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1.
Simulations from a numerical model address the impact of nearshore morphology on surf zone retention on, open coast, rip-channelled beaches exposed to shore-normal waves. In the model, rip channels are regularly spaced alongshore with a given spacing λ. For a given reference case bathymetry (λ= 200 m), rip current circulations retain floating material at a hourly rate R of about 80 % which is in line with most existing field and laboratory studies in similar settings. The influence of a surf zone rip-channel morphology on surf zone retention is evaluated by a number of morphologic parameters. Results show that rip spacing is important. The ratio of the surf zone width X s to rip spacing λ controls surf zone retention with R rapidly increasing with increasing X s /λ up to a threshold of about 1 above which R levels off to become asymptotic to 100 %. The impact of the presence of a rip head bar is profound but nonlinear. The onset of wave breaking across the rip head bar drives a weak seaward located circulation providing major pathways for surface water exiting the surf zone compartment. Additional simulations suggest that alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry are important. Patterns in the wave field enforced by wave refraction and potentially wave breaking across offshore bathymetric anomalies can provide a conduit for transporting floating material out of the surf zone and into the inner shelf region. This has major implications for surf zone flushing by inner-bar rips on multiple-barred beaches and on beaches facing bathymetric anomalies on the inner shelf.  相似文献   

2.
A new field-based parameterisation (‘shape function’) describing the distribution of cross-shore suspended sediment transport across a beach profile is presented. Time-averaged and depth-integrated suspended sediment fluxes were measured over 39 tides at Sennen Cove, Cornwall, UK, for a range of wave conditions (offshore significant wave heights 0.1–2.5 m). The suspended sediment flux data were heuristically separated into four transport components: (1) mean flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (2) oscillatory flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (3) onshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone and (4) offshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone. Each of these transport components was related to the local water depth (h) normalised by the breakpoint depth (hb) and the four resulting suspended transport shape functions were combined to form a total suspended load shape function. Each shape function component is scaled independently by the wave energy level through hb. The total suspended load shape function predicts onshore sediment transport under low-energy conditions, with peaks at the breakpoint and in the swash zone, in agreement with the field observations. Under high-energy conditions the total suspended load shape function predicts onshore transport in the shoaling zone, offshore transport in the surf zone and onshore transport in the inner swash zone.  相似文献   

3.
We developed an index (MESH – Macroinvertebrates in Estonia: Score of Hydromorphology) to assess hydromorphological quality of Estonian surface waters based on macroinvertebrate taxonomic composition. The MESH is an average score based on the affinities of selected indicator taxa to flow velocity and bottom type. As both parameters were highly correlated (r = 0.65) indicator response to both parameters were combined. The list of MESH indicators includes 394 freshwater macroinvertebrate taxa derived from 3282 samples collected from rivers and lakes during 1985–2009. The indicators were selected out of 690 taxa, by applying the information-theoretical Kullback–Leibler divergence. The individual scores of macroinvertebrates range from 0 to 3, the higher scores indicating faster flow and/or solid bottom substrate. For standing waters, flow velocity was always considered zero. Among the reference waterbodies, mean MESH was the highest for small streams followed by middle streams, large streams, and lakes. In lakes with medium water hardness (the prevailing type in Estonia), the MESH decreased gradually from stony to muddy bottom. The highest MESH values for standing waters were observed in the stony surf zone of very large lakes (area > 100 km2). The lowest values occurred for small lakes with exceptional hydrochemical characteristics (soft- and darkwater, and calcareous types). Similarly, MESH indicated stream degradation by damming. Mean MESH in reservoirs with a muddy bottom was significantly lower than in reservoirs with a hard bottom, or in unregulated stream sections.  相似文献   

4.
This study is about use of spatially distributed rain in physically based hydrological models. In recent years, spatially distributed radar rainfall data have become available. The distributed radar rain is used to precisely model hydrologic processes and it is more realistic than the past practice of distribution methods like Thiessen polygons. Radar provides a highly accurate spatial distribution of rainfall and greatly improves the basin average rainfall estimates. However, quantification of the exact amount of rainfall from radar observation is relatively difficult. Thus, the fundamental idea of this study is to apply hourly gauge and radar rainfall data in a distributed hydrological model to simulate hydrological parameters. Hence the comparison is made between the outcomes of the WetSpa model from radar rainfall distribution and gauge rainfall distributed by the Thiessen polygon technique. The comparative plots of the hydrograph and the results of hydrological components such as evapotranspiration, surface runoff, soil moisture, recharge and interflow, reflect the spatially distributed radar input performing well for model outflow simulation.
EDITOR D. Koutsoyiannis

