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1.
Cross-shore sediment transport rate exposed to waves is very important for coastal morphology,the design of marine structures such as seawalls,jetties,breakwaters etc,and the prevention of coastal erosion and accretion due to on-off shore sediment transportation.In the present study,the experiments on cross-shore sediment transport are carried out in a laboratory wave channel with initial beach slopes of 1/8,1/10 and 1/15.By using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepnesses generated by a pedal-type wave generator,the geometrical characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and the parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials with medium diameters of d50=0.25,0.32,0.45,0.62 and 0.80 mm.The offshore bar geometric characteristics are the horizontal distances from the shoreline to the bar beginning(Xb),crest(Xt),and ending(Xs) points,the depth from the bar crest to the still water level(ht),and the bar volume(Vbar).The experimental results have indicated that when the deep-water steepness(H0/L0) increased,the net movement to seaside increased.With the increasing wave steepness,the bars moved to widen herewith the vertical distances from still water level to the bar beginning(Xb),crest(Xt) and ending(Xs) points and the horizontal distances from the coast line to the bar beginning,crest and ending points increased.It was also shown from experimental results that the horizontal distances from the bar beginning and ending points to the coast line increased with the decrease of the beach slope.The experimental results obtained from this study are compared with previous experimental work and found to be of the same magnitude as the experimental measurements and followed the expected basic trend.  相似文献   

2.
The beach profile and sediment transport are very important factors in the design of coastal structures, and the beach profile is mainly affected by a number of parameters, such as wave height and period, beach slope, and the material properties of the bed. In this study, considering wave height (H0=6.5, 11.5, 16, 20, 23, 26 and 30 cm), wave period (T=1.46 and 2.03 s), beach slope (m=1/10 and 1/15) and mean sediment diameter (d50=0.18, 0.26, 0.33 and 0.40 mm), an experimental investigation of coastal erosion profile (storm profile) was carried out in a wave flume using regular waves, and geometric characteristics of erosion profile were determined by the resultant erosion profile. Dimensional and non-dimensional equations were obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and were compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equations with respect to the previously developed equations.  相似文献   

3.
In the upper Chesapeake Bay (Maryland, U.S.A.) field surveys were conducted at 18 multiple longshore sand bar sites. The multiple bar systems were found in water depths less than approximately 2 m (mean sea level), and exhibited mild bottom slopes of 0·0052 or less. The number of bars composing each system ranged from four to 17 and the spacing between the crests typically increased in the offshore direction, ranging from 12 to 70 m. Bar height also typically increased with distance offshore and ranged from 0·03 to 0·61 m. A grain size analysis of crest and trough sediment did not reveal any significant differences and the sediment was categorized as ‘fine sand’. A review of the literature data indicated that the Chesapeake Bay multiple bars possessed similar characteristics to those found in Gelding Bay (Baltic Sea); similarities in fetch, wave height and tidal range between the two bays may account for this finding. The surf-scaling parameter indicated that the multiple bar systems were extremely dissipative with regard to wave energy, and wave height appeared to be an important factor in controlling bar spacing and bar height. A multiple wave break point hypothesis was discussed as a possible mechanism for the formation of Chesapeake Bay multiple longshore bars, and limited observational evidence appeared to support such a mechanism.  相似文献   

4.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(7):589-611
The results of a series of 2DH numerical and 3D scaled physical modelling tests indicate that processes governing shoreline response to submerged structures, such as artificial surfing reefs, are different from those associated with emergent offshore breakwaters. Unlike the case of emergent offshore breakwaters, where shoreline accretion (salient development) is expected under all structural/environmental conditions, the principal mode of shoreline response to submerged structures can vary between erosive and accretive, depending on the offshore distance to the structure. The predominant wave incidence angle and structure crest level also have important implications on the magnitude of shoreline response, but not on the mode of shoreline response (i.e. erosion vs. accretion). Based on the results obtained here, a predictive empirical relationship is proposed as a preliminary engineering tool to assess shoreline response to submerged structures.  相似文献   

