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非线性海浪波面与波高的统计分布 总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10
采用风浪谱参量化的方法将随机波面无因次化,把波面与波高概率分布的各阶矩展开为谱宽度根方的幂级数,并由此导出波面与波高的统计分布。结果表明,在准确至零阶和一阶时,风浪分别退化为静止海面和单色波;在准确至二阶时,波面为线性模型,即波面服从正态分布;而在准确至三阶以上时,波面分布与Longuet-Higgins导出的非线性海浪模型的Gram-Charlier形分布具有同效益;并在准确至三阶时,导出一种新的波高分布,此分布函数以Longuet-Higgins等给出的Rayleigh分布作为二阶近似的特例。 相似文献
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本文介绍海浪非线性性实验研究的第一部分。利用实验室测得的在各种背景下具有不同非线性强度的风浪波面记录,通过波面统计分析,并与非线性波面理论分布比较,揭示了海浪非线性性的外观特征及其随风速、风区等的变化规律。 相似文献
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海浪非线性性的实验研究 Ⅰ.波面高度分布的非正态性 总被引：5，自引：2，他引：5
本文介绍海浪非线性性实验研究的第一部分.利用实验室测得的在各种背景下具有不同非线性强度的风浪波面记录,通过波面统计分析,并与非线性波面理论分布比较,揭示了海浪非线性性的外观特征及其随风速、风区等的变化规律. 相似文献
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基于Boussinesq水波模型的聚焦波模拟 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
基于最高导数为3阶的单层Boussinesq方程,建立了聚焦波的时域波浪计算模型。数值模型求解采用了预报?校正的有限差分法。对于时间差分格式,预报和校正分别采用3阶Adams-Bashforth格式和4阶Adams-Moulton格式。首先,针对不同水深条件下水槽中传播的强非线性波进行模拟,并将数值结果与流函数的数值解析解进行了比较,结果表明无论是波面位移、波面处的水平速度和垂向速度均与解析解符合较好,最大波峰面的速度分布伴随水深的增加与解析解吻合程度变差,非线性速度分布的适用范围与线性解析解适应范围kh<3.5基本一致。其次,对深水聚焦波演化进行了模拟研究,研究中聚焦波的生成采用在边界点累加不同频率线性规则波的方法。应用聚焦波物理模型实验结果验证模型,计算聚焦位置处的波面位移和沿水深的速度分布与实验结果的对比表明,波面位移吻合程度较好,垂向的水平速度分布基本吻合。最后,保持中心频率(周期)不变,数值模拟了周期范围变化下最大聚焦波峰面以及波峰面水平速度的变化趋势,结果表明波峰面值和波峰面水平速度随着周期范围缩小而增大。 相似文献
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采用目前国际上最新的随机波分析方法,由协方差矩阵的循环嵌套技术,对美国国家浮标44008站2002年6月一典型的双峰海浪谱资料进行谱分析.以实测平均谱为靶谱,对随机波面进行模拟.得到模拟波面估计谱与实测谱极为相近,谱峰及谱峰频率都基本一致.说明利用模拟波面研究海浪具有代表性,它可以反映实测海浪的特征.利用实测海浪谱密度,统计波特征量的周期概率分布,得到理论周期概率密度与估计周期概率密度分布相符较好,且与模拟波面的波周期分布也较好的一致.利用Longuet-Higgins(1983)模型计算了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.得到变换高斯过程计算的波高与周期联合分布与实测情况基本相同,更好地描述了波高-周期联合概率密度分布. 相似文献
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基于Longuet－Higgins提出的非线性随机海浪模型，在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩，导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布。该分布为非正态，其形式为截断的级数，而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响，波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。 相似文献
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波-流联合作用场中流的等效作用研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
针对波-流相互作用问题中的流速沿水深非线性分布的水流处理方法问题,提出了“等效均匀流”概念和相应理论,使非线性分布的水流作用等效为相应的均匀流作用,从而使问题大大简化.无论是二维顺、逆流问题还是三维波一流斜交折射问题,非均匀流都可以基于本文方法和理论予以近似处理,以采用等效均匀流概念计算的小尺度垂直桩桩的波一流联合作用力计算为例,对该理论和方法的应用作了初步的探讨和验证. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2002,46(1):51-60
Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a statistical distribution of the wave-surface elevation is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the distribution, after normalization of the wave-surface elevation, depends only on two parameters. One parameter describes the small mean bias of the surface produced by the second-order wave-wave interactions. Another one is approximately proportional to the skewness of the distribution. Both of these two parameters can be determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, we consider a fully developed wind-generated sea and the parameters are calculated for various wind speeds and water depths by using Donelan and Pierson spectrum. It is also found that, for deep water, the dimensionless distribution reduces to the third-order Gram–Charlier series obtained by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 17 (1963) 459]. The newly proposed distribution is compared with the data of Bitner [Appl. Ocean Res. 2 (1980) 63], Gaussian distribution and the fourth-order Gram–Charlier series, and found our distribution gives a more reasonable fit to the data. 相似文献
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Based on the second-order solutions obtained for the three-dimensional weakly nonlinear random waves propagating over a steady uniform current in finite water depth, the joint statistical distribution of the velocity and acceleration of the fluid particle in the current direction is derived using the characteristic function expansion method. From the joint distribution and the Morison equation, the theoretical distributions of drag forces, inertia forces and total random forces caused by waves propagating over a steady uniform current are determined. The distribution of inertia forces is Gaussian as that derived using the linear wave model, whereas the distributions of drag forces and total random forces deviate slightly from those derived utilizing the linear wave model. The distributions presented can be determined by the wave number spectrum of ocean waves, current speed and the second order wave–wave and wave–current interactions. As an illustrative example, for fully developed deep ocean waves, the parameters appeared in the distributions near still water level are calculated for various wind speeds and current speeds by using Donelan–Pierson–Banner spectrum and the effects of the current and the nonlinearity of ocean waves on the distribution are studied. 相似文献