ASSOCIATE EDITOR F. Pappenberger  相似文献   

5.
Waves with a large incidence angle in deep water can drive a morphodynamic instability on a sandy coast whereby shoreline sand waves, cuspate forelands, and spits can emerge. This instability is related to bathymetric perturbations extending offshore in the shoaling zone. Here, we explore a different mechanism where the large incidence angle is supposed to occur at breaking and the bathymetric perturbations occur only in the surf zone. For wave incidence angles at breaking above ≈?45°, the one-line approximation of coastal dynamics predicts an unstable shoreline. This instability (EHAWI) is scale-free and the growth rate increases without bound for decreasing wavelength. Here we use a 2DH morphodynamic model resolving surf zone instabilities to investigate whether EHAWI could approximate a real instability in nature with a characteristic length scale. Assuming very idealized conditions on the bathymetric profile and sediment transport, we find a 2DH instability mode consisting of shore-oblique up-current bars coupled to a meandering of the longshore current. This mode grows for high-angle waves, above about 30° (offshore) and the maximum growth rate occurs for the angle maximizing the angle at breaking, about 70° (offshore). The dominant wavelength is of the order of the surf zone width. Interestingly, for long sand waves, the growth rate never becomes negative and it matches very well the anti-diffusive behavior of EHAWI. This distinguishes the present instability mode from other modes found in previous studies for other bathymetric and sediment transport conditions. Thus, we conclude that EHAWI approximates a real morphodynamic instability only for quite particular conditions. In such case, a characteristic length scale of the instability emerges thanks to surf zone processes that damp short wavelengths.  相似文献   

6.
There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in‐situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (Hs/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.2<Hs/ h<0.5) the nearshore circulation is characterized by a meandering alongshore current. As conditions became more dissipative (Hs/h>0.5), the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between the shoals before turning alongshore in the direction of wave advance outside the surf zone. The increase in wave dissipation is associated with an increase in very low frequency (VLF) variations in the current speed across the shoal and in the rip channel that caused the circulation to oscillate between an offshore and an alongshore flow. The unsteady nature of the nearshore circulation is responsible for 55% of all surf zone exits under these more dissipative conditions. In contrast, only 29% of the drifters released from the shoal exited the surf zone and bypassed the adjacent shoal with the alongshore‐meandering current. While the currents had a low velocity (maximum of ~0.4 m s‐1) and would not pose a significant hazard to the average swimmer, the results of this study suggest that the transverse bar and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low‐energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
Measurements of near-bed shear stress were undertaken in the shallow subtidal zone at Durras Beach, NSW, Australia using a sideways-looking acoustic velocity meter installed within the wave boundary layer. The wave climate was swell-dominated and wave conditions comprised shoaling and breaking waves as well as surf bores. The sediment at the field site was medium-grained sand, and observations of bedform geometry were conducted using a pencilbeam-sonar system. Using frequency-filtering techniques, the measured stresses were partitioned into terms representing turbulent (Reynolds) stress, stresses due to gravity and infragravity-scale oscillatory motions, and wave-turbulence-mean current cross-terms. Gravity wave-orbital scale motions contributed the largest fraction of the stresses, comprising 24% on average, followed by long-wave advection of vertical orbital motion (16%). The presence of wave orbital-scale motions near or at the water/sediment interface was likely due to the porous nature of the seabed, facilitating interfacial flow. Shear stresses did not scale with bed roughness but exhibited a linear relationship with the relative wave height. This indicates that for the experimental conditions, surf zone processes overwhelmed bed roughness effects on shear stress and friction. Calculations of the wave friction factor, fw, showed that in a natural surf zone, this was a factor 3–4 larger than conventional predictions. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

