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1.
利用准三维的ｆＫｄＶ方程和四区间划分法,理论给出了任意截面的直渠道中先锋孤立子生成的理论平均波阻和区间平均能量的时间变化率。基于ｆＫｄＶ方程系数的正则性,文中结果是Ｘｕ等人结果的一个推广。对具有相同截面面积的正方形和等腰三角形截面的渠道及在不同强迫源和强迫源速度条件下,对理论平均波阻和平均生成能的时间变化率进行了数值比较和理论预报。比较指出,理论和数值结果吻合得很好。 相似文献
2.
利用准三维的ｆＫｄＶ方程及四区间划分法,理论上求得了先锋孤立子生成诸速度—先锋孤立子的运动速度、压水区中流的速度及尾波列第一个跨零点的速度。所述理论是Ｘｕ等人的先锋孤立子生成理论的一个推广。作为应用的例子,运用作者得到的理论结果,对具有相同截面面积的等腰三角形和正方形截面的直渠中先锋孤立子生成的诸速度进行了理论预报和数值比较。比较指出,理论和数值结果吻合得很好。 相似文献
3.
Noriyuki Iwata 《Journal of Oceanography》1974,30(5):222-231
With the averaged variational principles and the energy-momentum tensor, conservation laws for wave action, mass, momentum and energy for slowly varying water waves are derived systematically. For Stokes waves this enables us to derive energy and momentum conservation laws developed by the concept of radiation stress from general energymomentum tensor, which is as yet not clearly understood. Moreover the change of the wave amplitude of solitary wave over an uneven bottom is obtained from energy conservation equation. 相似文献
4.
Ｏｎｈｙｄｒａｕｌｉｃｆａｌｌｓｏｆｔｗｏ－ｌａｙｅｒｆｌｏｗ￥ＸｕＺｈａｏｔｉｎｇ;ＬｏｕＳｈｕｎｌｉ;ＴｉａｎＪｉｗｅｉａｎｄＳａｍｕｅｌＳｈａｎｐｎＳｈｅｎ（ＩｎｓｔｉｔｕｔｅｏｆＰｈｙｓｉｃａｌＤｅｅａｎｏｐａｐｈｙａｎｄＰｈｙｓｉｃａｌｏｃ... 相似文献
5.
Mathematical Models for Combined Refraction-Diffraction of Waves on Non-Uniform Current and Depth 总被引：12，自引：2，他引：12
Hong Guangwen
Professor Research Institute of Coastal Ocean Engineering Hohai University Xikang Road Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1996,(4)
Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given. 相似文献
6.
Ｏｎｈｙｄｒａｕｌｉｃｆａｌｌｓｏｆｓｉｎｇｌｅ－ｌａｙｅｒｆｌｏｗ￥ＸｕＺｈａｏｔｉｎｇ；ＴｉａｎＪｉｗｅｉ；ＬｏｕＳｈｕｎｌｉａｎｄＳａｍｕｅｌＳｈａｎｐｎＳｈｅｎ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＭａｒｃｈ２１，１９９５；ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＪｕｌｙ１０，１９９５... 相似文献
7.
Wave Numerical Model for Shallow Water 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation is briefly des-cribed.Several currently used wave numerical models for shallow water based on different wave theoriesare discussed.Wave energy conservation models for the simulation of shallow water waves are introduced,with emphasis placed on the SWAN model,which takes use of the most advanced wave research achieve-ments and has been applied to several theoretical and field conditions.The characteristics and applicabilityof the model,the finite difference numerical scheme of the action balance equation and its source termscomputing methods are described in detail.The model has been verified with the propagation refractionnumerical experiments for waves propagating in following and opposing currents;finally.the model is ap-plied to the Haian Gulf area to simulate the wave height and wave period field there,and the results arecompared with observed data. 相似文献
8.
