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1.
A study is presented on the modulation of ripples induced by a long surface wave (LW) and a new theoretical modulation model
is proposed. In this model, the wind surface stress modulation is related to the modulation of ripple spectrum. The model
results show that in the case of LW propagating in the wind direction with the wave age parameter of LW increasing, the area
with enhanced shear stress shifts from the region near the LW crest on the upwind slope to the LW trough. With a smaller wave
age parameter of LW, the ripple modulation has the maximum on the upwind slope in the vicinity of LW crest, while with a larger
parameter the enhancement of ripple spectrum does not occur in that region. At low winds the amplitude of ripple modulation
transfer function (MTF) is larger in the gravity wave range, while at moderate or high winds it changes little in the range
from short gravity waves to capillary waves. 相似文献
2.
In this study, we developed the first linear Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) spectrum (JS), which involves a transformation from the JS solution to the natural logarithmic scale. This transformation is convenient for defining the least squares function in terms of the scale and shape parameters. We identified these two wind-dependent parameters to better understand the wind effect on surface waves. Due to its efficiency and high-resolution, we employed the airborne Light Detection and Ranging (LIDAR) system for our measurements. Due to the lack of actual data, we simulated ocean waves in the MATLAB environment, which can be easily translated into industrial programming language. We utilized the Longuet-Higgin (LH) random-phase method to generate the time series of wave records and used the fast Fourier transform (FFT) technique to compute the power spectra density. After validating these procedures, we identified the JS parameters by minimizing the mean-square error of the target spectrum to that of the estimated spectrum obtained by FFT. We determined that the estimation error is relative to the amount of available wave record data. Finally, we found the inverse computation of wind factors (wind speed and wind fetch length) to be robust and sufficiently precise for wave forecasting. 相似文献
3.
LIU Yuguang ) * YAN Xiao-Hai ) SU Ming-Yang ) ) Physical Oceanography Laboratory College of Marine Environment Ocean University of China Qingdao P..R.China) Center for Remote Sensing Graduate College of Marine Studies University of Delaware Newark DE USA ) Oceanography Division Naval Research Laboratory Stennis Space Center MS USA 《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2003,2(1)
1 Introduction1.1 Proposed ModelonDirectionalFrequencySpec trum ThisisthePartⅡofthetwo papersetondirection alspectraofwindwaves.Anewmodelonthedirec tionalspectrumofwindwavesfordeepwaterispro posedbasedonthestatisticsofwindwavesinthePartⅠ .Substituting (4 5 )ofPartⅠinto (4 0 )andaddingapeak enhancementitemγΓ,weobtainS(ω ,) =0 .0 0 93αaαwD( ,k) ωpω2 ξ- 4g2ω5×exp - 2 ξ+14[bωp +(1-b)ωp]4ω4 γΓ. (1)Here ,αaisthewaveagefactorofspectralcoefficientdefinedbyαa = ω0 .55… 相似文献
4.
The validation and assessment of Envisat advanced synthetic aperture radar (ASAR) ocean wave spectra products are important to their application in ocean wave numerical predictions. Six-year ASAR wave spectra data are compared with one-dimensional (1D) wave spectra of 55 co-located moored buoy observations in the northern Pacific Ocean. The ASAR wave spectra data are firstly quality control filtered and spatio-temporal matched with buoy data. The comparisons are then performed in terms of 1D wave spectra, significant wave height (SWH) and mean wave period (MWP) in different spatio-temporal offsets respectively. SWH comparison results show the evident dependence of SWH biases on wind speed and the ASAR SWH saturation effect. The ASAR wave spectra tend to underestimate SWH at high wind speeds and overestimate SWH at low wind speeds. MWP comparison results show that MWP has a systematic bias and therefore it should be bias-modified before used. The comparisons of 1D wave spectra show that both wave spectra agree better at low frequencies than at high frequencies, which indicates the ASAR data cannot resolve the high frequency waves. 相似文献
5.
Study on the growth of wind wave frequency spectra generated by cold waves in the northern East China Sea 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The growth of frequency spectra and spectral parameters of wind waves generated by cold waves, a kind of severe weather system, in the northern East China Sea is studied in this paper. Based on a third-generation wave action model(the Simulating WAves Nearshore model), simulations were developed to analyze the spatiotemporal characteristics of wind waves and to output spectral data. It is shown that the cold wave-induced spectra can be well described by the modified Joint North Sea Wave Project spectral form. The growth of wave spectra is comprehensively reflected by the evolution of the three characteristic parameters: peak frequency, spectral peak and wave energy. Besides, the approximations of dependences between spectral parameters and the three types of universal induced factors are obtained with the least squares method and compared systematically. Fetch and peak frequency turn out to be suitable parameters to describe the spectral parameters, while the dependences on the inverse wave age vary in different sea areas. In general, the derived relationships improve on results from previous studies for better practical application of the wind wave frequency spectrum in the northern East China Sea. 相似文献
6.
