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1.
A new field-based parameterisation (‘shape function’) describing the distribution of cross-shore suspended sediment transport across a beach profile is presented. Time-averaged and depth-integrated suspended sediment fluxes were measured over 39 tides at Sennen Cove, Cornwall, UK, for a range of wave conditions (offshore significant wave heights 0.1–2.5 m). The suspended sediment flux data were heuristically separated into four transport components: (1) mean flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (2) oscillatory flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (3) onshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone and (4) offshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone. Each of these transport components was related to the local water depth (h) normalised by the breakpoint depth (hb) and the four resulting suspended transport shape functions were combined to form a total suspended load shape function. Each shape function component is scaled independently by the wave energy level through hb. The total suspended load shape function predicts onshore sediment transport under low-energy conditions, with peaks at the breakpoint and in the swash zone, in agreement with the field observations. Under high-energy conditions the total suspended load shape function predicts onshore transport in the shoaling zone, offshore transport in the surf zone and onshore transport in the inner swash zone.  相似文献   

2.
This paper reports on a wave flume experimental campaign carried out to investigate the appearance, the growth and the migration of small scale bedforms on a sloping sandy bed due to both regular and random waves. A Vectrino Profiler along with a structured light approach were used for velocity and morphodynamic measurements at two positions, one located above the horizontal bed, and the other one above the sloping beach. The velocity was computed by phase averaging the velocity measurements. Several velocity profiles were analyzed, identifying an offshore-directed steady current that extends from few centimeters above the bottom for all the analyzed water column. Ripple geometry was measured by a structured light approach and compared with that predicted by several models to shed light on the effects induced by the sloping beach on the shape and asymmetry. Along the sloping beach, the ripples appeared strongly asymmetric with the onshore half wavelengths smaller than the offshore ones. Finally, ripple geometry and migration triggered by regular waves were compared with those generated by random waves with comparable flow orbital amplitude showing a good agreement.  相似文献   

3.
Wave-induced, steep vortex ripples are ubiquitous features in shallow coastal seas and it is therefore important to fully understand and model the sediment transport processes that occur over them. To this end, two two-dimensional vertical (2DV) models have been critically tested against detailed velocity and sediment concentration measurements above mobile ripples in regular asymmetric oscillatory flow. The two models are a k–ω turbulence-closure model and a discrete-vortex, particle-tracking (DVPT) model, while the data are obtained in the Aberdeen oscillatory flow tunnel (AOFT). The models and the data demonstrate that the time-dependent velocity and suspended sediment concentration above the ripple are dominated by the generation of lee-side vortices and their subsequent ejection at flow reversal. The DVPT model predicts the positions and strengths of the vortices reasonably well, but tends to overpredict the velocity close to the ripple surface. The k–ω model, on the other hand, underpredicts the height to which the vortices are lifted, but is better able to predict the velocity close to the bed. In terms of the cycle- and ripple-averaged horizontal velocity, both models are able to reproduce the observed offshore flow close to and below the ripple crest and the DVPT model is able to produce the onshore flow higher up. In the vicinity of the vortices, the DVPT model better represents the concentration (because of its better prediction of vorticity). The k–ω model, on the other hand, better represents the concentration close to the ripple surface and higher up in the flow (because of the better representation of the near-bed flow and background turbulence). The measured and predicted cycle- and ripple-averaged suspended sediment concentrations are in reasonable agreement and demonstrate the expected region of exponential decay. The models are able to reproduce the observed offshore cycle- and ripple-averaged suspended sediment flux from the ripple troughs upwards, and as a result, produce net offshore suspended sediment transport rates that are in reasonable agreement. The net measured offshore suspended transport rate, based on the integration of fluxes, was found to be consistent with the total net offshore transport measured in the tunnel as a whole once the onshore transport resulting from ripple migration was taken into account, as would be expected. This demonstrates the importance of models being able to predict ripple-migration rates. However, at present neither of the models is able to do so.  相似文献   