8.
A field experiment designed to investigate the influence of wave breaking on suspended-sediment transport was conducted at Duck, NC, from 6 to 9 September 1985. Arrays of optical backscatter sensors, electromagnetic current meters and pressure sensors were deployed at five positions on a shore-normal transect that spanned the surf zone. At each position measurements were made of cross-shore and longshore velocity, sea-surface fluctuations, and suspended sediment at five levels above the bed. Experimental data runs were conducted when incident swell waves ( Hs = 0.5m, T= 10–12s) broke (primarily plunging) within the experimental transect. This paper describes the spatial characteristics of the plunge-to-bore tranformation region and describes (1) the cross-shore variability of sediment resuspension, including the mean concentrations and mean suspended load; (2) the net longshore and cross-shore flux across the surf zone; (3) mean suspended-sediment profiles as a function of wave type, e.g. plunging, spilling and bore, and unbroken at four positions across the surf zone; and (4) discusses the relative contribution of each wave type to the net longshore and cross-shore sediment flux.  相似文献   

9.
Field measurements of wave ripples and megaripples were made with a Sand Ripple Profiler in the surf and shoaling zones of a sandy macrotidal dissipative beach at Perranporth, UK in depths 1–6 m and significant wave heights up to 2.2 m. A frequency domain partitioning approach allowed quantification of height (η), length (λ) and migration rate of ripples and megaripples. Wave ripples with heights up to 2 cm and wavelengths ～20 cm developed in low orbital velocity conditions (u m?<?0.65 m/s) with mobility number ψ?<?25. Wave ripple heights decreased with increasing orbital velocity and were flattened when mean currents were >0.1 m/s. Wave ripples were superimposed on top of megaripples (η?=?10 cm, λ?=?1 m) and contributed up to 35 % of the total bed roughness. Large megaripples with heights up to 30 cm and lengths 1–1.8 m developed when the orbital velocity was 0.5–0.8 m/s, corresponding to mobility numbers 25–50. Megaripple heights and wavelengths increased with orbital velocity but reduced when mean current strengths were >0.15 m/s. Wave ripple and megaripple migrations were generally onshore directed in the shoaling and surf zones. Onshore ripple migration rates increased with onshore-directed (+ve) incident wave skewness. The onshore migration rate reduced as offshore-directed mean flows (undertow) increased in strength and reached zero when the offshore-directed mean flow was >0.15 m/s. The migration pattern was therefore linked to cross-shore position relative to the surf zone, controlled by competition between onshore-directed velocity skewness and offshore-directed mean flow.  相似文献   

10.
Multiple intertidal bars are common features of wave‐dominated sandy beaches, yet their short‐term (<1 month) and small‐scale (<1 km) morphology and dynamics remain poorly understood. This study describes the morphodynamics of multiple intertidal bars in North Lincolnshire, England, during single and lunar tidal cycles under two contrasting conditions – first when significant wave height was <0·5 m and second when significant wave height frequently exceeded 1 m. The relative importance of swash, surf and shoaling processes in determining morphological change was examined using detailed field observations and a numerical model. The beach featured four intertidal bars and both cross‐shore and longshore bar morphology evolved during the field investigation, particularly under medium to high wave‐energy conditions. Numerical modelling suggests shoaling processes are most common on the seaward two bars under calm wave conditions (Hs < 0·5 m) and that surf zone processes become more common during neap tides and under more energetic (Hs < 0·5 m) conditions. Surf processes dominate the inner two bars, though swash influence increases in a landward direction. The numerical modelling results combined with low tide survey data and high‐resolution morphological measurements strongly suggest changes in the intertidal bar morphology are accomplished by surf zone processes rather than by shoaling wave or swash processes. This is because shoaling waves do not induce significant sediment transport to have any morphological effect, whereas swash action generally does not have enough scope to act as the swash zone is much narrower than the surf zone. It was found, however, that the absolute rate of morphological change under swash action and surfzone processes are of similar magnitudes and that swash action may induce a significant amount of local morphological change when the high tide mark is located on the upper bar, making this process important for bar morphodynamics. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
Zusammenfassung Für den in der Brandungszone unter dem Einfluß der Brandungsenergie und der Brandungsströmungen küstenparallel verlaufenden Materialstrom wird unter Verwendung integraler Größen die Bilanzgleichung aufgestellt. Es zeigt sich, daß der Materialstrom und damit die An- und Ablandung längs der Küste eindeutig durch die Verteilung der Brandungsenergie und die Größe der Brandungsströmung bestimmt wird. Anhand von fünf Beispielen werden die Anwendung der Methode erläutert und typische Vorgänge an der Küste erklärt.
The balance of littoral transport in the surf zone
Summary By means of integrals the balance equation is set up for the drift of material which under the influence of the surf energy and the longshore current in the surf zone is flowing parallel to the coast. This equation plainly represents the material drift and, hence, accretion and erosion along the coast as a function of the distribution of the surf energy and the strength of the longshore current. Finally, five examples are presented showing how to apply the method and explaining typical shore processes.
Le bilan du transport des matériaux le long de la côte dans la zone du déferlement
Résumé Au moyen d'intégrales on a établi l'équation de bilan pour le courant des matériaux qui, sous l'influence de l'énergie et des courants de déferlement, est dirigé en sens parallèle à la côte dans la zone du déferlement. Cette équation représente nettement les courants des matériaux dirigés vers le large et vers la plage en fonction de la répartition de l'énergie et de la puissance du courant de déferlement. Enfin, cinq exemples sont présentés pour exposer l'application de la méthode et pour expliquer des procès typiques rencontrés sur les côtes.
  相似文献   

