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1.
This study analyses a 4.5 year (September 2009–March 2014) time-series of remotely-sensed data of altimeter significant wave heights to describe the temporal and spatial variability of ocean swells along the northern coast of the Gulf of Guinea. The NOAA WAVEWATCH III (NWW3) wave model data were used with altimeter data to determine the origin of the swells that occur along the coast of Côte d'Ivoire in West Africa. We show that the ocean swells along the northern coast of the Gulf of Guinea are generated in the Southern Ocean and then propagate from south to north in the South Atlantic Ocean, before turning south-west to north-east close to the coast. This finding corroborates previous studies in this area. The remotely-sensed and NWW3 significant wave height data captured the strong swells observed along the coast of Côte d'Ivoire from the period 28 August–3 September 2011, which were responsible for an extreme erosion event of more than 12?m along that country's coastline. This extreme event was triggered by a strong storm in the region between 40° and 60° S that occurred eight days previously in the South Atlantic. The waves propagated as swells at a speed of about 875?km day–1 before reaching the northern African coast.  相似文献   

2.
Spectral wave characteristics were studied based on waves measured for 1 year during 2010 off Gangavaram, Bay of Bengal. Maximum wave height of 5.2 m was observed on 19 May 2010 due to the influence of cyclonic storm LAILA. The wave spectrum was single-peaked during 57 % of the time and the double-peaked spectrum observed was mainly swell-dominated. Low-frequency waves (0.05–0.15 Hz) were predominantly from 150° to 180°, whereas high-frequency waves (>0.15 Hz) during November–January were mainly from 90° to 120°, and during July and August from 180° to 210°. Annual average significant wave height was similar to the value (1 m) observed in the eastern Arabian Sea.  相似文献   

3.
An assessment of cyclone risk and vulnerability at the village level has evolved, which is an important component of the information system for local level development action plans for preparedness and mitigation. Here, a case study for the Nellore district along the east coast of India is considered. Using maximum probable surges along the coast, total water level (TWL) due to the combined effect of surge, tide, and wind wave is computed for the most vulnerable coastal villages of the Nellore district due to any tropical cyclones. The computations suggest that the TWL along the Nellore coast varies from 2 m in the south to 4 m in the north.  相似文献   

4.
Estimation of Longshore Sediment Transport Rate (LSTR) in the littoral zone is essential for managing and developing any coastal zone. Numerical models are powerful tool to understand and investigate various processes responsible for LSTR in a systematic manner since direct measurement of LSTR is a difficult task. A one dimensional LITDRIFT model was implemented along the Vengurla coast for estimation of LSTR and to analyze the sensitivity of each input parameters towards the computation of LSTR. Major input parameters required for the estimation of LSTR are nearshore wave climate, bathymetry, and sediment characteristics. The nearshore wave data at a depth of 15 m were collected using wave rider buoy in 2015 is used in the present study. Field observations were carried out to survey the regional bathymetry and sediment characteristics. Annual net LSTR along Vengurala coast is relatively less and varies from ?7778 to ?9015 m3 with an average of ?8511 m3. The net direction of LSTR is towards south and gross LSTR is 1.18 × 105 m3/year. The LSTR reveals more sensitivity to coastline orientation and wave direction. A 1° changes in coastline angle and wave direction causes approximately 3000 m3/month difference in LSTR. Moreover, wave height, wave period, and bed roughness has an important role for controlling LSTR. The model results help to identify the role of each parameter contributing towards LSTR estimation and a similar model approach can be applied to other coasts for estimating LSTR in an accurate way.  相似文献   

5.
Numerical study of sea waves created by tropical cyclone Jelawat   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  
A numerical study of sea waves generated by tropical cyclone Jelawat is carried out using the cycle 4 version of the WAM.The model domain currently covers the latitudes 20-45 N and longitudes 115-135 E,and the model spatial resolution reaches 0.25 ×0.25.Comparison of the model results with buoy observations reveals that the model can fairly reproduce the temporal variation of observed waves.Two-dimensional comparison is also made against the satellite altimeter significant wave heights derived from TOPEX/PO...  相似文献   

