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1.
粤东后江湾近岸长重力波特征分析   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
利用粤东后江湾近岸有限水深(包括碎波带)4个测点的压力波数据,依据波谱分析方法对4个测点的入射波有效波高、长重力有效波高、有效波陡、波面谱、谱宽度和谱尖度参量进行了统计和对比分析.分析认为,在近岸有限水深条件下,波浪由近岸(相对水深0.201)到破、碎波带运动过程中,(1)长重力波有效波高呈增大趋势,至破、碎波带位置增幅最为明显;(2)入射波有效波高至破、碎波带区域达到最大,在破波带外有限水深区域呈现先增大后减小的变化趋势;(3)有效波陡、谱宽度参数呈增大趋势;(4)波浪内部能量向高、低频段发生转移,至破、碎波带区域转移程度最为明显,在峰值频率的高、低频段形成谱峰;长重力波谱强度在破、碎波带区域明显高于对应有限水深测点.  相似文献   

2.
岬间海湾滨面带波浪结构和外观统计特征   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
对中等波能条件下收集的粤东两个岬间海湾滨面带4个站点的波浪数据作了滨面带波面、波包和长重力波的基本特征的分析,得到如下主要结果:(1)滨面带波谱由多峰频构成,从海向岸波高增大,波周期减小,谱宽度加大,谱尖度减小;(2)入射波群性较强,表征入射波群性的相对均方根群高与谱宽度无关;(3)长波振幅与波浪能量增大,其形成主要与组成波间的非线性相互作用有关。  相似文献   

3.
韩晓鹏  宋金宝 《海洋科学》2015,39(12):150-156
基于Longuest-Higgins(1963)非线性海浪模型,在有限水深且存在均匀背景流的条件下,根据Song(2006)给出的波面位移二阶表达式,采用Combi海浪频谱计算了海表面定点波面位移时间序列和波面位移概率统计分布。分析了波面位移统计分布随风速、水深、反波龄和均匀背景流的变化特征和规律以及不同海况条件下二阶非线性项对波面位移统计分布的影响。结果表明:二阶非线性项使波面位移分布偏离正态分布,二阶非线性作用受风速、水深、反波龄和均匀背景流的影响。风速增大、水深降低、反波龄减小或者均匀背景流和风速传播方向相反均使波面位移二阶非线性项的作用加强,无因次波面位移概率密度分布的偏度和峰度随之增大,反之则二阶非线性项作用减弱。当均匀背景流和风速相同时,虽然使非线性项的作用减弱,但平均波面位移反而比静止水平面降低。当均匀背景流和风速相反时,虽然使非线性作用增强,但平均波面位移反而趋于静止水平面。得到如下结论:二阶非线性项对于波面位移有显著影响,数值模拟波面位移需要增加二阶非线性项。通过以上研究,提高了数值模拟波面位移的准确性,而波面位移是海浪最基本的特征量,从而增强了海浪模拟和预报的准确性,对海洋工程、海–气相互作用、上层海洋动力学等具有重要意义。  相似文献   

4.
利用大型水槽设计了在由深水到近岸不同坡度处海浪在变浅作用下诱导产生的长周期重力波的实验。正态随机海浪在深水生成并沿斜坡向浅水传播,记录了不同水深处波面高度随时间的变化过程并进行统计分析和谱分析。实验数据分析结果表明,长周期重力波的能量随着水深的变浅而增高,其谱锋频率位于0.2~0.3fp附近,这里fp是深水正态海浪过程的谱峰频率。长周期重力波的能量与入射波的能量比与波面高度分布的偏度密切相关。进一步分析了两种波动的能量谱峰值比和波面高度分布偏度的相关关系,获得了经验关系,为预测近岸浅水长周期重力波提供了科学依据。  相似文献   

5.
变水深对畸形波及其时频能量谱的影响   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
崔成  张宁川  郭传胜  房卓 《海洋学报》2011,33(6):173-179
使用VOF (volume of fluid)方法实现了变化水深条件下畸形波的数值模拟,使用小波分析方法计算模拟结果的时频能量谱,发现变化水深可以加强波浪的非线性相互作用,使转化到高频端的能量更多,产生了不对称程度更大的畸形波.  相似文献   

6.
南海北部陆坡海域内波谱特征   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
本文对1998年南海季风实验中定点观测的声学多普勒流速剖面仪(Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler,ADCP)海流数据进行频谱分析,结果表明南海北部地区内波之间的非线性作用的强弱影响着该海域的内波谱特征。在季节性温跃层(水深22m和58m)中,由于存在着强的非线性作用,内波带的谱斜率趋于σ^-1和σ^-2之间,而且较高能量的潮谐波频率的峰值随着频率呈现少见的一。递减。在季节性温跃层(水深130m)以下,内波非线性相互作用较弱,观测的内波带谱特征与标准Garrett-Munk内波谱相似,均显示了σ^-2的谱斜率。  相似文献   

