共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 15 毫秒
1.
Three models were applied to analyse the planform of bay-shaped Portuguese beaches. They are based on empirical mathematical functions: the logarithmic spiral bay equation, the hyperbolic-tangent bay equation, and the parabolic bay equation. These models were applied to analyse the fitting to the beach planform of 42 beaches on the Portuguese Atlantic coast which was calculated through the validation against the waterline extracted from rectified aerial photographs. The logarithmic spiral model fits well the curved zone of the beaches, in particular small beaches with two headlands. Despite the good fitting of the hyperbolic-tangent model for one headland beach, its process of approximation to the solution was less intuitive than the processes of the other two models, therefore its application was more exhaustive. A comparative analysis between the logarithmic spiral model and the hyperbolic-tangent model revealed the best fit of the first. The application of the parabolic model allowed to conclude that despite the majority of the beaches analysed being in dynamic equilibrium condition due to the high energy wave regime of the Portuguese Atlantic coast, their planform was very close to the planform in static equilibrium condition due to the high dynamics of the coastal environment. 相似文献
2.
The equilibrium planform concept (EPC) for bayed beaches has achieved wide currency in coastal morphodynamics. The north coast of Ireland comprises a series of discrete headland-embayment beaches within which waves and currents recycle a finite sediment volume. It is therefore an ideal setting in which to explore the applicability of the concept. Application of the approach to 9 embayment beaches on the north coast of Ireland provides some insights into the application of the concept. The planform of some beaches does correspond to that predicted while others do not. Those whose measured planform does not correspond to the predicted planform can be interpreted through, (a) difficulty in identifying the wave diffraction point, (b) disequilibrium on the beach (sediment scarcity or excess), (c) geological control of beach morphology. The subjectivity in selecting the diffraction point renders alternative explanations difficult and reduces the utility of the approach on natural shorelines, where significant irregularities render identification of such points difficult. 相似文献
3.
The equation most commonly used to describe the bay planform was proposed by Hsu and Evans (1989) and it was obtained through empirical analysis of sand beach planforms.In the last decade interest in gravel sediments increased owing to their greater stability on beaches, compared with sand sediments. Due to the differences between the morphodynamics of sand and gravel beaches, which is strictly influenced by their different hydraulic characteristics, it was necessary to create a predictive instrument for this beach type as well.Therefore, in this study the standard Hsu and Evans equation (1989) was modified in order to make it applicable not only to sand beaches but also to gravel beaches. The shoreline was computed according to a parabolic model in polar coordinates whose coefficients are considered linearly dependent on the wave direction and related to the beach type. The estimation of the free parameters of the model was performed according to a statistical analysis of a shorelines data set of Mediterranean sand and gravel embayed beaches. 相似文献
4.
Headland-bay beach equilibrium planform has been a crucial problem abroad to long-term sandy beach evolution and stabilization,extensively applied to forecast long-term coastal erosion evolvement and the influences of coastal engineering as well as long-term coastal management and protection.However,little concern focuses on this in China.The parabolic relationship is the most widely used empirical relationship for determining the static equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches.This paper utilizes the relation to predict and classify 31 headland-bay beaches and concludes that these bays cannot achieve the ultimate static equilibrium planform in South China.The empirical bay equation can morphologically estimate beach stabilization state,but it is just a referential predictable means and is difficult to evaluate headland-bay shoreline movements in years and decades.By using Digital Shoreline Analysis System suggested by USGS,the rates of shoreline recession and accretion of these different headland-bay beaches are quantitatively calculated from 1990 to 2000.The conclusions of this paper include that (a) most of these 31 bays maintain relatively stable and the rates of erosion and accretion are relatively large with the impact of man-made constructions on estuarine within these bays from 1990 to 2000;(b) two bays,Haimen Bay and Hailingshan Bay,originally in the quasi-static equilibrium planform determined by the parabolic bay shape equation,have been unstable by the influence of coastal engineering;and (c) these 31 bays have different recession and accretion characters occurring in some bays and some segments.On the one hand,some bays totally exhibit accretion,but some bays show erosion on the whole.Shanwei Bay,Houmen Bay,Pinghai Bay and Yazhou Bay have the similar planforms,characterized by less accretion on the sheltering segment and bigger accretion on the transitional and tangential segments.On the other hand,different segments of some bays have two dissimilar evolvement characters.Dacheng Bay,Shenquan Bay,Hudong Bay,Wukan Bay,Fengjia Bay,Wuchang Bay,Lingshui Bay and Tufu Bay produce accretion on the tangential segment,erosion on the transitional segment and accretion on the sheltering segment.However,Guang’ao Bay,Haimen Bay,Jinghai Bay,Sanya Bay(a),Dajiao Bay,Hailingshan Bay,Hebei Bay,Fuhu Bay,Shuidong Bay,Wangcun Bay and Bomao Bay generate erosion on the tangential part,accretion on the transitional part and accretion on the sheltering part.It seems to imply some relations between headland-bay beach evolvement and controls on headland-bay beaches,which may possibly to classify headland-bay beach types and should be further studied. 相似文献
5.