6.
Dynamical properties of short-period temperature fluctuations are studied. Water temperature was measured continuously at several depths at the following stations: at 38°29.5′N, 141°35.8′E (100 m depth) on the continental shelf off Miyagi Prefecture in the summer of 1967, at 35°01.8′N, 139°0.8.5′E (100 m depth) in Sagami Bay in the summer of 1968, and at 32°32.2′N, 129°53.7′E (74 m depth) in Tachibana Bay in the summer of 1970. These measurements were made with a thermistor array laid down from the R. V.Tanseimaru (Ocean Research Institute, University of Tokyo) which was fixed with bow and stern anchors. Significant temperature fluctuations found at the first and the third stations are thought to be due to first mode internal waves having amplitude 3 to 5 m and period 5 to 20 minutes. The wave length of the waves is estimated to be 25 m to 400 m from the observed density structure. At the second station, we found second-mode internal waves. The period, amplitude and wave length of the waves are about 30 minutes, 1.3 m and 600 m, respectively. In all cases, the spectral density of the temperature fluctuations decreases with increase in frequency. However, the decrease obey neither the ?3 power law nor the ?5/3 power law. Coherences in the temperature fluctuations between two depths of measurement in the seasonal thermocline are significantly high in the range of frequencies lower than the local Brunt-Väisälä frequency, but are low in the higher frequency range. At the first and the third stations, the difference in the level of coherences between the lower frequencies and the higher frequencies are large. Phase differences between two depths in the thermocline are small in the lower frequency range. This suggests that the first-mode internal waves are predominant over higher-mode internal waves and over other disturbances.  相似文献   

7.
Studies of offshore wave climate based on satellite altimeter significant wave height(SWH) have widespread application value. This study used a calibrated multi-altimeter SWH dataset to investigate the wave climate characteristics in the offshore areas of China. First, the SWH measurements from 28 buoys located in China's coastal seas were compared with an Ifremer calibrated altimeter SWH dataset. Although the altimeter dataset tended to slightly overestimate SWH, it was in good agreement with the in situ data in general. The correlation coefficient was 0.97 and the root-mean-square(RMS) of differences was 0.30 m. The validation results showed a slight difference in different areas. The correlation coefficient was the maximum(0.97) and the RMS difference was the minimum(0.28 m) in the area from the East China Sea to the north of the South China Sea.The correlation coefficient of approximately 0.95 was relatively low in the seas off the Changjiang(Yangtze River) Estuary. The RMS difference was the maximum(0.32 m) in the seas off the Changjiang Estuary and was0.30 m in the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea. Based on the above evidence, it is confirmed that the multialtimeter wave data are reliable in China's offshore areas. Then, the characteristics of the wave field, including the frequency of huge waves and the multi-year return SWH in China's offshore seas were analyzed using the23-year altimeter wave dataset. The 23-year mean SWH generally ranged from 0.6–2.2 m. The greatest SWH appeared in the southeast of the China East Sea, the Taiwan Strait and the northeast of the South China Sea.Obvious seasonal variation of SWH was found in most areas; SWH was greater in winter and autumn than in summer and spring. Extreme waves greater than 4 m in height mainly occurred in the following areas: the southeast of the East China Sea, the south of the Ryukyu Islands, the east of Taiwan-Luzon Island, and the Dongsha Islands extending to the Zhongsha Islands, and the frequency of extreme waves was 3%–6%. Extreme waves occurred most frequently in autumn and rarely in spring. The 100-year return wave height was greatest from the northwest Pacific seas extending to southeast of the Ryukyu Islands(9–12 m), and the northeast of the South China Sea and the East China Sea had the second largest wave heights(7–11 m). For inshore areas, the100-year return wave height was the greatest in the waters off the east coast of Guangdong Province and the south coast of Zhejiang Province(7–8 m), whereas it was at a minimum in the area from the Changjiang Estuary to the Bohai Sea(4–6 m). An investigation of sampling effects indicates that when using the 1°×1°grid dataset, although the combination of nine altimeters obviously enhanced the time and space coverage of sampling, the accuracy of statistical results, particularly extreme values obtained from the dataset, still suffered from undersampling problems because the time sampling percent in each 1°×1°grid cell was always less than33%.  相似文献   