5.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(2):119-137
The autonomous nearshore bar behaviour along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands, is characterised by the presence of net seaward cyclic migrating sand bars generated near the shoreline. In 1993, a perturbation of the cyclic bar system was introduced by the implementation of a 2 Mm3 shoreface nourishment supplied to the nearshore bar zone, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. The morphodynamic response of the nearshore bars to the nourishment perturbation is investigated using a bathymetric data set with an alongshore extent of 12 km and sampled for 10 years. Bar behaviour is quantified in terms of bar crest position in relation to morphometric parameters such as bar depth, height, width and volume. Along with a pronounced development of a three-dimensional bar system unseen in the autonomous behaviour, the nearshore bars exhibited a 6–7 year arrest in their migrational behaviour during which bar morphology remained stable at immediate pre-nourishment morphometric values. At the subsequent onset of bar movement, bars resumed their migration at a rate predicted by autonomous behaviour in parallel development with morphometric parameters along their predicted trends. It is shown that the observed onshore transport of nourished sediment in the 6–7 year arrest results from a gradual deepening of troughs. Cross-shore sediment transport modelling is used to assess the effect of the nourishment on yearly averaged onshore (short-wave nonlinearity) and offshore (undertow) sediment transport rates. The gradual reappearance of the pre-nourishment bar-trough morphology is shown to engender a normalisation in the cross-shore distribution of sediment transport rates to pre-nourishment rates.  相似文献   

6.
Sixty-one Global Positioning System (GPS), sub-aerial beach surveys were completed at 7 km long Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA (USA), between April 2004 and March 2009. The five-year time series contains over 1 million beach elevation measurements and documents detailed changes in beach morphology over a variety of spatial, temporal, and physical forcing scales. Results show that seasonal processes dominate at Ocean Beach, with the seasonal increase and decrease in wave height being the primary driver of shoreline change. Storm events, while capable of causing large short-term changes in the shoreline, did not singularly account for a large percentage of the overall observed change. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis shows that the first two modes account for approximately three-quarters of the variance in the data set and are represented by the seasonal onshore/offshore movement of sediment (60%) and the multi-year trend of shoreline rotation (14%). The longer-term trend of shoreline rotation appears to be related to larger-scale bathymetric change. An EOF-based decomposition technique is developed that is capable of estimating the shoreline position to within one standard deviation of the range of shoreline positions observed at most locations along the beach. The foundation of the model is the observed relationship between the temporal amplitudes of the first EOF mode and seasonally-averaged offshore wave height as well as the linear trend of shoreline rotation. This technique, while not truly predictive because of the requirement of real-time wave data, is useful because it can predict shoreline position to within reasonable confidence given the absence of field data once the model is developed at a particular site.  相似文献   

7.
This contribution describes the development, calibration and verification of a 1-D behaviour-orientated shoreline prediction model. The model primarily encapsulates shoreline displacement forced by wave-driven cross-shore sediment transport. Hysteresis effects are shown to be important and are included in the model, whereby present shoreline change is influenced by past hydro-/morpho-dynamic conditions. The potential magnitude of shoreline change increases with incident wave power and the degree of disequilibrium. The latter disequilibrium term (Ωeq − Ω) is expressed in terms of the time-evolving equilibrium (Ωeq) and instantaneous (Ω) dimensionless fall velocities and dictates the direction of shoreline movement. Following Wright et al. (1985) the equilibrium fall velocity is defined as a function of the weighted antecedent conditions and is a proxy for the evolving beach state. The decay rate of the weighting function used to compute Ωeq is a model free parameter determined by calibration against measured data, which physically reflects the degree of observed ‘memory’ of the system. The decay in amplitude of this weighting function with time is controlled by a ‘memory decay’ term (ϕ), where the weighting reaches 10%, 1% and 0.1% at ϕ, 2ϕ and 3ϕ days prior to the current calculation time. The model is applied to two multi-year (6 + years) data sets incorporating hourly wave and weekly shoreline measurements, from two contrasting energetic sites in SE Australia. The first is the relatively dissipative, straight Gold Coast (QLD) and the second is a more intermediate embayed beach at Narrabeen (NSW). The model shows significant skill at hindcasting shoreline change at both sites, predicting approximately 60% of the total shoreline variability. The Gold Coast shoreline is dominated by a strong seasonal signal. Conversely, at the Narrabeen embayment, shoreline variability (and morphology) is more dynamic, responding at storm frequency. Evidence suggests that there is a strong coherence between the shoreline position and morphodynamic state and that both have response times characterised by ϕ. It is hypothesised that optimised ϕ values in the shoreline model physically relate to the efficiency of sediment exchanges between the shoreface and offshore bars and the prevalence of one- or two-dimensional horizontal circulation. The general success of this new shoreline model for hindcasting the observed shoreline behaviour at two distinctly different open-coast sites suggests that this approach may be suitable for broader application.  相似文献   

