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1.
应用二阶完全非线性Boussinesq方程模拟破碎波浪   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1       下载免费PDF全文
建立了基于高阶Boussinesq水波方程的一维波浪破碎数值模型。基于一组具有二阶完全非线性特征的Boussinesq水波方程,建立了交错网格下的高精度差分格式,推导了适用于该组方程的永形波解析解,其和松弛造波技术相结合实现了数值波浪水槽中(强)非线性波浪的无反射入射。通过模拟封闭容器内水体晃动问题对数值格式进行了验证,通过模拟孤立波在斜坡海岸上的浅化过程说明了将方程从弱非线性发展到完全非线性的必要性。采用涡粘方法处理波浪破碎,利用物理模型实验数据,分析了模型中各波浪破碎参数对数值结果的影响并对参数进行了率定。应用该模型对规则波在斜坡海岸上的传播、变浅以及破碎过程进行了数值模拟研究,数值结果同实验数据吻合良好,验证了模型的有效性。  相似文献   

2.
从理论分析、系列物理模型和数学模型三个方面对物理模型变率影响研究的进展情况作了概述。着重介绍了采用系列概化物理模型试验研究潮流和潮流、波浪共同作用下的模型变率影响问题,给出了进行潮流、波浪和泥沙物理模型的变率限制条件。  相似文献   

3.
采用理论分析和物理模拟相结合的方法对地震剖面中的波场成份进行了综合研究,波动理论研究表明,地震剖面含有多种波场信息成份,组成了一个各种成份各具变化特征的复合波场,这种复合波场含有P波和PS波成份等。在物理模型中,采用了较先进的实验系统,设计了砂泥岩组成的三层地层模型,(20-280-1220)观测系统,采样率为0.25ms。实验得到了三层地层模型的地震剖面,对所获得的地震剖面进行了波场特征分析,实验地震剖面中含有多种波场成份(P波、PS波和面波等)。波场理论研究结果得到物理模型实验的证实,表明地震剖面属复合波场剖面。这种叠后地震剖面可直接用于进行叠后弹性参数反演等以挖掘更多的有效地质信息,提高勘探效果,扩大地震剖面的应用范围。  相似文献   

4.
浅水波浪数值模型SWAN的原理及应用综述   总被引:14,自引:0,他引:14       下载免费PDF全文
概述了模拟海岸、河口的浅水波浪数值模型研究现状、存在的问题以及用能量平衡方程预报海浪的发展历史。介绍了基于当代最新波浪理论研究成果的第三代浅水波浪数值模型SWAN模型,对模型的适用性、数值特性、功能及局限性进行了阐述。介绍动谱平衡方程数学模型、方程离散要求、边界条件的处理和源项(包括能量输入、损耗及波与波之间非线性相互作用)的处理方法,重点介绍三相波非线性相互作用。模拟海安湾有效波高、波周期场,并分析波与波之间非线性相互作用对波浪要素预报的影响,最后对SWAN模型的应用前景和研究趋势进行了展望。  相似文献   

5.
通过在波浪水槽中进行一系列物理模型试验研究规则波作用下刚性挺水植物波生流特性,测试了2种水深和不同入射波况条件下的波生时均流速并对比了挺水植物有茎与无茎时波生流的情况,基于假设检验分别对挺水植物的拖曳力长度尺度、植物特征参数建立模型。研究结果表明:在茎密度为60株/m2时,波生流仍以根部作用为主要因素,对沉水植物公式进行拓展,据此提出挺水植物时均流速最大值预测公式;茎部对时均流速均方根具有衰减作用,且茎部在根部及根部上方区域产生的相对衰减强度,与厄塞尔数呈抛物线函数关系;在簇状根系分布下,茎部对垂向流速结构起稳定作用,尤其是在时均流速最大值所对应的量纲一垂直位置。  相似文献   

6.
利用高阶边界元方法求解拉普拉斯方程,建立了模拟完全非线性聚焦波的时域数值模型,其中追踪流体自由表面的方法为满足完全非线性自由水面条件的半混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法,运用四阶Runga-Kutta方法计算每一时间步新的波面高度和速度势,同时通过入射边界给定速度的二阶Stokes解析解产生波浪,并应用镜像格林函数消除水槽两个侧面和底面上的积分。对不同波陡的聚焦波群在水槽中开展了物理模型实验,并把试验结果和数值结果进行了对比,两者吻合得很好,然后对非线性条件下聚焦波的特点进行了研究。  相似文献   

