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1.
The prediction of near-shore morphology on the time scale of a storm event and the length scale of a few surf zone widths is an active area of research. Intense wave breaking drives offshore-directed currents (undertow) carrying sediment seawards, resulting in offshore bar migration. In contrast, higher order nonlinear properties, such as wave asymmetry (velocity skewness) and velocity asymmetry, are drivers for shoreward transport. These wave processes are included in phase-resolving models such as Boussinesq-type wave models (e.g., TRITON). Short-wave averaging in the wave model yields wave-induced forces (e.g., radiation stress gradients) and a wave asymmetry term. The wave-induced forces are used in a hydrostatic model (e.g., Delft3D flow module) to drive the current and undertow, resulting in a 3D velocity profile. The wave model and hydrostatic model are coupled online with a morphodynamic model (e.g., Delft3D morphology module). The latter computes, based on the 3D flow profile and the wave asymmetry term, the sediment transport and performs the bathymetry updates. The updates are transferred directly back to the hydrodynamic models. The coupling of the wave model TRITON and the Delft3D modules is validated by comparing against extensive laboratory data sets (LIP and Boers) and a field case (Duck94), and show a good performance for the hydrodynamics and a reasonable/fair performance for the bar movements. 相似文献
2.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,37(1):37-56
The seasonal closure of tidal inlets is a common and important coastal phenomena. However, studies which have been specifically geared to identify processes governing seasonal inlet closure are almost non-existent. Hence, this study was undertaken to gain insight into processes governing seasonal inlet closure. To determine the processes governing this phenomenon, Wilson Inlet, Western Australia, a typical seasonally open tidal inlet is taken as a case study. The study comprised of a field experiment over the summer of 1995, and a numerical modeling exercise employing a morphodynamic model. Results of the field study imply that longshore processes may not be the cause of inlet closure, but that onshore sediment transport due to persistent swell wave conditions in summer may govern seasonal closure of the inlet. Application of a morphodynamic model, which includes both cross-shore and longshore processes, to Wilson Inlet conclusively shows that seasonal closure of the inlet is due to onshore sediment transport under typical summer conditions. The effects of summer streamflow and storm events, which are not uncommon, are also examined using the morphodynamic model. The effect of both streamflow and storm events on the `open duration' of the inlet is shown to be dependent on the intensity and timing of the event. 相似文献
3.
Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/wsT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/wsT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/wsT, promoting erosion. 相似文献
4.
The uncertainty associated with simulations of process-based coastal area morphodynamic models is assessed through numerical experimentation. Appropriate metrics of uncertainty are defined based on the standard deviation of the model results at each location and each time step. Uncertainty is examined using a set of realistic one year morphodynamic simulations of the evolution of a highly dynamic tidal inlet. Results indicate that uncertainty increases linearly with time, and suggest that its rate grows with increasing sediment fluxes. Hence, the limits of predictability of morphodynamic model applications are higher for slowly varying systems. Attempts to reduce uncertainty by aggregating model results at larger spatial scales met with limited success. Ensemble simulations are suggested as a possible avenue to investigate the long-term evolution of tidal inlets using process-based models. 相似文献
5.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(4):363-379
Low crested structures for beach defence purposes are frequently configured in the form of cells. This paper investigates the hydrodynamic and morphological response of such defence schemes by means of laboratory experiments and numerical simulations.Experiments were carried out at the large mobile-bed basin of the “Laboratorio di Idraulica Costiera” of the “Politecnico di Bari”, IT. Tests peculiarity is the simultaneous simulation of three different types of lateral confinement: a channel, representative of an indefinitely long structure, and two areas with narrow and wide gaps, representative of a common scheme and of an almost isolated structure respectively. Submerged, zero freeboard and emerged conditions were tested. A typical storm of the Northern Adriatic sea was reproduced by 6 wave attacks.Water level and currents were measured in front and behind the structures, at gaps and roundheads. Results, focusing on rip current intensities and piling-up, are presented and discussed. An extensive plan view of wave intensities and flow patterns inside the basin is provided through numerical simulations with MIKE 21 numerical suite.The sand bed was surveyed along 30 profiles covering the narrow gap area and the isolated structure roundheads. For the submerged conditions tests, 15 of these profiles and the shoreline position were monitored after each step of the simulated storm.Average and maximum values of local erosion at the structure toe are presented. Time evolution of erosion at gaps is related to the main hydrodynamic variables through Bijker sediment transport formula. Evaluation of volume changes in the protected area shows that sand is in average trapped behind the barriers, being transported offshore from gaps and returning inshore over the crest. The observed and reconstructed transport mechanism is a combination of bed load and suspended transport, the latter being slightly more important.Bed level changes are well predicted by morphodynamic simulations performed with MIKE 21 CAMS. 相似文献
6.
