共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 32 毫秒
1.
A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents. 相似文献
2.
J. P. Le Roux 《Geo-Marine Letters》2012,32(1):29-37
The wave friction factor is commonly expressed as a function of the horizontal water particle semi-excursion (A
wb) at the top of the boundary layer. A
wb, in turn, is normally derived from linear wave theory by
\fracU\textwbT\textw2p \frac{{{U_{\text{wb}}}{T_{\text{w}}}}}{{2\pi }} , where U
wb is the maximum water particle velocity measured at the top of the boundary layer and T
w is the wave period. However, it is shown here that A
wb determined in this way deviates drastically from its real value under both linear and non-linear waves. Three equations for
smooth, transitional and rough boundary conditions, respectively, are proposed to solve this problem, all three being a function
of U
wb, T
w, and δ, the thickness of the boundary layer. Because these variables can be determined theoretically for any bottom slope and water
depth using the deepwater wave conditions, there is no need to physically measure them. Although differing substantially from
many modern attempts to define the wave friction factor, the results coincide with equations proposed in the 1960s for either
smooth or rough boundary conditions. The findings also confirm that the long-held notion of circular water particle motion
down to the bottom in deepwater conditions is erroneous, the motion in fact being circular at the surface and elliptical at
depth in both deep and shallow water conditions, with only horizontal motion at the top of the boundary layer. The new equations
are incorporated in an updated version (WAVECALC II) of the Excel program published earlier in this journal by Le Roux et
al. Geo-Mar Lett 30(5): 549–560, (2010). 相似文献
3.
程鹏 《海洋学报(英文版)》2020,42(5):1-2
在受波动影响的近岸浅水区域，运用sigma坐标是计算平均水位附近的余流的有效途径。本项研究在理论上分析了在狭窄潮汐水道中sigma坐标下的余流的物理意义，并运用一系列的理想化数值模型对分析结果进行了验证。对于浅水波，sigma层和水体中的波动面相一致，因而斯托克斯速度及其分量可以用sigma坐标上的速度来表达。一个sigma层上的余流（即sigma余流）是位于这一sigma层平均深度上的欧拉余流和斯托克斯速度垂向分量的和，可以被看做是半拉格朗日余流。因为斯托克斯速度的垂向分量比其水平分量小一个量级，sigma余流可看做为欧拉余流的近似。在sigma层上的物质输运余流是sigma余流和斯托克斯速度水平分量的和，在大小和方向上和拉格朗日余流近似。 相似文献
4.
Water surface profiles and horizontal and vertical water particle velocity components have been measured to investigate the properties of intermediate depth waves generated in the laboratory. The data has been compared with linear wave theory. It was found that linear theory predicted the attenuation of velocity field with depth successfully and that it overestimates both components of velocity slightly. 相似文献
5.
6.
南海北部湾海洋工程地质特征 总被引：8，自引：0，他引：8
根据地球物理、声学探测及海底取样等实测资料详细分析,发现北部湾油气勘探开发区具有近岸、水浅等优越自然条件以及复杂的海洋工程地质特征。海底地形地貌较为复杂,存在潮流沙脊与潮沟、海底沙坡、埋藏古河道、浅层气、埋藏古陡坡、滑塌断层及可能的砂土液化层等潜在灾害地质因素,对海上构筑物存在直接或潜在的危险性。尤其在东部,海底坎坷不平,活动性的潮流消脊、侵蚀沟槽、海底沙波及浅层气等很发育,是海底工程建设的危险区,应引起高度重视。 相似文献
7.
