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1.
The uncertainty associated with simulations of process-based coastal area morphodynamic models is assessed through numerical experimentation. Appropriate metrics of uncertainty are defined based on the standard deviation of the model results at each location and each time step. Uncertainty is examined using a set of realistic one year morphodynamic simulations of the evolution of a highly dynamic tidal inlet. Results indicate that uncertainty increases linearly with time, and suggest that its rate grows with increasing sediment fluxes. Hence, the limits of predictability of morphodynamic model applications are higher for slowly varying systems. Attempts to reduce uncertainty by aggregating model results at larger spatial scales met with limited success. Ensemble simulations are suggested as a possible avenue to investigate the long-term evolution of tidal inlets using process-based models.  相似文献   

2.
The proposed model allows the satisfactory reproduction of the changes in the profile geometry in each time step depending on the sediment budgets in a given morphodynamic system. The applied modification to the general Bruun rule governing the conservation of mass must account for the effect of the sediment transport, which is described in terms of the erosion and accretion rates (Er and and Ac, respectively). The scale of the erosion is a function of the total annual wave energy flux reaching the beach. The accretion is governed by the Er, on the one hand, and by the sediment budget in the morphodynamic system, on the other hand. The equilibrium profile obtained for the case of a balanced sediment budget (Er = Ac) shows good agreement with the observed profiles. A deficit or surplus in the sediment budget results in the shoreline??s retreat or advance accompanied by either a decrease or increase in the slope of the bottom profile. The model accounts for different types of shoreline responses to changes in the sea level (the Bruun rule, the development of a coastal barrier, and abrasion). Sediment budget imbalances can be a factor in the profile??s evolution due to changes in the sea level, while the combination of both factors will produce a variety of behaviors of the shoreline, as was shown by our calculations. The model was verified using historical data on the behavior of the Central Holland coast and the Abkhazian coast during the Late Holocene. It was shown that the model satisfactory reproduces the progradation of coastal barriers. An example of a relatively short-term forecast (over a 100-year period) is given.  相似文献   

3.
The numerical modeling of coastal inundation from severe cyclones is a challenging area for coastal hazard mapping, emergency planning and evacuation measures. There is a need for realistic estimate of onshore coastal inundation by the operational weather centers for precise warnings to minimize loss of life and property. At present, there is no modeling effort to evaluate the extent of coastal inundation for any coastal state in India. The operational center disseminates information only on peak surge and its location just before cyclone landfall, with no prior information about onshore inundation. To bridge this gap, the present study applies the state-of-art ADCIRC hydrodynamic model to evaluate peak surge and onshore inundation along coastal Tamil Nadu for the December 2011 Thane cyclone event. Post-storm analysis and field reconnaissance survey report from IMD and ICMAM were available for the Thane cyclone to skill assess model computation. The model that computed peak surge and onshore inundation is in good concurrence with field measurements. The study signifies that near-shore beach slope has a direct bearing on onshore inundation, and its importance in numerical modeling is highlighted. This study being first of its kind for Indian coast, emphasized that coastal inundation modeling should form an integral part in a storm surge prediction system for operational needs.  相似文献   

4.
Abstract

This article examines whether Digital Elevation Model (DEM) resolution affects the accuracy of predicted coastal inundation extent using LISFLOOD-FP, with application to a sandy coastline in New Jersey. DEMs with resolution ranging from 10 to 100 m were created using coastal elevation data from NOAA, using the North American Vertical Datum of 1988. A two-dimensional hydrodynamic flood model was developed in LISFLOOD-FP using each DEM, all of which were calibrated and validated against an observed 24-h tidal cycle and used to simulate a 1.5 m storm surge. While differences in predicted inundated area from all models were within 1.0%, model performance and computational time worsened and decreased with coarser DEM resolution, respectively. This implied that using a structured grid model for modeling coastal flood vulnerability is based on two trade-offs: high DEM resolution coupled with computational intensity, but higher precision in model predictions, and vice versa. Furthermore, water depth predictions from all DEMs were consistent. Using an integrated numerical modeling and GIS approach, a two-scale modeling strategy, where a coarse DEM is used to predict water levels for projection onto a fine DEM was found to be an effective, and computationally efficient approach for obtaining reliable estimates of coastal inundation extent.  相似文献   

