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1.
响水近岸海域波浪特性研究   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料,分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性,研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性,并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间,年平均值为0.56 m;最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间,年平均值为0.93 m;平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s,年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节,波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言,通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面,本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%,且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值,其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右,高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间,分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系,发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性,但受波浪浅水变形影响,各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。  相似文献   

2.
利用台湾海峡中部2号大浮标2017年全年的实测波浪资料, 对海浪的基本波要素及其与风的相关性、波谱特性进行统计分析, 得出了重要特征波参数之间的回归关系和适合台湾海峡中部的海浪谱形式。研究结果显示: 1) 台湾海峡中部的常浪向是NE向, 强浪向是NNE向, 月均有效波高的变化范围为0.87~2.98m, 7月波高最小, 12月波高最大, 波周期与波高有着相似的月际变化趋势; 2) 主要波浪类型是以风浪为主的混合浪, 谱型上以单峰为主, 波高与风速整体上呈正相关关系, 大浪主要由台风和强劲的东北季风引起; 3) 波浪的平均周期与大部分特征波周期之间具有良好的线性相关性, NNE、NE方向的波浪有效波高和有效波周期线性相关性较强; 4) 相比于Jonswap谱, 规范谱一是更符合本区域的海浪谱模式, 给出了基于有效波高和谱峰周期拟合的规范谱一形式。这些研究成果可为海洋工程设计和波浪数值模拟提供参考。  相似文献   

3.
Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term.  相似文献   

4.
Effects of high-order nonlinear interactions on unidirectional wave trains   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
Numerical simulations of gravity waves with high-order nonlinearities in two-dimensional domain are performed by using the pseudo spectral method. High-order nonlinearities more than third order excite apparently chaotic evolutions of the Fourier energy in deep water random waves. The high-order nonlinearities increase kurtosis, wave height distribution and Hmax/H1/3 in deep water and decrease these wave statistics in shallow water. Moreover, they can generate a single extreme high wave with an outstanding crest height in deep water. High-order nonlinearities (more than third order) can be regarded as one cause of freak waves in deep water.  相似文献   

5.
随机波浪下泰勒离散系数的时域解   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1       下载免费PDF全文
利用Wolk提出的粒子追踪方程,通过等分频率法划分不规则波谱,利用MATLAB做粒子运动模拟计算,得到无因次化泰勒离散系数K/D随时间t变化的曲线;通过与Huang等得到的P-M谱的泰勒离散系数K/D计算结果比较证明了本计算方法的可靠性。采用该方法研究了不规则波条件下,波序列(同一谱型不同波面序列)和谱型(谱峰周期、有效波高、谱峰升高因子)对波浪离散系数的影响;计算结果表明:同一谱型不同波序列对泰勒纵向离散系数稳定值和稳定时间无影响;不规则波谱峰周期越大,纵向离散系数K/D越小,稳定时间越短;有效波高越大,纵向离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;谱峰升高因子越大,泰勒离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;与规则波相比,不规则波的泰勒离散系数K/D的值略小10%~30%。  相似文献   

6.
X-波段雷达近海海浪频谱反演的神经网络模型   总被引:2,自引:1,他引:1  
X-波段雷达作为国内海浪观测的一种新工具,在海浪频谱获取和有效波高反演方面仍存在较多问题.本文利用非线性回归方法,将现场实测浮标数据频谱和雷达一维图像谱分别与标准频谱模型进行拟合,发现浮标频谱和一维图像谱具有标准频谱的特征,能够较准确地获取相应的谱参数.提出了建立由雷达一维图像谱参数反演海浪频谱参数的神经网络模型,同时在模型中加入影像序列信噪比,进而反演有效波高,并将反演结果与现场实测数据和传统算法(建立影像序列信噪比与有效波高之间的线性回归方程)进行了对比,结果表明,获取谱参数的误差和反演有效波高的平均误差在20%以内,而传统算法计算有效波高平均误差在20%以上.  相似文献   