7.
基于非线性模型的畸形波模拟及其时频能量谱研究   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
采用VOF(volume offluid)方法实现了畸形波的数值模拟.将数值结果与线性理论(方程(5))计算结果进行了对比,发现数值模拟结果更能够反映非线性特征.使用小波分析方法研究了畸形波的时频能量谱,发现形成畸形波的过程中存在很强的波浪非线性相互作用,使得波浪的能量向高频端转化.变水深地形可以加强波浪的非线性相互作用.使得转化到高频端的能量更多,产生畸形程度更大的畸形波.  相似文献   

8.
在海浪研究中,非线性能量传输Snl的概念虽早在60年代提出,但其重要性直至JONSWAP研究成果发表以后才得到证实.某些特征谱的非线性能量传输的数值计算结果,定性地描述了非线性能量传输Snl的主要特征:(1)由给定谱可得到非线性能量传输Snl的理论值.(2)非线性能量传输Snl有三个耳,两侧为正耳,中间为负耳;对充分成长的PM谱,低频正耳位于峰频率,对成长的JONSWAP谱,低频正耳位于峰频率左侧.(3)高频正耳较其它二个耳有较宽的方向分布.(4)低频正耳集中在窄的频带内,有比较窄的方向分布.(5)相互作用发生在波数空间的一个比较短的范围内,最强的能量传输速率相  相似文献   

9.
关于重力表面波非线性相互作用   总被引:3,自引:1,他引:3  
洪广文 《海洋学报》1980,2(2):158-180
本文利用小摄动法在作者以前求得的二阶近似解的基础上给出任意水深重力表面波非线性相互作用的四阶近似理论解(包括基本波系波数矢固定、频率摄动和波数矢、频率皆固定二种情况),并由此得四阶近似推进波,三向波及斜向波与直墙相互作用的理论解.  相似文献   

10.
为研究顺应式海洋平台慢漂运动的影响因素,以截断圆柱和漂浮方箱为例进行了不规则波作用下的慢漂运动模型试验。测量了不同系泊刚度条件下的漂浮方箱以及相同系泊刚度条件下的截断圆柱和漂浮方箱在静水中自由衰减运动和在不规则波中的运动响应,并将运动响应分解成一阶波频运动响应和二阶低频运动响应,分析了系泊刚度和浮体形状对浮体运动的影响。通过物理模型试验发现了系泊刚度及浮体形状对顺应式系泊浮体一阶运动标准差和二阶低频运动平均漂移值和标准差的关系。结果表明由于顺应式浮体的固有周期远离波浪谱峰周期时,系泊刚度以及浮体形状对慢漂运动的一阶运动响应影响不大;二阶低频运动相对偏离平衡位置的平均值和标准差均随系泊刚度增大而减小,浮体形状同样对慢漂运动的二阶低频纵荡运动响应影响较大。试验结果为实际海洋工程的外形选择和系泊刚度选择提供数据支持。  相似文献   

11.
This article reviews information recently available from existing marine and coastal mining for responses to environmental issues affecting marine mining at different depths. It is particularly but not exclusively concerned with those issues affecting seabed biodiversity impact and recovery. Much information has been gathered in the past 10 years from shallow mining operations for construction aggregate, diamonds, and gold, from coastal mines discharging tailings to shallow and deep water, and from experimental deep mining tests. The responses to issues identified are summarized in a series of eight tables intended to facilitate site-specific consideration. Since impacts can spread widely in the surface mixing layer SML, and can affect the biologically productive euphotic zone, the main issues considered arise from the depth of mining relative to the SML of the sea. Where mining is below the SML, the issue is whether it is environmentally better to bring the extraction products to the surface vessel for processing (and waste discharge), or to process the extraction products as much as possible on the seabed. Responses to the issues need to be sitespecific, and dependent on adequate preoperational environmental impact and recovery prediction. For deep tailings disposal from a surface vessel, there are four important environmental unknowns: (1) the possible growth of "marine snow" (bacterial flocs) utilizing the enormous quantities of fine tailings particles (hundreds or thousands of metric tons per day) as nuclei for growth, (2) the possibility that local keystone plankton and nekton species may migrate diurnally down to and beyond the depth of deep discharge and hence be subjected to tailings impact at depth, (3) the burrow-up capability of deep benthos and their ability to survive high rates of tailings deposition, and (4) the pattern and rate of dispersion of a tailings density current through the deep water column from discharge point to seabed. Actions to obtain relevant information in general and site-specifically are suggested.  相似文献   

