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1.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(2):155-162
It is studied whether the mass transport or energy transport is the proper viewpoint for internally generating waves in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu [J. Waterw., Port, Coastal Ocean Eng. 119 (1993) 618–638]. Numerical solutions of the Boussinesq equations with the internal generation of sinusoidal waves show that the energy transport approach yields the required wave amplitude properly while the mass transport approach yields wave amplitude different from the required one by the ratio of phase velocity to energy velocity. The waves which pass through the wave generation point do not cause any numerical distortion while the incident waves are generated. The technique of internal generation of waves shows its capability of generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear sinusoidal waves. 相似文献
2.
The mass transport in a thin layer of non-Newtonian bed mud under surface waves is examined with a two-fluid Stokes boundary layer model. The mud is assumed to be a bi-viscous fluid, which tends to resist motion for small-applied stresses, but flows readily when the yield stress is exceeded. Asymptotic expansions suitable for shallow lluid layers are applied, and the second-order solutions for the mass transport induced by surface progressive waves are obtained numeri-cally. It is found that the stronger the non-Newtonian behavior of the mud, the more pronounced intermittency of the flow. Consequently, the mass transport velocity is diminished in magnitude, and can even become negative (i. e. , oppo-site to wave propagation) for a certain range of yield stress. 相似文献
3.
Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
T.E. Baldock J.A. Alsina I. Caceres D. Vicinanza P. Contestabile H. Power A. Sanchez-Arcilla 《Coastal Engineering》2011
New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux. 相似文献
4.
石岛地震台远震记录反演研究 总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7
利用石岛地震台的远震体波记录,采用旋转相关函数法和接收函数法分别反演了台站下方介质的各向异性特征和速度结构.(1)对震中距25°~35°且记录良好的5次地震的ScS震相,采用旋转相关函数法反演了岩石圈的剪切波分裂参数.对深源地震的反演结果表明,石岛地震台快波偏振方向为N94°E,这意味着西沙附近处于近东西向微偏南的拉张或地壳下方的地幔流方向为近东西微偏南,西沙地区地壳是过渡性的,其底部的驱动力主要来自与欧亚板块运动一致的物质流.快慢波时间延迟为1.3 s,估算各向异性层厚度为100 km左右.(2)对震中距20°~60°的9次远震P波波形三分向记录,采用接收函数法反演了地壳和上地幔的S波速度结构.反演结果表明,石岛地震台下方地壳分为3层:约5 km以上有一速度梯度带,S波速度从1.5 km/s逐渐增加到3.5 km/s,其间有若干小的分层;在5~16 km的平均速度为3.8 km/s左右,其间有若干小的分层;在16.0~26.5 km的速度为3.6 km/s左右,这是一个明显的低速层;莫霍面埋深为26.5 km,莫霍面以下平均速度为4.7 km/s,也有若干小的分层,尤其是在莫霍面之下有一个明显的低速层.根据转换波到时分析和速度剖面左右摆动现象,认为反演结果中的小分层可能是不真实的,但在16.0~26.5 km的低速层的真实程度还是较高的,表明下地壳具有一定的塑性. 相似文献
5.
This paper describes experiments on interfacial phenomena in a stratified shear flow having a sharp velocity shear at a density
interface. The interface was visualized in vertical cross-section using dye, and the flow pattern was traced using aluminum
powder. Two kinds of internal waves with different phase velocities and wave profiles were observed. They are here named p(positive)-waves
and n(negative)-waves, respectively. By means of a two-dimensional visualization technique, the following facts have been
confirmed regarding these waves. (1) The two kinds of waves propagate in the opposite direction relative to a system moving
with the mean velocity at the interface, and their dispersion relations approximately agree with the two solutions of interfacial
waves in a two-layer system of a linear basic shear flow. (2) The p-wave has sharp crests and flat troughs, and the n-wave
has the reverse of this. This difference in wave profile is due to the finite amplitude effect. (3) Phase velocity of each
wave lies within the range of the mean velocity profile, so that a critical layer exists and each wave has a “cat's eye” flow
pattern in the vicinity of the critical layer, when observed in a system moving with the phase velocity. Consequently, these
two waves are symmetrical with respect to the interface. The mechanisms of generation of these waves, and the entrainment
process are discussed. It is inferred that when the “cat's eye” flow pattern is distorted and a stagnation point approaches
the interface, entrainment in the form of a stretched wisp from the lower to the upper layer occurs for the p-wave, and from
the upper to the lower layer for the n-wave. 相似文献
6.
