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1.
Abstract

Marked oscillations in wind speed, wind direction and pressure with periods of between 5 and 15 minutes were recorded on a number of occasions and it is assumed that they were produced by atmospheric gravity waves. Gossard and Munk (1954) have shown that the phase velocity of a gravity wave can be calculated using wind and pressure fluctuation data from a single station by means of the “impedance equation”. It is also possible to measure the phase velocity of a gravity wave using an array of microbarovariographs. In this investigation, the phase velocity of gravity waves calculated using these two different methods are compared and the feasibility of deriving wave characteristics from single point measurements is discussed. The results show that, while in a few isolated cases the two velocities agree reasonably well, the application of the impedance equation to data from a single station is limited due to the superposition of local wind systems upon the wave-induced perturbations.  相似文献   

2.
Data from the SESAME storm-scale network are used in computing the momentum budget of the prestorm, storm, and poststorm environment of a severe storm complex. In the prestorm period geostrophic flow dominates the environment. With progression into the storm period all terms in the momentum equation become important, as a significant ageostrophic component in the momentum field develops. Turbulent effects are estimated as a residual, and the results indicate that they are comparable in magnitude to the other terms. Their effect is to decrease the positive momentum, particularly at levels above 500 mbar, where the vertical motion is the strongest. Vertical profiles of area means ofu andv indicate that the storm is apparently redistributing momentum downwards, thus reducing the mean shear. In the poststorm period the flow once again becomes largely geostrophic, and a maximum in wind speed reappears at upper levels.  相似文献   

3.
The impact of the gustiness on surface waves under storm conditions is investigated with focus on the appearance of wave groups with extreme high amplitude and wavelength in the North Sea. During many storms characterized by extremely high individual waves measured near the German coast, especially in cold air outbreaks, the moving atmospheric open cells are observed by optical and radar satellites. According to measurements, the footprint of the cell produces a local increase in the wind field at sea surface, moving as a consistent system with a propagation speed near to swell wave-traveling speed. The optical and microwave satellite data are used to connect mesoscale atmospheric turbulences and the extreme waves measured. The parameters of open cells observed are used for numerical spectral wave modeling. The North Sea with horizontal resolution of 2.5?km and with focus on the German Bight was simulated. The wind field “storm in storm,” including moving organized mesoscale eddies with increased wind speed, was generated. To take into account the rapid moving gust structure, the input wind field was updated each 5?min. The test cases idealized with one, two, and four open individual cells and, respectively, with groups of open cells, with and without preexisting sea state, as well the real storm conditions, are simulated. The model results confirm that an individual-moving open cell can cause the local significant wave height increase in order of meters within the cell area and especially in a narrow area of 1–2?km at the footprint center of a cell (the cell's diameter is 40–90?km). In a case of a traveling individual open cell with 15?m·s?1 over a sea surface with a preexisting wind sea of and swell, a local significant wave height increase of 3.5?m is produced. A group of cells for a real storm condition produces a local increase of significant wave height of more than 6?m during a short time window of 10–20?min (cell passing). The sea surface simulation from modeled wave spectra points out the appearance of wave groups including extreme individual waves with a period of about 25?s and a wavelength of more than 350?m under the cell's footprint. This corresponds well with measurement of a rogue wave group with length of about 400?m and a period of near 25?s. This has been registered at FiNO-1 research platform in the North Sea during Britta storm on November 1, 2006 at 04:00 UTC. The results can explain the appearance of rogue waves in the German Bight and can be used for ship safety and coastal protection. Presently, the considered mesoscale gustiness cannot be incorporated in present operational wave forecasting systems, since it needs an update of the wind field at spatial and temporal scales, which is still not available for such applications. However, the scenario simulations for cell structures with appropriate travel speed, observed by optical and radar satellites, can be done and applied for warning messages.  相似文献   

4.
Abstract

This paper describes the linear response of an inviscid two‐layer model of a deep ocean on an f‐plane to a hurricane translating across the surface at constant speed. The forcing is a localized, radially‐symmetric pattern of positive wind stress curl and negative pressure anomaly. Only the steady state response is considered. The principal result is the identification of an internal wake in the lee of the storm, present when the translation speed of the storm exceeds the baroclinic long wave speed. The amplitude of the wake depends on the length of time over which the stress is experienced at a given point. The angle of the wedge filled by the wake is small, an effect due to the fact that the scale of a hurricane is typically larger than the baroclinic radius of deformation. After the wake disperses, a geostrophically balanced baroclinic ridge remains along the storm track.  相似文献   

