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1.
Shigehisa Nakamura 《Journal of Oceanography》1977,33(1):47-53
By a model bay with a mouth and a narrow, an experiment on long period waves is carried out to discuss the behavior of the tsunamis and storm surges. Emphasis is placed on the analysis of the characteristics of the current velocities associated with the long period waves incoming through the mouth in terms of Ursell's parameter. 相似文献
2.
月池内流体存在活塞和晃荡两类振荡现象。基于线性势流理论,推导了波浪斜向入射下,直墙前矩形月池辐射和绕射问题的解析解。通过分离变量法和特征函数展开法求解了速度势函数,根据边界条件来确定速度势函数中的未知系数,由速度势函数计算斜向波与矩形月池相互作用的水动力系数和波浪激励力,对它们的变化规律进行了分析讨论,研究了底部开口大小、波浪入射角度对矩形月池水动力特性的影响以及直墙远近对波浪力的影响。结果表明,月池底部开口大小对流体水平作用的影响较小,而对流体垂直作用的影响较大;波浪入射角度的变化对矩形月池横荡和横摇运动时的水动力特性有一定的影响;在一定条件下,直墙的存在会使得月池在水平方向所受到的波浪力比开敞水域中的要大。 相似文献
3.
Oceanology - Abstract—The nonlinear problem of run-up of a long wave on a plane beach in presence of a tide is solved within nonlinear shallow water theory using the Carrier–Greenspan... 相似文献
4.
The transformation of a nonlinear wave in shallow water is investigated analytically and numerically within the framework of long-wave theory. It is shown that the nonlinearity parameter (the Mach number), which is defined as the ratio of the particle velocity in the wave to the propagation velocity, can be well above unity in a deep trough and that a jump appears initially in the trough. It is demonstrated that shockwave amplitudes at large times change in accordance with the prediction of weakly nonlinear theory. The shock front generates a reflected wave, which, in turn, transforms into a shock wave if the initial amplitude is large enough. The amplitude of the reflected wave is proportional to the cube of the initial amplitude (as predicted by weakly nonlinear theory) over a wide range of amplitudes except for the case of anomalously strong nonlinearity. When there is a sign-variable sufficiently intense initial perturbation, the basic wave transforms into a positive shock pulse (crest) and the reflected wave turns into a negative pulse (trough). 相似文献
5.
Goh Onitsuka Yutaka Yoshikawa Tomoyuki Shikata Kei Yufu Kazuo Abe Takahisa Tokunaga Katsunori Kimoto Takeshi Matsuno 《Journal of Oceanography》2018,74(4):351-365
The temporal evolution of a thin phytoplankton layer was observed by field measurements using a research vessel and mooring instruments in the Yatsushiro Sea, a semi-enclosed narrow embayment in Japan, in early August 2013. The subsurface chlorophyll maximum developed into a thin layer within 2 days just below the pycnocline at around 10-m depth, where turbulent mixing (the dissipation rate of turbulent kinetic energy) was weak (low). The layer persisted for 1.5 to 2 days and declined after irradiance drastically decreased at the sea surface. At the peak period, the layer thickness, which is defined as the full-width at half-maximum of the peak in chlorophyll a concentration, ranged from 0.6 to 1.4 m, and the maximum concentration reached 42.3 mg m?3. The horizontal extent of the layer was approximately 10 km along the longitudinal axis of the bay. The phytoplankton population characterized by the layer was dominated by a chain-forming centric diatom, Chaetoceros spp. The formation mechanisms of the thin diatom layer were investigated using the observed data and a vertical one-dimensional model that includes physical and biological processes. The results suggest that the development of the thin layer was caused by in situ growth and aggregation due to nutrient-dependent sinking of the species under weak turbulence. The study highlights that continuous multidisciplinary observations and understanding species-specific physiological responses to environmental variations are necessary to elucidate drastically fluctuating phytoplankton dynamics in a coastal water. 相似文献
6.
This study introduces a method of calculating a capsizing rate of a ship. The phenomenon ‘capsizing’ is described as a jump of local equilibrium point from that near the upright position of a ship to what describes the upside-down attitude of the capsized ship; the rate of occurrence of such jumps was calculated. The potential function corresponding to the roll restoring moment have two potential wells located at the roll displacement angle 0 and 180°, respectively. A nonlinear Fokker–Planck equation for the joint probability density function of roll angle and velocity was solved. The excitation to the ship was assumed to be a combination of a regular harmonic wave and a white noise process. 相似文献
7.
The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory. 相似文献
8.
Using a vertically two-dimensional, two-layer model, we have analytically examined the generation mechanism of a nonzero Eulerian
residual flow by strong tide-topography interaction in a narrow channel where the frictional effect is not included. In this
case, tidally generated baroclinic disturbances are forced non-uniformly in space and time while being advected by a strong tidal flow over the non-uniform slope of the bottom topography. Consequently, nonzero Eulerian residual flow results when averaged over one tidal period.