1 IntroductionThe temporary Shidao seismographic station,the farthest one from China s Mainland (except Tai-wan Province) supported by a national fundamentalresearch project for the study of the evolution ofcontinental margin, is located at Shidao island(… 相似文献
7.
The accuracy of several asymptotic series expansions for wave speed and particle velocity under the crest of a solitary wave (on a fluid at rest) up to maximum height is investigated. The very accurate numerical results of Williams (1985) are the measure for our comparisons. The results are based on a scaling of calculated properties of long periodic waves to the case of solitary waves.For wave speeds the classical Boussinesq–Rayleigh expression gives good agreement up to a relative wave height of, say, 0.3. An asymptotic fourth-order expression based on Fenton (1990) can be used up to a relative wave height of 0.7, whereas the corresponding fifth-order expression is slightly less accurate.The Eulerian particle velocity profile under the wave crest is examined using a cnoidal wave expression from Fenton (1990) in the limit of the solitary wave. For low waves a `consistent' (i.e. properly truncated) fifth-order expression and an `inconsistent' ditto both coincide with Williams' results. Beginning at medium high waves, the consistent expression surprisingly exhibits oscillations in the velocity profile, and the oscillations become stronger as the wave gets higher. The inconsistent expression, however, yields the same shape as Williams' profile, but is displaced parallel to this, resulting in slightly larger velocities. For high waves also the inconsistent expression begins to differ in shape from Williams' profile, and asymptotic theory fails. Only for low waves `lowest order theory' gives acceptable results. We show analytically that for the highest wave the particle velocity profile has a horizontal tangent at the water surface; this is corroborated by Williams' numerical results.We also study the particle velocity at the wave crest as a function of wave height. It is shown that the variation has a vertical tangent for the highest wave. Two fifth-order asymptotic series for this velocity, based on the wave speed through the Bernoulli equation, show very good agreement with Williams up to a relative wave height of about 0.6.It is finally shown that it is possible to produce very accurate rational-function approximations to Williams' results for the wave speed as well as for the particle velocity at the wave crest. 相似文献
8.
1 IntroductionIn coastal areas a ubiquitous phenomenon is theformation of ripples in the seabed. It is now widelyaccepted that the flow and sediment transport overseabed are vital in relation to erosion, surface wavedissipation and pollution dispersion et… 相似文献
9.
The paper presents a numerical method for calculating the particle trajectories of nonlinear gravity waves in deep water. Particle trajectories, mass-transport velocity and Lagrangian wave period can be accurately determined by the proposed method. The high success rate of the proposed method is examined by comparing the present results with those of (a) Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1986, 1987. Eulerian and Lagrangian aspects of surface waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 173, 683-707 and (b) Lagrangian moments and mass transport in Stokes waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 179, 547-555. It is shown that the dimensionless mass-transport velocity can exceed 10% for large waves, and the Lagrangian wave period is much larger than the Eulerian wave period for large waves. 相似文献
10.
Characteristics of turbulent boundary layers over a rough bed under saw-tooth waves and its application to sediment transport 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, ac expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found. 相似文献
11.
Free inertia-gravity internal waves are considered in a two-dimensional vertically nonuniform flow in the Boussinesq approximation. The equation for vertical velocity amplitude includes complex factors caused by the gradient of the flow velocity component transverse to the wave-propagation direction; therefore, the eigenfunction and wave frequency are complex. It is shown that the decrement of damping (imaginary correction to the frequency) of 15-min internal waves is two orders of magnitude smaller than the wave frequency; i.e., the waves weakly damp. Vertical wave fluxes of heat and salt are nonzero due to the phase shift between fluctuations of the vertical velocity and temperature (salinity) different from π 2. The vertical component of the Stokes drift speed is also nonzero and contributed into the vertical transport. 相似文献
12.
