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1.
Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands 总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10
Dano Roelvink Ad Reniers Ap van Dongeren Jaap van Thiel de Vries Robert McCall Jamie Lescinski 《Coastal Engineering》2009,56(11-12):1133-1152
A new nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and breaching, is validated with a series of analytical, laboratory and field test cases. Innovations include a non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading to account for wave-group generated surf and swash motions and an avalanching mechanism providing a smooth and robust solution for slumping of sand during dune erosion. The model performs well in different situations including dune erosion, overwash and breaching with specific emphasis on swash dynamics, avalanching and 2DH effects; these situations are all modelled using a standard set of parameter settings. The results show the importance of infragravity waves in extending the reach of the resolved processes to the dune front. The simple approach to account for slumping of the dune face by avalanching makes the model easily applicable in two dimensions and applying the same settings good results are obtained both for dune erosion and breaching. 相似文献
2.
Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.
The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp. 相似文献
3.
M.R.A. van Gent J.S.M. van Thiel de Vries E.M. Coeveld J.H. de Vroeg J. van de Graaff 《Coastal Engineering》2008,55(12):1041-1051
Large-scale physical model tests were performed to quantify the effects of the wave period on dune erosion. Attention was focussed on 2D cross-shore effects in a situation with sandy dunes and extreme water levels and wave conditions. Besides profile measurements, detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near near-shore area. It was concluded that a longer wave period leads to a larger dune erosion volume and to a larger landward retreat of the dune face. Tests with double-peaked wave spectra showed that the influence of the spectral shape on dune erosion was best represented by the Tm − 1,0 spectral mean wave period, better than the peak wave period, Tp. The effect of the wave period on dune erosion was implemented in a dune erosion prediction method that estimates erosion volumes during normative storm conditions for the Dutch coast. More details of the measurements and additional analyses of physical processes are described in an accompanying paper by Van Thiel de Vries et al. [Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., van Gent, M.R.A., Reniers, A.J.H.M. and Walstra, D.J.R., submitted for publication. Analysis of dune erosion processes in large scale flume experiments, In this volume of Coastal Engineering.]. 相似文献
4.
This paper presents a mathematical approach and numerical model that simulates beach and dune change in response to cross-shore processes of dune growth by wind and dune erosion by storms, and by gradients in longshore sand transport that will alter shoreline position. Sub-aerial transport processes are represented, whereas sub-aqueous transport is neglected. The system is tightly coupled morphologically, with the berm playing a central role. For example, the potential for sand to be transported to the dune by wind depends on berm width, and sand lost in erosion of the dune during storms can widen the berm. Morphologic equilibrium considerations are introduced to improve reliability of predictions and stability of the non-linear model. An analytical solution is given under simplification to illustrate properties of the model. Sensitivity tests with the numerical solution of the coupled equations demonstrate model performance, with one test exploring beach and dune response to potential increase in storm-wave height with global warming. Finally, the numerical model is applied to examine the consequences of groin shortening at Westhampton Beach, Long Island, New York, as an alternative for providing a sand supply to the down-drift beach. Results indicate that the sand will be released over several decades as the shoreline and dune move landward in adjustment to the new equilibrium condition with the shortened groins. 相似文献
5.
6.