7.
The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves with significant wave height more than 2 m based on the data collected along the Indian coast is examined. It was found that the value of Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) parameters (α and γ) increases with significant wave height and mean wave period and decreases with spectral peak period. The estimated average value (0.0027 and 1.63) of the JONSWAP parameters, α and γ were less than the generally recommended values of 0.0081 and 3.3, respectively. By carrying out a multi-regression analysis, an empirical equation is arrived relating the JONSWAP parameters with significant wave height, peak wave period and mean wave period. It was found that the Scott spectra underestimate the maximum spectral energy of high waves. The study shows that the measured wave spectra can be represented by JONSWAP spectra with the JONSWAP parameters estimated based on the equation proposed in this paper.  相似文献   

8.
在试验水池中,开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型,然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱,由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素Hm/HsHm表示波列中的最大波高, Hs为有效波高)的关系进行了详细的分析,同时,对畸形波波高Hfr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析,发现峰度与畸形波要素i>Hm/Hs呈正相关, Hfr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外,水深的变化剧烈时(如斜坡、海山位置)有助于畸形波的发生。  相似文献   

9.
采用TOMAWAC模型模拟近岸40年的波浪要素。波谱计算采用36个方向,模拟波周期范围为1.5~29 s,并对极值波况进行分析。统计了1979—2018年间有效波高的年极值,算得百年一遇的有效波高,发现百年一遇波高由北往南总体呈现增大趋势:渤海和黄海的百年一遇的波高不超过10 m;东海百年一遇的波高在15~22 m之间;南海北部百年一遇波高的范围比较大,靠近台湾部分最大达到了22 m,海南岛西部较小,在10~15 m之间。引用SET值相关指标对极端波浪的发生次数、持续时间和强度进行分析,发现渤海、黄海北部、台湾海峡以及南海西北部极端事件频繁发生,平均每年有5~7次,台湾岛西南部极端事件的平均历时最大,达到了32 h。  相似文献   

10.
11.
The experimental investigation of unidirectional random wave slamming on the three-dimensional structure in the splash zone is presented. The experiment is conducted in the marine environment channel in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology. The test wave is unidirectional irregular wave. The experiments are carried out with perpendicular random waves (β=0°) and oblique random waves (β=15°, 30°, 45°), the significant wave heights H1/3 ranging from 7.5 to 20 cm with 2.5 cm increment, the peak wave periods Tp ranging from 0.75 to 2.0 s with 0.25 s increment, and the clearance of the model with respect to the significant wave height s/H1/3 ranging from 0.0 to 0.5 with 0.1 increment. The statistical analysis results of different test cases are presented. The statistical distribution characteristics of the perpendicular irregular wave impact pressures are compared with that of the oblique irregular wave on the underside of the structure. The effect of the wave direction β on the wave impact forces on the underside of the structure is determined. The relation between the impact forces and the parameters such as the significant wave height, the relative structure width and the relative clearance of the structure is also discussed.  相似文献   

12.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(1):39-48
This paper describes a simple method for modelling wave breaking over submerged structures, with the view of using such modelling approach in a coastal area morphodynamic modelling system.A dominant mechanism for dissipating wave energy over a submerged breakwater is depth-limited wave breaking. Available models for energy dissipation due to wave breaking are developed for beaches (gentle slopes) and require further modifications to model wave breaking over submerged breakwaters.In this paper, wave breaking is split into two parts, namely: 1) depth-limited breaking modelled using Battjes and Janssen's (1978) theory [Battjes, J.A. and Jannsen, J.P.F.M. (1978). Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves. Proceedings of the 16th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng., Hamburg, Germany, pp. 569-587.] and 2) steepness limited breaking modelled using an integrated form of the Hasselmann's whitecapping dissipation term, commonly used in fully spectral wind–wave models. The parameter γ2, governing the maximum wave height at incipient breaking (Hmax = γ2d) is used as calibration factor to tune numerical model results to selected laboratory measurements. It is found that γ2 varies mainly with the relative submergence depth (ratio of submergence depth at breakwater crest to significant wave height), and a simple relationship is proposed. It is shown that the transmission coefficients obtained using this approach compare favourably with those calculated using published empirical expressions.  相似文献   