8.
为了分析台风影响下浙江沿海风和浪的演变特点，利用浙江省海洋浮标站监测数据和欧洲中期天气预报中心第五代全球气候大气再分析数据（European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts Reanalysis v5，ERA5），选取2010年以来严重影响浙江的7次台风个例，对台风作用下浙江沿海海面风和浪的演变特点进行分析。结果表明：在台风影响过程中，海浪波型多数呈现混合浪-风浪-混合浪的演变规律；涌浪波型的出现与台风强度及其与浮标站的距离和方位有关，也与海洋潮汐现象紧密相关。台风影响期间，浙江沿海浪高的变化受风速和风向共同作用影响。在风向不变的情况下，持续风速增大对浪高的增大有明显作用；风向的变化也会对浪高变化产生影响，向岸风和离岸风的转变会造成浪高出现剧烈变化。ERA5 再分析资料有效波高在台风浪较大时会呈现偏小的趋势，分析订正后的ERA5 有效波高发现，台风浪有效波高大值区与台风中心位置相关。研究结果可为严重影响浙江沿海的台风浪预报服务提供参考。  相似文献   

9.
The short-term wave characteristics are required for design and operation of industrial facilities within the coastal areas. Water surface displacement measured using waverider buoy moored at 13 m water depth in the eastern Arabian Sea off the west coast of India have been analyzed to study the short-term statistics of waves covering full one year period. The study indicates that the values of the observed maximum wave height as a function of duration are not consistent with the theoretical expected value. There is significant variation (1.29–2.19) in the ratio between highest 1% wave and significant wave height compared to the theoretical value of 1.67. The data recorded at 13 m water depth indicates that the significant wave height is ∼8% lower than that predicted by the conventional Rayleigh distribution. The theoretical bivariate log-normal distribution represents the joint distributions of wave heights and periods for the study area.  相似文献   

10.
Field measurements during the Bay of Bengal Monsoon Experiment (BOBMEX-99), data from a deep sea moored buoy, and satellite altimeter were used to describe variability in the hydrographic and meso-scale features in the Bay of Bengal (BoB) during the summer monsoon of 1999. The thermohaline fields showed two regions of upsloping of isopleths centered at 82°E and 84.75°E, ～110 km and 450 km away from the coast, respectively, followed by downsloping. The upsloping/downsloping of isopleths and the alternating currents was part of cyclonic and anti-cyclonic circulation patterns in the western BoB. In this region, both wind and current were important in the dynamics of coastal upwelling. The observations showed a relationship between the propagating waves and eddy on variability of thermohaline fields. On an annual cycle, four Kelvin waves were observed in the BoB, but only the downwelling Kelvin wave formed during October entered the Arabian Sea. During the monsoon season, four eddies were formed in the western BoB, of which the anticyclonic eddy centered at 15°N, 84°E and the cyclonic eddy centered at 17.5°N, 84.5°E were prominent. The baroclinic instability caused by the opposing currents along the east coast and the wind stress curl favored the formation of eddies. Okhubo-Weiss and Isern-Fontanet parameter confirmed the presence of eddies in the BoB.  相似文献   

11.
To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.  相似文献   

12.
An attempt has been made to develop a holistic understanding of upwelling and downwelling along the south-west coast of India. The main objective was to elucidate the roles of different forcings involved in the vertical motion along this coast. The south-west coast of India was characterized by upwelling during the south-west monsoon (May to September) and by downwelling during the north-east monsoon and winter (November to February). The average vertical velocity calculated along the south-west coast from the vertical shift of the 26?°C isotherm is 0.57?m/day during upwelling and 0.698?m/day during downwelling. It was concluded that upwelling along the south-west coast of India is driven by offshore Ekman transport due to the alongshore wind, Ekman pumping, horizontal divergence of currents and by the propagation of coastally trapped waves. Whereas downwelling along the coast is driven only by convergence of currents and the propagation of coastally trapped Kelvin waves. Along the west coast of India, the downwelling-favorable Kelvin waves come from the equator and upwelling-favorable waves come from the Gulf of Mannar region.  相似文献   