This paper investigates the use of data assimilation in coastal area morphodynamic modelling using Morecambe Bay as a study site. A simple model of the bay has been enhanced with a data assimilation scheme to better predict large-scale changes in bathymetry observed in the bay over a 3-year period. The 2DH decoupled morphodynamic model developed for the work is described, as is the optimal interpolation scheme used to assimilate waterline observations into the model run. Each waterline was acquired from a SAR satellite image and is essentially a contour of the bathymetry at some level within the inter-tidal zone of the bay. For model parameters calibrated against validation observations, model performance is good, even without data assimilation. However the use of data assimilation successfully compensates for a particular failing of the model, and helps to keep the model bathymetry on track. It also improves the ability of the model to predict future bathymetry. Although the benefits of data assimilation are demonstrated using waterline observations, any observations of morphology could potentially be used. These results suggest that data assimilation should be considered for use in future coastal area morphodynamic models. 相似文献
7.
均衡态:动力-沉积-地貌系统的跨尺度联系 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
潮汐汊道P-A关系、岸线轮廓、浅海沙波剖面轮廓等3个海洋动力地貌学案例，属于能够同时满足"沿程能耗率处处相等，输沙率沿程递变处处相等，沉积速率处处相等"规律的动力-沉积-地貌系统均衡态。这种在流体力学、沉积动力学和动力地貌学时空尺度跨度很大的交集中涌现的均衡态，为引导出动力-沉积-地貌系统跨尺度联系，实现动力-沉积-地貌系统的跨尺度模拟，留下宝贵的理论研究与应用检验窗口。 相似文献
8.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,37(1):1-36
Seasonally open tidal inlets usually occur in microtidal, wave-dominated coastal environments where strong seasonal variations of streamflow and wave climate are experienced. These inlets are closed to the ocean for a number of months every year due to the formation of sand bars across their entrances. The annual closure of these inlets inhibits ocean access for boats and could also cause deterioration of water quality in the estuary/lagoon connected to the inlet. As these estuaries/lagoons are commonly used as harbours or recreational facilities there is increased interest in keeping the inlets permanently open. A process-based numerical model capable of simulating inlet closure is invaluable in terms of identifying the natural processes governing inlet closure. As a further step, this type of model could also be used to determine the effect of any proposed engineering solutions to keep the inlet open on the adjacent beaches. A morphodynamic model capable of simulating the seasonal closure of inlets, which includes both longshore (LST) and cross-shore transport (CST) processes, was developed in this study. Application of the model to two idealised scenarios indicated that cross-shore processes govern inlet behaviour when LST rates were low. The Dean's criterion [Dean, R.G., 1973. Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone. Proc. Conf. on Eng. Dynamics in the Surf Zone, Sydney, pp. 208–214.] for on–offshore transport was employed to show that, for small offshore wave incidence angles, onshore transport aided inlet closure when the offshore wave steepness (Ho/Lo) was less than the critical wave steepness (Ho/Lo)crit, while offshore transport helped to keep the inlet open when (Ho/Lo) was greater than (Ho/Lo)crit. LST was found to be the dominant process leading to inlet closure when (Ho/Lo) was much larger than (Ho/Lo)crit or when the offshore wave incidence angle was large. 相似文献
9.
We investigate the hydrodynamic effects and morphodynamic impact of large-scale offshore sand extraction, for a variety of pit designs. We use a process-based idealized model for flow, sediment transport and bed evolution in a tide-dominated environment. Legislation and other practical considerations motivate our assumption that sandpits are both wide (horizontal dimensions of the order of kilometres) and shallow (the ratio of pit depth to water depth being small). This results in a semi-analytical tool that, unlike previous studies, enables a quick and extensive study into the effects of varying the physical characteristics as well as the pit design parameters. These parameters include pit length, width, and orientation with respect to the tide. 相似文献
10.
If wave energy is to become a fully-fledged renewable, its environmental impacts must be fully understood. The objective of the present work is to examine the impact of a wave farm on the beach profile through a case study. The methodology is based on two coupled numerical models: a nearshore wave propagation model and a morphodynamic model, which are run in two scenarios, both with and without the wave farm. Wave data from a nearby coastal buoy are used to prescribe the boundary conditions. A positive effect on the wave climate, the cross-shore sediment transport and, consequently, the evolution of the beach profile itself due to the presence of the wave farm was found. The wave farm leads to a reduction in the erosion of the beach face. This work constitutes the first stage of the investigation of the effectiveness of a wave farm as a coastal defence measure, and the accuracy of the quantification of the erosion reduction will be enhanced in future research. In any case, the overarching picture that emerges is that wave farms, in addition to providing carbon-free energy, can be used as elements of a coastal defence scheme. 相似文献
11.
