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1.
Historically, Crescent City is one of the most vulnerable communities impacted by tsunamis along the west coast of the United States, largely attributed to its offshore geography. Trans-ocean tsunamis usually produce large wave runup at Crescent Harbor resulting in catastrophic damages, property loss and human death. How to determine the return values of tsunami height using relatively short-term observation data is of great significance to assess the tsunami hazards and improve engineering design along the coast of Crescent City. In the present study, the extreme tsunami heights observed along the coast of Crescent City from 1938 to 2015 are fitted using six different probabilistic distributions, namely, the Gumbel distribution, the Weibull distribution, the maximum entropy distribution, the lognormal distribution, the generalized extreme value distribution and the generalized Pareto distribution. The maximum likelihood method is applied to estimate the parameters of all above distributions. Both Kolmogorov-Smirnov test and root mean square error method are utilized for goodness-of-fit test and the better fitting distribution is selected. Assuming that the occurrence frequency of tsunami in each year follows the Poisson distribution, the Poisson compound extreme value distribution can be used to fit the annual maximum tsunami amplitude, and then the point and interval estimations of return tsunami heights are calculated for structural design. The results show that the Poisson compound extreme value distribution fits tsunami heights very well and is suitable to determine the return tsunami heights for coastal disaster prevention. 相似文献
2.
An investigation has been carried out in the vicinity of the coastal villages of Kanyakumari District,India to decode the influence of coastal geomorphology on inundation degree and run-up level.Even though the tsunami waves approach the study area in different patterns,the consequences are found to be mainly dependent upon the coastal configuration and local geographic setting,the study area are considered to be of three types based upon the geomorphic arrangement,namely shallow coast,elevated coast and estuarine coast.The inundation and run-up level vary from coast to coast even though there is no remarkable variation in the intensity of the approaching tsunami surge.The inundation extent ranges from to 54 m to 413 m with maximum along estuarine coast and minimum along elevated coast.Estuarine coast recorded the maximum run-up level of about 6 m and the minimum of about 1 m along the elevated coast.The percentage of inundated area in the total coastal area varies between 19% to 10% along estuarine coast and elevated coast respectively.Inundation and run-up level cannot be appreciable in the inland along the elevated coast.The beaches of elevated coast are less affected whereas those of estuarine coast are highly affected.Inundation is limited in the elevated beaches along the study area. 相似文献
3.
Storm surge inundation is a major concern in marine hazard risk assessment during extreme weather conditions.In this study,a high-resolution coupled model(the ADVanced CIRCulation model+the Simulating WAves Nearshore model)was used to investigate the storm surge inundation in the southwestern Hangzhou Bay region during Typhoon Chan-hom in 2015.The simulated hydrodynamic processes(sea surface wave and storm tide)were validated with measured data from wave buoys and tide gauges,indicating that the overall performance of the model was satisfactory.The storm surge inundation in the coastal area was simulated for several idealized control experiments,including different wave effects(wave-enhanced wind stress,wave-enhanced bottom stress,and wave radiation stress).Dike overflowing cases with different dike heights and dike breaking cases with different dike breach lengths were considered in the simulation.The results highlight the necessity of incorporating wave effects in the accurate simulation of storm surge inundation.Dike height significantly influences the magnitude and phase of the maximum inundation area in the dike overflowing cases,and dike breach length is an important factor impacting the magnitude of the maximum inundation area in the dike breaking cases.This study may serve as a useful reference for accurate coastal inundation simulation and risk assessment. 相似文献
4.
海底地震引发的海啸灾害,对沿海国家和地区的影响是相关领域的研究热点。研究采用COMCOT海啸数值模拟模型,对可能发生在马尼拉海沟一次地震活动（Mw=9.0级）所引起的海啸过程进行了数值模拟,并研究了该海啸传播到海南岛和北部湾的过程及其特点,分析海啸波对这一地区可能造成的影响。研究发现,传播到北部湾地区的海啸波具有明显的非线性特征,海啸发生后2 h 10 min左右到达海南岛东海岸,首轮波高达2.1 m;随着湾内水深逐渐变浅,受制于海底摩阻,及海南岛的阻隔与缓冲作用,海啸到达广西壮族自治区南部沿海地区的时间,被推迟到距地震发生8 h后,海啸波高减小到0.4 m,海啸波能量大为衰减。研究结果表明,马尼拉海沟地震引发海啸,对海南岛东南部沿海影响较大,有成灾的可能性;而对广西壮族自治区南部沿海及北部湾地区的影响较弱,一般不会造成大的灾害。 相似文献
5.