J.S.M. van Thiel de Vries M.R.A. van Gent D.J.R. Walstra A.J.H.M. Reniers 《Coastal Engineering》2008,55(12):1028-1040
Large-scale physical model tests were conducted with different wave periods to examine the physical processes driving dune erosion. The model tests have been carried out in a flume (2DV) with a sandy dune exposed to extreme surge and wave conditions [Van Gent, M.R.A., Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., Coeveld, E.M., De Vroeg, J.H. and Van de Graaff, J., 2008. Large-scale dune erosion tests to study the effect of wave periods. Coastal Engineering. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.04.003.]. Detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near shore area. The data revealed that both short- and long waves are important to inner surf hydrodynamics. Depth averaged flows are directed offshore and increase towards the shore line. The corresponding mean sediment concentrations rise sharply towards the dune face (up to 50 g/l near the bed). The strong increase in the mean sediment concentration towards the dune face correlates well with the maximum wave surface slope which in turn is coupled to both the pressure gradient and the near-bed wave-breaking induced turbulence. Analysis shows that the pressure gradient is only partially coupled to the flow acceleration suggesting that the latter cannot always be used as a proxy for the first. Weak correlation is obtained with the near-bed flows related to the bed shear stress. Tests with a larger wave period resulted in a larger dune erosion volume. During these tests more wave energy (combined incident and infragravity waves) reached the dune face, but more importantly, this wave energy is dissipated by fewer waves resulting in more intense wave breakers and steeper wave fronts. It is therefore expected that the wave-breaking induced near-bed turbulence increases resulting in significantly higher (O(100%)) mean sediment concentrations. In addition the mean flow velocities are comparable, yielding a substantially larger offshore directed sediment transport capacity. This increase in offshore directed transport is only partially compensated by a concurrent increase in the wave related onshore transport capacity associated with intrawave processes, resulting in a net increase in the dune erosion rate. 相似文献
7.
R.T. McCall J.S.M. Van Thiel de Vries N.G. Plant A.R. Van Dongeren J.A. Roelvink D.M. Thompson A.J.H.M. Reniers 《Coastal Engineering》2010
A 2DH numerical, model which is capable of computing nearshore circulation and morphodynamics, including dune erosion, breaching and overwash, is used to simulate overwash caused by Hurricane Ivan (2004) on a barrier island. The model is forced using parametric wave and surge time series based on field data and large-scale numerical model results. The model predicted beach face and dune erosion reasonably well as well as the development of washover fans. Furthermore, the model demonstrated considerable quantitative skill (upwards of 66% of variance explained, maximum bias − 0.21 m) in hindcasting the post-storm shape and elevation of the subaerial barrier island when a sheet flow sediment transport limiter was applied. The prediction skill ranged between 0.66 and 0.77 in a series of sensitivity tests in which several hydraulic forcing parameters were varied. The sensitivity studies showed that the variations in the incident wave height and wave period affected the entire simulated island morphology while variations in the surge level gradient between the ocean and back barrier bay affected the amount of deposition on the back barrier and in the back barrier bay. The model sensitivity to the sheet flow sediment transport limiter, which served as a proxy for unknown factors controlling the resistance to erosion, was significantly greater than the sensitivity to the hydraulic forcing parameters. If no limiter was applied the simulated morphological response of the barrier island was an order of magnitude greater than the measured morphological response. 相似文献
8.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,44(1):37-63
This paper presents a set of results from a laboratory study on water wave propagation above submerged vegetation growing in the surf zone and the effect of submerged vegetation on dune erosion. The study has focused on the kelp Laminaria hyperborea. The reason is that this kelp is commercially harvested along the Norwegian coast and there is a need to obtain better knowledge on the possible consequences of this harvesting. Experiments were run with irregular waves over a sloping bottom, and a kelp field was simulated by 5000 artificial kelp plants in a 1:10 scale. The experiments primarily focused on the effect of kelp upon erosion of a sand dune, wave damping and water velocities. It was found that the water level is a very important factor to the degree of dune erosion, while the kelp has only a minor effect. The kelp does, however, cause significant wave damping and the degree of wave breaking is reduced. It was also found that the kelp modifies the water velocity profile. In a region above the kelp canopy layer, the time-averaged water velocity was shoreward, while the seaward undertow was confined to a region higher up in the water column. 相似文献
9.
