共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 15 毫秒
1.
本文在作者另文数值模拟得到的三维海浪基础上 ,进一步分析给出了三维波峰长度、高度及方向角度等特征量的统计分布。发现考虑海浪的方向性质后波峰分布不再是均匀连续的 ;波峰的长度分布受方向函数影响 ,方向分布越宽 ,波峰的平均长度越短 ,波峰的方向角分布越宽 ;波峰高度和长度在波峰高度较小时有很大的相关性 ,而在波峰高度很大时无关 相似文献
2.
On the distribution of crest to trough wave heights 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Arvid Naess 《Ocean Engineering》1985,12(3):221-234
In the present paper we derive the probability distribution function of crest to trough wave heights in a narrow-band, Gaussian stochastic process. It is shown that the distribution function is a one-parameter Rayleigh distribution where the parameter is expressed in terms of the correlation function of the given process. Comparison based on correlation values obtained via sea wave spectra indicate that the derived distribution function agrees well with observed data. 相似文献
3.
Rodney J. Sobey 《Coastal Engineering》1996,27(3-4)
The correlation between individual waves in a real sea state has a central role in existing theories of wave grouping. The attractive Kimura (1980) theory has two critical assumptions, that the sequence of individual wave heights follows a Markov process and that the joint distribution of consecutive wave heights follows a bivariate Rayleigh form. Analysis of measured water surface records suggests that sequences of individual waves can reasonably be described as a first order mixed autoregressive, moving-average or ARMA process, though a distinction among ARMA (1,0), ARMA (0,1) and ARMA (1,1) models was beyond the resolution of the data. These include the Markov or ARMA (1,0) model. The decisive detail, the joint distribution of consecutive wave heights in the sea state, was evaluated by a simulation methodology that is consistent with the Gaussian random wave model. The estimates are dependent on spectral shape and are consistently narrower and more sharply focussed at the peak than the corresponding bivariate Rayleigh estimate. The resulting predictions of run and group length statistics differ from the Kimura theory, though not by a sufficient margin to displace the Kimura theory as a pragmatic choice for wave grouping. 相似文献
4.
Probability distribution of wave heights attenuated by salt marsh vegetation during tropical cyclone
Zero-crossing wave heights, obtained from the field measurement of random waves propagating through salt marsh vegetation (Spartina alterniflora) during a tropical storm, were analyzed to examine their probability distribution. Wave data (significant wave heights up to 0.4 m in 0.8 m depth) were collected over a two-day period along a 28 m transect using three pressure transducers sampling at 10 Hz. Wave height distribution was observed to deviate from the Rayleigh distribution. The observed probability densities of the larger wave heights were reduced significantly by vegetation, producing wave heights lower than those predicted by the Rayleigh distribution. Assuming Rayleigh distributed wave heights for the incident waves to the vegetation patch, existing vegetation-induced wave attenuation formulations are used to derive a special form of two-parameter Weibull distribution for wave heights in the inundated wetland. The scale parameter of the distribution is theoretically shown to be a function of the shape parameter, which agrees with the measurements, effectively reducing the proposed distribution to a one-parameter type. The derived distribution depends on the local parameters only and fits well to the observed distribution of wave heights attenuated by vegetation. Empirical relationships are developed to estimate the shape parameter from the local wave parameters. 相似文献
5.
The statistical distribution of wave crest characteristics such as crest length, crest height, joint crest height and length are analyzed based on numerical simulation of 3-D random waves. The effects of directional functions and wave crest defining methods on crest characteristics are also studied.The results show that wave crests are no longer uniform and continuous in directional wave field; the distribution of crest length is obviously influenced by the directional function; the statistics of crest characteristics obtained by the two different methods are almost the same. 相似文献
6.
M.Aziz Tayfun 《Ocean Engineering》1984,11(3):245-264
The effect of nonlinearities, such as wave-breaking and vertical asymmetry associated with sea waves, on the distribution of wave amplitudes is explored. Semiclosed theoretical expressions are derived to describe the distributions of breaking-limited crest and trough amplitudes for Stokes-type nonlinear sea waves. These are compared with the conventional Rayleigh distribution appropriate to linear wave amplitudes. The construction of nonlinear wave envelopes with the fast Fourier transform technique is described. The technique can be utilized to enlarge the data base in empirical analyses of field records which typically contain limited information on amplitude characteristics. The theoretical distributions and the proposed data enlargement technique are demonstrated with the analysis of a nonlinear wave record. 相似文献
7.
I. Rychlik 《Ocean Engineering》1996,23(6):447-454
In this note conservative bounds for significant crest height and amplitude obtained from the crossing intensity of a sea are presented. For Gaussian models of a sea level, the Rayleigh approximation for the distributions of amplitude and crest height is proved to provide conservative values for the expected significant wave characteristics. The results are illustrated by examples in which both Gaussian and non-Gaussian models for a sea are considered. 相似文献
8.