《Oceanologica Acta》2002,25(2):87-99
During previous field experiments in the North Sea it was often assumed that the water column in such shallow coastal tidal waters is vertically well mixed and stratification was neglected when discussing the Normalized Radar Cross Section modulation caused by the sea floor. In this paper the influence of quasi resonant internal waves with the sea bed on the radar imaging mechanism of submarine sand waves itself is investigated. In situ data of the tidal current velocity and several water quality parameters such as sea surface temperature, fluorescence, and beam transmittance were measured in the Southern Bight of the North Sea in April 1991. Simulations of the total NRCS modulation caused by sand waves and internal waves as a function of the current gradient or strain rate induced by the internal wave current field at the sea surface have been carried out using the quasi-steady approximation and linear internal wave theory. As a first approximation the strain rate depending on stratification was calculated using the two-layer model. These simulations demonstrate that at least a density difference between the two layers of the order of Δρ ≈ 1 kg m–3 is necessary for a sinusoidal thermocline to effect the total NRCS modulation considerably. The NRCS modulation as a function of wind friction velocity has been calculated independently and is discussed with regard to the strain rate of the surface current field caused by the superimposed imaging mechanisms of sand waves and internal waves. It turned out that the existence of a surface roughness-wind stress feedback mechanism cannot be excluded. 相似文献
8.
Stanislaw R. Massel 《Ocean Engineering》1998,25(9):735-752
The vertical acceleration threshold concept has been applied to evaluate the limiting wave height in the train of wind-induced waves propagated over a horizontal bottom. This concept yields very simple computation of the probability of breaking for stochastic sea in deep and finite water depths. The computations confirmed the available field and laboratory observations that the limiting wave steepness in the deep water is lower than the steepness predicted by Stokes. For shallow water depth, the limiting wave height is smaller than 0.55h. This conclusion is consistent with field as well as wave tank observations. 相似文献
9.
《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2001,48(11):2497-2519
A perturbation model is presented for a velocity field of a bottom current flowing over a sinusoidal topography or an obstacle. The model extends existing theory by taking into account the three-dimensional Coriolis vector and an initial horizontal velocity vector at any orientation. One possible mechanism of the development of sedimentary waves in the vicinity of an obstacle by an arbitrarily oriented initial horizontal current is analyzed in detail. Space-stationary fluid particle oscillations are initiated on the downstream side of an obstacle, which can result in sedimentary waves. The model shows that their wavelength depends on latitude, water depth, obstacle width and orientation as well as the initial current direction and intensity. The model defines intervals for current velocities normal to the wave crest, for which the sedimentary waves grow (or are destroyed) or migrate in a certain direction. Information derived from bathymetric and seismic surveys, such as wavelength, height, orientation and migration direction of mudwaves, can be used to calculate the velocity component across the wave crest and to estimate the current direction, as is demonstrated for an example from the Argentine Basin (Project MUDWAVES, Site 5). 相似文献
10.
Abstract Studies of coastal bathymetry are important where littoral drift has implications on the planning of fishing and dredging operations. Also, there is a possibility of finding hitherto unknown bottom features in relatively less explored regions of the shallow seas around the globe. High resolution satellite imagery over oceans provides us with quantitative methods for estimating depth in shallow parts of the seas. One of the methods is the analysis of the refraction of coastal gravity waves observed on satellite imagery. A panchromatic image acquired by SPOT with 10 m resolution on March 22, 1986, over Bay of Bengal near Madras Coast, was used for this analysis. The image was enhanced to clearly bring out the wave structure seen on the sea surface. The image was then superimposed with a 1 km × 1 km grid. For each grid cell, 64 × 64 pixels at the center were considered for getting a Fast Fourier Transform to determine the wave spectrum and the dominant wavelength present there. The classical theory of gravity waves was used to relate the shallow water wavelengths obtained as above with the corresponding wavelengths in the deep water. The deep‐water wavelength was estimated to be 110 m using the known chart depths at a set of control points. The resulting depth estimates, when compared with standard bathymetric charts, were found, in general, to be well in agreement up to a depth of 30 m in the sea, with an r.m.s. error of 2.6 meters. The method seems to be very useful for remotely sensed bathymetric work. However, further research is required to reduce the error margin and operationalize the method. 相似文献
11.
