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1.
Ningaloo Reef, located along the northwest coast of Australia, is one of the longest fringing coral reefs in the world extending ~300 km. Similar to other fringing reefs, it consists of a barrier reef ~1–6 km offshore with occasional gaps, backed by a shallow lagoon. Wave breaking on the reef generates radiation stress gradients that produces wave setup across the reef and lagoon and mean currents across the reef. A section of Ningaloo Reef at Sandy Bay was chosen as the focus of an intense 6-week field experiment and numerical simulation using the wave model SWAN coupled to the three-dimensional circulation model ROMS. The physics of nearshore processes such as wave breaking, wave setup and mean flow across the reef was investigated in detail by examining the various momentum balances established in the system. The magnitude of the terms and the distance of their peaks from reef edge in the momentum balance were sensitive to the changes in mean sea level, e.g. the wave forces decreased as the mean water depth increased (and hence, wave breaking dissipation was reduced). This led to an increase in the wave power at the shoreline, a slight shift of the surf zone to the lee side of the reef and changes in the intensity of the circulation. The predicted hydrodynamic fields were input into a Lagrangian particle tracking model to estimate the transport time scale of the reef-lagoon system. Flushing time of the lagoon with the open ocean was computed using two definitions in renewal of semi-enclosed water basins and revealed the sensitivity of such a transport time scale to methods. An increase in the lagoon exchange rate at smaller mean sea-level rise and the decrease at higher mean sea-level rise was predicted through flushing time computed using both methods.  相似文献   

2.
Detailed hydrodynamic and sediment ?ux measurements are reported from 11 hoa (shallow cross‐reef channels) in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Indian Ocean. All hoa exhibit unidirectional oceanside reef to lagoon ?uxes. These currents are driven by tides, wave set‐up and incident waves, and the presence of islands that generate alongshore gradients so that currents ?ow toward the topographic low points of hoa entrances in the reef rim. Two functional groups of hoa are identi?ed that extend Chevalier's typology of hoa and possess different process signatures. Sediment‐limited hoa (SLH) are ef?cient conduits of sediment transport. They are located close to the reef rim where incident wave energy propagates across the reef crest into the hoa and is able to entrain sediment. Transport‐limited hoa (TLH) are characterized by low rates of sediment transport because incident wave energy is negligible as they are located much further from the reef edge than SLH. In the absence of an entrainment mechanism the oceanside reef ?at is laden with sediment. Storm energy increases transport ef?ciency through hoa. However, the net sedimentation response differs between the two hoa types. Proximity to the reef edge means that frequent storms ?ush sediment from SLH increasing hoa depth and enhancing the potential for erosion of the conglomerate boundary. In contrast, the greater reef width fronting TLH means that sediment transport from reef ?ats to the lagoon is only activated during infrequent storms. The contrasting process signatures account for morphological differences between sediment‐limited hoa (lagoonward decrease in depth and increase in width), and transport‐limited hoa (lagoonward increase in depth). The number and type of functional hoa are found to have signi?cant implications for the rate of lagoon sedimentation in enclosed atolls. In general, an increase in frequency of functional hoa and increased proportion of SLH will promote more rapid rates of lagoon in?ll. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
This paper discusses the variability of surface currents around Sekisei Lagoon using a nested grid ocean circulation model. We developed a triple-nested grid system that consists of a coarse-resolution (1/60° or ∼1.85 km) model off Taiwan, an intermediate-resolution (1/300° or ∼370 m) model around the Yaeyama Islands, and a fine-resolution (1/900° or ∼123 m) model of Sekisei Lagoon. The nested grid system was forced by wind and heat flux calculated from six-hourly atmospheric reanalysis data and integrated over the period from May to July 2003. The coarse-resolution model was driven by lateral boundary conditions calculated from daily ocean reanalysis data to include realistic variation of the Kuroshio and mesoscale eddies with spatial scales of ∼500–700 km in the open ocean. The tidal forcing was included in the intermediate-resolution model by interpolating sea level data obtained from a data-assimilative tidal model. The results were then used to drive the fine-resolution model to simulate the surface water circulation around Sekisei lagoon. Model results show that (1) currents inside the lagoon are mainly driven by tide and wind; (2) there exists a strong southwestward current along the bottom slope in the southeast portion of the lagoon; the current is mainly driven by remote mesoscale eddies and at times intensified by the local wind; (3) the flow relaxation scheme is effective in reducing biases along the open boundaries. The simulated currents were used to examine the retention and dispersion of passive particles in the surface layer. Results show that the surface dispersion in the strong open ocean current region is significantly higher than that inside the lagoon.  相似文献   