5.
Summary Data are presented concerning Reynolds Stresses in wind waves obtained from time series records of horizontal and vertical velocity components of motion beneath the ocean free surface. The stresses, of the order of 25 dyne cm–2, are generally positive indicating horizontal momentum transfer downward through the dynamic wind wave regime. The magnitude of the observed stress increases with wind speed and sea state. The co-spectra show strong negative peaks which appear at the ambient wave frequencies and indicate that the correlations or eddy stresses of the gross wave motions are responsible for the momentum flux. This is a corroboration of results reported previously by the writer in this journal.  相似文献   

6.
The oceanic mixed layer (OML) response to an idealized hurricane with different propagation speeds is investigated using a two-layer reduced gravity ocean model. First, the model performances are examined with respect to available observations relative to Hurricane Frances (2004). Then, 11 idealized simulations are performed with a Holland (Mon Weather Rev 108(8):1212–1218, 1980) symmetric wind profile as surface forcing with storm propagation speeds ranging from 2 to 12 m s−1. By varying this parameter, the phasing between atmospheric and oceanic scales is modified. Consequently, it leads to different momentum exchanges between the hurricane and the OML and to various oceanic responses. The present study determines how OML momentum and heat budgets depend on this parameter. The kinetic energy flux due to surface wind stress is found to strongly depend on the propagation speed and on the cross-track distance from the hurricane center. A resonant regime between surface winds and near-inertial currents is clearly identified. This regime maximizes locally the energy flux into the OML. For fast-moving hurricanes (>6 m s−1), the ratio of kinetic energy converted into turbulence depends only on the wind stress energy input. For slow-moving hurricanes (<6 m s−1), the upwelling induced by current divergence enhances this conversion by shallowing the OML depth. Regarding the thermodynamic response, two regimes are identified with respect to the propagation speed. For slow-moving hurricanes, the upwelling combined with a sharp temperature gradient at the OML base formed in the leading part of the storm maximizes the oceanic heat loss. For fast propagation speeds, the resonance mechanism sets up the cold wake on the right side of the hurricane track. These results suggest that the propagation speed is a parameter as important as the surface wind speed to accurately describe the oceanic response to a moving hurricane.  相似文献   

7.
The observation of extreme waves at FINO 1 during storm Britta on the 1st November 2006 has initiated a series of research studies regarding the mechanisms behind. The roles of stability and the presence of the open cell structures have been previously investigated but not conclusive. To improve our understanding of these processes, which are essential for a good forecast of similarly important events offshore, this study revisits the development of storm Britta using an atmospheric and wave coupled modeling system, wind and wave measurements from ten stations across the North Sea, cloud images and Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) data. It is found here that a standard state-of-the-art model is capable of capturing the important characteristics of a major storm like Britta, including the storm path, storm peak wind speed, the open cells, and peak significant wave height (H s ) for open sea. It was also demonstrated that the impact of the open cells has negligible contribution to the development of extreme H s observed at FINO 1. At the same time, stability alone is not sufficient in explaining the development of extreme H s . The controlling conditions for the development of Britta extreme H s observed at FINO 1 are the persistent strong winds and a long and undisturbed fetch over a long period.  相似文献   

8.
Coastal imagery obtained from a coastal video monitoring station installed at Faro Beach, S. Portugal, was combined with topographic data from 40 surveys to generate a total of 456 timestack images. The timestack images were processed in an open-access, freely available graphical user interface (GUI) software, developed to extract and process time series of the cross-shore position of the swash extrema. The generated dataset of 2% wave run-up exceedence values R 2 was used to form empirical formulas, using as input typical hydrodynamic and coastal morphological parameters, generating a best-fit case RMS error of 0.39 m. The R 2 prediction capacity was improved when the shore-normal wind speed component and/or the tidal elevation η tide were included in the parameterizations, further reducing the RMS errors to 0.364 m. Introducing the tidal level appeared to allow a more accurate representation of the increased wave energy dissipation during low tides, while the negative trend between R 2 and the shore-normal wind speed component is probably related to the wind effect on wave breaking. The ratio of the infragravity-to-incident frequency energy contributions to the total swash spectra was in general lower than the ones reported in the literature E infra/E inci > 0.8, since low-frequency contributions at the steep, reflective Faro Beach become more significant mainly during storm conditions. An additional parameterization for the total run-up elevation was derived considering only 222 measurements for which η total,2 exceeded 2 m above MSL and the best-fit case resulted in RMS error of 0.41 m. The equation was applied to predict overwash along Faro Beach for four extreme storm scenarios and the predicted overwash beach sections, corresponded to a percentage of the total length ranging from 36% to 75%.  相似文献   

