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1.
渤海、黄海沿岸主要港湾假潮的基本特征   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
基于港湾假潮振动的基本原理,从渤海、黄海沿岸20个验潮站多年水位自记曲线资料获取假潮参数,并对其做了统计分析,给出了假潮的统计特征,还讨论了假潮形成的初步原因。结果表明,该海域主要港湾假潮出现具有明显的局地性、季节性和年际变化;夏季是大振幅假潮(振幅^1)≥80cm)的多发期,冬季基本上不出现;龙口港湾的大振幅假潮最为突出,最大振幅可达293cm;气压和风速、风向突变的良好配合,是发生大振幅假潮的主要原因。  相似文献   

2.
The characteristics and effects of large-scale flow structures developed in the benthic boundary layer downstream from large topographic features were analysed throughout a tidal cycle. The observed signature of the macro-turbulent features consisted of streamwise modules of low horizontal velocity and high suspended sediment concentration (SSC), alternating with modules of high horizontal velocity and low SSC. These modules extended 10 to 20 m streamwise and exceeded 1 m vertically, and are believed to be related to flow separation effects over large bedforms upstream of the deployment site. The macroscale flow modules intensified the ‘ burst-like ’ turbulent events and favoured sediment transport. ‘ Ejection-like ’ events were magnified during modules of decreasing horizontal velocity and increasing turbidity, whereas ‘ sweep-like ’ events were magnified during modules of increasing horizontal velocity and decreasing SSC. The enhanced turbidity of the macroscale modules may be the result of enhanced upward diffusion of sediment by ejection events, whereas the low-turbidity modules may be induced by increased downward transport of suspended sediment by sweep events. These hypotheses were supported by cross-spectral analysis performed on velocity and suspended sediment concentration time-series recorded at the site. An enhanced (negative) contribution of outward and inward interaction events to the Reynolds stress, compared to those reported in uniform BBLs, resulted in ‘ abnormally ’ low stress values.  相似文献   

3.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(7):573-588
Using shoreline water-level time series collected during 10 dynamically diverse field experiments, an empirical parameterization for extreme runup, defined by the 2% exceedence value, has been developed for use on natural beaches over a wide range of conditions. Runup, the height of discrete water-level maxima, depends on two dynamically different processes; time-averaged wave setup and total swash excursion, each of which is parameterized separately. Setup at the shoreline was best parameterized using a dimensional form of the more common Iribarren-based setup expression that includes foreshore beach slope, offshore wave height, and deep-water wavelength. Significant swash can be decomposed into the incident and infragravity frequency bands. Incident swash is also best parameterized using a dimensional form of the Iribarren-based expression. Infragravity swash is best modeled dimensionally using offshore wave height and wavelength and shows no statistically significant linear dependence on either foreshore or surf-zone slope. On infragravity-dominated dissipative beaches, the magnitudes of both setup and swash, modeling both incident and infragravity frequency components together, are dependent only on offshore wave height and wavelength. Statistics of predicted runup averaged over all sites indicate a − 17 cm bias and an rms error of 38 cm: the mean observed runup elevation for all experiments was 144 cm. On intermediate and reflective beaches with complex foreshore topography, the use of an alongshore-averaged beach slope in practical applications of the runup parameterization may result in a relative runup error equal to 51% of the fractional variability between the measured and the averaged slope.  相似文献   

