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1.
Response of Coastal Groundwater Table to Offshore Storms   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Large groundwater table fluctuations were observed in a coastal aquifer during an offshore storm. The storm induced significant changes of the mean shoreline elevation, characterized by a pulse-like oscillation. This pulse propagated in the aquifer, resulting in the water table fluctuations. A general analytical solution is derived to quantify this new mechanism of water table fluctuation. The solution is applied to field observations and is found to be able to predict reasonably well the observed storm-induced water table fluctuations. Based on the analytical solution, the damping characteristics and phase shift of the oscillation as it propagates inland are examined.  相似文献   

2.
Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyō, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions.  相似文献   

3.
To explore the nourishment effect and disaster reduction efficiency of a fully dissipative dry beach under the impact of storms, this paper uses the measured topography and hydrodynamic data to establish a onedimensional numerical model of the XBeach beach profile. By numerically modeling the change in the nourished profile for different dry beach widths under normal waves and storm conditions and the recovery process of the profile after the storm, the degree of response in dry beach nourishmen...  相似文献   

4.
Observations of fluid mud were made in the lower North Passage of the Yangtze Estuary in February 2000, on 10 -11 August 2000, on 30 - 31 August 2000 (after two strong typhoons), on 21 - 24 August 2000 (neap tide) and on 3 -6 September 2000 (mean tide) respectively. In situ data show that the fluid mud in this area consists of fine cohesive sediment (median size 7.23 μm). The formation and movement of fluid mud varied during the neap-spring and flood-ebb tidal cycle. Observations suggest that fluid mud phenomena in this area may be categorised in a three-fold manner as slack water, storm and saltwedge features. The thickness of the fluid mud layer of slack water during the neap tide ranged from 0.2 to 0.96 m, whereas during the mean tide, the thickness ranged from 0.17 to 0.73 m, and the thickness of the fluid mud layer was larger during slack water than at the flood peak. Shoals cover an area of 800 km^2 with a water depth smaller than 5 m. Erosion of these extensive intertidal mudflats due to storm action provides an abundant sediment source. This is particularly significant in this estuary when the tidal level is lower than 5 m. The lower North Passage is a typical zone of saltwater wedging, so the saltwedge fluid mud has the most extensive spatial range in the estuary.  相似文献   

5.
The current-splitting method (CSM) for the study of ultra-shallow water storm surges proposed by the second author of the present paper is extended in this study to solve time-dependent problems. In the previous method the zero-order horizontal currents in the 3-dimensional storm surge model are split into two components: the wind-driven one and the gradient one, while the component generated by in-  相似文献   

6.
The influences of tropical cyclone paths and shelf bathymetry on the inducement of extreme sea levels in a regional bay are investigated. A finite volume coastal ocean model(FVCOM) has been configured for the Gulf of Thailand-Sunda Shelf. A parametric wind model is used to drive the FVCOM. The contributions of the tropical cyclone characteristics are determined through a scenario-based study. Validation based on a historical extreme sea level event shows that the model can resolve the oscillation mechanism well. The intensification of severe storm surges in the region highly depends on four factors including phase propagation of the storm surge wave determined by the landfall position, funnel effect caused by locality of the coastline, and shelf bathymetry determined by the state of mean sea level and coastline crossing angle of the storm path. The coexistence of these factors can cause particular regions e.g. the Surat Thani Bay, inner Gulf of Thailand and Ca Mau Peninsular to experience a larger surge magnitude. These areas are found to be highly related to monsoon troughs that develop during the onset and early northeastern monsoon season(October–November).  相似文献   

