共查询到18条相似文献，搜索用时 453 毫秒
1.
海滩碎波带波能振荡的多尺度分析 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
对不同波况条件下实测的一岬间海滩碎波带两个上的波面数据,通过小波变换方法计算了小波谱,并作了显性检验。结果表明：（１）碎波带波能存在典型的多尺度振荡特性;（２）在正常波况下,波能主要分布于风浪频域,入射波自外测站向内测站传播过程中,能量具有向低频方向转移的趋势;（３）在高能波况下,能量均向长重力波频带增加,在长力波显尺度,二测站之间存在良好的位相一致关系。 相似文献
2.
粤东后江湾近岸长重力波特征分析 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用粤东后江湾近岸有限水深(包括碎波带)4个测点的压力波数据,依据波谱分析方法对4个测点的入射波有效波高、长重力有效波高、有效波陡、波面谱、谱宽度和谱尖度参量进行了统计和对比分析.分析认为,在近岸有限水深条件下,波浪由近岸(相对水深0.201)到破、碎波带运动过程中,(1)长重力波有效波高呈增大趋势,至破、碎波带位置增幅最为明显;(2)入射波有效波高至破、碎波带区域达到最大,在破波带外有限水深区域呈现先增大后减小的变化趋势;(3)有效波陡、谱宽度参数呈增大趋势;(4)波浪内部能量向高、低频段发生转移,至破、碎波带区域转移程度最为明显,在峰值频率的高、低频段形成谱峰;长重力波谱强度在破、碎波带区域明显高于对应有限水深测点. 相似文献
3.
利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,以比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系.分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用. 相似文献
4.
利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,对比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系。分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用。 相似文献
5.
粤东后江湾涨落潮下的碎波带波能与滩面地形时空变化分析 总被引：6，自引：1，他引：5
利用涌浪和处于陡滩面、滩面下陡坎和深槽海滩地形条件下的海滩碎波带压力波和滩面地形资料,对碎波带中的入射总波能、长重力波能及两者比值随潮位涨落的变化关系,碎波带动力因子与滩面地形之间的作用关系及典型相关和多维偏交叉谱关系等作了初步分析。结果表明,碎波带中的入射总波能与潮位涨落呈现出一致的变化规律;而碎波带中的长重力波能变化与潮位涨落变化趋势相反;碎波带各动力因子、滩面潜水位和碎波带波浪、潮位及滩面地形引起的滩面陡坎处破波点位置变动等因素的耦合作用,对滩面向海发育和滩面地形变化有重要影响。 相似文献
6.
7.
长重力波运动与近岸过程研究综述 总被引：4，自引：1，他引：3
简要介绍了长重力波的概念和作用,概述了近岸长重力波的运动形式、类型、分布和波能变化,分析了近岸长重力波与泥沙运动、海岸侵蚀、近岸环流系统、海滩碎波带地貌形态和潮汐等的关系,提出了进一步研究的几点建议。 相似文献
8.
9.
近岸带三组成波耦合作用的观测与分析 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用近岸带两个测点的波浪同步观测资料，通过二阶谱分析了三组成波的非线性相互作用。对波谱峰频自相互作用的二阶相干系数b^2(fp，fp）及对应的二阶位相值β(fp，fp)、最大二阶谱幅值B最大(f1，f2)和最大二阶相干系数b^2最大(f1，f2)的组成波频率分析结果表明：(1)弱频散作用的过渡水深区存在着明显的非共振三组成波耦合作用；(2)包括谱峰频在内的自相互作用是近岸区波耦合作用的重要形式；(3)随着水深减小，趋近碎波带，非线性耦合作用进一步增强，谱能量以向低频转移为主变为向高、低频两侧转移，波形趋于前倾。 相似文献
10.
