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1.
A vertical 2-D numerical model is presented for simulating the interaction between water waves and a soft mud bed. Taking into aceotmt nonlinear theology, a semi-empirical theological model is applied to this water-mud model, reflecting the combined visco-elasto-plastic properties of soft mud under such oscillatory external forces as water waves. In order to increase the resolution of the flow in the neighborhood of both sides of the inter-surface, a logarithmic grid in the vertical direction is employed for numerical treatment. Model verifications are given through comparisons between the calculated and the measured mud mass transport velocities as well as wave height changes.  相似文献   

2.
A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, ac expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found.  相似文献   

3.
A simple conceptual formulation to compute seabed shear stress due to asymmetric and skewed waves is presented. This formulation generalizes the sinusoidal wave case and uses a variable friction factor to describe the physics of the boundary layer and to parameterize the effects of wave shape. Predictions of bed shear stresses agree with numerical computations using a standard boundary layer model with a k–ε turbulence closure. The bed shear stress formulation is combined with a Meyer-Peter and Müller-type formula to predict sheet flow bedload transport under asymmetric and skewed waves for a horizontal or sloping bed. The predictions agree with oscillatory water tunnel measurements from the literature.  相似文献   

4.
A horizontal two- dimensional numerical model is developed for estimation of sediment transport and sea bed change around a large circular cylinder under wave action. The wave model is based on an elliptic mild slope equation. The wave-induced current by the gradient of radiation stress is considered and a depth integrated shallow water equation is applied to the calculation of the current. The mass transport velocity and the bed shear stress due to streaming are considered, which are important factors affecting the sediment transport around a structure due to waves, especially in reflective areas. Wave-current interaction is taken into account in the model for computing the bed shear stress. The model is implemented by a finite element method. The results of this model are compared with those from other methods and agree well with experimental data.  相似文献   

5.
The three-dimensional numerical model with σ-coordinate transformation in the vertical direction is applied to the simulation of surface water waves and wave-induced laminar boundary layers. Unlike most of the previous investigations that solved the simplified one-dimensional boundary layer equation of motion and neglected the interaction between boundary layer and outside flow, the present model solves the full Navier–Stokes equations (NSE) in the entire domain from bottom to free surface. A non-uniform mesh system is used in the vertical direction to resolve the thin boundary layer. Linear wave, Stokes wave, cnoidal wave and solitary wave are considered. The numerical results are compared to analytical solutions and available experimental data. The numerical results agree favorably to all of the experimental data. It is found that the analytical solutions are accurate for both linear wave and Stokes wave but inadequate for cnoidal wave or solitary wave. The possible reason is that the existing analytical solutions for cnoidal and solitary waves adopt the first-order approximation for free stream velocity and thus overestimate the near bottom velocity. Besides velocity, the present model also provides accurate results for wave-induced bed shear stress.  相似文献   

6.
田动会  滕珊  冯秀丽  肖晓  宋湦  冯利  姜波 《海洋学报》2017,39(3):106-114
通过黄河三角洲埕北海域表层沉积物的粒度资料、实测潮流数据以及50 a一遇的波浪要素,分析了埕北海域表层沉积物的分布类型以及粒度参数特征,并计算了表层沉积物的临界起动应力、日平均单宽输沙通量以及波流共同作用下的单宽推移质输沙率。结果表明:研究区表层沉积物主要是粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂、粉砂和泥四种,分选中等偏差,近对称到正偏,中等尖锐到尖锐峰态;对大潮期间埕北海域潮流底应力和表层沉积物的临界起动应力的计算说明潮流在大部分区域具有起动和输运泥沙的作用;秋季潮流作用下的日平均单宽输沙通量均值为372.32 kg/（m·d）,方向为涨潮流向。利用贝克尔（Bijker）和经典的Van Rijn公式计算出的50 a一遇的波流共同作用下单宽推移质日平均净输沙率结果近似相等。  相似文献   

7.
Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the nearshore zone were modeled numerically taking into account turbulent unsteady flow. The flow field was computed using the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model, while the free surface was tracked using the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. This hydrodynamical model was supplemented with a cross-shore sediment transport formula to calculate profile changes and sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Based on the numerical solutions, flow characteristics and the effects of breaking waves on sediment transport were studied. The main characteristic of breaking waves, i.e. the instantaneous sediment transport rate, was investigated numerically, as was the spatial distribution of time-averaged sediment transport rates for different grain sizes. The analysis included an evaluation of different values of the wave friction factor and an empirical constant characterizing the uprush and backwash. It was found that the uprush induces a larger instantaneous transport rate than the backwash, indicating that the uprush is more important for sediment transport than the backwash. The results of the present model are in reasonable agreement with other numerical and physical models of nearshore hydrodynamics. The model was found to predict well cross-shore sediment transport and thus it provides a tool for predicting beach morphology change.  相似文献   