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Microwave remote sensing is one of the most useful methods for observing the ocean parameters. The Doppler frequency or interferometric phase of the radar echoes can be used for an ocean surface current speed retrieval,which is widely used in spaceborne and airborne radars. While the effect of the ocean currents and waves is interactional. It is impossible to retrieve the ocean surface current speed from Doppler frequency shift directly. In order to study the relationship between the ocean surface current speed and the Doppler frequency shift, a numerical ocean surface Doppler spectrum model is established and validated with a reference. The input parameters of ocean Doppler spectrum include an ocean wave elevation model, a directional distribution function, and wind speed and direction. The suitable ocean wave elevation spectrum and the directional distribution function are selected by comparing the ocean Doppler spectrum in C band with an empirical geophysical model function(CDOP). What is more, the error sensitivities of ocean surface current speed to the wind speed and direction are analyzed. All these simulations are in Ku band. The simulation results show that the ocean surface current speed error is sensitive to the wind speed and direction errors. With VV polarization, the ocean surface current speed error is about 0.15 m/s when the wind speed error is 2 m/s, and the ocean surface current speed error is smaller than 0.3 m/s when the wind direction error is within 20° in the cross wind direction. 相似文献
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再谈海冰边缘区域中尺度涡旋形成机制——非线性平流 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
利用三维海洋模式与二维海冰模式耦合,研究海冰边缘区域中尺度涡旋形成最重要的机制之一——非线性平流机制。二维海洋模型模拟结果表明,非线性平流机制在水深比较浅的时候更加重要。不同于把海洋考虑成一个正压流体的二维模型,三维海洋模型中海冰通过海-冰相互作用直接影响海洋表层。我们发现在三维海洋模型实验中,中尺度涡旋和海洋表面抬升都对水深变化敏感。海流速度的垂直结构表面,当海水变浅,各层海流都变得更快。相同风应力作用相同时间之后,表面抬升与海水深度成反比关系。同时我们还发现由于垂直运动,在三维海洋模型实验结果中,海面抬升非常小,只有二维海洋模型实验结果的1%。垂直运动是三维海洋模型和二维海洋模型实验结果不同的根本原因。 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2004,50(4):169-179
Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied. 相似文献
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Surface waves are the roughness element of the ocean surface. The parameterization of the drag coefficient of the ocean surface is simplified by referencing to wind speed at an elevation proportional to the characteristic wavelength. The dynamic roughness is analytically related to the drag coefficient. Under the assumption of fetch limited wave growth condition, various empirical functions of the dynamic roughness can be converted to equivalent expressions for comparison. For datasets covering a wide range of the dimensionless frequency (inverse wave age), it is important to account for the variable rate of wave development at different wave ages. As a result, the dependence of the Charnock parameter on wave age is nonmonotonic. Finally, the analysis presented here suggests that the significant wave steepness is a sensitive property of the ocean surface and a single variable normalization of the dynamic roughness using a wavelength or wave height parameter actually produces more robust functions than bi-variable normalizations using wave height and wave slope. 相似文献
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Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in tinite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth-integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all detemained by the water depth and the wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated. 相似文献
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以某122 m自升式钻井平台为分析对象,建立其有限元模型,包括材料非线性、几何非线性以及桩土非线性相互作用,在风浪流作用下,基于三维约束New Wave理论对自升式钻井平台的动态响应进行分析,研究海洋波浪方向传播特性和随机特性对平台动力响应的影响。在建立模型中实现风暴工况下水面高程和水粒子运动的描述,响应结果按甲板位移进行对比。结果表明,相比其它波浪理论,三维约束New Wave理论在平台动力响应分析中体现了一定的优越性,不仅能较准确地反映波浪的真实特性,而且能确保结构性能评估的安全性和合理性。 相似文献
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Statistical analysis of nonlinear random waves is important in coastal and ocean engineering. One approach for modeling nonlinear waves is second-order random wave theory, which involves sum- and difference-frequency interactions between wave components. The probability distribution of the non-Gaussian surface elevation can be solved using a technique developed by Kac and Siegert [21]. The wave field can be significantly modified by wave diffraction due to a structure, and the nonlinear diffracted wave elevation can be of interest in certain applications, such as the airgap prediction for an offshore structure. This paper investigates the wave statistics due to second-order diffraction, motivated by the scarcity of prior research. The crossing rate approach is used to evaluate the extreme wave elevation over a specified duration. The application is a bottom-supported cylindrical structure, for which semi-analytical solutions for the second-order transfer functions are available. A new efficient statistical method is developed to allow the distribution of the diffracted wave elevation to be obtained exactly, accounting for the statistical dependency between the linear, sum-frequency and difference-frequency components. Moreover, refinements are proposed to improve the efficiency for computing the free surface integral. The case study yields insights into the problem. In particular, the second-order nonlinearity is found to significantly amplify the extreme wave elevation, especially in the upstream region; conversely, the extreme elevation at an oblique location downstream is attenuated due to sheltering effects. The statistical dependency between the linear and sum-frequency components is also shown to be important for the extreme wave statistics. 相似文献