Sutat Weesakul Thamnoon Rasmeemasmuang Somruthai Tasaduak Chanon Thaicharoen 《Coastal Engineering》2010
A numerical model is developed to compute the shoreline planform in a crenulate bay beach. The new model combines polar and Cartesian coordinates and can be used effectively to compute a hooked zone shoreline in the lee of upcoast headland. The model is calibrated using laboratory data with an incident wave angle ranging from 25° to 60°. The results of calibration and verification suggest that the ratio of the sediment transport parameters by wave and longshore current in this model is close to unity, and the computed shoreline planforms for the hooked and unhooked zones are in good agreement with the ones measured, especially when a bay is close to static equilibrium. In addition, the bay shape calculated by the present model is similar to that given by the well-known empirical parabolic equation for a bay in static equilibrium. The process of bay shape development from a straight beach to a static equilibrium bay is studied using laboratory experiments and the present numerical model. The temporal variations in the computed longshore sediment transport at different locations within a bay beach are analyzed. From this the decrease in the sediment transport becomes apparent while a bay beach changes its shape from straight toward a state of equilibrium. Based on this experience, it may be concluded that the present numerical model can produce a temporal change in the shoreline planform of a crenulate bay beach from a transition state to static equilibrium subject to seasonal wave action. 相似文献
6.
Headland-bay beaches are a typical feature of many of the world's coastlines. Their curved planform has aroused much interest since the early days of Coastal Engineering. Modelling this characteristic planform is a task of great interest, not least in relation to projects of coastal structures whose effects on the shoreline must be studied from the planning stages. In this work, Artificial Intelligence is applied to this task—in particular, artificial neural networks (ANNs). Unlike conventional planform models, they are not based on a given mathematical expression of the shoreline curve. Instead, they learn from experience (from a number of training cases) how the planform of a headland-bay beach is shaped, with due regard to the obliquity of incident waves. Three artificial neural networks, with different input/output structures, are implemented and subsequently trained with a number of bays. Once trained, they are tested for validation on other headland-bay beaches. Finally, the most performing neural network is compared with a state-of-the-art planform model. 相似文献
7.
Headland-bay beach (HBB) is one of the most prominent physiographic features on the oceanic margin of many countries in the world. Under the influence of a predominant swell, its curved periphery in natural environment may reach static equilibrium and remains stable without sediment supply from updrift and/or a riverain source within its own embayment. Coastal scientists and engineers have attempted to develop mathematical expressions to quantify this ideal bay shape since the 1940s. As the scenario with depleting sediment supply has become a common reality on many parts of the world coastline in more recent time, some coastal engineers have advocated a rational approach to mimicking the static bay shape found in nature in order to mitigate beach erosion as well as for coastal management. Nowadays, many useful applications have emerged since the publication of the parabolic bay shape equation (PBSE) developed for static equilibrium planform (SEP) in late 1980s. The advance in modern computer technologies and international collaboration has further facilitated the exchange of knowledge and applications of this static bay beach concept (SBBC). 相似文献
8.
深圳大鹏半岛南岸西冲海滩的沉积物来源、平面形态稳定性及横向变化 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The coast of the Dapeng Peninsula has been honored as one of "the eight most beautiful coasts in China". The most precious tourism resource for the peninsula is headland bay beaches, among which the beach at Xichong on the southern coast of the peninsula is the longest and the most important one. The information of the stability, sedimentary source and shape change of the beach is very important for maintaining the beach in terms of sustainable development of the peninsula. Heavy minerals in the sand of the beach and the inland stream at Xichong are compared with those of a nearby beach on the same coast to determine the beach sand source; with help of a computer software, MEPBAY, the equilibrium planforms of the beaches on the peninsula are compared with those of an island without rivers to evaluate the stream’s effects on the beach stability; cross shore profiles along the Xichong beach are also surveyed in different seasons of a year to assess the annual shore normal beach changes affected by the stream input, and the relation between the equilibrium planform state and cross shore changes of the beach. It is shown that(1) stream is the main sedimentary source of the beach and the weathering materials of the rocky headlands on both sides of the bay transported by waves are the second source for the beach but it is limited, sand from an inner shelf is not the sedimentary source for the beach at present and was not even during the Holocene transgression;(2) the Xichong beach cannot reach static equilibrium around the entire bay shoreline, the segment of the shoreline where a stream outlet is located is in dynamic equilibrium, and the unstable section occurs in the wave shadow region in the lee of an offshore island;(3) no matter whether the section of the beach shoreline at Xichong is in an equilibrium state or not, it is eroded in the typhoon season and recovered after the season, the maximum change in erosion and accretion occurs in the unstable segment;(4) the Xichong beach can only have small sand body since it is supplied with sand mainly form inland streams, resulting in a possible danger in which sand loss induced by human activities or huge storms cannot be replenished naturally. 相似文献
9.
