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1.
A. Merlotto G. R. Bértola F. I. Isla L. C. Cortizo M. C. Piccolo 《Environmental Earth Sciences》2014,71(3):1213-1225
The short and medium-term coastal evolution of Necochea Municipality, Buenos Aires province (Argentina) was studied. The medium-term evolution study was based on aerial photographs from 1967 and 1984, and satellite images from 2004, using the dune or cliff toe as coastline indicator. The short-term evolution was studied from February 2006 to December 2009 by means of seasonal beach profiles and sediment sampling. Results showed that in the medium-term at Necochea, the coastline has remained stable or has advanced. Whereas in the short-term, the analysis has evidenced incipient erosion processes. On the other hand, at Quequén the retreat of the coastline and the negative sedimentary balances (medium and short-term) are clearly indicating an accentuated erosion process. The different degrees of coastal erosion are related in part to beach vulnerability to wave storms but mainly to anthropogenic actions, which have affected the beach sediment supply. These results evidence the necessity to develop a coastal management programme. 相似文献
2.
受波浪及沿岸流影响,在滨岸地区形成的滩坝砂体是滨海（湖）带发育的主要砂体类型。目前国内外学者对滩坝沉积砂体的认识多来自于现代沉积和油气地质特征,对滩坝砂体的沉积机制和内部结构研究相对较弱。基于沉积水槽实验,采用规则波浪对沙质斜坡滨岸带进行模拟实验,观测波浪作用下滨岸带滩坝形成过程和波浪运动特征,记录波浪作用下滨岸带沙质滩坝在不同浪带平面时空演化规律。实验结果显示:波浪是改造湖岸原有沉积物的关键驱动力,波浪作用下沙质岸滩床面泥砂将发生输移运动,而滩坝是陆湖（海）泥沙在水动力驱动下搬运沉积的结果,水动力的强弱及水流结构引起泥沙在空间上的不均匀输运和分布,进而塑造不同的滩坝形态。与强波浪相关的高水位可以加速滩坝系统的形成并最终形成大规模的滩坝砂;相比之下,与较弱波浪相关的低水位只能略微改变初始沉积物形态。根据不同的沉积物特征可将实验中的滩坝系统分为三类:冲浪带和碎浪带滩坝系统近端部分的大规模厚层坝砂,破浪带和升浪带滩坝系统中部分布广泛的薄滩砂,以及位于滩坝系统中远端的弧形或平行排列的脊状、砂纹坝砂。建立了水槽实验模式下滩坝沉积模式,可用于指导油气勘探开发。 相似文献
3.
A. Di Matteo M. Milli Ph.D. 《International Journal of Environmental Science and Technology》2008,5(3):415-424
This paper outlines the results of a study recently carried out on the western coast of the Sestri Levante peninsula (Eastern Liguria-Italy), aiming to assess the effects of newly accomplished defensive measures against coastal erosion: the accretion of the beach with natural sand and its protection with artificial structures orthogonal and parallel to the shoreline. Through conventional and more innovative methodologies (respectively single beam echo sounders and global positioning system) the research work has resulted in a new evaluation of the morphological, bathymetric and sedimentological features that make up this shoreline and its volumetrical change over the century. The survey and the research carried out on the studied area have enabled us to give a more detailed picture of the evolution of the littoral, to assess the possible use of “non-traditional” techniques of beach development monitoring, to evaluate the volumetric variations of the emerged and submerged beaches, to establish the sedimentological activity of the beach after the latest nourishment measures, and finally, to verify the effectiveness of the protection measures implemented on this coastline. The acquired data have been stored in the database and a geographic information system has been used to process, analyze, and evaluate the results. The main findings show that the latest intervention has brought about a new phase in the evolution of the coastline, giving rise to a new pseudo-balanced condition. The re-distribution of materials used for the beach nourishment, leads us to believe that the defence underwater barrier has only partially worked. The main conclusion for a correct coastal zone management underline the necessity to plan local and more wide monitoring during at least 8–10 consecutive years. 相似文献
4.
