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1.
Coastal erosion is a serious problem of concern along the southwest(SW) coast of India. Various coastal protection measures have been applied for the recovery of the coast, but the devastating effect of erosion still continues. The present study focuses on a coastal stretch situated on the southern sector of the SW coast of India, where Sundar and Sannasiraj(2006) proposed a groyne field along with an existing seawall to control severe erosion. In order to confirm the net littoral drift of this region and for a preliminary assessment of the performance of the groynes prior to construction of the proposed groyne field, two groynes were initially constructed as a pilot program in 2008-09. Periodic monitoring of shoreline position with the two groynes in place was carried out during 2009-14. A shoreline evolution model for the study region was setup, calibrated,and validated using field observations during 2010-11. In addition to traditional shoreline evolution modelling procedures, a profile simulation model was applied for simulating the shoreline behaviour during extreme monsoon seasons. The validated LITPACK model has been used to evaluate the performance of the proposed groyne field in controlling erosion, and the study also considered testing a modified transitional groyne field proposed as an alternative solution to the existing problem, and the modified transitional groyne field was found to be more effective than the prior design. A beach is expected to develop about 30-50 m within the groyne cells during the fair season which enhances the possibility of retaining a minimum beach width of 10 m during monsoon periods.  相似文献   

2.
Sulina, the middle distributary of the Danube Delta, has been significantly changed by human activities over the past 150 yr. These include engineering works in the second half of the 19th century, when the channel was transformed for navigation and the construction of jetties which nowadays extend 8 km seawards. These interventions have strongly affected the natural processes of the Black Sea coast near the Sulina mouth. To the south of the Sulina mouth, the natural mild erosion has been reversed in the area close to the jetties where accretion is occurring, while southwards the greatest erosion rate along the entire Romanian coast, of more than 20 m/yr, has been recorded. Sediment accumulation in the northern part of the mouth is also huge and has brought to the creation and swift elongation of a sediment spit in several decades. Thus, the bay located here suffers from a rapid transformation into a lagoon.  相似文献   

3.
《Marine pollution bulletin》2008,56(10-12):555-563
Sulina, the middle distributary of the Danube Delta, has been significantly changed by human activities over the past 150 yr. These include engineering works in the second half of the 19th century, when the channel was transformed for navigation and the construction of jetties which nowadays extend 8 km seawards.These interventions have strongly affected the natural processes of the Black Sea coast near the Sulina mouth. To the south of the Sulina mouth, the natural mild erosion has been reversed in the area close to the jetties where accretion is occurring, while southwards the greatest erosion rate along the entire Romanian coast, of more than 20 m/yr, has been recorded.Sediment accumulation in the northern part of the mouth is also huge and has brought to the creation and swift elongation of a sediment spit in several decades. Thus, the bay located here suffers from a rapid transformation into a lagoon.  相似文献   