Although the time average of the velocity field is thus nonzero, the associated Eulerian residual transport in each layer
is compensated by a Stokes transport so that no Lagrangian residual transport results in both layers. This warns us that simple
time averaging of the velocity data obtained at a fixed mooring station might lead to a spurious material transport.
This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
9.
In this study, a mathematical integrated model is developed to investigate the wave-induced sloping seabed response in the vicinity of breakwater. In the present model, the wave model is based on the Volume-Averaged/Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes (VARANS) equations, while Biot's consolidation equation is used to govern the soil model. The influence of turbulence fluctuations on the mean flow with respect to the complicated interaction between wave, sloping seabed and breakwater are obtained by solving the Volume-Averaged k − ϵ model. Unlike previous investigations, the phase-resolved absolute shear stress is used as the source of accumulation of residual pore pressure, which can link the oscillatory and residual mechanisms simultaneously. Based on the proposed model, parametric studies regarding the effects of wave and soil characteristics as well as bed slopes on the wave-induced soil response in the vicinity of breakwater are investigated. Numerical results indicate that wave-induced seabed instability is more likely to occur in a steep slope in the case of soil with low relative density and low permeability under large wave loadings. It is also found that, the permeability of breakwater significantly affect the potential for liquefaction, especially in the region below the breakwater. 相似文献
10.
Using an eddy-resolving two layer primitive-equation model forced by symmetric wind stress, we investigate the asymmetry of the recirculation of a double gyre (subpolar gyre and subtropical gyre). In the case where the layer thickness change is large, cyclonic recirculation becomes unstable and splits into meso-scale vortices more easily than anti-cyclonic recirculation in their developing stage. The subpolar gyre is, therefore, filled with more vortices than the subtropical gyre. Moreover, the effect of the upper layer potential vorticity on the lower layer potential vorticity in the subpolar gyre is stronger than that in the subtropical gyre. The characteristic of turbulence in the subpolar gyre is different from that found in the subtropical gyre and, therefore, the asymmetry of the recirculation of the double gyre is maintained by this difference. The asymmetry can not be produced in a quasi-geostrophic model because it ignores the nonlinearity associated with layer thickness change. Moreover, we investigate the effects of layer thickness and lateral viscosity on the asymmetry of the recirculation of the double gyre. In the case of realistic physical parameters, the asymmetry of the recirculation of the double gyre is noticeable from the view of the activities of the eddies. In the case with the shallowest upper layer, the position of separation of the western boundary current moves further southward. 相似文献
11.
You Ah Kim Chang Suk Kong Young Ran Um Jung Im Lee Taek Jeong Nam Youngwan Seo 《Ocean Science Journal》2008,43(1):31-37
As a part of an ongoing search for antioxidants frodm marine sources, antioxidant activities of 24 kinds of seaweeds (4 green
algae, 8 brown algae, and 12 red algae) were investigated. The seaweeds were extracted by acetone/ dichloromethane and methanol,
respectively. The antioxidant properties of both extracts were evaluated using four different activity tests, including degree
of occurrence of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), NO, lipid peroxidation, and GSH (glutathione) in mouse macrophage
Raw 264.7 cells. The levels of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and GSH were measured using 2’,7’-dichlorofluorescin
diacetate (DCF-DA) and monobromobimane as fluorescence probe, respectively. Moreover, the generation of NO and lipid peroxidation
products were determined by each method based on the Griess reaction and TBARS assay. Solvent extracts from seaweeds such
asScytosiphon lomentaria, Prionitis cornea, Laruencia okamurae,Callophyllis japonica, Sargassum horneri, Dictyopteris divaricat a,Lomentaria catenata, Corallina confuse, Ishige okamurae, andAhnfeltiopsis flabelliformi exhibited high antioxidant activities in cellular oxidizing systems. 相似文献
12.
13.
The purpose of this paper is to optimise the hydroelastic performance of a composite marine propeller to reduce vibration and dynamic stress. A hydroelasticity method based on the finite element method (FEM) coupled with computational fluid dynamics (CFD) is used to simulate the composite marine propeller in a non-uniform wake. Composite blades can be considered as a cantilever-like laminated structure experiencing an unsteady hydrodynamic load and centrifugal force. The objective of the improved design is to minimise the vibratory hub loads. The ply angle and stacking sequence are considered as the design variables. The nonlinear periodic transient responses and vibration hub loads of the composite blade are obtained by solving coupled equations using the Newton–Raphson numerical procedure. Compared to the starting design of the propeller, the optimum solution results in a 49.6–70.6% reduction of the 7/rev hub loads. 相似文献
14.
