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1.
The ability to robustly predict future shoreline position under the influence of changing waves and sea-level rise is a key challenge to scientists and engineers alike. While extrapolating a linear trend out in time is a common baseline approach, the recent development of a number of empirical shoreline models allows the prediction of storm and annual-scale variability as well. The largest constraint in applying these models is the availability of high quality, adequate duration data sets in order to calibrate model free parameters. This contribution outlines several such models and discusses the monitoring programs required to calibrate and hindcast shoreline change from 1 to 10 years at two distinct beach types: a storm-dominated site and the second exhibiting a large seasonal variability. The seasonally-dominated site required longer data sets but was less sensitive to sampling interval, while the storm-dominated site converged on shorter, more frequently sampled data sets. In general, calibration based on a single year of observed shorelines resulted in a large range of model skill and was not considered robust. Monitoring programs of at least two years, with shorelines sampled at dt ≤ 30 days were sufficient to determine initial estimates of calibration coefficients and hindcast short-term (1–5 years) shoreline variability. In the presence of unresolved model processes and noise, hindcasting longer (5 + years) data sets required longer (5 + years) calibration data sets, particularly when sampling intervals exceeded 60 days. 相似文献
2.
The possibility of using wave farms for coastal defence warrants investigation because wave energy is poised to become a major renewable in many countries over the next decades. The fundamental question in this regard is whether a wave farm can be used to reduce beach erosion under storm conditions. If the answer to this question is positive, then a wave farm can have coastal defence as a subsidiary function, in addition to its primary role of producing carbon-free energy. The objective of this work is to address this question by comparing the response of a beach in the face of a storm in two scenarios: with and without the wave farm. For this comparison a set of ad hoc impact indicators is developed: the bed level impact (BLI), beach face eroded area (FEA), non-dimensional erosion reduction (NER), and mean cumulative eroded area (CEA); and their values are determined by means of two coupled models: a high-resolution wave propagation model (SWAN) and a coastal processes model (XBeach). The study is conducted through a case study: Perranporth Beach (UK). Backed by a well-developed dune system, Perranporth has a bar between − 5 m and − 10 m. The results show that the wave farm reduces the eroded volume by as much as 50% and thus contributes effectively to coastal protection. This synergy between marine renewable energy and coastal defence may well contribute to improving the viability of wave farms through savings in conventional coastal protection. 相似文献
3.
Large-scale wave reanalysis databases (0.1°–1° spatial resolution) provide valuable information for wave climate research and ocean applications which require long-term time series (> 20 years) of hourly sea state parameters. However, coastal studies need a more detailed spatial resolution (50–500 m) including wave transformation processes in shallow waters. This specific problem, called downscaling, is usually solved applying a dynamical approach by means of numerical wave propagation models requiring a high computational time effort. Besides, the use of atmospheric reanalysis and wave generation and propagation numerical models introduce some uncertainties and errors that must be dealt with. In this work, we present a global framework to downscale wave reanalysis to coastal areas, taking into account the correction of open sea significant wave height (directional calibration) and drastically reducing the CPU time effort (about 1000 ×) by using a hybrid methodology which combines numerical models (dynamical downscaling) and mathematical tools (statistical downscaling). The spatial wave variability along the boundaries of the propagation domain and the simultaneous wind fields are taking into account in the numerical propagations to performance similarly to the dynamical downscaling approach. The principal component analysis is applied to the model forcings to reduce the data dimension simplifying the selection of a subset of numerical simulations and the definition of the wave transfer function which incorporates the dependency of the wave spatial variability and the non-uniform wind forcings. The methodology has been tested in a case study on the northern coast of Spain and validated using shallow water buoys, confirming a good reproduction of the hourly time series structure and the different statistical parameters. 相似文献
4.