4.
The decadal evolution of the dunefoot position along 120 km of the Holland coast is analysed. Firstly, a new definition of dunefoot is introduced based on hydrodynamic and morphologic considerations, which is not affected by local and instantaneous processes occurring immediately before the bathymetric survey. The dunefoot evolution over decadal scales indicates the existence of spatial and temporal oscillations in the shoreline position with magnitudes of 2–3 km length and a periodicity of 4–15 years. Two main controlling factors of this behaviour are identified: (1) influence of sub-aqueous bar systems, and (2) changes in the storm-wave conditions reaching the coast. Although the precise controlling processes of the relation between the dunefoot and the subaqueous profile still remain unclarified, we introduce the concept that the development of a morphological bar cycle requires a fixed amount of time-integrated forcing that is proportional to the cumulative effect of storm waves. Beach mobility along the Holland coast on decadal scales (10–20 m) is similar or lower than mobility introduced by storms or by seasonal cycles. However, it is important to consider these changes for the possible implications on the local vulnerability of the coast to extreme events. Copyright © 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
The dynamics of the dunefoot along a 160 km portion of the Dutch coast has been investigated based on a data set of annual surveys dating back to as early as 1850. The linearly detrended (or residual) dunefoot positions comprise an alongshore uniform and an alongshore non‐uniform component. The former is expressed as 10 to 15 m of landward retreat along extensive (>10 km) stretches of coast during years with severe storm surges and as up to 5 m of seaward advance during years without significant storm activity. The latter, alongshore non‐uniform component is organized in sandwave‐like patterns, which may have a longevity of decades to up to the duration of the entire data set (150 years). Their wavelengths vary along the coast, from 3·5 to 10 km; migration rates are 0–200 m a?1. Dunefoot sandwaves are shown to be the shoreward extensions of similar sandwave patterns in the beach position. The non‐uniform dunefoot behaviour constitutes at least 80 per cent of the total residual dunefoot dynamics, implying that along the Dutch coast residual dunefoot variability is controlled by temporal and spatial variability in beach characteristics, and not by storm‐induced uniform erosion. Various potential mechanisms causing beach sandwaves are discussed. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Probably the largest regular shoreline fluctuations on Earth occur along the 1500 km-long wave-exposed Guianas coast of South America between the mouths of the Amazon and Orinoco Rivers, the world's longest muddy coast. The Guianas coast is influenced by a succession of mud banks migrating northwestward from the Amazon. Migrating mud banks dissipate waves, partially weld onshore, and lead to coastal progradation, aided by large-scale colonization by mangroves, whereas mangrove-colonized areas between banks (inter-bank areas) are exposed to strong wave action and undergo erosion. On large tracts of this coast, urbanization and farming have led to fragmentation and removal of mangroves, resulting in aggravated shoreline retreat. To highlight this situation, we determined, in a setting where mangroves and backshore freshwater marshes have been converted into rice polders in French Guiana, shoreline change over 38 years (1976-2014) from satellite images and aerial orthophotographs. We also conducted four field experiments between October 2013 and October 2014, comprising topographic and hydrodynamic measurements, to determine mechanisms of retreat. The polder showed persistent retreat, at peak rates of up to -200 m/yr, and no recovery over the 38-year period of monitored change. Notwithstanding high erosion rates, mangrove shorelines show strong resilience, with recovery characterized by massive accretion. Retreat of the polder results in a steep wave-reworked shoreface with a lowered capacity for bank welding onshore and mangrove establishment. Persistent polder erosion is accompanied by the formation of a sandy chenier that retreats landwards at rates largely exceeding those in inter-bank situations. These results show that anthropogenic mangrove removal can durably modify the morphodynamics of muddy shorefaces. This limits the capacity for shoreline recovery and mangrove re-establishment even when there is no sustained long-term deficit in mud supply, as in the case of the Amazon-influenced Guianas coast. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
The coast of Wellington, New Zealand, is tectonically active and contains a series of uplifted and contemporary shore platforms that are developed in Triassic Greywacke. The platform profiles are rugged with relief of metre scale common. The surveyed platforms were formed at, and at two distinct levels 1–1·5 and 2–2·5 m above, mean sea level. They range in width up to 70 m and are highly fractured with fracture densities in excess of 20[sol ]m2 common. The rate of development of these platforms is rapid, with lateral erosion rates of up to 0·15 m[sol ]yr calculated, allowing platform development to occur over centennial scales. Even given this rapid development, continued instantaneous uplift of the coast has meant they are unable to reach an equilibrium state, whereby the effectiveness of wave processes in removing material is reduced by platform extension. The co‐seismic uplift means that the rear of the platforms is raised beyond the limits of marine process and has become an area of deposition. Although no direct process measurements were made the highly fractured nature of the bedrock appears to play a major role in platform evolution, with wave processes being easily able to pluck blocks as evidenced by fresh erosion scars and active gravel beaches at the rear of many platforms. This coast therefore represents an extremely dynamic youthful shore platform environment, where the processes of marine abrasion can be observed over historical timescales. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