In the design of wind turbine foundations for offshore wind farms, the wave load and run-up slamming on the supporting structure are the quantities that need to be considered. Because of a special arc transition, the interaction between the wave field and the composite bucket foundation(CBF) becomes complicated. In this study, the hydrodynamic characteristics, including wave pressure, load, upwelling, and run-up, around the arc transition of a CBF influenced by regular waves are investigated through physical tests at Shandong Provincial Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering, Ocean University of China. The distributions of the wave pressures and upwelling ratios around the CBF are described, and the relationship between the wave load and the wave parameters is discussed. New formulae based on the velocity stagnation head theory with linear wave theory and the second-order Stokes wave theory for wave kinematics are proposed to estimate the wave run-up. Moreover, the multiple regression method with nonlinear technology is employed to deduce an empirical formula for predicting run-up heights. Results show that the non-dimensional wave load increases with the increase in the values of the wave scattering parameter and relative wave height. The wave upwelling height is high in front of the CBF and has the lowest value at an angle of 135? with the incoming wave direction. The performance of the new formulae proposed in this study is compared using statistical indices to demonstrate that a good fit is obtained by the multiple regression method and the analytical model based on the velocity stagnation head theory is underdeveloped. 相似文献
6.
本文利用高频深源近震地震波形数据的R/Z比来获取沉积盆地速度结构,并以2011-05-10发生在黑龙江省与吉林省交界处(131.09°E,43.32°N)的M W5.7深源地震(深度554.9 km)为例,分析位于松辽盆地沉积层内部NECESSArray中的22个台站记录到的0.5~2 Hz数据,利用沉积盆地对地震波的到时延迟效应及P波和Ps转换波的振幅信息,通过对沉积盆地底部剪切波速度与厚度进行网格搜索获得松辽盆地的速度结构。结果显示,22个台站下方的沉积层顶部剪切波速度为0.1~1.0 km/s,且盆地边缘速度较大,盆地厚度为0~6.5 km,总体呈现内部大于边缘的状态。与已有结果相比,本文结果在沉积层边缘地带较符合实际趋势,表明利用高频近震深源Ps转换波的方法可以较好地获得沉积盆地内部的速度结构。 相似文献
7.
Shipboard X-band radar images acquired on 24 June 2009 are used to study nonlinear internal wave characteristics in the northeastern
South China Sea. The studied images show three nonlinear internal waves in a packet. A method based on the Radon Transform
technique is introduced to calculate internal wave parameters such as the direction of propagation and internal wave velocity
from backscatter images. Assuming that the ocean is a two-layer finite depth system, we can derive the mixed-layer depth by
applying the internal wave velocity to the mixed-layer depth formula. Results show reasonably good agreement with in-situ
thermistor chain and conductivity-temperature-depth data sets. 相似文献
8.
A distinct type of nonlinear internal-wave packet, with the largest internal solitary wave in the middle of the packet, was
regularly observed in the South China Sea during the Asian Seas International Acoustics Experiment in 2001. Data analysis
shows that the occurrence of the distinct internal wave packet is closely related with the occurrence of lower-high internal
tides; the internal tides are mixed in the experimental area and, thus, there is diurnal inequality between the heights of
two neighboring internal tides. Modeling of internal tides and internal solitary waves in a shoaling situation suggests that
this type of wave packet can be generated in the South China Sea by the large shoaling of internal solitary waves and internal
tides. Both the internal solitary waves and the internal tides come from the direction of Luzon Strait. The initial large
internal solitary waves contribute to the occurrence of the largest internal solitary wave in the middle of the packet and
the waves behind the largest internal solitary wave, while the shoaling internal tides bring about the nonlinear internal
waves in front of the largest internal solitary wave via interaction with the local shelf topography. 相似文献
9.
