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1.
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2.
Sediment transport and short‐term morphologic change were evaluated at a site where sand fences are deployed and the beach is raked (Managed Site) and a site where these human adjustments are not practiced (Unmanaged Site). Data were gathered across the seaward portion of a low foredune when winds blew nearly shore‐normal at mean speeds 8.9 to 9.3 m s‐1. Data from traps revealed sediment transport rates at unvegetated portions of the foredune crest (40.2 to 43.5 kg m‐1 h‐1) were greater than on the backshore (4.9 to 11.2 kg m‐1 h‐1) due to onshore decreases in surface moisture and speed‐up of the wind passing over the foredune. Data from erosion pins indicate sediment input to the dune was 1.48 m3 m‐1 alongshore at the Managed Site and 1.25 m3 m‐1 at the Unmanaged Site. The Unmanaged Site had deposition at the dune toe, erosion at mid‐slope, and deposition at the crest. Deposition occurred at mid‐slope on the Managed Site near a partially buried (0.58 m high) fence with a porosity of about 65%. Deposition at partially buried wrack on the upper backshore and dune toe at the Unmanaged Site was about twice as great as deposition in this zone at the Managed Site. Results indicate that: (1) the seaward slope of the foredune can be a more important source of sand to the lee of the crest than the beach; (2) wrack near the toe can decrease transport into the foredune; (3) a scour zone can occur on the foredune slope above the wrack line; (4) a fence placed in this location can promote deposition and offset scour, but fences can restrict delivery of sediment farther inland. Evaluation of alternative configurations of fences and strategies for managing wrack is required to better determine the ways that humans modify foredunes. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
More than 4000 hourly wind profiles measured on three topographically different foredunes are analysed and discussed. Wind flow over the foredunes is studied by means of the relative wind speed: the ratio between wind speed at a certain location and the reference wind speed at the same height. Relative wind speeds appear to be independent of general wind speed but dependent on wind direction. For perpendicular onshore winds the flow over the foredune is accelerated due to topographic changes and decelerated due to changes in surface roughness. Accelerations dominate over decelerations on the seaward slope. The pattern of acceleration and deceleration in relation to wind direction is more or less comparable for different foredunes, but the magnitudes differ. An increase in foredune height from 6 to 10m leads to an increase in speed-up near the top of the seaward slope from 110 to 150 per cent during onshore wind, but further increase of foredune height from 10 to 23m appears to have little effect, due to increased roughness and deflection of flow. Topography also influences the direction of the flow. Between beach and top, the flow deflects in the direction of the normal during onshore winds. During offshore winds the flow is deflected to the parallel. Near the dunefoot, deflection is always in the direction of the parallel, and increases with steeper topography. The maximum deflection near the dunefoot was 90°, over a 23 m high dune, observed during offshore winds. Patterns of erosion and sedimentation resulting from winds from different directions can be explained by the observed accelerations and decelerations. Owing to speed-up on the seaward front of the foredune, sand transport capacity of the wind increases, which results in erosion if vegetation is absent. During strong onshore wind, sand is lifted near the dunefoot and moves over the foredune in suspension. During weaker winds, vertical wind velocities do not exceed fall velocities of the sand grains, and most of the sand is deposited near the dunefoot.  相似文献   

4.
