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1.
In Kikai‐jima, south‐western Japan, many pedestal rocks have developed on the surface of Holocene raised coral‐reef terraces with known dates of emergence. Pedestals are formed just under boulders, which are considered to have been transported by tsunami and settled on a reef flat before emergence. On the assumption that boulders protect the underlying limestone terrace from rainfall solution, the rate of surface lowering of these limestone terraces was evaluated from the height of pedestals and the period of their formation. The result showed that the mean lowering rate over 6000 years is 205 mm/ky. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
Development of a notch at the base of a cliff reduces cliff stability and often induces a collapse. Pleistocene limestone coastal cliffs of elevation 5?m in Kuro‐shima, Ryukyu Islands, have a prominent notch with a depth of 3–4?m at their bases. Around these coastal cliffs, collapses different from previous studies of cliff collapses in the Ryukyu Islands were found; collapses in Kuro‐shima have a horizontal failure surface. The horizontal failure surface, situated at the height of the failure surface corresponding to the retreat point of the notch, is bounded by vertical joints cutting the whole cliff and the reef flat in front of the cliff. Two types of horizontal failure surface were found, triangular and quadrangular; the distinction appears to depend on the angle between the vertical joints and the front face of the cliff. Prior to collapse, these cliffs appear to have been separated from the adjacent cliffs by the development of vertical joints. Consequently, a cliff that will collapse can be identified in advance; cliff instability is strongly dependent on the development of a notch. To study the effect of notch development on cliff collapse, the notch depth at which collapse occurs was calculated using stability analysis. Instability of a cliff increases with notch depth; collapse occurs at the horizontal failure surface when the ratio of the notch depth to the seaward length of the cliff is approximately 0·5–0·7 for a triangular failure surface, and 0·7–0·9 for a quadrangular failure surface. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
Erosion of hard‐rock coastal cliffs is understood to be caused by a combination of both marine and sub‐aerial processes. Beach morphology, tidal elevation and significant wave heights, especially under extreme storm conditions, can lead to variability in wave energy flux to the cliff‐toe. Wave and water level measurements in the nearshore under energetic conditions are difficult to obtain and in situ observations are rare. Here we use monthly cliff‐face volume changes detected using terrestrial laser scanning alongside beach morphological changes and modelled nearshore hydrodynamics to examine how exposed cliffs respond to changes in extreme wave conditions and beach morphology. The measurements cover the North Atlantic storms of 2013 to 2014 and consider two exposed stretches of coastline (Porthleven and Godrevy, UK) with contrasting beach morphology fronting the cliffs; a flat dissipative sandy beach at Godrevy and a steep reflective gravel beach at Porthleven. Beach slope and the elevation of the beach–cliff junction were found to influence the frequency of cliff inundation and the power of wave–cliff impacts. Numerical modelling (XBeach‐G) showed that under highly energetic wave conditions, i.e. those that occurred in the North Atlantic during winter 2013–2014, with Hs = 5.5 m (dissipative site) and 8 m (reflective site), the combination of greater wave height and steeper beach at the reflective site led to amplified wave run‐up, subjecting these cliffs to waves over four times as powerful as those impacting the cliffs at the dissipative site (39 kWm‐1 compared with 9 kWm‐1). This study highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to extreme wave conditions, where the majority (over 90% of the annual value) of cliff‐face erosion ensued during the winter. The significance of these short‐term erosion rates in the context of long‐term retreat illustrates the importance of incorporating short‐term beach and wave dynamics into geomorphological studies of coastal cliff change. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

4.