《Coastal Engineering》2003,49(3):185-207
This paper introduces a hydrodynamic model that can predict the cross-shore transformation of wave height, on- and offshore orbital motion, and time-averaged cross-shore and longshore currents in a parametric and probabilistic mode. In the parametric mode, the computations are based on the root-mean-square wave height, the peak period, and the energy-weighted mean angle of incidence, while in the probabilistic mode a discrete number of classes with their own wave height, period, and angle of incidence is prescribed. Predictions of the two modes differ marginally and result in about the same error statistics when compared to data from laboratory and field experiments. Consistent with other probabilistic wave models, measured wave height distributions inside the surf zone were not reproduced accurately by the present probabilistic model. Although this could be remedied by introducing some variability around the breaker parameter, predictions of the other hydrodynamic parameters did not improve as a result. From a hydrodynamic point of view, it appears superfluous to use the rather time-consuming probabilistic mode for morphodynamic modeling; the parametric mode suffices. 相似文献
12.
The newly developed nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, using a hybrid finite-difference finite-volume TVD-type scheme, is coupled with the wave model SWAN in the Nearshore Community Model (NearCoM) system. The new modeling system is named NearCoM-TVD and the purpose of this study is to report the capability and limitation of NearCoM-TVD for several coastal applications. For tidal inlet applications, the model is verified with the semi-analytical solution of Keulegan (1967) for an idealized inlet-bay system. To further evaluate the model performance in predicting nearshore circulation under intense wave–current interaction over complex bathymetry, modeled circulation patterns are validated with measured data during RCEX field experiment (MacMahan et al., 2010). For sediment transport applications, two sediment transport models are applied to predict three sandbar migration events at Duck, NC, during August to October 1994 (Gallagher et al., 1998). The model of Kobayashi et al. (2008) incorporates wave-induced onshore sediment transport rate as a function of the standard deviation of wave-induced horizontal velocities. The modeled beach profile evolution for two offshore events and one onshore event agrees well with the measured data. The second model investigated here combines two published sediment transport models, namely, the total load model driven by currents under the effect of wave stirring (Soulsby, 1997) and the wave-driven sediment transport model due to wave asymmetry/skewness (van Rijn et al., 2011). The model study with limited field data suggests that the parameterization of wave stirring is appropriate during energetic wave conditions. However, during low energy wave conditions, the effect of wave stirring needs to be re-calibrated. 相似文献
13.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(1):43-62
A vertical two-dimensional (2D) numerical model for time dependent local scour below offshore pipelines subject to unidirectional steady flow is developed. The governing equations for the flow and sediment transport are solved by using finite difference method in a general curvilinear coordinate system. The performance of two turbulence models, the standard k–ɛ model and Smagorinsky subgrid scale (SGS) model, on modeling time dependent scour processes is examined. Both suspended load and bed load are considered in the scour model. The suspended-load model is verified against two channel sediment transport cases. The change of bed level is calculated from the continuity equation of total sediment transport. A new time marching scheme and a sand slide scheme are proposed for the scour calculation. It is found that the proposed time marching scheme and sand slide model work well for both clear-water and live-bed scour situations and the standard k–ɛ turbulence closure is more preferable than the SGS model in the 2D scour model developed in this study. 相似文献
14.
15.
海滩近岸带中尺度地形动力过程是海岸海洋科学研究的重要研究内容之一.近20年来该领域发展较快,取得了一些重要的成果.对近岸带中尺度地形动力过程的碎波带地形与沙坝、冲流带地形与滩角、海滩风暴响应、观测技术手段等主要领域的进展进行了总结和评述,并对我国海滩研究提出要从加强观测手段和制定长期观测计划两方面来加强的建议. 相似文献
16.
