide offshore boundary conditions.The experiments include conditions with wave heights up to 0.55 m, notional wave periods up to 20 s and run-up lengths of up to 15.2 m on a 1/30 slope. In terms of the slope in the shoaling and breaker zones, the data correspond to Iribarren numbers in the range of 0.26–5.6. Raw, calibrated and processed data are stored with open access within the OSU Tsunami Wave Basin Experiment Notebook, which provides full access to all the wave maker control signals, data, instrument coordinates, and processing and plotting software. This paper serves as an introduction to the data set, demonstrates data quality and provides an initial analysis of some key parameters that govern the impact of tsunami events, including run-up versus offshore wave conditions and nearshore bore height, the maximum inundation depths at the original shoreline position, and the time to maximum inundation depth and flow reversal. Examples of temporal and convective accelerations and turbulent flow components are also presented to illustrate further details of the kinematics.  相似文献   

20.
This paper presents optical measurements of tsunami inundation through an urban waterfront in a laboratory wave basin. The physical model was constructed at 1:50 scale and was an idealization of the town of Seaside, Oregon. The fixed-bed model was designed to study the initial inundation zone along an urban waterfront, such that the flow around several large buildings could be observed. This paper presents an analysis of the optical measurements made with two overhead video cameras, focusing on tracking the leading edge of the tsunami inundation through the urban waterfront and quantifies the accuracy of the algorithm used to track the edge. The results show that the methodology provides high-resolution information in both time and space of the leading edge position, and that these data can be used to quantify the influence of large macro-roughness features on the tsunami inundation processes in laboratory settings. The overall effect of the macro-roughness was to decrease the bore propagation speed relative to the control section with no macro-roughness. The bore speed could be reduced by as much as 40% due to the presence of the macro-roughness relative to the control section.  相似文献   

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