Extreme wave events in coastal zones are principal drivers of geomorphic change. Evidence of boulder entrainment and erosional impact during storms is increasing. However, there is currently poor time coupling between pre‐ and post‐storm measurements of coastal boulder deposits. Importantly there are no data reporting shore platform erosion, boulder entrainment and/or boulder transport during storm events – rock coast dynamics during storm events are currently unexplored. Here, we use high‐resolution (daily) field data to measure and characterize coastal boulder transport before, during and after the extreme Northeast Atlantic extra‐tropical cyclone Johanna in March 2008. Forty‐eight limestone fine‐medium boulders (n = 46) and coarse cobbles (n = 2) were tracked daily over a 0.1 km2 intertidal area during this multi‐day storm. Boulders were repeatedly entrained, transported and deposited, and in some cases broken down (n = 1) or quarried (n = 3), during the most intense days of the storm. Eighty‐one percent (n = 39) of boulders were located at both the start and end of the storm. Of these, 92% were entrained where entrainment patterns were closely aligned to wave parameters. These data firmly demonstrate rock coasts are dynamic and vulnerable under storm conditions. No statistically significant relationship was found between boulder size (mass) and net transport distance. Graphical analyses suggest that boulder size limits the maximum longshore transport distance but that for the majority of boulders lying under this threshold, other factors influence transport distance. Paired analysis of 20 similar sized and shaped boulders in different morphogenic zones demonstrates that geomorphological control affects entrainment and transport distance – where net transport distances were up to 39 times less where geomorphological control was greatest. These results have important implications for understanding and for accurately measuring and modelling boulder entrainment and transport. Coastal managers require these data for assessing erosion risk. © 2016 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
Boulder transport is an area of growing interest to coastal scientists as a means of improving our understanding of the complex interactions between extreme wave activity and the evolution of rocky coasts. However, our knowledge of the response of intertidal boulder deposits to contemporary storm events remains limited due to a lack of quantifiable field-based evidence. We address this by presenting a methodology incorporating Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) tagging and Differential Global Positioning Navigation Satellite System (DGNSS) technology to monitor and accurately quantify the displacement of RFID tagged boulders resulting from storm wave activity. Based on preliminary findings we highlight the suitability of the technology and methodology to better understand the spatial and temporal response of intertidal boulders to contemporary storm events. We inserted RFID tags in 104 limestone boulders (intermediate axes from 0.27 to 2.85 m) across a range of morphogenic settings at two sites on the intertidal shore platforms at Bembridge, Isle of Wight (UK). Fifteen topographic surveys were conducted between July 2015 and May 2017 to relocate and record tagged boulder locations (tag recovery rate: 91%). The relocated boulder coordinate data from both sites identified 164 individual transport events in 63% of the tagged boulder array amounting to 184.6 m of transport, including the displacement of a boulder weighing more than 10 tonnes. Incidents of boulder quarrying and overturning during transport were also recorded, demonstrating that despite the relatively sheltered location, intertidal boulders are created and regularly transported under moderate storm conditions. This suggests that contemporary storm events have a greater propensity to mobilise boulders in the intertidal range than has previously been realised. Consequently, by documenting our methodology we provide guidance to others and promote further use of RFID technology to enable new hypotheses on boulder transport to be tested in a range of field settings and wave regimes. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
The Meiwa Tsunami, one of the largest tsunamis recorded in historical documents in Japan struck Ishigaki Island and neighboring islands of the Ryukyu Arc in April 1771 AD, killing more than 12 000 people. An enormous number of massive Porites coral boulders are scattered on the shore and in the reef moat of eastern Ishigaki Island. Although these boulders likely were cast ashore by the Meiwa Tsunami, a detailed examination has not yet been conducted. When the marine reservoir effect is taken into account, one of mode values of calibrated radiocarbon dates possibly corresponds to the time of the 1771 event. However, the range of calibrated radiocarbon ages indicates that the transport of the boulders cannot be ascribed solely to the tsunami. Oxygen isotope microprofiling, which indicates sea-surface temperature variation, was therefore conducted to further investigate the mechanism of transport. The results suggest that the skeletal growth of most coral colonies was interrupted in summer or autumn; hence, tropical storms and typhoons are also very likely to be agents of transport. Thus, by combining radiocarbon dating with oxygen isotope microprofiling to investigate Porites coral boulders, it is possible to separate paleotsunami boulders from those transported by storm events as far as tsunamis occurred during the non-storm season.  相似文献   

7.
Well‐sorted detrital limestone is one of the typical lithofacies of the latest interval of the Pleistocene Ryukyu Group, which is exposed in the Ryukyu Archipelago in southwestern Japan. The depositional environments of the limestone are interpreted to be extremely shallow and to include back‐reef lagoons or moats and subaerial sand dunes. However, detailed micropaleontological analyses have not been performed on this limestone. In this study, the interpretation of the depositional environments and paleo‐water depths was improved by quantitative examination of foraminiferal assemblages for the well‐sorted detrital limestone of the Minatogawa Formation in the southern part of Okinawa Island. Thin sections of limestone collected from the Minatogawa (Horikawa) quarry were subjected to sedimentological and foraminiferal analyses. Comparison with modern foraminiferal distribution within the Ryukyu Archipelago indicates that back‐reef and fore‐reef dwelling foraminifers characterize the fossil assemblages from the well‐sorted detrital limestone (bioclastic grainstone). Three ratios of indicator foraminiferal taxa (ratios of back‐reef to fore‐reef taxa, planktonic foraminifers to Amphistegina lobifera and Amphistegina lessonii, and Calcarina gaudichaudii to other Calcarina species), as well as multivariate analyses suggest that the well‐sorted detrital limestone was deposited in fore‐reef setting shallower than 40 m in water depth. A comparable depth range was reconstructed from the coral assemblage in the associated coral limestone, suggesting that the Minatogawa Formation was deposited in a gently inclined ramp setting with patch reefs and/or fringing reefs. Stratigraphic changes in paleo‐water depth, together with evidence of several unconformities associated with paleosol layers suggest that there were repeated transgressions and regressions, with an amplitude up to several tens of meters, when the Minatogawa Formation was deposited.  相似文献   

8.