7.
A numerical model of the coupling between astronomical tide and storm surge based on Mike 21 is applied to the coastal regions of Zhejiang Province.The model is used to simulate high tide levels combined with storm surge during 5 typhoons,including two super typhoons,that landed in the Province.In the model,the atmospheric forcing fields are calculated with parametric wind and pressure models.The computational results,with average computed errors of 13 cm for the high astronomical tide levels and 20 cm for the high storm-tide levels,show that the model yields good simulations.Typhoon No.5612,the most intense to land in China since 1949,is taken as the typical super typhoon for the design of 5 typhoon routes,each landing at a different location along the coast.The possible extreme storm-tide levels along the coast are calculated by the model under the conditions of the 5 designed typhoon routes when they coincide with the spring tide.Results are compared with the high storm-tide levels due to the increase of the central atmospheric pressure at the base of a typical super typhoon,the change of tidal type,and the behavior of a Saomai-type typhoon.The results have practical significance for forecasting and minimization of damage during super typhoons.  相似文献   

8.
In this paper, the discussion is made on the problem of the oceanic response caused by air-sea interaction under storm. First, the perturbation differential equations for the problem are given, and the interaction functions are supposed to be the solving conditions. Next, the nonlinear diffusion equations of the problem are solved by using the method of the given variable transforms and the specific variable power series. Finally, the response disturbances to the circular intense storm is calculated so as to discribe quantitatively the evolution processes of the oceanic response.  相似文献   

9.
A storm surge is an abnormal sharp rise or fall in the seawater level produced by the strong wind and low pressure field of an approaching storm system.A storm tide is a water level rise or fall caused by the combined effect of the storm surge and an astronomical tide.The storm surge depends on many factors,such as the tracks of typhoon movement,the intensity of typhoon,the topography of sea area,the amplitude of tidal wave,the period during which the storm surge couples with the tidal wave.When coupling with different parts of a tidal wave,the storm surges caused by a typhoon vary widely.The variation of the storm surges is studied.An once-in-a-century storm surge was caused by Typhoon 7203 at Huludao Port in the north of the Liaodong Bay from July 26th to 27th,1972.The maximum storm surge is about 1.90 m.The wind field and pressure field used in numerical simulations in the research were derived from the historical data of the Typhoon 7203 from July 23rd to 28th,1972.DHI Mike21 is used as the software tools.The whole Bohai Sea is defined as the computational domain.The numerical simulation models are forced with sea levels at water boundaries,that is the tide along the Bohai Straits from July 18th to 29th(2012).The tide wave and the storm tides caused by the wind field and pressure field mentioned above are calculated in the numerical simulations.The coupling processes of storm surges and tidal waves are simulated in the following way.The first simulation start date and time are 00:00 July 18th,2012; the second simulation start date and time are 03:00 July 18th,2012.There is a three-hour lag between the start date and time of the simulation and that of the former one,the last simulation start date and time are 00:00 July 25th,2012.All the simulations have a same duration of 5 days,which is same as the time length of typhoon data.With the first day and the second day simulation output,which is affected by the initial field,being ignored,only the 3rd to 5th day simulation results are used to study the rules of the storm surges in the north of the Liaodong Bay.In total,57 cases are calculated and analyzed,including the coupling effects between the storm surge and a tidal wave during different tidal durations and on different tidal levels.Based on the results of the 57 numerical examples,the following conclusions are obtained:For the same location,the maximum storm surges are determined by the primary vibration(the storm tide keeps rising quickly) duration and tidal duration.If the primary vibration duration is a part of the flood tidal duration,the maximum storm surge is lower(1.01,1.05 and 1.37 m at the Huludao Port,the Daling Estuary and the Liaohe Estuary respectively).If the primary vibration duration is a part of the ebb tidal duration,the maximum storm surge is higher(1.92,2.05 and 2.80 m at the Huludao Port,the Daling Estuary and the Liaohe Estuary respectively).In the mean time,the sea level restrains the growth of storm surges.The hour of the highest storm tide has a margin of error of plus or minus 80 min,comparing the high water hour of the astronomical tide,in the north of the Liaodong Bay.  相似文献   

10.
A nested numerical storm surge forecast model for the East China Sea is developed. Aone-way relaxing nest method is used to exchange the information between coarse grid and fine grid. In the inner boundary of the fine grid model a transition area is set up to relax the forecast variables. This ensures that the forecast variables of the coarse model may transit to those of fine grid gradually, which enhances the model stability. By using this model, a number of hindcasts and forecast are performed for six severe storm surges caused by tropical cyclones in the East China Sea. The results show good agreement with the observations.  相似文献   