瑞雷波法已在研究地球内部结构、近地表地球物理工程和超声无损检测等领域中获得了广泛应用,尤其是近年来瑞雷波法作为近地表场地表征新兴领域的前沿技术已成为国际学术研究与应用的热点。对国内外近地表弹性介质瑞雷波勘探的主要研究成果与进展进行了综述,通过对瑞雷波勘探现有的研究成果和进展密切追踪发现当前近地表瑞雷波勘探主要基于水平地表弹性水平层状介质模型,利用单分量瑞雷波相速度频散曲线单目标反演获得一维横波速度剖面和相关岩土力学参数。但是,该方法也存在着现有瑞雷波频散曲线反演极易出现模式误识别、现有单分量单目标瑞雷波反演未充分利用多分量信息、现有瑞雷波相速度反演未充分利用群速度传播特性、现有瑞雷波反演未充分利用质点椭圆极化振动特性等挑战性学术难题和不足。基于上述问题,建议未来近地表弹性介质瑞雷波勘探重点研究方向应集中在进行多模式表面波全速度谱反演研究、多站多分量表面波相速度多目标全速度谱反演研究、单站多分量表面波群速度多目标全速度谱反演研究和单站多分量表面波椭圆极化振动特性多目标反演研究。由此构建新的近地表多分量瑞雷波多目标全速度谱反演理论,引领多分量瑞雷波多目标反演学科前沿,拓展现有单分量瑞雷波单目标反演理论范畴,推动多分量瑞雷波高精度实用勘探技术的发展。 相似文献
10.
针对传统海浪建模方法中存在海洋表面真实感差、计算复杂的问题,本文进行了基于光滑粒子流体动力学算法（SPH）与移动立方体算法（MC）相结合的海浪建模仿真研究。通过基于空间网格的粒子分配,建立了粒子群单向列表存储结构,在海浪粒子物理量计算时,实现了其光滑核半径内粒子群的快速检索,并基于拉格朗日流体控制方程,进行了海浪粒子受力分析及状态计算;在模拟海浪与环境障碍物碰撞时,将碰撞问题简化为粒子在一定时间段内所经过的路径与障碍物表面三角面片是否相交来进行判定,并假设粒子为理想刚体,采用改进的欧拉方法实现了粒子新位置的动态计算;为增强海浪流体模拟的真实感,在移动立方体节点密度动态计算基础上,依据确定的海浪表面密度阈值,耦合MC算法进行了海浪表面的动态提取,从而实现了海浪三维表面建模与动态演变仿真。通过模拟验证了该算法的时效性与可行性,可为海洋环境信息三维可视化提供一定的参考。 相似文献
11.
Transforming wave heights from offshore to the shoreline is the first step of any coastal engineering work. Wave breaking is analyzed to understand hydrodynamic conditions. For vertical breakwaters and sea walls, wave reflection is an important process that affects the determination of the wave height. Many of the design formulas presented in the literature depend on empirical studies based on the structures tested. In this study, the hydrodynamic conditions in front of a vertical wall with an overhanging horizontal cantilever slab with a foreshore slope of 1/20 are determined experimentally under regular wave conditions to assess the applicability of the formulas of Goda (2000) for predicting the nearshore wave height and breaker index equation (Goda, 2010). The selection of wave measurements used to determine the design wave height, the reflection coefficients, and wave breaking is also analyzed, and the reflection equations are derived from the dataset covering different breaker types. Small-scale tests show that the incident wave height is a good representative of the design wave height and that the values predicted by Goda are in good agreement with actual measurements. However, the predicted Hmax values are overestimated. In addition, the inception of the wave breaking point is postponed because of the reflection and/or turbulence left over from preceding waves, which is an effect of the vertical wall. At higher water levels, the effect of the vertical wall on the inception point becomes more significant. 相似文献
12.