This contribution describes the development, calibration and verification of a 1-D behaviour-orientated shoreline prediction model. The model primarily encapsulates shoreline displacement forced by wave-driven cross-shore sediment transport. Hysteresis effects are shown to be important and are included in the model, whereby present shoreline change is influenced by past hydro-/morpho-dynamic conditions. The potential magnitude of shoreline change increases with incident wave power and the degree of disequilibrium. The latter disequilibrium term (Ωeq − Ω) is expressed in terms of the time-evolving equilibrium (Ωeq) and instantaneous (Ω) dimensionless fall velocities and dictates the direction of shoreline movement. Following Wright et al. (1985) the equilibrium fall velocity is defined as a function of the weighted antecedent conditions and is a proxy for the evolving beach state. The decay rate of the weighting function used to compute Ωeq is a model free parameter determined by calibration against measured data, which physically reflects the degree of observed ‘memory’ of the system. The decay in amplitude of this weighting function with time is controlled by a ‘memory decay’ term (ϕ), where the weighting reaches 10%, 1% and 0.1% at ϕ, 2ϕ and 3ϕ days prior to the current calculation time. The model is applied to two multi-year (6 + years) data sets incorporating hourly wave and weekly shoreline measurements, from two contrasting energetic sites in SE Australia. The first is the relatively dissipative, straight Gold Coast (QLD) and the second is a more intermediate embayed beach at Narrabeen (NSW). The model shows significant skill at hindcasting shoreline change at both sites, predicting approximately 60% of the total shoreline variability. The Gold Coast shoreline is dominated by a strong seasonal signal. Conversely, at the Narrabeen embayment, shoreline variability (and morphology) is more dynamic, responding at storm frequency. Evidence suggests that there is a strong coherence between the shoreline position and morphodynamic state and that both have response times characterised by ϕ. It is hypothesised that optimised ϕ values in the shoreline model physically relate to the efficiency of sediment exchanges between the shoreface and offshore bars and the prevalence of one- or two-dimensional horizontal circulation. The general success of this new shoreline model for hindcasting the observed shoreline behaviour at two distinctly different open-coast sites suggests that this approach may be suitable for broader application. 相似文献
5.
A diagnostic of coastal erosion and shoreline retreat occurring at a 7-km long sandy beach (Littoral Cell III) located in Todos Santos Bay (Baja California, Mexico) is performed trough the analysis of aerial photographs. Around 82,000 m2 of this sandy beach have been lost in a 20 year period (1985–2005), at a beach loss rate of 2,100 m2 per year. This indicates that coastal erosion is becoming a hazard to human lives and coastal infrastructure. Due to the latter, the implementation of a Shoreline Erosion Management Plan (SEMP) is proposed as the best management approach to deal with the problem. The Littoral Cell III SEMP considers four core policies, eight management strategies and a group of specific measures. 相似文献
6.
Sixty-one Global Positioning System (GPS), sub-aerial beach surveys were completed at 7 km long Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA (USA), between April 2004 and March 2009. The five-year time series contains over 1 million beach elevation measurements and documents detailed changes in beach morphology over a variety of spatial, temporal, and physical forcing scales. Results show that seasonal processes dominate at Ocean Beach, with the seasonal increase and decrease in wave height being the primary driver of shoreline change. Storm events, while capable of causing large short-term changes in the shoreline, did not singularly account for a large percentage of the overall observed change. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis shows that the first two modes account for approximately three-quarters of the variance in the data set and are represented by the seasonal onshore/offshore movement of sediment (60%) and the multi-year trend of shoreline rotation (14%). The longer-term trend of shoreline rotation appears to be related to larger-scale bathymetric change. An EOF-based decomposition technique is developed that is capable of estimating the shoreline position to within one standard deviation of the range of shoreline positions observed at most locations along the beach. The foundation of the model is the observed relationship between the temporal amplitudes of the first EOF mode and seasonally-averaged offshore wave height as well as the linear trend of shoreline rotation. This technique, while not truly predictive because of the requirement of real-time wave data, is useful because it can predict shoreline position to within reasonable confidence given the absence of field data once the model is developed at a particular site. 相似文献
7.