ZHENGGuizhen SHENGLifang CONGPeixiu 《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2004,3(2):123-128
A mechanism is suggested in this paper concerning the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves. According to this mechanism, a non-uniform current brings changes to the breaking criteria of short wind waves through modulating the surface drift, and hence enhances or weakens wave breaking. Some modification is proposed to the source term, which represents the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking so that the source term can incorporate this mechanism. In order to illustrate whether this mechanism is significant, a real case is studied, in which the wind waves propagate on a tidal current flowing over the sea bottom covered with sand waves. Finally, the effect of the new mechanism on the equilibrium spectrum of small scale gravity waves is discussed. Numerical estimates suggest that, for water depths less than 50 m and wavelengths less than 1 m, this current field may result in distinct spatial variations of the wave breaking criteria, the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation and the equilibrium spectrum of short gravity waves. 相似文献
7.
Shuiqing Li Liangming Zhou Zhanbin Li Qingsheng Miao Lin Mou Aifang Wang 《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2014,13(4):579-583
The altimeter normalized radar cross section(NRCS) has been used to retrieve the sea surface wind speed for decades, and more than a dozen of wind speed retrieval algorithms have been proposed. Despite the continuing efforts to improve the wind speed measurements, a bias dependence on wave state persists in all wind algorithms. On the basis of recent evidence that short waves are essentially modulated by local winds and much less affected by wave state, we proposed a physics-based approach to retrieve the wind speed from the dual-frequency difference in terms of the mean square slope of short waves. A collocated dataset of coincident altimeter/buoy measurements were used to develop and validate the approach. Validation against buoy measurements indicates that the approach is almost unbiased and has an overall root mean square error of 1.24 m s-1, which is 5.3% lower than the single-parameter algorithm in operational use(Witter and Chelton, 1991) and 2.4% lower than another dual-frequency approach(Chen et al., 2002). Furthermore, the results indicate that the new approach significantly improves the wave-dependent bias compared to the single-parameter algorithm. The capacity of altimeter to retrieve sea surface wind speed appears to be limited for the case of winds below 3 m s-1. The validity of the approach at high winds needs to be further examined in the future study. 相似文献
8.
We derived the dispersion relation (correct to the second order in wave slope) of nonlinear waves in a developing process, proved that there are mainly three time scales in a developing process of nonlinear waves governed by coupling mechanisms. The three time scales are oscillation, evolution and developing time scales. We also proved that even in the developing process of nonlinear waves, there is no term in dispersion relation in proportion to the first order of wave slope. In a stationary case our results agreed with the discrete form obtained by Weber in 1977. Our computed results of wave speed in the wallops spectrum were in good agreement with the laboratory measurements made by Ramamonjiarisoa (1976) in energy-containing range. 相似文献
9.
DAI Dejun WANG Wei QIAO Fangli YUAN Yeli 《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2007,6(4):345-348
Laboratory experiments and field observations show that the equilibrium range of wind wave spectra presents a – 4 power law when it is scaled properly. This feature has been attributed to energy balance in spectral space by many researchers. In this paper we point out that white noise on an oscillation system can also lead to a similar inverse power law in the corresponding displacement spectrum, implying that the – 4 power law for the equilibrium range of wind wave spectra may probably only reflect the randomicity of the wind waves rather than any other dynamical processes in physical space. This explanation may shed light on the mechanism of other physical processes with spectra also showing an inverse power law, such as isotropic turbulence, internal waves, etc. 相似文献
10.
以CCMP（Cross—Calibrated,Multi—Platfoml）风场为驱动场,分别驱动目前国际先进的第3代海浪模式ww3（WAVEWATCH—III）、SWAN（Simulating WAves Nearshore）,对2010年9月发生在东中国海的台风“圆规”所致的台风浪进行数值模拟,就台风浪的特征进行分析,并对比分析两个海浪模式的模拟效果。结果表明：1）以CCMP风场分别驱动WW3、SWAN海浪模式,可以较好地模拟发生在东中国海的台风浪,风向与波向保持了大体一致,波高与风速的分布特征保持了很好的一致性;2）综合相关系数、偏差、均方根误差、平均绝对误差来看,两个模式模拟的有效波高（SWH—Significant Wdve Height）都具有较高精度,SWAN模拟的SWH略低于观测值,WW3模拟的SWH与观测值更为接近;3）台风浪可给琉球群岛海域带来5m左右的大浪,台风浪进入东海后,波高、风速都有一定程度的增加,当台风沿西北路径穿越朝鲜半岛时,受到半岛地形的巨大影响,风速和波高都明显降低。 相似文献
11.