This study investigates the distribution of boulders at Miyara Bay of Ishigaki Island, Japan. These boulders were deposited on a reef flat extending approximately 400–1300 m in width. Most boulders were rectangular to ellipsoidal, without sharp broken edges. They are reef and coral rock fragments estimated as <335 m3 (<633 t). Locally in the bay, the relationship between the boulder weight and position shows that boulders of a given weight have a clear limit on seaward distribution on the reef flat. For example, more than 1, 10, and 100 tons of boulders were deposited, respectively, more than 500, 300, and 100 m from the reef edge. The line is consistent with the possible landward transport limit by maximum storm waves at the Ryukyu Islands, suggesting that the line was formed by the reworking of some boulders by maximally strong storm waves, although we can not exclude the possibility that the line was formed by tsunamis. Furthermore, 68% of boulders at the bay are deposited beyond this line. Therefore, the presence of these boulders at their present positions is difficult to explain solely by storm waves, implying the possible tsunami origin of these boulders. The boulders are characteristically concentrated along the high‐tide line, suggesting the drastic reduction of the tsunami hydraulic force along the line. Previous studies using radiocarbon age dating, as well as our study, imply that at least 69 boulders at Miyara Bay were probably deposited at their present positions by the 1771 Meiwa tsunami, although some of these boulders might have been emplaced and displaced on the reef flat by prior tsunami or storm surges.  相似文献   

9.
Extreme storm events are known to produce, entrain, transport and deposit sizable boulders along rocky coastlines. However, the extent to which these processes occur under moderate, fetch-limited wave conditions is seldom considered. In this study we quantify boulder transport at a relatively sheltered location subject to high-frequency, low-magnitude storm activity. This was achieved by deploying radio frequency identification (RFID) tags within 104 intertidal limestone boulders ranging in size from fine to very coarse (intermediate axis: 0.27–2.85 m). The study was conducted over 3 years (July 2015–July 2018) and encompassed numerous storm events. Tagged boulders were relocated during 17 field surveys and their positions recorded using a differential global positioning navigation satellite system (DGNSS). On completion, we identified boulder displacement in 69% of the tagged array. The accrued boulder transport distance amounted to 233.0 m from 195 incidents of displacement, including the movement of a boulder weighing an estimated 11.9 t. Transport was not confined to autumn and winter storms alone, as displacement was also recorded during summer months (April–September), despite the seasonally reduced wave magnitude. Boulder production by wave quarrying was documented in three tagged clasts, confirming observations that the shore platform is actively eroding. Incidents of overturning during transport were also recorded, including multiple overturning of clasts weighing up to 5 t. We further identify a statistically significant difference (maximum p-value ≤ 0.03) between the transport distances attributed to constrained and unconstrained boulders, suggesting that the pre-transport morphological setting exerts considerable control over boulder transport potential. The findings establish low to moderate storm waves as a key component in the evolution of the study site. More broadly, we claim that high-frequency, low-magnitude storms regularly modify these overlooked rocky coastal locations, suggesting that the hydrodynamic capability at such sites may previously have been underestimated. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
Tsunami boulders deposited along the coast constitute important geological evidence for paleotsunami activity. However, boulders can also be deposited by large storm waves. Although several sedimentological and theoretical methods have been proposed to differentiate tsunami and storm wave affected boulders, no appropriate numerical method exists for their differentiation. Therefore, we developed a new numerical scheme to differentiate tsunami and storm wave boulders for coastal boulders on Ishigaki Island, Japan. In this area, tsunami and storm waves have emplaced numerous boulders on the reef and the coast. By conducting numerical calculations of storm waves in this region, we estimated the size of a storm wave that can explain the maximum clast size distribution of boulders on the reef. Consequently, we showed that a wave with a combination of 8 m in initial wave height and 10 s period can satisfy the above conditions when we assume mean sea level. In contrast to the boulders on the reef, all boulders deposited along the shore are heavier than the calculated possible maximum clast size distribution by the storm wave. Therefore, we confirmed these boulders as being of tsunami origin. Results of previous studies showed that they were most likely deposited or reworked by the 1771 Meiwa tsunami. Then, using the tsunami boulders, we numerically estimated the wave period and amplitude of the 1771 Meiwa tsunami, which should have had a 4–5 min period and 5.6–5.9, 6.3–7.0 m amplitude, respectively. Using the proposed scheme, it is possible to differentiate tsunami and storm wave boulders and estimate the size of past storm waves and tsunami waves, although it is noteworthy that there are exceptions for which the scheme cannot be applied.  相似文献   

11.