12.
The BP MC252 well failure in the Gulf of Mexico, April 2010 caused concern for crude oil and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon (PAHs) exposure along the sandy beaches of the Florida Panhandle. We began collections of Coquina clams (Donax spp.) from the surf zone of Florida Panhandle beaches to monitor PAH contamination to compliment analysis of surf zone sand samples. These clams had higher levels of PAHs relative to ambient sand, and this allowed us to continue to monitor PAH levels after sand concentrations fell below limits of detection. PAH levels in the Coquina tissues were highly variable, perhaps indicative of the heterogeneous distribution of oil and tar on the beaches and exposure to tar particles. Overall, PAH levels decreased continuously in both sand and Coquina tissues, reaching limits of detection within one and two years respectively after oil landed on Florida Panhandle beaches. Our work suggests these surf zone molluscs may be used to monitor pollutant exposure along high energy sandy beach shorelines.  相似文献   

13.
Wave breaking and wave runup/rundown have a major influence on nearshore hydrodynamics, morphodynamics and beach evolution. In the case of wave breaking, there is significant mixing of air and water at the wave crest, along with relatively high kinetic energy, so prediction of the free surface is complicated. Most hydrodynamic studies of surf and swash zone are derived from single-phase flow, in which the role of air is ignored. Two-phase flow modeling, consisting of both phases of water and air, may be a good alternative numerical modeling approach for simulating nearshore hydrodynamics and, consequently, sediment transport. A two-phase flow tool can compute more realistically the shape of the free surface, while the effects of air are accounted for. This paper used models based on two-dimensional, two-phase Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations, the volume-of-fluid surface capturing technique and different turbulence closure models, i.e., k–ε, k–ω and re-normalized group (RNG). Our numerical results were compared with the available experimental data. Comparison of the employed method with a model not utilizing a two-phase flow modeling demonstrates that including the air phase leads to improvement in simulation of wave characteristics, especially in the vicinity of the breaking point. The numerical results revealed that the RNG turbulence model yielded better predictions of nearshore zone hydrodynamics, although the k–ε model also gave satisfactory predictions. The model provides new insights for the wave, turbulence and means flow structure in the surf and swash zones.  相似文献   

14.
A two-dimensional numerical model was presented for the simulation of wave breaking, runup and turbulence in the surf and swash zones. The main components of the model are the Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes equations describing the average motion of a turbulent flow, a k–ε turbulence closure model describing the transformation and dissipation processes of turbulence and a volume of fluid technique for tracking the free surface motion. Nearshore wave evolution on a sloping bed, the velocity field and other wave characteristics were investigated. First, the results of the model were compared with experimental results for different surf zone hydrodynamic conditions. Spilling and plunging breakers were simulated and the numerical model investigated for different wave parameters. The turbulence field was also considered and the spatial and time-dependent variations of turbulence parameters were discussed. In the next stage of the study, numerical results were compared with two sets of experimental data in the swash zone. Generally, there is good agreement except for turbulence predictions near the breaking point where the model does not represent well the physical processes. On the other hand, turbulence predictions were found to be excellent for the swash zone. The model provides a precise and efficient tool for the simulation of the flow field and wave transformations in the nearshore, especially in the swash zone. The numerical model can simulate the surface elevation of the vertical shoreline excursion on sloping beaches, while swash–swash interactions within the swash zone are accounted for.  相似文献   