4.
The Aquitanian Coast (France) is a high-energy meso-macrotidal environment exhibiting a highly variable double sandbar system. The inner and the outer bar generally exhibit a bar and rip morphology and persistent crescentic patterns, respectively. In June 2007, an intense five-day field experiment was carried out at Biscarrosse Beach. A large array of sensors was deployed on a well-developed southward-oriented bar and rip morphology. Daily topographic surveys were carried out together with video imaging to investigate beach morphodynamic evolution. During the experiment, offshore significant wave height ranged from 0.5 to 3 m, with a persistent shore-normal angle. This paper identifies two types of behavior of an observed rip current: (1) for low-energy waves, the rip current is active only between low and mid tide with maximum mean rip current velocity reaching 0.8 m/s for an offshore significant wave height (Hs) lower than 1 m; (2) for high-energy waves (Hs≈ 2.5–3 m), the rip current was active over the whole tide cycle with the presence of persistent intense offshore-directed flows between mid and high tide. For both low and high-energy waves, very low-frequency pulsations (15–30 min) of the mean currents are observed on both feeder and rip channels.A persistent slow shoreward migration of the sandbar was observed during the experiment while no significant alongshore migration of the system was measured. Onshore migration during the high-energy waves can be explained by different sediment transport processes such as flow velocity skewness, wave asymmetry or bed ventilation. High-frequency local measurements of the bed evolution show the presence of significant (in the order of 10 cm) fluctuations (in the order of 1 h). These fluctuations, observed for both low- and high-energy waves, are thought to be ripples and megaripples, respectively and may play an important but still poorly understood role in the larger scale morphodynamics. The present dataset improves the knowledge of rip dynamics as well as the morphological response of strongly alongshore non-uniform meso-macrotidal beaches.  相似文献   