The water storage and energy transfer roles of supraglacial ponds are poorly constrained, yet they are thought to be important components of debris‐covered glacier ablation budgets. We used an unmanned surface vessel (USV) to collect sonar depth measurements for 24 ponds to derive the first empirical relationship between their area and volume applicable to the size distribution of ponds commonly encountered on debris‐covered glaciers. Additionally, we instrumented nine ponds with thermistors and three with pressure transducers, characterizing their thermal regime and capturing three pond drainage events. The deepest and most irregularly‐shaped ponds were those associated with ice cliffs, which were connected to the surface or englacial hydrology network (maximum depth = 45.6 m), whereas hydrologically‐isolated ponds without ice cliffs were both more circular and shallower (maximum depth = 9.9 m). The englacial drainage of three ponds had the potential to melt ~100 ± 20 × 103 kg to ~470 ± 90 × 103 kg of glacier ice owing to the large volumes of stored water. Our observations of seasonal pond growth and drainage with their associated calculations of stored thermal energy have implications for glacier ice flow, the progressive enlargement and sudden collapse of englacial conduits, and the location of glacier ablation hot‐spots where ponds and ice cliffs interact. Additionally, the evolutionary trajectory of these ponds controls large proglacial lake formation in deglaciating environments. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
Clifftop coastal boulders transported by storm waves or tsunamis have been reported around the world. Although numerical calculation of boulder transport is a strong tool for the identification of tsunami or storm boulders, and for estimation of the wave size emplacing boulders, models which can reasonably solve boulder transport from below a cliff or from a cliff-edge onto a cliff-top do not yet exist. In this study, we developed a new numerical formulation for cliff-top deposition of boulders from the cliff edge or below the cliff, with validation from laboratory tests. We then applied the model using storm and tsunami wave forcing to simulate the observed boulder deposits at the northwest coast of Hachijo Island, Japan. Using the model, the actual distribution of boulders was explained well using a reasonable storm wave height without assumption of anomalously high-water level by storm surge. Results show that boulder transport from the cliff edge or under the cliff onto the cliff-top was possible from a tsunami with periods of 5~10 min or storm waves with no storm surge. However, the actual distribution of boulders on the cliff was explained only by storm waves, but not by tsunami. Therefore, the boulders distributed at this site are likely of storm wave origin. Our developed model for the boulder transport calculation can be useful for identifying a boulder's origin and can reasonably calculate cliff-top deposition of boulders by tsunami and storm waves. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
Determination of the rate and total amount of limestone pavement surface lowering is a critical issue in developing models of regional landscape change in limestone terrain. Erratic‐capped pedestals have frequently been used for this purpose but problems concerning definition and measurement of pedestal height, and the absence of a secure timeframe for erratic emplacement, have resulted in conflicting interpretations. We have used cosmogenic (36Cl) to establish the emplacement age of erratic boulders and the total amount of pavement surface lowering at sites in northwest England. Since erratic emplacement at 17.9 ka the limestone pavement has been lowered by 22–45 cm (average: 33 ± 10 cm), assuming lowering was continuous. Although indicating some spatial heterogeneity, the results contrast with earlier reported values based on the measurement of pedestal heights and inferred age for deglaciation. We consider that changes in climate and the character and duration of regolith covers to have been important influences in promoting surface lowering. It is argued that nivation (chemical and mechanical snow‐related processes) associated with several cool/cold periods is likely to have played an important role in surface lowering. Complicating factors associated with surface lowering (thickness and longevity of snow and regolith covers) are identified but as yet cannot be quantified. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

14.