15.
The dispersion of inertial particles continuously emitted from a point source is analytically investigated in the limit of small but finite inertia. Our focus is on the evolution equation of the particle joint probability density function p(x,?v,?t), x and v being the particle position and velocity, respectively. For arbitrary inertia, position and velocity variables are coupled, with the result that p(x,?v,?t) can be determined by solving a partial differential equation in a 2d-dimensional space, d being the physical-space dimensionality. For small (but nevertheless finite) inertia, (x,?v)-variables decouple and the determination of p(x,?v,?t) is reduced to solve a system of two standard forced advection–diffusion equations in the space variables x. The latter equations are derived here from first principles, i.e., from the well-known Lagrangian evolution equations for position and particle velocity.  相似文献   

16.
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m3/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m3/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
In order to learn more about the nature of the dynamic processes taking place in the West Bohemia/Vogtland earthquake swarm region, we investigated the temporal and spatial variations of the source mechanisms of the January 1997 swarm beneath Nový Kostel (NKC). Visual analyses of WEBNET seismograms of over 800 events revealed that a specific feature of this swarm was the occurrence of eight classes of multiplet events. The result of single-source, absolute moment tensor inversion of the P and SH peak amplitudes of a subset of 70 events representing all multiplet classes indicated that eight statistically significant types of mechanisms occurred during the swarm. Two of them, types A and B in our denotation, comprised all M L 1.3 events and predominated in the swarm. Type A were pure strike-slip mechanisms or strike-slip mechanisms containing a small normal component, with a nearly pure double-couple source. For class B events, oblique-thrust faulting and non-double-couple components significant at a fairly high confidence level were typical. Type A events predominated in the southern subcluster of the swarm, whereas most of type B events occurred in the subcluster northwards from NKC. This indicates that two major seismogenic planes were active during the swarm. The swarm essentially developed in four phases: in the first, type A events prevailed and the southern plane was active; during the second, characterised by the occurrence of both type A and B events (the former in the southern, the latter predominantly in the northern subcluster), the activity of the swarm culminated; in the third and fourth, the occurrence of type B events in the northern plane predominated, and only weak single events occurred southwards from NKC. Mechanisms of types AB , C , D , E , F and G , which were typical for M L 1.2 events, occurred randomly throughout the swarm. Type AB events were identified in both the southern and northern clusters, type C , E , F and G mechanisms only southwards from NKC. Type D events exhibited a large scatter of hypocentres which fell in neither the southern nor the northern cluster. Focal mechanisms like those reported in this study and with analogous temporal and spatial variations were observed by other authors already fifteen years ago in the 1985/86 earthquake swarm and may, therefore, be typical for the region under study.  相似文献   

18.
: An experimental study was carried out to investigate the resuspension of particles by a momentum jet discharging from below into a conical basin. The work was motivated by its relevance to Lake Banyoles, where sediments are suspended in different conical basins by bottom jets fed by a groundwater karstic system. Two different flow regimes were identified: a "Jet Flow" regime (JF) and a "Lutocline Flow" regime (LF). In the LF regime, the particles were resuspended, forming a well-established interface along the entire cross-sectional ara of the cone. This regime occurs when the particle Reynolds number Rep = (u-ws)dp/ n {\bf Re_p = (u-w_s)d_p/ \nu} where u is the mean velocity of the flow at the jet entry, ws is the settling velocity of particles, dp is the diameter of that particles and n {\bf \nu} is the kinematic viscosity of water) is below a critical number Rec that depends on the slope of the basin. The maximum height to which particles rise in the LF regime was also determined as a function of four non-dimensional variables: D1 = ho/(Mo1/2/ws), D2 = ho/dp, Rep and tan  b {\bf tan \, \beta} (where ho is the height of the particle bed, Mo is the kinematic momentum flux of the jet and tan  b {\bf tan \, \beta} is the slope of the basin). Application of the results to the basins of Lake Banyoles showed a good agreement provided that the aggregate properties of the suspensions are used. It is also shown that, in the LF regime, inflows to the basins can be estimated by a simple technique based on a balance between the sedimentation flux and the upward advection of sediments by the mean flow.  相似文献   