Near‐surface airflow over a morphologically simple, vegetated, 8 m high foredune with a small wave‐cut scarp was measured for onshore to oblique‐onshore conditions during a low‐moderate (5–6 m s‐1 ) wind event and a high velocity (11–18 m s‐1) sand‐transporting gale event. Flow across the foredune was characterized by significant flow compression and acceleration up and across the foredune during both events. During the gale, a pronounced jet (speed bulge) developed at the foredune crest, which increased in magnitude with increasing wind speed. The vertical (W) velocity component of the 3D flow field was positive (upwards) across the stoss slope under low wind conditions but negative (downwards) during gale wind conditions, with upslope acceleration. During the low velocity event, there was speed‐down within the vegetation canopy, as would be expected for a porous roughness cover. During the strong wind event there was speed‐up in the lower portion of the vegetation canopy, and this was found up the entire stoss slope. Sediment transport during the gale force event was substantial across the beach and foredune despite the moderate vegetation cover and minimum fetch. Aeolian suspension was evident in the lee of the dune crest. The observations presented herein show that strong storm winds are an effective mechanism for translating sediment landwards across a high vegetated foredune, contributing sediment to the stoss slope, crest and leeward slopes of the foredune and backing dunes. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
A series of airborne topographic LiDAR data were obtained from May 2008 to January 2014 over two coastal sites of northern France (Bay of Wissant and east of Dunkirk). These data were used with wind and tide gauge measurements to assess the impacts of storms on beaches and coastal dunes, and particularly of the series of major storms that hit western Europe during the fall and early winter of 2013. Our results show a high variability in shoreline response from one site to the other, but also within each coastal site. Coastal dune erosion and shoreline retreat occurred at both sites, particularly on the coast of the Bay of Wissant where shoreline retreat up to about 40 m was measured. However, stability or even shoreline advance were also observed despite the occurrence of an extreme water level with a return period >100 years during the storm Xaver in early December 2013. Comparison of shoreline change with variations of coastal dune and upper beach volumes revealed only weak relationships. Our results nevertheless showed that shoreline behavior seems to strongly depend on the initial sediment volume on the upper beach before the occurrence of the storms. According to our measurements, an upper beach volume of about 30 m3 m?1 between the dune toe and the mean high water level is sufficient at these sites to protect the coastal dunes from storm waves associated with high water levels with return periods >10 years. The identification of such thresholds in terms of upper beach width or sediment volume may represent valuable information for improving the management of shoreline change by providing an estimate of the minimum quantity of sand on the upper beach necessary to ensure shoreline stability in this region. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Embryo dunes are often ephemeral, but can develop to become established coastal foredunes. In 2001 a patch of embryo dunes 13.11 m2 appeared on a beach in north Lincolnshire, UK and had expanded to over 3600 m2 by 2011. The rate of expansion is linked to storm occurrence, where expansion is slowed during years with a higher incidence of storm surges. From July 2009–October 2010 seasonal changes in dune field topography were determined using terrestrial laser scanning (TLS) data. Vegetation is important in the development of embryo dunes, but can cause errors in TLS data. Tests evaluating the impact of vegetation on the TLS data suggest the minimum elevation value from the TLS point cloud within a 0.05 m grid cell gives a good approximation of the ground surface. Digital elevation models (DEMs) of the dunes constructed using filtered data showed the embryo dunes underwent a classic seasonal cycle of erosion during the winter and accretion during the summer. For example from October 2009 to April 2010 over 375 m3 of sediment was eroded from the dunes whereas during spring and summer 2010 the dune field gained over 600 m3 of sand. The overall magnitude of change in dune height and volume from season to season exceeded the errors associated with the construction of the DEM from the TLS data and the vegetation filtering process, which suggests TLS can be useful for documenting topographic change in vegetated dunes. After 10 years, the patch of embryo dunes is still expanding but has not yet merged with more established foredunes to landward. Aeolian process measurements indicate that, at present, the embryo dunes do not prevent sand from reaching the foredunes, however the rate of foredune progradation has slowed concurrently with the expansion of the embryo dune field. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
Wind flow and sand transport intensity were measured on the seaward slope of a vegetated foredune during a 16 h storm using an array of sonic anemometers and Wenglor laser particle counters. The foredune had a compound seaward slope with a wave‐cut scarp about 0.5 m high separating the upper vegetated portion from the lower dune ramp, which was bare of vegetation. Wind direction veered from obliquely offshore at the start of the event to obliquely onshore during the storm peak and finally to directly onshore during the final 2 h as wind speed dropped to below threshold. Sand transport was initially inhibited by a brief period of rain at the start of the event but as the surface dried and wind speed increased sand transport was initiated over the entire seaward slope. Transport intensity was quite variable both temporally and spatially on the upper slope as a result of fluctuating wind speed and direction, but overall magnitudes were similar over the whole length. Ten‐minute average transport intensity correlates strongly with mean wind speed measured at the dune crest, and there is also strong correlation between instantaneous wind speed and transport intensity measured at the same locations when the data are smoothed with a 10 s running mean. Transport on the beach for onshore winds is decoupled from that on the seaward slope above the small scarp when the wind angle is highly oblique, but for wind angles <45° from shore perpendicular some sand is transported onto the lower slope. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

8.