8.
A series of airborne topographic LiDAR data were obtained from May 2008 to January 2014 over two coastal sites of northern France (Bay of Wissant and east of Dunkirk). These data were used with wind and tide gauge measurements to assess the impacts of storms on beaches and coastal dunes, and particularly of the series of major storms that hit western Europe during the fall and early winter of 2013. Our results show a high variability in shoreline response from one site to the other, but also within each coastal site. Coastal dune erosion and shoreline retreat occurred at both sites, particularly on the coast of the Bay of Wissant where shoreline retreat up to about 40 m was measured. However, stability or even shoreline advance were also observed despite the occurrence of an extreme water level with a return period >100 years during the storm Xaver in early December 2013. Comparison of shoreline change with variations of coastal dune and upper beach volumes revealed only weak relationships. Our results nevertheless showed that shoreline behavior seems to strongly depend on the initial sediment volume on the upper beach before the occurrence of the storms. According to our measurements, an upper beach volume of about 30 m3 m?1 between the dune toe and the mean high water level is sufficient at these sites to protect the coastal dunes from storm waves associated with high water levels with return periods >10 years. The identification of such thresholds in terms of upper beach width or sediment volume may represent valuable information for improving the management of shoreline change by providing an estimate of the minimum quantity of sand on the upper beach necessary to ensure shoreline stability in this region. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
Sediment and coral skeleton samples from 23 coral reefs along the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica and Panama (1497 km) were evaluated for total mercury (Hg). High levels of pollution were found in the entire region with averages of 18.9 and 71.3 ppb in coral skeletons and sediments respectively. Significantly higher contamination was found in Panamanian corals (21.4 ppb) while compared to Costa Rican reef sediments (85.9 ppb). Hg from several processes and non-point sources (e.g., erosion, runoff, flooding, mining, overuse of agrochemicals, industrial waste, ports, and refineries) may have affected the entire region. The widespread observed distribution suggests that Hg is being carried along long distances within the region due to its high concentrations found in “pristine” reefs. Forest burning and colonial mining residues may be considered as possible contamination factors.  相似文献   

10.
Uplift of the shoreline in tectonically‐active areas can have a profound influence on geomorphology changing the entire process dynamics of the coast as the landforms are removed from the influence of the sea. Over decadal timescales it is possible for the landforms to return to their pre‐earthquake condition and this paper examines the re‐establishment of mixed sand and gravel beaches on the coast of Wellington, New Zealand, subsequent to an uplift event in 1855. Over 60 topographic profiles were surveyed, seven sets of aerial photographs from a 67 year period were mapped and sediment size analyses conducted in order to quantify the nature of beach change following uplift, and associated relative sea level fall. These data were supported by surveys using ground penetrating radar. It is found that uplift raised the gravel beaches out of the swash zone thereby removing them from the littoral zone. Intertidal rocky reefs which occur between each embayment were also uplifted during the same event and completely interrupted the longshore transport system. Continued input of gravel material to the littoral zone allowed beaches to re‐establish sequentially along the coast as each embayment was infilled with sediment. This reconnection of the embayments with the longshore drift system is associated with the beach planform being initially drift dominated during infill but then switching to swash alignment once the embayment becomes infilled. This has resulted in shoreline accretion of over 100 m in some places, at rates of up to 4 m/yr, covering shore protection works built in the past few decades. The ability of the shore to adjust back to its pre‐uplift condition appears to be a function of the accommodation space created during uplift and the rate of sediment supply. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
Coastal dunes are dynamic features that are continuously evolving due to constructive (e.g., wind- and wave-driven sediment transport) and destructive (e.g., elevated total water levels during storm events) processes. However, the relative importance of these processes in determining dune evolution is often poorly understood. In this study, ten lidar datasets from 1997 to 2016 are used to determine the relative role of erosion and accretion processes driving foredune change on the coast of Cape Lookout National Seashore, North Carolina, USA. Beach and dune morphometrics reveal that dune toe locations have generally retreated since 1997, while dune crest heights accreted by 0.01–0.02 m/year. We develop three univariate metrics that represent (1) the potential for erosion, i.e., total water level impact hours per year, (2) accretion, i.e., dune building hours per year, and (3) the relative net effect of foredune accretion and erosion processes, i.e., constructive–destructive dune forcing (CDDF) ratio, and test the correlative power of these metrics in explaining changes in foredune morphology. The total water level impact hours per year metric explained as much as 66% and 67% of the variance in dune crest and toe elevations, respectively, across the nearly two decades of dune evolution. The greatest number of dune building hours per year and largest dunes within the study site co-occurred at locations exposed to the dominant cross-shore wind direction as a result of varying shoreline orientation. The CDDF ratio was positively correlated to changes in the dune toe elevation in approximately 70% of dunes within the study site, outperforming the impact and dune building hours per year metrics. Our results show that these three metrics can provide first-order estimates of dune morphometric change across multiple spatial and temporal scales, which may be particularly useful at sites where lidar acquisition is intermittent.  相似文献   