山东半岛一次中β尺度暴雨的数值模拟分析 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
利用NCAR/PSU的中尺度大气非静力模式MM5,对2004年8月5日发生在山东半岛的1次中β尺度暴雨过程进行了数值模拟和分析.将模拟的位势高度场、风场、降水与实况进行对比分析,在模拟结果比较合理的情况下,着重对发生暴雨的动力学机制进行了分析.结果表明：黄海中部高能区和副高边缘的高比湿带的维持造成对流不稳定,类似“干线”的特征有利于储存对流不稳定能量.在850hPa散度场上,山东半岛存在辐合辐散交替出现的链式分布,这揭示了重力波的存在;沿辐合辐散交替出现中心连线,作涡度、散度的垂直剖面,显示出重力波的垂直结构特征;重力波过程对暴雨天气的发生、发展有触发、组织和加强作用,天气尺度切变线辐合加强对重力波有激发作用. 相似文献
11.
This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding of infragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave parameters and pressure inside and outside of the surf zone during the dry and rainy period in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar (both dissipative and eroded beaches) located in the Colombian Caribbean coast. Based on these measurements, we have carried out a spectral analysis in order to identify the frequency components that characterize the wave and its energy; thus, we identified the characteristic frequencies of infragravity waves to finally filter the infragravity signal on each beach in different seasonal periods. Among the results of the Welch spectrum applied to surface elevation time series, we found that, the frequencies'' energy of the sea-swell band decreases due to bottom friction and wave breaking as the wave approaches the shore, while the frequencies'' energy of the infragravity band increases significantly. In addition, for the wavelet analysis, we could observe how the energy of the infragravity band, especially the lowest frequencies gain energy as the waves approaches the coast. Furthermore, based on the infragravity wave obtained from the extreme wave event registered during the field campaign we can conclude that the contribution of this signal is important in the erosion problems presented in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar. Finally, these results show the need to realize other studies that allow us to understand deeply, the role of infragravity waves on the morphological changes that occurs in these beaches. 相似文献
12.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(6):497-511
A weakly non-linear Boussinesq model with a slot-type shoreline boundary is used to simulate swash oscillations on beaches. Numerical simulations of swash were compared with laboratory measurements and in general good agreement found (less than 15% root-mean-square error of surface elevation except in regular waves). A series of numerical experiments on shoreline movement were then performed for a range of beach slopes and incident wave conditions. The resulting swash characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and spectral properties. On steep slopes, both individual bores and infragravity waves are equally significant in driving the swash while infragravity waves alone drive them on mild slopes. Swash excursions on any given slope are found to be highest when individual bores from a partially saturated surf zone ride on top of low-frequency waves. This is confirmed by the relationship found between swash excursion and wave groupiness in the surf zone. Swash excursions increase with increasing incident wave energy, even in fully saturated surf zones. However, a poor correlation is found between swash excursion and the surf similarity parameter due to the involvement of infragravity wave energy in the swash. 相似文献
13.
Time-series of nearbed horizontal flow velocities and suspended sediment concentrations obtained from a colocated electromagnetic current meter (EMCM) and optical backscatter sensor (OBS), respectively, are used to examine the relative importance of steady and fluctuating components to the total sediment transport over a full tidal cycle on a macrotidal, intermediate beach (Spurn Head, UK). Fluctuating sediment fluxes are decomposed into gravity and infragravity contributions using co-spectral techniques. The relative importance of the oscillatory (gravity and infragravity) and steady (mean) transport components to the total sediment transport is analysed throughout the tidal cycle.
A continuum of 34 discrete suspended sediment-cross-shore velocity co-spectra are computed over a full tidal cycle for the OBS and EMCM measurements 0.10 m above the bed. These net transport spectra vary greatly both with cross-shore location and tidal state. In particular, a marked asymmetry in transport processes is evident between the flood and ebb tides, with high levels of sediment resuspension and transport occurring on the ebbing tide approximately two hours after high water (just seaward of the breakpoint). At this time the dominant transport was directed offshore (co-spectral peak, 0.04 kg/m2/s) at incident wave frequency.