5.
Ebb-tidal deltas are highly dynamic environments affected by both waves and currents that approach the coast under various angles. Among other bedforms of various scales, these hydrodynamics create small-scale bedforms (ripples), which increase the bed roughness and will therefore affect hydrodynamics and sediment transport. In morphodynamic models, sediment transport predictions depend on the roughness height, but the accuracy of these predictors has not been tested for field conditions with strongly mixed (wave–current dominated) forcing. In this study, small-scale bedforms were observed in the field with a 3D Profiling Sonar at five locations on the Ameland ebb-tidal delta, the Netherlands. Hydrodynamic conditions ranged from wave dominated to current dominated, but were mixed most of the time. Small-scale ripples were found on all studied parts of the delta, superimposed on megaripples. Even though a large range of hydrodynamic conditions was encountered, the spatio-temporal variations in small-scale ripple dimensions were relatively small (height 0.015 m, length 0.11 m). Also, the ripples were always highly three-dimensional. These small dimensions are probably caused by the fact that the bed consists of relatively fine sediment. Five bedform height predictors were tested, but they all overestimated the ripple heights, partly because they were not created for small grain sizes. Furthermore, the predictors all have a strong dependence on wave- and current-related velocities, whereas the ripple heights measured here were only related to the near-bed orbital velocity. Therefore, ripple heights and lengths in wave–current-dominated, fine-grained coastal areas ( mm) may be best estimated by constant values rather than values dependent on the hydrodynamics. In the case of the Ameland ebb-tidal delta, these values were found to be m and m. ©2019 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Multiple intertidal bars are common features of wave‐dominated sandy beaches, yet their short‐term (<1 month) and small‐scale (<1 km) morphology and dynamics remain poorly understood. This study describes the morphodynamics of multiple intertidal bars in North Lincolnshire, England, during single and lunar tidal cycles under two contrasting conditions – first when significant wave height was <0·5 m and second when significant wave height frequently exceeded 1 m. The relative importance of swash, surf and shoaling processes in determining morphological change was examined using detailed field observations and a numerical model. The beach featured four intertidal bars and both cross‐shore and longshore bar morphology evolved during the field investigation, particularly under medium to high wave‐energy conditions. Numerical modelling suggests shoaling processes are most common on the seaward two bars under calm wave conditions (Hs < 0·5 m) and that surf zone processes become more common during neap tides and under more energetic (Hs < 0·5 m) conditions. Surf processes dominate the inner two bars, though swash influence increases in a landward direction. The numerical modelling results combined with low tide survey data and high‐resolution morphological measurements strongly suggest changes in the intertidal bar morphology are accomplished by surf zone processes rather than by shoaling wave or swash processes. This is because shoaling waves do not induce significant sediment transport to have any morphological effect, whereas swash action generally does not have enough scope to act as the swash zone is much narrower than the surf zone. It was found, however, that the absolute rate of morphological change under swash action and surfzone processes are of similar magnitudes and that swash action may induce a significant amount of local morphological change when the high tide mark is located on the upper bar, making this process important for bar morphodynamics. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
The Bay of Biscay, located in the Northeast Atlantic Ocean, is exposed to energetic waves coming from the open ocean that have crucial effects on the coast. Knowledge of the wave climate and trends in this region are critical to better understand the last decade’s evolution of coastal hazards and morphology and to anticipate their potential future changes. This study aims to characterize the long-term trends of the present wave climate over the second half of the twentieth century in the Bay of Biscay through a robust and homogeneous intercomparison of five-wave datasets (Corrected ERA-40 (C-ERA-40), ECMWF Reanalysis Interim (ERA-Interim), Bay Of Biscay Wave Atlas (BOBWA-10kH), ANEMOC, and Bertin and Dodet 2010)). The comparison of the quality of the datasets against offshore and nearshore measurements reveals that at offshore locations, global reanalyses slightly underestimate wave heights, while regional hindcasts overestimate wave heights, especially for the highest quantiles. At coastal locations, BOBWA-10kH is the dataset that compares the best with observations. Concerning long time-scale features, the comparison highlights that the main significant trends are similarly present in the five datasets, especially during summer for which there is an increase of significant wave heights and mean wave periods (up to +15 cm and +0.6 s over the period 1970–2001) as well as a southerly shift of wave directions (around ?0.4° year?1). Over the same period, an increase of high quantiles of wave heights during the autumn season (around 3 cm year?1 for 90th quantile of significant wave heights (SWH90)) is also apparent. During winter, significant trends are much lower than during summer and autumn despite a slight increase of wave heights and periods during 1958–2001. These trends can be related to modifications in the wave-type occurrence. Finally, the trends common to the five datasets are discussed by analyzing the similarities with centennial trends issued from longer time-scale studies and exploring the various factors that could explain them.  相似文献   

8.
A field experiment conducted on a sandy barred beach, situated on the southern part of the French Atlantic coastline, allowed us to investigate the impact of the intertidal bar on the wave-energy dissipation on the beach face in presence of a high-energy long-incoming swell (significant wave height of about 1.7 to 3.0 m in 56 m water depth and significant wave period about 12 s). Data were collected along three parallel cross-shore transects deployed along an intertidal ridge and runnel system. Wave heights in the inner surf zone are depth-limited, consistent with previous works, and the wave-energy dissipation in the inner surf zone appears to be relatively independent of the offshore energy level. On the other hand, the presence of the bar seems to scatter the data. In models of surf-zone hydrodynamics, wave-energy dissipation is often parameterized in terms of , the ratio of the sea-swell significant wave height to the local mean water depth. The observed values of are not constant along a cross-shore transect, and increase onshore. Furthermore, the observed values observed onshore the intertidal bar are higher than those observed outside the influence of the intertidal bar, and this cannot be fully explained by the different local beach slope.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann  相似文献   

