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1.
台湾浅滩大型沙波、潮流结构和推移质输运特征   总被引:12,自引:5,他引:7       下载免费PDF全文
杜晓琴  李炎  高抒 《海洋学报》2008,30(5):124-136
对2006年8月所获台湾浅滩的底质、水深、多层位流速、流向以及CTD观测数据进行了分析,探讨了台湾浅滩大型沙波区水流的时空分布特征、沉积物输运过程及影响因素,结果表明,台湾浅滩动力作用较强,底质为粗砂,其上发育的沙波波长为325~822 m,波高为14.4~20.3 m,较接近由前人总结的沙波波高、波长的关系式计算出的波高和波长。沙波波峰、波谷、迎水面和背水面流速以12.5 h为周期沿顺时针方向旋转;底部最大流速出现在半日潮周期的同一时段,对应的方向均为偏南方向,且沙波迎水面的流速大于背水面的。在两个半日潮过程中研究区域的沉积物输入量大于输出量,处于淤积状态。在潮流作用下沉积物输运量较少,沙波脊线移动较小,而台湾浅滩有较大规模的沙波运动,故认为改造沙波的主要作用力应该是风暴流。在观测的断面中涨潮推移质输运量大于落潮的,且第一个半日潮涨落潮的输运能力均较第二个半日潮的大,这可能与潮流的流速-时间不对称特征及潮能变化形式有关。  相似文献   

2.
青岛汇泉湾海滩剖面变化特征   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1       下载免费PDF全文
在海滩地形测量的基础上,分析了汇泉湾前滨海滩剖面沙坝、沟槽的短时间尺度变化特征。研究结果表明,2005年3~11月.海滩剖面沙坝顶沟槽底相对高度均变小,沙坝顶部宽度出现不同程度的变宽或变窄现象;在西北侧前滨海滩上,沟槽最底部淤高0.1-0.35m,沟槽轴线向陆移动距离较大,为17.5-3.5m,沙坝顶部淤高0~0.2m,沙坝顶部轴线向陆移动0~42.25m。而东南部前滨海滩上,大部分剖面沙坝顶被削平蚀低0.1-0.2m,沙坝项部轴线向海移动7~23.75m。在海滩西北部和中部的前滨海滩上,2005年11月沟槽最底部轴线到高潮线的距离为44~58m,沙坝顶轴线到高潮线的距离为63.75-98.5m。  相似文献   

3.
根据1979,1996和2009年3个时期水深地形数据,利用GIS软件分析了岱山水道西部潮滩、水下岸坡和深槽区2个时段的冲淤变化。结果显示:1979-1996年的17 a间,研究区大部分区域冲淤幅度-般在±1 m以内,只有深槽局部区域冲刷大于2 m;1996-2009年的13 a间,潮滩区冲淤变化与1979-1996年间类似,有±1 m冲淤变化,而水下岸坡和深槽区的冲刷幅度明显加大,水下岸坡平均冲刷幅度达2 m,深槽区平均冲刷幅度达3 m。据分析, 1996年以后,水下岸坡和深槽区冲刷幅度明显加大的主要原因有两个:-是岱山水道水流流速较快,粘土质的底质容易遭受冲刷;另-个是在潮滩区至水下岸坡间建设了码头和栈桥,浅水区水流部分受阻,导致深水区域流速加大,从而加剧了水下岸坡和深槽区域的冲刷幅度。  相似文献   

4.
南海北部水深80—250m的外大陆架和上大陆坡海底,有大片沙波地貌分布,它们主要是晚更新世末次冰期低海面时遗留下来的滨海沙波、沿岸沙丘、沙堤和沙垄,属残留沙体地貌。它们明显沿着本次冰期时形成的最低海岸线两侧分布,但在现代海底底流作用下,其两翼及沙波谷部发育有次一级的小型沙波或沙纹,它们的形态细小、排列紧密,与残留沙体地貌组成复式海底沙波。这就是流动沙波,是不稳定的地质因素,对海底工程有一定危害,但根据外大陆架实测底流数据,运用计算机数学模型方法计算,表明在细沙和中细沙大面积覆盖区,海底沙波每年均以0.166—0.534m的速度向深海方向迁移,移动速度相当缓慢,其对海底工程设施不会造成直接危害。  相似文献   