5.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(1):39-48
This paper describes a simple method for modelling wave breaking over submerged structures, with the view of using such modelling approach in a coastal area morphodynamic modelling system.A dominant mechanism for dissipating wave energy over a submerged breakwater is depth-limited wave breaking. Available models for energy dissipation due to wave breaking are developed for beaches (gentle slopes) and require further modifications to model wave breaking over submerged breakwaters.In this paper, wave breaking is split into two parts, namely: 1) depth-limited breaking modelled using Battjes and Janssen's (1978) theory [Battjes, J.A. and Jannsen, J.P.F.M. (1978). Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves. Proceedings of the 16th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng., Hamburg, Germany, pp. 569-587.] and 2) steepness limited breaking modelled using an integrated form of the Hasselmann's whitecapping dissipation term, commonly used in fully spectral wind–wave models. The parameter γ2, governing the maximum wave height at incipient breaking (Hmax = γ2d) is used as calibration factor to tune numerical model results to selected laboratory measurements. It is found that γ2 varies mainly with the relative submergence depth (ratio of submergence depth at breakwater crest to significant wave height), and a simple relationship is proposed. It is shown that the transmission coefficients obtained using this approach compare favourably with those calculated using published empirical expressions.  相似文献   

6.
In an earlier paper a particular discrete wavelet transform (DWT) was used to study the complex variation of beach profile changes. However, use of the DWT requires that the sequence of spatial and temporal resolution is fixed as a dyadic sequence, which means that the variability over longer intervals is not characterised well. Here we introduce the discrete wavelet packet transform (DWPT) that uses an adaptive scaling to partition the data variance, according to an entropy cost function. The advantages of this approach are demonstrated by its application to the study of temporal variability of a 22 year record of beach profile data from the Field Research Facility (FRF) at Duck, North Carolina, USA. Time series of beach elevations at three locations across a particular profile are investigated in detail. We conclude that the DWPT provides a superior analysis of non-stationary time series to that of the DWT, with improved resolution of the scale intervals of the variability. The beach elevation around the shoreline is shown to respond at both sub-annual and interannual scales, but variability at an annual scale is weak. Moving seaward into deeper water, the variance is partitioned into fewer and longer scales. It is confirmed that elevation changes around the inner bar at Duck exhibit a strong interannual variation consistent with Plant et al. (Plant, N.G., Holman, R.A. and Freilich, M.H., 1999. A simple model for interannual sandbar behaviour. Journal of Geophysical Research 104(C7), 15755–15776). Around 23% of the variance around the inner bar is explained at the temporal scale of 64–128 months, which is consistent with the bar behaviour of 6 years found by Ruessink et al. (Ruessink, B. G., Wijnberg, K. M., Holman, R. A., Kuriyama, Y. and Van Enckevort, I. M. J., 2003. Intersite comparison of interannual nearshore bar behaviour. Journal of Geophysical Research, 108 (C8): 1–12). A significant new finding is, however, that about 26% of the variance is attributable to temporal scales of 16–21.3 months. Reconstruction of the wavelet packet components for individual temporal scales is shown to provide a means for identifying the impact and scale of non-stationary events, such as storms, on the beach response. This provides further information that can be used to interpret the morphological changes in terms of the forcing processes and also serves to inform morphodynamic modelling.  相似文献   