《中国海洋湖沼学报》2019,(6)
Accurate estimation of wave uplift force is essential to the designs of reliable coastal and marine structures. We presents a series of laboratory work here on the impact of regular waves on horizontal panels, from which an empirical formula to estimate accurately the wave uplift force on panels is established. The laboratory measurements show that the wave uplift force depends mainly on the incident wave height, the wave period, the wave length, the panel width, and the clearance between the subsurface of the panel and the still water level. Among these factors, the impact of the panel width on uplift forces is relatively complicated. Result shows that the relative panel width(i.e., the ratio of panel width to wave length) plays a more important role in estimating the wave uplift force. Based on our comprehensive laboratory measurements, we further developed an empirical formula to compute wave uplift force on horizontal panels through dimensionless analysis. Compared with other empirical formulas, this formula uses dimensionless variables of clear physical meanings, thus can describe the interaction between waves and the panels in a better way. In addition, the efficiency of the formula to estimate wave uplift force on horizontal panels is verified against existing works. Therefore, the findings in this study shall be useful for understanding the mechanism of wave uplift force on horizontal panels and numerical model validation. 相似文献
13.
Depth inversion in coastal water based on SAR image of waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Wave-number spectrum technique is proposed to retrieve coastal water depths by means of Synthetic Aperture Radar （SAR） image of waves. Based on the general dispersion relation of ocean waves the wavelength changes of a surface wave over varying water depths can be derived from SAR. Approaching the analysis of SAR images of waves and using the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, this indirect technique of remote sensing bathymetry has been applied to a coastal region of Xiapu in Fujian Province, China. Results show that this technique is suitable for the coastal waters especially for the near-shore regions with variable water depths. 相似文献
14.
The knowledge of the wave-induced hydrodynamic loads on coastal dikes including their temporal and spatial resolution on the dike in combination with actual water levels is of crucial importance of any risk-based early warning system. As a basis for the assessment of the wave-induced hydrodynamic loads, an operational wave now-and forecast system is set up that consists of i) available field measurements from the federal and local authorities and ii) data from numerical simulation of waves in the German Bight using the SWAN wave model. In this study, results of the hindcast of deep water wave conditions during the winter storm on 5–6 December, 2013(German name ‘Xaver') are shown and compared with available measurements. Moreover field measurements of wave run-up from the local authorities at a sea dike on the German North Sea Island of Pellworm are presented and compared against calculated wave run-up using the Eur Otop(2016) approach. 相似文献
15.
Cuiping Kuang Yue Ma Binyu Wang Jueyi Sui Jie Gu Jianhui Liu Gang Lei 《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2018,17(6):1290-1300
Breakwaters can be used as artificial headlands in beach nourishment to mitigate coastal erosion. Longfengtou Beach, located on the southwest coast of Haitan Bay facing the Taiwan Strait on the northeast, suffers severe erosion, where the monsoon causes significant season hydrodynamic variations. Headland breakwaters are intended to be employed to mitigate coastal erosion. A 2D sediment transport model is established using MIKE21 based on current-wave coupling and calibrated by measured data. Summer and winter wave conditions are chosen as characteristic weak and strong waves respectively. The numerical results of suspended sediment concentration and seasonal morphological evolution are compared under the conditions with and without the headland breakwaters. Sediment transport in summer can be regarded as mainly determined by current field, while in winter wave effect is strong enough to change current field. The northern breakwater, nearly perpendicular to the ebb current direction, obstructs the currents and decreases velocity of the ebb currents, and confines the water carrying sediments within the protection area during the flood period. The southern breakwater also breaks the waves in advance and significantly reduces the hydrodynamic effects during the flood period and maintains high suspended sediment concentration in the protection area. In general, two headland breakwaters decrease the erosion near the beach and enlarge the deposition area, which play a significant role in prevention of sediment loss in nearshore area and mitigate coastal erosion. 相似文献
16.
《中国海洋湖沼学报》2019,(6)
The transport flux residue of surface waves plays an important role in a variety of ocean phenomena, for example, the change in sea surface temperature(SST) and upper mixed layer profile that were studied in a series of recent papers. In the previous studies, its effect was discussed rigorously and fragmented based on numerical modeling. Here we propose a relatively comprehensive and simplified exposition of the wave transport flux residue, and focus on its influence under typhoon conditions with strong background current. An analogue Reynolds Number is presented for tentative comparison with wave-generated turbulence mixing, especially in the coastal area. Numerical results indicate that both overwhelming dynamical mixing processes can remarkably change the coastal environment, and should not be ignored consciously for further marine hazards assessment. 相似文献
17.
