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1.
变浅作用下浅水海浪谱的计算 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
深水海浪向近岸传播过程中,由于变浅作用,其波面高度分布,波谱都发生了变化。本文基于非线性系统的输出和输入间亦存在转换关系,通过波面高度分布函数建立了深水正态海浪过程作为输入和浅水偏态海浪过程作为输出之间的非线性转换关系,导出了深、浅水谱间的理论关系。在假定能通量不变的条件下,提出了一种由已知深水谱和波面偏度计算二维海浪变浅作用下的浅水谱的方法,并对其进行了讨论和检验。 相似文献
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In this paper further mathematical analysis on "correlation transfer technique" by Polge el al. is carried out, the tenable conditions and the extent of suitability for the said method are proved as well. In consideration of the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on spectral shape, a "quasi-correlation transfer techique" is developed by the modification of the simulated target spectrum. Meanwhile, the numerical simulation of the non-Gaussian process of wind waves is carried out in view of the two conditions of the surface elevation probability distribution and the spectrum. By using its simulated results, the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on two parameters in the distribution of wave heights (which had been fitted by using the Weibull distribution) is analysed. The "quasi- correlation tranfer technique" is verified and compared with the selection wave data observed in the Jiaozhou Bay in the period of 1980 to 1981. Results make clear (hat, as far as the statistical d 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2004,50(4):169-179
Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied. 相似文献
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The random long wave runup on a beach of constant slope is studied in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow water theory. These solutions are used for calculation of the statistical characteristics of the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline and its horizontal velocity. It is shown that probability characteristics of the runup heights and extreme values of the shoreline velocity coincide in the linear and nonlinear theory. If the incident wave is represented by a narrow-band Gaussian process, the runup height is described by a Rayleigh distribution. The significant runup height can also be found within the linear theory of long wave shoaling and runup. Wave nonlinearity nearshore does not affect the Gaussian probability distribution of the velocity of the moving shoreline. However the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline becomes non-Gaussian due to the wave nonlinearity. Its statistical moments are calculated analytically. It is shown that the mean water level increases (setup), the skewness is always positive and kurtosis is positive for weak amplitude waves and negative for strongly nonlinear waves. The probability of the wave breaking is also calculated and conditions of validity of the analytical theory are discussed. The spectral and statistical characteristics of the moving shoreline are studied in detail. It is shown that the probability of coastal floods grows with an increase in the nonlinearity. Randomness of the wave field nearshore leads to an increase in the wave spectrum width. 相似文献
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Statistical analysis of nonlinear random waves is important in coastal and ocean engineering. One approach for modeling nonlinear waves is second-order random wave theory, which involves sum- and difference-frequency interactions between wave components. The probability distribution of the non-Gaussian surface elevation can be solved using a technique developed by Kac and Siegert [21]. The wave field can be significantly modified by wave diffraction due to a structure, and the nonlinear diffracted wave elevation can be of interest in certain applications, such as the airgap prediction for an offshore structure. This paper investigates the wave statistics due to second-order diffraction, motivated by the scarcity of prior research. The crossing rate approach is used to evaluate the extreme wave elevation over a specified duration. The application is a bottom-supported cylindrical structure, for which semi-analytical solutions for the second-order transfer functions are available. A new efficient statistical method is developed to allow the distribution of the diffracted wave elevation to be obtained exactly, accounting for the statistical dependency between the linear, sum-frequency and difference-frequency components. Moreover, refinements are proposed to improve the efficiency for computing the free surface integral. The case study yields insights into the problem. In particular, the second-order nonlinearity is found to significantly amplify the extreme wave elevation, especially in the upstream region; conversely, the extreme elevation at an oblique location downstream is attenuated due to sheltering effects. The statistical dependency between the linear and sum-frequency components is also shown to be important for the extreme wave statistics. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(1):17-36
A time domain method is presented for analyzing simultaneous measurements of pressure and the horizontal components of velocity obtained beneath irregular multidirectional wave fields. This new method differs from the usual linear directional analyses applied to PUV data in two important aspects. First, the essential nonlinearity of the measured waves is not sacrificed to achieve a solution. Therefore, predictions of sea surface elevation and directional kinematics throughout the water column accurately portray the actual nonlinear character of the waves. Second, the analysis method is `local' in that it can be applied to segments of PUV time series much shorter than an individual wave. The viability of the locally nonlinear methodology developed in this paper is proven by demonstrating agreement with higher-order theoretical steady waves. Predictions of sea surface elevation and wave kinematics are also made using actual measurements from PUV instruments at two ocean sites off the west coast of the United States. 相似文献
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Based on the nonlinear model of two-dimensional random sea waves, a statistical distribution of wave surface slope exact to the third order is derived by using the expansion of the characteristic function and direct calculations of each order moment. Based on the distribution of wave surface slope derived in this paper, a whitecap coverage is proposed by using the limit surface slope as a criterion of wave breaking. The whitecap coverage expressed by the model depends on three parameters which can be determined in principle by the linear wave spectrum and three kinds of wave-wave interaction. 相似文献
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A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
ＡｎｏｎｌｉｎｅａｒｍｏｄｅｌｆｏｒｎｏｎｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｓｈｏａｌｉｎｇｒａｎｄｏｍｗａｖｅｓＬｉｕＸｉｎ＇ａｎ,ＨｕａｎｇＰｅｉｊｉ,ＣｈｅｎＸｕｅｙｉｎｇ,ＨｕＺｅｊｉａｎ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＯｃｔｏｂｅｒ１５,１９９６,ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＡｕｇｕ... 相似文献