7.
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8.
《Ocean Modelling》2007,16(1-2):106-140
Mixing in both coastal and deep ocean emerges as one of the important processes that determines the transport of pollutants, sediments and biological species, as well as the details of the global thermohaline circulation. Both the observations, due to their lack in space and time resolution, and most coastal and general circulation models due to inadequate physics, can only provide partial information about oceanic mixing processes. A new class of nonhydrostatic models supplemented with physically based subgrid-scale (SGS) closures, or so-called large eddy simulation (LES), is put forth as another tool of investigation to complement observational and large-scale modeling efforts.However, SGS models have been developed primarily for homogeneous, isotropic flows. Here, four SGS models based on Smagorinsky eddy viscosity and diffusivity are tested for stratified flows in the context of 2D dam-break problem in a rectangular enclosed domain. This idealized testbed leads to a number of simplifications about the initial conditions, boundary conditions and geometry, while exhibiting the dynamically complex characteristics of stratified flows involving the interaction of shear-induced mixing and internal waves. Direct numerical simulations (DNS) at high resolutions are taken as benchmark solutions. Under-resolved simulations without SGS terms (so-called DNS1) are used to quantify the impact of SGS stresses. The performance of LES is assessed by using the time evolution of the volume fraction of intermediate density water masses generated by mixing. The simulations are conducted using a nonhydrostatic high-order spectral element model Nek5000 developed to exhibit minimal numerical dissipation and dispersion errors, which is advantageous to quantify accurately the impact of SGS stresses.It is found that all tested SGS models lead to improved results with respect to those from DNS1. Also, SGS models allow for simulations with coarse resolutions that blow up in DNS1 due to lack of adequate dissipation where needed. The SGS model in which the vertical eddy diffusion is modulated via a function that depends on the Richardson number Ri shows the most faithful reproduction of mixed water masses at all resolutions tested.The sensitivity of the results to the tunable parameter of the SGS model, to changes in the Ri-dependent function and resolution of the turbulent overturning scales is shown.  相似文献   

9.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,37(1):37-56
The seasonal closure of tidal inlets is a common and important coastal phenomena. However, studies which have been specifically geared to identify processes governing seasonal inlet closure are almost non-existent. Hence, this study was undertaken to gain insight into processes governing seasonal inlet closure. To determine the processes governing this phenomenon, Wilson Inlet, Western Australia, a typical seasonally open tidal inlet is taken as a case study. The study comprised of a field experiment over the summer of 1995, and a numerical modeling exercise employing a morphodynamic model. Results of the field study imply that longshore processes may not be the cause of inlet closure, but that onshore sediment transport due to persistent swell wave conditions in summer may govern seasonal closure of the inlet. Application of a morphodynamic model, which includes both cross-shore and longshore processes, to Wilson Inlet conclusively shows that seasonal closure of the inlet is due to onshore sediment transport under typical summer conditions. The effects of summer streamflow and storm events, which are not uncommon, are also examined using the morphodynamic model. The effect of both streamflow and storm events on the `open duration' of the inlet is shown to be dependent on the intensity and timing of the event.  相似文献   

10.
四叉树网格下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型研究   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  
唐军  李巧生  沈永明 《海洋学报》2013,35(5):162-168
波浪是近岸海域关键的水动力因素之一。考虑到近岸地形复杂、波浪演化显著的特点,建立了四叉树网格体系下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型,采用有限体积法对模型进行数值离散,应用GPBiCG(m, n)算法求解离散后的控制方程。模型中根据波浪波长布局计算网格,生成多层次四叉树网格,对复杂计算域有较好的适应性,并且在离散和方程求解中无需引入形函数、不产生复杂的交叉项,节约了存储空间和计算时间。将模型成功应用于物理模型实验及Acapulco海湾的波浪场数值模拟,结果表明该模型能够准确、高效地模拟近岸波浪场,可为近岸波浪场的模拟提供一定的理论和技术支持。  相似文献   