7.
珊瑚礁海岸水动力学问题研究综述   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1       下载免费PDF全文
姚宇 《水科学进展》2019,30(1):139-152
珊瑚礁水动力学是一个涉及生态、环境、地质和工程学的交叉课题,其水动力学研究不仅为珊瑚礁海域生态系统的维护和海岸线的演变提供一定的理论参考,还能为海岸的防灾减灾以及岛礁工程的建设提供一定的决策依据。回顾了国内外珊瑚礁海岸水动力问题的研究与进展,从现场观测、理论模型、物理模型试验和数值模型4个方面对当前该领域的研究进展进行了综述,并提出今后现场观测研究对象可关注南中国海的珊瑚岛礁,理论分析方法可侧重考虑非线性波浪理论,物理模型试验可采用大型波浪水槽和港池来复演现场尺度的水动力问题,数值模型可采用计算流体力学(Computational Fluid Dynamics,CFD)方法对波浪与珊瑚礁相互作用进行精细化模拟,本文旨在为今后国内珊瑚礁水动力学方面的相关研究提供一定的借鉴和参考。  相似文献   

8.
潮滩剖面形态与泥沙分选研究进展   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1       下载免费PDF全文
潮滩剖面形态与多组分泥沙分选是海岸动力学与河口、海岸地貌学的重要研究内容,对保持生物多样性、研究沉积历史和沿海工程评估等具有重要的实际意义。从现场观测、理论解析和数值模拟等方面,归纳了在潮滩剖面形态特征与多组分泥沙分选方面研究的主要进展。回顾了潮滩剖面形态分别在潮流和波浪主导下的经典理论解析解,剖析了包括潮流、波浪泥沙来源及特性等主要影响因子以及植被、海平面上升、围垦工程等其他影响因子对潮滩剖面形态水平向、垂向泥沙分选过程的作用机理,同时提出了考虑水动力、生物作用、人类活动等多因子耦合作用下潮滩演变研究以及定量化预测方向的若干亟待解决的科学问题。  相似文献   

9.
波流共存场中多向随机波浪传播变形数学模型   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1       下载免费PDF全文
基于波作用量守恒方程建立了波流共存场中多向随机波浪传播变形数学模型,模型中考虑了波浪绕射的影响和水流引起的波浪弥散多普勒效应,应用包含水流和地形影响的激破波模式计算波浪破碎的能量耗散,采用一阶上迎风有限差分格式离散控制方程。分别计算了有无近岸流情况下单向和多向随机波浪的波高分布,考虑水流影响的数值计算结果与物理模型实验数据吻合良好,比较分析表明,所建立的数学模型能够复演由于离岸流引起的波高增大,可用于波流共存场多向随机波浪传播变形的模拟和预报。  相似文献   

10.
波浪作用下沙坝剖面形成过程的数值模拟   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3       下载免费PDF全文
建立了波浪、底部离岸流、泥沙运动和沙滩剖面演变耦合数学模型,模拟了实验室中波浪作用下沙坝剖面的形成过程,讨论了各个物理参数对剖面上的水动力和地形变化的影响。通过参数率定,较好地复演了不规则波作用下沙滩地形由均匀斜坡向沙坝剖面的演变,波高、底部离岸流、输沙率和剖面演变的计算结果与实测数据吻合良好。采用数值实验和误差分析方法,讨论了破碎波水滚倾角、泥沙扩散系数和床面休止角等物理参数对计算结果的影响。研究表明,所建立的模型能较好地描述波浪作用下沙坝剖面形成过程中的重要物理机制。  相似文献   