5.
珠江口黄茅海拦门沙演变及成因分析   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0  
贾良文  罗军  任杰 《海洋学报》2012,34(5):120-127
采用1977,1994,2003,2010年4个年份的地形图,建立了DEM模型,结合二维水动力模型对近30多年来黄茅海拦门沙演变的特征及成因进行了分析。研究表明近30多年来黄茅海拦门沙平面上向海推移,范围缩小,在内坡和拦门沙顶冲刷,在外坡淤积;拦门沙的基本成因是其位于上溯流与下泄流控制区域之间的过渡带,该过渡带为明显的动力较弱的区域,泥沙较易在此处沉积;黄茅海大面积的围垦导致纳潮量减少、潮汐动力减弱、径流作用相对增强,使下泄流控制区扩大、上溯流控制区减小、过渡区下移,这是拦门沙冲刷外移和缩小的主要原因。上游来沙量减少加剧了拦门沙冲刷外移和缩小。  相似文献   

6.
1 IntroductionIn coastal areas a ubiquitous phenomenon is theformation of ripples in the seabed. It is now widelyaccepted that the flow and sediment transport overseabed are vital in relation to erosion, surface wavedissipation and pollution dispersion et…  相似文献   

7.
胶州湾湾口海底沙波地形地貌特征及其活动性研究   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
利用多波束、侧扫声纳以及单道地震资料对胶州湾湾口潮流作用下形成的典型海底沙波地貌的平面形态、剖面特征和分布特点进行了分析研究。根据实测的水文资料计算了不同潮流流速下沙波的瞬时移动速度,推测了直脊型沙波和新月型沙波的形成]化过程:区内新月型沙波在西向优势流的作用下大约以50m/a的速度向西迁移,直脊型沙波则在两端方向不一致的优势流长期作用下,发生逆时针旋转,同时在往复流的作用下以一个平衡位置左右摆动;就地貌形态而言,新月型沙波是不稳定的,直脊型沙波达到相对平衡状态。  相似文献   

8.
胶州湾口海底沙波的类型、特征及发育影响因素   总被引:3,自引:1,他引:3  
采用多波束资料对胶州湾口的海底沙波类型、特征进行了研究,发现研究区主要有线性沙波(二维)、沙丘(三维)2种沙波类型。结合水流流速、海底构造和表层沉积物综合分析发现:海底沙波缓坡朝向与优势流向不完全一致,为强流作用的产物,在涨、落潮作用下均可形成;沉积物的多寡是研究区海底沙波类型分布的决定因素,海底松散沉积物较为丰富的地区形成二维沙波。在水动力强大的胶州湾口,沉积物多分布在构造低洼地带,使二维线性沙波的分布与海底断裂延伸方向一致。  相似文献   

9.
A method of presentation, in which seabed profiles are scale-corrected and replotted in three-dimensional form, has been developed to aid the study of complex areas of the seabed. For sandwave research the continuity of crests can be studied, and the positional relationship of individual features compared. By plotting successive surveys of the same area, changes can be detected and significant movement measured.In the sandwave field at Long Sand Head, Thames Estuary, the sandwaves can be grouped in morphological zones, depending upon their amplitude, wavelength and cross-sectional asymmetry. Despite marked asymmetry, which suggests opposing directions of movement in different zones, little progressive movement occurs, but rather a “flexing” of sinuous crest lines results in displacement of up to 25 m in a year.The study has been supported by side-scan sonar surveys, which emphasize the complexity of the sandwaves within the field and the presence of less stable dune bed forms (American Society of Civil Engineers, 1966), which often lie at considerable angles to the major crests, suggesting a secondary flow regime.  相似文献   