4.
Patterns of bivalve larvae dispersal in the deep Ahe atoll lagoon was studied by using a numerical 3D transport model (MARS3D) coupled with a vertical swimming sub-model, forced mainly by tide and wind-induced currents. The simulations were validated against observations of larval dispersal monitored several days throughout the lagoon. Connectivity matrices describing larval exchanges inside the lagoon were inferred. Larvae displayed a significant dispersal capacity at the lagoon scale, especially with dominant eastern winds. With southeastern winds, larvae mostly remained in their origin sector. The total export rate of the larvae, toward the ocean through the pass and shallow lagoon borders, was independent of the wind conditions, with 1% of the total concentration exported per day. However, the tide-driven currents efficiently flushed larvae in sectors close to the pass. Connectivity matrices suggest that the south and west sectors were more suitable for spat collecting and that central sectors would be efficient sanctuaries if genitors were accumulated.  相似文献   

5.
Variability in the regional setting and morphology of cuspate forelands on the west coast of Western Australia is examined in this paper. In accordance with this aim, principal differences in the geologic and geomorphologic setting of three prominent sites on the west coast were established and their association with historical changes and contemporary oceanographic processes was examined. The cuspate forelands investigated are Jurien Bay, Winderabandi Point and Turquoise Bay. The most significant differences in geologic setting are associated with the structure and location of an extensive offshore reef system. Morphologically, the reef alters from south to north, changing from a discontinuous ridge parallel to the shore along the central west coast, to a nearly continuous fringing reef at Ningaloo. The reefs vary in distance from the shore, being farthest in the south and closest in the north and they impound a series of inshore basins, or lagoons. The deeper southern basins are dominated by locally generated wind waves and wind‐generated currents. The shallower northern basins are most markedly affected by tidal currents and wave pumping across the reef flats. The large cuspate foreland at Jurien on the central west coast has undergone shoreline configuration change in response to changing phases of storminess as well as in response to a change in focus for sediment deposition as a result of offshore reef erosion. At Winderabandi Point on the Ningaloo coast, relict Pleistocene limestone has provided the focus for sedimentation and morphology has been controlled by a balance in refracted wave energy and nearshore currents driven by tidal and wave set‐up variability. At Turquoise Bay, where the lagoonal basin is most shallow and narrow, the morphology of the foreland suggests that it may at some stage have been migratory, but its present asymmetrical shape is maintained by strong northerly longshore drift and strong currents exiting the lagoon through a nearby gap in the reef crest. Fundamental differences between the two coastal regions include the structure of the offshore reef, processes driving flow of water within the lagoons and the role of storminess in evolution of coastal landforms. Although many questions regarding storm surge dynamics and landform change remain unanswered, this research provides a significant contribution to the understanding of the evolution of morphological systems in low‐wave‐energy protected environments. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Numerical hydrodynamic models of the northeastern Queensland shelf, forced by regional winds and modelled boundary currents in the northern Coral Sea, are used to provide improved estimates of general flow trajectories and water residence times within the Great Barrier Reef (GBR) shelf system. Model performance was checked against a limited set of current metre records obtained at Lark Reef (16°S) and the Ribbon Reefs (15.5°S). Estimates of water parcel trajectories are derived from a series of numerical tracer experiments, with daily releases of neutrally buoyant, un-reactive particles at 320 sites along the coast between Cape York (10.7°S) and Hervey Bay (25°S). Flow trajectories and residence times for tracer particles introduced to the GBR lagoon in the southern—ca. 22°S, central—19°S, and northern reef—14°S are emphasised. For purposes of the analysis, the year was divided into two seasons based on mean alongshore current direction. Most coastal sourced tracers entering the central GBR lagoon between 16° and 20°S during the northward-current season (January–August) primarily encounter the outer-shelf reef matrix after exiting the lagoon at its northern “head” (nominally 16°S), after 50–150 days. Up to 70% of tracer particles entering in the southward-current season (August–December) eventually crossed the lagoon to the outer-shelf reef matrix, with median crossing times between 20 and 330 days. During favourable wind conditions, tracers introduced at the coast may move rapidly across the lagoon into the reef matrix. The tracer experiments indicate that most coastal-sourced tracers entering the GBR lagoon remain near the coast for extended periods of time, moving north and south in a coastal band. Residence times for conservative tracer particles (and implied residence times for water-borne materials) within the GBR shelf system ranged from ca. 1 month to 1 year—time frames that are very long relative to development times of planktonic larvae and cycling times for nutrient materials in the water column, implying they are transformed long before reaching the outer reef matrix.  相似文献   

