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1.
This paper presents a new submarine landslide model based on the non-hydrostatic wave model NHWAVE of Ma et al. (2012). The landslide is modeled as a water–sediment mixture. The dense plume is driven by baroclinic pressure forcing introduced by spatial density variations. The model is validated using laboratory measurements of turbidity currents and of water wave generation by a granular landslide. The model is then utilized to study the dependence of landslide motion and associated tsunami wave generation on parameters including sediment settling velocity, initial depth of the landslide and slide density. Model results show that the slide motion and water waves which it generates are both sensitive to these parameters. The relative tsunamigenic response to rigid and deformable landslides of equal initial geometry and density is also examined. It is found that the wave energy is mostly concentrated on a narrow band of the dominant slide direction for the waves generated by rigid landslides, while directional spreading is more significant for waves generated by deformable landslides. The deformable landslide has larger speed and acceleration at the early stage of landslide, resulting in larger surface waves. The numerical results indicate that the model is capable of reasonably simulating tsunami wave generation by submarine landslides. 相似文献
2.
海啸波传播的线性和非线性特征及近海陆架效应影响的数值研究 总被引：3，自引：2，他引：1
浅水方程被广泛应用于海啸预警报业务及研究,而针对线性浅水方程与非线性浅水方程在不同海区水深地形条件下的适用范围、计算效率问题是海啸研究人员急需了解的。本文应用基于浅水方程的海啸数值预报模型就海啸波在南海、东海传播的线性、非线性特征以及陆架对其传播之影响进行了数值分析研究。海啸波在深水的传播表征为强线性特征,此时线性系统对海啸波幅的模拟计算具有较高的精度和效率,而弱的非线性特征及弱的色散特征对海啸波幅的预报影响甚微,可以忽略不计。海啸波传播至浅水大陆架后受海底坡度变化、海底粗糙度等因素影响,波动的非线性效应迅速传播、积累,与线性浅水方程计算的海啸波相比表现出较大差异,主要表现为:在南海区,水深小于100m时,海啸波首波以后的系列波动非线性特征比较明显,两者波幅差别较大,但首波波幅的区别不大,因此对于该区域在不考虑海啸爬高的情况下,应用线性系统计算得到的海啸波幅也可满足海啸预警报的要求;在东海区由于陆架影响,海啸波非线性特征明显增强,水深小于100m区域,首波及其后系列波波幅均差异较大,故在该区域必须考虑海啸波非线性作用。本文就底摩擦项对海啸波首波波幅的影响进行了数值对比分析,结果表明:底摩擦作用对海啸波首波波幅影响仅作用于小于100m水深。最后,该文通过敏感性试验,初步分析了陆架宽度及陆架边缘深度对海啸波波幅的影响,得出海啸波经陆架传播共振、变形后,海啸波幅的放大或减小与陆架的宽度及陆架边缘水深有关。 相似文献
3.
Gil Y. Kim Hong J. Yoon Jin W. Kim Dae C. Kim Boo K. Khim Seok Y. Kim 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2007,25(1):37-51
This study was undertaken to investigate the implication of geoacoustic behaviors in the shallow marine sediments associated with the changes in geotechnical index properties. Two piston cores (270 cm and 400 cm in core length) used in this study were recovered from stations 1 and 2, the western continental margin, the East Sea. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was employed to illustrate the effects of microstructure on shear properties. The direct SEM observation of sediment fabrics is inevitable to understand the correlation of the changes in geoacoustic properties to the sediment structure. The consolidation of sediments by overburden stress resulting in the clay fabric alteration appears to play an important role in changing shear properties. Water contents and porosity of sediments gradually decreases with increasing depth, whereas wet bulk density shows a reverse trend. It is interesting to note that shear wave velocities increase rapidly from 8 to 20 m/s while compressional wave velocities significantly fluctuate, ranging from 1450 to 1550 m/s with depth. The fabric changes in sediment with increasing depth for example, uniform grain size and well oriented clay fabrics may cause the shear strength increase from 1 to 12 kPa. Shear wave velocity is, therefore, shown to be very sensitive to the changes in undrained strength for unconsolidated marine sediments. This correlation allows an in-situ estimation of shear stress in the subsurface from shear wave velocity data. 相似文献
4.