In this paper, an exact analytical method is developed for the problem of wave radiation by a uniform cylinder in front of a vertical wall. Based on the image principle, the hydrodynamic problem of a cylinder in front of a vertical wall is transformed into the equivalent problem of double cylinders in unbounded fluid domain. Consequently, an analytical method of eigenfunction expansion is adopted to calculate the radiation of the cylinder due to the motion in surge, sway, roll and pitch, respectively. Moreover, numerical analysis has been carried out in detail in order to discuss the influences of the distance between the cylinder and the vertical wall and water depth on the added mass and radiation damping of the cylinder. It is shown that added mass and damping of the cylinder in front of a vertical wall are evidently different from those in case of the cylinder in unbounded fluid domain from the numerical results. It is also found that the added mass and radiation damping oscillate with wave number, and the oscillating frequency increases with the increasing of the distance between the cylinder and the wall. 相似文献
15.
波浪对直墙前垂直圆柱的绕射 总被引：1，自引：2，他引：1
应用映像原理，将直墙前单个圆柱对波浪的绕射问题，变换为双柱对双向波浪的绕射问题，应用速度势的特征展开方法，建立了直墙前垂直圆柱对波浪绕射的解析解。通过数值计算研究了圆柱与直墙间距离大小、波浪入射角等因素对圆柱上总波浪作用力的影响。计算结果表明，直墙前圆柱上的波浪力将成倍地增加，且随着波数的变化而发生振荡。 相似文献
16.
R. H. Wilkinson 《Geo-Marine Letters》1986,5(4):231-239
Velocity profiles, suspended sand concentration, and ripple shapes were measured over the tidal cycle on a mobile bed. Variations in ripple shape or dimensions, and the effects of mobile sediment could not account for the variations in bed roughness length, which increased systematically during the tide from 0.5 to 1.3 cm. The effects of acceleration could be the cause as they would lead to the same pattern of variation, but existing theory does not give the correct magnitude. 相似文献
17.
R. H. Wilkinson 《Geo-Marine Letters》1985,5(4):231-239
Velocity profiles, suspended sand concentration, and ripple shapes were measured over the tidal cycle on a mobile bed. Variations in ripple shape or dimensions, and the effects of mobile sediment could not account for the variations in bed roughness length, which increased systematically during the tide from 0.5 to 1.3 cm. The effects of acceleration could be the cause as they would lead to the same pattern of variation, but existing theory does not give the correct magnitude. 相似文献
18.
The dynamic characteristics of a circular cylindrical shell in contact with a liquid are theoretically studied. The cantilevered cylindrical shell with open ends is partially submerged in a liquid which is unbounded in the radial direction, but bounded by a rigid and flat bottom. Since the liquid is assumed to be incompressible and inviscid, the liquid motion can be described as the velocity potentials written in terms of the appropriate Bessel functions for both the inner and the outer liquid regions. The compatibility of the dynamic displacement along the contacting surfaces between the shell and liquid leads the resulting equations, satisfying both the shell and liquid motions, which are solved by using the collocation method. Finally, the Rayleigh–Ritz method is applied to extract the wet natural frequencies and the mode shapes of the liquid-coupled system. The validity of the theoretical method is established with the aid of a commercial finite element computer code. In order to evaluate the dynamic characteristics of the liquid-coupled system, the effects of the submerged depth and the axial gap between the bottom end of the shell and the bottom surface of the liquid are demonstrated. 相似文献
19.
This paper concerns the design of feedback control systems to maximize power generation of a wave energy converter (WEC) in a random sea. In the literature on WEC control, most of the proposed feedback controllers fall into three categories. Many are static; i.e., they extract power by imposing an equivalent damping or resistive load on the power take-off (PTO) devices. Others are dynamic and are designed to maximize power generation at all frequencies, which results in an anticausal feedback law. Other dynamic control design methods are causal, and are tuned to achieve the anticausal performance at only a single frequency. By contrast, this paper illustrates that the determination of the true optimal causal dynamic controller for a WEC can be found as the solution to a nonstandard linear quadratic Gaussian (LQG) optimal control problem. The theory assumes that the control system must make power generation decisions based only on present and past measurements of the generator voltages and/or velocities. It is shown that unlike optimal anticausal control, optimal causal control requires knowledge of the stationary spectral characteristics of the random sea state. Additionally, it is shown that the efficiency of the generator factors into the feedback synthesis. The theory is illustrated on a linear dynamical model for a buoy-type WEC with significant resonant modes in surge and pitch, and equipped with three spatially-distributed generators. 相似文献
20.
Yoshihiro Mazda 《Journal of Oceanography》1985,41(4):225-234
For a vertical two-dimensional field with a sill at a bay entrance, the tidal exchange mechanism is discussed.The schematic model is proposed as follows. The tidal trapping effect which is detected at the entrance section,i. e., the material transport due to the phase difference between the tidal periodic constituent of material concentration and tidal current at the entrance section, results because the oscillatory tidal flow at the sill entrance induces a gravitational flow along the sill slope inside the entrance. Accordingly, the tidal trapping effect depends largely upon the difference in water density between the bay and open sea and the density stratification in the bay.This model is supported by the observations at Kabira Cove (Okinawa Pref.) and Lake Hamana (Shizuoka Pref.) in 1976 through 1984. In addition, based on this model, in the case of Lake Hamana, the activity of the tidal exchange is inferred to change seasonally. 相似文献