7.
There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in‐situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (Hs/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.2<Hs/ h<0.5) the nearshore circulation is characterized by a meandering alongshore current. As conditions became more dissipative (Hs/h>0.5), the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between the shoals before turning alongshore in the direction of wave advance outside the surf zone. The increase in wave dissipation is associated with an increase in very low frequency (VLF) variations in the current speed across the shoal and in the rip channel that caused the circulation to oscillate between an offshore and an alongshore flow. The unsteady nature of the nearshore circulation is responsible for 55% of all surf zone exits under these more dissipative conditions. In contrast, only 29% of the drifters released from the shoal exited the surf zone and bypassed the adjacent shoal with the alongshore‐meandering current. While the currents had a low velocity (maximum of ~0.4 m s‐1) and would not pose a significant hazard to the average swimmer, the results of this study suggest that the transverse bar and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low‐energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

8.
Currents, coastal winds, coastal sea level, and coastal ocean temperatures were observed at a number of northern Baja California Pacific sites between October 1978 and October 1979. Coastal winds were weakly southward on average and fluctuated north-south throughout the year. Fluctuations were uncorrelated over alongshore separations of 200 km. Coastal winds differed considerably from the large-scale offshore wind estimate (Bakun's Index) both in strength and in variability. At 30°50′N the mean currents were weakly equatorward at 25 m depth and weakly poleward at 42 and 60 m in a water depth of 75 m. The seasonal mean flow was equatorward from October to April and poleward from April to October at the shallower level but poleward all year near bottom. The fluctuations on a time scale of days to weeks were about an order of magnitude stronger than the seasonal variation, were oriented predominantly alongshore, and were quasi-barotropic in nature. Empirical orthogonal analyses showed that almost 90% of the variability could be represented by a single empirical mode. The alongshore fluctuations were significantly correlated with coastal sea level from October to July but during the rest of the year correlation was insignificant, possibly as a result of offshore eddies approaching the shelf.Observations at 25- and 60-m depth at a second mooring 100 km south of the first indicated a mean alongshore divergence from April to July 1979, consistent with long-term mean geostrophic flow patterns for the area. In general, currents were correlated alongshore but a two-week event in May, which manifested itself differently at the two sites, was suggestive of the impingement of an eddy onto the continental shelf. Currents and winds were poorly correlated in general.Temperature variation at sites along 700 km of coast showed a strong seasonal variation with the winter cool period extended by spring upwelling. Days-to-weeks scale fluctuations were similar at the five northernmost sites and correlations alongshore were significant for separations of up to 400 km. No evidence of propagating events was found in coastal temperatures or in currents.  相似文献   