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This article concerns the calculation of nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic analysis method. This is a new approach to the calculation of wave crest distribution, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The accuracy and efficiency of this new approach for calculating the wave crest distribution are validated by comparing the results predicted using it with those predicted by using the Monte Carlo simulation (MCS) method, by using a previous Transformed Rayleigh method, by using some existing wave crest distribution formulas, and by using the measured surface elevation data at the Poseidon platform in the Japan Sea. 相似文献
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An efficient focusing model for generation of freak waves 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves. 相似文献
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Wave-tide-surge coupled simulation for typhoon Maemi 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The main task of this study focuses on studying the effect of wave-current interaction on currents, storm surge and wind wave as well as effects of current induced wave refraction and current on waves by using numerical models which consider the bottom boundary layer and sea surface roughness parameter for shallow and smooth bed area around Korean Peninsula. The coupled system (unstructured-mesh SWAN wave and ADCIRC) run on the same unstructured mesh. This identical and homogeneous mesh allows the physics of wave-circulation interactions to be correctly resolved in both models. The unstructured mesh can be applied to a large domain allowing all energy from deep to shallow waters to be seamlessly followed. There is no nesting or overlapping of structured wave meshes, and no interpolation is required. In response to typhoon Maemi (2003), all model components were validated independently, and shown to provide a faithful representation of the system’s response to this storm. The waves and storm surge were allowed to develop on the continental shelf and interact with the complex nearshore environment. The resulting modeling system can be used extensively for prediction of the typhoon surge. The result show that it is important to incorporate the wave-current interaction effect into coastal area in the wave-tide-surge coupled model. At the same time, it should consider effects of depth-induced wave breaking, wind field, currents and sea surface elevation in prediction of waves. Specially, we found that: (1) wave radiation stress enhanced the current and surge elevation otherwise wave enhanced nonlinear bottom boundary layer decreased that, (2) wind wave was significantly controlled by sea surface roughness thus we cautiously took the experimental expression. The resulting modeling system can be used for hindcasting (prediction) the wave-tide-surge coupled environments at complex coastline, shallow water and fine sediment area like areas around Korean Peninsula. 相似文献
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This paper concerns the calculation of wave height exceedance probabilities for nonlinear irregular waves in transitional water depths, and a Transformed Rayleigh method is first proposed for carrying out the calculation. In the proposed Transformed Rayleigh method, the transformation model is chosen to be a monotonic exponential function, calibrated such that the first three moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. The proposed new method has been applied for calculating the wave height exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Poseidon platform. It is demonstrated in this case that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than those by using the conventional Rayleigh wave height distribution model. The proposed new method has been further applied for calculating the total horizontal loads on a generic jacket, and its accuracy has once again been substantiated. The research findings gained from this study demonstrate that the proposed Transformed Rayleigh model can be utilized as a promising alternative to the well-established nonlinear wave height distribution models. 相似文献
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This paper concerns the calculation of wave height exceedance probabilities for nonlinear irregular waves in transitional water depths, and a Transformed Rayleigh method is first proposed for carrying out the calculation. In the proposed Transformed Rayleigh method, the transformation model is chosen to be a monotonic exponential function, calibrated such that the first three moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. The proposed new method has been applied for calculating the wave height exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Poseidon platform. It is demonstrated in this case that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than those by using the conventional Rayleigh wave height distribution model. The proposed new method has been further applied for calculating the total horizontal loads on a generic jacket, and its accuracy has once again been substantiated. The research findings gained from this study demonstrate that the proposed Transformed Rayleigh model can be utilized as a promising alternative to the well-established nonlinear wave height distribution models. 相似文献
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The wave height distribution with Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation are investigated. The results show that a non-Gaussian model of wave height distribution reasonably agrees with experimental data. It is discussed that the fourth order moment (kurtosis) of water surface elevation corresponds to the first order nonlinear correction of wave heights and is related with wave grouping. 相似文献
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A. Toffoli M. Onorato E. Bitner-Gregersen A.R. Osborne A.V. Babanin 《Ocean Engineering》2008,35(3-4):367-379
When the wave spectrum is sufficiently narrow-banded and the wave steepness is sufficiently high, the modulational instability can take place and waves can be higher than expected from second-order wave theory. In order to investigate these effects on the statistical distribution of long-crested, deep water waves, direct numerical simulations of the Euler equations have been performed. Results show that, for a typical design spectral shape, both the upper and lower tails of the probability density function for the surface elevation significantly deviate from the commonly used second-order wave theory. In this respect, the crest elevation is observed to increase up to 18% at low probability levels. It would furthermore be expected that wave troughs become shallower due to nonlinear effects. Nonetheless, the numerical simulations show that the trough depressions tend to be deeper than in second-order theory. 相似文献