Typical patterns are observed in transport spectra outside the surf zone and within the inner surf zone. Outside the narrow surf zone cross-shore transport spectra show weak offshore transport (co-spectral peak = 0.002 kg/m2/s) associated with bound long waves and stronger onshore transport (co-spectral peak = 0.006 kg/m2/s) at incident wave frequencies. Conversely, co-spectra computed within the inner surf zone show the offshore sediment fluxes (spectral peak = 0.010 kg/m2/s) at infragravity frequencies to be greater in magnitude than the corresponding onshore transport (co-spectral peak = 0.008 kg/m2/s) occurring at incident wave frequencies. 相似文献
14.
Experiments are carried out in a wave basin in order to study the swash–groundwater interaction. A set of wave gages and pressure sensors are used to monitor the free surface and groundwater dynamics. The study is based on the comparison of two selected cases which differ by the gravity and infragravity forcing conditions, the features of wave breaking in the surf zone, the presence of a standing wave attached to the beach face and the wave setup at the shoreline. Significant differences are observed in the response of the swash–groundwater system. The water table overheight appears to be controlled by the amount of infragravity energy available at the shore. Cyclic beach drainage processes can be observed when the water table is low. Significant time-averaged and time-resolved flows are observed into the sand, depending on the swash hydrodynamics. The presence of a gravity standing wave modulation attached to the shore is shown to affect swash and groundwater dynamics. Most of the pressure gradients observed under the swash zone are related to infiltration flows and are thus related to moderate increase of the sediment relative weight. 相似文献
15.
A.J.H.M. Reniers M.J. Groenewegen K.C. Ewans S. Masterton G.S. Stelling J. Meek 《Coastal Engineering》2010
The accuracy of nearshore infragravity wave height model predictions has been investigated using a combination of the spectral short wave evolution model SWAN and a linear 1D SurfBeat model (IDSB). Data recorded by a wave rider located approximately 3.5 km from the coast at 18 m water depth have been used to construct the short wave frequency-directional spectra that are subsequently translated to approximately 8 m water depth with the third generation short wave model SWAN. Next the SWAN-computed frequency-directional spectra are used as input for IDSB to compute the infragravity response in the 0.01 Hz–0.05 Hz frequency range, generated by the transformation of the grouped short waves through the surf zone including bound long waves, leaky waves and edge waves at this depth. Comparison of the computed and measured infragravity waves in 8 m water depth shows an average skill of approximately 80%. Using data from a directional buoy located approximately 70 km offshore as input for the SWAN model results in an average infragravity prediction skill of 47%. This difference in skill is in a large part related to the under prediction of the short wave directional spreading by SWAN. Accounting for the spreading mismatch increases the skill to 70%. Directional analyses of the infragravity waves shows that outgoing infragravity wave heights at 8 m depth are generally over predicted during storm conditions suggesting that dissipation mechanisms in addition to bottom friction such as non-linear energy transfer and long wave breaking may be important. Provided that the infragravity wave reflection at the beach is close to unity and tidal water level modulations are modest, a relatively small computational effort allows for the generation of long-term infragravity data sets at intermediate water depths. These data can subsequently be analyzed to establish infragravity wave height design criteria for engineering facilities exposed to the open ocean, such as nearshore tanker offloading terminals at coastal locations. 相似文献
16.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(2-3):191-208
Rip currents are shore-normal, narrow, seaward-flowing currents that originate within surf zone, extend seaward of the breaking region (rip head), and can obtain relatively high velocities. Within the last decade, there have been a significant number of laboratory and field observations within rip current systems. An overview of rip current kinematics based on these observations and the scientific advances obtained from these efforts are synthesized. Rip current flows are partitioned into mean, infragravity, very low frequency (vorticity), and tidal contributions, and it is found that each contributes significantly to the total. Data from the laboratory and the field suggest that the rip current strength increases with increasing wave energy and decreasing water depths. The maximum mean current occurs inside the surf zone, where the maximum forcing is present owing to the dissipation of waves. 相似文献
17.
珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。 相似文献
18.
Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope. 相似文献