Sea stacks are common and striking coastal landforms, but few details are known about how, how quickly, and under what conditions they form. We present numerical and analytical models of sea stack formation due to preferential erosion along a pre‐existing headland to address these basic questions. On sediment‐rich rocky coasts, as sea cliffs erode and retreat, they produce beach sediment that is distributed by alongshore sediment transport and controls future sea cliff retreat rates. Depending on their width, beaches can encourage or discourage sea cliff erosion by acting either as an abrasive tool or a protective cover that dissipates wave energy seaward of the cliff. Along the flanks of rocky headlands where pocket beaches are often curved and narrow due to wave field variability, abrasion can accelerate alongshore‐directed sea cliff erosion. Eventually, abrasion‐induced preferential erosion can cut a channel through a headland, separating it from the mainland to become a sea stack. Under a symmetrical wave climate (i.e. equal influence of waves approaching the coastline from the right and from the left), numerical and analytical model results suggest that sea stack formation time and plan‐view size are proportional to preferential erosion intensity (caused by, for example, abrasion and/or local rock weakness from joints, faults, or fractures) and initial headland aspect ratio, and that sea stack formation is discouraged when the sediment input from sea cliff retreat is too high (i.e. sea cliffs retreat quickly or are sand‐rich). When initial headland aspect ratio is too small, and the headland is ‘rounded’ (much wider in the alongshore direction at its base than at its seaward apex), the headland is less conducive to sea stack formation. On top of these geomorphic and morphologic controls, a highly asymmetrical wave climate decreases sea stack size and discourages stack formation through rock–sediment interactions. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
Salt-marsh cliffs in the muddy Severn Estuary are mostly strong and tall. They are retreating in response to the erosive attack of wave and tidal currents chiefly through toppling failures and rotational slips. In the sandy Solway Firth and Morecambe Bay systems, marsh cliffs are strong only in their upper parts, where a dense root-mat of marsh grasses binds the sediments. Here cantilever and toppling failures are the main response of the cliffs to tidal and wave erosion The differences between the three estuarine systems in the mechanisms of marsh-cliff erosion are partly reflected in the mode of preservation of the cliffs on the restoration of the conditions leading to renewal of marsh growth.  相似文献   

16.
Instability investigation of cantilevered seacliffs   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
Wave action is a fundamental mechanism in seacliff erosion, whereby wave undercutting creates an unstable cantilevered seacliff profile and can lead to large catastrophic cliff failures, thus threatening coastal infrastructure. This study investigated the instability of two such failures that occurred in Solana Beach, California, by combining terrestrial LIDAR scanning, cantilever beam theory and finite element analysis. Each landslide was detected by evaluating the surface change between subsequent high resolution digital terrain models derived from terrestrial LIDAR data. The dimensions of failed cantilever masses were determined using the surface change measurements and then incorporated into failure stress analysis. Superimposing stress distributions computed from elastic cantilever beam theory and finite element modeling provided a method to back‐calculate the maximum developed tensile and shear stresses along each failure plane. The results of the stress superposition revealed that the bending stresses caused by the cantilevered load contributed the majority of stress leading to collapse. Both shear and tensile failure modes were investigated as potential cliff failure mechanisms by using a comparison of the back‐calculated failure stresses to material strengths found in laboratory testing. Based on the results of this research, the tensile strength of the cliff material was exceeded at both locations, thus causing the cliffs to collapse in tension. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
Coarse clastic sediments (boulders) on coastlines have seen a groundswell in geomorphic research interest over recent years, associated in part with the potential of boulder evidence for interpreting characteristics of high‐energy wave processes. Yet, the fundamental property of boulder volume is normally difficult to measure accurately owing to complex clast morphology and irregular surface texture. To tackle this problem, this paper concentrates on creating precise, measurable and textured three‐dimensional (3D) models of coastal boulders without physical contact with the object, based on multi‐view image measurement techniques. This method has several advantages over traditional measurements that are inaccurate or alternative solutions using costly techniques such as terrestrial laser scanning. Our methods propose the use of low‐cost equipment (digital cameras) that can be used in various coastal environments to easily acquire numerous images of the object of interest. Initial results can be rapidly assessed in the field for immediate quality control. Resulting 3D models, built from overlapping multi‐view digital photographs, allow the reconstruction of realistic‐looking and textured boulder surfaces. A particular interest in this task is the family of algorithms known as structure from motion (SFM). The work presents analysis of SFM techniques by examining 3D models of boulders observed at a coastal field site on Lu Dao Island in south‐eastern Taiwan. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