11.
Devastating tsunami waves can change the coastal morphology considerably. The effects of vegetation to coastal morphodynamics have been of primary interest for decades, because of their role in coastal protection and ecological environment. The damping of wave and impact of beach evolution are the two significant contributions on emerged vegetation. However, the laboratory study of tsunami erosion and deposition under protection of coastal vegetation was less understood compared to tsunami run-up and tsunami inundation. A set of laboratory experiments were reported in this study on changes of size-selective sandy beach profile under the protection of rigid emergent vegetation. The total of fifteen experiments was carried out in a wave flume including two initial profiles (with vegetation and none vegetation), three different wave conditions and four forest densities. The experiments show that rigid emergent vegetation changes the depth and location of tsunami deposition and erosion in sandy beach. The dimensionless numbers were derived to characterize the cross-shore beach profile response under the protection of rigid emergent vegetation. These parameters were written as a dimensionless group, and based upon this present experimental datum, the empirical equations were developed. The study reveals the internal connection among tsunami deposition and erosion, wave height and forest density. The findings of this study have the potential to assist the tsunami hazards prevention and mitigation.  相似文献   

12.
Deltaic landscapes, such as the Mississippi River Delta, are sites of extensive conversion of wetlands to open water, where increased fetch may contribute to erosion of marsh edges, increasing wetland loss. A field experiment conducted during a storm passage tested this process through the observations of wave orbital and current velocities in the fringe zone of a deteriorating saltmarsh in Terrebonne Bay, Louisiana. Incident waves seaward of the marsh edge and wave orbital and current velocities immediate landward of the marsh edge were measured. Through a dimensional analysis, it shows that the current and orbital velocities in the marsh fringe were controlled by the incident waves, inundation depth, submergence ratio, and vegetation density. Similarly, it is shown that the longshore currents in the inundated saltmarsh fringe depended on the local wave-induced momentum flux, vegetation submergence, and vegetation density in the fringe zone. The cross-shore current showed the presence of a return flow in the lower region of the velocity profile. A high correlation between the current direction and the local flow-wave energy ratio as well as the vegetation submergence and density is found, indicating the important role of surface waves in the fringe flow landward of an inundated wetland under storm conditions. The field observations shed light on the potential ecological consequences of increased wave activities in coastal saltmarsh wetlands owing to subsidence, sea level rise, limited sediment supply, increases in wind fetch, and storm intensity.  相似文献   

13.
古风力是一项重要的古气候指标,其定量恢复是一个难题。风作用于水体产生的波浪大小间接地反映了风力,能够为古风力的恢复提供思路。发育于破浪带和冲浪回流带的破浪沙坝、沿岸沙坝分别记录了破浪和冲浪过程,作者分别介绍利用古湖泊中发育的破浪沙坝和沿岸沙坝进行古波况和古风力恢复的原理和操作流程。(1)根据破浪沙坝的几何形态,可以将其厚度与破浪水深建立函数关系,而破浪水深又由破浪波高决定,因此破浪沙坝厚度可以恢复破浪波高,据此可以进一步根据波浪统计关系恢复有效波高、根据风浪关系恢复风力。此方法依托以下3个参数: 单期次的破浪沙坝厚度、破浪沙坝的基座坡角、古风程。(2)沿岸沙坝厚度近似记录了冲浪的极限高度,后者受控于有效波高,据此也可以恢复有效波高和风力。此方法依托以下5个参数: 单期次的沿岸沙坝厚度、古(平均)水深、古风程、古风向相对于岸线的入射角、组成沿岸沙坝的沉积物粒度。上述2种方法综合性较强,涉及古风向、古地形坡度、风程或盆地直径、古水深等参数的恢复,需要综合运用古地貌恢复、去压实校正、古岸线识别、古水深恢复等技术,并需要结合波浪理论。古湖泊滨岸带地层中保存有大量的滩坝沉积,利用其恢复古波况和古风况具有一定的应用前景,能够有助于更详细地重建沉积盆地的古地理背景。  相似文献   

14.
本文系统研究了小浪底工程的岩体的强度特征,采用了室内试验,野外结构面统计,工程地质类比法、模型试验法和Hoek Brown的经验法,估算了工程岩体的力学指标,指出了上述各种方法中所存在的不足,认为在工程实践中,应尽可能使用多种估计方法,交叉校核所得参数,以提高参数的可靠性,保证工程的安全,节约投资。  相似文献   

