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1.
Some authors have developed a few methods of measuring wave slopes based on light refraction, including the measurement method via the distribution of light intensity or color under water. A new method based on light refraction is specified for the measurement of wave surface elevation in wave flume via imaging technology. A plane painted with black and white stripes is put on the flume floor as an indication plane, which can be arranged easily and cheaply. Compared with the previous methods, the present method is less sensitive to the noise and nonlinear effects of optical process, which can be taken as a digital method. The CCD camera is fixed above the flume with its optical axis arranged vertically to grab the images of stripes modulated by the wave surface. The modulated value can be calculated from the Hilbert transform, and then the wave surface elevation can be obtained. The algorithm and experimental procedure are specified in detail, and some experimental results are provided to show the validity of the present method.  相似文献   

2.
The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given.  相似文献   

3.
A number of different methods for the 3D measurement of the water surface in wave fields have been proposed in the literature, based mostly on refraction, photogrammetry and/or reflected light intensity. Although these methods can map the distorted water surface, they appear to be difficult in practical applications in hydraulic engineering laboratories. A novel wave mapping technique using particle image velocimetry to measure surface flow velocities, and linear wave theory to determine wave heights from the measured velocities, has been developed and validated for regular waves. The method allows for the mapping even of complex wave fields with simple means and appears robust enough for application in the laboratory.  相似文献   

4.
准确确定越浪量对于斜坡堤设计有重要意义。利用格子Boltzmann方法(LBM),并采用主动吸收式速度入口造波、出流边界消波、VOF方法追踪自由表面以及静态Smagorinsky模型模拟紊流运动,建立二维数值波浪水槽,对光滑斜坡堤上规则波与不规则波越浪进行数值模拟。模拟结果与试验值及其他数值模型结果比较表明,二维LBM数值波浪水槽具有模拟斜坡堤越浪的能力,但对于破碎较为剧烈的越浪过程模拟,该模型还存在一定的不足,未来可从提高自由表面模型精度等方面进一步改善其性能。  相似文献   

5.
The "surface roller" to simulate wave energy dissipation of wave breaking is introduced into the random wave model based on approximate parabolic mild slope equation in this paper to simulate the random wave transportation including diffraction, refraction and breaking in nearshore areas. The roller breaking random wave higher-order approximate parabolic equation model has been verified by the existing experimental data for a plane slope beach and a circular shoal, and the numerical results of random wave breaking model agree with the experimental data very well. This model can be applied to calculate random wave propagation from deep to shallow water in large areas near the shore over natu ral topography.  相似文献   

6.
极限波浪运动特性的非线性数值模拟   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1       下载免费PDF全文
宁德志  滕斌  姜立明  臧军 《海洋学报》2008,30(3):126-132
利用时域高阶边界元方法建立了模拟极限波浪运动的完全非线性数值模型,其中自由水面满足完全非线性自由水面条件.采用半混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法追踪流体瞬时水面,运用四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新下一时间步的波面和速度势,同时应用镜像格林函数消除水槽两个侧面和底面上的积分.研究中利用波浪聚焦的方法产生极限波浪,并且在水槽中开展了物理模型实验,将测点试验数据与数值结果进行了对比,两者吻合得很好.对极限波浪运动的非线性和流域内速度分布进行了研究.  相似文献   

7.
A semi-implicit shallow-water and Boussinesq model has been developed to account for random wave breaking, impact and overtopping of steep sea walls including recurves. At a given time breaking is said to occur if the wave height to water depth ratio for each individual wave exceeds a critical value of 0.6 and the Boussinesq terms are simply switched off. The example is presented of waves breaking over an offshore reef and then ceasing to break as they propagate inshore into deeper water and finally break as they run up a slope. This is not possible with the conventional criterion of a single onset of breaking based on rate of change of surface elevation which was also found to be less effective generally. The runup distribution on the slope inshore of the reef was well predicted. The model is tested against field data for overtopping available for Anchorsholme, Blackpool and corresponding 1:15 scale wave flume tests. Reflection of breaking waves impacting a steep sea wall is represented as a partial reversal of momentum flux with an empirically defined coefficient. Offshore to nearshore significant wave height variation was reasonably predicted although nearshore model spectra showed distinct differences from the experiments. The breaking wave shape described by a shape parameter was also not well represented as might be expected for such a simple model. Overtopping agreement between model, field and flume was generally good although repeatability of two nominally identical flume experiments was only within 25%. Different distributions of random phase between spectral components can cause overall overtopping rates to differ by up to a factor of two. Predictions of mean discharge by EurOtop methods were within a factor of two of experimental measurements.  相似文献   