R.J. Sobey 《Ocean Engineering》1992,19(2)
Existing theoretical distributions of wave height and period do not reflect measured joint distributions from field data. A simulation methodology is introduced to retain the essential features of the theoretical background in Gaussian random noise but to avoid further compromising assumptions in the interpretation of height and period in the amplitude domain. A joint distribution can be associated directly with an empirical or measured variance spectrum. Spectral shape appears to dominate the detail of predicted joint distributions. There is generally a much sharper decay in probability levels at higher periods than is predicted by theoretical models. For Jonswap spectra, there is a dominant central ridge and a distinct bimodal structure in the joint distribution, features that are not evident in symmetric Gaussian spectral forms. The wave height distributions for Jonswap spectra differ little from the Rayleigh distribution, except at extreme wave heights where Rayleigh overpredicts. The period distributions are strongly sensitive to spectral shape. In the conditional distribution of periods, given the height, the asymptotic median period at extreme wave heights is significantly longer than the mean period for Jonswap spectra, but not for symmetric Gaussian forms. 相似文献
9.
A. Toffoli M. Onorato E. Bitner-Gregersen A.R. Osborne A.V. Babanin 《Ocean Engineering》2008,35(3-4):367-379
When the wave spectrum is sufficiently narrow-banded and the wave steepness is sufficiently high, the modulational instability can take place and waves can be higher than expected from second-order wave theory. In order to investigate these effects on the statistical distribution of long-crested, deep water waves, direct numerical simulations of the Euler equations have been performed. Results show that, for a typical design spectral shape, both the upper and lower tails of the probability density function for the surface elevation significantly deviate from the commonly used second-order wave theory. In this respect, the crest elevation is observed to increase up to 18% at low probability levels. It would furthermore be expected that wave troughs become shallower due to nonlinear effects. Nonetheless, the numerical simulations show that the trough depressions tend to be deeper than in second-order theory. 相似文献
10.
Analysis of freak wave measurements in the Sea of Japan 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
This paper presents an analysis of a set of available freak wave measurements gathered from several periods of continuous wave recordings made in the Sea of Japan during 1986–1990 by the Ship Research Institute of Japan. The analysis provides an ideal opportunity to catch a glimpse of the statistics of freak waves in the ocean. The results show that a well-defined freak wave may occur in the developed wind–wave condition: S(f)∝f−4, with single-peak directional spectra. The crest and trough amplitude distributions of the observed sea waves including freak waves are different from the Rayleigh distribution, although the wave height distribution tends to agree with the Rayleigh distribution. Freak waves can be readily identified from the wavelet spectrum where a strong energy density occurs in the spectrum, and is instantly surged and seemingly carried over to the high-frequency components at the instant the freak wave occurs. 相似文献
11.
Ｍａｘｉｍｕｍｅｎｔｒｏｐｙｐｒｉｎｃｉｐｌｅａｎｄｓｔａｔｉｓｔｉｃａｌｄｉｓｔｒｉｂｕｔｉｏｎｏｆｏｃｅａｎｗａｖｅｈｅｉｇｈｔｓ￥ＷｕＫｅｊｉａｎａｎｄＳｕｎＦｕ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＭａｙ１５，１９９５；ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＪｕｎｅ２１，１９９５）Ａ... 相似文献
12.
Based on linear theory of sea waves, the height distribution of the intersections of wave surface with its envelope is derived. The distribution may be regarded as that of the significant crest heights under certain conditions. Some properties of this distribution are discussed in analogy to maxima theory. Data are found to be in good agreement with the theoretical curve. 相似文献
13.
14.
The statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth has been quantitatively determined from the comprehensive field velocity data collected near the seabed in this study. Two ocean ADV current meters, which were mounted at 0.5 m above the seabed on two separate stainless steel tripods sitting on the seabed, were used to measure instantaneous water particle velocities at a 2 Hz sampling rate for 17.07 min every hour in two coastal water depths of 11 m and 23 m in nine field deployments over a period of 2 years. The zero-crossing method is applied to analyse the field velocity data collected in each field deployment to obtain a large sample of wave orbital velocity amplitudes of individual waves. Based on the collected field velocity data, it is found that the histogram of instantaneous wave orbital velocities perfectly follows the Gaussian distribution as commonly assumed, while the histogram of wave orbital velocity amplitudes is less accurately described by the Rayleigh distribution than the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. It is also found that large orbital velocity amplitudes are generally overestimated by the Rayleigh distribution, but well predicted by the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. The expected value of maximum orbital velocity in a velocity record of finite size is also derived from the three distributions and found to agree well with the present field data. 相似文献
15.
Yu Dingyong Xu Delun
Ph. D. Student Engineering College Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao Professor Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao 《中国海洋工程》1997,(3)
The statistical distribution of wavelength is directly derived from a two-dimensional andspatially homogeneous Gaussian wave field.The present result differs from both the result of Rayleigh dis-tribution and Sun's result(1988b)which is transformed through the period distribution derived from atwo-dimensional and stationary Gaussian wave field.A laboratory experiment shows that the present re-sult is more consistent with the observations in the wave tank than the others. 相似文献
16.