Internal inlet for wave generation and absorption treatment 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A new method of implementing, in two-dimensional (2-D) Navier–Stokes equations, a numerical internal wave generation in the finite volume formulation is developed. To our knowledge, the originality of this model is on the specification of an internal inlet velocity defined as a source line for the generation of linear and non-linear waves. The use of a single cell to represent the source line and its transformation to an internal boundary condition proved to be an interesting alternative to the common procedure of adding a mass source term to the continuity equation within a multi-cell rectangular region. Given the reduction of the source domain to a one-dimensional region, this simple new type of source introduced less perturbation than the 2-D source type. This model was successfully implemented in the PHOENICS code (Parabolic Hyperbolic Or Elliptic Numerical Integration Code Series). In addition, the volume of fluid (VOF) fraction was used to describe the free surface displacements. A friction force term was added to the momentum transport equation in the vertical direction, in order to enhance wave damping, within relatively limited number of cells representing the sponge layers at the open boundaries. For monochromatic wave, propagating on constant water depth, numerical and analytical results showed good agreements for free surface profiles and vertical distribution of velocity components. For solitary wave simulation, the wave shape and velocity were preserved; while, small discrepancy in the tailing edge of the free surface profiles was observed. The suitability of this new numerical wave generation model for a two source lines extension was investigated and proven to be innovative. The comparisons between numerical, analytical and experimental results showed that the height of the merging waves was correctly reproduced and that the reflected waves do not interact with the source lines. 相似文献
13.
在流体力学中,描述流体运动有Lagrange方法和Euler方法.Euler方法是通过观测通过空间各固定位置点处流体质点的运动行为来描述流体运动规律,而Lagrange方法是跟踪各个流体质点,通过观测它们在时空运动中所走过的路径来描述流体的运动规律.在数学处理上,Euler方法较Lagrange方法简单,但Lagrange方法可以完全描述流体运动的整个流场的所有特性,而Euler方法却无法描述每个流体质点的运动轨迹.本文,我们研究具有刚性边界的三层流体系统中的界面内波,其中上层流体的密度比下层流体的密度大.通过在界面处引入朗格朗日匹配条件并使用微扰法得到了拉格朗日描述下的界面内波的一阶解、二阶解及三阶解,给出了质量输运速度、波频率、平均水平和质点运动轨迹的解.结果表明对于质量输运速度、波频率、平均水平和质点运动轨迹在界面处会有不连续性,但是我们发现在满足一定的三层流体水深比和密度比条件时这种不连续性将会消失. 相似文献
14.
Solitary waves have been commonly used as an initial condition in the experimental and numerical modelling of tsunamis for decades. However, the main component of a tsunami waves acts at completely different spatial and temporal scales than solitary waves. Thus, use of solitary waves as approximation of a tsunami wave may not yield realistic model results, especially in the coastal region where the shoaling effect restrains the development of the tsunami wave. Alternatively, N-shaped waves may be used to give a more realistic approximation of the tsunami wave profile. Based on the superposition of the sech2(*) waves, the observed tsunami wave profile could be approximated with the N-shaped wave method, and this paper presents numerical simulation results based on the tsunami-like wave generated based on the observed tsunami wave profile measured in the Tohoku tsunami. This tsunami-like wave was numerically generated with an internal wave source method based on the two-phase incompressible flow model with a Volume of Fluid (VOF) method to capture the free surface, and a finite volume scheme was used to solve all the governing equations. The model is first validated for the case of a solitary wave propagating within a straight channel, by comparing its analytical solutions to model results. Further, model comparisons between the solitary and tsunami-like wave are then made for (a) the simulation of wave run-up on shore and (b) wave transport over breakwater. Comparisons show that use of these largely different waveform shapes as inputs produces significant differences in overall wave evolution, hydrodynamic load characteristics as well as velocity and vortex fields. Further, it was found that the solitary wave uses underestimated the total energy and hence underestimated the run-up distance. 相似文献
15.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(1):59-85
Simple theoretical models to determine the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves are presented. For the case of breaking waves, it is assumed that the seaward transport in the undertow is locally balanced by a net vertical sedimentation, so that no bottom changes occur at equilibrium. The parameterization of the water and sediment flux in the surf zone yields a power curve for the equilibrium profile with a power of 2/3, which is in agreement with previous field investigations on surf zone profile shapes. Three different models were developed to derive the profile shape under non-breaking waves, namely (1) a variational formulation where the wave energy dissipation in the bottom boundary layer is minimized over the part of the profile affected by non-breaking waves, (2) an integration of a small-scale sediment transport formula over a wave period where the slope conditions that yield zero net transport determine equilibrium, and (3) a conceptual formulation of mechanisms for onshore and offshore sediment transport where a balance between the mechanisms defines equilibrium conditions. All three models produced equilibrium profile shapes of power-type with the power typically in the range 0.15–0.30. Comparison with field data supported the results obtained indicating different powers for the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves. 相似文献
16.