8.
This paper presents a laboratory technique for measurement of reflected waves by a submerged horizontal plate. A simple method is proposed to decompose the composite wave record obtained from the wave reflection experiments in the wave flume. The data collected were used to compute the reflected wave height by means of two and three probe methods proposed by other investigators and compared with the directly computed reflected wave using the measured incident wave. The experiment was carried out for a horizontal plate of 1 m length spanning the full width of the flume with wave periods ranging from 0.8 to 1.8 sec with 0.1 sec increments and wave heights of 5, 10 and 15 cm. The methods using two and three probes with phase measurement yield better results than the three probe method without phase measurement, and in general they have a wider range of application. The method using three probes without the phase measurement generally fails due to numerical instability of the scheme. The results obtained by the proposed method are compared with the two and three probe methods and a comparative analysis of the four methods is presented and discussed.  相似文献   

9.
孤立波与带窄缝双箱相互作用模拟研究   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0  
针对孤立波与带窄缝双箱的作用问题,应用时域高阶边界元方法建立了二维数值水槽。其中,自由水面满足完全非线性运动学和动力学边界条件,对瞬时自由表面流体质点采用混合欧拉-拉格朗日法追踪,采用四阶龙格库塔法对下一时刻的自由水面的速度势和波面升高进行更新。采用加速度势法求解物体湿表面的瞬时波浪力。采用推板方法生成孤立波。通过模拟孤立波在直墙上的爬高以及施加在直墙上的波浪力,并与已发表的实验和数值结果对比,验证本数值模型的准确性。通过数值模拟计算研究了窄缝宽度、方箱尺寸对波浪在箱体迎浪侧爬高,窄缝内波面升高,箱体背浪侧透射波高及箱体受波浪荷载的影响。同时研究了有一定时间间隔的双孤立波与带窄缝双箱系统作用问题。  相似文献   

10.
A new measurement system for laboratory wave flumes is presented, based on the analysis of digital images by means of computer vision techniques. Unlike conventional wave gauges, the system detects the motions of the free surface along the flume section of interest as opposed to a point. A further advantage lies in that no sensors are necessary within the flume. The system is particularly useful in the case of wave flume tests of floating bodies, such as an oil boom—the motions of the model boom are measured without any sensors in contact with it, which otherwise might place constraints on its displacements. The new method is validated based on free surface measurements carried out with a conventional wave gauge, with excellent results.  相似文献   

11.
基于光滑质点流体动力学方法数值波浪水槽研究   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
基于光滑质点流体动力学(smoothed particle hydrodynamics,简称SPH)方法建立二维数值波浪水槽,利用推波板造波生成孤立波和不规则波,模拟结果跟实验值及解析解做了对比分析,结果令人满意.SPH数值水槽中生成的波浪具有明显的非线性,波浪能量沿程有所衰减,与物理水槽结果吻合良好.  相似文献   

12.
1.IntroductionGreat progress has been madeinthe statistics of sea waves based onthe envelopetheory of Gaus-sian processes.Longuet-Higgins(1975,1983)first obtainedthe joint probability distributionfunction(PDF)of wave heights and periods.His work was exten…  相似文献   

13.
Analytic solution of long wave propagation over a submerged hump   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
A new analytical solution of the long wave refraction by a submerged circular hump is presented. The geometry of the hump is assumed to be axisymmetric and be described by a power function in the radial direction with arbitrary values of both the exponent and the scaling factor. The submergence of the hump is also variable. The water surface elevation governed by the long wave version of the mild slope wave equation is solved by separation of variables, and a series solution of the Frobenius type is obtained. The solution is shown to be valid when the hump is sufficiently submerged or is of a relatively small height. Matching method is employed to illustrate the refraction of long waves under given conditions of incidence. Effects of the shape, the scale, and the submergence of the hump on wave refraction are discussed.  相似文献   

14.
Based on the filtered Navier-Stokes equations and Smagorinsky turbulence model,a numerical wave flume is developed to investigate the overtopping process of irregular waves over smooth sea dikes.Simulations of fully nonlinear standing wave and regular wave’s run-up on a sea dike are carried out to validate the implementation of the numerical wave flume with wave generation and absorbing modules.To model stationary ergodic stochastic processes,several cases with different random seeds are computed for each specified irregular wave spectrum.It turns out that the statistical mean overtopping discharge shows good agreement with empirical formulas,other numerical results and experimental data.  相似文献   

