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1.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(2):115-142
The Arcachon Lagoon on the French Atlantic coast is a triangular shaped lagoon of 20 km on a side connected to the ocean by a 3-km wide inlet between the mainland and an elongated sand spit. This tidal inlet exhibits a particularly active morphology due to locally strong tidal currents and rough wave conditions. During the past 300 years, minimum and maximum spatial extents of the Cap Ferret sand spit have varied by 8 km while one or two channels have alternately allowed circulation between the lagoon and the ocean. These impressive morphological changes have never prevented regular flushing of the lagoon, eventhough the spit came as close as 300 m from the coast during the 18th century. According to Bruun's concept of tidal inlet stability [Theory and Engineering (1978), 510 pp.], the balance between longshore littoral transport and the tidal prism ensures the perpetuity of the inlet.Process modeling was believed to give better insight into the respective roles of tides and waves in driving the long-term morphological changes of the inlet. A two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was therefore developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. The use of process models at a scale of decades requires a schematization of the input conditions. We defined representative mean annual wave and tide conditions with respect to sediment transport, i.e. conditions that induce the same annual transport as measured in the field. Driven by these representative conditions, simulations run from the 1993 bathymetry show that the tide is responsible for the opening of a new channel at the extremity of the sand spit (where tidal currents are the strongest), while waves induce a littoral transport responsible for the longshore drift of sand bodies across the inlet. One particular simulation consisted in running the model from a hypothetical initial topography where the channels are filled with sand and the entire inlet is set to a constant depth (3 m). The results show the reproduction of a channel and bar system comparable to historical observations, which supports the idea that the lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades. 相似文献
2.
用一维水力学方程求取泻湖水位及潮汐汊道断面流速——以海南陵水新村港为例 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
本文通过一维水力学运动方程及连续性方程,得出一个反映泻湖水位变化的二阶非线性有阻尼的强迫振动方程,采用龙格-库特四步格式进行求解,并以海南陵水新村港为例,计算了泻湖水位及潮汐汊道的断面流速.研究结果表明:(1)一维水力学方程可容易地求得泻湖-潮汐汊道体系中泻湖内的水位及汊道的断面流速,计算简单快捷.(2)一维水力学方程可分析潮汐汊道体系中的一些基本现象.如潮汐汊道对潮波的"过滤器"特征;由于泻湖-潮汐汊道体系的阻尼系数较大所导致的潮波自外向泻湖传播时衰减剧烈;径流对泻湖水位及汊道流速产生有利于落潮优势的影响;风可使泻湖水位抬升或下降等.(3)无论是否考虑泻湖与潮汐汊道面积随水位的变化,一维水力学方程都具有相当大的缺陷.由于其不能反映泻湖内地形的空间变化,也不能解决漫滩与归槽等过程,在外海潮波无次生波的情况下,它本身不能产生次生潮波,因而不能正确地反映潮汐汊道体系的涨落潮历时与流速不对称,从而不能分析泥沙的净输运及潮汐汊道的稳定性问题.(4)新村港泻湖-潮汐汊道体系中潮汐汊道的断面面积大小对整个体系的稳定性及演变趋势起着控制作用. 相似文献
3.
Numerical experiments in an idealized river mouth are conducted using a three-dimensional hydrodynamics model (EFDC model) to examine the impacts of suspended sediment concentration (SSC), settling velocity of sediment and tidal mixing on the formation and maintenance of estuarine hyperpycnal flows. The standard experiment presents an illustrative view of hyperpycnal flows that carry high-concentrated sediment and low-salinity water in the bottom layer (>1.0 m in thickness) along the subaqueous slope. The structure and intra-tidal variation of the simulated hyperpycnal flows are quite similar to those previously observed off the Huanghe (Yellow River) mouth. Results from the three control experiments show that SSC of river effluents is the most important parameter to the formation of hyperpycnal flows. High SSC will increase the bulk density of river effluents and thus offset the density difference between freshwater and seawater. Low SSC of river effluents will produce a surface river plume, as commonly observed in most large estuaries. Both the settling velocity of sediment particles and the tidal mixing play an important role in maintaining the hyperpycnal flows. Increasing settling velocity enhances the deposition of sediment from the hyperpycnal layer and thus accelerates the attenuation of hyperpycnal flows, whereas increasing tidal mixing destroys the stratification of water column and therefore makes the hyperpycnal flows less evident. Our results from numerical experiments are of importance to understand the initiation and maintenance of hyperpycnal flows in estuaries and provide a reference to the rapidly decaying hyperpycnal flows off the Huanghe river mouth due to climatic and anthropogenic forcing over the past several decades. 相似文献
4.