4.
Torrey Pines State Beach, a site with large seasonal fluctuations in sand level, received a small shoreface beach fill (about 160,000 m3) in April 2001. The 600 m-long, flat-topped nourishment pad extended from a highway riprap revetment seaward about 60 m, terminating in a 2 m-tall vertical scarp. A 2.7 km alongshore span, centered on the nourishment region, was monitored prior to the nourishment and biweekly to monthly for the following 2 years. For the first 7 months after the nourishment, through fall 2001, significant wave heights were small, and the elevated beach fill remained in place, with little change near and above Mean Sea Level (MSL). In contrast, the shoreline accreted on nearby control beaches following a seasonal pattern common in southern California, reducing the elevation difference between the nourished and adjacent beaches. During the first winter storm (3 m significant wave height), the shoreline retreated rapidly over the entire 2.7 km survey reach, forming an alongshore-oriented sandbar in 3 to 4 m water depth [Seymour, R.J., Guza, R.T., O'Reilly, W., Elgar, S., 2004. Rapid erosion of a Southern California beach fill. Coastal Engineering 52 (2), 151–158.]. We show that the winter sandbar, most pronounced offshore of the nourishment, moved back onto the beach face during summer 2002 (following the usual seasonal pattern) and formed a wider beach above MSL at the site of the original nourishment than on the control beaches. Thus, the April 2001 shoreline nourishment was detectable until late fall 2002, persisting locally over a full seasonal cycle. In an extended 7-year time series, total sand volumes (summed between the back beach and 8 m water depth, over the entire 2.7 km reach) exhibit multi-year fluctuations of unknown origin that are twice as large as the nourishment volume.  相似文献   

5.
As part of the multidisciplinary programme BIOZAIRE devoted to studying deep-sea benthic ecosystems in the Gulf of Guinea, particulate input and its relationship with near-bottom hydrodynamics were monitored using long-term moorings from 2000 to early 2005. Particular attention was given to material input through the Congo (ex-Zaïre) submarine channel that extends 760 km from the Congo River mouth to the abyssal plain (>5100 m) near 6°S. Due to its direct connection to the Congo River, the Congo canyon and channel system are characterised by particularly active recent sediment transport. During this first in situ long-term monitoring along the channel, an energetic turbidity event was observed in January 2004 at three locations along the channel from 3420 to 4790 m in depth. This event tilted and displaced the moorings installed at 3420 m (site ZR′) and 4070 m (site ZD′), and resulted in high sediment deposition at all three mooring sites. The event moved at an average velocity of 3.5 m s−1 along the numerous channel meanders between 3420 and 4070 m, then at 0.7 m s−1 between 4070 m and the end of the channel at 4790 m. The particle cloud rose above the top of the valley at 4070 m (site ZD′), but not at 3420 m (site ZR′) where the channel was too deep. Lastly, the mooring line broke at site ZD′ in October 2004 probably due to a strong event like that of 2001 previously described by Khripounoff et al. [Khripounoff, A., Vangriesheim, A., Babonneau, N., Crassous, P., Denniellou, B., Savoye, B., 2003. Direct observation of intense turbidity activity in the Zaire submarine valley at 4000 m water depth. Marine Geology (194), 151–158]. Between these strong events, several peaks of high turbidity and particle flux occurred, but without noticeable current increases. These events were probably due to local sliding of sediment accumulated on the walls or terraces on the side of the channel. The area near 4000 m depth and the lobe appear to be the main depocentres of particulate input rich in organic matter derived from the Congo River.  相似文献   