河北省沙质岸滩存在海岸侵蚀现象,对沙滩旅游、海滩工程建设造成严重威胁,制约河北省海洋经济社会发展。海岸侵蚀监测结果显示,区域海滩滩面受波浪、潮流影响较大,时冲时淤,摆动频繁,沙质岸滩整体处于侵蚀状态,各区段蚀淤情况有所差异,高潮线以上有所淤高,海滩坡度开始变陡,呈下蚀状态。海岸侵蚀灾害已引起沙滩沙质粗化、滩肩变窄、滩坡变陡及基岩裸露比率增多等问题。针对这一突出问题,通过定点测量与遥感监测相结合的方式,研究了河北省海岸线动态演变特征,经计算,河北省各侵蚀岸段海岸侵蚀速率达1.0~4.0m/a,单宽体积侵蚀量-1.42~-19.08m~3/m·a。综合分析显示,人类海岸工程建设、区域海洋水文条件及输砂量减少,是河北省发生海岸侵蚀发生的主要原因。 相似文献
5.
Indications of an extreme event deposits along the west coast of India: evidences from GPR investigations 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
V. J. Loveson A. R. Gujar S. D. Iyer P. Srivastava G. M. Tirodkar R. A. A. Luis 《Environmental Earth Sciences》2014,72(10):4155-4166
The ground-penetrating radar (GPR) was used to trace the subsurface details in the Palshet coastal zone (Maharashtra) as it exhibits an interesting array of geomorphological features. Furthermore, our main goal was to identify and locate features that might have formed during a reported extreme event and its effects on the flow of the nearby Sundri River. Two profiles (8 and 4 m depth) were collected across the beach and along the backshore, respectively. While the 8-m depth profile (west to east; across the beach) indicates a series of coastline regression in this area, the 4-m depth profile along the coastline (north to south) in the backshore zone reveals two significant incidents viz., (1) stages of development of the paleo-channels that indicate the migration of the Sundri River towards south and (2) huge sediment deposits up to 2.5-m thick in the backshore area. The erosional relict surface (~2.5 m depth) was traced along with various spells of sediments that perhaps occurred due to an extreme event. Sand samples were collected from two trial pits along the GPR profiles to understand the sedimentology and mineralogy in the backshore area. These data together with beach profiles and geomorphological maps suggest that the sands were deposited by an extreme event perhaps during the 1854 cyclonic storm. The sands were trapped in suitable geomorphological sites along the Palshet coast and these sand deposits of about 2.5 m thickness forced the River Sundri to shift its course towards the south. This new revelation facilitates a further study that could focus on the nearby coastal areas to document such extreme event deposits and their influence on the geomorphic set-up. 相似文献
6.
滩坝砂体研究是辽河西部凹陷曙北地区断陷湖盆勘探的新领域。文章分析了曙北滩坝砂体的主要控制因素是古地
貌、古水深、古物源和古风场等,即“风-源-盆”三端元系统,并提出了定量恢复四个控制因素的方法。结果表明,曙北
滩坝主要发育于微观古地貌水下低隆起部位;形成曙北滩坝有利水深大约7 m;滩坝物源来自于三角洲改造、古潜山剥蚀
和岸线基岩侵蚀;滩坝的形成受到南北季风影响,风力达8级。根据控制因素将曙北滩坝发育区分为沿岸带、潜山带、潜
山披覆带、北部斜坡带和深洼带五个带,其中潜山披覆带最有利于滩坝发育。 相似文献
7.
针对目前对大陆架砂成因问题的争议,本文从海陆过渡带动力关联的统一的环境体系,选取环境相关的海岸与大陆架砂质沉积做对比分析,获知东海大陆架砂的沉积特征和形成环境不具备高度的均一性,因而不是统一的大规模风成堆积,它们基本上均属于河口海岸-浅海环境下的产物。据大陆架砂的沉积特征以及当代关于沙漠化概念的内涵,质疑东海大陆架"沙漠化"的观点。 相似文献
8.
海岸现代风成砂粒度参数特征的研究--以中国温带海岸为例 总被引：6，自引：1，他引：6
现代海岸风成砂的粒度特征是海岸风沙研究的重要问题,本文以我国温带海岸为研究区域,利用 136个现代海岸风成砂样数据,通过粒度组成、平均粒径、标准偏差和偏差、峰态等粒度参数分析了其粒度特征。结果表明,我国温带海岸的现代风成砂并非过去认为的几乎全由分选很好的细砂组成,是以正偏为主,粒度参数的地域差异明显,并随沙丘类型、规模及距海岸线的远近不同等而变化。与海滩砂比较,风成砂具有普遍含有粉沙、略细、多正偏、峰态偏窄等特点,但利用粒度参数散点图和因子分析法二者均无法区分。我国温带海岸现代海岸风成砂粒度参数的上述特征与其特有的发育条件和演化过程密切相关,其中主要与季风气候特征显著、形成时间短、风力作用时间有限以及风沙活动空间狭小并受到水力与重力作用的干扰等有关。 相似文献
9.