Wave fi elds of the South China Sea(SCS) from 1976 to 2005 were simulated using WAVEWATCH III by inputting high-resolution reanalysis wind fi eld datasets assimilated from several meteorological data sources. Comparisons of wave heights between WAVEWATCH III and TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter and buoy data show a good agreement. Our results show seasonal variation of wave direction as follows: 1. During the summer monsoon(April–September), waves from south occur from April through September in the southern SCS region, which prevail taking about 40% of the time; 2. During the winter monsoon(December–March), waves from northeast prevail throughout the SCS for 56% of the period; 3. The dominant wave direction in SCS is NE. The seasonal variation of wave height H s in SCS shows that in spring, H s ≥1 m in the central SCS region and is less than 1 m in other areas. In summer, H s is higher than in spring. During September–November, infl uenced by tropical cyclones, H s is mostly higher than 1 m. East of Hainan Island, H s 2 m. In winter, H s reaches its maximum value infl uenced by the north-east monsoon, and heights over 2 m are found over a large part of SCS. Finally, we calculated the extreme wave parameters in SCS and found that the extreme wind speed and wave height for the 100-year return period for SCS peaked at 45 m/s and 19 m, respectively, SE of Hainan Island and decreased from north to south. 相似文献
18.
lareODUcrI0NThephenomenonofbreakingwavesintheoasnoocurswheneveramomentahiyhighcrestmecheSanunstablecondition.It0ccursintendtimhy,andtheoccurrencefre-qUencydePendsonthescastate.ManystudAshaddricaniedoutontheoccurmcefre-qUencyofbrmkingwavesindeepweter.0chiandTsai(l983),LongueHiggins(l975)andVanD0mandPamn(l975)nadstheptalictonofbrmkingwavesoccurrenceindeePwater,usingabaskingcriterionforindividualwavesbasedonthewavesmpness.ThecriterioncanbeexpmeedintennSofthewaVehdghtHandperiodTasH>PgT'(… 相似文献
19.
《中国海洋湖沼学报》2019,(6)
Sea ice disaster is one of the principal natural hazards that affect some coastal areas of China, and the formation of ice cover in a wave field has important characteristics. However, analysis of the mechanism in which waves affect the thermodynamic process of sea ice is lacking, and the influence of waves is not taken into consideration in numerical models of sea ice, largely because of a lack of simultaneous observations of waves and sea ice. Using observational data of the sea ice cycle in the coastal waters of Liaodong Bay(China), we analyzed the characteristics of hydrology, meteorology, and sea ice thickness during the formation of sea ice, and explored the changes in the interrelationships among heat fluxes, waves, and sea ice under actual sea conditions. The results could provide a decision-making support as a reference to the establishment and improvement of China's early warning system to sea ice disasters, and the protection of ice drilling operations and production platform safety. 相似文献
20.
《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2015,(6)
Wave pressure on the wet surface of a V-shaped floating breakwater in random seas is investigated. Considering the diffraction effect, the unit velocity potential caused by the single regular waves around the breakwater is solved using the finite-depth Green function and boundary element method, in which the Green function is solved by integral method. The Response-Amplitude Operator(RAO) of wave pressure is acquired according to the Longuet-Higgins' wave model and the linear Bernoulli equation. Furthermore, the wave pressure's response spectrum is calculated according to the wave spectrum by discretizing the frequency domain. The wave pressure's characteristic value corresponding to certain cumulative probability is determined according to the Rayleigh distribution of wave heights. The numerical results and field test results are compared, which indicates that the wave pressure calculated in random seas agrees with that of field measurements. It is found that the bigger angle between legs will cause the bigger pressure response, while the increase in leg length does not influence the pressure significantly. The pressure at the side of head sea is larger than that of back waves. When the incident wave angle changes from 0? to 90?, the pressure at the side of back waves decreases clearly, while at the side of head sea, the situation is more complicated and there seems no obvious tendency. The concentration of wave energy around low frequency(long wavelength) will induce bigger wave pressure, and more attention should be paid to this situation for the structure safety. 相似文献