为研究内孤立波质量源数值造波方法,本文采用两个点源形式的质量源,分别放置于两层流体的上下层中作为内孤立波激发源。推导源项表达式,从不可压缩流体的Navier-Stokes方程出发,结合内孤立波Kd V、e Kd V理论,基于商业软件FLUENT发展了一种内孤立波质量源数值造波方法。通过数值模拟,分析了质量源造波过程中内孤立波的生成过程,并将数值模拟结果同理论及实验作对比。结果表明:基于此方法生成的内孤立波波形、波高及波致水平速度与理论及实验吻合度较好,该方法是可行的,并且耗时短、效率高。 相似文献
17.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(3):171-195
A morphological stability analysis is carried out for a long straight coast with a longshore bar. The situation with oblique wave incidence and a wave-driven longshore current is considered. The flow and sediment transport are described by a numerical modelling system. The models comprise: (i) a wave model with depth refraction, shoaling and wave breaking, (ii) a depth integrated model for wave driven currents and (iii) a sediment transport model for the bed load transport and the suspended load transport in combined waves and current. The direction of the sediment transport is taken to be parallel to the depth integrated mean current velocity, neglecting the effects of a bed slope and secondary currents. An instability is found to develop around the bar crest. The instability is periodic in the alongshore direction, and tends to form rip channels and to steepen the offshore face of the bar between the rip channels. The alongshore wave length of the most unstable perturbation is determined for different combinations of the wave conditions and the geometry of the profile. 相似文献
18.
江苏大丰潮间带粉砂滩的潮流边界层特征 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
对江苏大丰潮间带粉砂滩的潮流观测数据，运用Karman-parndtl模型分析了流速对数剖面的出现频率和边界层参数（摩阻流速与粗糙长度）。结果表明，不同时间尺度（10^1-10^3s）的平均流速对计算u-lnz线性关系出现频率的影响不大，而不同层位组合的影响较为显著，影响流速对数剖面分布的自然因素为波浪、风、潮流旋转、表底层流向差异、滩面坡度和水流加减速等。相邻层位的流速在时间序列上存在很高的线性关系，回归直线的斜率与水层距底床的高度、粗糙长度和摩阻流速有关。涨潮阶段床面粗糙长度大于落潮阶段，涨潮阶段摩阻流速小于落潮阶段。 相似文献
19.
B.D. Dore 《Coastal Engineering》1982,6(2):93-120
The second approximation is obtained for the mass transport velocity within the oscillatory bottom boundary layer beneath sinusoidal progressive and standing waves of finite amplitude. This approximation includes a simple new term, which essentially ensures continuity of the vertical gradient of mass transport at the edge of the layer and is of third-order in the perturbation (or wave-slope) parameter. For long progressive waves in conditions of zero net mass flow, the term represents a moderate reduction in mass transport at the edge of the layer, compared with the first approximation of Longuet-Higgins. For standing waves of arbitrary length, the mass transport is reduced (increased) far from (near) the bottom, except near nodal locations where an increase (a reduction) is predicted. The proposed correction to the first approximation yields clearly improved results when compared with appropriate experimental evidence. Deficiencies in the higher-order theories of Sleath and Isaacson for propagating waves are disclosed. 相似文献
20.
沿岸流流速垂向分布的实验研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
进行了沿岸流模型实验,测量沿岸流流速的垂向分布.采用Faria等(1996)的方法对实验结果进行了分析,将水深分为上层和下层两部分:下层采用对数分布来表达沿岸流的垂向分布;上层考虑了波浪引起的自由表面的波动,使流速分布包括了修正的对数分布和质量输移速度两部分.对实验结果得到的相对粗糙度与sleath(1991)的经验公式结果进行了对比,也对摩阻流速结果与已有经验公式计算结果的进行了对比. 相似文献