10.
An engineering application tool for prediction of the static equilibrium bay(Beach Mod)is established to describe two bay shape formulas by use of the programming software "MATLAB" with a graphic user interface(GUI).The tool is user-friendly for engineering students for the design of beach shapes.This tool was tested through application on three types of beaches in Taiwan and Australia.By implementing the concept of Headland Control,the Beach Mod program allows users to draw a structure and create an artificial headland.The results indicate that Beach Mod can efficiently forecast beach changes as well as MEPBAY,a competing software package,while boasting a better user interface. 相似文献
11.
12.
对应用约瑟夫-新德那模式进行海湾水环境影响预测中存在的问题作了初步分析,海域水流、混合深度值的选取及特殊污染物的存在等是影响预测结果准确性的主要因素。潮流憩流状态时,污染物的迁移扩散主要取决于污染物的混合速度,污染物基本上以近似于半圆形呈π弧度的角度向水体混合扩散,预测结果与污染物实际迁移扩散状况大致吻合;潮流非憩流或大部分时间为非憩流状态时,海域水流对污染物的迁移扩散影响较大,混合角度与海流流速成反比,污染物向水体扩散的实际混合角度要小于π弧度,预测的结果与污染物实际迁移扩散状况存在较大差距。海域水流对污染物迁移距离产生很大影响,水流愈大,污染物迁移的距离就愈远。混合深度的取值也直接关系到预测结果的准确性,若按可能受影响范围海域的平均水深值作为混合深度取值,其预测结果要比水深取2m时的预测结果更接近真实状况。对已达标排放的废水进行影响预测时,结果与实际情况接近,而对高浓度石油类的废水含量的影响预测却与实际情况差异极大。 相似文献
13.
海南万宁岬湾海岸海滩稳定性研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
岬湾海岸海滩的稳定性及其演变是砂质海岸研究的重要内容。基于多期遥感影像、海滩沉积物粒度分布,并采用岬湾海滩平衡形态模型(MEPBAY),分析探讨了海南岛东部万宁4个典型岬湾海岸海滩的稳定性及其模型的应用。研究表明,除东澳湾凸角处于不稳定状态,其余海岸处于静态或准静态平衡状态;岬湾海滩沉积物粒度在遮蔽段和开敞段有明显的差异,相邻海滩之间没有明显的泥沙交换,每个岬湾海滩都是相对独立的地貌单元;模型中上岬角控制点选取应考虑岛礁及水下礁坪;抛物线模型可以拓展应用于有离岸岛情况下的海湾。研究成果可为岬湾海滩的稳定性评估和管理提供科学依据。 相似文献
14.
J. Boeyinga D.W. Dusseljee A.D. Pool P. Schoutens F. Verduin B.N.M. van Zwicht A.H.F. Klein 《Coastal Engineering》2010
This paper presents a case study on the modelling of a headland bay beach influenced by sediment input from migrating coastal dunes. The study area is the region around the town of Ingleses on Santa Catarina Island, Santa Catarina state, South-Eastern Brazil. Ingleses has been threatened by nature at two different fronts. At the north-eastern side of the town lies Ingleses Beach, a headland bay beach which seems to be subject to persistent erosion in recent years. On the south-western side the town is threatened by a migrating dunefield, which is encroaching onto houses and infrastructure, but which has not reached the beach in the past 70 years. A second dunefield in the area does not pose a direct threat to the town, but passes it on the eastern side and forms an important influence on the development of the beach. The sediment influx rate from this dunefield to the beach is 10,000 m3/year. To investigate the effect of the dunefields on the morphodynamic system, a numerical model has been created using the software packages SWAN and UNIBEST and the static equilibrium bay shape was determined by the software package MEPBAY. The result of the long-term scenario as predicted by UNIBEST agrees rather well with the static equilibrium bay shape found with MEPBAY. This provides sounds basis for the credibility of both models. Consequently, the predicted evolutional trend of the shoreline seems plausible. 相似文献
15.
