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1.
A.F. Velegrakis M.I. VousdoukasA.M. Vagenas Th. KarambasK. Dimou Th. Zarkadas 《Coastal Engineering》2007
This short contribution reports the results of a field study on the nearshore characteristics of waves generated by both conventional and high speed passenger ferries. The field observations took place in the late summer of 2005, at a beach close to the port of Mytilene (Island of Lesbos, Greece), and involved the visual observation of ship waves, using digital video recordings and image processing techniques. The results showed that passage of the fast ferry was associated with a longer, more complex and energetic nearshore event; this event not only did include higher nearshore waves (up to 0.74 m) and was organised in different wave packets, but it was also an order of magnitude longer (∼ 680 s) than the conventional ferry event. Regarding the effects on beach sediment dynamics, the fast ferry waves were estimated to be very efficient in mobilising the nearshore sediments in contrast to those of the conventional ferry. The fast ferry service appears to generate daily prolonged nearshore events, which contain waves with higher energy than those expected from the normal summer wind wave regime of the area; these events also include some high and very steep waves, which can be particularly erosive. Therefore, fast ferry wakes may have considerable impacts on the seasonal beach sediment dynamics/morphodynamics and the nearshore benthic ecology, as well as they may pose significant risks to bathers, affecting the recreational use of the beaches exposed to fast ferry traffic. Finally, the study has shown that satisfactory field observations of the nearshore characteristics of ship-generated (and wind) waves can be obtained using inshore deployments of calibrated poles, digital video cameras and appropriate image processing algorithms. 相似文献
2.
《Coastal Engineering》2002,45(1):19-32
The remote sensing of the sea surface is commonly regarded as a logistically simple and cost-effective way of obtaining long-term (>years) time series of nearshore sandbar location. In this paper, we demonstrate that, similar to video imagery, time-exposure X-band (∼3 cm wave length) radar images contain alongshore, breaking-related high-intensity bands that can be used to compute the location of the underlying sandbar crests. Analysis of time-exposure X-band images and bathymetric surveys collected at Egmond aan Zee, Netherlands shows that the radar-based bar crest location, defined as the cross-shore location of maximum radar intensity, differs from the in situ surveyed crest location by a distance of O(10 m). This difference, Δx̄radar, depends linearly on the offshore water level, consistent with model predictions in which the radar intensity is assumed to behave as the energy of the surface roller. The model additionally suggests a dependence of Δx̄radar on the offshore wave height when the wave field across the bar is non-saturated. In general, such wave conditions did not result in radar images with sufficient contrast to determine the bar crest location and, accordingly, the wave-height dependence was not observed clearly in the field. Because of the dependence of Δx̄radar on the offshore water level, time series of radar-based bar crest location show artificial variability when the images are collected at different water levels. Various techniques for correcting this variability are discussed. 相似文献
3.
4.
Holland K.T. Holman R.A. Lippmann T.C. Stanley J. Plant N. 《Oceanic Engineering, IEEE Journal of》1997,22(1):81-92
An approach was developed for using video imagery to quantify, in terms of both spatial and temporal dimensions, a number of naturally occurring (nearshore) physical processes. The complete method is presented, including the derivation of the geometrical relationships relating image and ground coordinates, principles to be considered when working with video imagery and the two-step strategy for calibration of the camera model. The techniques are founded on the principles of photogrammetry, account for difficulties inherent in the use of video signals, and have been adapted to allow for flexibility of use in field studies. Examples from field experiments indicate that this approach is both accurate and applicable under the conditions typically experienced when sampling in coastal regions. Several applications of the camera model are discussed, including the measurement of nearshore fluid processes, sand bar length scales, foreshore topography, and drifter motions. Although we have applied this method to the measurement of nearshore processes and morphologic features, these same techniques are transferable to studies in other geophysical settings 相似文献
5.
《Coastal Engineering》2007,54(6-7):477-491
Over the past 25 years, optical remote sensing has been developed into a very useful tool for sampling the nearshore environment, principally through the use of Argus Stations. However, the capabilities of such systems as scientific tools depend on an understanding of the physics of the camera as an optical sensor (including a detailed knowledge of accuracies and resolution) and of the relationship of optical signals to the geophysical signals they represent. This paper describes the components of Argus Stations with an emphasis on quantitative characterization of the accuracies and resolution of system components. Algorithms for estimation of a range of important nearshore measurements are discussed and their accuracies and ground-truth test results referenced. References to a number of key examples of Argus-based contributions to the scientific literature are cited. Since Argus technology serves as the basis for the CoastView Program, the technical capabilities described below are part of the foundation of CoastView sampling. 相似文献
6.