This paper documents application of an established geostatistical methodology to detect significant changes in a foredune–transgressive dune complex where Parks Canada Agency (PCA) implemented a dynamic restoration program to remove invasive marram grasses (Ammophila spp.) and enhance dynamic dune habitat for an endangered species. Detailed topographic surveys of a 10 320 m2 site in the Wickaninnish Dunes in Pacific Rim National Park, British Columbia, Canada for the first year post‐treatment are compared to a pre‐restoration LiDAR baseline survey. The method incorporates inherent spatial structure in measured elevation datasets at the sub‐landscape scale and models statistically significant change surfaces within distinct, linked geomorphic units (beach, foredune, transgressive dune complex). Seasonal and annual responses within the complex are discussed and interpreted. All geomorphic units experienced positive sediment budgets following restoration treatment. The beach experienced the highest differential volumetric change (+1656 m3) and net sediment influx (+834 m3, 0 · 19 m3 m–2) mostly from supply to the supratidal beach and incipient dune. This sediment influx occurred independent of the restoration effort and was available as a buffer against wave erosion and as supply to the landward dunes. The foredune received +200 m3 (0 · 13 m3 m‐2) and its seaward profile returned to a similar pre‐restoration form following erosion at the crest from vegetation removal and scarping by high water events. Sediment bypassing and minimal change was evident at the mid‐stoss slope with appreciable extension of depositional lobes in the lee. The transgressive dune complex experienced high accretion following restoration activity (+201 m3) and over the year (+284 m3, 0 · 07 m3 m–2) mostly from depositional lobes from the foredune, precipitation ridge growth along the downwind boundary, and growth of existing lobes within the complex. Further integration of this methodology to detect significant geomorphic changes is recommended, particularly for applications where sampling densities are limited or logistically defined. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
Wind characteristics and aeolian transport were measured on a naturally evolving beach and dune and a nearby site where the beach is raked and sand‐trapping fences are deployed. The beaches were composed of moderately well sorted to very well sorted fine to medium sand. The backshore at the raked site was wider and the foredune was more densely vegetated and about 1 m higher than at the unraked site. Wind speeds were monitored using anemometers placed at 1 m elevation and sand transport was monitored using vertical traps during oblique onshore, alongshore and offshore winds occurring in March and April 2009. Inundation of the low backshore through isolated swash channels prevented formation of a continuously decreasing cross‐shore moisture gradient. The surface of the berm crest was dryer than the backshore, making the berm crest the greatest source of offshore losses during offshore winds. The lack of storm wrack on the raked beach reduced the potential for sediment accumulation seaward of the dune crest during onshore winds, and the higher dune crest reduced wind speeds and sediment transport from the dune to the backshore during offshore winds. Accretion at wrack seaward of the dune toe on the unraked beach resulted in a wider dune field and higher, narrower backshore. Although fresh wrack is an effective local trap for aeolian transport, wrack that becomes buried appears to have little effect as a barrier and can supply dry sand for subsequent transport. Aeolian transport rates were greater on the narrower but dryer backshore of the unraked site. Vegetation growth may be necessary to trap sand within zones of buried wrack in order to allow new incipient foredunes to evolve. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
The behaviour of offshore‐directed winds over coastal dune and beach morphology was examined using a combination of modelling (3‐D computational fluid dynamics (CFD)) and field measurement. Both model simulations and field measurements showed reversal of offshore flows at the back beach and creation of an onshore sediment transport potential. The influence of flow reversals on the beach‐dune transport system and foredune growth patterns has previously received little attention. Detailed wind flow measurements were made using an extensive array of mast‐mounted, 3‐D ultrasonic anemometers (50 Hz), arranged parallel to the dominant incident wind direction. Large eddy simulation (LES) of the offshore wind flow over the dune was conducted using the open‐source CFD tool openFOAM. The computational domain included a terrain model obtained by airborne LiDAR and detailed ground DGPS measurements. The computational grid (~22 million cells) included localized mesh refinement near the complex foredune terrain to capture finer details of the dune morphology that might affect wind