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1.
This paper presents new laboratory experiments carried out in a supertank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m) of breaking solitary waves evolution on a 1:60 plane beach. The measured data are employed to re-examine existing formulae that include breaking criterion, amplitude evolution and run-up height. The properties of shoreline motion, underwater particle velocity and scale effect on run-up height are briefly discussed. Based on our analyses, it is evidently found that there exist five zones during a wave amplitude evolution course on the present mild slope. A simple formula which is capable of predicting maximum run-up height for a breaking solitary wave on a uniform beach with a wide range of beach slope (1:15–1:60) is also proposed. The calculated results from the present model agree favorably with available laboratory data, indicating that our method is compatible with other predictive models. 相似文献
2.
A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions. 相似文献
3.
Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash zones on various beach slopes are discussed using numerical simulations. Simulated surface elevations of both primary waves and low-frequency waves across the surf zone were first compared with experimental data and good agreement found. Low-frequency wave characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and their relationship to the primary wave field on a series of sea bottom slopes. Unlike primary waves, low-frequency wave energy increases towards the shoreline. Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash are a function of incident waves and the sea bottom slope and hence the saturation level of the surf zone. Wave energy on a gently sloping beach is dominated by low-frequency waves while primary waves play a significant role on a steep beach. Low-frequency wave radiation from the surf zone on a given beach depends on primary wave frequency and beach slope. However, a very poor correlation was found between surf similarity parameter and low-frequency wave radiation. 相似文献
4.
Based on the lumped-mass method and rigid-body kinematics theory, a mathematical model of a gravity cage system attacked by irregular waves is developed to simulate the hydrodynamic response of cage system, including the maximum tension of mooring lines and the motion of float collar. The normalized response amplitudes (response amplitude operators) are calculated for the cage motion response in heave and surge, and the mooring line tension response, in regular waves. In addition, a statistical approach is taken to determine the motion and tension transfer functions in irregular waves. In order to validate the numerical model of a gravity cage attacked by irregular waves, numerical predictions have been compared with the experimental observations in the time and frequency domain. The effect of wave incident angle on the float collar motion, mooring line tension and net volume reduction of the gravity cage system in irregular waves is also investigated. The results show that at high frequencies, the cage system has no significant heave motion. It tends to contour itself to longer waves. The variation amplitude of mooring line forces decreases as the wave frequency increases. With the increasing of wave incident angle, the horizontal displacement of the float collar increases. 相似文献
5.
The slow drift motion of a floating body in a two-dimensional wave field has been investigated using a time-domain, fully nonlinear numerical model with non-reflective open boundaries. Preliminary computations were conducted for incident bichromatic waves, in which wave theories with different orders were applied in generating the waves required. The results show that the use of low-order theories generates undesirable free waves, and that fourth-order terms contribute markedly to low-frequency input. The motion of a rectangular floating body in response to nonlinear bichromatic waves was computed. The numerical results for small-amplitude incident waves agree reasonably well with the second-order approximation for both the steady and difference-frequency (Δσ) components in the body's motion. For relatively large waves, however, the 2Δσ component becomes predominant compared with the Δσ component. The motion of the body in irregular waves with different wave parameters has also been presented in order to discuss the validity range of a second-order approximation. 相似文献
6.
1 .IntroductionWavereflectionfromstructuresisanimportantfactorforthedesignofthestructures .Therehavebeenmanyresearchesonwavereflectionwithregularwavesandmonochromaticirregularwaves .Miche( 1 951 )proposedanon dimensionalMichenumberMfornormallyincidentirregularwavesconsideringwavebreakingbecauseofthedeepeningofwavesteepnessontheslopeofbreakwaters .ThereflectioncoefficientisproportionaltoM ,i.e .,Kr ∝M =4g( 2π) 5/ 2tan5/ 2 α(Hsf2p) ( 1 )wheregisthegravitationalacceleration ,Hsthesignifican… 相似文献
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8.
The run-up flow and related pressure of solitary waves breaking on a 1:20 plane beach were investigated experimentally in a super tank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m). Swash flow measurements of flow velocities are compared with an existing analytical solution. By incorporating an analytical solution, the hydrodynamic pressure for a quasi-steady flow state is determined and compared with laboratory data. Concerning the evident extra pressure exerted by the impact of swash flow, an empirical drag coefficient for a circular plate is also suggested in the present study. 相似文献
9.
Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope. 相似文献
10.