1 .IntroductionWaves,oneofthemostimportantdynamicfactorsincoastalengineering ,havesignificanteffectsonthesafetyofconstructionandthecostofcoastalstructures.Thevariationofwave inducednearshorecurrentsandlongcyclicoscillationofwatersurfaceresultsinbankerosion ,sedimenttransportinestu aries ,siltationofharborsandchannels ,protectivestructureaccidents ,shipmooringfailuresanddiffu sionofpollutants ,andthushavedrawnscientificresearchers’attention .Alargenumberofresearchresultsonwavesandwave inducedc… 相似文献
9.
The present study develops a numerical model of the two-dimensional fully nonlinear shallow water equations （NSWE） for the wave run-up on a beach. The finite volume method （FVM） is used to solve the equations, and a second-order explicit scheme is developed to improve the computation efficiency. The numerical fluxes are obtained by the two dimensional Roe＇ s flux function to overcome the errors caused by the use of one dimensional fluxes in dimension splitting methods. The high-resolution Godunov-type TVD upwind scheme is employed and a second-order accuracy is achieved based on monotonic upstream schemes for conservation laws （MUSCL） variable extrapolation; a nonlinear limiter is applied to prevent unwanted spurious oscillation. A simple but efficient technique is adopted to deal with the moving shoreline boundary. The verification of the solution technique is carried out by comparing the model output with documented results and it shows that the solution technique is robust. 相似文献
10.
Natural resources of all kinds have been overexploited by user groups who cannot or will not develop rules to constrain their own exploitive efforts. One notable exception is the Maine lobster industry, where an effective set of conservation laws has been developed due, in great part, to the strong support of the industry. In the early decades of the 20th century, however, the lobster industry was marked by widespread violations of the existing conservation laws and opposition to developing more. This article explores the way that the pirate ethic gave way to the conservation ethic in the 1930s. Our explorations in evolutionary game theory suggest that this change was produced by three factors: costs and benefits of defection from the conservation ethic; numbers of people accepting the conservation ethic quality rule; and events that shocked the system from one state to another. We argue that the shock to the system in the late 1920s and 1930s was caused by massive stock failure which changed the attitudes of many fishermen about the need for conservation. People began to report violations of the law, which made law enforcement more effective and quickly led to a cascade of fishermen abandoning the pirate ethic. In the late 1930s, increasing catches, in combination with a number of other social, technical, and economic factors continued the upward spiral. 相似文献
11.
Noriyuki Iwata 《Journal of Oceanography》1976,32(1):1-10
Mass, momentum and energy conservation laws, including the radiation stress, are used to derive an equation of the eigenvalues of rip current spacing.A coastal region with linear bottom slope is divided into two parts: Offshore region and surfzone separated by the breaker line. Wave set-up, wave energy and mean current are assumed to be composed of basic state, which is a function of the distance from the coast to offshore only, and of superposed two-dimensional perturbations.In the case of normal incidence of waves, basic steady current system vanishes and perturbations are found to be of cellular shape. According to the boundary conditions at the coast, stream function of perturbed motion in the surfzone can be represented by the confluent hypergeometric function, while in the offshore zone it is approximated by the modified Bessel function.Interpolation of the stream functions in the surf and offshore regions enables us to obtain a characteristic relation which gives the eigenvalues of nondimensional alongshore spacing of rip current system as a function of a parameter determined by the bottom friction coefficient, width of the surfzone and breaker height. 相似文献
12.
用ｆＫｄＶ模式方程对单层二维表面波进行直接的数值研究。计算得出，在共振区域先锋孤立子的生成与Ｔ、Ｙ．Ｗｕ（吴耀祖）及Ｓ．Ｊ．Ｌｅｅ等人的结果相同。在共振点与超临界转向点之间，对每一个Ｆｒ数存在初始不稳定的单峰孤立子，其振幅随时间增加。当Ｆｒ数接近共振区时，初始孤立子分裂成先峰孤立子，即先峰孤立子生成是占优的。当Ｆｒ接近超临界转向点时，这类初始不稳定孤立子最终破碎。当Ｆｒ超过超临界转向点时，存在一类稳定的超临界孤立子，其振幅不随时间变化，但是它得自时间相关方程。这类孤立子位于驱动力上方，它的振幅随Ｆｒ的增加而减少．由于它不同于自由ＫｄＶ孤立子，因此本文称之为超临界驻定孤立子。 相似文献
13.