10.
Abstract

Lower Cook Inlet in Alaska has high‐ tidal currents that average 3–4 knots and normally reach a peak of 6–8 knots. The bottom has an average depth of about 60–70 m in the central part of the inlet that deepens toward the south. Several types of bedforms, such as sand waves, dunes, ripples, sand ribbons, and lag deposits form a microtopography on the otherwise smooth seafloor. Each bedform type covers a small field, normally a few hundred to a few thousand meters wide, and usually several kilometers long parallel to the tidal flow. High‐resolution seismic systems, side‐scan sonar and bottom television were used to study these bedforms. Large sand waves with wavelengths over 300 m and wave heights up to 10 m were observed. Fields of ebb‐oriented or flood‐oriented asymmetric bedforms commonly grade into more symmetric shapes. Several orders of smaller sand waves and dunes cover the flanks of the very large bedforms. The crest directions of both size groups are normally parallel, but deviations of up to 90° have been observed; local deviations may occur where smaller forms approach the crests of the larger sand waves. Bottom television observations demonstrated active bedload transport in a northerly direction on crests and midflanks of southward asymmetric large sand waves, but not in their troughs. Movement of bedload occurs in the form of small ripples. Although the asymmetry of the large bedforms suggests that migration has taken place in the ebb or flood directions, the very low surface angles (2.5°‐8°) of these bedforms do not indicate regular movements. The large bedforms are probably relict features, or they migrate only under severe conditions, whereas active sand transport by ripples and smaller sand waves and dunes moves bedload back and forth with the tides. An understanding of such movements is essential for determining design criteria for offshore installations and in benthic‐faunal studies.  相似文献   

11.
海南岛莺歌海近岸的潮汐不对称与潮致余流研究   总被引:3,自引:1,他引:2  
潮汐不对称与潮致余流在河口海岸区的物质输运中扮演着重要角色。已往的研究表明,在驻波占主导的河口海湾中,涨落潮的历时不对称与流速不对称有较为良好的对应关系。而潮致余流主要由地形与潮波的非线性作用所致。本研究以海南岛莺歌海附近为代表,结合实际观测与数值模型,研究复杂地形的开阔近岸区的潮汐不对称与潮致余流。结果表明,在莺歌海近岸区,涨落潮历时不对称皆表现为涨潮历时短于落潮历时,而流速不对称则出现复杂的空间变化。对流速不对称的机制分解表明,研究区的流速不对称主要由K1、O1与M2的相互作用,以及潮余流与各潮汐分潮的相互作用所控制。其中前者产生涨潮流速大于落潮流速的涨潮优势,而后者则与余流的方向相对应,出现多个涨潮优势与落潮优势的区域。总体而言,研究区的流速不对称由余流与各潮汐分潮的相互作用所决定。这表明,采用涨落潮历时的不对称来确定潮汐不对称的方法在开阔近海区可能并不适用。对潮致余流的研究表明,研究区的欧拉余流远大于斯托克斯余流。欧拉余流表现为多个顺时针与逆时针的涡流。涡流分布与地形具有较好的对应关系,潮流沙脊区多发育顺时针涡流,而深槽区则以发育逆时针涡流为主。摩擦力在涡流的发育中起着重要作用。  相似文献   

12.
—The intertidal flats are classified as"attached bar"."spit"and"isolated bar"in relation to theland.and"broad flat","sharp bank"and"eroded cliff"according to the shape of the cross-shore profile.Tidal currents on the flat are basically back and forth along the river channel banks but gyratory on theseaward side of the Chongming Island.The flow velocity on the intertidal flat is gradually reduced with in-creasing elevation.The river discharge strengthens ebb flows and modifies current asymmetry especiallyon the lower flat in neap tide.although hydrodynamics over the tidal flat is tide-dominated.The waveheight on the tidal flat is normally limited to a few decimeters although it changes with water depth.slopeand wind.Suspended sediment concentration over the tidal flat is typically hundreds to thousands ofmg/l.Although the delta has grown rapidly in history.the rate of growth is different in different periods.A maximum advancing rate of 330m/a was recently found in the central part of the river mouth towa  相似文献   

13.
In this contribution, the morphodynamics of open-sea tidal channels eroded into sandy seabed in regions of flow constriction is simulated by a one-dimensional model using the Bagnold formula for bedload transport rate, and accounting for the effect of bed slope. The results show that equilibrium conditions for such channels can be reached over a period of 102–103 years. Sediment eroded from the channel floor is transported in the direction of the dominant current, and deposited beyond the regions of flow constriction where the current looses competence due to spreading. In this way, the material remobilized from older strata in the channels is deposited in younger sand banks near the channel heads. Where several successive channels are incised along the current axis, they interact in their morphological evolution. The morphodynamic equilibrium of a tidal channel is reached once the combined interacting sedimentological and hydrodynamic factors, such as sediment particle diameter, tidal current velocity and flood/ebb dominance, are balanced. The model output shows that the equilibrium shape of the tidal channels appears to be related mainly to flow field characteristics and, to a lesser extent, to particle size. A positive correlation exists between the depth of the channels and their response times. The equilibrium water depths of the channels are more sensitive to current speed than to either particle size or the time–velocity asymmetry of the flow field. The response times for overall morphological equilibrium are sensitive to all of the above-mentioned parameters. In particular, sediment characteristics associated with critical current velocities have far-reaching effects on the morphodynamic behaviour of tidal channels.  相似文献   