Tide-driven bed load transport is an important portion of the net annual sediment transport rate in many shoreface and shelf environments. However, bed load transport under waves cannot be measured in the field and bed load transport by currents without waves is barely measurable, even in spring tidal conditions. There is, consequently, a strong lack of field data and validated models. The present field site was on the shoreface and inner shelf at 2 to 8.5 km offshore the central Dutch coast (far outside the surfzone), where tidal currents flow parallel to the coast. Bed load transports were carefully measured with a calibrated sampler in spring tidal conditions without waves at a water depth of 13–18 m with fine and medium sands. The near-bed flow was measured over nearly a year and used for integration to annual transport rates. An empirical bed load model was derived, which predicts bed load transports that are a factor of > 5 smaller than predicted by existing models. However, they agree with laboratory data of sand and gravel transport in currents near incipient motion. The damped transport rates may have been caused by cohesion of sediment or turbulence damping due to mud or biological activity. The annual bed load transport rate was calculated using a probability density function (pdf) derived from the near-bed current and orbital velocity data which represented the current and wave climate well when compared to 30 years of data from a nearby wave station. The effect of wave stirring was included in the transport calculations. The net bed load transport rate is a few m2/year. This is much less than predicted in an earlier model study, which is partly due to different bed load models but also due to the difference in velocity pdf. The annual transport rate is very sensitive to the probability of the largest current velocities. 相似文献
17.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(1):59-85
Simple theoretical models to determine the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves are presented. For the case of breaking waves, it is assumed that the seaward transport in the undertow is locally balanced by a net vertical sedimentation, so that no bottom changes occur at equilibrium. The parameterization of the water and sediment flux in the surf zone yields a power curve for the equilibrium profile with a power of 2/3, which is in agreement with previous field investigations on surf zone profile shapes. Three different models were developed to derive the profile shape under non-breaking waves, namely (1) a variational formulation where the wave energy dissipation in the bottom boundary layer is minimized over the part of the profile affected by non-breaking waves, (2) an integration of a small-scale sediment transport formula over a wave period where the slope conditions that yield zero net transport determine equilibrium, and (3) a conceptual formulation of mechanisms for onshore and offshore sediment transport where a balance between the mechanisms defines equilibrium conditions. All three models produced equilibrium profile shapes of power-type with the power typically in the range 0.15–0.30. Comparison with field data supported the results obtained indicating different powers for the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves. 相似文献
18.
This paper presents a methodology for modelling medium term (annual to decadal) cross shore beach profile change and erosion. The statistical-process based approach (SPA) presented here combines detailed statistical modelling of offshore storm climate with a process based morphodynamic model (XBeach), to assess, and quantify morphodynamic variability of cross shore beach profiles. Until now, the use of process based models has been limited to simulations at storm event timescales. This methodology therefore represents the first application of a fully process based model in longer term simulations, as such, the approach requires simulation of post-storm beach profile recovery as well as individual event impacts. Narrabeen Beach, NSW, Australia was used as a case study for application of the technique due to the availability of an extensive set of storm and beach profile data. The results presented here demonstrate that the methodology produces encouraging results for determining medium term beach profile variability and erosion. 相似文献
19.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(7):617-631
A calibrated morphodynamic model of the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands [Grunnet, N.M., Walstra, D.J.R., Ruessink, B.G., 2004. Process-based modelling of a shoreface nourishment. Coastal Eng. 51/7, 581–607], comprising the island and its two adjacent tidal inlet systems, is applied to identify the relative contribution of tides, wind and waves to the cross-shore and alongshore redistribution of a 2 Mm3 nourishment supplied to the nearshore zone along the island. Several model simulations with varying combinations of horizontal and vertical tide, wind and wave forcing were designed to investigate the effect of each individual forcing on a large spatio-temporal scale (order of kilometres and months, respectively). As expected, stirring and transport by waves and wave-induced currents are predicted to be by far the dominant contributor to the net sediment transport along the coast of Terschelling. Because of the strong obliquity of the winds and the relatively small tidal currents in front of the island (≈ 0.5 m/s), alongshore wind-driven currents increase sediment transport rates and horizontal tides virtually have no net transport capacity. This motivated a local model of the study area along the closed coast of Terschelling, not including tidal inlets and further simplifying tidal boundary definitions by omitting the horizontal tides: morphodynamic simulations of the local model show virtually identical results as the larger model predictions. The reduction in complexity in setting up a local model instead of a regional model coupled with the corresponding significant reduction in computational time points to an increasing applicability of complex process-based models. 相似文献
20.
砂质底质潮汐水道均衡态模拟初探 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：2
以过程模拟法探讨了发育在砂质堆积体上的潮汐水道的均衡态问题.在潮汐作用为主导、初始状况为平坦海底、底质粒度均一等条件下,利用修正的Bagnold推移质输沙率公式和沉积物连续方程,建立砂质潮汐水道均衡态的一维模型.数值实验结果表明,潮汐水道达到均衡态的时间尺度为10a以上,水道形成的早期冲刷速度较快,随着时间的推移,冲刷减缓.从水道冲刷出来的物质在水道前方形成堆积体.潮汐水道的演变受控于水动力变化和沉积物冲淤的负反馈机制,水道均衡态主要与沉积物粒径、涨落潮流速、历时、流速沿水道轴向分布的组合特征有关.流场特征决定了水道均衡态的形态;在沉积物组分均一的情况下水道均衡深度与潮流流速呈正相关;达到均衡态的时间尺度与沉积物粒径、涨落潮历时、流速的变化以及水道规模有关.沉积物临界起动流速随深度的变化对水道均衡态有较大影响. 相似文献