6.
Biogeochemical cycles of N and Si were examined in the surface mixed layer during the mesoscale iron-enrichment (IE) experiment in the high-nutrient low-chlorophyll (HNLC) western subarctic Pacific (SEEDS-II). Although the IEs increased nitrate uptake, silicic acid utilization was not stimulated. The nitrate drawdown in the iron-patch (IN-patch, 140.3 mmol m−2 in the surface mixed layer, 0–30 m) was only 25% of the initial inventory, which was 1/3–2/5 of the previous IE experiments in the subarctic Pacific. This relatively weak response of nutrient drawdown to IEs was due to the high biomass of mesozooplankton (MZ) dominated by copepod Neocalanus plumchrus. Feeding of MZ (247.2 mmol m−2 during Day 0–21 from the first IE) in the IN-patch was higher than the nitrate drawdown and prevented further development of the phytoplankton bloom. In the later period of the experiment (Day 14–21), the increase in the feeding activity and resultant decrease in phytoplankton biomass induced the accumulation of dissolved organic nitrogen (DON) and ammonium. Among total growth of MZ (81.6 mmol N m−2), 89% (72.8 mmol N m−2) was transported to the depth by the ontogenetic downward migration of N. plumchrus. Although silicic acid drawdown was not increased by the IEs, Si export flux increased by 2.7 times. The increase in Si export was also due to the increase in MZ, which egested faecal pellets with higher Si:N ratio and faster sinking speed than diatoms. The export efficiency (78% of new production) and total amount of export flux (143.8 mmol N m−2, 1392 mmol C m−2) were highest records within the IE experiments despite weak responses of nutrient drawdown to the IE. During SEEDS-II, the high biomass of MZ reduced the phytoplankton response and nutrient drawdown to the IEs but via grazing and ontogenetic vertical migration accelerated the export flux as well as accumulations of dissolved forms of N. Results of the present and previous IE experiments indicate that the ecosystem and biogeochemical responses to IEs in the HNLC region are quite sensitive to the ecosystem components, especially for grazers of diatoms such as copepods and heterotrophic dinoflagellates. More attention needs to be paid to the ecosystem components and their biogeochemical functions as well as physical and chemical properties of the ecosystems in order to hindcast or forecast the impacts of changes in atmospheric iron deposition.  相似文献   

7.
Bonanza Canyon is a complex canyon system on the slope from the intermittently glaciated Grand Bank on the south side of Orphan Basin. A 3D seismic reflection volume, 2D high-resolution seismic reflection profiles and ten piston cores were acquired to study the evolution of this canyon system in relation to glacial processes on the continental shelf and the effects of different types of turbidity currents on the development of deep water channels. Mapped reflector surfaces from the 3D seismic volume show that the Bonanza Canyons developed in a depression created by a large submarine slide of middle Pleistocene age, coincident with the onset of glacigenic debris flows entering western Orphan Basin. Two 3–5 km wide, flat-floored channels were cut into the resulting mass-transport deposit and resemble catastrophic glacial meltwater channels elsewhere on the margin. Both channels subsequently aggraded. The eastern channel A became narrower but maintained a sandy channel floor. The western channel, B, heads at a spur on the continental slope and appears to have been rather passively draped by muds and minor sands that have built 1500-m wave length sediment waves.Muddy turbidites recorded by piston cores in the channel and on the inter-channel ridges are restricted to marine isotope stage (MIS) 2 and were deposited from thick, sheet-like, and sluggish turbidity current derived from western Orphan Basin that resulted in aggradation of the channels and inter-channel ridges. Sandy turbidites in channels and on inner levees were deposited throughout MIS 2–3 and were restricted to the channels, locally causing erosion. Some coincide with Heinrich events. Channels with well-developed distributaries on the upper slope more readily trap the sediments on Grand Bank to form sandy turbidity currents. Channel B dominated by muddy turbidity currents has wide and relatively smooth floor whereas channel A dominated by sandy turbidity currents has a sharp geometry.  相似文献   

8.
Indian River Inlet is located at roughly the mid-point of the Atlantic coast of Delaware and connects the ocean to two Delaware inland bays. Jetties constructed in 1940 have maintained the inlet for navigation purposes but have also acted as a barrier to net northerly alongshore sediment transport causing downdrift erosion. A mobile, land-based bypassing system was initiated in 1990 in an effort to counteract this erosion. Beach profile data from 1985 (pre-bypassing) until 2008 are used to investigate the effect of the sand bypassing system on beaches adjacent to the inlet. The downdrift beach experienced horizontal shoreline erosion between 10 and 60 m during the pre-bypassing period but accreted 10–20 m during the bypassing period. The mean shoreline location on the updrift beach during bypassing is 10–20 m landward (erosion) of its position during the pre-bypassing period. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) amplitudes from analyses performed on mean-removed elevation surfaces during the periods of highest bypassed volume (average of 83% of design rate) showed that the influence of the bypassing system on the downdrift beach extends to about 1500 m of the inlet. An EOF analysis showed that different morphologic responses were evident following the initiation of bypass operations. Temporal variations of shoreline and beach morphology were correlated to the temporal variations in bypassing rates on the downdrift beach only. The downdrift beach response was greatest near the inlet for larger bypassing volumes. Correlation in these instances occurred with a roughly 1-year time lag suggesting that the beach quickly redistributes the bypassed sand. EOF amplitude and shoreline response are weakly correlated to bypassed volumes when the system bypassed smaller volumes (average of 56% of design rate) of sand suggesting that there is a minimum bypassing rate, regardless of yearly variability, below which the effect on the downdrift beach is obscured.  相似文献   