The formation time of alongshore morphological variability in surf zone sand bars has long been known to differ from one beach to the other and from one post-storm period to another. Here we investigate whether the type of sea state, i.e. distant swell waves or locally generated short period wind sea, affects the formation time of the emerging alongshore topographic variability.A numerical modeling approach is used to examine the emergence of alongshore variability under different shore-normal wave forcing. A research version of Delft3D, operating on the time-scale of wave groups, is applied to a schematised bathymetry with a single bar. The model is then used to investigate several wave scenarios, examining the impact of peak period, frequency spread and directional spread on the formation time of alongshore variability.Results show that an increase in wave period has a large effect, changing the formation time up to O (250%) in case the wave period is changed from a representative value for the Dutch coast (Tp ~ 5–6 s) to an Australian South East coast value (Tp ~ 10–12 s). In contrast, modifications in the directional and frequency spread of the wave field result only in a minor change in the formation time.Examination of hydrodynamics and potential sediment transport shows that the variations in formation time are primarily related to changes in the magnitude of the time-averaged flow conditions. Variations in the magnitude of very low frequency (f < 0.004 Hz) or infragravity (0.004 < f < 0.04 Hz) surf zone flow velocities do not affect the mean sediment transport capacity. Consequently the formation speed of patterns is primarily governed by positive feedback between mean flow and morphology, and low frequency flow fluctuations are of minor importance.These findings indicate that the development of alongshore topographic variability may be faster at swell dominated open coasts, primarily due to the occurrence of longer period swell. Also, at a given site, the arrival of a long wave period swell after a storm can accelerate the emergence of variability. 相似文献
8.
P.S. Pereira L.J. Calliari R. Holman K.T. Holland R.M.C. Guedes C.K. Amorin P.G. Cavalcanti 《Marine Geology》2011,279(1-4):210-221
Besides the different scales within which coastal processes manifest their energy, the majority of the world's coastal regions exhibit forms of sediment heterogeneity that are physically significant. One example of a heterogeneous environment is Cassino beach, located at the southernmost part of Brazil, a fine-grain-sized sandy beach where fluid mud sporadically is transported to the nearshore and eventually onto the beach. At this site in 2005, as part of a field experiment, a video system was installed. Three years after the installation, a large mud transgression event took place in February 2008 and had 5 km of extension. In this context, the goal of the present work is to characterize the mud deposition pattern across the surf zone, describing the consequences of mud on nearshore dynamics using remote sensing techniques, beach profiles and suspended matter concentration. The surveyed beach profiles registered the deposition of fluid mud at the inner surf zone with concentrations up to 12 mg/l. The material was deposited close to the shoreline and had a cross-shore width of 100 m during the first deposition day occupying the entire water column. From surf zone time series of pixel intensity, it was possible to detect the attenuation of the surface wave spectra due to the presence of fluid mud. The combination of video techniques and field data allowed one to follow the formation of a double-layer system, where fluid mud overlays the sandy bottom. The video-based system at Cassino demonstrated that remote detection of fluid mud and quantification of its effect on the nearshore dynamics is feasible. The combination of beach profiles, measurements of suspended matter concentration and intensity timestacks allowed the analysis of the short-term evolution of the mud depositional processes. 相似文献
9.
The short-term wave characteristics are required for design and operation of industrial facilities within the coastal areas. Water surface displacement measured using waverider buoy moored at 13 m water depth in the eastern Arabian Sea off the west coast of India have been analyzed to study the short-term statistics of waves covering full one year period. The study indicates that the values of the observed maximum wave height as a function of duration are not consistent with the theoretical expected value. There is significant variation (1.29–2.19) in the ratio between highest 1% wave and significant wave height compared to the theoretical value of 1.67. The data recorded at 13 m water depth indicates that the significant wave height is ∼8% lower than that predicted by the conventional Rayleigh distribution. The theoretical bivariate log-normal distribution represents the joint distributions of wave heights and periods for the study area. 相似文献
10.
A coupled wave and hydrodynamic model was applied to the Kingston Basin of eastern Lake Ontario, a region with bathymetric variability due to channels and shoals, to assess the potential impacts on surface waves and wind-driven circulation of an offshore wind farm. The model was used to simulate a series of storm events with time-varying wind forcing and validated against wave, current and water level observations. The wind farm was simulated by adding semi-permeable structures in the surface wave model to represent the turbine monopiles, and by adding an energy loss term to the fluid momentum equations in the hydrodynamic model to represent the added drag of the monopiles on the flow. The results suggest that the wind farm would have a small influence on waves and circulation throughout the wind farm area, with spatial variability due to focussing of wave energy and re-direction of the flow. Overall, the results indicate that the wave height in coastal areas will be minimally affected with changes in significant wave height predicted to be < 3%. Larger changes to the strength of circulation occur inside the wind farm region with localized changes in current magnitude of up to 8 cm s− 1. The results of this study may help to understand the impacts of future offshore wind farms and other offshore structures in the Great Lakes. 相似文献
11.