flows on the adjacent beach. Measured and simulated wind flow are presented and discussed. The CFD simulations offer new insights into the flow mechanics associated with offshore winds and how the terrain steering of wind flow impacts on the geomorphological behaviour of the dune system. Simulation of 3‐D wind flows over complex terrain such as dune systems, presents a valuable new tool for geomorphological research, as it enables new insights into the relationship between the wind field and the underlying topography. The results show that offshore and obliquely offshore winds result in flow reversal and onshore directed winds at distances of up to 20 m from the embryo dune toe. The potential geomorphological significance of the findings are discussed and simple calculations show that incoming offshore and obliquely offshore winds with mean velocities over 13 m s?1 and 7 m s?1, respectively, have the potential to create onshore‐directed winds at the back beach with mean velocities above 3.3 m s?1. These are above the threshold of movement for dry sand and support previous conclusions about the significance of offshore winds in dune and beach budget calculations. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
Vegetation surveys were conducted on a variety of coastal foredunes in a largely natural region along the Gulf County region of the Florida panhandle. Species presence, absence and percentage cover were surveyed on 12 foredune profiles during different seasons. The vegetation data were analyzed using the Shannon–Wiener Diversity Index and Sørensen Index. Uniola sp. and Andropgon sp. were the dominant species on foredunes. Uniola sp. was found predominantly on the gulfward facing or stoss slopes, and Andropgon sp. was found to be dominant on the inland or lee slopes of foredunes. While they are present on all foredunes, their presence and percentage cover are dominant on rapidly prograding coasts. Prograding/accretional beaches had higher Sørensen Index values (i.e. higher similarities) than did the foredune‐vegetation profiles on eroding beaches. Diversity as indicated by the Shannon–Wiener analysis (H’) is greatest on the highest, and generally eroding dunes. Foredune diversity increased with foredune height, and the tallest foredunes were found on shorelines with relatively low erosion rates, where dunes were slowly translating landwards, cannibalizing older dunes, and moving into areas colonized by late successional species, such as Quercus sp. These observations of foredune species richness, diversity, profile similarities, and the use of ecological indices can provide excellent proxy evidence of shoreline dynamics, and in particular the degree of beach erosion and accretion, in the absence of historical erosion/accretion data. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
Deposits of late‐Holocene beach sand buried conifer forests episodically emerge on beaches of the Oregon coast. Simultaneously, sand dunes buried late‐Holocene forests growing on marine terraces landward of the beaches. Dune ramps, up to 60 m in elevation, connected the beach and dune deposits. The average age of wood samples from stumps rooted on the shore platforms is 3·07 ± 1·45 ka. The average age of wood and charcoal samples embedded in forest soil on the marine terraces is 3·27 ± 1·46 ka. Between 1994 and 2006, winter storm waves exposed more than 4·5 km2 of late‐Holocene forest soil on shore platforms at 19 localities. Rooted stumps without soil were uncovered at an additional 14 localities. Once exposed, wave action eroded the soil rapidly (one to two years). The intact forest soil and roots on the shore platforms must have been nearly continuously buried, protected and preserved prior to recent exposure. The late‐Holocene buried forest provides the basis for a conceptual model of coastal evolution. A three stage reversal of erosion and sand supply must have occurred: (1) wave erosion switched to seaward advancement of forests, (2) forest growth and soil development switched to burial beneath beach and dune sand and (3) burial and preservation switched to wave erosion, truncation of dune ramps and landward retreat of sea cliffs. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
Concepts derived from previous studies of offshore winds on natural dunes are evaluated on a dune maintained for shore protection during three offshore wind events. The potential for offshore winds to form a lee‐side eddy on the backshore or transfer sediment from the dune and berm crest to the water are evaluated, as are differences in wind speed and sediment transport on the dune crest, berm crest and a pedestrian access gap. The dune is 18–20 m wide near the base and has a crest 4.5 m above backshore elevation. Two sand‐trapping fences facilitate accretion. Data were obtained from wind vanes on the crest and lee of the dune and anemometers and sand traps placed across the dune, on the beach berm crest and in the access gap. Mean wind direction above the dune crest varied from 