14.
High-resolution swath bathymetry measurements at centimetre-scale precision conducted during a tidal cycle in the Grådyb tidal inlet channel in the Danish Wadden Sea reveal the short-term dynamics of a large, ebb-directed compound dune with superimposed small to medium dunes, all composed of medium sand. Dune dynamics were related to simultaneous measurements of flow using an acoustic Doppler current profiler. Spatially, dune crests displayed greater mobility than did dune troughs, due to higher flow velocities at the crests than in the troughs. Temporally, superimposed lower lee-side dunes migrated more during the flood than the ebb tide, due to higher near-bed trough flow velocities during the flood phase, resulting in varying exposure to flow. Net dune migration was flood-directed over the tidal cycle, despite annual net migration being ebb-directed. Hence, extrapolation of short-term migration rates is not possible in this case. The superimposed dunes reversed direction during each half tidal cycle whereas the compound dune only developed a flood cap during flood tide, i.e. the time required for complete reversal of the compound dune was much longer than that available in a half tidal cycle. Over the tidal cycle, the bed level was stable but significant erosion and accretion occurred during the tidal phases. During the ebb tide, bed material was brought into suspension with accelerating flow and settled with decelerating flow, resulting in an average erosion and accretion of the bed of ~7 cm in each case. During the flood tide, the bed of the compound dune was overall stable, although bed material was eroded from the exposed lower lee side, being partly transported to the crest in bedload and partly brought into suspension. In general, dune height fluctuated during the tidal cycle whereas dune length remained stable. The height of the compound dune responded to changes in water depth, which acts as a limiting factor to dune growth. By contrast, the height of the stoss-side dunes responded to flow velocity, i.e. the stoss-side dunes were water depth-independent.  相似文献   

15.
Summary

Reids Rise is a remnant of a marine sand body that accumulated in the inner neritic zone of the continental shelf south‐west of Westport during the Last Interglacial. The sand body is notable for its spectacular sedimentary structures and consists of an upper unit that is characterised by trough cross‐lamination, locally forming mesoscopic ridges, and a lower unit that is characterised by horizontal lamination. The sand body is underlain by gravels of probable alluvial origin.

The trough cross‐laminated sets of the upper unit dip off near‐symmetrical ridges that probably formed as subaqueous bars. The dip azimuths of the cross‐laminae have a polymodal distribution with two bimodal maxima, one almost perpendicular to, and the second roughly parallel to the shoreline formed during the Last Interglacial. Magnitude of dip varies from horizontal to over 40°.

The sediment is clean, fine sand composed predominantly of angular grains. Sample to sample variation in grain size statistical parameters is small. The most notable feature is the extremely good sorting of the sand. Inclusive graphic standard deviation values range over 0.17–0.24? with 0.20? the modal value.

The mineralogy of the sand points to two main source areas, the Alpine metamorphic rocks to the south and south‐east, and the plutonic rocks of the Paparoa Range immediately east and south‐east of the study area.

The stratigraphic sequence is interpreted as being the product of deposition in a high energy, wave‐, tidal‐current‐, and longshore‐current‐dominated shallow neritic zone on an open coast during a transgressive cycle.  相似文献   

16.
Undular tidal bore dynamics in the Daly Estuary, Northern Australia   总被引:7,自引:0,他引:7  
Measurements in the macro-tidal Daly Estuary show that the presence of an undular tidal bore contributed negligibly to the dissipation of tidal energy. No recirculation bubble was observed between a trough and the following wave crest in the lee waves following the undular bore. This differs to stationary undular bores in laboratory experiments at larger Froude numbers where a recirculation bubble exists. Secondary motions and the turbulence generated by the undular bore had no measurable influence on the sediment transport. This situation contrasts with the intense sediment resuspension observed in breaking tidal bores. The tidally averaged sediment budget in the Daly Estuary was controlled by the asymmetry of tidal currents. The undular bore may widen the river by breaking along the banks that it undercuts, leading to bank slippage. A patch of river-wide macro-turbulence of 3-min duration occurred about 20 min after the passage of the bore during accelerating tidal currents.  相似文献   