8.
The composition, density and community structure of the benthic macrofauna were investigated in sediments of the Campeche Canyon in the SW Gulf of Mexico. Total macrofaunal density ranged from 9466±2736 ind m−2 at the continental shelf station to 1550±195 ind m−2 in the canyon. Density values significantly diminished with distance from the coast and depth; only a few stations in the center of the canyon displayed larger density values (E-37 with 4666±1530 ind m−2, E-36 with 5791±642 ind m−2 and E-26 with 6925±2258 ind m−2). Densities were positively correlated to organic nitrogen in the sediment (r=0.82) and coarse silt (r=0.43), and negatively with depth (r=−0.74) and distance from the coast (r=−0.68). At all stations, the polychaete worms contributed most to the multi-species community structure. The nematodes and Foraminifera displayed their highest densities in the center of the canyon. The biomass values declined significantly with depth. We conclude that the macrofauna density and biomass changed in response to organic matter contents in the sediment, both with distance from the coast and with depth.  相似文献   

9.
Benthic foraminifera are established indicators for Water Quality (WQ) in Florida and the Caribbean. However, nearshore coral reefs of the Great Barrier Reef (GBR) and other Pacific regions are also subjected to increased nutrient and sediment loads. Here, we investigate the use of benthic foraminifera as indicators to assess status and trends of WQ on GBR reefs. We quantified several sediment parameters and the foraminiferan assemblage composition on 20 reefs in four geographic regions of the GBR, and along a water column nutrient and turbidity gradient. Twenty-seven easily recognisable benthic foraminiferan taxa (>63 μm) were distinguished. All four geographic regions differed significantly (p < 0.05, ANOSIM) in their assemblage composition, and a redundancy analysis (RDA) showed that sediment parameters only explained a small proportion of the variance in the assemblage composition. On nine reefs along a previously studied water quality gradient, foraminifera showed a distinct shift in assemblage composition towards larger symbiont-bearing taxa from turbid inner shelf towards clearer outer shelf reefs. A RDA separated symbiotic and aposymbiotic (heterotrophic) taxa. In addition, total suspended solid and water column chlorophyll a concentrations were negatively correlated, and optical depth and distance to the mainland were positively correlated, with the abundance of symbiont-bearing taxa. Several large foraminifera were identified as indicators for offshore, clear water conditions. In contrast, heterotrophic rotaliids and a species retaining plastids (Elphidium sp.) where highly characteristic for low light, higher nutrient conditions. Application of the FORAM index to GBR assemblage composition showed a significant increase in the value of this index with increased distance from the mainland in the Whitsunday region (r2 = 0.75, p < 0.001), and therefore with increasing light and decreased nutrient availability. We conclude that it will be possible to apply this index to GBR and possibly other Pacific reefs after some adaptations and additional experimental work on species-specific limiting factors.  相似文献   

