共查询到17条相似文献，搜索用时 93 毫秒
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利用大型水槽设计了在由深水到近岸不同坡度处海浪在变浅作用下诱导产生的长周期重力波的实验。正态随机海浪在深水生成并沿斜坡向浅水传播,记录了不同水深处波面高度随时间的变化过程并进行统计分析和谱分析。实验数据分析结果表明,长周期重力波的能量随着水深的变浅而增高,其谱锋频率位于0.2~0.3fp附近,这里fp是深水正态海浪过程的谱峰频率。长周期重力波的能量与入射波的能量比与波面高度分布的偏度密切相关。进一步分析了两种波动的能量谱峰值比和波面高度分布偏度的相关关系,获得了经验关系,为预测近岸浅水长周期重力波提供了科学依据。 相似文献
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变浅作用下浅水海浪谱的计算 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
深水海浪向近岸传播过程中,由于变浅作用,其波面高度分布,波谱都发生了变化。本文基于非线性系统的输出和输入间亦存在转换关系,通过波面高度分布函数建立了深水正态海浪过程作为输入和浅水偏态海浪过程作为输出之间的非线性转换关系,导出了深、浅水谱间的理论关系。在假定能通量不变的条件下,提出了一种由已知深水谱和波面偏度计算二维海浪变浅作用下的浅水谱的方法,并对其进行了讨论和检验。 相似文献
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偏态海浪过程的数值模拟 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
本文对Polge等人提出的“相关传递法”作了进一步数学分析,论证了其成立条件和适用范围.考虑波面偏度对谱形的影响,将模拟的靶谱加以改造,建立了“准相关传递法”.在同时考虑波剖面高度分布和谱两个条件下,对偏态海浪过程进行数值模拟.就模拟结果,分析了以Weibull分布拟合波高分布时,其波面偏度对波高分布中两参数的影响. 文中选用1980-1981年在胶州湾观测的波浪资料对“准相关传递法”加以检验和比较.结果表明:就波高分布、波面极大(小)值分布而言,准相关传递法明显优于传统的线性叠加法,比线性叠加法模拟的结果更接近于实测资料. 相似文献
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基于非线性Beta波面分布，采用变换ξ=lnH／γ，导出了一种仅用随机波面偏度λ3和尖度λ4两个参数表示的非线性有效波高概率分布——对数-Beta分布，发展了线性海浪有效波高的双参数对数-正态分布。对比结果表明，对数-Beta分布理论曲线与其对应的实测资料符合良好。推导出的对数-Beta分布的优点是，基本参数较少且便于确定，并可由随机波面高度资料直接推导出对应的有效波高概率密度函数。 相似文献
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基于非线性Beta波面分布,采用经验变换,导出1种仅用随机波面偏度λ3和尖度λ4 2个参数表示的非线性海浪波高概率统计分布--波高类Beta分布.此分布发展了线性窄谱假定下的Rayleigh分布.就所用实验室资料验证而言,本文推导的波高类Beta分布要优于几种工程上常用的波高分布. 相似文献
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用波面高度分布的非正态特征反演非线性随机海浪 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
本文不依据波动的非线性方程,而是利用波面高度分布的非正态特征反演非线性随机海浪.在窄谱条件下,论述了反演的非线性波面、谱及波面极大(小)值分布同现有某些非线性理论结果的一致性,以深水正态海浪过程用浅水非正态特征反演浅水非线性海浪过程及其谱作为算例,并用实测资料检验,结果表明,其同实测值符合较好,从而说明本文方法是可行的. 相似文献
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基于Longuest-Higgins(1963)非线性海浪模型,在有限水深且存在均匀背景流的条件下,根据Song(2006)给出的波面位移二阶表达式,采用Combi海浪频谱计算了海表面定点波面位移时间序列和波面位移概率统计分布。分析了波面位移统计分布随风速、水深、反波龄和均匀背景流的变化特征和规律以及不同海况条件下二阶非线性项对波面位移统计分布的影响。结果表明:二阶非线性项使波面位移分布偏离正态分布,二阶非线性作用受风速、水深、反波龄和均匀背景流的影响。风速增大、水深降低、反波龄减小或者均匀背景流和风速传播方向相反均使波面位移二阶非线性项的作用加强,无因次波面位移概率密度分布的偏度和峰度随之增大,反之则二阶非线性项作用减弱。当均匀背景流和风速相同时,虽然使非线性项的作用减弱,但平均波面位移反而比静止水平面降低。当均匀背景流和风速相反时,虽然使非线性作用增强,但平均波面位移反而趋于静止水平面。得到如下结论:二阶非线性项对于波面位移有显著影响,数值模拟波面位移需要增加二阶非线性项。通过以上研究,提高了数值模拟波面位移的准确性,而波面位移是海浪最基本的特征量,从而增强了海浪模拟和预报的准确性,对海洋工程、海–气相互作用、上层海洋动力学等具有重要意义。 相似文献
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基于Longuet－Higgins提出的非线性随机海浪模型，在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩，导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布。该分布为非正态，其形式为截断的级数，而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响，波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。 相似文献
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基于Ｌｏｎｇｕｅｔ－Ｈｉｇｇｉｎｓ提出的非线性随机海浪模型，在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩，导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布，该分布为非正态，其形式为截断的级数，而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响，波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。 相似文献
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A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
ＡｎｏｎｌｉｎｅａｒｍｏｄｅｌｆｏｒｎｏｎｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｓｈｏａｌｉｎｇｒａｎｄｏｍｗａｖｅｓＬｉｕＸｉｎ＇ａｎ,ＨｕａｎｇＰｅｉｊｉ,ＣｈｅｎＸｕｅｙｉｎｇ,ＨｕＺｅｊｉａｎ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＯｃｔｏｂｅｒ１５,１９９６,ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＡｕｇｕ... 相似文献
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In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution. The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition. Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured. Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible. 相似文献
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In this paper further mathematical analysis on "correlation transfer technique" by Polge el al. is carried out, the tenable conditions and the extent of suitability for the said method are proved as well. In consideration of the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on spectral shape, a "quasi-correlation transfer techique" is developed by the modification of the simulated target spectrum. Meanwhile, the numerical simulation of the non-Gaussian process of wind waves is carried out in view of the two conditions of the surface elevation probability distribution and the spectrum. By using its simulated results, the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on two parameters in the distribution of wave heights (which had been fitted by using the Weibull distribution) is analysed. The "quasi- correlation tranfer technique" is verified and compared with the selection wave data observed in the Jiaozhou Bay in the period of 1980 to 1981. Results make clear (hat, as far as the statistical d 相似文献