13.
Wind and wind-generated waves were measured in a wind-wave tank. A clear transition was found in the relation between the wind speed U 10 and the wind friction velocity u * near u * = 0.2 m/s, where U 10 is the wind speed at 10 m height extrapolated from the measured wind profile in a logarithmic layer, and u * = 0.2 m/s corresponds roughly to U 10 = 8 m/s in the present measurement. Quite a similar transition was found in the relation between the spectral density of high frequency wind waves and u *. These results suggest the existence of the critical wind speed for air–sea boundary processes, which was proposed by Munk (J Marine Res 6:203–218, 1947) more than half a century ago. His original idea of the critical wind speed was based on the discontinuities in such phenomena as white caps, wind stress, and evaporation, which commonly appear at a wind speed near 7 m/s. On the basis of the results of our present study and those of earlier studies, we discuss the phenomena which are relevant to the critical wind speed for the air–sea boundary processes. The conclusion is that the critical wind speed exists and it is attributed to the start of wave breaking rather than the Kelvin–Helmholtz instability, but the air–sea boundary processes are not discontinuous at a particular wind speed; because of the stochastic nature of breaking waves, the changes occur over a range of wind speeds. Detailed discussions are presented on the dynamical processes associated with the critical wind speed such as wind-induced change of sea surface roughness and high frequency wave spectrum. Future studies are required, however, to clarify the dynamical processes quantitatively. In particular, there is a need to further examine the gradual change of breaking patterns of wind waves with the increase of wind speed, and the associated change of the structure of the wind over wind waves, such as separation of the airflow at the crest of wind waves, the turbulent stress, and wave-induced stress. Studies on the dynamical structure of the high frequency wave spectrum are also needed.  相似文献   

14.
Radar data from three experiments are analysed. Scatter characteristics of 50 cm wind-generated waves have been investigated with a C-band radar in a large wind-wave tank. Evidence of wave groups in sea clutter from the west coast of Scotland in the Sound of Sleat is also presented. The spectrum of the waves in the sound is narrow-banded and the waves are young, like the wind-wave spectrum in the laboratory. Clutter measurements, collected on the English south coast at Portland, of more ocean-like waves with broad band spectra also suggest the presence of wave groups. Evidence of the presence of wave groups is demonstrated in range-time images, as well as in the Fourier domain. Some ad hoc processing schemes, the normalised variance and binary threshold techniques, were successfully applied to enhance the appearance of the wave groups. The wind waves change frequency with fetch in the wave tank and the downshifting process is investigated using range-frequency maps of the radar data. The waves appear to change frequency in discrete steps that are associated with wave breaking events. The difference in wave period before and after breaking could be measured, and a wave crest was shown to be lost to compensate for the change in period, as expected. Some downshifting could also be measured in the Sound of Sleat. The ratio of wave group frequency and wave frequency is inaccordance with Benjamin-Fier sideband instability theory, as it is for the data measured at Portland. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

15.
Wave data derived from radar altimeters carried on four satellite missions are combined into a wave climatology for New Zealand waters. These data provide extensive observations of wave conditions around New Zealand, where the paucity of measurements has previously hindered definition of the wave climate. The data span the period 1985 to the present with the exception of a 2‐year gap in 1989–91. The spatial distribution of the long‐term mean of significant wave heights (SWH) indicates a strong latitudinal variation in the south‐west Pacific, with values of over 4 m at latitudes of 50–60°S and under 2.5 m towards the tropics. The shadowing of New Zealand is quite marked; a result of the dominant contribution of south‐westerly wave events. The annual range of the mean SWH also varies over the region; within 0.6 m in the north and 1.3 m in the south. A principal component analysis of the monthly anomalies in mean SWH identifies spatial patterns of variation. Some components vary with the local wind more than others suggesting that some anomalies are associated with wind sea and some with swell. Some patterns also appear to vary with the Southern Oscillation Index and can be related to the wind anomalies associated with El Nino events. Frequency distributions of SWH are also determined, and it is noted that in the north of the region the spatial pattern of the high waves differs considerably from the means.  相似文献   

16.
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17.
厦门岛海滩剖面对9914号台风大浪波动力的快速响应   总被引：17，自引：1，他引：17  
根据 9914号台风发生前后对厦门岛滨岸海滩剖面地形的重复测量结果及有关台风要素和潮位的实测资料 ,探讨了台风袭击厦门岛期间海滩的变形特征和侵蚀状态。分析得出 ,海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击普遍发生急剧变化。横向冲淤变形以东岸海滩为最剧烈 :滩肩蚀退可达 2 5m ;滩面呈上冲下淤 ,上段和滩肩的单宽冲蚀量达 30m3 /m ;下段单宽淤积量达 17m3 /m ;剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变。这种变形特点是在台风大浪波动力和潮位暴涨的双重作用下造成的。台风期间 ,沿岸输沙能力以北岸最高 ,南岸次之 ,东岸较低 ;且自南岸到东岸 ,随着沿岸输沙量减少 ,横向变形相应有增大的趋势。这是9914号台风以偏东方向袭击厦门的结果。表明不同方向海岸岸滩地形对同一台风大浪波动力作用具有不同响应特征。  相似文献   