17.
湄州湾强劲的潮流导致外海泥沙输入,但受一定程度的限制,海湾周围的陆源碎屑成为沉积物质的主要来源。水动力,特别是潮流作用控制现代沉积的格局,潮流冲刷槽为粗粒沉积属海底冲刷产物,两侧的斜坡及潮坪,从湾中央向岸,从粗细混合沉积物过渡为细粒沉积,属淤积产物。  相似文献   

18.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(2):159-175
The Frisian Inlet is one of the tidal basins of the Dutch Wadden Sea. In 1969, its basin area was reduced by 30%. As documented by bathymetric surveys, this has led to an import of sediment of 30×106 m3 over the first 18 years. The study presented in this paper seeks to establish the mechanisms responsible for the passage of the sediment through the throat cross-section of the inlet channel. Emphasis is on a 14-day period of relative calm when sediment transport can be attributed solely to tidal currents. Use is made of continuous measurements of velocity, sand and silt concentration. The measurement station was located on one side of the throat cross-section in a water depth of approximately 6 m. For both the sand and silt fraction of the sediment, suspended load transport is the dominant transport mode. It is shown that for sand, concentration variations and net transport are determined by the local (in the throat section) velocity. Especially the residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry play an important role in the net sand flux. For silt, except for transport associated with locally generated vertical mixing, the net transport is largely determined by sedimentation–erosion processes in the basin and the silt concentration in the North Sea. Comparison with measurements in a station located in the middle of the throat section shows considerable difference in residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry. As a result, the sediment fluxes also differ. Accurately determining the net sediment flux in the throat section would require a dense net of measurement stations.  相似文献   

19.
受自然变化和人类活动影响,全球海滩普遍侵蚀。研究基于大量卫星图像评估海滩演变的方法,对于缺乏实测资料的海滩的侵蚀防护具有重要意义。使用1984~2021年的993幅卫星图像,采用聚焦剖面的亚像素海岸线识别方法识别水边线和干湿线位置,进一步得出平均高、低潮线,沟槽中线和沙坝坝顶位置,利用多指标重建汇泉湾海滩地形地貌的时空演变。使用固定地物对Sentinel卫星图像进行了地理精校正,基于海滩实测结果评估了海滩岸线位置误差。结果显示,平均高潮线、沟槽中线和沙坝坝顶的系统误差和随机误差以及平均低潮线的随机误差均较小,但平均低潮线的系统误差偏大。研究结果还揭示青岛汇泉湾海滩近40年的地形和地貌演变主要受人类活动影响。海滩平均高潮线在2003年海滩整治和补沙后由稳定转为蚀退,在2017年海滩补沙后淤进减缓;沙坝和沟槽的演变则与2002年海滩东南部码头拆除有关。建议重视研究区沙坝和沟槽近期变化,定期监测以进一步掌握其演变规律,并向沙坝和沟槽补细砂维护汇泉湾海滩。  相似文献   

20.
In the upper Chesapeake Bay (Maryland, U.S.A.) field surveys were conducted at 18 multiple longshore sand bar sites. The multiple bar systems were found in water depths less than approximately 2 m (mean sea level), and exhibited mild bottom slopes of 0·0052 or less. The number of bars composing each system ranged from four to 17 and the spacing between the crests typically increased in the offshore direction, ranging from 12 to 70 m. Bar height also typically increased with distance offshore and ranged from 0·03 to 0·61 m. A grain size analysis of crest and trough sediment did not reveal any significant differences and the sediment was categorized as ‘fine sand’. A review of the literature data indicated that the Chesapeake Bay multiple bars possessed similar characteristics to those found in Gelding Bay (Baltic Sea); similarities in fetch, wave height and tidal range between the two bays may account for this finding. The surf-scaling parameter indicated that the multiple bar systems were extremely dissipative with regard to wave energy, and wave height appeared to be an important factor in controlling bar spacing and bar height. A multiple wave break point hypothesis was discussed as a possible mechanism for the formation of Chesapeake Bay multiple longshore bars, and limited observational evidence appeared to support such a mechanism.  相似文献   

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