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This is the second of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In the first paper the general model was described and it was applied to study cross-shore motion of regular waves in the surf zone. In this paper, part II, we consider the cross-shore motion of wave groups and irregular waves with emphasis on shoaling, breaking and runup as well as the generation of surf beats. These phenomena are investigated numerically by using a time-domain Boussinesq type model, which resolves the primary wave motion as well as the long waves. As compared with the classical Boussinesq equations, the equations adopted here allow for improved linear dispersion characteristics and wave breaking is modelled by using a roller concept for spilling breakers. The swash zone is included by incorporating a moving shoreline boundary condition and radiation of short and long period waves from the offshore boundary is allowed by the use of absorbing sponge layers. Mutual interaction between short waves and long waves is inherent in the model. This allows, for example, for a general exchange of energy between triads rather than a simple one-way forcing of bound waves and for a substantial modification of bore celerities in the swash zone due to the presence of long waves. The model study is based mainly on incident bichromatic wave groups considering a range of mean frequencies, group frequencies, modulation rates, sea bed slopes and surf similarity parameters. Additionally, two cases of incident irregular waves are studied. The model results presented include transformation of surface elevations during shoaling, breaking and runup and the resulting shoreline oscillations. The low frequency motion induced by the primary-wave groups is determined at the shoreline and outside the surf zone by low-pass filtering and subsequent division into incident bound and free components and reflected free components. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature and the agreement is generally found to be very good. Finally the paper includes special details from the breaker model: time and space trajectories of surface rollers revealing the breakpoint oscillation and the speed of bores; envelopes of low-pass filtered radiation stress and surface elevation; sensitivity of surf beat to group frequency, modulation rate and bottom slope is investigated. Part III of this work (Sørensen et al., 1998) presents nearshore circulations induced by the breaking of unidirectional and multi-directional waves. 相似文献
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Ｂｉｓｐｅｃｔｒｕｍａｎｄａｓｙｍｍｅｔｒｙｏｆｗａｖｅｓｈａｐｅ￥ＤｉｎｇＰｉｎｇｘｉｎｇ；ＫｏｎｇＹａｚｈｅｎ；ａｎｄＳｕｎＦｕ（ＳｔａｔｅＫｅｙＬａｂｏｒａｔｏｒｙＯｆＥｓｔｕａｒｉｎｅａｎｄ￣ａｌＲ￣ｈ，ＩｎｓｔｉｔｕｔｅｏｆＥＳｔｕａｒｉｎ... 相似文献
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Momoki Koga 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(2):105-114
The relation between the intensity of breaking of individual wind-wave crests and parameters of wave size and wave form (e. g., height, period, steepness and skewness) is examined, and the process of change of these parameters is studied in a wind-wave
tank (reference wind speed 15 m sec−1, fetch 16 m). Distributions of the wave form parameters are different for breaking and nonbreaking waves. Fully breaking
waves seem to hold the relationH ∞T
2, whereH is the individual wave height andT is the period. The condition of breaking is not simply determined by the simple criterion of Stokes' limit. Wave height and
steepness of a breaking wave are not always larger than those of a nonbreaking wave. This suggests the existence of an overshooting
phenomenon in the breaking wave. The wave form parameters are found to change cyclically in a statistical sense during the
wave propagation. The period of the cycle in the present case is estimated to be longer than four wave periods. An intermittency
of wave breaking is associated with this cyclic process. Roughly speaking, two or three succeeding breaking-waves sporadically
exist among a series of nonbreaking waves along the fetch. 相似文献
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A. S. Zapevalov 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2012,48(2):200-206
We assess the influence of changes in the skewness and kurtosis of the distribution of elevations on a rough sea surface that
were observed in field conditions on the accuracy of the recovery of the sea-surface level along the satellite trace. For
different values of a significant height of surface waves, we obtain numerical estimates for the bias in relief recovery due
to the simultaneous variation in skewness and kurtosis. It is shown that, with a decrease in kurtosis, the effect of skewness
changes on the accuracy of altimetry measurements of the level increases. We note the limitations of the Gram-Charlier model
in simulating the radar waveforms return from the sea surface. 相似文献