19.
The reflection/transmission laws (R/T laws) of plane waves at a plane interface between two homogeneous anisotropic viscoelastic (dissipative) halfspaces are discussed. Algorithms for determining the slowness vectors of reflected/transmitted plane waves from the known slowness vector of the incident wave are proposed. In viscoelastic media, the slowness vectors of plane waves are complex-valued, p = P + iA, where P is the propagation vector, and A the attenuation vector. The proposed algorithms may be applied to bulk plane waves (A = 0), homogeneous plane waves (A ≠ 0, P and A parallel), and inhomogeneous plane waves (A ≠ 0, P and A non-parallel). The manner, in which the slowness vector is specified, plays an important role in the algorithms. For unrestricted anisotropy and viscoelasticity, the algorithms require an algebraic equation of the sixth degree to be solved in each halfspace. The degree of the algebraic equation decreases to four or two for simpler cases (isotropic media, plane waves in symmetry planes of anisotropic media). The physical consequences of the proposed algorithms are discussed in detail. vcerveny@seis.karlov.mff.cuni.cz  相似文献   

20.
Summary Over 85% of the harmonic components of the tide along the west coast of Mexico have amplitudes smaller than 2 cm. Yet they are fully resolvable from the noise back-ground so that cotidal charts could be drawn for minor components such asQ 1 andT 2 . A cotidal chart forS 1 ist also presented; the presence of this component is attributed not to the tidal forces but to some irregularity in the shape of the Earth or in the distribution of its mass. Third order effects of a magnitude of 1 to 9 mm are evident in the semidiurnal band; they actually exceed the second order input at some stations. The presence of compound harmonics of nonlinear origin, such as2MK 2 ,MOK 2 andNK 3 is also detectable.
Über einige sehr kleine harmonische Konstanten, die in den Gezeiten des Pazifiks vorkommen
Zusammenfassung Über 85% der harmonischen Komponenten entlang der Westküste von Mexiko haben Amplituden kleiner als 2 cm. Dennoch sind sie vollständig aus dem Hintergrundrauschen herauszufiltern, so daß für kleinere Komponenten wieQ 1 undT 2 Karten der Linien gleicher Amplitude und Phase gezeichnet werden können. FürS 1 wird ebenfalls eine solche Karte dargestellt. Das Vorhandensein dieser Komponente ist nicht auf die Gezeitenkräfte zurückzuführen, sondern auf Unregelmäßigkeiten in der Gestalt der Erde oder in der Verteilung ihrer Masse. Effekte dritter Ordnung in einer Größe von 1 bis 9 mm sind offensichtlich in halbtägigen Gezeiten enthalten. Sie übersteigen sogar die der zweiten Ordnung an einigen Stationen. Das Vorhandensein von Verbundtiden nichtlinearen Ursprungs wie2MK 2 ,MOK 2 undNK 3 ist ebenfalls erkennbar.
Propos sur les très petites constantes harmoniques perceptibles dans les marées du Pacifique
Résumé Plus de 85% des composantes de la marée, le long de la côte occidentale du Mexique, ont une amplitude qui n'excède pas 2 cm. Néanmoins, elles émergent clairement du bruit de fond, ce qui permet même d'en tracer des cartes cotidales, soient celles deQ 1 ouT 2 par exemple. Nous présentons aussi une telle carte pourS 1 : nous attribuons son existence non à la force de marée, mais plutôt à quelque déformité dans la géoide ou dans la distribution de sa masse. Des effets de troisième ordre, de 1 à 9 mm d'envergure, sont manifestes dans la bande semidiurne; en fait ils dépassent la contribution du deuxième ordre en certains endroits. Des composantes d'origine non linéaire, comme2MK 2 ,MOK 2 etNK 3 , se descernent aussi.
  相似文献   

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