8.
Bingchen Liang  Huajun Li  Dongyong Lee   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(11-12):1569-1583
In the present work, a three-dimensional suspended sediment model (SED) is built. A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model (COHERENS) and a third-generation wave model (SWAN) are fully coupled through accounting for mutual influences between wave and current in them. SED is combined with the coupled model built up above. Damping function of suspended sediment on turbulence is introduced into COHERENS. Then a coupled hydrodynamic–sediment model COHERENS-SED incorporating mutual influences between wave and current is obtained. COHERENS-SED is adopted to simulate three-dimensional suspended sediment transport of Yellow River Delta with wave–current co-existing. The simulated tidal current velocities and suspended sediment concentration match well with field measurement data. The simulated significant wave height and wave period for a case with current's effects can give better agreement with measurement data than a case without current's effects. Numerical simulation results of COHERENS-SED are demonstrated to be reasonable though being compared with previous studies and field measurements [Wang, H., Yang, Z.S., Li, R., Zhang, J., Chang, R., 2001. Numerical modeling of the seabed morphology of the subaqueous Yellow River Delta. International Journal of Sediment Research 16(4), 486–498; Wang, H., 2002. 3-dimensional numerical simulation on the suspended sediment transport from the Huanghe to the Sea. Ph.D. Thesis, Ocean University of China, pp. 12–14 (in Chinese)].  相似文献   

9.
A numerical model based on a wind-wave energy transport formulation of Toba is developed to generate hindcast wave height data for the equatorial and the north Indian Ocean, which is otherwise a data-sparse region. The intercomparison between model-predicted wave heights for three years (1987–1989) obtained utilising analysed surface wind fields' data, and model grid averaged GEOSAT Altimeter significant wave height data showed moderate match, particularly for HS greater than 1 m.  相似文献   

10.
The Dardanelles Strait is a remarkable example of a long, narrow, shallow, and strongly stratified strait with bidirectional exchange that is governed by both baroclinic and barotropic forcing with a wide spectrum of variability. A three-dimensional free surface primitive equation model is applied to study seasonal hydrodynamics variability in this strait. The calculated vertical structure of temperature, salinity, and velocity fields agrees well with available survey data. Seasonal monthly values of the volume exchange at the Aegean and Marmara exits are estimated. It is found that the seasonal exchange dynamics is governed by the turbulent friction and entrainment at the Nara Passage area. The mean annual water transport in the upper layer is increased by 80% after the Nara Passage. About 25% of water entering in the Dardanelles bottom layer reaches the Marmara Sea in winter, and 50% reaches it in summer. The estimate of the Dardanelles hydrodynamics according to hydraulic and viscous–advective–diffusive regime classification shows significant deviation from the two-layer hydraulic asymptotic. However, according to three-layer hydraulic theory, the flow is found to be critical in the Nara Passage area.  相似文献   

11.
In this note we investigated the effects of a thin visco-elastic mud layer on wave propagation. Within the framework of linear water-wave theory, analytical solutions are obtained for damping rate, dispersion relation between wave frequency and wave number, and velocity components in the water column and mud layer. The wave attenuation rate reaches a maximum value when the mud layer thickness is about the same as the mud boundary layer thickness. Heavier mud has a weaker effect on the wave damping. However, the wave attenuation rate does not always decrease as the elastic shear modulus increases. In the range of small values for elastic shear modulus, the wave attenuation can be amplified quite significantly. The current solutions are compared with experimental data with different wave conditions and mud properties. In general, good agreements are observed.  相似文献   