9.
The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves.  相似文献   

10.
Besides the different scales within which coastal processes manifest their energy, the majority of the world's coastal regions exhibit forms of sediment heterogeneity that are physically significant. One example of a heterogeneous environment is Cassino beach, located at the southernmost part of Brazil, a fine-grain-sized sandy beach where fluid mud sporadically is transported to the nearshore and eventually onto the beach. At this site in 2005, as part of a field experiment, a video system was installed. Three years after the installation, a large mud transgression event took place in February 2008 and had 5 km of extension. In this context, the goal of the present work is to characterize the mud deposition pattern across the surf zone, describing the consequences of mud on nearshore dynamics using remote sensing techniques, beach profiles and suspended matter concentration. The surveyed beach profiles registered the deposition of fluid mud at the inner surf zone with concentrations up to 12 mg/l. The material was deposited close to the shoreline and had a cross-shore width of 100 m during the first deposition day occupying the entire water column. From surf zone time series of pixel intensity, it was possible to detect the attenuation of the surface wave spectra due to the presence of fluid mud. The combination of video techniques and field data allowed one to follow the formation of a double-layer system, where fluid mud overlays the sandy bottom. The video-based system at Cassino demonstrated that remote detection of fluid mud and quantification of its effect on the nearshore dynamics is feasible. The combination of beach profiles, measurements of suspended matter concentration and intensity timestacks allowed the analysis of the short-term evolution of the mud depositional processes.  相似文献   

11.
Anomalous morphological features within large estuaries may be: (1) recorders of external forces that periodically overwhelm the normal morphodynamic responses to estuarine energy fluxes, and (2) possible predictors of cycles of future coastal change. At the entrance to Willapa Bay, Washington, chronic beach erosion and frequent coastal flooding are related to the historical northward channel migration that destroyed the protective sand spits of Cape Shoalwater. Northward channel migration since the late 1800s conforms to the long-term net sediment transport direction. What requires explanation is periodic southward relocation of the trunk channel by as much as 5 km, and attendant construction of moderately large sand spits on the north side of the bay such as Kindred Island, Tokeland Peninsula, and Cape Shoalwater.Both autocyclic and allocyclic processes may have been responsible for trunk channel realignment and associated spit deposition. Channel recycling may occur when the main channel becomes overextended to the north and the tidal flow is inefficient because of its decreased gradient and increased susceptibility to shoaling by the growth and migration of tidal sand ridges. Under those conditions trunk channel relocation would be facilitated by increased wave heights and water levels of El Niño winter storms. However, co-seismic subsidence is the most likely mechanism for abruptly increasing sand supply and longshore transport that would favor discrete periods of channel relocation and spit deposition. Unless external forcing changes sand supply and predominant sediment transport directions in the future, the relative rise in sea level, frequent winter storms, and local deficit in the sand budget assure that beach erosion will continue at the mouth of this large estuary.  相似文献   