M. A. Short S. Lamontagne P. G. Cook R. Cranswick 《Australian Journal of Earth Sciences》2013,60(2):319-331
The spatial and temporal distribution of near-shore fresh submarine groundwater discharge (SGD) was characterised from the coastal aquifers of the Willunga Basin, South Australia, an extensive aquifer system that supports an important viticultural region. Measurements of electrical conductivity (EC) and 222Rn (radon) activity were collected at 19 sites along the coastline during the Southern Hemisphere spring (2011) and summer (2013). At each site, samples were collected from the surf zone as well asporewater from beach sediment in the intertidal zone. Surf-zone radon activity ranged from <5 to 70mBq L–1, and intertidal porewater radon ranged over two orders of magnitude (220–36 940 mBq L–1) along the Willunga Basin coastline during both surveys. Overall, surf-zone and porewater EC was lower in the spring 2011 survey than in the summer 2013 survey. Porewater EC was similar to that of coastal water at most sites along the coastline, except at three sites where porewater EC was found to be lower than coastal water during both surveys, and three sites where evaporated seawater was observed in the summer survey. Based on the patterns in radon and EC along the coastline, two sites of localised fresh SGD were identified, in addition to a groundwater spring that is known to discharge to the coast. The results indicate that near-shore fresh SGD occurs as localised seeps rather than diffuse seepage along the entire coastline. The apparent absence of groundwater discharge at most locations is also consistent with current evidence suggesting that extensive groundwater pumping within the basin has resulted in seawater intrusion across much of the coastline. These observations also suggest that previous studies are likely to have over-estimated SGD rates from the Willunga Basin because they assumed that SGD occurred along the entire coastline. 相似文献
10.
三沙湾海岸线时空演变 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海岸带是海陆之间的过渡区域,是人类活动和经济发展较为活跃的地区。海岸线时空演变研究对海岸带资源开发与保护有重要意义,但国内外对三沙湾海岸线时空演变研究较少。本文基于25 a的卫星遥感资料,解译出4个时相的三沙湾海岸线,定量分析海岸线变化趋势,并研究海岸线演变的主要因素。研究表明,25 a的三沙湾海岸线总体长度呈增长趋势：1988-1996年岸线总长度变化不大;2003年较1996年增加约6 947 m、增长约11.5%;2003-2013年岸线总长度增加较为明显,2013年较2003年增加约24 128 m、增长约39.6%,其增速约为1996-2003的3.4倍。砂质岸线长度基本稳定,基岩和泥质岸线长度有所减少,人工岸线在逐年增加,这主要是滩地围垦、港口建设和海岸人工改造等人为因素造成的。 相似文献
11.
The effects of source lithology, transport, deposition and sampling scale on the composition of southern California sand 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
The Transverse Ranges of southern California represent an uplifted and variably dissected Mesozoic magmatic arc, and Mesozoic to Holocene sedimentary and volcanic strata deposited in convergent and transform tectonic settings. Modern sand within part of the Western Transverse Ranges represents: first-order sampling scale of the Santa Monica and the San Gabriel Mountains; second-order sampling scale of the Santa Clara River draining both mountain ranges; and third-order sampling scale of the beach system between the mouth of the Santa Clara River and the eastern Santa Monica Mountains, and turbidite sand of the Hueneme-Mugu submarine fan. Source lithology includes plutonic and metamorphic rocks of the San Gabriel Mountains, and sedimentary and volcanic rocks of the Santa Monica Mountains. First-order sands have large compositional variability. Sand from local coastal drainage of the Santa Monica Mountains ranges from basaltic feldspatholithic to quartzofeldspathic. Sand of the San Gabriel Mountains local drainages has three distinct petrofacies, ranging from metamorphiclastic feldspatholithic to mixed metamorphi/plutoniclastic and plutoniclastic quartzofeldspathic. Second-order sand is represented by the main channel of the Santa Clara River; the sand has an abrupt downstream compositional change, from feldspathic to quartzofeldspathic. Third-order sand (beaches and deep-sea turbidite samples) of the Santa Monica Basin is quartzofeldspathic. Beach sand is more quartz-rich than is Santa Clara river sand, whereas turbidite sand is more feldspar-rich than is beach sand. Deep-sea sand has intermediate composition with respect to second-order samples of the Santa Clara River and third-order samples of the beach system, suggesting that (1) the Santa Clara River is the main source of sediments to the marine environment; and (2) local entry points from canyons located near local drainages may generate turbidity currents during exceptional flood conditions. Petrologic data of modern sand of the study area are highly variable at first- and second-order scale, whereas third-order sand is homogenized. The homogenized composition of deep-marine sand is similar to the composition of most ancient sandstone derived primarily from the Mesozoic dissected magmatic arc of southern California. This study of the Western Transverse Ranges illustrates the effects of source lithology, transport, depositional environment, and sampling scale on sand composition of a complex system, which provides insights regarding actualistic petrofacies models. 相似文献
12.