11 to 3 deg from shore normal. No persistent recirculation eddy occurred on the 12 deg seaward slope. Wind speed on the berm crest was 85–89% of speed at the dune crest, but rates of sediment transport were 2.27 times greater during the strongest winds, indicating that a wide beach overcomes the transport limitation of a dune barrier. Limited transport on the seaward dune ramp indicates that losses to the water are mostly from the backshore, not the dune. The seaward slope gains sand from the landward slope and dune crest. Sand fences causing accretion on the dune ramp during onshore winds lower the seaward slope and reduce the likelihood of detached flows during offshore winds. Transport rates are higher in access gaps than on the dune crest despite lower wind speeds because of flatter slopes and absence of vegetation. Transport rates across dunes and through gaps can be reduced using vegetation and raised walkover structures. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

14.
The Oceano Dunes near Pismo Beach, California is part of a large transgressive dune system that extends up to 5 km inland and hosts a state park that has been managed for off-highway vehicle recreation since 1982, although vehicle activity has existed in the dunes for almost 90 years. As a result, foredunes have been largely obliterated and sand surfaces in vehicle use areas are highly emissive of dust-sized particles, causing frequent exceedances of state air quality standards. To reduce dust emissions from the dunes, a nature-based foredune restoration strategy using five different treatments over a 20-ha site was implemented in February 2020. The research hypothesis is that treatments will differ in their ability to promote deposition and dune development and that more intensive planting-based treatments will outperform simpler treatments. We test this using biannual high-resolution uncrewed aerial system (UAS) surveys to quantify sediment budgets, sand exchanges between beach, foredune, and backdune components, changes in plant cover, and related dune development over a 2-year period (October 2019–2021). After two full wind and plant-growth seasons, results show that all treatments are maintaining a positive sediment budget (net accumulation), most are developing sizable nebkha dunes (an important stage in foredune development in this region), and some are increasing plant cover and species richness. There is no clear winner, yet two treatments (broadcast native plant and sterile grass seeds, and a high-density straw planting node with native seedlings) are performing well toward developing an incipient foredune. These results will inform an adaptive management process that could entail further modifications to enhance foredune development. Based on this experience, and with reference to other types of restoration projects, we refine existing criteria used to assess the performance of “dynamic” dune restoration efforts to include settings that involve revegetation (vs. devegetation) as a means for foredune re-establishment.  相似文献   

15.
Coastal dunes are dynamic features that are continuously evolving due to constructive (e.g., wind- and wave-driven sediment transport) and destructive (e.g., elevated total water levels during storm events) processes. However, the relative importance of these processes in determining dune evolution is often poorly understood. In this study, ten lidar datasets from 1997 to 2016 are used to determine the relative role of erosion and accretion processes driving foredune change on the coast of Cape Lookout National Seashore, North Carolina, USA. Beach and dune morphometrics reveal that dune toe locations have generally retreated since 1997, while dune crest heights accreted by 0.01–0.02 m/year. We develop three univariate metrics that represent (1) the potential for erosion, i.e., total water level impact hours per year, (2) accretion, i.e., dune building hours per year, and (3) the relative net effect of foredune accretion and erosion processes, i.e., constructive–destructive dune forcing (CDDF) ratio, and test the correlative power of these metrics in explaining changes in foredune morphology. The total water level impact hours per year metric explained as much as 66% and 67% of the variance in dune crest and toe elevations, respectively, across the nearly two decades of dune evolution. The greatest number of dune building hours per year and largest dunes within the study site co-occurred at locations exposed to the dominant cross-shore wind direction as a result of varying shoreline orientation. The CDDF ratio was positively correlated to changes in the dune toe elevation in approximately 70% of dunes within the study site, outperforming the impact and dune building hours per year metrics. Our results show that these three metrics can provide first-order estimates of dune morphometric change across multiple spatial and temporal scales, which may be particularly useful at sites where lidar acquisition is intermittent.  相似文献   

16.