12.
The impacts of a beach seine fishery on macroinvertebrate communities and sediment characteristics were investigated in the Southwest Caspian Sea. Samples from a single impacted site that was regularly seined were compared with two control sites outside the fishing area. Benthic macroinvertebrates were sampled on four occasions: 6 months prior to the opening of the beach seine fishery (Time 1), 1 day immediately after the closing of beach seining (Time 2), 1 week after closing (Time 3), and 1 month after closing (Time 4). No significant differences were detected in total density, Shannon diversity, or evenness of the macroinvertebrate assemblages between impact and control sites. Unlike density, species richness increased significantly immediately after fishery closure at all sites. A significant difference was detected in the number of species between Time 2 and Time 3 at all sites and the number of species was reduced at Time 4 in all sites. Pontogammarids increased by twofold in the impact site 1 day immediately after closing beach seine fishery and leveled off toward the end of the closed season. The amplified density of pontogammarids 1 day after fishery closing at the impact site might be driven in part by an increase in sediment oxygen content resulting from disturbance of the sea floor. An alternative explanation is that the effect of fish predation on pontogammarids has largely been minimized at the impact site after 6 months of continuous fishing activity. No significant changes in the sedimentary organic content and chlorophyll‐a between the impact and control sites were observed during the courses of sampling; however, a significant change occurred between the average sedimentary pheopigment content of the control sites and that of the impact site. The conclusion from the present study is that beach seine fishery does not harm to benthic communities. The closed season also seemed to allow recovery to pre‐season levels of macroinvertebrate richness and sedimentary chlorophyll‐a.  相似文献   

13.
14.
The biomass of reproductive litter from Posidonia oceanica deposited on a 3.5 km stretch of beach in the north-western Mediterranean, as a consequence of a storm in May 2004, was quantified. The damage caused by this storm to the meadow from which fruits originated was evaluated in terms of loss of seed production. Intermediate fruits (i.e., developing fruits) were the most important reproductive component, followed by immature and damaged fruits. No fully mature fruits were found. No significant differences in the average number of fruits and biomass accumulated were detected among beach sections hundreds of metres apart. Extrapolation of the results at four beach sections indicated that about 1 million fruits were deposited on the entire (3.5 km) beach. This was equivalent to the seed production potential of about 313,217 inflorescences, or a flowered area of 1500 m2. The organic input to the beach was 224 kg ash-free dry weight (AFDM). These results suggest that storms may provide an unpredictable source of seed mortality in P. oceanica. The reproductive material produced by storms, however, may constitute an important source of allochthonous organic matter to the beach.  相似文献   

15.
16.
The Middle to Upper Jurassic Todagin assemblage in northwestern British Columbia, Canada, was deposited in the Bowser Basin above arc-related rocks of the Stikine terrane. Sedimentary structures indicate that a variety of gravity flow processes were involved in transport and deposition in deep-water slope environments. At Mount Dilworth, laterally continuous and channelized turbidites are interbedded with and overlain by mass-transport deposits in which sedimentary clasts are supported in a mudstone matrix. More than 50% of the succession consists of mass-transport deposits, indicating significant slope instability. A 300 m thick mass-transport complex exposed near the top of the succession is interpreted to result from tectonic activity, which triggered a major change in sediment supply from a local source area. At Todagin Mountain, a channel complex displays three successive channel-fills with associated overbank sedimentation units. Mass-transport deposits are rare, and confined to channel axes. Channels 1 and 2 are characterized by 40-50 m thick, ungraded pebble clast-supported conglomerate while the uppermost Channel 3 contains graded beds and occasional traction structures. The gradual change from erosive and amalgamated channel deposits at the base, to more aggradational channels at the top, is related to elevation of the equilibrium profile. Creation of accommodation favored aggradation on the mud-dominated slope succession and construction of well-developed channel-levee systems. The vertical succession exposed at Todagin Mountain is consistent with normal progradation of the slope under high sedimentation rates. In the Mount Dilworth area, extensional faulting associated with development of the restricted Eskay rift in the early Middle Jurassic produced a dissected basement above which the Todagin assemblage was deposited. These structures were inverted during collision of the Stikine and Cache Creek terranes, and likely played a major role in the stratigraphic evolution of the deep-water architectures.  相似文献   