9.
Abstract

The necessary and sufficient conditions for non-zero phase shift and non-zero attenuation in linear flood routing can be derived from the continuity equation alone and are found to depend on the existence of an imaginary part in the expression for frequency or in the expression for wave number. It is shown that in linear flood routing the phase lag between flow rate and area of flow is directly related to the attenuation per unit wave length. The effects of using various forms of the momentum equation, in addition to the continuity equation, are exemplified by deriving analytical expressions in terms of the frequency, both for attenuation per unit channel length and for phase shift, for the kinematic wave, the general diffusion analogy, and the complete St. Venant equation.  相似文献   

10.
This paper concerns new field measurements of wave height and crest elevation probability distributions as measured in the North Sea during a storm in December 2012. The water surface elevation was recorded by Saab WaveRadar REX instruments mounted on eight fixed-jacket platforms in addition to a Datawell Directional Waverider buoy. The storm generated an easterly sea state which peaked well in excess of the 100-year wave height for that direction in the region. Furthermore, 19 freak waves occurred during the storm according to the definition as reported by Haver (2000). The present study demonstrates that the significant steepness and spectral bandwidth during the storm remain almost constant. Consequently, there is little change in the commonly applied design wave height and crest elevation probability distributions throughout the storm. Whilst the bulk of the recorded data was in good agreement with the theoretical distributions, it was demonstrated that when the wind speed was larger than 25 m/s, the measured crest elevation lies above the second-order Forristall distribution.  相似文献   

11.
A coupled ocean and boundary layer flux numerical modeling system is used to study the upper ocean response to surface heat and momentum fluxes associated with a major hurricane, namely, Hurricane Dennis (July 2005) in the Gulf of Mexico. A suite of experiments is run using this modeling system, constructed by coupling a Navy Coastal Ocean Model simulation of the Gulf of Mexico to an atmospheric flux model. The modeling system is forced by wind fields produced from satellite scatterometer and atmospheric model wind data, and by numerical weather prediction air temperature data. The experiments are initialized from a data assimilative hindcast model run and then forced by surface fluxes with no assimilation for the time during which Hurricane Dennis impacted the region. Four experiments are run to aid in the analysis: one is forced by heat and momentum fluxes, one by only momentum fluxes, one by only heat fluxes, and one with no surface forcing. An equation describing the change in the upper ocean hurricane heat potential due to the storm is developed. Analysis of the model results show that surface heat fluxes are primarily responsible for widespread reduction (0.5°–1.5°C) of sea surface temperature over the inner West Florida Shelf 100–300 km away from the storm center. Momentum fluxes are responsible for stronger surface cooling (2°C) near the center of the storm. The upper ocean heat loss near the storm center of more than 200 MJ/m2 is primarily due to the vertical flux of thermal energy between the surface layer and deep ocean. Heat loss to the atmosphere during the storm’s passage is approximately 100–150 MJ/m2. The upper ocean cooling is enhanced where the preexisting mixed layer is shallow, e.g., within a cyclonic circulation feature, although the heat flux to the atmosphere in these locations is markedly reduced.  相似文献   

12.
Abstract

Various patterns of sprinkling assemblies constructed to simulate natural design storms in the field are described. A design storm is that storm causing the most severe erosion losses out of all storms in the period of design. Adequate means of conservation or protection should be devised to meet such a storm. The objective in the use of a rainfall simulator is to considerably shorten the study period, without having to wait for a natural design storm to occur.

The simulated rain is applied by various overlapping patterns of two-arm rotating sprinklers positioned 2 metres above the ground.

Results of performance tests of the simulator in relation to natural storms are summarized as follows:

Uniformity of application was reproduced within a 10% range lower than natural storms. Intensities can be applied between 6 and 120 mm/hr within 10% of designed intensity. Angles of impact of simulator drops were found comparable to those of natural rain with wind velocities of 10 to 20 kph. The mode diameter of simulator drop size distribution was found to be 0.5–1.0 mm lower than that of natural rain. Kinetic energy was 60 to 75% and momentum 70 to 80% of those in a natural storm.