水下圆形浅滩附近波浪绕射的计算 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程对圆形浅滩附近水域波浪绕射进行了数值计算,计算模型中采用Ｂａｔｔｊｅｓ关系与波数矢量无旋,波能量守恒方程一起联合求解圆形浅滩附近水域波浪折射影响下的波浪要素。本文的数值计算模型对圆形浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象的验证结果表明,计算所得结果与试验结果是吻合的,数学模型是可靠和合理的,具有实用价值。 相似文献
7.
P.S. Pereira L.J. Calliari R. Holman K.T. Holland R.M.C. Guedes C.K. Amorin P.G. Cavalcanti 《Marine Geology》2011,279(1-4):210-221
Besides the different scales within which coastal processes manifest their energy, the majority of the world's coastal regions exhibit forms of sediment heterogeneity that are physically significant. One example of a heterogeneous environment is Cassino beach, located at the southernmost part of Brazil, a fine-grain-sized sandy beach where fluid mud sporadically is transported to the nearshore and eventually onto the beach. At this site in 2005, as part of a field experiment, a video system was installed. Three years after the installation, a large mud transgression event took place in February 2008 and had 5 km of extension. In this context, the goal of the present work is to characterize the mud deposition pattern across the surf zone, describing the consequences of mud on nearshore dynamics using remote sensing techniques, beach profiles and suspended matter concentration. The surveyed beach profiles registered the deposition of fluid mud at the inner surf zone with concentrations up to 12 mg/l. The material was deposited close to the shoreline and had a cross-shore width of 100 m during the first deposition day occupying the entire water column. From surf zone time series of pixel intensity, it was possible to detect the attenuation of the surface wave spectra due to the presence of fluid mud. The combination of video techniques and field data allowed one to follow the formation of a double-layer system, where fluid mud overlays the sandy bottom. The video-based system at Cassino demonstrated that remote detection of fluid mud and quantification of its effect on the nearshore dynamics is feasible. The combination of beach profiles, measurements of suspended matter concentration and intensity timestacks allowed the analysis of the short-term evolution of the mud depositional processes. 相似文献
8.
Quantification of nearshore morphology based on video imaging 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Patricia Soupy Alexander 《Marine Geology》2004,208(1):101-111
The Argus network is a series of video cameras with aerial views of beaches around the world. Intensity contrasts in time exposure images reveal areas of preferential breaking, which are closely tied to underlying bed morphology. This relationship was further investigated, including the effect of tidal elevation and wave height on the presence of wave breaking and its cross-shore position over sand bars. Computerized methods of objectively extracting shoreline and sand bar locations were developed, allowing the vast quantity of data generated by Argus to be more effectively examined. Once features were identified in the images, daily alongshore mean values were taken to create time series of shoreline and sand bar location, which were analyzed for annual cycles and cross-correlated with wave data to investigate environmental forcing and response.These data extraction techniques were applied to images from four of the Argus camera sites. A relationship between wave height and shoreline location was found in which increased wave heights resulted in more landward shoreline positions; given the short lag times over which this correlation was significant, and that the strong annual signal in wave height was not replicated in the shoreline time series, it is likely that this relationship is a result of set-up during periods of large waves. Wave height was also found to have an effect on sand bar location, whereby an increase in wave height resulted in offshore bar migration. This correlation was significant over much longer time lags than the relationship between wave height and shoreline location, and a strong annual signal was found in the location of almost all observed bars, indicating that the sand bars are migrating with changes in wave height. In the case of the site with multiple sand bars, the offshore bars responded more significantly to changes in wave height, whereas the innermost bar seemed to be shielded from incident wave energy by breaking over the other bars. A relationship was also found between a site's mean wave height and inner sand bar location; sites with the highest wave heights tended to have sand bars farther from shore than those with relatively low wave heights. 相似文献
9.
Wave overtopping nearshore coastal structures, such as shore-parallel breakwaters, can significantly alter the current circulation and sediment transport patterns around the structures, which in turn affects the formation of tombolos and salients in the nearshore area. This paper describes the implementation of a wave overtopping module into an existing depth-averaged coastal morphological mode: COAST2D and model applications to investigate the effect of wave overtopping on the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around a group of shore-parallel breakwaters. The hydrodynamic aspects of the model were validated against a series of laboratory conditions. The model was then applied to a study site at Sea Palling, Norfolk, UK, where 9 shore-parallel segmented breakwaters including 4 surface-piercing and 5 low-crested breakwaters are present, for the storm conditions in Nov 2006. The model results were compared with laboratory data and field measurements, showing a good agreement on both hydrodynamics and morphological changes. Further analysis of wave overtopping effect on the nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics reveals that wave overtopping has significant impacts on the nearshore circulation, sediment transport and the resulting morphological changes within such a complex breakwater scheme under the storm and macro-tide conditions. The results indicate the importance of including the wave overtopping in modelling nearshore morphodynamics with the presence of coastal structures. 相似文献
10.