Thus far various numerical models have been developed and improved to aid understanding of the sediment transport process due to tsunamis. However, the applicability of these models for the field-scale bathymetric change remains a major issue due to the scarcity of measured bathymetric data immediately before and after tsunamis. This study focuses on assessing the applicability of the sediment transport model by comparing the model results with measured bathymetry data obtained one month before and two months after the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami at Kirinda Fishery Harbor, Sri Lanka. Obtained model results were compared with measured data along four different transects. In particular, similar to the measured data, the model reproduced the bed level change at the harbor mouth well, although it shows some discrepancy on bathymetric change along the shoreline, which is directly affected by littoral drift. Therefore, it is noted that the divergence of reproducing the local bathymetry change is due to the normal wind wave effect on measured data and the model limitations. Hence we included the wind wave effect in modeled data and the discrepancy between measured and modeled data was reduced. Furthermore, the modeled bed level change indicates a dynamic behavior in terms of the net variation during the tsunami flow, such that deposition dominates in the inflow and erosion dominates in the backflow. Both bed level variation and the suspended load concentration reveal that the large amount of eroded sediment attributable to tsunami waves was in suspended form and was deposited in the nearshore area after the water fluctuation had abated. The model results further indicate that eroded sediment at the initial depth deeper than 11 m might be brought by the incoming tsunami waves and deposited in the nearshore area where the depth is shallower than 7 m. 相似文献
5.
The tsunami similar to the one that has occurred in December 26, 2004 (Boxing Day Tsunami) in the Indian Ocean is simulated using the expression derived from Modified Weibull Distribution (for maximum wave height simulation) for extreme wave height predictions. The tuning coefficient plays a significant role in estimating the tsunami heights at various stages. It follows well defined mathematical laws at different stages. It is time dependent in the first three stages and depth dependent in the last two stages. The beach run-up heights estimated by the expression derived from the work-energy relation are comparable with observed values with reasonable accuracy. 相似文献
6.
The tsunami similar to the one that has occurred in December 26, 2004 (Boxing Day Tsunami) in the Indian Ocean is simulated using the expression derived from Modified Weibull Distribution (for maximum wave height simulation) for extreme wave height predictions. The tuning coefficient plays a significant role in estimating the tsunami heights at various stages. It follows well defined mathematical laws at different stages. It is time dependent in the first three stages and depth dependent in the last two stages. The beach run-up heights estimated by the expression derived from the work-energy relation are comparable with observed values with reasonable accuracy. 相似文献
7.
Coastline sand waves have been observed at “El Puntal” spit, located on the north coast of Spain. The spit has been monitored by an Argus video system since 2003 and the formation and destruction of sand waves has been observed. Coastline data from the video images are analyzed by means of principal components analysis, obtaining a mean sand wave length of 125–150 m and a maximum amplitude of ≈ 15 m. It is also observed that sand waves reach their maximum amplitude at about 15 days. No propagation of these sand waves is noticed during the approximately two-month-long events analyzed. Sand wave formation and evolution are examined in relation with the prevailing local wave conditions during that period. Incident waves at the west end of the spit approach from the east–northeast, with a very high angle with respect to the shoreline. Field observations suggest that sand waves may result from an instability in alongshore sediment transport caused by moderate-energy waves with a high-angle incidence. 相似文献
8.
1 .IntroductionWiththedevelopmentofexploitationofmarineresources ,theconstructionofoffshorestructuresdevelopsrapidly ,suchasmarineoilplatforms ,deep waterbreakwaters ,marinebridges ,largehar bors,etc .Thesestructureswillchangesurroundingwaveandcurrentconditionsandleadtolocalscourofseabed ,resultinginstructuraldamage .Therefore ,localscouraroundmarinestructuresaswellastheirprotectionhasdrawnmuchattentionfromrelativeengineeringfields .Manyscholarshaveconduct edtheoreticalanalysisandexperimentals… 相似文献
9.
S. Srinivasalu N. Thangadurai Adam D. Switzer V. Ram Mohan T. Ayyamperumal 《Marine Geology》2007,240(1-4):65-75
Laterally extensive sand sheets deposited by the 26th December 2004 Asian tsunami provide a valuable modern analogue for comparison with wash over deposits of unknown origin. In many places on the east coast of India, distinct deposits of marine sand drape the landscape and overlie the muddy soils of the coastal plain. This paper discusses detailed measurements of coastal topography, tsunami flow height, and deposit thickness made at Kalpakkam, India. Five transects were examined in detail to assess the sedimentology and spatial distribution of the tsunami deposit. Near the mean water line, the tsunami eroded approximately 10–25 cm of sand from the beach and berm. At Kalpakkam the sand sheet deposited by the tsunami begins 25 m from the shore extending 420 m inland where it becomes thin and patchy approximately 30 m from the limit of inundation. In some cases, the deposit consists of 2 to 4 normally graded units, with coarse sand near the base and fine sand at the top, a characteristic observed in many tsunami deposits worldwide. In many places, the deposits also contain numerous thin laminated units, a characteristic usually associated with storm over wash. The presence of the laminated beds is indicative of the complexity of tsunami sedimentation on the coast. Such observations are essential to the formation of definitive facies models for palaeo-overwash studies that are capable of distinguishing between sediments deposited by storms or tsunami. 相似文献
10.
