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介绍采用谱分析原理提取海浪信息的方法。根据GPS浮标测量得到的海浪高度数据,先通过滑动平均的方法分离海浪信息和潮流潮位信息,然后对海浪信息采用AR模型法进行功率谱估计,并对海浪信息进行连续小波变换,对AR模型法功率谱估计结果和小波变换结果进行综合研究,提取海浪特征参数———周期。最后通过一个GPS浮标试验对上述方法进行了验证。 相似文献
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水下GPS定位是近几年发展起来的高新技术.承载GPS接收机的海上浮标由于受海浪的影响,使得GPS接收信号附加了海浪信息,最终影响到水下目标的精确定位.针对海浪影响水下GPS定位精度现状,提出基于样条函数的数据分频处理方法,从而有效地分离海浪引起的长周期性漂移误差和短周期性随机误差,提高水下GPS定位精度.通过对实测数据的处理,证明了该方法的有效性. 相似文献
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波浪谱分析是研究随机波浪、构建波浪模型、计算海浪要素的主要方法,也是海洋工程设计、波浪能应用研究等的重要依据。目前对于现场波浪数据的获取仅局限于波浪特征参数和部分频段数据,为了获取准确有效的波浪谱信息,提出微机电系统(Micro-Electro-Mechanical System,MEMS)和全球定位系统(Global Positioning System,GPS)测波传感器相结合的波浪谱数据获取方法以及利用北斗短报文数据传输的通信方式。综合考虑波浪谱数据特点和北斗短报文通信能力,波浪谱数据选用半精度数据类型编码并设计了相应的数据传输格式。现场海试结果表明该方法对于全波谱数据计算和传输较为准确,有效波高、峰值周期、平均波向和方向扩展的准确率相比于单独GPS传感器计算结果分别提升了12.5%(0.1m)、5%(0.2s)、8%(13°)和13%(8°),为海浪观测资料获取提供了新方法和新思路,可以进一步满足海洋多要素研究和对完整频谱分析的实际应用需求。 相似文献
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基于星载波谱仪海浪方向谱探测原理，仿真了不同海况、风速下的海浪波谱仪接收信号，并采用周期图法、Welch法、AR模型法以及最小方差法共4种不同的调制谱估计方法反演出海浪谱，比较各种调制谱估计方法的海浪方向谱反演性能。仿真结果表明:对于一定方位向下的一维海浪谱反演，不同调制谱估计方法反演海浪谱性能优劣没有绝对的顺序。对于二维海浪谱反演，在成长中海浪条件下周期图法反演性能最差，其他3种方法的反演性能没有绝对优劣顺序；对于成熟风浪，最小方差法在积分能量误差、有效波高误差两个指标上的反演性能最好，在主波波向、主波波长误差上，周期图法反演性能最差，其他3种方法没有绝对优劣顺序。在涌浪条件下，AR模型法反演性能优于其他3种方法。在不同海况下，随着波谱仪中心入射角的下降，反演性能会下降。基于这些仿真结果，本文推荐最小方差法作为充分成长海浪的海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法，AR模型法作为涌浪海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法。 相似文献
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针对利用X波段海浪雷达回波图像反演海浪参数(波高、波向、波周期)的需要,而海浪雷达回波信号的采集和存储是利用雷达回波图像序列反演海浪参数的必要前提,提出了基于PXI-9280 A/D采集卡对X波段海浪雷达回波进行采集的方案.具体介绍了PXI-9280 A/D采集卡的功能特性,海浪雷达回波信号样式,设计并完成了基于VC 6.0的采集和存储软件,并对使用该采集卡需要注意的实际问题给予说明.此外,还搭建了实验平台,给出了基于PXI-9280 A/D采集卡在我国南海某海域中采集数据并回放得到的海浪雷达回波图像,得到较满意的结果. 相似文献
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基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。 相似文献
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OSMAR-S系列便携式高频地波雷达系统采用单极子/交叉环紧凑型天线阵,通过单站雷达即可实现有效探测距离约10km内海浪和海面风的单点观测。为了更好地了解OSMAR-S100雷达系统海浪和海面风的综合探测性能,于2013年1月29日至3月7日在台湾海峡西南部海域进行了雷达与浮标观测的对比试验,得到了有效波高、有效波周期、平均风速和平均风向数据。对比结果表明,OSMAR-S100便携式高频地波雷达可有效观测距雷达10km以内有效波高0.5m以上的海浪平均状况和平均风速5m/s以上的海面风,雷达反演有效波高和有效波周期的均方根误差分别为0.60m和1.60s,反演平均风速和平均风向的均方根误差为1.83m/s和16.7°。在未经区域化标定的情况下,此结果说明了该型雷达产品已初步具备了海浪和海面风的业务化观测水平。 相似文献
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A method of extracting wave parameters from surface displacement measured from a moving platform is presented. The article first presents a method for accurately measuring surface displacement using a single beam altimeter and heave sensor. A least squares approach is presented to estimate wave parameters using vessel velocity and perceived wave frequency that eliminates Doppler due to vessel motion. Two techniques for estimating wave frequency are presented: a block data method using MUSIC and a real-time method using demodulation. Sea trial results demonstrate that this method is as effective as a WaveRider buoy for estimating wave parameters. 相似文献
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I. I. Didenkulova A. V. Sergeeva E. N. Pelinovsky S. N. Gurbatov 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2010,46(4):530-532
A run-up of irregular long sea waves on a beach with a constant slope is studied within the framework of the nonlinear shallow-water
theory. This problem was solved earlier for deterministic waves, both periodic and pulse ones, using the approach based on
the Legendre transform. Within this approach, it is possible to get an exact solution for the displacement of a moving shoreline
in the case of irregular-wave run-up as well. It is used to determine statistical moments of run-up characteristics. It is
shown that nonlinearity in a run-up wave does not affect the velocity moments of the shoreline motion but influences the moments
of mobile shoreline displacement. In particular, the randomness of a wave field yields an increase in the average water level
on the shore and decrease in standard deviation. The asymmetry calculated through the third moment is positive and increases
with the amplitude growth. The kurtosis calculated through the fourth moment turns out to be positive at small amplitudes
and negative at large ones. All this points to the advantage of the wave run-up on the shore as compared to a backwash at
least for small-amplitude waves, even if an incident wave is a Gaussian stationary process with a zero mean. The probability