9.
Reef islands are low‐lying accumulations of unconsolidated sediment formed from the skeletal remains of carbonate‐producing reef organisms and are therefore perceived as highly vulnerable to environmental change. However, basic elements of island composition are not well described and given their high inter‐ and intra‐basinal variability a better understanding of reef and island sedimentary environments (and the connections between them) are needed to predict future morphological response. Here, we use detailed ecological and sedimentological datasets to delineate key sediment production zones and biosedimentary depositional facies across the surface of Vabbinfaru platform, Maldives. Field measurements of platform hydrodynamics are applied to sedimentary deposits to determine the potential mobility of grains and identify transport pathways. Carbonate production was dominated by coral framework (mean: 52%) within a narrow zone on the outer reef rim (22% of platform area) resulting in coral‐rich detrital sediments (reef: 51%, island: 64%) that closely resemble living assemblages. The net transfer of sediment occurred lagoonward by wave‐driven processes leading to a decrease in grain size towards the island (R2 = 0.502) which acts as a major control on depositional facies development within the lagoon. Island sediments were distinct from reefal deposits, comprising a restricted suite of durable sands (mean: 1.34?) throughout long‐term development. Our findings suggest that the production, breakdown and redistribution of coral‐derived sediment by platform currents is fundamental to future island stability at Vabbinfaru, and although alterations away from current ecological states may reduce sediment supply, the timescales over which island morphological response will occur depends upon phase lags between initial coral mortality and the conversion of this material into island‐grade sand. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
A high resolution (3–8 km grid), 3D numerical ocean model of the West Caribbean Sea (WCS) is used to investigate the variability and the forcing of flows near the Meso-American Barrier Reef System (MBRS) which runs along the coasts of Mexico, Belize, Guatemala and Honduras. Mesoscale variations in velocity and temperature along the reef were found in seasonal model simulations and in observations; these variations are associated with meandering of the Caribbean current (CC) and the propagation of Caribbean eddies. Diagnostic calculations and a simple assimilation technique are combined to infer the dynamically adjusted flow associated with particular eddies. The results demonstrate that when a cyclonic eddy (negative sea surface height anomaly (SSHA)) is found near the MBRS the CC shifts offshore, the cyclonic circulation in the Gulf of Honduras (GOH) intensifies, and a strong southward flow results along the reef. However, when an anticyclonic eddy (positive SSHA) is found near the reef, the CC moves onshore and the flow is predominantly westward across the reef. The model results help to explain how drifters are able to propagate in a direction opposite to the mean circulation when eddies cause a reversal of the coastal circulation. The effect of including the Meso-American Lagoon west of the Belize Reef in the model topography was also investigated, to show the importance of having accurate coastal topography in determining the variations of transports across the MBRS. The variations found in transports across the MBRS (on seasonal and mesoscale time scales) may have important consequences for biological activities along the reef such as spawning aggregations; better understanding the nature of these variations will help ongoing efforts in coral reef conservation and maintaining the health of the ecosystem in the region.  相似文献   

11.
A workshop organized in French Polynesia in November 2004 allowed reviewing the current methods to model the three-dimensional hydrodynamic circulation in semi-enclosed atoll lagoons for aquaculture applications. Mollusk (e.g. pearl oyster, clam) aquaculture is a major source of income for South Pacific countries such as French Polynesia or Cook Islands. This aquaculture now requires a better understanding of circulation patterns to improve the spatial use of the lagoons, especially to define the best area to set larvae collectors. The pelagic larval duration of the relevant species (<20 days) and the size of the semi-closed lagoons (few hundreds of km2) drive the specifications of the model in terms of the spatial and temporal scale. It is considered that, in contrast with fish, mollusk larvae movements are limited and that their cycle occurs completely in the lagoon, without an oceanic stage. Atolls where aquaculture is productive are generally well-bounded, or semi-closed, without significant large and deep openings to the ocean. Nevertheless part of the lagoon circulation is driven by oceanic water inputs through the rim, ocean swells, tides and winds. Therefore, boundary conditions of the lagoon system are defined by the spatial structure of a very shallow rim (exposition and number of hoas), the deep ocean swell climate, tides and wind regimes. To obtain a realistic 3D numerical model of lagoon circulation with adequate forcing, it is thus necessary to connect in an interdisciplinary way a variety of methods (models, remote sensing and in situ data collection) to accurately represent the different components of the lagoon system and its specific boundary conditions. We review here the current methods and tools used to address these different components for a hypothetical atoll of the Tuamotu Archipelago (French Polynesia), representative of the semi-closed lagoons of the South Pacific Ocean. We hope this paper will serve as a guide for similar studies elsewhere and we provide guidelines in terms of costs for all the different stages involved.  相似文献   

12.
The phytoplankton assemblage of Zhubi Reef, a closed coral reef in Nansha Islands (South China Sea, SCS) was studied in June 2007. A total of 92 species belonging to 53 genera and four phyla have been identified. The dominant taxa in the lagoon were the diatom Chaetoceros and cyanobacteria Nostoc and Microcystis, while in reef flats were cyanobacteria Trichodesmium erythraeum, dinoflagellates Gymnodinium and Prorocentrum. The species richness and diversity were consistently lower in the lagoon than in reef flats. Classification and nMDS ordination also revealed significant dissimilarity in phytoplankton community structure between the reef flat and lagoon, with statistical difference in species composition and abundance between them (ANOSIM, p = 0.025). Nutrient concentrations also spatially varied, with ammonium-enrichment in the lagoon, while high Si-concentration existed in reef flat areas. Both nutrient levels and currents in SCS may play important roles in determining the composition and distribution of microalgae in Zhubi Reef and SCS.  相似文献   