11.
不同沉积物养护海滩对台风响应的差异性研究   总被引:2,自引:2,他引:0  
本文通过对厦门天泉湾人工卵石滩和会展人工沙滩在1614“莫兰蒂”超强台风影响前后的典型剖面监测,结合水文动力要素的观测和数值模拟,计算了台风影响过程的波浪场、总水位,分析了剖面形态和台风过程的剖面平均变化量。结果表明,强潮海岸人工卵石滩与人工沙滩对台风响应的特征明显不同,人工卵石滩横向上大部分卵石向岸输移堆积,滩面侵蚀,滩肩堆积形成更高的风暴滩肩,坡度明显变陡。而人工沙滩则表现为明显的沉积物离岸输运,上部滩面侵蚀,下部滩面淤积,滩面坡度明显变缓,受台风登陆后的强烈向岸风作用,滩肩顶有所夷平,滩肩高度变化很小。海滩滩肩在台风过程中是否侵蚀与台风登陆和影响过程的总水位(天文潮、风暴增水、波浪爬高)密切相关,两个人工海滩的风暴响应模式均为冲蚀;台风影响过程中,波浪能量相对强、滩面坡度相对陡的人工卵石滩比人工沙滩的剖面平均变化量小,对于台风的响应程度小,在强侵蚀高能海岸采用砾石等粗粒径沉积物进行海滩养护是减缓砂质海滩侵蚀的一种有效手段。  相似文献   

12.
Storms are one of the most important controls on the cycle of erosion and accretion on beaches. Current meters placed in shoreface locations of Saco Bay and Wells Embayment, ME, recorded bottom currents during the winter months of 2000 and 2001, while teams of volunteers profiled the topography of nearby beaches. Coupling offshore meteorological and beach profile data made it possible to determine the response of nine beaches in southern Maine to various oceanographic and meteorological conditions. The beaches selected for profiling ranged from pristine to completely developed and permitted further examination of the role of seawalls on the response of beaches to storms.

Current meters documented three unique types of storms: frontal passages, southwest storms, and northeast storms. In general, the current meter results indicate that frontal passages and southwest storms were responsible for bringing sediment towards the shore, while northeast storms resulted in a net movement of sediment away from the beach. During the 1999–2000 winter, there were a greater percentage of frontal passages and southwest storms, while during the 2000–2001 winter, there were more northeast storms. The sediment that was transported landward during the 1999–2000 winter was reworked into the berm along moderately and highly developed beaches during the next summer.

A northeast storm on March 5–6, 2001, resulted in currents in excess of 1 m s−1 and wave heights that reached six meters. The storm persisted over 10 high tides and caused coastal flooding and property damage. Topographic profiles made before and after the storm demonstrate that developed beaches experienced a loss of sediment volume during the storm, while sediment was redistributed along the profile on moderately developed and undeveloped beaches. Two months after the storm, the profiles along the developed beaches had not reached their pre-storm elevation. In comparison, the moderately developed and undeveloped beaches reached and exceeded their pre-storm elevation and began to show berm buildup characteristic of the summer months.  相似文献   


13.
海滩风暴响应的观测和研究有助于加深对海滩过程的认识。2017年10月16日台风“卡努”在广东徐闻县沿海登陆, 对雷州半岛南部海滩造成了显著影响。文章通过海滩剖面观测和沉积物采样, 探讨了该区域海滩对台风“卡努”的响应特征, 得出以下主要结论。1) 台风浪作用下, 海滩表层沉积物变粗, 分选性变差。海滩状态朝着更加消散的状态转化, 以缓冲和适应高强度波浪的能量。2) 受到岬角和湾口朝向、大小等因素影响, 各海滩及同一海滩的不同岸段剖面变化表现出差异性。台风作用后海滩可能形成水下沙坝, 或者在海滩上部形成滩肩等特征地形。因此, 研究海滩风暴响应时, 要注意到区域地质地貌的影响。3) 水下礁坪、巨型砂质岬角等因素影响了台风过程灯楼角海滩的变化。对这种海滩–珊瑚礁坪系统的风暴效应, 还需要进行进一步探讨和更详细的观测和研究。  相似文献   