利用2014–2017年在台湾海峡西部采集的多波束、单道地震剖面、沉积物粒度样品及海流监测资料,在厦门湾近岸陆架区识别出一系列海底沙波,并对沙波的形态特征、分布规律和沉积物组成特征进行分析,探讨水动力条件及其对沙波发育的影响。结果表明沙波发育区水深一般为10~60 m,地形较平缓开阔,坡度一般为0°~1°;平面上沙波区呈一系列NW-SE向条带状坡地,波脊呈线性或新月形,波脊轴线为SW-NE方向,沙波波长为120~800 m,波高2~12 m,沙波指数较大(>30)。地震剖面显示,波形形态主要分为三类:近对称性沙波、非对称性沙波及叠合沙波。近对称性沙纹的波高较大,沙波指数小;非对称性沙波的波长较长,沙波指数大;稳定沙波经后期水流“改造、激活”形成叠合沙波。砂含量较高,沉积物类型以砂、粉砂质砂及砂质粉砂为主,多为细砂—中砂。厦门湾口外的近岸陆架区水动力较强,流系复杂,总体受浙闽沿岸流、南海表层流和黑潮分支的影响。本区为不正规半日潮,流速为0.3~0.7 m/s,落潮流以S向为主,涨潮流向以NNE向为主,潮流作用对沙波的发育和改造起重要影响。 相似文献
11.
A unique Yellow River-derived distal subaqueous delta in the Yellow Sea 总被引：11，自引：0，他引：11
Newly acquired high-resolution Chirp sonar profiles reveal a unique Yellow River-derived, alongshore distributed, bidirectional (landward and seaward) across-shelf transported, omega-shaped (“Ω”) distal subaqueous deltaic lobe deposited around the eastern tip of the Shandong Peninsula in the Yellow Sea. This clinoform deposit directly overlies the postglacial transgressive surface, featured by convex-up seafloor morphology, up to 40 m thick locally. Radiocarbon-14 dates from the underlain pre-Holocene and transgressive sediments indicate this distal lobe has formed since the middle-Holocene highstand under a relatively stable sea level. This along-shelf distributed distal clinoform has been deposited mainly by the resuspended Yellow River sediments carried down by the coastal current, interacting with the local waves, tides and upwelling. Collectively, over the past 7000 years, nearly 30% of the Yellow River-derived sediment has been re-suspended and transported out of the Bohai Sea into the Yellow Sea. Overall, the Yellow River-derived sediment could reach the − 80 m water depth in the central South Yellow Sea, about 700 km from the river mouth; in contrast, a very small fraction of the modern riverine sediment could escape the outer shelf or reach the Okinawa Trough. 相似文献
12.
基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE建立了高精度二维数值波浪水槽,采用日本2011年实测真实海啸波型系统研究了海啸波在岛礁上传播变形的规律,并且分析了波高、礁坪淹没水深和礁前斜坡坡度等因素对孤立波和真实海啸传播变形的影响。结果表明,相比孤立波,类海啸波的波长明显大于孤立波波长,在测点处引起的水面变化持续时间更长,同等波高情况下真实海啸波型比孤立波能够携带更多的能量,与岛礁的相互作用也更为复杂,在礁坪上形成的淹没水深约为孤立波的两倍。礁前斜坡坡度和礁坪淹没水深均对类海啸波的反射和透射系数有显著影响。随着礁前斜坡坡度的增加,反射系数和透射系数均逐渐增加。随着礁坪淹没水深的增加,反射系数逐渐减小,而透射系数逐渐增大。但是,反射系数和透射系数均随着入射波高的增加而逐渐减小。 相似文献
13.
14.
Depth of activation on a mixed sediment beach 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The relationship between wave height and depth of sediment activation is evaluated on an estuarine beach to determine whether activation depth is less in pebbles than sand. Rods with washers were used to monitor three excavated beach plots filled with (1) pebbles with mean grain size of 11.5 mm; (2) sand and granules; and (3) sand, granules and pebbles. Plots were monitored for 26 events over 27 days. Significant wave heights ranged from 0.18 to 0.40 m and activation depths from 0.02 to 0.12 m. Activation depths in the pebble plot were less than the other two plots when waves reworked sediment not activated during previous tidal cycles. Proportionality coefficients for activation depth to wave height, when net change was < 0.02 m, were 0.24 in the pebble plot and 0.30–0.31 in the other plots when experimental fill sediments remained and 0.22 to 0.23 in all three plots over the entire monitoring period, which included activation of newly deposited native sediment. Results suggest that for similar wave heights, activation depths in pebbles is lower than in sand, granules and pebbles or sand and granules, but once waves have reworked the sediment there is little difference in activation depths. 相似文献
15.