10.
Measurements of sub-surface light attenuation (Kd), Secchi depth and suspended particulate material (SPM) were made at 382 locations in transitional, coastal and offshore waters around the United Kingdom (hereafter UK) between August 2004 and December 2005. Data were analysed statistically in relation to a marine water typology characterised by differences in tidal range, mixing and salinity. There was a strong statistically significant linear relationship between SPM and Kd for the full data set. We show that slightly better results are obtained by fitting separate models to data from transitional waters and coastal and offshore waters combined. These linear models were used to predict Kd from SPM. Using a statistic (D) to quantify the error of prediction of Kd from SPM, we found an overall prediction error rate of 23.1%. Statistically significant linear relationships were also evident between the log of Secchi depth and the log of Kd in waters around the UK. Again, statistically significant improvements were obtained by fitting separate models to estuarine and combined coastal/offshore data – however, the prediction error was improved only marginally, from 31.6% to 29.7%. Prediction was poor in transitional waters (D = 39.5%) but relatively good in coastal/offshore waters (D = 26.9%).SPM data were extracted from long term monitoring data sites held by the UK Environment Agency. The appropriate linear models (estuarine or combined coastal/offshore) were applied to the SPM data to obtain representative Kd values from estuarine, coastal and offshore sites. Estuarine waters typically had higher concentrations of SPM (8.2–73.8 mg l−1) compared to coastal waters (3.0–24.1 mg l−1) and offshore waters (9.3 mg l−1). The higher SPM values in estuarine waters corresponded to higher values of Kd (0.8–5.6 m−1). Water types that were identified by large tidal ranges and exposure typically had the highest Kd ranges in both estuarine and coastal waters. In terms of susceptibility to eutrophication, large macrotidal, well mixed estuarine waters, such as the Thames embayment and the Humber estuary were identified at least risk from eutrophic conditions due to light-limiting conditions of the water type.  相似文献   

11.
《Coastal Engineering》2002,45(1):19-32
The remote sensing of the sea surface is commonly regarded as a logistically simple and cost-effective way of obtaining long-term (>years) time series of nearshore sandbar location. In this paper, we demonstrate that, similar to video imagery, time-exposure X-band (∼3 cm wave length) radar images contain alongshore, breaking-related high-intensity bands that can be used to compute the location of the underlying sandbar crests. Analysis of time-exposure X-band images and bathymetric surveys collected at Egmond aan Zee, Netherlands shows that the radar-based bar crest location, defined as the cross-shore location of maximum radar intensity, differs from the in situ surveyed crest location by a distance of O(10 m). This difference, Δx̄radar, depends linearly on the offshore water level, consistent with model predictions in which the radar intensity is assumed to behave as the energy of the surface roller. The model additionally suggests a dependence of Δx̄radar on the offshore wave height when the wave field across the bar is non-saturated. In general, such wave conditions did not result in radar images with sufficient contrast to determine the bar crest location and, accordingly, the wave-height dependence was not observed clearly in the field. Because of the dependence of Δx̄radar on the offshore water level, time series of radar-based bar crest location show artificial variability when the images are collected at different water levels. Various techniques for correcting this variability are discussed.  相似文献   

12.
Understanding sediment movement in coastal areas is crucial in planning the stability of coastal structures, the recovery of coastal areas, and the formation of new coast. Accretion or erosion profiles form as a result of sediment movement. The characteristics of these profiles depend on the bed slope, wave conditions, and sediment properties. Here, experimental studies were performed in a wave flume with regular waves, considering different values for the wave height (H0), wave period (T), bed slope (m), and mean sediment diameter (d50). Accretion profiles developed in these experiments, and the geometric parameters of the resulting berms were determined. Teaching–learning-based optimization (TLBO) and artificial bee colony (ABC) algorithms were applied to regression functions of the data from the physical model. Dimensional and dimensionless equations were found for each parameter. These equations were compared to data from the physical model, to determine the best equation for each parameter and to evaluate the performances of the TLBO and ABC algorithms in the estimation of the berm parameters. Compared to the ABC algorithm, the TLBO algorithm provided better accuracy in estimating the berm parameters. Overall, the equations successfully determined the berm parameters.  相似文献   