The Influence of wave state and sea spray on drag coefficient from low to high wind speeds 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Ocean waves alter the roughness of sea surface, and sea spray droplets redistribute the momentum flux at the air-sea interface. Hence, both wave state and sea spray influence sea surface drag coefficient. Based on the new sea spray generation function which depends on sea surface wave, a wave-dependent sea spray stress is obtained. According to the relationship between sea spray stress and the total wind stress on the sea surface, a new formula of drag coefficient at high wind speed is acquired. With the analysis of the new drag coefficient, it is shown that the drag coefficient reduces at high wind speed, indicating that the sea spray droplets can limit the increase of drag coefficient. However, the value of high wind speed corresponding to the initial reduced drag coefficient is not fixed, and it depends on the wave state, which means the influence of wave cannot be ignored. Comparisons between the theoretical and measured sea surface drag coefficients in field and laboratory show that under different wave ages, the theoretical result of drag coefficient could include the measured data, and it means that the new drag coefficient can be used properly from low to high wind speeds under any wave state condition. 相似文献
12.
A new model on the directional spectrum of wind waves for deep water is proposed based on the statistics of wind waves. This
model contains three parameters: the wave age, the inverse spectral bandwidth and the local spectral-peak angular frequency.
The inverse spectral bandwidth is a robust parameter for describing the spectral steepness of wind waves. Using the inverse
spectral bandwidth parameter, the proposed model can well describe various observations obtained from the open ocean and laboratory
tank. 相似文献
14.
LIU Yuguang ) * YAN Xiao-Hai ) SU Ming-Yang ) ) Physical Oceanography Laboratory College of Marine Environment Ocean University of China Qingdao P..R.China) Center for Remote Sensing Graduate College of Marine Studies University of Delaware Newark DE USA) Oceanography Division Naval Research Laboratory Stennis Space Center MS USA 《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2003,2(1)
1 Introduction Numerousinvestigationsondeepwaterwindwavespectrumhavebeen performed (Phillips ,195 8;Bretschneider,195 9;PiersonandMoscowitz ,196 4;Hasselmannetal.,1973;Donelanetal.,1985 ;Ban ner ,1990 ;Wenetal.,1999) .Ondimensionalground ,Phillips (195 8)suggestedthattheequilibriumfre quencyspectrumofwindwavesfordeepwatershouldbe proportionaltoω- 5,andthecorrespondingwavenumberspectrumshouldbe proportionaltok- 4,whereωistheangularfrequencyandkisthewavenumber.Forfully developedwindwaves… 相似文献
15.
The effects of different wind input and wave dissipation formulations on the steady Ekman current solution are described. Two formulations are considered： one from the wave modeling （WAM） program proposed by Hasselmann and Komen and the other provided by Tsagareli and Babanin. The solution adopted for our study was presented by Song for the wave-modified Ekman current model that included the Stokes drift, wind input, and wave dissipation with eddy viscosity increasing linearly with depth. Using the Combi spectrum with tail effects, the solutions are calculated using two formulations for wind input and wave dissipation, and compared. Differences in the results are not negligible. Furthermore, the solution presented by Song and Xu for the eddy viscosity formulated using the K-Profile Parameterization scheme under wind input and wave dissipation given by Tsagareli and Babanin is compared with that obtained for a depth-dependent eddy viscosity. The solutions are further compared with the available well-known observational data. The result indicates that the Tsagareli and Babanin scheme is more suitable for use in the model when capillary waves are included, and the solution calculated using the K-Profile Parameterization scheme agrees best with observations. 相似文献
16.
By using a coordinate transformation, an exact solution of internal tides with sub-inertial frequency isobtained when the bottom slope is linear and the Vaisala frequency is constant. Accordingly thedispersion relations of free waves are presented. This solution is suitable for general coastal low-frequencybaroclinic waves with zero alongshore wavenumber. 相似文献
17.