粤西水东湾现代沉积环境特征与泥沙搬运路径 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
对粤西水东湾沉积地貌单元的现代沉积物分布特征分析与泥沙净搬运矢量计算表明，滨面斜坡沉积物主要由砂粒级物质组成，粒级参数Ｍｄ，ＱＤ和ＳＫ具有从海向岸、自东向西变化的总趋势，泥沙净搬运趋势以向岸和西北为主。落潮三角洲沉积物较其邻近滨面斜坡有所粗化，分选从中部向两侧变好，泥沙在落潮流与波浪驱动下沿落潮三角洲边缘向西运动。口门内潮汐通道深槽泥沙净搬运趋势指向湖。湖区的沉积物以泥质为主，分选中等至差，并形成绕涨潮三角洲的泥沙环流元。 相似文献
5.
Entrance morphologies and sediment characteristics were studied at Westport Harbour, a river mouth port located on the Buller River, New Zealand. The most frequent morphology found was that in which two submarine bars were present off the river mouth. When present, these bars were separated by a transverse channel running east from Carters Beach and terminating in the principal inlet channel. Sediment samples were collected and analysed for grain size, reliability (grain shape), and, in a few instances, mineralogy. The data collected suggested that longshore sediment transport is predominantly west to east and that river derived sediment is deflected to the east. The inner bar is predominantly a littoral drift related event whereas the outer bar, which is composed mainly of littoral drifted sediment, forms as a submarine extension of Carters Beach. Both bars can be modified by floods in the river, although modification of the outer bar is much less frequent because of the very high river flows required. Sediment can bypass directly across the river mouth only when the inner bar is present. On other occasions bypassing can only occur by transport through the transverse channel or over the outer bar, into the river channel and then onshore. 相似文献
6.
This work provides a general hydrodynamic circulation model that can be used to understand density driven flows, which may arise in the case of suspension of fine-grained materials. The research is expected to provide a better understanding of the characteristics of spatial and temporal variability of current, which is associated with the period of ebb and flood tidal cycles.The model development includes extending the existing three-dimensional (3D) ADCIRC model with (1) baroclinic forcing term and (2) transport module of suspended and soluble materials. The transport module covers the erosion, material suspension and deposition processes for cohesive type sediment. In the case of an idealized tidal inlet in stratified water, the inclusion of baroclinic term can demonstrate the prevailing longshore sediment transport. It is shown that the model has application to the transport of the cohesive sediments from the mouth of the Mississippi River along the north shore of the Gulf of Mexico towards and along the Texas coast. 相似文献
7.
黄河水下三角洲沉积物输运及海底冲淤研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
根据黄河水下三角洲的特点,建立了一个垂直平均二维沉积物输运数学模型,结合潮流和沉积物资料,模拟研究了沉积物输运机制和海底冲淤演变过程。模拟结果表明,垂直河口射流的潮流决定了本区沉积物净输运的总体格局,风应力对悬浮泥沙和推移质泥沙运动也起到重要作用。潮流底应力和活动层厚度分布表明,黄河口门和埕岛油田附近海域是潮流底应力和活动层厚度高值区,为沉积物活跃区,海底稳定性弱,易于侵蚀再搬运。冲淤计算表明,埕岛油田附近海域为冲刷中心区;现在河口水下三角洲在断流时为冲刷区,正常行河时则转为淤积区。 相似文献
8.
珠江黄茅海河口洪季侧向余环流与泥沙输移 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
2012年洪季对珠江黄茅海河口湾侧向动力结构与泥沙输移过程进行了系统观测,采用动量平衡和泥沙通量机制分解等方法,分析了河口流、温盐和泥沙侧向分布特征以及泥沙输移过程,探讨了侧向动量平衡与泥沙输移机制。洪季黄茅海河口存在明显的侧向流,西滩和北槽均形成表层向东、底层向西的两层侧向流,拦门沙滩顶呈现表、底层向西、中层向东的三层侧向流,而拦门沙前缘侧向流整体向西。河口湾纵向净泥沙通量表现为北槽向海、西滩向陆,拦门沙滩顶及其前缘均向海;侧向净泥沙通量表现为滩顶及其前缘均向西,西滩向东、北槽向西。这种侧向泥沙辐聚过程是高浓度悬沙聚集于滩槽界面的重要原因,向陆净通量是西滩回淤的重要原因。滩槽间侧向余环流动量平衡主要是侧向斜压梯度力、科氏力和侧向平流作用。欧拉平流输运在侧向泥沙输运中起主要作用,潮泵效应也起重要作用。 相似文献
9.