13.
The recognized ecological importance of Posidonia oceanica, the most important seagrass of the Mediterranean Sea, makes it crucial to assess the state of health of its meadows, discriminating natural from anthropogenic impacts. In this paper, the hydrodynamic conditions at the upper limit of P. oceanica meadows along the Ligurian coast (NW Mediterranean Sea) were investigated. A relationship between the distance of the upper limit of the meadow from the shoreline and the morphodynamic domain of the beach (i.e. distinctive types of beach produced by the topography, wave climate and sediment composition) was found. A zonation of the state of the shallow portions of the meadows down the submerged beach profile was identified. Zone a, from the shoreline to the breaking limit, is naturally critical for the development of the meadow. Zone b, from the breaking limit to the closure depth, is subjected to natural and human impacts. Zone c, below the closure depth, is little influenced by coastal dynamics. This study quantifies for the first time how much the status of the shallow portions of P. oceanica meadows is dependent on coastal dynamics, which is important for their proper management.  相似文献   

14.
Nitrification, fuelled by ammonium is the pivotal oxidative pathway to nitrogen cycling. In spite of its ecological significance, the factors regulating nitrification rates in the benthic realm remain poorly understood. The present study therefore examines some of the factors like ammonium, nitrite, nitrate, organic carbon, iron and manganese on down-core variability in benthic nitrification rates in two different mangrove ecosystems, one under the influence of ferromanganese ore mining (experiment) and the other relatively undisturbed (control). We hypothesize that besides organic carbon, iron could also influence the rate of nitrification. The study also contrasts the distributive pattern of autotrophic and heterotrophic nitrifiers in the two regions. The concentration of iron at the control site ranged from 1.1% to 15.1% while at the experimental site it ranged from 2.9% to 46%. The levels of organic carbon at control and experimental sites ranged from 0.02% to 6.9% and 0.1% to 6.5%, respectively. The nitrification rates at the control and experimental sites are comparable and ranged from 3.2 ± 1.2 to 18.4 ± 1.9 ng at-N g(sediment)−1 h−1 and 2.7 ± 1.5 to 18.2 ± 0.6 ng at-N g(sediment)−1 h−1, respectively. While the abundance of heterotrophic nitrifiers at both the sites ranged from 102–3 cells g−1 sediment, the autotrophic nitrifiers at the experimental site was higher by an order at 103 cells g−1 sediment reflecting the relatively higher refractile nature of organic carbon at the experimental site (Straus and Lamberti, 2000). Though organic carbon and nitrification rates are similar in both the sites, the underlying mechanisms governing the processes could be different. Our studies suggest that at the control site, heterotrophic nitrifiers govern nitrification rates (r = 0.28, p < 0.05, n = 64) using organic carbon (r = 0.32, p < 0.01, n = 64). At the experimental site, nitrification was governed more by autotrophic nitrifiers (r = 0.43, p < 0.001, n = 64) at the expense of iron (r = 0.47, p < 0.001, n = 64). Therefore at the experimental site with higher load of iron, autotrophic nitrification could be more important. It is therefore inferred that both the quality of organic carbon and quantity of iron govern nitrification rates in these mangrove swamps.  相似文献   

15.
As a fully developed (Airy) wave propagates from deep into shallow water, its crest becomes more peaked while the trough flattens out. The median crest diameter MCD, defined as the distance between the wave flanks under the crest at a level halfway between the crest and trough, therefore decreases relative to the similarly defined median trough diameter MTD, which remains constant up to the breaking point. The MCD is directly related to other wave characteristics, which enables water particle velocities to be calculated for any water depth without having to recur to more complex, higher-order Stokes, cnoidal or Fenton theories. Over a nearly horizontal bottom, most fully developed wave characteristics can be expressed as functions of the wave period Tw. It is shown that the horizontal particle velocity at the bottom under the breaker crest is at least 9 times faster than under the breaker trough, which explains why sediment is transported landward under fair weather conditions. The proposed equations also shed new light on the formation of spilling, plunging and surging/collapsing breakers.  相似文献   