12.
Particle fluxes were measured 7 m above the sea bottom during the predisturbance, disturbance, and postdisturbance periods by using time series sediment traps attached to seven deep-sea moorings deployed in the INDEX experiment site in the Central Indian Basin. The predisturbance particle fluxes varied between 22.3 to 55.1 mg m -2 day -1 . Increased and variable particle fluxes were recorded by the sediment traps during the disturbance period. The increase observed was 0.5 to 4 times more than the background predisturbance fluxes. The increases in particle fluxes (~4 times) recorded by the sediment trap located in the southwestern direction (DMS-1) were the greatest, which could be the result of preferential movement of resuspended particles generated during the deep-sea benthic disturbance along the general current direction prevailing in this area during the experimental period. Also, the traps located closer to the disturbance area recorded greater fluxes than did the traps far away, across the Deep Sea Sediment Resuspension System path. This variability in recorded particle fluxes by the traps around the disturbance area clearly indicates that physical characteristics such as grain size and density of the resuspended particles produced during the disturbance had an important effect on particle movement. The postdisturbance measurements during ~5 days showed a reduction in particle fluxes of ~50%, indicating rapid particle settlement.  相似文献   

13.
The interdependence between the seismo-acoustic properties of a marine sediment and its geotechnical/physical parameters has been known for many years, and it has been postulated that this should allow the extraction of geotechnical information from seismic data. Though in the literature many correlations have been published for the surficial layer, there is a lack of information for greater sediment depths. In this article, a desktop study on a synthetic seafloor model illustrates how the application of published near-surface prediction equations to subsurface sediments (up to several tens of meters burial depth) can lead to spurious predictions. To test this further, acoustic and geotechnical properties were measured on a number of sediment core samples, some of which were subjected to loading in acoustically-equipped consolidation cells (oedometers) to simulate greater burial depth conditions. For low effective pressures (representing small burial depths extending to around 10 meters subsurface), the general applicability of established relationships was confirmed: the prediction of porosity, bulk density, and mean grain size from acoustic velocity and impedance appears generally possible for the investigated sedimentary environments. As effective pressure increases through, the observed relationships deviate more and more from the established ones for the near-surface area. For the samples tested in this study, in some instances increasing pressure even resulted in decreasing velocities. There are several possible explanations for this abnormal behavior, including the presence of gas, overconsolidation, or bimodal grain size distribution. The results indicate that an appropriate depth correction must be introduced into the published prediction equations in order to obtain reliable estimates of physical sediment properties for greater subsurface depths.  相似文献   

14.
海上大直径钢管桩打桩过程中,桩周土体受到强烈扰动而发生强度弱化,掌握桩周土体强度弱化规律对于准确预测打桩过程、保证工程安全具有重要意义。为研究土体强度弱化规律,开展了环剪试验模拟打桩对桩周土体的扰动,测试土体强度随剪切速率的变化规律,建立了描述土体强度弱化规律的拟合公式,引入到打桩分析软件中。研究结果表明:土体的强度折减程度不仅与土体本身的性质有关还受到土体的埋深和剪切速率的影响,埋深越深土体强度折减程度越低,剪切速率越高土体强度折减越高,在打桩分析中可采用这里推荐的线性折减方法来模拟不同深度处土体强度的折减规律。  相似文献   

15.
The advanced piston corer (APC) has been used by the Ocean Drilling Program since 1985 for recovering soft sediments from the ocean floor. The pullout force measured on extracting the core barrel from the sediment is shown to correlate with the average shear strength of the sediment core measured in the ship's laboratory. A simple rule of thumb is derived relating the shear strength of the sediment to the pullout force. Multiple APC holes at individual sites allow the consistency of the pullout measurements to be assessed. The effects of different operational procedures during APC coring are also explored. Although generally applicable, the correlation between pullout force and laboratory measurements of shear strength breaks down for some APC holes, possibly because of the disturbance of some sediment types during the APC coring process. A better understanding of the physical process of APC coring, and its effect on the properties of the sediment both inside and immediately outside the core barrel, would indicate what confidence can be put on the measurement of pullout force as a way of evaluating the in situ shear strength of deep sea sediments.  相似文献   

16.
Specific properties of the interannual sea level variations and annual tides in the Northwestern Pacific were studied. Several tide stations were monitored. The monthly mean sea level for the year of 1995 was analyzed at each tide station. A seismic event in 1995, some tectonic activity around the subject area, and the Kuroshio (the oceanic western boundary current) may possibly contaminate results which would have occurred from the astronomical annual tide alone.  相似文献   

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《海洋学报(英文版)》2014,(11):161-F0003
<正>Acta Oceanologica Sinica(AOS)is a comprehensive academic journal edited by the Editorial Committee of Acta Oceanologica Sinica and is designed to provide a forum for important research papers of the marine scientific community which reflect the information on a worldwide basis.The journal publishes scholarly papers on marine science and technology,including physics,chemistry,biology,  相似文献   

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