Extensive coastal dune ?elds occur on the Quaternary strandplain associated with the São Francisco River mouth. Two different generations of dunes are identi?ed. One is inactive, already ?xed by vegetation, comprising parabolic dunes. The other generation is active, bordering the present‐day shoreline and transgressing over the inactive dune ?eld. Three morphological provinces in the active coastal dune ?elds are recognized. On the updrift side of the São Francisco River mouth, they are: (a) sand‐sheet with shrub coppice and shadow dunes; (b) isolated dunes of the barchan‐transversal type up to 5 m high, and interdune areas; and (c) a 23 m high compound dune, with superimposed small dunes. The same provinces are recognized on the downdrift side of the river mouth, with two important exceptions: the barchan‐transversal and compound dunes are replaced, respectively, by (i) zibar‐type dunes up to 5 m high, and (ii) a 19 m high precipitation dune, which is associated with numerous blowouts. The prevailing eastern winds from August to January favour the development of the aeolian bedforms and the migration of dunes. The shoreline orientation almost transversal to the winds and the great supply of ?ne‐grained sediments contribute to the formation of barchan‐transversal types and compound dunes in the updrift side. On the other hand, in the downdrift side the shoreline orientation is almost parallel to the prevailing winds. This fact, in association with a coarser grain size in the beachface, favours the formation of zibar‐type and precipitation dunes with numerous blowouts. The rate of migration of individual dunes is about 20 to 24 m per year. This study suggests that the aeolian sedimentation is a relatively recent phenomenon at the Quaternary strandplain of the São Francisco River. The ?rst generation of dune ?elds initiated some time after 3000 years BP and the second generation originated some centuries ago. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
In this study, the decadal evolution of a washover fan on the west coast of Denmark is examined from its initial generation in 1990 until 2015. Since its inception, the bare and flat washover fan surface has recovered and accreted slowly due to re-activation by overwash during surges and due to aeolian activity and dune formation, stimulated by vegetation growth. The volume of sand on the washover has increased steadily at an average rate of about 23 m3/yr per unit length of shoreline, and a total of 175,000 m3 of sand is now deposited on the fan, while at the same time the shoreline has receded by some 250 m. The evolution can be divided into three stages: 1) An initiation phase when storm surge levels and energetic wave conditions caused a breach in the foredunes and overwash processes formed a washover fan with a relatively low elevation above mean sea level; 2) An initial recovery phase during which waves supplied sand to the fan during frequent overwash activity and winds transported this sand into marginal dunes surrounding the fan; and 3) A later recovery phase when the surface of the fan had accreted to a level where vegetation could survive and trap sediment into new foredune growth across the fan. The rate of accretion has been overall linear but scales with neither annual overwash frequency, nor with aeolian transport potential. Instead, the linear accretion is more closely related to the steady onshore migration of nearshore bars that weld to the beach and provide a sand supply for transfer to the fan. The fan evolution demonstrates the importance of washover fans in preserving barrier resilience during transgressional phases caused by increasing mean sea level. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
Changes in wind speed and sediment transport are evaluated at a gap and adjacent crest of a 2 to 3 m high, 40 m wide foredune built by sand fences and vegetation plantings on a wide, nourished fine sand beach at Ocean City, New Jersey. Anemometer masts, cylindrical sand traps and erosion pins were placed on the beach and dune during two obliquely onshore wind events in February and March 2003. Results reveal that: (1) changes in the alongshore continuity of the beach and dune system can act as boundaries to aeolian transport when winds blow at an angle to the shoreline; (2) oblique winds blowing across poorly vegetated patches in the dune increase the potential for creating an irregular crest elevation; (3) transport rates and deflation rates can be greater within the foredune than on the beach, if the dune