Simulating swash zone morphodynamics remains one of the major weaknesses of beach evolution models. One of the reasons is the limited availability of data on morphological changes at the temporal scales of individual swash events. This paper sets out to present a new hybrid system, consisting of 2D/3D laser scanners and several video cameras, which was designed to monitor swash zone topographic change on a wave-by-wave basis. A methodology is proposed consisting of sensor calibration and several data processing steps, allowing a fusion of different sensors. Such an approach can improve the performance of several field/laboratory, optical technique applications for nearshore hydro- and morpho-dynamic measurements. Digital Elevation Models from a 3D scanner were used in the extrinsic camera calibration procedure and reduced the geo-rectification errors from 0.035 m < RMSE < 0.071 m to 0.008 m < RMSE < 0.013 m. The 2D scanner provided instantaneous measurements of the water and dry beach surface elevation along a 10 m cross-shore section, and comparison with ultrasonic sensor measurements resulted in RMS errors within the 1.7 cm < RMSE < 3.2 cm range. The combination of 2D scanner and video data (i) reduced geo-rectification errors by more than one order of magnitude; and (ii) made 2D laser point cloud processing easier and more robust. The hybrid monitoring system recorded the morphological change of a replenished beach-face on a wave-by-wave basis, during large-scale, physical modeling experiments and the observations showed that individual swash events could result in elevation changes up to dz = ± 10 cm. The sediment transport direction and intensity of the monitored swash events was relatively balanced and sediment transport rates ranged between − 3.5 kg m− 1 s− 1 > Qt > 3.5 kg m− 1 s− 1. Extreme transport swash events became rarer as the morphology was reaching equilibrium. 相似文献
12.
In this paper, the evolution of focused waves using different paddle displacements (piston type) under laboratory conditions is presented. It is well known that in intermediate water depths, linear paddle displacements will generate spurious, free, sub and super harmonics. Thus, a second order correction to suppress these spurious free sub and super harmonics was used to generate the focused waves. The focused waves were generated in the laboratory using a linear superimposition principle, in which the wave paddle displacement is derived based on the sum of a number of sinusoidal components at discrete frequencies, whose phases are accordingly set to focus at a particular location. For this method of generation, the second order wave maker theory proposed by Schäffer [24] can be easily adopted and was used in the present study. Two different centre frequencies (fc = 0.68 Hz and 1.08 Hz) with three different bandwidth ratios (Δf/fc = 0.5, 0.75 and 1.0) were tested in a constant water depth, to consider both narrow and broadband spectra. These test cases correspond to wave focusing packets propagating in intermediate and deep water regions. Further, for each wave packet, two different amplitudes were considered in order to analyze non-breaking and breaking cases. Thus, by systematically generating the wave packets using the linear and second order paddle displacements, the analysis was carried out for the spectral and temporal evolution of selected long waves. The temporal evolution of the selected harmonics was analyzed using the Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT), to show the propagation of the spurious, free, long waves. Further, the variations in energy for the lower, higher and primary frequency ranges are reported for different wave paddle displacements. The analysis revealed that for the broadband spectrum the differences are more pronounced when using linear paddle displacements. We have also noticed a shift in focusing/breaking location and time (i.e. premature) due to the increase in crest height using linear displacements. The experiment data used in this paper has been provided as a supplementary, which can be used to validate the numerical models. 相似文献
13.