16.
The input of groundwater-borne nutrients to Adelaide's (South Australia) coastal zone is not well known but could contribute to the ongoing decline of seagrass in the area. As a component of the Adelaide Coastal Waters Study (ACWS), the potential for using the radium quartet (223Ra, 224Ra, 226Ra and 228Ra) and 222Rn to evaluate submarine groundwater discharge (SGD) was evaluated. Potential isotopic signatures for SGD were assessed by sampling groundwater from three regional aquifers potentially contributing SGD to the ACWS area. In addition, intertidal groundwater was sampled at two sand beach sites. In general, the regional groundwaters were enriched in long-lived Ra isotopes (226Ra and 228Ra) and in 222Rn relative to intertidal groundwater. Radium activity (but not 222Rn activity) was positively correlated to salinity in groundwater from one of the regional aquifers and in intertidal groundwater. Radium isotope ratios (223Ra/226Ra, 224Ra/226Ra and 228Ra/226Ra) were less variable than individual Ra isotope activities within potential SGD sources. Recirculated seawater (estimated from the intertidal groundwater samples with seawater-like salinities) also had distinctly higher Ra isotope ratios than the regional groundwaters. The activities for all radioisotopes were relatively low in seawater. The activity of the short-lived 223Ra and 224Ra were highest at the shoreline and declined exponentially with distance offshore. In contrast, 228Ra and 226Ra activities had a weak linear declining trend with distance offshore. Rn-222 activity was at or near background in all seawater samples. The pattern of enrichment in short-lived Ra isotopes and the lack of 222Rn in seawater suggest that seawater recirculation is the main contributor to SGD in the ACWS area. Preliminary modeling of the offshore flux of 228Ra and 226Ra suggest that the SGD flux to the ACWS area ranges between 0.2 and 3 · 10− 3 m3 (m of shoreline)− 1 s− 1.  相似文献   

17.
Sedimentation rates were determined for the northern Gulf of Mexico margin sediments at water depths ranging from 770 to 3560 m, using radiocarbon determinations of organic matter. Resulting sedimentation rates ranged from 3 to 15 cm/kyr, decreasing with increasing water depth. These rates agree with long-term sedimentation rates estimated previously using stratigraphic methods, and with estimates of sediment delivery rates by the Mississippi River to the northern Gulf of Mexico, but are generally higher by 1–2 orders of magnitude than those estimated by 210Pbxs methods. Near-surface slope sediments from 2737 m water depth in the Mississippi River fan were much older than the rest. They had minimum 14C ages of 16–27 kyr and δ13C values ranging from −24‰ to −26.5‰, indicating a terrestrial origin of organic matter. The sediments from this site were thus likely deposited by episodic mass wasting of slope sediment through the canyon, delineating the previously suggested main pathway of sediment and clay movement to abyssal Gulf sediments.  相似文献   

18.
Studies of shoreline progradation along low-energy vegetated shorelines have been limited, as these environments are generally experiencing erosion rather than deposition, with extreme erosion rates frequently found. This study examined yearly changes along a vegetated shoreline at Calaveras Point Marsh, South San Francisco Bay, California, using aerial photography, to determine the roles of climatic, watershed, and coastal process in driving shoreline changes. In addition, sediment accumulation was monitored on a yearly basis at 48 locations across the marsh to determine the role of geomorphic factors in promoting accumulation. Calaveras Point Marsh was found to have expanded from 49.26 ± 5.2 to 165.7 ± 4.7 ha between 1975 and 2005. Although the rate of marsh expansion was not positively correlated with yearly variability in precipitation, local streamflow, delta outflow, water level observations, population growth, or ENSO indices, marsh growth was greater during years of higher than average temperatures. Warmer temperatures may have promoted the recruitment and growth of Spartina foliosa, a C4 grass known to be highly responsive to temperature. Other factors, such as the formation of a coastal barrier, a recent change in the location of the mouth of the Guadalupe River, and channel readjustment in response to diking are credited with driving the bulk of the marsh expansion. Sediment accumulation was found to be high closest to channels and to the shoreline, at low elevations and in recently vegetated marsh. Globally, the pace of sea level rise exerts the primary control on wetland development and persistence. However, at local geographic scales, factors such as tectonic events, modifications to natural sediment transport pathways or land use changes may overwhelm the effects of regional sea level rise, and allow for wetlands to develop, expand and persist despite rapid sea level rise.  相似文献   