The combined tidal and wind driven flow and resulting sediment transport in the ocean over a flat bottom at intermediate water depth has been investigated, using a simple one dimensional two-equation turbulence closure model. This model has been verified against field measurements of a tidal flow in the Celtic Sea. The tidal velocity ellipses and the time series of the horizontal velocity components at given elevations above the bottom are well predicted through the water column although there are some deviations between the predicted and measured velocities near the bottom due to the uncertainty of the bottom roughness. For the combined tidal and wind driven flows the velocity profiles, turbulent kinetic energy profiles and surface particle trajectories are predicted for weak and strong winds. Furthermore, the bottom shear stress and the resulting bedload transport have been predicted; the parts of the particle trajectories in the close vicinity of the bottom where the bedload transport exists are displayed. Finally, the direction and magnitude of the surface drift, the depth-averaged mean velocity and the mean bedload transport are given, and the effect of the bottom roughness on the sea surface drift is investigated. 相似文献
10.
Subhasis Pradhan Sujit Kumar Mishra Rakesh Baral Rabindro Nath Samal Pratap Kumar Mohanty 《Marine Geodesy》2017,40(2-3):187-203
ABSTRACTChilika, a lagoon along the east coast of India, is undergoing transformation due to frequent shoreline change near inlet(s). Shoreline change near inlet includes change in position and shape of inlet, inlet channel length, and spit growth/erosion. These variable features of lagoon inlet(s) critically depend on alongshore sediment transport (LST) and discharge (water and sediment) from the lagoon to the sea. The LST and the processes responsible for sand spit growth/erosion, considered as important attributes of inlet stability, are the subject matter of the present investigation and hence the study assumes importance. The study includes integration of observational and modeling framework. Observations include nearshore wave, bathymetry, beach profile, shoreline and sediment grain size of spits while numerical modeling includes simulation of the wave using MIKE 21 Spectral Wave model and LST simulation using LITtoral DRIFT. The results indicate that the predominant wave directions as S and SSE, which induces round the year south to north alongshore transport with significant seasonal variation in magnitude. The estimated LST closely matches with previous studies near Chilika inlet and for other locations along the Odisha coast. Besides temporal variability, the study reveals spatial variability in alongshore transport near Chilika inlet and considers it as one of the important attributes along with northward spit growth for inlet migration/closure/opening. 相似文献
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12.
《Marine and Petroleum Geology》2003,20(6-8):861-882
Hyperpycnal flows form in the marine environment when river discharge enters the ocean with suspended concentrations in excess of 36 kg m−3 due to buoyancy considerations, or as little as 1–5 kg m−3 when convective instability is considered. They form at a river mouth during floods of small to medium size rivers including extreme events such as jökulhaups, dam breaking and draining, and lahars. Associated with high-suspended concentration, they can transport considerable volume of sediment to ocean basins. The typical deposit or hyperpycnite sequence is a compound of a basal coarsening-up unit, deposited during the waxing period of discharge, and a top fining-up unit deposited during the waning period of discharge. Hyperpycnites differ from other turbidites because of their well-developed inversely graded facies and intrasequence erosional contacts. These observations lead to a complete redefinition and interpretation of fine-grained turbidites. Hyperpycnite stacking can locally generate high-sedimentation rates, in the range of 1–2 m per 100 year. Because hyperpycnites are related to climate through flood frequency and magnitude, their record should vary with sea level and climate change. They can also be associated with proximal ice-melting settings. Hyperpycnal flows could also be involved in the formation of meandering canyons and channels. 相似文献
13.
Abstract Sediment transport at the Tauranga Entrance was studied in relation to tidal currents and waves. Bedforms resulting from tidal flow were investigated with scuba divers and echo‐soundings. The alignment and scale of bedforms indicated the direction and approximate rate of sediment transport. Sediment transport was measured directly using sediment traps, and results were compared with rates calculated by another method. Maximum sediment transport rates of 20 000–30 000 g.m?1 per half tidal cycle occur near the inlet gorge, but rates vary considerably in time and space, depending mainly upon power of tidal currents. A model of sediment transport for this inlet has been evolved based on tidal flow streamlines, bedform features, and the measured and calculated rates of sediment transport. 相似文献
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15.
Channels are relatively common on river-mouth deltas, but the process by which they arise from river sediment discharge is unclear because they can potentially be explained either by negatively buoyant (hyperpycnal) flows produced directly from the river outflow or by flows generated by repeated failure and mobilisation of sediment rapidly deposited at the delta front. Channels eroded through a dump site of dredge spoils are described here from multibeam and older sonar data collected in Commencement Bay, at the mouth of the Puyallup River. Shallow channels on the seaward upper surface of the dump site, away from any flows that could have been produced by delta front failures, suggest that at least some hyperpycnal flows were produced directly from the positively buoyant river outflow up to 200 m from the edge of the river mouth platform. The form of channel bed erosion is revealed by the longitudinal shape of the main eroded channel compared with the adjacent dump site profile. It suggests that the channel evolved by its steep front retreating, rather than by simple vertical entrenchment or diffusive-like evolution of the profile, a geometry interpreted as evidence that repeated failure of the bed occurred in response to shear stress imposed by bottom-travelling flows. Model calculations based on shear strengths back-calculated from the geometry of channel wall failures suggest that, if the main channel were eroded solely by hyperpycnal flows, their generation was remarkably efficient in order to create flows vigorous enough to cause channel bed failure. Besides the sediment concentration and discharge characteristics that have been considered to dictate the ability of rivers to produce hyperpycnal flows, it is suggested that the timing of floods with respect to the tidal cycle should also be important because extreme low tides may be needed to ensure that coarse sediment is transferred vigorously to the edge of river mouth platforms. 相似文献
16.