Collection and measurement of runoff and erosion are described.  相似文献   

13.

The dynamics of solitary Rossby waves (SRWs) embedded in a meridionally sheared, zonally varying background flow are examined using a non-divergent barotropic model centered on a midlatitude g -plane. The zonally varying background flow, which is produced by an external potential vorticity (PV) forcing, yields a modified Korteweg-de Vries (K-dV) equation that governs the spatial-temporal evolution of a disturbance field that contains both Rossby wave packets and SRWs. The modified K-dV equation differs from the classical equation in that the zonally varying background flow, which varies on the same scale as the disturbance field, directly affects the disturbance linear translation speed and linear growth characteristics. In the limit of a locally parallel background flow, equations governing the amplitude and propagation characteristics of SRWs are derived analytically. These equations show, for example, that a sufficiently large (small) translation speed and/or a sufficiently weak (strong) background zonal shear favor transmission (reflection) of the SRW through (from) the jet. Conservation equations are derived showing that time changes in the domain averaged amplitude ("mass") or squared amplitude ("momentum") are due to zonal variation in both the linear, long-wave phase speed and linear growth; dispersion and nonlinearity do not affect the "mass" or "momentum". Provided (1) the background PV forcing is sufficiently small, or (2) the background PV forcing is meridionally symmetric and the disturbance is a SRW, the dynamics of the disturbance field is Hamiltonian and mass and energy are thus conserved. Numerical solutions of the K-dV equation show that the zonally varying background flow yields three general classes of behavior: reflection, transmission, or trapping. Within each class there exists SRWs and Rossby wave packets. SRWs that become trapped within the zonally localized jet region may exhibit the following behaviors: (1) an oscillatory decay to a steady state at the jet center, (2) the creation of additional SRWs within the jet region, or (3) a steady-state wherein the solution has a smoothed step-like structure located downstream along the jet axis.  相似文献   

14.
We report on an experimental study conducted to investigate the influence of small-scale wind waves on the airflow structure in the immediate vicinity of the air–water interface. PIV technique was used to measure the two-dimensional velocity fields at wind speeds of 3.7 and 4.4 m?s?1 and at a fetch of 2.1 m. The flow structure was analyzed as a function of wave phase. In the near-surface region, significant variations were observed in the flow structure over the waveform. The phase-averaged profiles of velocity, vorticity, and Reynolds stress showed different behavior on the windward and leeward sides of the wave in the near-surface region. The influence of wave-induced velocity was restricted within a distance of three significant wave heights from the surface, which also showed opposite trends on the windward and leeward sides of the crest. The results also show that the turbulent Reynolds stress mainly supports downward momentum transfer whereas the wave-induced Reynolds stress is responsible for the upward momentum transfer from wave to wind. In the immediate vicinity of the air–water interface, the momentum is transferred from waves to wind along the windward side, whereas, the momentum transfer is from wind to waves along the leeward side.  相似文献   

15.
A set of numerical experiments has been performed in order to analyze the long-wave response of the coastal ocean to a translating mesoscale atmospheric cyclone approaching the coastline at a normal angle. An idealized two-slope shelf topography is chosen. The model is forced by a radially symmetric atmospheric pressure perturbation with a corresponding gradient wind field. The cyclone's translation speed, radius, and the continental shelf width are considered as parameters whose impact on the long wave period, modal structure, and amplitude is studied. Subinertial continental shelf waves (CSW) dominate the response under typical forcing conditions and on the narrower shelves. They propagate in the downstream (in the sense of Kelvin wave propagation) direction. Superinertial edge wave modes have higher free surface amplitudes and faster phase speeds than the CSW modes. While potentially more dangerous, edge waves are not as common as subinertial shelf waves because their generation requires a wide, gently sloping shelf and a storm system translating at a relatively high (∼10 m s−1 or faster) speed. A relatively smaller size of an atmospheric cyclone also favors edge wave generation. Edge waves with the highest amplitude (up to 60% of the forced storm surge) propagate upstream. They are produced by a storm system with an Eulerian time scale equal to the period of a zero-mode edge wave with the wavelength of the storm spatial scale. Large amplitude edge waves were generated during Hurricane Wilma's landfall (2005) on the West Florida shelf with particularly severe flooding occurring upstream of the landfall site.  相似文献   