surface is poorly vegetated and the beach has not had time to dry following tidal inundation; (4) frozen ground does not prevent surface deflation; and (5) remnant sand fences and fresh storm wrack have great local but temporary effect on transport rates. Temporal and spatial differences due to sand fences and wrack, changes in sediment availability due to time‐dependent differences in surface moisture and frozen ground, combined with complex topography and patchy vegetation make it difficult to specify cause–effect relationships. Effects of individual roughness elements on the beach and dune on wind flow and sediment transport can be quantified at specific locations at the event scale, but extrapolation of each event to longer temporal and spatial scales remains qualitative. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
Submarine dune dynamics are controlled by tidal currents and wind forces. According to the relative influence of these forces and the nature of dune sediment, different bedform behaviors can be observed. The footprint of the different hydrodynamic agents is recorded into the internal architecture of dunes. This paper is concerned with bedforms that compose the thick sediment wedge located in the eastern English Channel, off the Bay of Somme. This sedimentary archive constitutes an interesting feature to achieve a better understanding of seabed sediment dynamics and its timeline building stages. The dynamics of large submarine dunes, which are organized in fields, are studied thanks to bathymetric and seismic data over the periods 1937–1993 and 1993–2007. Dune morphology presents low lee and stoss side slopes (on average 8° and 3°, respectively) and dune migration rate is not very high. Dune movements are in the direction of residual tidal currents, i.e. toward the east, with mean migration rates around 0·8 to 5 ± 0·25 m yr?1 and up to 6·6 ± 0·7 m yr?1, respectively, at multi‐decennial and decennial time scales. The dune internal architecture is complex with superimposed eastward prograding units, displaying locally opposite progradation. Second‐order discontinuities (dip of 0·5°–4° perpendicular to dune crests) constitute dune master bedding. By counting the number of second‐order reflectors between 1937–1993 and 1993–2007, the formation periodicity of these bounding surfaces is estimated to range from 4 to 18 years. These time intervals coincide with the long‐term tidal cyclicities and also with the inter‐annual to decennial variability of storm activity in northern Europe. Two theories were made to interpret the dune internal structures: the second‐order surfaces are interpreted either as the depositional surfaces corresponding to the marks of weak energy periods (weak tidal and storm action), or as erosive surfaces due to an opposite direction of dune migration provoked temporarily by exceptional storms from the northeast. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
Coastal barriers are ubiquitous globally and provide a vital protective role to valuable landforms, habitats and communities located to landward. They are, however, vulnerable to extreme water levels and storm wave impacts. A detailed record of sub‐annual to annual; decadal; and centennial rates of shoreline retreat in frontages characterized by both high (> 3 m) and low (< 1 m) dunes is established for a barrier island on the UK east coast. For four storms (2006–2013) we match still water levels and peak significant wave heights against shoreline change at high levels of spatial densification. The results suggest that, at least in the short‐term, shoreline retreat, of typically 5–8 m, is primarily driven by individual events, separated by varying periods of barrier stasis. Over decadal timescales, significant inter‐decadal changes can be seen in both barrier onshore retreat rates and in barrier extension rates alongshore. Whilst the alongshore variability in barrier migration seen in the short‐term remains at the decadal scale, shoreline change at the centennial stage shows little alongshore variability between a region of barrier retreat (at 1.15 m a?1) and one of barrier extension. A data‐mining approach, synchronizing all the variables that drive shoreline change (still water level, timing of high spring tides and peak significant wave heights), is an essential requirement for validating models that predict future shoreline responses under changing sea level and storminess. © 2016 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

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