To assess the flood protection capacity of dunes in The Netherlands, a semi-probabilistic dune-erosion prediction method is currently in use in which uncertainties in input parameters of an empirical dune erosion model were taken into account, with the exception of the uncertainty in the extreme surge distribution. Previous research has shown that the surge is by far the most influential parameter affecting erosion in the currently used erosion model, which is due both to the influence of the surge level itself and to the conditional dependence of the wave height and period on the surge level in the probabilistic model used for the assessment. Furthermore, the distribution of extreme surge levels has been shown to contain large statistical uncertainty. The inclusion of uncertainty in input variables into probabilistic models results in more extreme events (in this case erosion) for the same exceedance probability, largely due to the incorporation of higher values of the input variables. The goal of the research described in this paper was to determine the impact of the inclusion of uncertainty in the extreme surge distribution on the estimate of critical erosion (erosion associated with an exceedance frequency of 10− 5 per year). The uncertainty in the surge distributions was estimated and parameterized, and was incorporated into the probabilistic model. A reduction in uncertainty was subsequently imposed to estimate what value a reduction in uncertainty can offer, in terms of the impact on critical erosion. The probabilistic technique first-order reliability method (FORM) was applied to determine the relative contribution of the uncertainty in the surge distribution (as well as the remaining stochastic variables) to the critical erosion. The impact of the inclusion of uncertainty in the surge distribution on the critical retreat distance was found to be substantial with increases ranging from 34% to 93% of the original estimate at five locations along the Dutch coast. The reduced uncertainty showed a more subtle impact, with increases in critical retreat distance ranging from 10% to 26% of the original estimate. The relative importance analysis showed that the uncertainty in the surge distribution has a strong influence, with the relative importance ranging from 10% to 23% for an exceedance frequency of 10− 5 per year. 相似文献
10.
海岸开发工程回淤问题的动床波浪输沙试验研究 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
利用动床波浪输沙物理模型,试验研究了海岸开发工程引起的冲刷和回淤问题,直观预演了工程竣工后可能引起的;中淤现象。试验研究对象为南山滨海开发区旅游项目开发工程,试验结果给出了工程布置的各部分的淤积情况,表明淤积量较大,会引起工程区域及邻近海岸带的冲淤,并针对该工程提出建议。通过该试验的淤积情况表明：在实施海岸工程特别是在海岸带上做旅游项目开发时,要尽可能地不改变自然形成的原有海岸,否则可能会打破动态平衡,改变原有动力条件,破坏海洋环境,同时增加工程风险。强调了在海岸工程的设计和施工前要重视通过水工物模试验研究新平衡的演变过程。 相似文献
11.
Identifying storm impacts on an embayed, high-energy coastline: examples from western Ireland 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
J. A. G. Cooper D. W. T. Jackson F. Navas J. McKenna G. Malvarez 《Marine Geology》2004,210(1-4):261-280
Large sections of the western Irish coast are characterised by a highly compartmentalised series of headland-embayment cells in which sand and gravel beaches are backed by large vegetated dune systems. Exposure to modally high-energy swell renders most of these beaches dissipative in character. A mesotidal range (c. 3.5–4.5 m) exists along much of the coast. Analysis of instrumental wind records from three locations permitted the identification of a variety of storm types and the construction of storm catalogues. Few individual storms were recorded at all three stations indicating a lack of regional consistency in storm record. Of the total storms recorded, only a small percentage are potentially damaging (onshore directed) and even fewer span a high tide and thus potentially induce a measurable morphological response at the coast.
Through a combination of historical records, meteorological records, field observations and wave modelling we attempt to assess the impact of storms. Quantifiable records of coastal morphology (maps, air photos and beach profiles) are few in number and do not generally record responses that may be definitely attributed to specific storms. Numerical wave simulations and observations at a variety of sites on the west Irish coast, however, provide insights into instantaneous and medium term (decadal) storm responses in such systems.
We argue that beaches and dunes that are attuned to modally high-energy regimes require extreme storms to cause significant morphological impact. The varying orientation of beaches, a spatially nonuniform storm catalogue and the need for a storm to occur at high water to produce measurable change, impart site-specific storm susceptibility to these embayments. Furthermore, we argue that long-period wave energy attenuation across dissipative shorefaces and beaches reduces coastal response to distant storms whereas short-period, locally generated wind waves are more likely to cause major dune and beach erosion as they arrive at the shoreline unrefracted.
This apparently variable response of beach and dune systems to storm forcing at a decadal scale over a coastline length of 200 km urges caution in generalising regarding regional-scale coastal responses to climatic change. 相似文献
12.