9.
A simplified process-based approach for evaluating onshore sandbar migration is presented in this study. This approach takes wave-averaged parameters as input and computes sediment transport processes using a reconstructed intra-wave orbital velocity signal. The proposed method guarantees good predictive skills for multiple onshore sandbar migration cases without an ad hoc calibration for each scenario. The study differs from previous onshore sandbar migration models, where calibration and testing are performed on just one or few events, and model assessment for uncalibrated realizations is rarely carried out. The present version of the model only addresses onshore sandbar migrations. For the onshore migration cases analyzed, the model has better predictive skills than state-of-the-art morphodynamic models (XBeach and Unibest-TC).  相似文献   

10.
This article introduces the SVG (salt‐velocity gauge), a novel automated technique for measuring flow velocity by means of salt tracing. SVG allows a high measuring rate (up to one every 2 seconds), short control section length (down to 10 cm), high accuracy (+[sol ]?1·5 cm s?1), and unbiased calculation of the mean velocity in experimental conditions with turbulent, supercritical flow. A few cubic centimetres of saturated salt solution (NaCl) are injected into the flow at regular time intervals using a programmable solenoid valve. The tracer successively passes two conductivity probes placed a short distance downstream. The transformation of the signal between the two probes is modelled as a one‐dimensional diffusion wave equation. Model calibration gives an estimation of the mean velocity and the diffusion for each salt plume. Two implementations of the SVG technique are described. The first was an outdoors simulated rainfall experiment in Senegal (conductivity probes at 40 cm apart, 8 Hz measurement rate, salt injections at 10 second intervals). Mean velocity was estimated to range between 0·1 and 0·3 m s?1. The second was a laboratory‐based flume experiment (conductivity probes at 10 cm apart, 32 Hz, salt injections at 2 second intervals). Another SVG with probes at 34 cm apart was used for comparison. An acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV) was also used to give an independent assessment of velocity. Using the 10 cm salt gauge, estimated mean velocity ranged from 0·6 to 0·9 m s?1 with a standard deviation of 1·5 cm s?1. Comparisons between ADV, 10 cm SVG and 34 cm SVG were consistent and demonstrated that the salt‐tracing results were unbiased and independent of distance between probes. Most peaks were modelled with r2 > 90 per cent. The SVG technology offers an alternative to the dye‐tracing technique, which has been severely criticized in the literature because of the wide interval of recommended values for the correction factor α to be applied to the timings. This article demonstrates that a fixed value of α is inappropriate, since the correction factor varies with velocity, diffusion and the length of the control section. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
This paper examines the processes responsible for the morphodynamics of an intertidal swash bar at Skallingen, Denmark, during seven successive storms (one with a large surge of +3·02 m DNN). During this period a subtidal bar migrated landward onto the foreshore and continued to migrate across the intertidal zone as a swash bar. The onshore migration of the inner subtidal bar resulted from the erosion of sediment from the upper foreshore and dune ramp during the large storm surge that was transported seaward, causing the landward displacement of the bar through accretion on the landward slope. The magnitude and direction of suspended sediment transport within the intertidal zone, and more specifically at and close to the crest of the swash bar, varied with the ratio of both the significant (Hs) and average (Havg) wave heights to the water depth (hcr) at the swash bar crest (the local depth minimum). The transition between onshore and offshore suspended sediment transport was associated with the average wave of the incident distribution breaking on the swash bar crest (Havgh ≈ 0·33). While the onshore‐directed transport was largest at infragravity frequencies, sediment resuspension was best explained by the skewed accelerations under the surf bores. Offshore transport was dominated by the cross‐shore mean currents (undertow) that developed when the significant wave of the distribution broke on the swash bar crest (Hsh ≈ 0·33) and weakened as the average wave of the distribution started to break at the crest (Havgh ≈ 0·33) and the surf zone approached saturation. In contrast to subtidal bars, the swash bar at Skallingen exhibited a divergent behaviour with respect to the cross‐shore position of the breaker zone, migrating onshore when the average wave broke seaward of the crest and migrating offshore when the average wave broke landward of the crest. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
Flume experiments were conducted on different bed stages across the ripple–dune transition. As flow velocity increases, an initially flat bed surface (made of fairly uniform sandy material) is gradually transformed into a two‐dimensional rippled bed. With further increase in velocity, two‐dimensional ripples are replaced by irregular, linguoid ripples. As the average velocity necessary for the ripple–dune transition to occur is imposed on the bed surface, these non‐equilibrium linguoid ripples are further transformed into larger, two‐dimensional dunes. For each of these stages across the transition, a concrete mould of the bed was created and the flow structure above each fixed bed surface investigated. An acoustic Doppler velocimeter was used to study the flow characteristics above each bed surface. Detailed profiles were used along a transect located in the middle of the channel. Results are presented in the form of spatially averaged profiles of various flow characteristics and of contour maps of flow fields (section view). They clearly illustrate some important distinctions in the flow structure above the different bedform types associated with different stages during the transition. Turbulence intensity and Reynolds stresses gradually increase throughout the transition. Two‐dimensional ripples present a fairly uniform spatial distribution of turbulent flow characteristics above the bed. Linguoid ripples induce three‐dimensional turbulence structure at greater heights above the bed surface and turbulence intensity tends to increase steadily with height above bed surface in the wake region. A very significant increase in turbulence intensity and momentum exchange occurs during the transition from linguoid ripples to dunes. The turbulent flow field properties above dunes are highly dependent on the position along and above the bed surface and these fields present a very high degree of spatial variability (when compared with the rippled beds). Further investigations under natural conditions emphasizing sediment transport mechanisms and rates during the transition should represent the next step of analysis, together with an emphasis on quadrant analysis. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
Cross‐sectional profiles of sand ripples, megaripples, and sand dunes provide a useful tool for discriminating between formation by ripple and dune processes. Feature width, defined as the basal break in slope along the profile to either side of the crest, represents a good standard for comparison of profile attributes across more than three orders of magnitude. Aspect ratio (height/width) as a function of log width separates measurements into clusters representing differing mechanisms of formation. Scaling both height and distance for individual profiles by feature width facilitates comparison of profile shapes across three orders of magnitude in width. The data presented here should prove useful for evaluating possible mechanisms of origin for aeolian features observed remotely, including on planetary bodies. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