12.
The northern coast of Vietnam has accumulated a significant amount of sediment discharged from the multiple distributaries of rivers such as the Red River and Ma River.While recent decreases of the sediment supply appears to have a significant impact on coastal erosion,the complex network of these distributaries makes it difficult to determine the overall spatiotemporal characteristics of sediment discharges and related topographic changes.The goal of the current study is to develop a satellite-based monitoring system for observation of turbidity discharged from the multiple rivers and to investigate the applicability of the developed monitoring system through a case study on the northern coast of Vietnam.Based on the in-situ observed data,a formulawas determined for estimation of the surface water turbidity as a function of the red band reflectance of Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectro-radiometer(MODIS)images.The formula was then combined with a newly determined threshold for cloud-masking to obtain maps of the nearshore turbidity patterns.These maps capture the spatiotemporal water surface turbidity along the entire coast of the Red River Delta and the coast around theMa River mouth over the past sixteen years with frequency of twice a day.Finally,long-term trends of the turbidity patterns from multiple rivers were compared with the in-situ observation data and it was found that the Red River and the Ma River showed clearly contrasting characteristics,which reasonably explain the recent coastal shoreline changes and characteristics of sediment sampled along the coast.  相似文献   

13.
1973-2018年青海湖岸线动态变化   总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0  
青海湖独特的地理位置使得其不仅对环湖周边区域气候起着天然调节器的作用,而且还拥有丰富的湖岸线资源,准确、及时地掌握青海湖岸线动态变化对保护沿湖生态环境有重要意义.因此本文基于1973-2018年Landsat MSS/TM/OLI遥感影像和1961-2017年实测水位资料,对青海湖岸线动态变化及对鸟类栖息地的影响进行研究,同时结合面积、水位及气象数据讨论了影响岸线变化的主要因素.研究表明：1）近45年来青海湖岸线发生变化最大的区域是东岸的沙岛,西岸的鸟岛、铁布卡湾及北岸沙柳河入口区域.尤其自2004年以来,鸟岛地区岸线后退距离最大（5.52 km）,鸟类栖息地扩张约97.94 km2,为鸟类提供了较好的栖息环境.（2）1973-2018年青海湖岸线长度以0.88 km/a的速率逐渐延长.1997年之前岸线长度呈较为平稳的上升趋势,1997-2004年呈波动下降趋势,2004年之后呈剧烈波动增加趋势,岸线曲折性也表现出相同的变化趋势.（3）总体上岸线长度和曲折性受水位和面积的影响并不显著,但在不同的水位情况下,二者对青海湖动态变化做出不同的响应.尤其当水位小于3193.3 m或面积小于4249.3 km2时,岸线曲折性会随着水位和面积变化呈现相同的变化趋势,而水位高于3193.3 m时,岸线曲折性一直在增加,且水位上升速率越大则曲折性年际变化越大.（4）1973-2004年间青海湖水位下降和土地沙漠化是造成湖岸线变化的直接成因,人类活动及草场退化加速了湖泊岸线的变迁.2004年之后,随着青海湖水位回升与面积扩张,岸线逐渐后退,尤其在2017-2018年岸线后退距离最大.  相似文献   