13.
Egmont Key is a small, elongate island located on the huge ebb-tidal delta at the mouth of Tampa Bay, FL, USA. The multiple sets of intersecting beach/dune ridges that comprise the low-lying island indicate several periods of growth spaced between periods of erosion. The island has experienced considerable expansion and erosion during recorded history. The oldest of these ridges represents accumulation that took place about 1000 years before the present. Over the past century of well-documented change, there has been a general reduction in the area of the island as the result of extended periods of erosion punctuated by short accretion periods. The net change during this period has been a loss of approximately 40% of the area of the island. A 1-year, time-series monitoring of the Egmont shoreline during 1996–1997 showed sediment loss of 26 500 m3, while the annual average over the period of 1877–1996 was only 3360 m3. A single storm is responsible for most of this loss leading to the conclusion that the island is storm-dominated. Inferences from time intervals during which hurricanes took place support this conclusion. This island provides a major contrast in its coastal location, development and stratigraphy as compared to typical barrier islands. There is no underlying sediment deposited in shallow, paralic environments. The development of the island was lateral rather than having a vertical component through time, partly because of its relatively young age but also because of its position on a thick, ebb-tidal delta sand body. 相似文献
14.
This paper is focussed on the derivation of a set of general scaling laws valid for both beach and dune erosion volumes based on scaling law analysis, existing and new experimental results. This latter experiments concern beach profile changes in three different laboratory flumes using identical wave conditions based on Froude scaling. The experiments with planar sloping beaches have been done at three scales: large-scale Hannover wave flume experiment (beach slope of 1 to 15), medium scale Barcelona wave flume experiment (beach slope of 1 to 15) and small-scale Delft wave flume experiments (beach slopes of 1 to 10, 15 and 20) using an identical wave train of irregular waves (single topped spectrum). 相似文献
15.
山东省的海岸侵蚀灾害 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
论述了山东省海岸侵蚀灾害的基本特征，详细叙述了９２１６号强热带气旋暴潮的海岸侵蚀灾害情况。分析了海岸侵蚀灾害的基本特征，即侵蚀灾害的普遍性，侵蚀原因的多样性，人为因素的突出性，侵蚀灾害的连续性和突发性灾害的严重性，最后提出了海岸侵蚀灾害的防治与对策。 相似文献
16.
河北昌黎典型海岸沙丘的沉积构造及其发育模式 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
采用探地雷达探测了昌黎海岸沙丘区典型横向沙脊和新月形沙丘的沉积构造,据此初步揭示了研究区海岸沙丘的沉积序列特征和发育过程。结果表明,昌黎海岸带在2 000 a BP波浪作用下发育滨岸沙坝,沙坝主要以向海向陆缓倾斜的沉积构造为主,现今的风成沉积发育于滨海相沙坝之上。海岸带向海一侧经历了潮上带前丘到横向沙脊的过程,横向沙脊在东北风的作用下主要发育向陆倾斜的高角度交错层理,同时由于向岸合成风力的阶段性变化,这些层理的倾角略有差异,记录了海岸带风沙活动的周期性变化;内侧新月形沙丘由4组倾角不同的层理组成,被较大规模的二级界面分隔,复合新月形沙丘(链)经历了由盾状沙堆到典型新月形沙丘的加积发育并遭受风蚀的过程。 相似文献
17.
全球海岸生态系统正遭受气候变化及人类活动带来的威胁, 本文基于沙坝-潟湖系统海岸典型剖面形态, 通过设计实施动床波浪水槽试验, 定量研究了侵蚀浪条件下沉水植被对该系统海岸冲淤的影响。结果表明: 沉水植被明显削弱了沙坝前坡波浪破碎区前缘的波高增大幅度, 并使坝后波高衰减; 植被作用使波浪反射和透射系数减小、耗散系数增大; 侵蚀浪作用下, 沙坝坝顶冲刷较明显, 潟湖内呈淤积趋势, 海岸前丘受波浪冲刷呈陡坎形态。植被影响下沙坝和前丘区域最大侵蚀厚度均减小; 植被可减少沙坝净侵蚀量、潟湖内淤积量及离岸输沙量, 对海岸前丘有较好的保护作用。 相似文献
18.