Spectral energy dissipation of random waves due to salt marsh vegetation (Spartina alterniflora) was analyzed using field data collected during a tropical storm. Wave data (significant wave heights up to 0.4 m in 0.8 m depth) were measured over a two-day period along a 28 m transect using 3 pressure transducers. The storm produced largely bimodal spectra on the wetland, consisting of low-frequency swell (7–10 s) and high-frequency (2–4.5 s) wind-sea. The energy dissipation varied across the frequency scales with the largest magnitude observed near the spectral peaks, above which the dissipation gradually decreased. The wind-sea energy dissipated largely in the leading section of the instrument array in the wetland, but the low-frequency swell propagated to the subsequent section with limited energy loss. Across a spectrum, dissipation did not linearly follow incident energy, and the degree of non-linearity varied with the dominant wave frequency. A rigid-type vegetation model was used to estimate the frequency-dependent bulk drag coefficient. For a given spectrum, this drag coefficient increased gradually up to the peak frequency and remained generally at a stable value at the higher frequencies. This spectral variation was parameterized by employing a frequency-dependent velocity attenuation parameter inside the canopy. This parameter had much less variability among incident wave conditions, compared to the variability of the bulk drag coefficient, allowing its standardization into a single, frequency-dependent curve for velocity attenuation inside a canopy. It is demonstrated that the spectral drag coefficient predicts the frequency-dependent energy dissipation with more accuracy than the integral coefficient. 相似文献
11.
The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform. 相似文献
12.
Experimental study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Low-frequency waves generated on steep (1:10) and mild (1:40) slopes by six series of bichromatic wave groups are studied experimentally. The shorelines for both slopes are replaced by horizontal reaches of small depth. This reduces the reflection of long waves near the shoreline significantly, which for the first time makes possible the explicit observation of outgoing breakpoint forced long waves. The breakpoint and released bound long wave mechanisms on the different slopes are compared. Generally, the breakpoint forced long waves dominate the low-frequency wave field on the steep slope, while the released bound long waves are found to be more significant on the mild slope. Two parameters indexing the effectiveness of the breakpoint mechanism are compared and the normalized slope tends to give more realistic results. Shoaling of bound long waves is analyzed and the shallow-water equilibrium limit ~ h−5/2 exhibits a good prediction of the variation of the bound long waves on both slopes. 相似文献
13.
沿岸流不稳定运动属于超低频运动,研究它的传播特性,有助于深入理解其对岸滩演变、污染物、鱼卵等输移、迁移的影响。本文基于小波相干谱对所选实验波况进行了研究,分析了规则波、随机波入射情况下沿岸流不稳定运动传播特性,并讨论了入射波高、周期、坡度等对其的影响。结果表明,不规则波更易诱导出沿岸流不稳定运动,且在不规则波情况下,不稳定运动在沿岸方向相距4 m的两个断面上产生的相位差都约为±30°,与波浪入射角相近;随着入射波高的增加,非线性随之增强,更易诱导出不稳定运动,生成的沿岸流不稳定运动周期范围将增大;入射波周期对沿岸流不稳定运动的传播特性影响较小;坡度越陡越易诱导出超低频的不稳定运动。 相似文献
14.
M. Salih Kirkgz 《Ocean Engineering》1990,17(4)
Laboratory experiments are conducted to measure the impact pressures and resulting deflections from breaking oscillatory waves on a vertical wall with 1/10 foreshore slope. The maximum impact pressure data on the wall are statistically analysed and the relationships between the magnitudes of impact pressures and forces, and their durations, are investigated. The maximum impact pressures, among the 90 wave impacts, are found to vary between 1.37 × 104and 28.3 × 104Pa. The maximum impact pressures are shown to reasonably satisfy the log-normal probability distribution and they occur most frequently slightly below the still-water level. The greatest wall deflection at the point of measurement is caused by an impact which has a maximum pressure of 3.6 × 104Pa, corresponding to 50% probability in the log-normal distribution. It is found that the longer-lasting low impact forces are more effective in producing the larger wall deflections. In this respect, the maximum impact pressures in the range between 2.5 × 104and 5 × 104Pa obtained in this study are found to be the most effective. The upper limit of this range (when non-dimensionalised by the specific weight of water and deep-water wave steepness) is suggested as a design value for vertical walls. 相似文献
15.
E.P. Dever C.E. Dorman J.L. Largier 《Deep Sea Research Part II: Topical Studies in Oceanography》2006,53(25-26):2887
A five-element mooring array is used to study surface boundary-layer transport over the Northern California shelf from May to August 2001. In this region, upwelling favorable winds increase in strength offshore, leading to a strong positive wind stress curl. We examine the cross-shelf variation in surface Ekman transport calculated from the wind stress and the actual surface boundary-layer transport estimated from oceanic observations. The two quantities are highly correlated with a regression slope near one. Both the Ekman transport and surface boundary layer transport imply curl-driven upwelling rates of about 3×10−4 m s−1 between the 40 and 90 m isobaths (1.5 and 11.0 km from the coast, respectively) and curl-driven upwelling rates about 1.5×10−4m s−1 between the 90 and 130 m isobaths (11.0 and 28.4 km from the coast, respectively). Thus curl-driven upwelling extends to at least 25 km from the coast. In contrast, upwelling driven by the adjustment to the coastal boundary condition occurs primarily inshore of the 40-m isobath. The upwelling rates implied by the differentiating the 40-m transport observations with the coastal boundary condition are up to 8×10−4 m s−1. The estimated upwelling rates and the temperature–nitrate relationship imply curl-driven vertical nitrate flux divergences are about half of those driven by coastal boundary upwelling. 相似文献
16.