利用2002—2015年ARGO网格化的温度、盐度数据, 结合卫星资料揭示了赤道东印度洋和孟加拉湾障碍层厚度的季节内和准半年变化特征, 探讨了其变化机制。结果表明, 障碍层厚度变化的两个高值区域出现在赤道东印度洋和孟加拉湾北部。在赤道区域, 障碍层同时受到等温层和混合层变化的影响, 5—7月和11—1月受西风驱动, Wyrtki急流携带阿拉伯海的高盐水与表层的淡水形成盐度层结, 同时西风驱动的下沉Kelvin波加深了等温层, 混合层与等温层分离, 障碍层形成。在湾内, 充沛的降雨和径流带来的大量淡水产生很强的盐度层结, 混合层全年都非常浅, 障碍层季节内变化和准半年变化主要受等温层深度变化的影响。上述两个区域障碍层变化存在关联, 季节内和准半年周期的赤道纬向风驱动的波动过程是它们存在联系的根本原因。赤道东印度洋地区的西风(东风)强迫出向东传的下沉(上升)的Kelvin波, 在苏门答腊岛西岸转变为沿岸Kelvin波向北传到孟加拉湾的东边界和北边界, 并且在缅甸的伊洛瓦底江三角洲顶部(95°E, 16°N)激发出向西的Rossby波, 造成湾内等温层深度的正(负)异常, 波动传播的速度决定了湾内的变化过程滞后于赤道区域1~2个月。 相似文献
12.
In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution. The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition. Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured. Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible. 相似文献
13.
Numerical Simulation of Local Scour Around A Large Circular Cylinder Under Wave Action 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A horizontal two- dimensional numerical model is developed for estimation of sediment transport and sea bed change around a large circular cylinder under wave action. The wave model is based on an elliptic mild slope equation. The wave-induced current by the gradient of radiation stress is considered and a depth integrated shallow water equation is applied to the calculation of the current. The mass transport velocity and the bed shear stress due to streaming are considered, which are important factors affecting the sediment transport around a structure due to waves, especially in reflective areas. Wave-current interaction is taken into account in the model for computing the bed shear stress. The model is implemented by a finite element method. The results of this model are compared with those from other methods and agree well with experimental data. 相似文献
14.
Ship-board global navigation satellite system (GNSS) measurements are widely used to determine sea surface heights, marine geoid validation, and/or satellite altimetry calibration. However, the use of a vessel could be complicated near coastal areas due to shallow water. Therefore, in the area of sea ice formation, GNSS measurements on the ice surface could be a viable alternative to vessel-borne surveys. Importantly, the ice-covered water is not affected by short-term winds, which otherwise could have systematic influence on the instantaneous sea surface topography. This study tackles methodology and validation of marine geoid models by profile-wise GNSS measurements on ice in an archipelago of the Baltic Sea. The GNSS measurements were carried out on the three ice roads with total length 48 kilometers. The along-route standard deviation between the gravimetric geoid model and profile-wise GNSS heights remained within ±2.1 centimeters. 相似文献
15.
基于遥感与现场观测数据的南海北部内波传播速度 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
南海北部是全球海洋中内波最为活跃、生成和演变机制较为复杂的海域,本文利用多源卫星遥感数据(MODIS、GF-1、ENVISAT ASAR、RADARSAT-2)和现场观测数据开展了南海北部内波传播速度的研究。通过匹配捕获同一条内波的相邻两幅遥感图像,由内波的空间位移和时间间隔反演传播速度,并以0.5°×0.5°网格给出了南海北部内波传播速度的分布图。研究结果表明,内波传播速度受背景流场、水体层结和底地形变化等多因素影响,特别是水深。在南海北部由东至西、由南至北方向,内波传播速度逐渐递减。深海区内波传播速度最大,可达3m/s以上;内波在向西大陆架传播过程中,随着水深变浅速度逐渐减慢,传播速度为1—2m/s;大陆架浅海的内波传播速度较小,仅为零点几米每秒。同时,利用Kd V方程反演了内波传播速度理论值,对遥感数据提取的内波传播速度进行了精度验证,结果较为一致。 相似文献
16.