of wave breaking during run-up and the applicability limits for the derived equations are discussed. 相似文献
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This paper presents a local tsunami simulation, including the initial displacement field model of tsunami source and tsunami wave propagation model. We deduced the tsunami wave equation; applied the ma... 相似文献
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提出了一种用于对不连续压力采样序列的傅立叶分析方法.此方法将周期函数展开成傅立叶级数,但在数值积分时取函数周期内有采样值的区间作为积分域,然后求解线性方程组得到傅立叶级数的系数值.为了检验本方法的有效性,利用此方法对解析函数进行了拟合,当一个周期内的取样时间大于1/2周期时,利用此方法能够得到满意的结果.利用实验方法研究了波浪作用下截断圆柱表面的压力分布.在波浪作用下静水面附近的测点在露出水面时没有压力值.利用所提出的傅立叶分析方法对略低于静水面位置的实测压力进行了分析,拟合结果与实测结果吻合很好,说明此方法在处理物理模型实验中间断采样得到的数据是有效的.利用数值方法对波浪压力进行了计算,并将一阶和二阶波压力的数值结果与实测值进行了比较. 相似文献
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海床土层在波浪的循环荷载作用下会逐渐累积孔压,降低土层的稳定性,并威胁海上工程。为了研究孔隙水压力的累积机制,本文提出离散元孔隙密度流方法,并改进研发离散元分析软件MatDEM,实现了海床沉积物孔压的累积过程模拟。基于现场试验装置及土体力学参数建立离散元模型,通过对比试验和数值模拟结果发现:对海床沉积物施加波浪荷载后,表层土体中产生较高孔压,并逐渐向深层传递;在循环波浪荷载作用下,土颗粒间孔压累积范围逐渐增加;当孔压累积时间足够长时,土层中孔压收敛于所施加最大荷载与最小荷载的平均值,此时若孔压达到初始有效应力,土体将发生液化,内部土颗粒成为再悬浮沉积物;在周期性波浪荷载作用下,土颗粒液化悬浮后发生移动,浅层颗粒位移量大,土体整体表现为圆弧形移动。 相似文献
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应用基于势流理论的频域边界元方法,研究了波浪在有限长正弦周期地形上的传播问题.开展了网格收敛性分析,并与物理模型试验结果做了对比,验证了数值方法的准确性.研究了正弦地形长度和幅度对水波反射率的影响,以及波浪在周期性地形上传播时的沿程波幅变化.研究发现,波浪反射系数随波数的变化及波浪幅值沿程的变化均呈包络状;当频率处于布拉格共振区域边缘且反射率为零时,周期地形上会出现极大的波幅;随海床波幅增大,第一布拉格共振带变宽且向低频移动. 相似文献
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Unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and Navier-Stokes type model equations for porous flow were solved numerically to simulate the propagation of water waves over a permeable rippled bed. A boundary-fitted coordinate system was adopted to make the computational meshes consistent with the rippled bed. The accuracy of the numerical scheme was confirmed by comparing the numerical results concerning the spatial distribution of wave amplitudes over impermeable and permeable rippled beds with the analytical solutions. For periodic incident waves, the flow field over the wavy wall is discussed in terms of the steady Eulerian streaming velocity. The trajectories of the fluid particles that are initially located close to the ripples were also determined. One of the main results herein is that under the action of periodic water waves, fluid particles on an impermeable rippled bed initially moved back and forth around the ripple crest, with increasing vertical distance from the rippled wall. After one or two wave periods, they are then lifted towards the next ripple crest. All of the marked particles on a permeable rippled bed were shifted onshore with a much larger displacement than those on an impermeable bed. Finally, the flow fields and the particle motions close to impermeable and permeable beds induced by a solitary wave are elucidated. 相似文献
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Many formulations have been developed so far to predict the wave height and period from fetch length and wind blowing duration for a constant wind speed. This study aimed to predict wave parameters from fetch length and meteorological factors by using triple diagram methodology based on Kriging principles. Proposed model results were compared with Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) model which is used so commonly in the ocean and coastal engineering studies. For the implementation of the methodology hourly wave and wind data were obtained from a buoy located in Lake Ontario. Numerical and graphical comparisons demonstrated that the proposed method outperforms the classical formulation. 相似文献
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Li Yanbao Song Reng
Associate Professor Dept. of Hydralulic Eng. Tianjin University Tainjin .
Professor Dept. of Hydralulic Eng. Tianjin University Tainjin 《中国海洋工程》1996,(2)
The analysis of the data of model tests of two large deep wharves and monographic experimental studies show that two aspects are to be improved so as to predict the wave uplift forces on the bottom of a circular cylinder. The first aspect is the uplift pressure distribution on the bottom, and the second is the correct determination of the phase for maximum horizontal wave forces. The second problem has been solved. Synthesizing the results of theoretical analysis and experiments, we suggest a diagram for the determination of the phase when the maximum horizontal wave force appears. On the basis-ef the diagram the simultaneous wave uplift forces can be obtained for the structural stability analysis. 相似文献