13.
This study attempts to establish a system for hindcasting/forecasting the quantity of litter reaching a beach using an ocean circulation model, a two-way particle tracking model (PTM) to find litter sources, and an inverse method to compute litter outflows at each source. Twelve actual beach survey results, and satellite and forecasted wind data were also used. The quantity of beach litter was hindcasted/forecasted using a forward in-time PTM with the surface currents computed in the ocean circulation model driven by satellite-derived/forecasted wind data. Outflows obtained using the inverse method was given for each source in the model. The time series of the hindcasted/forecasted quantity of beach litter were found consistent with the quantity of beach litter determined from sequential webcam images of the actual beach. The accuracy of the model, however, is reduced drastically by intense winds such as typhoons which disturb drifting litter motion.  相似文献   

14.
Nested non-assimilative simulations of the West Florida Shelf for 2004–2005 are used to quantify the impact of initial and boundary conditions provided by Global Ocean Data Assimilation Experiment ocean products. Simulations are nested within an optimum interpolation hindcast of the Atlantic Ocean, the initial test of the US Navy Coupled Ocean Data Assimilation system for the Gulf of Mexico, and a global ocean hindcast that used the latter assimilation system. These simulations are compared to one that is nested in a non-assimilative Gulf of Mexico model to document the importance of assimilation in the outer model. Simulations are evaluated by comparing model results to moored Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler measurements and moored sea surface temperature time series. The choice of outer model has little influence on simulated velocity fluctuations over the inner and middle shelf where fluctuations are dominated by the deterministic wind-driven response. Improvement is documented in the representation of alongshore flow variability over the outer shelf, driven in part by the intrusion of the Loop Current and associated cyclones at the shelf edge near the Dry Tortugas. This improvement was realized in the simulation nested in the global ocean hindcast, the only outer model choice that contained a realistic representation of Loop Current transport associated with basin-scale wind-driven gyre circulation and the Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation. For temperature, the non-assimilative outer model had a cold bias in the upper ocean that was substantially corrected in the data-assimilative outer models, leading to improved temperature representation in the simulations nested in the assimilative outer models.  相似文献   

15.
A two-dimensional numerical model is applied to a coastal ocean wherein alongshore elevation and density gradients, normally calculated by a three-dimensional model, are instead supplied by climatologically averaged data for the California Current System between 25 and 40°N. Surface wind stress is also obtained from climatological data. Both surface and bottom boundary layers are resolved in the model calculations; a second moment turbulence closure submodel supplies vertical diffusivities. Near steady state solutions are possible when surface buoyancy flux is imposed at the surface.Model results are as follows: Southward wind stress produces a broad equatorward current with an embedded coastal jet in accordance with previous studies. Positive wind stress curl reduces the jet current and produces a poleward undercurrent which then surfaces as the curl is increased. The jet currents are reduced and poleward flow increases as bottom steepness increases; to a lesser extent, inclusion of the beta effect has a similar effect. The existence of near bottom, poleward or equatorward flow is explained rather simply in terms of the bottom stress resulting from the alongshore balance of surface wind stress and vertically integrated pressure gradient, the latter involving the alongshore surface elevation and density gradient. A further finding is that the upwelling circulation associated with wind stress is confined to the top 200 to 300 m of the ocean along the California coast.  相似文献   

16.
A numerical shelf circulation model was developed for the Scotian Shelf, using a nested-grid setup consisting of a three-dimensional baroclinic inner model embedded inside a two-dimensional barotropic outer model. The shelf circulation model is based on the Princeton Ocean Model and driven by three-hourly atmospheric forcing provided by a numerical weather forecast model and by tidal forcing specified at the inner model's open boundaries based on pre-calculated tidal harmonic constants. The outer model simulates the depth-mean circulation forced by wind and atmospheric pressure fields over the northwest Atlantic Ocean with a horizontal resolution of 1/12°. The inner model simulates the three-dimensional circulation over the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the Scotian Shelf, and the adjacent slope with a horizontal resolution of 1/16°. The performance of the shelf circulation model is assessed by comparing model results with oceanographic observations made along the Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia and in the vicinity of Sable Island (on the Scotian Shelf) during two periods: October 2000–March 2001 and April–June 2002. Analysis of model results on Sable Island Bank indicates that tidal currents account for as much as ∼80% of the total variance of near-bottom currents, and currents driven by local winds account for ∼30% of the variance of the non-tidal near-bottom currents. Shelf waves generated remotely by winds and propagating into the region also play an important role in the near-bottom circulation on the bank.  相似文献   