14.
A three-dimensional model based on the Princeton Ocean Model (POM) has been implemented to study the circulation of the west coast of India. The model uses a curvilinear orthogonal horizontal grid with higher resolution near the coast (3–9 km) and a terrain following sigma coordinate in the vertical. The model is able to simulate Lakshadweep High and Lakshadweep Low (LL) during the winter and summer monsoons, respectively. During winter, the downwelling processes noticed along the coast help in the formation of temperature inversions. The inversions can be seen even up to the depths of ～50 m, which agrees with the available ARGO data in the region. Model simulations show that coastal upwelling off Kerala is at its peak in July. The intensity of upwelling reduces along the coast towards north. During the existence of LL, there is a cyclonic eddy in the sub-surface waters over the South-Eastern Arabian Sea, with vertical extent up to the depths of 100–150 m and it is strengthened due to the presence of northward counter current in the shelf region. The southerly coastal jet formed along the southern coast as a result of upwelling is noticed a westward shift along with LL. The location of the eddy off Kerala is tilted towards the open ocean with depth and our experiments suggest that this flow can be understood as a first baroclinic mode.  相似文献   

15.
A sample ord, a low section of beach characteristic of the Holderness coast, is examined as it moved southwards between 1977 and 1983 and its significant role in coast erosion is demonstrated. The reduction in beach level at the cliff foot by up to 3.9 m enabled most HWN tides to reach it, as compared with only some HWS tides along the inter-ord beach, and the volume of till eroded from the cliffs increased by eight times to an annual mean of 72m3m?1. The Holderness tills are shown to be composed of 31 per cent sand and coarser sediment which is the sediment range of the beaches. Where an ord is sited the massive injection of beach sediment goes to form the ord's most prominent constructional feature, the lower beach ridge which extends southwards from the centre of the ord. Analysis of 12 months' observer wave data collected at Withernsea in 1969/70 indicates that a net southward sand movement of 144 000 m3 occurred. Comparison of this rate with beach sediment input rates along the whole coast backed by till cliffs suggests a sediment deficit at the northern end and a surplus towards the southern end. This conclusion is supported by an overall increase in beach sediment volume southwards from Barmston. Within this longshore sediment transport system, the ords migrate southwards from their point of origin in the Barmston-Skipsea area, without losing their identity until reaching the tip of Spurn Head.  相似文献   