Quantification of dune dynamics during a tidal cycle in an inlet channel of the Danish Wadden Sea 总被引：2，自引：3，他引：2
Verner B. Ernstsen Riko Noormets Christian Winter Dierk Hebbeln Alex Bartholomä Burg W. Flemming J. Bartholdy 《Geo-Marine Letters》2006,26(3):151-163
High-resolution swath bathymetry measurements at centimetre-scale precision conducted during a tidal cycle in the Grådyb tidal inlet channel in the Danish Wadden Sea reveal the short-term dynamics of a large, ebb-directed compound dune with superimposed small to medium dunes, all composed of medium sand. Dune dynamics were related to simultaneous measurements of flow using an acoustic Doppler current profiler. Spatially, dune crests displayed greater mobility than did dune troughs, due to higher flow velocities at the crests than in the troughs. Temporally, superimposed lower lee-side dunes migrated more during the flood than the ebb tide, due to higher near-bed trough flow velocities during the flood phase, resulting in varying exposure to flow. Net dune migration was flood-directed over the tidal cycle, despite annual net migration being ebb-directed. Hence, extrapolation of short-term migration rates is not possible in this case. The superimposed dunes reversed direction during each half tidal cycle whereas the compound dune only developed a flood cap during flood tide, i.e. the time required for complete reversal of the compound dune was much longer than that available in a half tidal cycle. Over the tidal cycle, the bed level was stable but significant erosion and accretion occurred during the tidal phases. During the ebb tide, bed material was brought into suspension with accelerating flow and settled with decelerating flow, resulting in an average erosion and accretion of the bed of ~7 cm in each case. During the flood tide, the bed of the compound dune was overall stable, although bed material was eroded from the exposed lower lee side, being partly transported to the crest in bedload and partly brought into suspension. In general, dune height fluctuated during the tidal cycle whereas dune length remained stable. The height of the compound dune responded to changes in water depth, which acts as a limiting factor to dune growth. By contrast, the height of the stoss-side dunes responded to flow velocity, i.e. the stoss-side dunes were water depth-independent. 相似文献
19.
基于1∶1的大型水槽试验结果,分析了波浪溢流过程中位于海堤内坡的高性能加筋草皮护面的侵蚀特征。试验观察表明试验期间有一定土壤的损失,但护坡无明显的破坏;土面高度测量表明,当土壤流失发展到一定深度后,如果水动力强度变化不大,侵蚀趋于逐渐停止,这种现象称为侵蚀上限;结合试验现象对侵蚀上限进行了初步解释,并讨论了侵蚀上限达到前的侵蚀速率特征;植株密度监测表明,试验期间的草茎密度基本不变,草叶密度在开始几次试验期间持续减小,而后达到一个稳定值,这对于海堤的可持续防护有重要意义。研究成果能够为波浪溢流期间海堤内坡防御的相关研究和工程措施提供参考依据。 相似文献
20.
The Northland region of New Zealand includes numerous high-value, macrophyte-dominated dune lakes. Recent water policy reforms offer limited guidance on managing for aquatic macrophytes. In addition, dune lake histories are poorly known as regular monitoring dates to 2005 AD. Here, ca. 4000 years of lake functional behaviour is reconstructed from sedimentary archives in two Northland dune lakes (Humuhumu and Rotokawau). Results demonstrated that macrophyte dominance is sensitive to catchment erosion and hydrological drawdown. Degradation of macrophyte communities occurred in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, earlier at Lake Humuhumu than Lake Rotokawau (post-1880 AD and post-1930 AD, respectively). In both lakes, increased erosional influx reduced macrophyte productivity, before later increases to wider trophic state (post-1970 AD). Lake-level decline is linked to increased nutrient loading at Lake Rotokawau but less so, Lake Humuhumu which is more strongly groundwater-fed. In Northland dune lakes, water-level reduction and erosional influx from land use have driven macrophyte degradation. 相似文献