本文以丁字湾等基岩海湾为例，论述了黄渤海沿岸海湾－溺谷型潮汐汉道的地貌结构，尤其着重于口门段深槽及涨、落潮三角洲。认为涨、落潮三角洲的发育状况与入湾河流的供沙量、纳潮水域容量、被浪作用、潮差以及口少卜海域的开阔程度有关；泻湖型潮汐汉道的落潮三角洲的典型模式可以应用于海湾－溺谷型潮汐汉道，但涨潮三角洲因受基岩海湾的复杂岸线的限制而不能充分发育。本文还讨论了海湾型潮汐汉道与半开敞海湾在动力和形态中的差异。 相似文献
16.
Antonio H.F. Klein Óscar Ferreira Joao M.A. Dias Moyses G. Tessler Lucas F. Silveira Lindino Benedet Joao T. de Menezes Jose G.N. de Abreu 《Coastal Engineering》2010
This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and São Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay–headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range). 相似文献
17.
本文引入数值化海湾健康理论,提出三维数值化海湾健康评估方法以评估和预测海湾健康动态。选用五个指标组用以构建数值化海湾健康指标体系,包括地理指标组、水动力和泥沙动态指标组、生态指标组、水质指标组和社会经济指标组,用以评估自然过程和社会经济对海湾健康的影响。每一指标组中包括不同数量的二级指标。根据二级指标的不同重要性,运用层次分析法对其赋予不同的权重。指标的数据来源于三维数值模型和观测数据。三维数值模型能够为海湾健康评估提供更加全面、完整和详细的数据,并且可以提供预测数据。以乐清湾为例,数值化海湾健康评估方法成功应用于其健康评估过程。基于评估结果,乐清湾口门处表层水体的地理环境是健康的,水动力过程和泥沙动态过程属于亚健康状态,水质和生态环境处于不健康状态。总体而言,乐清湾的海湾健康评估结果为亚健康状态。 相似文献
18.
This note explains a technique used for pre-processing three-dimensional survey data obtained at embayed beaches that exhibit distinct alongshore curvature. Using a log-spiral function fitted to the beach planform, the data is transformed from Cartesian into an alternative alongshore–cross-shore coordinate system. When undergoing this transformation, the curvature in the survey data is effectively removed. This greatly simplifies the application of standard interpolation methods, and in this transformed coordinate system the alongshore and cross-shore directions are now explicitly defined. Using a property unique to the log-spiral, the interpolated data is readily transformed back into the original Cartesian coordinate system for further analyses and interpretation. The practical application and advantages of this technique are then demonstrated using survey data from two embayed beaches in south-eastern Australia. 相似文献
19.
Karl F. Nordstrom 《Marine Geology》1977,25(4):333-342
The purpose of this paper is to compare the differences between oceanside and bayside beaches. Field data on twelve beach process and response variables were gathered from February 1972 to April 1973 on four sample beaches at Sandy Hook Spit, New Jersey. Linear correlation is used to identify the most influential process variables and determine how the interrelationships among variables differ on each beach. The analysis confirms the importance of breaker height, wave steepness and wind direction on beach response. The correlation of beach processes with their associated responses are higher on the oceanside than on the bayside beaches, indicating that local, non-storm waves may be relatively insignificant in effecting substantial beach modification.Despite the greater magnitude of processes and beach change on the oceanside sites, erosion was more persistent on the bayside during the period of study. The frequent occurrence of short, steep erosional waves on the bayside prevented onshore movement of sediment between storms, resulting in a permanent loss of material from the beach face and dune. On the oceanside, long, low, depositional waves occurring between storms replenished most of the material carried away during the storm. This fresh beach material acted as a buffer against the erosion of the dunes during the following storm.The dominant bay waves are locally generated and may therefore be simulated using meteorological variables. However, the low wave energies on the bayside sites result in an increase in the relative importance of tidal currents, wind-induced currents, and refracted ocean swell. These factors complicate the application of simplified wave process—beach response models to the study of beaches exposed to these effects. 相似文献
20.
广西钦州湾外湾表层沉积硅藻分布特征 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
本文对钦州湾外湾54个表层沉积物中硅藻进行分析,鉴定出硅藻153种,分属50属。其中Thalassionema nitzschioides是本区域内最为丰富的硅藻种类。对应分析结果表明,钦州湾表层沉积硅藻分布主要受到海水盐度的影响,其中淡水硅藻Achnanthes delicatula、A.hauckiana、A.levanderi和Cocconeis disculus可以作为低盐度海水环境的指示种,半咸水种Cyclotella striata/C.stylorum、Paralia sulcata与海洋中硅藻Thalassionema frauenfeldii、T.nitzschioides则可以很好的指示高盐度环境。钦州湾外湾54个表层沉积站位可划分为3个硅藻分布区,分别对应高低不同的海水盐度,与实际站位地理分布基本一致。 相似文献