16.
We report on an experimental study conducted to investigate the influence of small-scale wind waves on the airflow structure in the immediate vicinity of the air–water interface. PIV technique was used to measure the two-dimensional velocity fields at wind speeds of 3.7 and 4.4 m s−1 and at a fetch of 2.1 m. The flow structure was analyzed as a function of wave phase. In the near-surface region, significant variations were observed in the flow structure over the waveform. The phase-averaged profiles of velocity, vorticity, and Reynolds stress showed different behavior on the windward and leeward sides of the wave in the near-surface region. The influence of wave-induced velocity was restricted within a distance of three significant wave heights from the surface, which also showed opposite trends on the windward and leeward sides of the crest. The results also show that the turbulent Reynolds stress mainly supports downward momentum transfer whereas the wave-induced Reynolds stress is responsible for the upward momentum transfer from wave to wind. In the immediate vicinity of the air–water interface, the momentum is transferred from waves to wind along the windward side, whereas, the momentum transfer is from wind to waves along the leeward side.  相似文献   

17.
Wind flow and sand transport intensity were measured on the seaward slope of a vegetated foredune during a 16 h storm using an array of sonic anemometers and Wenglor laser particle counters. The foredune had a compound seaward slope with a wave‐cut scarp about 0.5 m high separating the upper vegetated portion from the lower dune ramp, which was bare of vegetation. Wind direction veered from obliquely offshore at the start of the event to obliquely onshore during the storm peak and finally to directly onshore during the final 2 h as wind speed dropped to below threshold. Sand transport was initially inhibited by a brief period of rain at the start of the event but as the surface dried and wind speed increased sand transport was initiated over the entire seaward slope. Transport intensity was quite variable both temporally and spatially on the upper slope as a result of fluctuating wind speed and direction, but overall magnitudes were similar over the whole length. Ten‐minute average transport intensity correlates strongly with mean wind speed measured at the dune crest, and there is also strong correlation between instantaneous wind speed and transport intensity measured at the same locations when the data are smoothed with a 10 s running mean. Transport on the beach for onshore winds is decoupled from that on the seaward slope above the small scarp when the wind angle is highly oblique, but for wind angles <45° from shore perpendicular some sand is transported onto the lower slope. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
A model for the air–sea interface, based on the coupled pair of similarity relations for “aerodynamically” rough flow in both fluids, is presented, which is applied to fetch-limited and high wind speed conditions which occur, for example, in hurricanes. It is shown that the specification of the maximum 10-m drag coefficient and the 10-m wind speed and the peak wave speed at which it occurs are sufficient to uniquely determine the drag law, which asymptotes at low wind speeds to a Charnock constant similar to that for the fully developed wind wave sea and is almost independent of the peak wave speed at the maximum in drag coefficient. A feature of the drag law is that it is of Charnock form, almost independent of the wave age, consistent with the transfer of momentum to the wave spectrum being due to the smaller rather than the dominant wavelengths. The analysis is also applied to a variable sea state in which either the surface wind or the surface Stokes drift vary, but the peak wave speed is kept constant. The corresponding variability in the Charnock constant is in general accord with observations.  相似文献   

19.
Abstract

In an ocean with a horizontal bottom where no wind is blowing it is shown that the spin (angular momentum) of the ocean is conserved. Thus, when energy is dissipated, at least one of three things will happen: i) Wave spectra may move towards lower frequencies. ii) The directional distribution may be changed towards long-crested waves. iii) Shear currents may be generated. By neglecting ii) and iii), the frequency shift of a spectrum is calculated due to molecular dissipation. When all energy transforming phenomena as e.g. wave breaking and turbulence generation are taken into account, the conservation of spin seems to be able to explain the frequency shift of wave spectra. In shallow water it is shown that there is energy transfer from the waves to shear currents.  相似文献   

20.
An analytical expression for the 10 m drag law in terms of the 10 m wind speed at the maximum in the 10 m drag coefficient, and the Charnock constant is presented, which is based on the results obtained from a model of the air-sea interface derived in Bye et al. (2010). This drag law is almost independent of wave age and over the mid-range of wind speeds (5?17 ms?1) is very similar to the drag law based on observed data presented in Foreman and Emeis (2010). The linear fit of the observed data which incorporates a constant into the traditional definition of the drag coefficient is shown to arise to first-order as a consequence of the momentum exchange across the air-sea boundary layer brought about by wave generation and spray production which are explicitly represented in the theoretical model.  相似文献   

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