19.
Resuspension, transport, and deposition of sediments over the continental shelf and slope are complex processes and there is still a need to understand the underlying spatial and temporal dynamical scales. As a step towards this goal, a two-dimensional slice model (zero gradients in the alongshore direction) based on the primitive flow equations and a range of sediment classes has been developed. The circulation is forced from rest by upwelling or downwelling winds, which are spatially uniform. Results are presented for a range of wind speeds and sediment settling speeds. Upwelling flows carry fine sediments (low settling speeds) far offshore within the surface Ekman layer, and significant deposition eventually occurs beyond the shelf break. However, coarser sediments quickly settle out of the deeper onshore component of the circulation, which can lead to accumulation of bottom sediments within the coastal zone. Downwelling flows are more effective at transporting coarse sediments off the shelf. However, strong vertical mixing at the shelf break ensures that some material is also carried into the surface Ekman layer and returned onshore. The concentrations and settling fluxes of coarse sediments decrease offshore and increase with depth under both upwelling and downwelling conditions, consistent with trends observed in sediment trap data. However, finer sediments decrease with depth (upwelling) or reach a maximum around the depth of the shelf break (downwelling). It is shown that under uniform wind conditions, suspended sediment concentrations and settling fluxes decay offshore over a length scale of order τs/ρf|ws|, where τs is the wind stress, ρ the water density, f the Coriolis parameter, and ws is the sediment settling velocity. This scaling applies to both upwelling and downwelling conditions, provided offshore transport is dominated by wind-driven advection, rather than horizontal diffusion.  相似文献   

20.
Variations in the nutrient concentrations were studied during two cruises to the Arabian Sea. The situation towards the end of the southwest monsoon season (September/October 1994) was compared with the inter-monsoonal season during November and December 1994. Underway surface transects showed the influence of an upwelling system during the first cruise with deep, colder, nutrient-rich water being advected into the surface mixed layer. During the southwesterly monsoon there was an area of coastal Ekman upwelling, bringing colder water (24.2°C) into the surface waters of the coastal margin. Further offshore at about 350 km there was an area of Ekman upwelling, as a result of wind-stress curl, north of the Findlater Jet axis; this area also had cooler surface water (24.6°C). Further offshore (>1000 km) the average surface temperatures increased to >27°C. These waters were oligotrophic with no evidence of the upwelling effects observed further inshore. In the upwelling regions nutrient concentrations in the close inshore coastal zone were elevated (NO3=18 μmol l-1, PO4=1.48 μmol l-1); higher concentrations also were measured at the region of offshore upwelling off the shelf, with a maximum nitrate concentration of 12.5 μmol l-1 and a maximum phosphate concentration of 1.2 μmol l-1. Nitrate and phosphate concentrations decreased with increasing distance offshore to the oligotrophic waters beyond 1400 km, where typical nitrate concentrations were 35.0 nmol l-1 (0.035 μmol l-1) in the surface mixed layer. A CTD section from the coastal shelf, to 1650 km offshore to the oligotrophic waters, clearly showed that during the monsoon season, upwelling is one of the major influences upon the nutrient concentrations in the surface waters of the Arabian Sea off the coast of Oman. Productivity of the water column was enhanced to a distance of over 800 km offshore. During the intermonsoon period a stable surface mixed layer was established, with a well-defined thermocline and nitracline. Surface temperature was between 26.8 and 27.4°C for the entire transect from the coast to 1650 km offshore. Nitrate concentrations were typically between 2.0 and 0.4 μmol l-1 for the transect, to about 1200 km where the waters became oligotrophic, and nitrate concentrations were then typically 8–12 nmol l-1. Ammonia concentrations for the oligotrophic waters were typically 130 nmol l-1, and are reported for the first time in the Indian Ocean. The nitrogen/phosphorus (N/P) ratios suggest that phytoplankton production was potentially nitrogen-limited in all the surface waters of the Arabian Sea, with the greatest nitrogen limitation during the intermonsoon period.  相似文献   

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