18.
波浪谱分析是研究随机波浪、构建波浪模型、计算海浪要素的主要方法,也是海洋工程设计、波浪能应用研究等的重要依据。目前对于现场波浪数据的获取仅局限于波浪特征参数和部分频段数据,为了获取准确有效的波浪谱信息,提出微机电系统(Micro-Electro-Mechanical System,MEMS)和全球定位系统(Global Positioning System,GPS)测波传感器相结合的波浪谱数据获取方法以及利用北斗短报文数据传输的通信方式。综合考虑波浪谱数据特点和北斗短报文通信能力,波浪谱数据选用半精度数据类型编码并设计了相应的数据传输格式。现场海试结果表明该方法对于全波谱数据计算和传输较为准确,有效波高、峰值周期、平均波向和方向扩展的准确率相比于单独GPS传感器计算结果分别提升了12.5%(0.1m)、5%(0.2s)、8%(13°)和13%(8°),为海浪观测资料获取提供了新方法和新思路,可以进一步满足海洋多要素研究和对完整频谱分析的实际应用需求。  相似文献   

19.
Ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  
Nearly 17 years wave records from deep water and shore‐based stations are used to describe the ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand. The wave environment is dominated by west and southwest swell and storm waves generated in the temperate latitude belt of westerly winds. As a result, the west and south coasts are exposed, high energy shores, the east coast is a high energy lee shore, and the northern coast from North Cape to East Cape is a low energy lee shore sheltered from these winds and waves. South of New Zealand, wave energies are extremely high; the prevailing deep water wave is 3.5–4.5 m high and has a 10–12 s period, with a slight increase in wave heights in winter.

The west coast wave environment is mixed, and consists of locally generated westerly and southerly storm waves, and swell waves generated to the south. The prevailing wave is t.0–3.0 m and 6–8 s period. There are no strong seasonal rhythms, only shorter period cycles of wave height (5 day) associated with similar quasi‐rhythmic cycles in the weather.

The east coast also has a mixed wave climate with southerly swells, originating in the westerlies south of New Zealand, and locally generated southerly and northerly storm waves. The prevailing wave is 0.5–2.0 m and 7–11 s period. A short period rhythmic cycle, similar to that on the west coast, is superimposed on a weak seasonal cycle. The seasonal, cycle results from an increase in the frequency of local northerly waves in summer.

The prevailing wave on the north coast is a northeasterly, 0.5–1.5 m high and 5–7 s period. Subtropical disturbances and southward‐moving depressions generate a mixed wave environment and a possible seasonally reflecting a winter increase in. storminess.  相似文献   

20.
Abstract

This study tests the hypothesis that the in situ void ratio of surficial marine sediments may be predicted from shear wave velocity-depth data with a reliability equal to that of other methods currently available. Shear wave velocity is fundamentally controlled by the number of grain-to-grain contacts per unit volume of material and by the effective stress across those contacts. In this study, three previously established empirical formulae are used to predict void ratio from velocity-depth data. Field data were acquired along a transect off the northern Californian coast across which water depth increased from 35 to 70 m and seafloor sediment type varied from sand to silty-sand, respectively. A towed seafloor sled device was used to collect shear wave refraction data, and a marked, systematic decrease in velocity was observed along the line, ranging from 35–70 m/s for the coarse, near-shore material to 25–40 m/s for the finer, offshore deposits. Void ratios predicted from these velocities were compared with data measured directly from box-core samples. Of the formulae used for prediction, two agree remarkably well with the control data. Both predicted and control values increase from 0.6–0.8 for the sandy material to 1.1–1.5 for the silty-sand. Thus, this study does not disprove the hypothesis set and demonstrates the potential of field shear wave velocity-depth data as a means of delineating spatial variation in void ratio for surficial marine sediments in a remote, nondestructive manner.  相似文献   

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