Jeffrey H. List 《Coastal Engineering》1991,15(5-6)
This paper proposes a new definition of the groupiness factor, GF, based on the envelope of the incident-wave time series. It is shown that an envelope-based GF has several important advantages over the SIWEH-based groupiness factor, including objective criteria for determining the accuracy of the envelope function and well-defined numerical limits.Using this new GF, the variability of incident wave groupiness in the field is examined both temporally, in unbroken waves at a fixed location, and spatially, in a cross-shore array through the surf zone. Contrary to previous studies using the SIWEH-based GF, results suggest that incident wave groupiness may not be an independent parameter in unbroken waves; through a wide range of spectral shapes, from swell to storm waves, the groupiness did not vary significantly. As expected, the groupiness decreases rapidly as waves break through the surf zone, although significant wave height variability persists even through a saturated surf zone. The source of this inner surf zone groupiness is not identified; however, this observation implies that models of long wave generation must account for nonsteady radiation stress gradients landward of some narrow zone near the mean breakpoint. 相似文献
17.
低频长波对港湾共振、泥沙输运、波浪爬高与越浪等过程有重要影响。采用非静压模型SWASH模拟了不规则波在浅滩上的传播及破碎过程,重点探讨了滩顶短波破碎程度对低频波能演变的影响。模拟结果显示,当滩顶短波处于临界破碎状态时,低频波能流沿浅滩持续增长,浅滩对低频长波的放大效应（滩后与滩前低频波能流之比）显著;当滩顶短波轻微破碎、破波仅发生在外破波区时,低频波能流的沿滩增长率进一步变大;当滩顶短波剧烈破碎、破波延续到内破波区时,低频波能流沿滩先增长而后转为衰减,滩后放大率较临界破碎时明显减小。研究结果表明,浅滩顶部水深改变了短波破碎程度,进而影响低频长波的演化过程,浅滩上长波总体增长率随滩顶水深的减小呈现先增大后减小的规律,在短波轻微破碎时最大。 相似文献
18.
In this paper,the long-term statistical properties of wave height in an idealized square harborwith a partial opening are studied.The incident waves are propagated into the harbor numerically by the fi-nite/infinite element method using three different wave models:(1)monochromatic wave train,(2)long-crested random wave train,and(3)short-crested random wave train.This study shows that for a giv-en incident wave,the wave height in the harbor is affected by the wave model used.For long-term estima-tion of wave height exceedance probability,it is recommended that the waves be propagated into the har-bor using the random wave model,and that wave heights be computed by use of the Rayleigh probabilitydistribution. 相似文献
19.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(6):497-511
A weakly non-linear Boussinesq model with a slot-type shoreline boundary is used to simulate swash oscillations on beaches. Numerical simulations of swash were compared with laboratory measurements and in general good agreement found (less than 15% root-mean-square error of surface elevation except in regular waves). A series of numerical experiments on shoreline movement were then performed for a range of beach slopes and incident wave conditions. The resulting swash characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and spectral properties. On steep slopes, both individual bores and infragravity waves are equally significant in driving the swash while infragravity waves alone drive them on mild slopes. Swash excursions on any given slope are found to be highest when individual bores from a partially saturated surf zone ride on top of low-frequency waves. This is confirmed by the relationship found between swash excursion and wave groupiness in the surf zone. Swash excursions increase with increasing incident wave energy, even in fully saturated surf zones. However, a poor correlation is found between swash excursion and the surf similarity parameter due to the involvement of infragravity wave energy in the swash. 相似文献
20.
In actual sea states, damage to offshore floating structures is usually caused by a few extreme waves or wave groups in an irregular wave train. Accurate simulation of the irregular wave trains can lay a solid foundation for understanding the local flow field and impact loads that would potentially cause such damage. This paper describes how the generation of a single extreme wave was investigated. Determination of the wave-maker motion for generating specified irregular wave trains is the key to this work. First, an experimental irregular wave train was decomposed into a certain number of small-amplitude waves. Fourier series expansion was performed to determine the amplitude and the initial phase angle of each wave component. Then a hydrodynamic transfer function was used to calculate the amplitude of the wave-maker motion associated with each wave component. Superposition was made on all the wave components to get the final wave-maker motion. During the numerical simulation, calculated horizontal velocity profiles of the extreme wave at different moments were analyzed and compared with experimental results, and a satisfactory agreement was obtained. In the simulation, VOF method was employed to capture the free surface, and a dissipation zone was used to deal with wave reflection. 相似文献