13.
斜向波浪作用下双层水平板式防波堤波浪荷载试验研究   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
In this study, systematic physical model tests were performed to investigate the wave forces on the twin-plate breakwater under irregular waves. Based on the experimental results, the effects of the relative plate width B/L,wave height Hs/D and incident angle θ0 on the wave forces were analyzed and discussed. The results showed that:(1) The envelopes of the total wave pressure were generally symmetrical along the direction of plate width under the incident angles(θ0) being 0°, 15°, 30°, 45° and 60°. In particular, the envelopes of wave pressure atθ0=30° were larger than all other cases.(2) The synchronous pressure distribution of the breakwater under oblique wave action was more complicated comparing to the normal incident waves.(3) Based on data analysis, an empirical formula was obtained to estimate the total vertical force of the twin-plate breakwater.This empirical formula can be a good reference for the design basis of engineering applications under specified wave conditions.  相似文献   

14.
利用斋堂岛东南海域2013年至2014年的实测波浪资料,统计分析了本海域波浪特征,为波浪能资源评估提供基本波浪参数。统计结果表明,本海域年平均有效波高为0.60 m,最大波高为5.30 m,平均周期为3.3 s,最大周期为8.3 s,常浪向为E-SE向。本文亦讨论了本海域波高分布和波高与周期的关系,并基于JONSWAP谱谱型的基本结构,拟合得到适用于本海域的海浪谱谱型,可为海洋能发电装置的布设及相应的工程建设提供一定的参考。  相似文献   

15.
利用海南东方近岸海域2014年至2015年间一整年的海浪观测资料, 分析了海浪的时间变化特征。观测时间段内, 有效波高最大值为4.03m, 平均值0.79m; 平均周期最大值为6.32s, 平均值为3.58s。该海域冬季波高较大, 秋季最小, 常浪向为SSW方向, 强浪向为WSW向。基于该长期观测数据, 文章亦研究了平均周期、有效波高之间的关系, 同时还确立了该海域波高与平均持续时间之间的关系。最后讨论了观测时间段内波浪能流密度的变化特征, 发现一年中能流密度大于2kW·m-1的频率为26%, 且从全年的计算结果来看, 观测位置处12月的波浪能较适宜开发, 但总体波浪能资源不够丰富。文章对于认识海南东方近岸海域波浪特征以及工程设计都具有重要的意义。  相似文献   

16.
A long submerged horizontal circular cylinder of .90 m diameter was assembled off the beach at Reggio Calabria where the wind waves typically have significant height ranging within 0.20 and 0.40 m and dominant period within 1.8 and 2.6 s. Three ultrasonic probes recorded the waves, and two sets of pressure transducers, the first one at the cylinder and the second one in the undisturbed wave field, enabled to compare the force amplitude on the cylinder to the force amplitude on an equivalent mass of water in the undisturbed wave field (Froude-Krylov F-K force). After ten days of measurements, the experiment was repeated with a cylinder of .45 m diameter. The Keulegan-Carpenter number was within 2.5, and the wave forces proved to be inertial. The following general features emerged: (i) the force spectrum is usually very narrow even if the wave spectrum is broad; (ii) the vertical diffraction coefficient is somewhat smaller than the horizontal diffraction coefficient; (iii) the positive extremes of Fz (vertical force referred to the buoyancy force) markedly exceed the negative extremes; (iv) the pressure fluctuations induced by the highest waves at the cylinder are very similar to the measured pressure-surface displacement covariances. In each of the 580 records obtained in the course of the experiment it was found that the propagation speed reduces to about a half at the cylinder, and the amplitude of the pressure fluctuations increases of 10–15% at the upper half of the cylinder and decreases of about the same percentage at the lower half. These phenomena fully explain why the force amplitude on the cylinder is larger than the F-K force amplitude.  相似文献   