11.
Dissolved organic nitrogen (DON) dynamics in the North Sea was explored by means of long-term time series of nitrogen parameters from the Dutch national monitoring program. Generally, the data quality was good with little missing data points. Different imputation methods were used to verify the robustness of the patterns against these missing data. No long-term trends in DON concentrations were found over the sampling period (1995–2005). Inter-annual variability in the different time series showed both common and station-specific behavior. The stations could be divided into two regions, based on absolute concentrations and the dominant times scales of variability. Average DON concentrations were 11 μmol l−1 in the coastal region and 5 μmol l−1 in the open sea. Organic fractions of total dissolved nitrogen (TDN) averaged 38 and 71% in the coastal zone and open sea, respectively, but increased over time due to decreasing dissolved inorganic nitrogen (DIN) concentrations. In both regions intra-annual variability dominated over inter-annual variability, but DON variation in the open sea was markedly shifted towards shorter time scales relative to coastal stations. In the coastal zone a consistent seasonal DON cycle existed with high values in spring–summer and low values in autumn–winter. In the open sea seasonality was weak. A marked shift in the seasonality was found at the Dogger Bank, with DON accumulation towards summer and low values in winter prior to 1999, and accumulation in spring and decline throughout summer after 1999. This study clearly shows that DON is a dynamic actor in the North Sea and should be monitored systematically to enable us to understand fully the functioning of this ecosystem.  相似文献   

12.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,37(1):1-36
Seasonally open tidal inlets usually occur in microtidal, wave-dominated coastal environments where strong seasonal variations of streamflow and wave climate are experienced. These inlets are closed to the ocean for a number of months every year due to the formation of sand bars across their entrances. The annual closure of these inlets inhibits ocean access for boats and could also cause deterioration of water quality in the estuary/lagoon connected to the inlet. As these estuaries/lagoons are commonly used as harbours or recreational facilities there is increased interest in keeping the inlets permanently open. A process-based numerical model capable of simulating inlet closure is invaluable in terms of identifying the natural processes governing inlet closure. As a further step, this type of model could also be used to determine the effect of any proposed engineering solutions to keep the inlet open on the adjacent beaches. A morphodynamic model capable of simulating the seasonal closure of inlets, which includes both longshore (LST) and cross-shore transport (CST) processes, was developed in this study. Application of the model to two idealised scenarios indicated that cross-shore processes govern inlet behaviour when LST rates were low. The Dean's criterion [Dean, R.G., 1973. Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone. Proc. Conf. on Eng. Dynamics in the Surf Zone, Sydney, pp. 208–214.] for on–offshore transport was employed to show that, for small offshore wave incidence angles, onshore transport aided inlet closure when the offshore wave steepness (Ho/Lo) was less than the critical wave steepness (Ho/Lo)crit, while offshore transport helped to keep the inlet open when (Ho/Lo) was greater than (Ho/Lo)crit. LST was found to be the dominant process leading to inlet closure when (Ho/Lo) was much larger than (Ho/Lo)crit or when the offshore wave incidence angle was large.  相似文献   

13.
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14.
A numerical and experimental modeling is presented for studying the transport of waste heat from a nuclear power plant into coastal water by using a full-field physical model with scale distortion, a local physical model with normal scale and a depth-averaged k− turbulence model with a modified second-order upwind scheme. Field investigations are also used to provide the calibration and validation of the modeling. A case study simulating the turbulent tidal flow and waste heat transport in the coastal water near Daya Bay Nuclear Power Plant in Southern China was conducted. The experimental result of the case study shows that the water temperature in coastal water was a little oversimulated near the surface and was a little undersimulated near the bottom of heated-water layer by the full-field physical model. The numerical study shows that the depth-averaged k− turbulence model presented a satisfied prediction of turbulent tidal flow and far-field temperature distribution in coastal water, although the near-field stratification due to the heated water effluent was not accounted for. The result of the effect of scale distortion on physical model shows that a full-field physical model with a scale distortion of 10 produced a satisfied result of temperature distribution in the present case study.  相似文献   