Prediction of Extreme Significant Wave Height from Daily Maxima 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
For prediction of the extreme significant wave height in the ocean areas where long term wave data are not available, the empirical method of extrapolating short term data (1-3 years) is used in design practice. In this paper two methods are proposed to predict extreme significant wave height based on short-term daily maxima. According to the da-a recorded by the Oceanographic Station of Liaodong Bay at the Bohai Sea, it is supposed that daily maximum wave heights are statistically independent. The data show that daily maximum wave heights obey log-normal distribution, and that the numbers of daily maxima vary from year to year, obeying binomial distribution. Based on these statistical characteristics, the binomial-log-normal compound extremum distribution is derived for prediction of extreme significant wave heights (50-100 years). For examination of its accuracy and validity, the prediction of extreme wave heights is based on 12 years' data at this station, and based on each 3 years' data respectively 相似文献
17.
The random long wave runup on a beach of constant slope is studied in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow water theory. These solutions are used for calculation of the statistical characteristics of the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline and its horizontal velocity. It is shown that probability characteristics of the runup heights and extreme values of the shoreline velocity coincide in the linear and nonlinear theory. If the incident wave is represented by a narrow-band Gaussian process, the runup height is described by a Rayleigh distribution. The significant runup height can also be found within the linear theory of long wave shoaling and runup. Wave nonlinearity nearshore does not affect the Gaussian probability distribution of the velocity of the moving shoreline. However the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline becomes non-Gaussian due to the wave nonlinearity. Its statistical moments are calculated analytically. It is shown that the mean water level increases (setup), the skewness is always positive and kurtosis is positive for weak amplitude waves and negative for strongly nonlinear waves. The probability of the wave breaking is also calculated and conditions of validity of the analytical theory are discussed. The spectral and statistical characteristics of the moving shoreline are studied in detail. It is shown that the probability of coastal floods grows with an increase in the nonlinearity. Randomness of the wave field nearshore leads to an increase in the wave spectrum width. 相似文献
18.
《Applied Ocean Research》2004,26(3-4):114-136
Two successive wave heights are modeled by a Gaussian copula, which is referred to as the Nataf model. Results with two initial distributions for the transformation are presented, the Næss model [Næss A. On the distribution of crest to trough wave heights. Ocean Engineering (1985);12(3):221–34] and a two-parameter Weibull distribution, where the latter is in best agreement with data. The results are compared with existing models. The Nataf model has also been used for modeling three successive wave heights.Results show that the Nataf transformation of three successive wave heights can be approximated by a first order autoregressive model. This means that the distribution of the wave height given the previous wave height is independent of the wave heights prior to the previous wave height. Thus, the joint distribution of three successive wave heights can be obtained by combining conditional bivariate distributions. The simulation of successive wave heights can be done directly without simulating the time series of the complete surface elevation.Successive wave periods with corresponding wave heights exceeding a certain threshold have also been studied. Results show that the distribution for successive wave periods when the corresponding wave heights exceed the root-mean-square value of the wave heights, can be approximated by a multivariate Gaussian distribution.The theoretical distributions are compared with observed wave data obtained from field measurements in the central North Sea and in the Japan Sea, with laboratory data and numerical simulations. 相似文献
19.
Stewart W.I. Chu D. Malik S. Lerner S. Singh H. 《Oceanic Engineering, IEEE Journal of》1994,19(4):599-610
Bathymetry and backscatter measurements from a 120-kHz phase-difference sonar are analysed in terms of statistical and spectral characteristics. Data from a multisensor, multiscale survey of the Juan de Fuca Ridge are compared across three distinct geological provinces: sediment pond, ridge flank, and axial valley. The detrended bathymetry follows a Gaussian distribution; the power spectral density can be approximately described by a power law. The composite multiscale power spectrum demonstrates a similar slope spanning a spatial frequency range from about 0.005 to 50 cycles/m, corresponding to a range of geological features from a few hundred meters down to several centimeters. The backscattering strength and grazing-angle dependencies agree with previous empirical studies; data from a sediment-pond region are shown to match theoretical predictions of the composite-roughness model. Histograms of the echo amplitude are characterized by a multimodal Rayleigh probability density function. For all analyses, the data show distinct differences among the three provinces 相似文献
20.
Calibration coefficients incorporated in the modified Weibull distribution are more effective for maximum wave height simulation. The parametric relations are derived there from to estimate various wave height statistics including extreme wave heights. The characteristic function of the Weibull distribution is derived. The Weibull distribution is suggested for the newly defined significant wave height simulation by the method of characteristic function. The statistical tools suggested and developed here for predicting the required wave height statistics are validated against the wave data (both deep and shallow) of eastern Arabian Sea comprising rough monsoon conditions also, giving reasonable accuracy. 相似文献