Field experiments were conducted to investigate the refraction and propagation of ocean waves across two coral reef platforms in the Maldives, central Indian Ocean. A total of seven pressure sensors were deployed on each reef to quantify temporal and spatial variations in wave characteristics across the platform surfaces. Directional wave properties were calculated from high frequency (2 Hz) wave and current records obtained at two locations on each reef and corroborate theoretically predicted propagation pathways derived from an analytical wave refraction model. Results demonstrate that reef geometry critically controls the refraction and propagation behaviour of incident swell across the reef structures. Differences in the magnitude of refraction (approximately 57° and 14°) observed on each reef can be attributed to variations in platform shape and orientation to incident waves. Results demonstrate that reef flat wave patterns define the segmentation of platform surfaces into distinctive high and low wave energy zones. Furthermore, wave focussing has been identified as a major mechanism controlling the transformation of wave energy across the reefs. Results provide the first field‐based validation of wave refraction and convergence on coral reefs and have significant implications for sedimentation processes and the formation of platform deposits. Reef configurations which promote marked wave convergence are more likely to retain sediment on the reef surface, whereas platforms that induce less refraction and changes in the direction of incident waves have a higher potential for the off‐reef evacuation of sediment over leeward reef margins. Results of wave measurements substantiate such projections and provide a first order explanation for the existence and absence of a coral cay on the two study reefs. The study presents empirical evidence of wave refraction and convergence on coral reefs and establishes a baseline for future investigations of hydrodynamic process controls on platform sedimentation and island formation. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
Erosion of volcanic islands ultimately creates shallow banks and guyots, but the ways in which erosion proceeds to create them over time and how the coastline retreat rate relates to wave conditions, rock mass strength and other factors are unclear. The Capelinhos volcano was formed in 1957/58 during a Surtseyan and partly effusive eruption that added an ~2.5 km2 tephra and lava promontory to the western end of Faial Island (Azores, central North Atlantic). Subsequent coastal and submarine erosion has reduced the subaerial area of the promontory and created a submarine platform. This study uses historical information, photos and marine geophysical data collected around the promontory to characterize how the submarine platform developed following the eruption. Historical coastline positions are supplemented with coastlines interpreted from 2004 and 2014 Google Earth images in order to work out the progression of coastline retreat rate and retreat distance for lava- and tephra-dominated cliffs. Data from swath mapping sonars are used to characterize the submarine geometry of the resulting platform (position of the platform edge, gradient and morphology of the platform surface). Photographs collected during SCUBA and ROV dives on the submarine platform reveal a rugged surface now covered with boulders. The results show that coastal retreat rates decreased rapidly with time after the eruption and approximately follow an inverse power-law relationship with coastal retreat distance. We develop a finite-difference model for wave attenuation over dipping surfaces to predict how increasing wave attenuation contributed to this trend. The model is verified by reproducing the wave height variation over dipping rock platforms in the UK (platform gradient 1.2° to 1.8°) and Ireland (1.8°). Applying the model to the dipping platform around Capelinhos, using a diversity of cliff resistance predicted from known lithologies, we are able to predict erosion rate trends for some sectors of the edifice. We also explore wider implications of these results, such as how erosion creates shallow banks and guyots in reef-less mid-oceanic archipelagos like the Azores. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
Chui TF  Terry JP 《Ground water》2012,50(3):412-420
The principal natural source of fresh water on scattered coral atolls throughout the tropical Pacific Ocean is thin unconfined groundwater lenses within islet substrates. Although there are many threats to the viability of atoll fresh water lenses, salinization caused by large storm waves washing over individual atoll islets is poorly understood. In this study, a mathematical modeling approach is used to examine the immediate responses, longer-term behavior, and subsequent (partial) recovery of a Pacific atoll fresh water lens after saline damage caused by cyclone-generated wave washover under different scenarios. Important findings include: (1) the saline plume formed by a washover event mostly migrates downward first through the top coral sand and gravel substrate, but then exits the aquifer to the ocean laterally through the more permeable basement limestone; (2) a lower water table position before the washover event, rather than a longer duration of storm washover, causes more severe damage to the fresh water lens; (3) relatively fresher water can possibly be found as a preserved horizon in the deeper part of an aquifer after disturbance, especially if the fresh water lens extends into the limestone under normal conditions; (4) post-cyclone accumulation of sea water in the central depression (swamp) of an atoll islet prolongs the later stage of fresh water lens recovery.  相似文献   

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