15.
Coastal ecosystems such as mangroves fringing tropical coastlines have been recognized as natural protectors of the coastal areas against destructive attack of a tsunami. In this paper, the authors aim to investigate the interaction of a tsunami wave on a typical mangrove forest and to determine its performance in reducing the run-up. A laboratory experiment using a hydraulic flume with a mangrove forest model was carried out in which tests were conducted by varying the vegetation widths of 0, 1, 2 and 3?m and average densities of 8, 6 and 4 trees per 100?cm2 using a scale ratio of 1:100. Two conditions of water levels were considered in the experiments at several tsunami wave heights between 2.4 and 14?cm. The dam break method used in the experiments produced two types of waves. At low water condition, a bore was developed and subsequently, a solitary wave was produced during high water. The results of the experiments showed that in general, vegetation widths and densities demonstrate a dampening effect on tsunami run-up. A larger vegetation width was found to be more effective in dissipating the wave energy. The first 1?m width of mangrove forest could reduce 23?C32?% during high water and 31?C36?% during low water. Increasing the mangrove forest width to 2 and 3?m could further increase the average percentage of run-up reduction by 39?C50?% during high water and 34?C41?% during low water condition. It was also observed that densities of the mangrove forest do not influence the run-up reduction as significantly as the forest widths. For mangrove forest densities to be significantly enough to reduce more tsunami run-up, an additional density of 4 trees/100?m2 needs to be provided. The experiments also showed that mangrove roots are more effective in reducing the run-up compared to the trunks and canopies. The experiments managed to compare and present the usefulness of mangrove forests in dissipating wave energy and results produced are beneficial for initiating design guidelines in determining setback limits or buffer zones for development projects in mangrove areas.  相似文献   

16.
Advances in the chemical, crystallographic and isotopic characterisation of geological and environmental materials can often be ascribed to technological improvements in analytical hardware or to innovative approaches to data acquisition and/or its interpretation. This biennial review addresses key laboratory methods that form much of the foundation for analytical geochemistry; again, this contribution is presented as a compendium of laboratory techniques. We highlight advances that have appeared since January 2012 and that are of particular significance for the chemical and isotopic characterisation of geomaterials. Prominent scientists from the selected analytical fields present publications they judge to be particular noteworthy, providing background information about the method and assessing where further opportunities might be anticipated. In addition to the well‐established technologies such as thermal ionisation mass spectrometry and plasma emission spectroscopy, this publication also presents new or rapidly growing methods such as electron backscattered diffraction analysis and atom probe tomography – a very sensitive method providing atomic scale information.  相似文献   

17.
地震纵横波层析成像速度与岩土弹性力学参数有关,多道面波分析(MASW)采用类似二维反射地震处理,得到共中点互相关道集(CMPCC)提取面波频散曲线,由面波频散曲线反演二维速度结构,在岩土结构分层等方面有良好的效果。通过同一剖面的折射地震波层析成像得到纵波速度结构,对岩土层的动弹模量和泊松比等力学参数进行分析,为下一步地质工程设计及岩土力学试验提供参考。  相似文献   

18.
Floodplain ecosystems are affected by flood dynamics, nutrient supply as well as anthropogenic activities. Heavy metal pollution poses a serious environmental challenge. Pollution transfer from the soil to vegetation is still present at the central location of Elbe River, Germany. The goal of this study was to assess and separate the current heavy metal contamination of the floodplain ecosystem, using spectrometric field and laboratory measurements. A standardized pot experiment with floodplain vegetation in differently contaminated soils provided the basis for the measurements. The dominant plant types of the floodplains are: Urtica dioica, Phalaris arundinacea and Alopecurus pratensis, these were also chemically analysed. Various vegetation indices and methods were used to estimate the red edge position, to normalise the spectral curve of the vegetation and to investigate the potential of different methods for separating plant stress in floodplain vegetation. The main task was to compare spectral bands during phenological phases to find a method to detect heavy metal stress in plants. A multi-level algorithm for the curve parameterisation was developed. Chemo-analytical and ecophysiological parameters of plants were considered in the results and correlated with spectral data. The results of this study show the influence of heavy metals on the spectral characteristics of the focal plants. The developed method (depth CR1730) showed significant relationship between the plants and the contamination.  相似文献   

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