A numerical model was used to predict toxic microalgal transport and dispersion in Ria de Aveiro in Portugal. A previously developed Lagrangean particle tracking model coupled to a calibrated two-dimensional hydrodynamic model of Ria de Aveiro was used. Microalgae were regarded as passive particles and the methodology used allowed the determination of their trajectories, as induced by the tidal currents predicted by the hydrodynamic model. The model assumes Ria de Aveiro as vertically homogeneous and does not take into account the vertical distribution patterns of microalgae. Simulations were carried out during extreme spring and neap tides, with microalgal released at the mouth of the lagoon at the local flood. The maximum and minimum areas affected during the occurrence of toxic microalgal blooms were estimated to evaluate the suitability of the distribution of the sampling stations included in the local monitoring program. It was found that the tidal currents greatly determine the microalgal horizontal distribution and dispersal in the lagoon. The results confirmed that the locations of water and bivalve shellfish sampling stations, postulated by INIAP/IPIMAR, in the context of the local harmful algal bloom (HAB) program, were appropriate, although some possible refinements were identified. 相似文献
17.
The paper presents investigations of wave climate, tidal inlet hydraulics, and sand sediment bypassing at the entrance to Westport Harbour, South Island, New Zealand. The results complement and extend those of studies of bar morphologies and sediment characteristics already published. Longshore transport of about 1 × 106 m3/year is directed in a net eastward fashion across the inlet because of an in‐built misalignment of the harbour training walls. Approximately 90% of the drift is bypassed, and has been since 1921, by deflection and splitting of the main sediment streams through the inner and outer bars and a transverse channel aoross the entrance. The outer bar appears to be the submarine, downdrift extension of Carters Breach and river load appears to contribute an order of magnitude less sediment to the complex than annual littoral drift. River sediments and littoral drift are mixed off the harbour and a declining proportion over time is recirculated to cause progradation of North Beach. The tidal compartment contributes little to scour of the entrance because of the predominance of bar bypassing. Contrary to the recommendations of several past studies, it is argued that improvements in navigation depths at West‐port are more likely to be obtained through modification of the littoral drift system than they are from tidal compartment enlargement. 相似文献
18.
长江河口最大浑浊带含沙量垂线分布状态的分析 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
计算表明,潮泵效应在长江河口最大浑浊带悬沙输移中起着重要的作用。含沙量垂线分布的潮周期变化反映悬沙与床沙之间存在双向交换。据此讨论了最大浑浊带与拦门沙的关系。 相似文献
19.
A. Pacheco J.J. Williams Ó. Ferreira E. Garel S. Reynolds 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2011
This paper derives local formulae to estimate bed roughness and suspended transport and present a method to calculate net sediment transport at tidal inlet systems, combining field data and a range of well established empirical formulations. To accomplish this, measurements spanning a spring-tidal cycle of mean water levels, waves, near-bed flow turbulence and bed forms were obtained from the Ancão Inlet, Ria Formosa lagoon system, Portugal. High-resolution hydrodynamic data were gathered using acoustic equipments and by measuring sediment properties (grain-size diameter and bed form dimensions) under fair-weather conditions. The results compared favourably with available direct and indirect field observations of sediment transport rates. The approach appears to be robust and widely applicable and so can be applied to the same conditions in any tidal inlet system. This is of particular importance when attempting to understand sediment transport at inlet mouths, and has practical applications in a range of coastal engineering and coastal management areas concerned with navigation safety, coastal erosion, ecosystem health and water quality. The study discusses the applicability of the method on evaluating system flushing capacity, giving important insights on multiple inlet evolution, particularly with regard to their persistence through time. The methodological framework can be applied to assess the long-term stability of single- and multiple-inlet systems, provided that estimates of sediment storage at ebb-tidal deltas are available and sediment transport estimates during storm events are statistically considered. 相似文献
20.
A study of suspended sediment concentration in the buoyant plume of the Fraser River, Canada, showed that unstratified flow conditions at the river mouth caused resuspension of sandy bed material and high concentrations of coarse sediment. When flow at the mouth was stratified, sediment was fine-grained and concentrations were low. Application of a multivariate model revealed that suspended sediment concentration along the plume axis was controlled primarily by distance seaward of the river mouth, secondly by tidal height, and least by sediment concentration in the river. 相似文献