14.
This study investigates the recovery capabilities of a single-barred beach in the Pacific Mexican coast before and after the 2015–2016 El Niño winter. Concurrent hydrodynamic and morphological data collected over a 3-year period (August 2014–2017) were analysed to determine the subaerial-subtidal volumetric exchange and cross-shore subtidal sandbar migrations, in relation to the incident wave forcing. The beach presented a seasonal seaward and landward sandbar migration cycle. The sandbar migrated offshore during the energetic waves between November and February, and onshore during the milder wave period in spring, until welding to the subaerial beach around May. The transfer of sediment towards the subaerial section continued over the summer, reaching a complete recovery by September/October. Prior to El Niño, the subaerial beach successfully recovered by the end of summer 2015 through the landward sandbar migration process. The 2015–2016 energetic winter waves caused a subaerial volume loss of ~ 140 m3 m?1 (from October 2015 to March 2016), more than twice the amount eroded in the other winters, and the sandbar moved further offshore and to deeper depths (3–4 m) than the winter before. In addition, the energetic 2015–2016 winter waves lasted for 2 months longer than in other years, making the 2016 spring shorter. Consequently, during the onshore migration, the sandbar was unable of reaching shallow depths, and a large portion of sand remained in the subtidal beach. The subaerial beach recovered 60 and 65% of the loss in the 2016 and 2017 summers, respectively. It is concluded that the landward migration process of the sandbar during the spring is critical to ensure a full subaerial beach recovery over the mild wave period in summer. The recovery capabilities of the subaerial beach will depend on the cross-shore distance and depth where the sandbar is located, and on the duration of mild wave conditions required for the sandbar to migrate onshore.  相似文献   