14.
利用复经验正交函数(CEOF)分析方法对湛江南三岛2009年2月22日至2010年4月21日期间的实测海滩剖面数据进行了分析。结果表明该海滩的季节变化有3个主要模态:第1模态是海滩风暴剖面和涌浪剖面之间的相互转换,其贡献占总方差的71.18%。其原因是海区侵蚀性风暴大浪和建设性涌浪的交替变化。第2模态是平均高、低潮线之间的地形变化,其原因是由于潮汐变化导致入射波浪冲流活动范围变化,占总方差的14.28%。第3模态是侵蚀大浪过后的水下沙坝向岸迁移,并受潮汐影响在滩面上摆动,占总方差的6.80%。最后指出必须重视风暴对华南海滩演变季节性过程的影响。  相似文献   

15.
根据厦门岛东南岸沙滩剖面1999年2月-2002年11月4年的观测资料,分析了该剖面上平均高潮位、平均海平面、平均低潮位的位置变化,绘制了冲淤变化曲线,研究剖面的形态特征及季节和长周期变化趋势。结果表明,风暴潮影响后沙滩剖面呈风暴型剖面,而常浪季节均表现为滩肩型复式剖面。受滨外地形、岸线走向、季节性风浪和潮汐活动等因素影响,沙滩剖面的季节变化比较复杂,长周期变化及风暴潮后剖面的恢复过程各岸段有所不同:泥沙流上游的岸段供沙不足,呈侵蚀状态,剖面恢复较慢;下游则呈基本稳定或淤长状态,剖面恢复相对较快。暴风浪和季节性常风浪交替作用控制着本区沙滩剖面的长周期循环变化过程,该过程一般包括风暴侵蚀期、快速恢复期、稳定恢复期和基本稳定期4个阶段。  相似文献   

16.
风暴是造成海滩剧烈变化的重要因子。由于观测环境的恶劣,目前极少有风暴过程中海滩响应的现场高频观测工作。本研究在2018年台风“贝碧嘉”期间对徐闻青安湾海滩开展了历时6天半的高频观测,获得了全时水动力要素和164组逐时海滩滩面高程变化数据。通过分析表明:(1)青安湾海域风暴增水及波浪受控于海南岛?雷州半岛特有的地形地貌和台风“贝碧嘉”的多变路径,增水稳定在0.38~0.5 m之间,而波高先由0.78 m衰减至0.43 m,再增加至0.56 m;(2)海滩剖面地形变化总体表现为滩肩侵蚀,形成水下沙坝,滩肩响应过程分为快速向下侵蚀、缓慢侵蚀至最大值、振荡回淤恢复3个阶段,台风期间滩肩振荡恢复幅度可达最大侵蚀深度的1/4;(3)海滩的风暴响应过程主要由4个模态耦合而成:第一模态体现大潮滩肩侵蚀生成水下沙坝过程;第二模态体现风暴滩肩侵蚀,补偿大潮滩肩侵蚀位置和进一步促进沙坝形成过程;第三模态揭示了波浪二次破碎位置的上冲流和离岸底流使泥沙发生双向输移过程;第四模态表明台风大浪使得碎波带内泥沙大量悬浮,在沿岸流和离岸流作用下部分悬沙进入深水区,可能造成海滩泥沙的永久亏损。  相似文献   