A fuzzy inference system (FIS) and a hybrid adaptive network-based fuzzy inference system (ANFIS), which combines a fuzzy inference system and a neural network, are used to predict and model longshore sediment transport (LST). The measurement data (field and experimental data) obtained from Kamphuis [1] and Smith et al. [2] were used to develop the model. The FIS and ANFIS models employ five inputs (breaking wave height, breaking wave angle, slope at the breaking point, peak wave period and median grain size) and one output (longshore sediment transport rate). The criteria used to measure the performances of the models include the bias, the root mean square error, the scatter index and the coefficients of determination and correlation. The results indicate that the ANFIS model is superior to the FIS model for predicting LST rates. To verify the ANFIS model, the model was applied to the Karaburun coastal region, which is located along the southwestern coast of the Black Sea. The LST rates obtained from the ANFIS model were compared with the field measurements, the CERC [3] formula, the Kamphuis [1] formula and the numerical model (LITPACK). The percentages of error between the measured rates and the calculated LST rates based on the ANFIS method, the CERC formula (Ksig = 0.39), the calibrated CERC formula (Ksig = 0.08), the Kamphuis [1] formula and the numerical model (LITPACK) are 6.5%, 413.9%, 6.9%, 15.3% and 18.1%, respectively. The comparison of the results suggests that the ANFIS model is superior to the FIS model for predicting LST rates and performs significantly better than the tested empirical formulas and the numerical model. 相似文献
14.
《Deep Sea Research Part II: Topical Studies in Oceanography》1999,46(8-9):1745-1768
Phytoplankton community structure is expected to shift to larger cells (e.g., diatoms) with monsoonal forcing in the Arabian Sea, but recent studies suggest that small primary producers remain active and important, even in areas strongly influenced by coastal upwelling. To better understand the role of smaller phytoplankton in such systems, we investigated growth and grazing rates of picophytoplankton populations and their contributions to phytoplankton community biomass and primary productivity during the 1995 Southwest Monsoon (August–September). Environmental conditions at six study stations varied broadly from open-ocean oligotrophic to coastal eutrophic, with mixed-layer nitrate and chlorophyll concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 11.5 μM NO3 and 0.16 to 1.5 μg Chl a. Picophytoplankton comprised up to 92% of phytoplankton carbon at the oceanic stations, 35% in the diatom-dominated coastal zone, and 26% in a declining Phaeocystis bloom. Concurrent in situ dilution and 14C-uptake experiments gave comparable ranges of community growth rates (0.53–1.05 d−1 and 0.44–1.17 d−1, to the 1% light level), but uncertainties in C:Chl a confounded agreement at individual stations. Microzooplankton grazing utilized 81% of community phytoplankton growth at the oligotrophic stations and 54% at high-nutrient coastal stations. Prochlorococcus (PRO) was present at two oligotrophic stations, where its maximum growth approached 1.4 d−1 (two doublings per day) and depth-integrated growth varied from 0.2 to 0.8 d−1. Synechococcus (SYN) growth ranged from 0.5 to 1.1 d−1 at offshore stations and 0.6 to 0.7 d−1 at coastal sites. Except for the most oligotrophic stations, growth rates of picoeukaryotic algae (PEUK) exceeded PRO and SYN, reaching 1.3 d−1 offshore and decreasing to 0.8 d−1 at the most coastal station. Microzooplankton grazing impact averaged 90, 70, and 86% of growth for PRO, SYN, and PEUK, respectively. Picoplankton as a group accounted for 64% of estimated gross carbon production for all stations, and 50% at high-nutrient, upwelling stations. Prokaryotes (PRO and SYN) contributed disproportionately to production relative to biomass at the most oligotrophic station, while PEUK were more important at the coastal stations. Even during intense monsoonal forcing in the Arabian Sea, picoeukaryotic algae appear to account for a large portion of primary production in the coastal upwelling regions, supporting an active community of protistan grazers and a high rate of carbon cycling in these areas. 相似文献
15.
