共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 109 毫秒
1.
Numerical Simulation of Spatial Lag Between Wave Breaking Point and Location of Maximum Wave-Induced Current 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point.The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction.The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress.An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy.The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation.Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance.The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward. 相似文献
2.
In this paper, a hybrid scheme based on a set of 2DH extended Boussinesq equations for slowly varying bathymetries is introduced. The numerical code combines the finite volume technique, applied to solve the advective part of the equations, with the finite difference method, used to discretize dispersive and source terms. Time integration is performed using the fourth-order Adams–Bashforth–Moulton predictor–corrector method; the Riemann problem is solved employing an approximate HLL solver, a fourth-order MUSCL-TVD technique is applied. Five test cases, for non-breaking and breaking waves, are reproduced to verify the model comparing its results to laboratory data or analytical solutions. 相似文献
3.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,37(2):97-122
In this paper, a numerical model based on the improved Boussinesq equations derived by Beji and Nadaoka [Beji, S., Nadaoka, K., 1996. A formal derivation and numerical modeling of the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth. Ocean Eng. 23 (8), 691–704] is presented. The finite element method is used to discretize the spatial derivatives. Quadrilateral elements with linear interpolating functions are employed for the two horizontal velocity components and the water surface elevation. The time integration is performed using the Adams–Bashforth–Moulton predictor–corrector method. Five test cases for which either theoretical solutions or laboratory results are available are employed to test the proposed scheme. The model is capable of giving satisfactory predictions in all cases. 相似文献
4.
In this paper we propose an integral form of the fully non-linear Boussinesq equations in contravariant formulation, in which Christoffel symbols are avoided, in order to simulate wave transformation phenomena, wave breaking and nearshore currents in computational domains representing the complex morphology of real coastal regions. Following the approach proposed by Chen (2006), the motion equations retain the term related to the approximation to the second order of the vertical vorticity. A new Upwind Weighted Essentially Non-Oscillatory scheme for the solution of the fully non-linear Boussinesq equations on generalised curvilinear coordinate systems is proposed. The equations are rearranged in order to solve them by a high resolution hybrid finite volume–finite difference scheme. The conservative part of the above-mentioned equations, consisting of the convective terms and the terms related to the free surface elevation, is discretised by a high-order shock-capturing finite volume scheme in which an exact Riemann solver is involved; dispersive terms and the term related to the approximation to the second order of the vertical vorticity are discretised by a cell-centred finite difference scheme. The shock-capturing method makes it possible to intrinsically model the wave breaking, therefore no additional terms are needed to take into account the breaking related energy dissipation in the surf zone. The model is verified against several benchmark tests, and the results are compared with experimental, theoretical and alternative numerical solutions. 相似文献
5.
利用一维Boussinesq方程描述了在浅水中的波浪运动以及破碎情况。在方程中引入了表面翻滚的概念，认为翻滚的水体是以波速运动的，翻滚的作用表现在水平速度的垂直分布上，产生了附加迁移动量项。通过对Airy波在浅水中运动以及破碎情况的研究，得出的一些结论与Schaeffer和合田的成果吻合良好。 相似文献
6.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(7):557-579
In this paper, a Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) model was developed to simulate the vortex generation and dissipation caused by progressive waves passing over impermeable submerged double breakwaters. The dynamics of the turbulence are described by introducing a k–ɛ model with Boussinesq closure. The Height Function (HF) is implemented to define the free-surface configuration. The governing equations are discretized by means of a finite volume method based on a staggered grid system with variable width and height. The feasibility of the numerical model was verified through a series of comparisons of numerical results with the existing analytical solutions and the experimental data. The good agreements demonstrate the satisfactory performance of the developed numerical model. The flow separation mechanism both near the upstream and the downstream edges of the obstacles demonstrates the physical and expected nature of development of the flow. The present model provides an accurate and efficient tool for the simulation of flow field and wave transformation near coastal structures without breaking. 相似文献
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Finite volume scheme for the solution of 2D extended Boussinesq equations in the surf zone 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
In this paper, a hybrid finite volume-finite difference scheme is applied to study surf zone dynamics. The numerical model solves the 2DH extended Boussinesq equations proposed by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) where nonlinear and dispersive effects are both relevant whereas it solves NSWE equations where nonlinearity prevails. The shock-capturing features of the finite volume method allow an intrinsic representation of wave breaking and runup; therefore no empirical (calibration) parameters are necessary. Comparison with laboratory measurements demonstrates that the proposed model can accurately predict wave height decay and mean water level setup, for both regular and solitary wave breaking on a sloping beach. The model is also applied to reproduce two-dimensional wave transformation and breaking over a submerged circular shoal, showing good agreement with experimental data. 相似文献
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A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
12.
A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water. 相似文献
13.
近岸波浪折射-绕射-破波耗散联合模式的有限元数值研究 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
建立了近岸波浪折射-绕射-破波耗散的有限元数值模式。采用的有限元方法为改进的混合元法,其中外域开边界条件得到改进,内域有限元为伽廖金有限元。用理论解检验了所建立的数值模式,并将该模式应用到一个模型港湾。 相似文献
14.
The interaction of a solitary wave with an array of surface-piercing vertical circular cylinders is investigated numerically. The wave motion is modeled by a set of generalized Boussinesq equations. The governing equations are discretized using a finite element method. The numerical model is validated against the experimental data of solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall and solitary wave scattering by a vertical circular cylinder respectively. The predicted wave surface elevation and the wave forces on the cylinder agree well with the experimental data. The numerical model is then employed to study solitary wave scattering by arrays of two circular cylinders and four circular cylinders respectively. The effect of wave direction on the wave forces and the wave runup on the cylinders is quantified. 相似文献
15.