12.
Existing models of the wave bottom boundary layer have focused on the vertical and temporal dynamics associated with monochromatic forcing. While these models have made significant advances, they do not address the more complicated dynamics of random wave forcing, commonly found in natural environments such as the surf zone. In the closed form solution presented here, the eddy viscosity is assumed to vary temporally with the bed shear velocity and linearly with depth, however, the solution technique is valid for any eddy viscosity which is separable in time and space. A transformation of the cross-shore velocity to a distorted spatial domain leads to time-independent boundary conditions, allowing for the derivation of an analytic expression for the temporal and vertical structure of the cross-shore velocity under an arbitrary wave field. The model is compared with two independent laboratory observations. Model calculations of the bed shear velocity are in good agreement with laboratory measurements made by Jonsson and Carlsen (1976, J. Hydraul. Res., 14, 45–60). A variety of monochromatic, skewed, and asymmetric wave forcing conditions, characteristic of those found in the surf zone, are used to evaluate the relative effects on the bed shear. Because the temporal variation of the eddy viscosity is assumed proportional to the bottom shear, a weakly nonlinear interaction is created, and a fraction of the input monochromatic wave energy is transferred to the odd harmonics. For a monochromatic input wave, the ratio of the third harmonic of velocity at the bed to the first is <10%. However, for a skewed and asymmetric input wave, this ratio can be as large as 30% and is shown to increase with increasing root-mean-square input wave acceleration. The work done by the fluid on the bed is shown to be a maximum under purely skewed waves and is directed onshore. Under purely asymmetric waves, the work done is significantly smaller and directed offshore.  相似文献   

13.
Tide-driven bed load transport is an important portion of the net annual sediment transport rate in many shoreface and shelf environments. However, bed load transport under waves cannot be measured in the field and bed load transport by currents without waves is barely measurable, even in spring tidal conditions. There is, consequently, a strong lack of field data and validated models. The present field site was on the shoreface and inner shelf at 2 to 8.5 km offshore the central Dutch coast (far outside the surfzone), where tidal currents flow parallel to the coast. Bed load transports were carefully measured with a calibrated sampler in spring tidal conditions without waves at a water depth of 13–18 m with fine and medium sands. The near-bed flow was measured over nearly a year and used for integration to annual transport rates. An empirical bed load model was derived, which predicts bed load transports that are a factor of > 5 smaller than predicted by existing models. However, they agree with laboratory data of sand and gravel transport in currents near incipient motion. The damped transport rates may have been caused by cohesion of sediment or turbulence damping due to mud or biological activity. The annual bed load transport rate was calculated using a probability density function (pdf) derived from the near-bed current and orbital velocity data which represented the current and wave climate well when compared to 30 years of data from a nearby wave station. The effect of wave stirring was included in the transport calculations. The net bed load transport rate is a few m2/year. This is much less than predicted in an earlier model study, which is partly due to different bed load models but also due to the difference in velocity pdf. The annual transport rate is very sensitive to the probability of the largest current velocities.  相似文献   

14.
A three-dimensional numerical model for large-eddy simulation (LES) of oceanic turbulent processes is described. The numerical formulation comprises a spectral discretization in the horizontal directions and a high-order compact finite-difference discretization in the vertical direction. Time-stepping is accomplished via a second-order accurate fractional-step scheme. LES subgrid-scale (SGS) closure is given by a traditional Smagorinsky eddy-viscosity parametrization for which the model coefficient is derived following similarity theory in the near-surface region. Alternatively, LES closure is given by the dynamic Smagorinsky parametrization for which the model coefficient is computed dynamically as a function of the flow. Validation studies are presented demonstrating the temporal and spatial accuracy of the formulation for laminar flows with analytical solutions. Further validation studies are described involving direct numerical simulation (DNS) and LES of turbulent channel flow and LES of decaying isotropic turbulence. Sample flow problems include surface Ekman layers and wind-driven shallow water flows both with and without Langmuir circulation (LC), generated by wave effects parameterized via the well-known Craik–Leibovich (C–L) vortex force. In the case of the surface Ekman layers, the inner layer (where viscous effects are important) is not resolved and instead is parameterized with the Smagorinsky models previously described. The validity of the dynamic Smagorinsky model (DSM) for parameterizing the surface inner layer is assessed and a modification to the surface stress boundary condition based on log-layer behavior is introduced improving the performance of the DSM. Furthermore, in Ekman layers with wave effects, the implicit LES grid filter leads to LC subgrid-scales requiring ad hoc modeling via an explicit spatial filtering of the C–L force in place of a suitable SGS parameterization.  相似文献   