Hideaki Yanagisawa Shunichi Koshimura Kazuhisa Goto Toyohiko Miyagi Fumihiko Imamura Anat Ruangrassamee Charlchai Tanavud 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2009
Using an integrated approach including satellite imagery analysis, field measurements, and numerical modeling, we investigated the damage to mangroves caused by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami at Pakarang Cape in Pang Nga Province, Thailand. Comparing pre- and post-tsunami satellite imagery of the study area, we found that approximately 70% of the mangrove forest was destroyed by the tsunami. Based on field observations, we found that the survival rate of mangroves increased with increasing stem diameter. Specifically, we found that 72% of Rhizophora trees with a 25–30 cm stem diameter survived the tsunami impact, whereas only 19% with a 15–20 cm stem diameter survived. We simulated the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami using the nonlinear shallow-water wave theory to reproduce the tsunami inundation flow and investigated the bending moment acting on the mangrove trees. Results of the numerical model showed that the tsunami inundated areas along the mangrove creeks, and its current velocity reached 5.0 m s−1. Based on the field measurements and numerical results, we proposed a fragility function for mangroves, which is the relationship between the probability of damage and the bending stress caused by the maximum bending moment. We refined the numerical model to include the damage probability of mangrove forests using the obtained fragility function to investigate the tsunami reduction effect of mangrove forest. Under simple numerical conditions related to the mangrove forest, ground level, and incident wave, the model showed that a mangrove forest of Rhizophora sp. with a density of 0.2 trees m−2 and a stem diameter of 15 cm in a 400 m wide area can reduce the tsunami inundation depth by 30% when the incident wave is assumed to have a 3.0 m inundation depth and a wave period of 30 min at the shoreline. However, 50% of the mangrove forest is destroyed by a 4.5 m tsunami inundation depth, and most of the mangrove forest is destroyed by a tsunami inundation depth greater than 6 m. The reduction effect of tsunami inundation depth decreased when the tsunami inundation depth exceeded 3 m, and was mostly lost when the tsunami inundation depth exceeded 6 m. 相似文献
16.
Tokuo Yamamoto 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2013,31(2):93-130
Abstract The problem of forced vibration of a slightly inelastic porous bed by water waves is treated analytically on the basis of a linearized expression of the nonlinear damping term for the grain‐to‐grain friction in bed soils and the linear theory by Biot (1962a [Jour. Appl. Physics, 33:1482–1498]) on the elastic wave propagation in porous media. A dispersion relation of water waves is obtained as a function of wave frequency, water depth, permeability, Poisson's ratio, rigidity, and specific loss of bed soil. Three types of elastic waves are induced in a bed by water waves: a shear wave and a compressional wave in the skeletal frame of soil, and a compressional wave in the pore fluid. The compressional wave, due to the motion of the pore fluid relative to the skeletal frame of soil, is highly damped by the viscosity of pore fluid and only a short range effect near the boundaries of discontinuity, such as a sea‐seabed interface. The seabed response to water waves is characterized by the two Mach numbers, i.e., the ratio of water‐wave speed to shear‐wave speed in soil and the ratio of water‐wave speed to compressional‐wave speed in soil. Most of the water‐wave propagation problems fall into the subsonic flow condition, where elastic waves in the bed travel faster than water waves. For sandy beds, generally the speeds of compressional and shear waves are much higher than the phase velocity of the water wave. For this case, the solution of the Coulomb‐damped poroelastic bed response presented in this paper approaches the solution of the massless poroelastic bed response in Yamamoto et al. (1978 [Jour. Fluid Mech., 87(1): 193–206]). The damping of water waves due to internal grain‐to‐grain friction is equally or more significant than the damping due to percolation in sand beds. For clay beds, the speed of the shear wave in soil becomes low and comparable to the phase speed of the water wave. The bed motion for this case is considerably amplified due to the near‐resonance vibration of shear mode of bed vibration. The water wavelength on a clay bed is significantly shortened compared to the water wavelength over a rigid bed. The water wave damping due to internal grain‐to‐grain friction in soil becomes much larger compared to the water wave damping due to percolation in clay beds. Long water waves over a soft clayey bed attenuate within several wavelengths of travel distance. 相似文献
17.