Xudong Zhang Jie Zhang Chenqing Fan Junmin Meng Jing Wang Yong Wan 《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2018,17(3):487-497
The 21st century Maritime Silk Road(MSR) proposed by China strongly promotes the maritime industry. In this paper, we use wind and ocean wave datasets from 1979 to 2014 to analyze the spatial and temporal distributions of the wind speed, significant wave height(SWH), mean wave direction(MWD), and mean wave period(MWP) in the MSR. The analysis results indicate that the Luzon Strait and Gulf of Aden have the most obvious seasonal variations and that the central Indian Ocean is relatively stable. We analyzed the distributions of the maximum wind speed and SWH in the MSR over this 36-year period. The results show that the distribution of the monthly average frequency for SWH exceeds 4 m(huge waves) and that of the corresponding wind speed exceeds 13.9 ms~(-1)(high wind speed). The occurrence frequencies of huge waves and high winds in regions east of the Gulf of Aden are as high as 56% and 80%, respectively. We also assessed the wave and wind energies in different seasons. Based on our analyses, we propose a risk factor(RF) for determining navigation safety levels, based on the wind speed and SWH. We determine the spatial and temporal RF distributions for different seasons and analyze the corresponding impact on four major sea routes. Finally, we determine the spatial distribution of tropical cyclones from 2000 to 2015 and analyze the corresponding impact on the four sea routes. The analysis of the dynamic characteristics of the MSR provides references for ship navigation as well as ocean engineering. 相似文献
18.
Surface waves comprise an important aspect of the interaction between the atmosphere and the ocean, so a dynamically consistent framework for modelling atmosphere-ocean interaction must take account of surface waves, either implicitly or explicitly. In order to calculate the effect of wind forcing on waves and currents, and vice versa, it is necessary to employ a consistent formula- tion of the energy and momentum balance within the airflow, wave field, and water column. It is very advantageous to apply sur- face-following coordinate systems, whereby the steep gradients in mean flow properties near the air-water interface in the cross-interface direction may be resolved over distances which are much smaller than the height of the waves themselves. We may account for the waves explicitly by employing a numerical spectral wave model, and applying a suitable theory of wave–mean flow interaction. If the mean flow is small compared with the wave phase speed, perturbation expansions of the hydrodynamic equations in a Lagrangian or generalized Lagrangian mean framework are useful: for stronger flows, such as for wind blowing over waves, the presence of critical levels where the mean flow velocity is equal to the wave phase speed necessitates the application of more general types of surface-following coordinate system. The interaction of the flow of air and water and associated differences in temperature and the concentration of various substances (such as gas species) gives rise to a complex boundary-layer structure at a wide range of vertical scales, from the sub-millimetre scales of gaseous diffusion, to several tens of metres for the turbulent Ekman layer. The bal- ance of momentum, heat, and mass is also affected significantly by breaking waves, which act to increase the effective area of the surface for mass transfer, and increase turbulent diffusive fluxes via the conversion of wave energy to turbulent kinetic energy. 相似文献
19.
Parameterized first-guess spectrum method for retrieving directional spectrum of swell-dominated waves and huge waves from SAR images 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
A method to retrieve ocean wave spectra from SAR images, named Parameterized First-guess Spectrum Method (PFSM), was proposed after interpretation of the theory to ocean wave imaging and analysis of the drawbacks of the retrieving model generally used. In this method, with additional information and satellite parameters, the separating wave-number is first calculated to determine the maximum wave-number beyond which the linear relation can be used. The separating wave-number can be calculated using the additional information on wind velocity and parameters of SAR satellite. And then the SAR spectrum can be divided into SAR spectrum of wind wave and of swell according to the result of separating wave-number. The portion of SAR spectrum generated by wind wave, is used to search for the most suitable parameters of ocean wind wave spectrum, including propagation direction of ocean wave, phase speed of dominating wave and the angle spreading coefficient. The swell spectrum is acquired by directly inversing the linear relation of ocean wave spectrum to SAR spectrum given the portion of SAR spectrum generated by swell. We used the proposed method to retrieve the ocean wave spectrum from ERS-SAR data from the South China Sea and compared the result with altimeter data. The agreement indicates that the PFSM is reliable. 相似文献
20.
The propagation of long-waves, such as tidal waves from the coastal oceam into shallow estuarine waters,often produces asymmetries of veolcity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking.Tian (1994) studied the mechanism of long-wave breaking in an infinite channel with constant depth,considering nth power bottom friction. This study is for the case of a half infinite channel with bottomslope, taking linear bottom friction into account. The wave breaking time and wave breaking location areestimated and the criteria for long-wave breaking in this particular case are obtained. The results obtainedcan also be e asily applied to the case considering wind stress. 相似文献