We present the derivation of the discrete Euler–Lagrange equations for an inverse spectral element ocean model based on the shallow water equations. We show that the discrete Euler–Lagrange equations can be obtained from the continuous Euler–Lagrange equations by using a correct combination of the weak and the strong forms of derivatives in the Galerkin integrals, and by changing the order with which elemental assembly and mass averaging are applied in the forward and in the adjoint systems. Our derivation can be extended to obtain an adjoint for any Galerkin finite element and spectral element system.We begin the derivations using a linear wave equation in one dimension. We then apply our technique to a two-dimensional shallow water ocean model and test it on a classic double-gyre problem. The spectral element forward and adjoint ocean models can be used in a variety of inverse applications, ranging from traditional data assimilation and parameter estimation, to the less traditional model sensitivity and stability analyses, and ensemble prediction. Here the Euler–Lagrange equations are solved by an indirect representer algorithm. 相似文献
16.
A hybrid finite-volume and finite-difference method is proposed for numerically solving the two-dimensional (2D) extended Boussinesq equations. The governing equations are written in such a way that the convective flux is approximated using finite volume (FV) method while the remaining terms are discretized using finite difference (FD) method. Multi-stage (MUSTA) scheme, instead of commonly used HLL or Roe schemes, is adopted to evaluate the convective flux as it has the simplicity of centred scheme and accuracy of upwind scheme. The third order Runge–Kutta method is used for time marching. Wave breaking and wet–dry interface are also treated in the model. In addition to model validation, the emphasis is given to compare the merits and limitations of using MUSTA scheme and HLL scheme in the model. The analytical and experimental data available in the literature have been used for the assessment. Numerical tests demonstrate that the developed model has the advantages of stability preserving, shock-capturing and numerical efficiency when applied in the complex nearshore region. Compared with that using HLL scheme, the proposed model has comparable numerical accuracy, but requires slightly less computation time and is much simpler to code. 相似文献
17.
1994年发生在台湾海峡的一次地震海啸的数值模拟 总被引：19，自引：0，他引：19
建立了一个地震海啸数值模式,模式包含越洋海啸传播部分和近岸海啸变形部分,在越洋海啸传播部分中采用线性浅水方程,使用蛙跃格式求解,并且选择合适的空间步长与时间步长,使差分格式中产生的数值频散与包辛尼斯克方程中的物理频散一致,这样在不影响海啸数值计算精度的前提下,节省了计算机的机时与内存.在近岸海啸变形部分的计算中,考虑了非线性对流项与海底摩擦项.同时该模式采用了多重网格嵌套技术,提高了所关心地区的计算精度.利用这个地震海啸模式模拟了1994年发生在台湾海峡的一次地震海啸,结果与观测记录较吻合.这个模型已用于我国沿海核电站可能最大地震海啸的数值计算. 相似文献
18.
A temporally second-order accurate Godunov-type scheme for solving the extended Boussinesq equations
A numerical scheme for solving the class of extended Boussinesq equations is presented. Unlike previous schemes, where the governing equations are integrated through time using a fourth-order method, a second-order Godunov-type scheme is used thus saving storage and computational resources. The spatial derivatives are discretised using a combination of finite-volume and finite-difference methods. A fourth-order MUSCL reconstruction technique is used to compute the values at the cell interfaces for use in the local Riemann problems, whilst the bed source and dispersion terms are discretised using centred finite-differences of up to fourth-order accuracy. Numerical results show that the class of extended Boussinesq equations can be accurately solved without the need for a fourth-order time discretisation, thus improving the computational speed of Boussinesq-type numerical models. The numerical scheme has been applied to model a number of standard test cases for the extended Boussinesq equations and comparisons made to physical wave flume experiments. 相似文献
19.
Presented here is a compact explicit difference scheme of high accuracy for solving the extended Boussinesq equations.For time discretization,a three-stage explicit Runge-Kutta method with TVD property is used at predicting stage,a cubic spline function is adopted at correcting stage,which made the time discretization accuracy up to fourth order;For spatial discretization,a three-point explicit compact difference scheme with arbitrary order accuracy is employed.The extended Boussinesq equations derived by Beji and Nadaoka are solved by the proposed scheme.The numerical results agree well with the experimental data.At the same time,the comparisons of the two numerical results between the present scheme and low accuracy difference method are made,which further show the necessity of using high accuracy scheme to solve the extended Boussinesq equations.As a valid sample,the wave propagation on the rectangular step is formulated by the present scheme,the modelled results are in better agreement with the experimental data than those of Kittitanasuan. 相似文献
20.
Numerical modeling of nonlinear resonance of semi-enclosed water bodies: Description and experimental validation 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Inigo J. Losada Jose M. Gonzalez-Ondina Gabriel Diaz-HernandezErnesto M. Gonzalez 《Coastal Engineering》2008
The purpose of this work is to a present a numerical model to solve a set of modified Boussinesq equations to analyse nonlinear resonance of semi-enclosed water bodies. The equations are solved on a finite element unstructured grid in order to achieve an optimal mesh resolution with the local geometry. The model is able to simulate long time lapses and realistic forcing in real bathymetries with a reasonable computational cost. To validate the numerical results, a set of experiments was carried out in a physical model of two adjacent elongated basins. Comparisons between numerical and experimental results for different geometries and nonlinear conditions show that the model is able to simulate with an excellent agreement the transient nonlinear resonant process. 相似文献