Morphological features observed in both swath bathymetry and seismic reflection data are not unique, which introduces uncertainty as to their origin. The origin of features observed in the Humboldt Slide has generated much controversy because the same features have been interpreted as a submarine failure deposit versus current-controlled sediment waves. It is important to resolve this controversy because similar structures are observed on many continental margins and the origin of these features needs to be understood. Anisotropy of magnetic susceptibility (AMS) measurements on sediment samples acquired from the Humboldt Slide reveal that the top 8 m have not experienced post-depositional deformation. This suggests that these features are formed by primary deposition associated with downslope currents. Using the same AMS technique on a core acquired north of the Humboldt Slide in a region with no geophysical evidence for post-depositional deformation, we were able to identify a 1 m thick deposit that appears to be a small slump. 相似文献
18.
Reconstructing tsunami run-up from the characteristics of tsunami deposits on the Thai Andaman Coast
Tsunamis can leave deposits on the land surface they inundate. The characteristics of tsunami deposits can be used to calculate tsunami run-up height and velocity. This paper presents a reconstruction of tsunami run-up from tsunami deposit characteristics in a simple mathematical model. The model is modified and applied to reconstruct tsunami run-ups at Ao Kheuy beach and Khuk Khak beach, Phangnga province, Thailand. The input parameters are grain-size and maximum run-up distance of the sediment. The reconstructed run-up heights are 4.16–4.91 m at Ao Kheuy beach and 5.43–9.46 m at Khuk Khak beach. The estimated run-up velocities (maximum velocity) at the still water level are 12.78–19.21 m/s. In the area located 70–140 m inland to the end of run-up inundation, estimated mean run-up velocities decrease from approximately 1.93 m/s to 0 m/s. Reasonably good agreements are found between reconstructed and observed run-up heights. The tsunami run-up height and velocity can be used for risk assessment and coastal development programs in the tsunami affected area. The results show that the area from 0 to 140 m inland was flooded by high velocity run-ups and those run-up energies were dissipated mainly in this area. The area should be designated as either an area where settlement is not permitted or an area where effective protection is provided, for example with flood barriers or forest. 相似文献
19.
A simple model is developed to study the initial motion of sediment on a horizontal bed under non-breaking waves. The model is derived to be A=C(T−T0) based on a wide range of experimental data collected in different flow regimes, where A is the nearbed semi-excursion of wave motion, T is the wave period, and C and T0 are the coefficients dependent on sediment properties only. For a given sediment, the onset velocity of sediment motion derived from the model is shown to initially increase sharply with wave period T and then approach a constant. The flow Reynolds number Re corresponding to an initiated sediment is also calculated from the simple model and found to be a function of sediment properties and wave period. For the completeness of this study, the initial motion of light sediment under very short waves is also investigated. The present model agrees well with the available laboratory and field data. 相似文献
20.
A.J.H.M. Reniers M.J. Groenewegen K.C. Ewans S. Masterton G.S. Stelling J. Meek 《Coastal Engineering》2010
The accuracy of nearshore infragravity wave height model predictions has been investigated using a combination of the spectral short wave evolution model SWAN and a linear 1D SurfBeat model (IDSB). Data recorded by a wave rider located approximately 3.5 km from the coast at 18 m water depth have been used to construct the short wave frequency-directional spectra that are subsequently translated to approximately 8 m water depth with the third generation short wave model SWAN. Next the SWAN-computed frequency-directional spectra are used as input for IDSB to compute the infragravity response in the 0.01 Hz–0.05 Hz frequency range, generated by the transformation of the grouped short waves through the surf zone including bound long waves, leaky waves and edge waves at this depth. Comparison of the computed and measured infragravity waves in 8 m water depth shows an average skill of approximately 80%. Using data from a directional buoy located approximately 70 km offshore as input for the SWAN model results in an average infragravity prediction skill of 47%. This difference in skill is in a large part related to the under prediction of the short wave directional spreading by SWAN. Accounting for the spreading mismatch increases the skill to 70%. Directional analyses of the infragravity waves shows that outgoing infragravity wave heights at 8 m depth are generally over predicted during storm conditions suggesting that dissipation mechanisms in addition to bottom friction such as non-linear energy transfer and long wave breaking may be important. Provided that the infragravity wave reflection at the beach is close to unity and tidal water level modulations are modest, a relatively small computational effort allows for the generation of long-term infragravity data sets at intermediate water depths. These data can subsequently be analyzed to establish infragravity wave height design criteria for engineering facilities exposed to the open ocean, such as nearshore tanker offloading terminals at coastal locations. 相似文献