17.
The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.  相似文献   

18.
山东半岛东部滨海沙滩对台风“米雷”的地貌响应   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
通过对台风“米雷”登陆前后山东半岛东部8个滨海沙滩地形地貌的现场调查以及一年后的重复调查对比分析了沙滩地貌形态的变化,并依据台风期间的风要素计算和评估了台风期间沙滩的沿岸输沙和横向输沙趋势,探讨了在热带风暴发生频次较低的地区沙滩的风暴响应模式和海岸恢复规律。研究结果表明,台风造成横向和纵向输沙量的增加和输沙方向的逆转是造成沙滩形态改变的主要因素,而在米雷登陆前的阶段横向和纵向输沙作用最为强烈。研究区内沙滩的风暴响应模式主要表现为侵蚀陡坎的形成和滩肩或滩面的侵蚀后退。与其他台风频发的区域不同,在研究区台风是一个偶然的强动力事件,因此台风特征对沙滩的风暴响应的作用更加明显。而沙滩剖面形态的作用,仅仅在耗散型沙滩上有所体现。此外,沙滩的走向是控制风暴作用强度的主要因素,并且与沙滩风后恢复密切相关。  相似文献   

19.
Large sections of the western Irish coast are characterised by a highly compartmentalised series of headland-embayment cells in which sand and gravel beaches are backed by large vegetated dune systems. Exposure to modally high-energy swell renders most of these beaches dissipative in character. A mesotidal range (c. 3.5–4.5 m) exists along much of the coast. Analysis of instrumental wind records from three locations permitted the identification of a variety of storm types and the construction of storm catalogues. Few individual storms were recorded at all three stations indicating a lack of regional consistency in storm record. Of the total storms recorded, only a small percentage are potentially damaging (onshore directed) and even fewer span a high tide and thus potentially induce a measurable morphological response at the coast.

Through a combination of historical records, meteorological records, field observations and wave modelling we attempt to assess the impact of storms. Quantifiable records of coastal morphology (maps, air photos and beach profiles) are few in number and do not generally record responses that may be definitely attributed to specific storms. Numerical wave simulations and observations at a variety of sites on the west Irish coast, however, provide insights into instantaneous and medium term (decadal) storm responses in such systems.

We argue that beaches and dunes that are attuned to modally high-energy regimes require extreme storms to cause significant morphological impact. The varying orientation of beaches, a spatially nonuniform storm catalogue and the need for a storm to occur at high water to produce measurable change, impart site-specific storm susceptibility to these embayments. Furthermore, we argue that long-period wave energy attenuation across dissipative shorefaces and beaches reduces coastal response to distant storms whereas short-period, locally generated wind waves are more likely to cause major dune and beach erosion as they arrive at the shoreline unrefracted.

This apparently variable response of beach and dune systems to storm forcing at a decadal scale over a coastline length of 200 km urges caution in generalising regarding regional-scale coastal responses to climatic change.  相似文献   


20.
台风"艾利"对福建沙质海滩影响过程研究   总被引:6,自引:0,他引:6  
蔡锋  雷刚  苏贤泽  彭俊 《海洋工程》2006,24(1):98-109
通过对福建沙质海滩地形地貌现场调查,对比分析0418号台风“艾利”登陆福建前后各沙滩剖面的蚀淤变化,探讨了福建沙滩对台风“艾利”响应规律。研究结果表明,2004年8月底台风“艾利”过境期间,福建沿海砂质海岸显出了较强烈的地貌响应。沙滩剖面地形变化,冲淤相间,以冲蚀为主;后滨沙丘蚀退、滩肩蚀低、岸线向陆迁移是地貌响应的主要特征;沙滩沉积物的总收支趋于亏损。不同海岸类型的沙滩剖面对台风“艾利”的响应特征不同。岬湾型沙滩剖面地貌响应以前滨滩面侵蚀为主要特征。夷直型的长乐江田下沙剖面,对“艾利”台风的主要地貌响应特征为后滨沙丘、高潮带侵蚀,岸线后退超过16m,出现高度近1 m的直立侵蚀陡坎。沙坝-泻湖型沙滩剖面冲淤变化的主要特征是中潮带形成次一级沙坝。各沙滩的地貌风暴效应有自北往南依次减弱的趋势。  相似文献   

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