15.
Jiankang Wu  Bo Chen 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(15):1899-1913
Based on Green–Naghdi equation this work studies unsteady ship waves in shallow water of varying depth. A moving ship is regarded as a moving pressure disturbance on free surface. The moving pressure is incorporated into the Green–Naghdi equation to formulate forcing of ship waves in shallow water. The frequency dispersion term of the Green–Naghdi equation accounts for the effects of finite water depth on ship waves. A wave equation model and the finite element method (WE/FEM) are adopted to solve the Green–Naghdi equation. The numerical examples of a Series 60 (CB=0.6) ship moving in shallow water are presented. Three-dimensional ship wave profiles and wave resistance are given when the ship moves in shallow water with a bed bump (or a trench). The numerical results indicate that the wave resistance increases first, then decreases, and finally returns to normal value as the ship passes a bed bump. A comparison between the numerical results predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations is made. It is found that the wave resistance predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation is larger than that predicted by the shallow water equations in subcritical flow , and the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations predict almost the same wave resistance when , the frequency dispersion can be neglected in supercritical flows.  相似文献   

16.
Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t...  相似文献   

17.
X.T. Zhang  B.C. Khoo  J. Lou 《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(17-18):2310-2331
The problem of wave propagation in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank is studied using desingularized boundary integral equation method coupled with mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation. The present method is employed to solve the potential flow boundary value problem at each time step. The fourth-order predictor–corrector Adams–Bashforth–Moulton scheme is used for the time-stepping integration of the free surface boundary conditions. A damping layer near the end-wall of wave tank is added to absorb the outgoing waves with as little wave reflection back into the wave tank as possible. The saw-tooth instability is overcome via a five-point Chebyshev smoothing scheme. The model is applied to several wave propagations including solitary, irregular and random incident waves.  相似文献   

18.
In this paper, a numerical wave model based on the incompressible Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) and k–ε equations is used to estimate the impact of a solitary wave on an idealized beachfront house located at different elevations on a plane beach. The locations of the free surface are reconstructed by volume of fluid (VOF) method. The model is satisfactorily tested against the experimental data of wave runup, and the analytical solution of wave forces on vertical walls. The time histories of wave profiles, forces, and overturning moments on the idealized house are demonstrated and analyzed. The variations of wave forces and overturning moments with the elevation of the idealized beachfront house are also investigated.  相似文献   

19.
An accurate numerical prediction of the oceanic upper layer velocity is a demanding requirement for many applications at sea and is a function of several near-surface processes that need to be incorporated in a numerical model. Among them, we assess the effects of vertical resolution, different vertical mixing parameterization (the so-called Generic Length Scale –GLS– set of k–ε, k–ω, gen, and the Mellor–Yamada), and surface roughness values on turbulent kinetic energy (k) injection from breaking waves.First, we modified the GLS turbulence closure formulation in the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) to incorporate the surface flux of turbulent kinetic energy due to wave breaking. Then, we applied the model to idealized test cases, exploring the sensitivity to the above mentioned factors. Last, the model was applied to a realistic situation in the Adriatic Sea driven by numerical meteorological forcings and river discharges. In this case, numerical drifters were released during an intense episode of Bora winds that occurred in mid-February 2003, and their trajectories compared to the displacement of satellite-tracked drifters deployed during the ADRIA02-03 sea-truth campaign.Results indicted that the inclusion of the wave breaking process helps improve the accuracy of the numerical simulations, subject to an increase in the typical value of the surface roughness z0. Specifically, the best performance was obtained using αCH = 56,000 in the Charnok formula, the wave breaking parameterization activated, k–ε as the turbulence closure model. With these options, the relative error with respect to the average distance of the drifter was about 25% (5.5 km/day). The most sensitive factors in the model were found to be the value of αCH enhanced with respect to a standard value, followed by the adoption of wave breaking parameterization and the particular turbulence closure model selected.  相似文献   

20.
During the 1994 Coastal Benthic Boundary Layer Project research cruise in Eckernförde Bay, multichannel digital seismic and electrical resistivity data were collected using surface- and bottom-towed arrays. Profiling with a bottom-towed sled yielded shear wave velocity and electrical resistivity data indicative of the structural strength of the sediment and of the properties of the pore space. Shear wave velocities for the gassy mud were, as expected, extremely low, ranging from < 10 m s–1 at the surface to around 16 m s–1 at 2 m. Variations in electrical properties were correlatable with lithological change. It is anticipated that analysis of reflection responses will provide significant additional geotechnical ground-truthing.  相似文献   

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