15.
Several control methods of wave energy converters (WECs) need prediction in the future of wave surface elevation. Prediction of wave surface elevation can be performed using measurements of surface elevation at a location ahead of the controlled WEC in the upcoming wave. Artificial neural network (ANN) is a robust data-learning tool, and is proposed in this study to predict the surface elevation at the WEC location using measurements of wave elevation at ahead located sensor (a wave rider buoy). The nonlinear autoregressive with exogenous input network (NARX NN) is utilized in this study as the prediction method. Simulations show promising results for predicting the wave surface elevation. Challenges of using real measurements data are also discussed in this paper.  相似文献   

16.
The form of Boussinesq equation derived by Nwogu (1993) using velocity at an arbitrary distance and surface elevation as variables is used to simulate wave surface elevation changes. In the numerical experiment, water depth was divided into five layers with six layer interfaces to simulate velocity at each layer interface. Besides, a physical experiment was carried out to validate numerical model and study solitary wave propagation.“Water column collapsing”method (WCCM) was used to generate solitary wave. A series of wave gauges around an impervious breakwater were set-up in the flume to measure the solitary wave shoaling, run-up, and breaking processes. The results show that the measured data and simulated data are in good agreement. Moreover, simulated and measured surface elevations were analyzed by the wavelet transform method. It shows that different wave frequencies stratified in the wavelet amplitude spectrum. Finally, horizontal and vertical velocities of each layer interface were analyzed in the process of solitary wave propagation through submerged breakwater.  相似文献   

17.
This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug' s model (1995). The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate.  相似文献   

18.
基于光学遥感图像的内孤立波参数反演是一项重要的工作。本文在实验室条件下提出一种新方法用于模拟光滑表面情况下内孤立波的光学遥感成像。基于二维内波水槽、LED平板面光源和CCD相机搭建仿真光学遥感系统探测内孤立波。水平表面的光学遥感图像和垂向内孤立波传播图像被同时探测,旨在探讨在光滑表面下,光学遥感与内孤立波的响应。结果表明,内孤立波传播经过时,CCD1相机获得暗纹,暗纹的特性随光源入射角的变化而变化。光学遥感特征参数和垂向波要素相对应。实验还显示光学遥感图像的暗纹宽度与内孤立波的半波宽度在不同内孤立波振幅下呈现正相关关系。该系统有着现象清晰,重复性高的优点,为定量研究光学遥感成像机理提供科学依据。  相似文献   

19.
In this work, the large-wave simulation (LWS) method is adapted for application in spilling wave breaking over a constant slope beach. According to LWS, large scales of velocities, pressure and free-surface elevation are numerically resolved, while the corresponding unresolved scale effects are taken into consideration by a subgrid scale (SGS) model for wave and eddy stresses. The model may be not fully applicable in very shallow water, close to the shoreline, where the unresolved, turbulent, free-surface oscillation is of the same order with the water depth. Time integration of the Euler equations is achieved by a two-stage fractional scheme, combined with a hybrid scheme for spatial discretization, consisting of finite difference and pseudospectral approximation methods. Model parameters are calibrated by comparison to available experimental data of free-surface elevation and velocities in the surf zone for cross-shore incoming waves. The action of the wave SGS stresses in the outer coastal and surf zones initiates breaking and generates appropriate vorticity, in the form of an eddy structure (surface roller), at the breaking wavefront. At incipient breaking, both advection and gravity contribute to the vorticity flux at the free surface, while only after the full development of the surface roller, the effect of advection becomes stronger. The SGS model is also utilized to simulate propagation, refraction and breaking of oblique incoming waves. The gradual breaking and dissipation of wave crestlines and the surface roller structure along the breaking wavefront are automatically captured without any empirical input, such as data for the roller shape or the wave propagation angle at breaking.  相似文献   

20.
This is an experimental study of the acoustic method of surface-wave excitation using an underwater source of high-frequency (950 kHz) sound. The surface waves are excited at the sound-beam modulation frequency (3–55 Hz). For a normal fall onto the free surface, the modulated sound beam efficiently generates waves in the gravity-capillary range. This provides flexible electronic control of the main wave parameters (frequency and amplitude) in the packet and continuous modes. The amplitude-frequency characteristics of the process of surface-wave generation were obtained by numerical calculations (based on equations for the rate of acoustic flux and propagation of gravity-capillary surface waves) and by experiments (based on surface wave measurements by optical and contact methods). Both values are very consistent: on the background of a similar monotonic attenuation with frequency, they have a local dip near the minimum of the phase velocity and oscillation in the frequency range above 20 Hz. The experiments on the excitation of wave packets by single acoustic messages with varying lengths and powers, as well as by falling water drops, indicated that, in all cases, the phase characteristics are satisfactorily consistent with one another and the time needed for the signal to arrive at the measurement point is determined by the group velocity.  相似文献   

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