15.
The velocities with which grains were observed to emerge from a sand bed after an intersaltation collision at u* = 40 cm s?1 are reported for four bed attitudes, from horizontal bed to adverse bed slope 15°. The principal effect of bed angle is to alter the magnitude and direction of the ricochet velocity. However, emergent velocities of dislodged grains are consistent with reptation path lengths comparable to the length of the upwind face of ripples in the corresponding wind. Calculations of the loss of forward momentum at collision, using the data for the range of bed attitudes studied suggest that creep is most vigorous on the sloping upwind face of the ripple and diminishes at the crest. As a result, the crest would be expected to accumulate the coarse material which moves predominantly by creep. The saltations originating in ricochet from the sloping back of the ripple are more vigorous and more concentrated in plan than are those originating at the crest. However, the saltation path length is at least an order of magnitude greater than the ripple wavelength and the probability distribution of path lengths is quite dispersed. Consequently it is very unlikely that these spatial patterns of ricochet are preserved sufficiently distinctly in the saltation cloud and subsequent collision distribution to be the agent of ripple development. This study therefore supports a view of moving grain interaction with the bed in which saltation provides the power to mobilize grains but ripple growth is associated with reptation and particularly with a pattern of impact which develops with the bed relief. Creep is more active on upwind facing slopes than at the crest, which therefore is a zone of net creep grain deposition.  相似文献   

16.
Measurements of near-bed shear stress were undertaken in the shallow subtidal zone at Durras Beach, NSW, Australia using a sideways-looking acoustic velocity meter installed within the wave boundary layer. The wave climate was swell-dominated and wave conditions comprised shoaling and breaking waves as well as surf bores. The sediment at the field site was medium-grained sand, and observations of bedform geometry were conducted using a pencilbeam-sonar system. Using frequency-filtering techniques, the measured stresses were partitioned into terms representing turbulent (Reynolds) stress, stresses due to gravity and infragravity-scale oscillatory motions, and wave-turbulence-mean current cross-terms. Gravity wave-orbital scale motions contributed the largest fraction of the stresses, comprising 24% on average, followed by long-wave advection of vertical orbital motion (16%). The presence of wave orbital-scale motions near or at the water/sediment interface was likely due to the porous nature of the seabed, facilitating interfacial flow. Shear stresses did not scale with bed roughness but exhibited a linear relationship with the relative wave height. This indicates that for the experimental conditions, surf zone processes overwhelmed bed roughness effects on shear stress and friction. Calculations of the wave friction factor, fw, showed that in a natural surf zone, this was a factor 3–4 larger than conventional predictions. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
This paper presents results of investigations (1983–1992) into rates of change, morphology and processes occurring during the current erosional phase in a Morecambe Bay cyclic saltmarsh, in which it has narrowed from c. 1000 m (1975) to c. 150 m (1992). Monthly monitoring of marsh edge erosion and creek knickpoint retreat has revealed temporal and spatial variations. Highest frequency changes of low magnitude coincided with non-storm conditions and overmarsh tides above 5·80 m OD, which submerged the whole marsh. Less frequent changes of greater magnitude were associated with both overmarsh tides and strong onshore winds over 15 ms?1, which generated high energy waves. The lowest frequency change of greatest magnitude occurred during an extreme onshore storm event and surge. Morphologically, during the erosional phase, a low angled landward slope was generated as erosion of the c. 0·5 m high active seaward cliff coincided with vertical accretion of 0·07 ma?1 of relatively coarse sediment on the marsh surface immediately landward. Tidal hydrodynamics strongly influence the saltmarsh, which is confined to the upper 2·5 m of the macrotidal range (maximum c. 10·5 m). During overmarsh spring tides (maximum creek flood flow rate 0·13 ms?1, up to bankfull level), flooding begins over lower landward creek banks before submerging the higher marsh edge. During ebb tides, water trapped by this higher edge can escape seaward only via the creeks (maximum ebb velocities 2·07 ms?1 below bankfull level). Wave erosion also is limited to spring tides. Monthly mapping of the Kent Estuary channel pattern seaward of the saltmarsh showed that medium term higher erosion rates were related to the presence of a large channel, which lowered the adjacent creek base level and allowed larger waves to attack the marsh edge than when a sandbank flanked the marsh. Major River Kent channel shifts appear to initiate accretional or erosional phases of cyclic saltmarsh development.  相似文献   