《海洋技术学报》2024,(1)
为了分析台风影响下浙江沿海风和浪的演变特点，利用浙江省海洋浮标站监测数据和欧洲中期天气预报中心第五代全球气候大气再分析数据（European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts Reanalysis v5，ERA5），选取2010年以来严重影响浙江的7次台风个例，对台风作用下浙江沿海海面风和浪的演变特点进行分析。结果表明：在台风影响过程中，海浪波型多数呈现混合浪-风浪-混合浪的演变规律；涌浪波型的出现与台风强度及其与浮标站的距离和方位有关，也与海洋潮汐现象紧密相关。台风影响期间，浙江沿海浪高的变化受风速和风向共同作用影响。在风向不变的情况下，持续风速增大对浪高的增大有明显作用；风向的变化也会对浪高变化产生影响，向岸风和离岸风的转变会造成浪高出现剧烈变化。ERA5 再分析资料有效波高在台风浪较大时会呈现偏小的趋势，分析订正后的ERA5 有效波高发现，台风浪有效波高大值区与台风中心位置相关。研究结果可为严重影响浙江沿海的台风浪预报服务提供参考。 相似文献
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18.
The combined tidal and wind driven flow and resulting sediment transport in the ocean over a flat bottom at intermediate water depth has been investigated, using a simple one dimensional two-equation turbulence closure model. This model has been verified against field measurements of a tidal flow in the Celtic Sea. The tidal velocity ellipses and the time series of the horizontal velocity components at given elevations above the bottom are well predicted through the water column although there are some deviations between the predicted and measured velocities near the bottom due to the uncertainty of the bottom roughness. For the combined tidal and wind driven flows the velocity profiles, turbulent kinetic energy profiles and surface particle trajectories are predicted for weak and strong winds. Furthermore, the bottom shear stress and the resulting bedload transport have been predicted; the parts of the particle trajectories in the close vicinity of the bottom where the bedload transport exists are displayed. Finally, the direction and magnitude of the surface drift, the depth-averaged mean velocity and the mean bedload transport are given, and the effect of the bottom roughness on the sea surface drift is investigated. 相似文献
19.
No other environmental variable of such ecological importance to estuarine and coastal marine ecosystems around the world has changed so drastically, in such a short period of time, as dissolved oxygen in coastal waters. The prevalent methods for counteracting anoxic sea events are indirect measures which aim to cut-down anthropic loads introduced in river and marine environments. To date, no direct approaches, like artificial devices have been investigated except the WEBAP and OXYFLUX devices. The present paper adopts a numerical approach to the analysis of the pumped surface water as well as the analysis of the dynamic response of the OXYFLUX device. By means of a CFD-RANS code and through the application of overset grid method, the 1/16 OXYFLUX model’s dynamic response and pumping performance are evaluated. The appropriate grid is selected after an extensive sensitivity analysis carried out on 9 different grids. The CFD model is validated by comparing numerical and physical results of heave decay test, heave response, and surface water discharge under the action of regular waves. The extensive comparison with experimental results shows consistently accurate predictions. The main findings of the study show that nonlinear effects remarkable reduce the dynamic behaviour of the OXYFLUX and generate an unexpected second harmonic for pitch response intensifying the overtopping discharge also for small waves caused by the summer's low intensity winds. 相似文献
20.
A quasi-linear model for determining the aerodynamic drag coefficient of the sea surface and the growth rate of surface waves under a hurricane wind is proposed. The model explains the reduction (stabilization) in the drag coefficient during hurricane winds. This model is based on the solution of the Reynolds equations in curvilinear coordinates with the use of the approximation of the eddy viscosity, which takes into account the presence of the viscous sublayer. The profile of the mean wind velocity is found with consideration for nonlinear wave stresses (wave momentum flux), whereas wave disturbances induced in air by waves on the water surface are determined in the context of linear equations. The model is verified by comparing the calculation results with experimental data for a wide range of wind velocities. The growth rate and drag coefficient for hurricane winds are calculated both with and without consideration for the shortwave portion of the windwave spectrum. On the basis of calculations with the quasi-linear model, a simple parametrization is proposed for the drag coefficient and the growth rate of surface waves during hurricane winds. This model is convenient for use in models of forecasting winds and waves. 相似文献