17.
One of the main challenges of the Copernicus Marine Service is the implementation of coupled ocean/waves systems that accurately estimate the momentum and energy fluxes provided by the atmosphere to the ocean. This study aims to investigate the impact of forcing the Nucleus for European Modelling of the Ocean (NEMO) ocean model with forecasts from the wave model of Météo-France (MFWAM) to improve classical air-sea flux parametrizations, these latter being mostly driven by the 10-m wind. Three wave-related processes, namely, wave-state-dependent stress, Stokes drift-related effects (Stokes-Coriolis force, Stokes drift advection on tracers and on mass), and wave-state-dependent surface turbulence, are examined at a global scale with a horizontal resolution of 0.25°. Three years of sensitivity simulations (2014–2016) show positive feedback on sea surface temperature (SST) and currents when the wave model is used. A significant reduction in SST bias is observed in the tropical Atlantic Ocean. This is mainly due to the more realistic momentum flux provided by the wave model. In mid-latitudes, the most interesting impact occurs during the summer stratification, when the wind is low and the wave model produces a reduction in the turbulence linked with wave breaking. Magnitudes of the large-scale currents in the equatorial region are also improved by 10% compared to observations. In general, it is shown that using the wave model reduces on average the momentum and energy fluxes to the ocean in tropical regions, but increases them in mid-latitudes. These differences are in the order of 10 to 20% compared with the classical parametrizations found in stand-alone ocean models.  相似文献   

18.
An inverted 248 kHz two-component side-scan sonar mounted on the sea bed in a mean depth of 34 m has been used to detect the clouds of bubbles produced by breaking surface waves. The sonar has a range of about 150 m. The breaking waves appear on the sonograph records as short-lived intense echoes, and form patterns which can be explained in terms of the behaviour of groups of waves in which the highest are breaking.The bubble clouds are slightly elongated in the wave direction when they are first formed and, in winds of 5.1 m s−1, have lifetimes of up to about 5 min. Soon after a wave breaks, the horizontal motion of the fluid in which the bubbles are formed becomes similar to that of the surroundings, and the bubbles continue to be advected by the near-surface currents. The rate of drift of bubble clouds along the directions of the sonar beams allows the components of the currents to be measured.The sonographs show that large changes in currents can occur over horizontal distances of as little as 5 to 10 m when fronts are passing. The motion of the fronts through the water can be measured. The sonographs have been used to measure surface currents induced by internal waves. Bands of bubbles associated with Langmuir circulation can be detected in strong winds or when moderate winds are accompanied by heavy rain.  相似文献   

19.
The effects of wave–current interactions on ocean surface waves induced by Hurricane Hugo in and around the Charleston Harbor and its adjacent coastal waters are examined by using a three-dimensional (3D) wave–current coupled modeling system. The 3D storm surge modeling component of the coupled system is based on the Princeton Ocean Model (POM), the wave modeling component is based on the third generation wave model, Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN), and the inundation model is adopted from [Xie, L., Pietrafesa, L. J., Peng, M., 2004. Incorporation of a mass-conserving inundation scheme into a three-dimensional storm surge model. J. Coastal Res., 20, 1209–1223]. The results indicate that the change of water level associated with the storm surge is the primary cause for wave height changes due to wave–surge interaction. Meanwhile, waves propagating on top of surge cause a feedback effect on the surge height by modulating the surface wind stress and bottom stress. This effect is significant in shallow coastal waters, but relatively small in offshore deep waters. The influence of wave–current interaction on wave propagation is relatively insignificant, since waves generally propagate in the direction of the surface currents driven by winds. Wave–current interactions also affect the surface waves as a result of inundation and drying induced by the storm. Waves break as waters retreat in regions of drying, whereas waves are generated in flooded regions where no waves would have occurred without the flood water.  相似文献   

20.
We characterize the response of diurnal-period ocean current variability to the sea breeze using measurements of current velocity taken off the mouth of the Itata River and wind stress collected at Hualpen Point (central Chile) in spring of 2007 and summer of 2006 and 2008. During these three periods, the winds are predominately towards the northeast, following the coastal topography, with the highest variability found in the near-diurnal and synoptic frequency bands. The sea breeze amplitude is intermittent in time and is associated with synoptic-scale variability on the order of three to 15 days, so that the diurnal-period winds (and currents) are enhanced when the alongshore wind (i.e. upwelling-favorable) is strong. The water current variability in the near-diurnal band is significant, explaining up to 40% (spring 2007) of the total current variance in the first 15 m depth.  相似文献   

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