15.
An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).  相似文献   

16.
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17.
Habitat fragmentation in meadows of Posidonia oceanica, the most important and abundant seagrass in the Mediterranean Sea, was investigated at a region-wide spatial scale using a synthetic ecological index, the Patchiness Index (PI). We tested the hypothesis that human impacts are the major factor responsible for habitat fragmentation in P. oceanica meadows contrasting fragmentation of meadows located in “anthropized” areas with that of meadows located in areas with low anthropization and considered as virtually “natural”. We also related fragmentation of meadow with the morphodynamic state of the submerged beach (i.e. distinctive types of beach produced by the topography, the wave climate and the sediment composition) in order to investigate the influence of one natural component on the seagrass meadow seascape. Results demonstrated that fragmentation in the P. oceanica meadows is strongly influenced by the human component, being lower in natural meadows than in anthropized ones, and that it is little influenced by the morphodynamic state of the coast. The use of landscape approaches to discriminate natural disturbance from human impacts that affect seagrass meadows is thus recommended for the proper management of coastal zones.  相似文献   

18.
Morphodynamic modeling is employed in the present work to predict the long-term evolution (over the next 100 years) of typical sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic. The studied objects are the coasts of Varandey (the Barents Sea), Baydaratskaya Bay and Harasavey (the Kara Sea). The model developed takes into account both the short-term processes (storm events) and long-term factors (for example, changes in sea level, inter-annual variations in gross sediment flux, lack or excess of sediment supply). Predicted and observed morphological changes in coastal profiles are shown to agree well for time scales ranging from weeks to decades. It is revealed that under given environmental conditions, the morphological evolution is strongly influenced by storm surges and associated wind-driven circulation. The water level gradient created by a surge generates a seaward flow at the bed. This outflow is shown to be an important destructive mechanism contributing to the erosion and recession of Arctic coasts. The rate of change is found to depend on both the exposure of the coast (relative to the direction of dominant winds) and its height above the sea. The open coast of Varandey is expected to retreat as much as 300–500 m over 100 years, while recession of the less exposed coasts of Baydaratskaya Bay would not exceed about 100 m/century. If long-term sediment losses are insignificant, the rate of erosion decays with time and the morphodynamic system may tend toward equilibrium. It is concluded that the expected relative sea-level rise (up to 1 m over the nearest 100 years) is non-crucial to the future coastal evolution if an erosion activity is already high enough.  相似文献   

19.
At high bed shear stress sheet flows often occur in coastal waters in which high-concentration bedload sediments are transported in a thin layer near the bed. This paper firstly constructs a theoretical model (partial differential equations, PDEs) for the intense transport of non-cohesive bedload sediments by unidirectional currents and then seeks a special solution to the PDEs to determine the thickness of the bedload particle–water mixture, which could serve as the “reference height” that is often invoked in numerical computation and simulation of suspended sediment transport in turbulent flows. Moreover, a modified formula is presented to determine the “reference concentration”. Using a “uch” approach the present study derives a 1D formula for predicting bedload transport rate in sheet flows driven by asymmetric waves, with the help of a novel formula for evaluating wave friction factor. The new bedload formula can generically take into account slope angle (positive and negative), wash load concentration in the driving water flow and other factors that affect bedload transport rate. It compares well with measured data in a large-scale wave flume [Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., 2002. Sheet flow dynamics under monochromatic non-breaking waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 107(C10), 1301–1321], a large-scale oscillatory water tunnel [ Hassan, W.N., Ribberink, J.S., 2005. Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow. Coastal Engineering, 52, 745–770] and in a swash zone of natural beach [Masselink, G., Hughes, M.G., 1998. Field investigation of sediment transport in the swash zone. Continental Shelf Research, 18, 1179–1199].  相似文献   

20.
A simple three-dimensional model of a time-dependent coastal upwelling is discussed for time scales of several days to a week, with the linear, two-layer, flat-bottom and ?-plane approximation. Emphasis is placed on the effects of longshore scales determined by the longshore variabilities in the wind stress distributions. The responses of the inshore motions are shown to depend critically on the longshore scales. For a certain wide range of the scales, the system reveals dominantly baroclinic responses and a full development of the poleward coastal undercurrent without β effect. Somewhat detailed discussions are given on the coastal upwelling, the coastal jet and the poleward undercurrent, which are interpreted simply as the orbital velocities of the forced Kelvin-type waves.  相似文献   

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