18.
This paper describes a computer simulation model which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling, wave height attenuation due to frictional losses and breaking, using linear theory up to the break point and a breaker decay model in the surf zone. Peak horizontal orbital velocities at the bed are calculated from Stokes second-order wave theory. The peak onshore and offshore velocities are used with the threshold expression of Komar and Miller (1975) to generate a spatial pattern of size variation of threshold grain diameter along a profile normal to the shore from deep water to the swash zone. The predicted grain size is used in an hydraulic interpretation of grain size distribution on the intertidal profile, based on the hydrodynamic variations over a tidal cycle on a macrotidal beach. The model is successful in predicting the broad pattern of increasing grain size in the onshore direction which has been observed in nature. Comparisons between measured and predicted grain size distributions indicate that the predictions of the model are better than those of previous models, but the model is more successful at predicting sediment size distributions than at predicting mean sizes on a beach profile.  相似文献   

19.
Studies of sediment transport on developed coasts provide perspective on how human adjustments alter natural processes. Deployment of sand‐trapping fences is a common adjustment that changes the characteristics of the dune ramp and its role in linking sediment transfers from the backshore to the foredune. Fence effects were evaluated in the field using anemometer arrays and vertical sediment traps placed across a beach and dune at Seaside Park, New Jersey, USA during onshore and longshore winds. The foredune is 18 m wide and 4.5 m above the backshore. The mean speed of onshore winds at 0.5 m elevation decreased by 17% from the berm crest to the upper ramp and 36% in the lee of a fence there. Sediment transport during mean wind speeds up to 8.0 m s?1 at 0.5 m elevation was < 0.06 kg m?1 h?1 on the berm crest and backshore where fetch distances were < 45 m and surface sediment was relatively coarse (0.74–0.85 mm) but increased to 5.63 kg m?1 h?1 on the upper ramp aided by the longer fetch distances (up to 82 m) and finer grain size of the source sediment there (0.52 mm). Sediment transport along the berm crest and backshore during longshore winds, where fetch distances were > 200 m, was up to 58.69 kg m?1 h?1, about three orders of magnitude greater than during the onshore winds. Fences can displace the toe of the ramp farther seaward than would occur under natural conditions. They can create a gentler slope and change the shape of the ramp to a more convex form. A fence on the ramp can cut off a portion of sediment supply to the upper slope. Decisions about fence placement thus should consider these morphologic changes in addition to the effects on dune volume. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
The Simulator of Artificial RaInfall (SARI) rainfall simulator (RS) is a newly designed, constructed and calibrated, portable, two-nozzle RS with low water consumption, accurate measurement, easy management and low cost. The raindrop size distribution and velocity and mean rainfall intensity were measured. The best rainfall spatial distribution was achieved with nozzles separated by 50, 60 and 70 cm, and with oscillation angles of 30, 45 and 60°, at a pressure of 60 kPa. The uniformity coefficient varied from 57 to 61% and rainfall intensity from 48 to 101 mm h?1. The raindrop diameter varied from 0.2 to 9.9 mm. The raindrop velocity at the optimum pressure of 60 kPa, which was measured with high-speed photography, ranged from 1.1 to 7.1 m s?1. Comparison with other RSs shows that the SARI simulator is a suitable apparatus to research soil erosion and runoff generation under laboratory and field conditions.  相似文献   

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