17.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(9):711-722
In this paper it will be shown that the wave height parameter H50, defined as the average wave height of the 50 highest waves reaching a rubble-mound breakwater in its useful life, can describe the effect of the wave height on the history of the armor damage caused by the wave climate during the structure's usable life.Using Thompson and Shuttler (Thompson, D.M., Shuttler, R.M., 1975. Riprap design for wind wave attack: A laboratory study on random waves. HRS Wallingford, Report 61, UK) data it will be shown that H50 is the wave parameter that best represents the damage evolution with the number of waves in a sea state. Using this H50 parameter, formulae as van der Meer (van der Meer, J.W., 1988. Rock slopes and gravel beaches under wave attack. PhD Thesis. Technical University of Delft) and Losada and Giménez-Curto (Losada, M.A., Gimenez–Curto, L.A., 1979. The joint effect of the wave height and period on the stability of rubble mound breakwaters using Iribarren's number. Coastal Engineering, 3, 77–96) are transformed into sea-state damage evolution formulae. Using these H50-transformed formulae for regular and irregular sea states it will be shown how damage predictions are independent of the sea state wave height distribution.To check the capability of these H50-formulae to predict damage evolution of succession of sea states with different wave height distributions, some stability tests with regular and irregular waves have been carried out. After analysing the experimental results, it will be shown how H50-formulae can predict the observed damage independently of the sea state wave height distribution or the succession of sea states.  相似文献   

18.
The spectral properties of nonlinear drag forces of random waves on vertical circular cylinders are analyzed in this paper by means of nonlinear spectral analysis. The analysis provides basic parameters for estimation of the characteristic drag forces. Numerical computation is also performed for the investigation of the effects of nonlinearity of the drag forces.The results indicate that the wave drag forces calculated by linear wave theory are larger than those calculated by the third order Stokes wave theory for given waves. The difference between them increases with wave height. The wave drag forces calculated by use of hnear approximation are about 5% smaller than their actual values when measured in the peak values of spectral densities. This will result in a safety problem for the design of offshore structures. Therefore, the nonlinear effect of wave drag forces should be taken into comidemtion in design and application of important offshore structures.  相似文献   

19.
An experimental study, conducted in the large wave flume of CIEM in Barcelona, is presented to evaluate the effects of Posidonia oceanica meadows on the wave height damping and on the wave induced velocities. The experiments were performed for irregular waves from intermediate to shallow waters with the dispersion parameter h/λ ranging from 0.09 to 0.29. Various configurations of the artificial P. oceanica meadow were tested for two stem density patterns (360 and 180 stems/m2) and for plant's height ranging from 1/3 to 1/2 of the water depth.The results for wave height attenuation are in good agreement with the analytical expressions found in literature, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the vegetated field is due to the drag forces. Based on this hypothesis, an empirical relationship for the drag coefficient related to the Reynolds number, Re, is proposed. The Reynolds number, calculated using the artificial P. oceanica leaf width as the length scale and the maximum orbital velocity over the meadow edge as the characteristic velocity scale, ranges from 1000 to 3500 and the drag coefficient Cd ranges from 0.75 to 2.0.The calculated wave heights, using the analytical expression from literature and the proposed relationship for the estimation of Cd, are in satisfactory agreement with those measured. Wave orbital velocities are shown to be significantly attenuated inside the meadow and just above the flume bed as indicated by the calculation of an attenuation parameter. Near the meadow edge, energy transfer is found in spectral wave velocities from the longer to the shorter wave period components. From the analysis it is shown that the submerged vegetation attenuates mostly longer waves.  相似文献   

20.
通过在海口湾北部海域布置波浪观测站,对采集到的实测波浪资料进行统计和波谱分析,研究了琼州海峡波浪季节性变化特征。观测期间最大波高为5.6 m,发生在台风"莎莉嘉"经过期间。无台风影响的月份最大波高为3.0 m。年平均十分之一大波波高、年平均有效波高、年平均波高分别为0.5 m、0.4 m、0.3 m,该海域波高总体不大。波周期范围主要在2~7 s区间。研究结果表明:1)观测海区各月基本都受到东北风影响并存在东北向的波浪; 2)发现海区波浪类型主要是风浪为主的混合浪; 3)发现观测海区一直受到南海传入的长周期波影响; 4)海区风向与浪向的一致性在东北季风影响时段明显强于西南季风影响时段,风速与波高的相关性在东北季风影响时段明显强于西南季风影响时段,该现象在台风月份表现得尤其明显。  相似文献   

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