16.
Although dunes fronted by sandy beaches constitute approximately 80 per cent of South Africa's coastline, few studies have addressed the formation and life cycle of coastal foredunes, the small, ephemeral shore‐parallel dune ridges typically less than 5 m high and 20 m wide, which form seaward of the storm line. This study used regular, detailed topographic surveys of embryo and foredunes at Tugela mouth, an aggrading stretch of shoreline on the subtropical east coast of South Africa, over a 32‐month period, to gain insight into the formation and motion of these highly mobile landforms over the short term. Average wind drift potential at Tugela mouth during the study period, at 2·35 m s?1, was an order of magnitude lower than that typical of most parts of the eastern South African coast. The dominant sand‐moving wind for the region was from the southwest to west‐southwest at 10·7 to 13·8 m s?1, with a secondary vector from north to north‐northeast at 10·8 to 13·8 m s?1. Signi?cant shoreline retreat, a result of the low sediment yield of the Tugela River during the study period, was one of the main results. This provided the context for redistribution of sand from the inland to the seaward side of the study area, a consequence of the dominant wind direction, and for frequent creation and destruction of short‐lived embryo dunes. Those foredunes which survived the whole study period tended to increase in height, but there was no consistent directional trend in foredune crest movement throughout the 32 months. The study results generally supported Psuty's model of foredune development, but could not con?rm his contention of landward retreat of dune forms under conditions of shoreline erosion. This may be due to the relatively short duration of the study, or possibly to low wind drift potential at the site. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
Beach erosion poses significant threat to small island economies which are generally highly dependent on coastal tourism. This work investigates the evolution of the low-lying sandy coast of Boa Vista through an integrated characterization of coastline and shoreline indicators (over the past four decades) based on aerial imagery. It was found that tandem use of the two indicators was important to obtain a reliable perspective of the Boa Vista low-lying coastal evolution across a wide range of coastal environments. Results indicate that between 1968 and 2010 the coast was relatively stable, although some spatial variability was recognized. The largest changes were observed at the tips of embayed beaches and a clear coastal progradation was found at the southern (downwind) coastal sectors. Coastal evolution has been dominated by sediment budget and the results put in evidence the sedimentary connections between the beaches across the island, either through bypass and overpass processes. Findings show that understanding coastal evolution at low-lying islands should be supported on island-scale observations, being the only scale capable to capture the sedimentary connections between beach systems, that often control coastal evolution. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
Coastal barriers are ubiquitous globally and provide a vital protective role to valuable landforms, habitats and communities located to landward. They are, however, vulnerable to extreme water levels and storm wave impacts. A detailed record of sub‐annual to annual; decadal; and centennial rates of shoreline retreat in frontages characterized by both high (> 3 m) and low (< 1 m) dunes is established for a barrier island on the UK east coast. For four storms (2006–2013) we match still water levels and peak significant wave heights against shoreline change at high levels of spatial densification. The results suggest that, at least in the short‐term, shoreline retreat, of typically 5–8 m, is primarily driven by individual events, separated by varying periods of barrier stasis. Over decadal timescales, significant inter‐decadal changes can be seen in both barrier onshore retreat rates and in barrier extension rates alongshore. Whilst the alongshore variability in barrier migration seen in the short‐term remains at the decadal scale, shoreline change at the centennial stage shows little alongshore variability between a region of barrier retreat (at 1.15 m a?1) and one of barrier extension. A data‐mining approach, synchronizing all the variables that drive shoreline change (still water level, timing of high spring tides and peak significant wave heights), is an essential requirement for validating models that predict future shoreline responses under changing sea level and storminess. © 2016 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×107 m3 during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.  相似文献   

20.
Sandbars, submerged ridges of sand parallel to the shoreline, affect surfzone circulation, beach topography and beach width. Under time‐varying wave forcing, sandbars may migrate onshore and offshore, referred to as two‐dimensional (2D) behaviour, and vary in planshape from alongshore uniform ridges to alongshore non‐uniform ridges through the growth and decay of three‐dimensional (3D) patterns, referred to as 3D behaviour. Although 2D and 3D sandbar behaviour is reasonably well understood along straight coasts, this is not the case for curved coasts, where the curvature can invoke spatial variability in wave forcing. Here, we analyse sandbar behaviour along the ～3000 m man‐made curved coastline of the Sand Engine, Netherlands, and determine the wave conditions governing this behaviour. 2D and 3D behaviour was quantified within a box north and west of the Sand Engine's tip, respectively, using a 2.4‐year dataset of daily low‐tide video images and a sparser bathymetric dataset. The northern and western sides behaved similarly in terms of 2D behaviour, with seasonal onshore and offshore migration, resulting in a stable position on inter‐annual timescales. However, both sandbar geometry and 3D behaviour differed substantially between both sides. The geometric differences (bar shape, bar crest depth and wavelength of 3D patterns) are consistent with computed alongshore differences in breaker height due to refraction. The differences in the timing in growth, decay and morphological coupling of 3D patterns in the sandbar and shoreline are likely related to differences in the local wave angle, imposed by the curved coast. Similar dependency of bar behaviour on local wave height and angle may be expected elsewhere along curved coasts, e.g. shoreline sandwaves, cuspate forelands or embayed beaches. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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