This paper applies computer vision techniques to underwater video images of bioluminescent biota for quantifying, tracking, and identification. Active contour models are adapted for computerized image segmentation, labeling, tracking, and mapping of the bioluminescent plankton recorded by low-light-level video techniques. The system automatically identifies luminous events and extracts features such as duration, size, and coordinates of the point of impact, and uses this information to taxonomically classify the plankton species. This automatic classification can aid oceanographic researchers in characterizing the in situ spatial and temporal relationships of these organisms in their underwater environment. Experiments with real oceanographic data are reported. The results indicate that the approach yields performance comparable to human expert level capability. Furthermore, because the described technique has the potential to rapidly process vast quantities of video data, it may prove valuable for other similar applications 相似文献
11.
Hurricane Ike (2008), with its associated storm surge, caused extensive damage across parts of the northwestern Gulf Coast when it made landfall in the late hours of September 12, 2008 along the upper Texas coast at the upper end of Category 2 intensity. An extensive instrumentation effort allowed the collection of both nearshore and inland wave and water level data as Hurricane Ike passed the Louisiana coast and made landfall in Texas. This article presents the results of a validation effort for the STWAVE model and the bottom friction coefficients applied in the model with comparisons to the Hurricane Ike measured wave data. Examination of STWAVE model results as contour plots and time series of wave height and period; wave spectra at selected time steps and scatter plots of simulated versus modeled wave results allow evaluation of the model performance. STWAVE model results indicate good agreement with the measured nearshore wave data for an open water Manning ‘n’ bottom friction coefficient equal to 0.03 s/m0.33. STWAVE model results indicate good agreement with the measured inshore wave data with Manning ‘n’ bottom friction coefficients equal to values derived from land classification data and applied in the ADCIRC model. 相似文献
12.
Several levels of increasing complexity of transferring wave information from offshore to nearshore have been studied to quantify their influence on extreme beach erosion estimates. Beach profiles which have been monitored since 1976 were used to estimate extreme beach erosion and compared to predictions. Examination of the wave propagation assumptions revolves around two types of offshore to nearshore transfer: excluding or including wave breaking and bottom friction. A second complication is whether still water level variations (ocean tide plus storm surge) are included.The inclusion of various combinations of wave propagation processes other than shoaling and refraction in the wave transfer function changes on the extreme erosion distribution tail through lowering estimates above one year return period. This brings the predicted tails closer to the observations, but does not capture the upper limit of storm demand implied by the extensive beach profile data set. Including wave breaking has a marked effect on probabilistic estimates of beach erosion. The inclusion of bottom friction is less significant. The inclusion of still water level variability in the wave transfer calculation had minimal impact on results for the case study site, where waves were transferred from offshore to water at 20 m depth. These changes were put into perspective by comparing them to changes resulting from limiting beach erosion by adjusting the statistical distributions of peak wave height and storm duration to have maximum limits. We conclude that the proposed improvements on wave transformation methods are as significant as limiting wave erosion potential and worth including. 相似文献
13.
This paper demonstrates a practical step-wise method for modelling wave energy at the landscape scale using GIS and remote sensing techniques at Alphonse Atoll, Seychelles. Inputs are a map of the benthic surface (seabed) cover, a detailed bathymetric model derived from remotely sensed Compact Airborne Spectrographic Imager (CASI) data and information on regional wave heights. Incident energy at the reef crest around the atoll perimeter is calculated as a function of its deepwater value with wave parameters (significant wave height and period) hindcast in the offshore zone using the WaveWatch III application developed by the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration. Energy modifications are calculated at constant intervals as waves transform over the forereef platform along a series of reef profile transects running into the atoll centre. Factors for shoaling, refraction and frictional attenuation are calculated at each interval for given changes in bathymetry and benthic coverage type and a nominal reduction in absolute energy is incorporated at the reef crest to account for wave breaking. Overall energy estimates are derived for a period of 5 years and related to spatial patterning of reef flat surface cover (sand and seagrass patches). 相似文献
14.
Feng Weibing Hong Guangwen
Ph. D Student Hohai University Nanjing .
Professor Hohai University Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1995,(1)
An analytic-numerical solution of wave transformation in shoaling water is presented in this paper. The analytical expression for wave heights along the wave rays is derived in consideration of the combined effect of water depth shoaling, the wave refraction and the sea bottom friction. The wave rays (orthogonals) are calculated by a fourth order Runge-Kutta algorithm and the wave crest lines are computed by an iteration procedure. The numerical results are compared with analytical solution for a special case of parallel- straight contour shore and field data, and comparisons show that the proposed mathematical model and computation method are very useful and convenient for engineering application. 相似文献
15.