Maria Cristina de Souza Rodolfo José Angulo Mario Luis Assine David Lopes de Castro 《Marine Geology》2012
Along the coast at Praia de Leste, southern Brazil (25° 41’ S latitude), a positive sedimentary budget and a lowering of the sea level following the postglacial maximum has given rise to a progradational strandplain barrier that is 3–5 km wide. Sand quarries that lie 3.5 km from the present-day coastline have provided material from exceptional outcrops of 75% of the sequence of Holocene barrier facies. Five facies associations have been identified, which correspond to the inner shelf, the lower, middle and upper shorefaces, and the foreshore. The architecture of the facies shows a regressive sequence that overlies an erosional surface and downlapping Pleistocene sediments. At Praia de Leste, the facies association has a thickness of 14 m and is deposited between 2 m above and 12 m below mean paleo sea level. The barrier corresponds to a coastal environment that is characterised by medium to low wave energy under the additional influence of episodic storm events. The sequence at the Praia de Leste barrier differs from the sequence of clastic shoreline facies found elsewhere in two main ways. The first difference is the high content of fine sediment and plant debris, released at around the same time as the formation of the barrier from large estuarine systems, and the second is the predominance on the middle and lower shorefaces of swaley cross-stratified sand facies with abundant plant debris. We also describe two further characteristics of the barrier at Praia de Leste. First, the swaley cross-stratified sand represents a component of onshore transport that resulted in the accumulation of sediment transported from the shelf. Second, the beach step has been well preserved, thereby allowing the continuous tracing of seaward-dipping, low-angle cross-stratification to a sigmoidal cross-stratified beach-step sandy facies. Finally, we have herein been able to improve the precision of the sequence of formation of the depth of the facies, by making reference to paleo sea level during the formation of the barrier, rather than to present-day mean sea level. 相似文献
16.
Coastal mangroves, dwelling at the interface between land and sea, provide an important contribution to reducing risk from coastal hazards by attenuating incident waves and by trapping and stabilizing sediments. This paper focusses on relations between vegetation densities, wave attenuation rates, sediment characteristics and sedimentation rates in mangroves. These processes were studied along two cross-shore transects through mangroves fringing estuaries in the southern Andaman region of Thailand. Volumetric vegetation densities in these mangroves were ranging up to 32‰, depending on the water depth. Generalized total wave attenuation rates increased from 0.002 m− 1 in the sparsely vegetated forest fringes with Avicennia and Sonneratia species, up to 0.012 m− 1 in the dense Rhizophora vegetation in the back of the forests. The total wave attenuation rates integrate effects of shoaling and energy losses due to various bio-physical interactions within the mangrove ecosystem. Wave attenuation in the mangroves is presumably dominated by energy losses due to vegetation drag, since wave attenuation due to bottom friction and viscous dissipation on the bare mudflats is significantly lower than those inside the mangrove vegetation.Additionally, wave attenuation in the mangroves was found to facilitate enhanced net sediment deposition and a gradual fining of the bed material. These findings corroborate the coastal defence function of mangroves by quantifying their contribution to wave attenuation and sediment trapping. The explicit linking of these properties to vegetation composition and structure facilitates modelling studies investigating the mechanisms determining the coastal defence capacities of mangroves. 相似文献
17.
Coral reefs are important ecosystems that not only provide shelter and breeding ground for many marine species, but can also control of carbon dioxide level in ocean and act as coastal protection mechanism. Reduction of coral reefs at Singapore coastal waters (SCW) region remains as an important study to identify the environmental impact from its busy industrial activities especially at the surrounding of Jurong Island in the south. This kind of study at SCW was often being related to issues such as turbidity, sedimentation, pollutant transport (from industry activities) effects in literatures, but seldom investigated from the thermal change aspect. In this paper, a computational model was constructed using the Delft3D hydrodynamic module to produce wave simulations on sea regions surrounding Singapore Island. The complicated semi-diurnal and diurnal tidal wave events experienced by SCW were simulated for 2 weeks duration and compared to the Admiralty measured data. To simulate the thermal mapping at the south Singapore coastal waters (SSCW) region, we first adapted a conversion of industrial to thermal discharge; then from the discharge affected area a thermal map was further computed to compare with the measured coral map. The outcomes show that the proposed novel thermal modelling approach has quite precisely simulated the coral map at SSCW, with the condition that the near-field thermal sources are considered (with the coverage area in the limit of 20 km × 20 km). 相似文献
18.