17.
渤海、黄海沿岸主要港湾大振幅假潮成因的天气学分析   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
对渤海、黄海主要港湾发生的振幅大于50cm(龙口港湾取振幅大于80cm)的65次假潮过程与地面天气图进行对比分析,着重分析了伴随大振幅假潮过程的天气形势.分析结果表明:(1)龙口港湾22次大振幅假潮中有19次与雷暴天气(其中有3次伴随有飑线,1次还伴有龙卷)有关,2次与大风天气有关,1次由外海雷暴引起;因此得出雷暴、飑线是引起大振幅假潮的主要原因;雷暴强弱和持续时间长短变化,导致假潮振幅大小及持续时间长短变化;雷暴的季节变化引起大振幅假潮的季节变化;雷暴发生的局地性导致假潮出现的局地性;雷暴传播方向的不同引起大振幅假潮的周期不同.(2)北方气旋型和江淮气旋及西南倒槽型这两种天气类型有利于产生雷暴,并导致大振幅假潮的发生.这两类型分别占62个例的468%和177%.  相似文献   

18.
In May of 2005, an observational program was carried out to investigate the along channel hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport patterns at North Inlet, South Carolina. Along channel variability, which is important in establishing sediment transport pathways, has not been characterized for this system. Measurements of water column currents, salinity, bed sediment, suspended sediment concentration, and particle size distribution were obtained over a complete tidal cycle along the thalweg of the inlet entrance. Along channel currents, shear stress and bed sediment distributions vary significantly in space and time along a 3 km section bracketing the inlet throat. Most of the variability is consistent with geomorphic controls such as bed elevation variability and channel width. The highest velocities, shear stresses, suspended sediment concentration and bed sediment grain size are observed in the narrowest section of the inlet throat. Magnitudes systematically decrease along the channel toward the marsh as changes in channel geometry and branching reduces flow energy. Due to tidal asymmetry, the ebb phase contains significantly higher currents and associated sediment transport. Over the complete tidal cycle, depth integrated transport is directed towards the marsh landward of the intersection of Town and Debidue Creek. In contrast, net transport is out of the inlet seaward of this intersection. Sediment grain size distributions show 35% more material less than 63 μm on flood, suggesting net landward transport of fines.  相似文献   

19.
This paper presents new laboratory experiments carried out in a supertank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m) of breaking solitary waves evolution on a 1:60 plane beach. The measured data are employed to re-examine existing formulae that include breaking criterion, amplitude evolution and run-up height. The properties of shoreline motion, underwater particle velocity and scale effect on run-up height are briefly discussed. Based on our analyses, it is evidently found that there exist five zones during a wave amplitude evolution course on the present mild slope. A simple formula which is capable of predicting maximum run-up height for a breaking solitary wave on a uniform beach with a wide range of beach slope (1:15–1:60) is also proposed. The calculated results from the present model agree favorably with available laboratory data, indicating that our method is compatible with other predictive models.  相似文献   

20.
Faults with a well-defined strike direction that precisely coincides with the southern rift fault system occur in the study area in southern Tenerife. This fault system was generated contemporaneously with a chain of cinder cones ~948 ka. Open fractures in ignimbrites (~668 ka) and fossil beach deposits (~42 ka) of the El Médano area suggest that the rift-associated fault system was seismically active in the aftermath of the initial volcanic activity (~948 ka) and is probably still active. A second fault system striking perpendicular to the rift-related faults probably originates from a Holocene paleoearthquake of moderate intensity. Earthquake-induced ground effects in fossil beach deposits within the study area are consistent with seismically induced ground effects of several recent and well-documented earthquakes, as well as gravitational sliding triggered by an intense earthquake in the Nicoya Peninsula of Costa Rica in 1990. Both, the rift-associated and the earthquake-induced fault system, initially produced open fractures that were occupied by plants and subsequently stabilized by cementation, forming conspicuous sediment structures in fossil beach deposits of the El Médano site in southern Tenerife.  相似文献   

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