《海洋技术学报》2023,(2)
基于遥感影像的测深技术具有易获取、成本低和覆盖率大等优势,是目前的研究热点问题之一。为在波浪折射的基础上,进一步综合考虑绕射及非线性的影响,本文提出了一种基于海浪波数和波高信息的近岸水深反演模型。将模型与Berkhoff 椭圆形浅滩理想试验对比,平均误差为0.13%,显著小于现有基于频散关系反演水深的方法。进一步应用模型反演三亚湾近岸地形,通过与海图对比,平均误差为11.58%,且大部分区域的误差小于10%。部分区域误差较大,主要是由于遥感影像获取的波数空间分辨率和精度较低。以上结果表明该模型可以利用遥感海浪信息较准确推算近岸水深。本文对于近岸浅海区的水深反演工作具有一定的参考价值。 相似文献
16.
This work presents a simple and relatively quick methodology to obtain the nearshore wave angle. The method is especially valuable for curvilinear coasts where Snell’s law may provide excessively inaccurate results. We defined a correction factor, K, that depends on the geometry of the coast and on the wave climate. The values of this coefficient were obtained minimizing the differences with a sophisticated numerical model. The limitations and performance of the methodology are further discussed. The procedure was applied to a beach in Southern Spain to analyze the influence of shoreline geometry on nearshore wave directionality. Offshore and nearshore distributions of wave period and directions were analyzed, and the results showed that the geometry of the coast played a crucial role in the directionality of the nearshore waves, which also plays an important role in hydrodynamics. The methodology presented here is able to analyze and quantify the importance of this directionality without a noticeable computational cost, even when a long time series of wave data are considered. Hence, this methodology constitutes a useful and efficient tool for practical applications in Coastal and Ocean Engineering, such as sedimentary, wave energy, and wave climate studies. 相似文献
17.
由于沿海区域的限制以及愈加严重的环境污染,渔业养殖正从近海走向深远海。深远海海域的海况更加恶劣,给养殖装备的设计与性能评估带来新的挑战。为解决该问题,对极端波浪与养殖装备网衣结构的相互作用开展研究。基于waves2Foam建立数值波浪水池,极端波浪模拟采用基于NewWave理论的聚焦波模型,网衣结构模拟采用多孔介质模型,并通过与Morison模型计算的网衣受力等效分析,获得多孔介质模拟网衣结构阻力系数的直接估计方法。然后将多孔介质模型嵌入waves2Foam中,开展聚焦波与网衣结构相互作用的数值模拟,同时开展水槽试验,验证数值模拟的准确性。基于数值模拟结果,系统地分析了不同网衣密实度及不同波浪参数下网衣结构的升阻力特性以及网衣结构对波浪场的扰动规律。研究表明：聚焦波波峰幅值和网衣密实度对网衣结构的升阻力影响较大,且升力峰值出现在阻力为0的时刻;网衣结构对聚焦波的时空演化特性有影响,改变了聚焦波波形。 相似文献
18.
Arata Kaneko 《Coastal Engineering》1983,7(3):271-284
The unsteady shallow-water vorticity equation dominating nearshore flow on a gently sloping plane beach has been solved by using the implicit finite difference technique under the assumption of constant viscosity over the flow field. The result of computation showed that pairs of nearshore circulation cells are generated through the nonlinear effect of flow in the boundary layer formed by the run-up movement of a standing edge wave along a shoreline and the paired cell has the spacing of half a wavelength of the edge wave. When the leaky-mode standing wave of Lamb with the same wave period as the edge wave and the wave crest parallel to a shoreline was superposed on the edge wave field, the alongshore spacing of circulation cell doubled and seaward flow in the cell concentrated in the narrow zone like a ‘rip current’. Although no effect of breaking waves is considered in the computation, such a mechanism may also generate some kinds of nearshore circulation systems observed in a sea. 相似文献
19.
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20.
福建沿海海域波浪能资源分析与评价 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
采用波浪模拟的方法,较准确计算得出福建沿海海域波浪能资源分布状况,并给出相应的分析和综合评价.主要结论如下:(1)福建沿海海域波浪能平均密度为2.6～7.3 kW/m,波浪能资源储量为2 210.45 MW,在我国沿海海域仅次于台湾和广东,是波浪能开发利用可以优先考虑的海区之一.(2)福建沿海海域波浪能资源储量的70%分布于平潭岛以北海域,其值达1 512.49 MW.其中,尤以北礵地区值最大,为378.80 MW.(3)以年平均波高为指标,福建沿海海域中东山区段为三类区,其他区段均为一类区和二类区,具有良好的开发前景.(4)福建沿海海域波浪能具有波功率密度低、资源分布广泛且不均匀、波功率密度随季节变化、能量具有多向性等分布特点.(5)基于福建波浪能的开发与利用现状,建议应优先着眼于解决边远海岛等特殊场所的用电问题. 相似文献