In this study we investigated the impacts of potential changes of land cover due to sea-level rise (SLR) on storm surge (i.e., the rise of water above normal sea level, namely mean-sea level and the astronomical tide, caused by hurricane winds and pressure) response inside bays on the lower Texas coast. We applied a hydrodynamic and wave model (ADCIRC + SWAN) forced by hurricane wind and pressure fields to quantify the importance of SLR-induced land cover changes, considering its impacts by changing bottom friction and the transfer of wind momentum to the water column, on the peak surge inside coastal bays. The SLR increments considered, 0.5 m to 2.0 m, significantly impacted the surge response inside the bays. The contribution of land cover changes due to SLR to the surge response, on average, ranged from a mean surge increase of 2% (SLR of 0.5 m) to 15% (SLR of 2.0 m), in addition to the SLR increments. The increase in surge response strongly depended on storm condition, with larger increases for more intense storms, and geographical location. Although land cover changes had little impact on the surge increase for SLR increments lower than 1.0 m, intense storms resulted in surge increase of up to 10% even for SLR below 1.0 m, but in most cases, the geometry changes were the major factor impacting the surge response due to SLR. We also found a strong relationship between changes in bottom friction and the surge response intensification; demonstrating the importance of considering land cover changes in coastal regions that are highly susceptible to SLR when planning for climate change. 相似文献
19.
Indian River Inlet is located at roughly the mid-point of the Atlantic coast of Delaware and connects the ocean to two Delaware inland bays. Jetties constructed in 1940 have maintained the inlet for navigation purposes but have also acted as a barrier to net northerly alongshore sediment transport causing downdrift erosion. A mobile, land-based bypassing system was initiated in 1990 in an effort to counteract this erosion. Beach profile data from 1985 (pre-bypassing) until 2008 are used to investigate the effect of the sand bypassing system on beaches adjacent to the inlet. The downdrift beach experienced horizontal shoreline erosion between 10 and 60 m during the pre-bypassing period but accreted 10–20 m during the bypassing period. The mean shoreline location on the updrift beach during bypassing is 10–20 m landward (erosion) of its position during the pre-bypassing period. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) amplitudes from analyses performed on mean-removed elevation surfaces during the periods of highest bypassed volume (average of 83% of design rate) showed that the influence of the bypassing system on the downdrift beach extends to about 1500 m of the inlet. An EOF analysis showed that different morphologic responses were evident following the initiation of bypass operations. Temporal variations of shoreline and beach morphology were correlated to the temporal variations in bypassing rates on the downdrift beach only. The downdrift beach response was greatest near the inlet for larger bypassing volumes. Correlation in these instances occurred with a roughly 1-year time lag suggesting that the beach quickly redistributes the bypassed sand. EOF amplitude and shoreline response are weakly correlated to bypassed volumes when the system bypassed smaller volumes (average of 56% of design rate) of sand suggesting that there is a minimum bypassing rate, regardless of yearly variability, below which the effect on the downdrift beach is obscured. 相似文献
20.
《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》1999,46(10):1733-1753
CTD and ADCP measurements together with a sequence of satellite images indicate pronounced current meandering and eddy activity in the western Black Sea during April 1993. The Rim Current is identified as a well-defined meandering jet stream confined over the steepest topographic slope and associated cyclonic–anticyclonic eddy pairs located on both its sides. It has a form of highly energetic and unstable flow system, which, as it propagates cyclonically along the periphery of the basin, is modified in character. It possesses a two-layer vertical structure with uniform upper layer speed in excess of 50 cm/s (maximum value ∼100 cm/s), followed by a relatively sharp change across the pycnocline (between 100 and 200 m) and the uniform sub-pycnocline currents of 20 cm/s (maximum value ∼40 cm/s) observed up to the depth of ∼350 dbar, being the approximate limit of ADCP measurements. The cross-stream velocity structure exhibits a narrow core region (∼30 km), flanked by a narrow zone of anticyclonic shear on its coastal side and a broader region of cyclonic shear on its offshore side. The northwestern shelf circulation is generally decoupled from the influence of the basinwide circulation and is characterized by much weaker currents, less than 10 cm/s. The southward coastal flow associated with the Danube and Dinepr Rivers is weak during the measurement period and is restricted to a very narrow coastal zone.The data suggest the presence of temperature-induced overturning prior to the measurements, and subsequent formation of the Cold Intermediate Water mass (CIW) within the Northwestern Shelf (NWS) and interior of the western basin. The newly formed shelf CIW is transported in part along the shelf by the coastal current system, and in part it flows downslope across the shelf and intrudes into the Rim Current convergence zone. A major part of the cold water mass, however, seems to be trapped within the northwestern shelf. The CIW mass, injected into the Rim Current zone from the shelf and the interior region, is then circulated around the basin. 相似文献