Within the framework of the reduced-gravity model of the ocean taking into account the effect of friction in the Rayleigh form, we study the two-dimensional problem of nonlinear motions of a subsurface front of finite width. We consider the conservation laws and the character of motion of the center-of-mass of the cross section of the front and their variations caused by the losses of energy. For fields with special structure, the problem is reduced to the solution of a system of nonlinear ordinary differential equations. It is shown that the initially geostrophic frontal current decays with time according to a power law. The deviations of the initial state of the front from the state of geostrophic balance result in the generation of superinertial oscillations of the hydrodynamic fields. 相似文献
14.
海浪组成波中的四波共振时满足谱作用量、谱能量及动量守恒，在变分同化所建立的波谱共轭方程中，对应于非线性波波相互作用源函数Boltzman积分形式，本文建立了其共轭源函数满足的守恒关系；实际海浪计算时广泛采用Hasselmann et al．(1985)的参数化方法，本文给出其综合作用表示式，证明也满足谱作用量、谱能量及动量守恒，并进一步导出了其共轭源函数中存在的守恒量。所有的共轭源函数守恒量只是对共轭算子而言的，对于共轭波谱则不存在相应的守恒关系。 相似文献
15.
在海洋流场数值计算中，当流场中建筑物尺度相对平面网格步长太小时，计算中难以引进其作用，在所得计算结果中难以反映其影响。本文依据流量连续、能量守恒规律，通过水力学物模实验，求得建筑物存在情况下的谢才系数Ｃ，解决了计算中的难题。 相似文献
16.
WANG Lixia SUN Yinglan ZHENG Lianyuan Associate Professor Insititute of Environmental Oceanography Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao China.Professor Insititute of Environmental Oceanography Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao China. Lecturer Insititute of Environmental Oceanography Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao China. 《中国海洋工程》1998,(3)
A three-dimensional,first order turbulence closure,thermal diffusion model is described inthis paper.The governing equations consist of an equation of continuity,three components of momentum,conservation equations for salt,temperature and subgridscale energy,and an equation of state.In the mod-el,according to the hypothesis of Kolmogorov and Prandtl,the viscosity coefficient of turbulent flow ofhomogeneous fluid is related to the local turbulent energy,and the horizontal and vertical exchangecoefficients of mass,heat and momentum are computed with the introduction of subgridscale turbulenceenergy.The governing equations are solved by finite difference techniques.This model is applied to theJiaozhou bay to predict thermal pollution by the Huangdao power plant.An instantaneous tidal currentfield is computed,then the distribution of temperature increment is predicted,and finally the effect of windstress on thermal discharge is discussed. 相似文献
17.
18.
Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This is the first of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In this first paper, part I, the model is presented and its basic features are studied for the case of regular waves. The model is based on two-dimensional equations of the Boussinesq type and it features improved linear dispersion characteristics, possibility of wave breaking, and a moving boundary at the shoreline. The moving shoreline is treated numerically by replacing the solid beach by a permeable beach characterized by an extremely small porosity. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is based on the surface roller concept for spilling breakers using a geometrical determination of the instantaneous roller thickness at each point and modelling the effect of wave breaking by an additional convective momentum term. This is a function of the local wave celerity, which is determined interactively. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches and over submerged bars. Model results comprise time series of surface elevations and the spatial variation of phase-averaged quantities such as the wave height, the crest and trough elevations, the mean water level, and the depth-averaged undertow. Comparisons with physical experiments are presented. The phaseaveraged balance of the individual terms in the momentum and energy equation is determined by time-integration and quantities such as the cross-sectional roller area, the radiation stress, the energy flux and the energy dissipation are studied and discussed with reference to conventional phase-averaged wave models. The companion papers present cross-shore motions of breaking irregular waves, swash oscillations and surf beats (part II) and nearshore circulations induced by breaking of unidirectional and multidirectional waves (part III). 相似文献
19.