We investigated the role of beach grooming in the loss of coastal strand ecosystems. On groomed beaches, unvegetated dry sand
zones were four times wider, macrophyte wrack cover was >9 times lower, and native plant abundance and richness were 15 and
>3 times lower, respectively, compared to ungroomed beaches. Experimental comparisons of native plant performance were consistent
with our survey results: although initial germination was similar, seed bank, survival, and reproduction were significantly
lower in groomed compared to ungroomed plots. Rates of aeolian sand transport were significantly higher in groomed plots,
while native plants or wrack placed in that zone reduced sand transport. Our results suggest beach grooming has contributed
to widespread conversion of coastal strand ecosystems to unvegetated sand. Increased conservation of these threatened coastal
ecosystems could help retain sediment, promote the formation of dunes, and maintain biodiversity, wildlife, and human use
in the face of rising sea levels. 相似文献
13.
对海滩地下结构的认识是海岸带研究的一个重要方面,也是海滩保护和开发的基础。目前对于海滩的研究大多集中在表面动态变化监测和研究,而对于海滩内部结构和基底形态研究还非常有限。现有的钻探和探测手段一般只能研究表层砂体,难以探测到砂体的底部,无法建立海滩的整体结构模型,不利于分析砂的储量和研究海滩的演化。因此,需要一种探测手段,以便快速有效地开展砂体结构的大范围探测。本文把多尺度地震层析成像方法应用于海滩结构研究,以山东半岛东南部花岗岩石质海岸的一个典型海滩—青岛石老人海水浴场为例,对石老人海滩下方从地表到结晶基底的整体结构开展研究。通过采用新研制的重锤震源得到较高信噪比的地震数据,使用多尺度地震层析成像方法对海滩地下结构进行建模,建立了青岛石老人海水浴场海滩下方深达50 m的速度结构模型。所建立的速度结构模型与该区域已有的对砂体厚度的认识,以及海滩钻孔取样得到的柱状样品的砂粒度变化曲线吻合。该速度结构模型显示,测线下方砂体北厚南薄,在后滨的厚度约为15 m,而在前滨仅有5 m左右。我们推测,海滩下方的砂体中可能存在直立的岩石和未风化完全的岩石,海滩下方的不均匀风化作用导致其下方基底呈现下凹的形态,这种基底形态可能具有稳定砂体的作用。本文方法能够快速有效地构建海滩下方速度结构模型,并且可以方便地推广到其他海滩的结构探测,对于研究海滩结构、演化过程和沙滩保护具有重要意义。 相似文献
14.
The subtidal sediments of four coastal environments (beach, berm, surf zone and nearshore sea floor) of Kuala Terengganu have
been studied in terms of their textural characteristics and depositional process. Sampling and statistical analyses of the
grain size distributions of beach, surf zone and shallow sea-floor sediments at various locations along the coastline show
that they varied in their mean grain size as well as values of sorting and skewness. The statistical parameters of grain size
distributions thus allowed recognition of distinct sub-environments. The size distribution of such sediments suggests that
the various processes that are responsible for their transportation and deposition are wave, current and wind action. The
different energy conditions and the morphology of each coastal environment seem to be reflected in the characteristics of
the sediments in each environment. 相似文献
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17.
During the period from 1967 through 1972, a sampling programme was completed to determine the economic potential of heavy metals in the beach and river sands of the southern California coastal zone. These samples were employed to test the hypothesis that sand composition in a given beach cell is dominantly controlled by the provenance draining into that cell and is not strongly influenced by longshore leakage from upcurrent cells. Sample sets obtained before and after the exceptional flood of 1969 made it possible to compare the sediment supplied by normal river flow with that supplied by a major flood. Multivariate statistical analysis of the heavy mineral distribution of southern California beaches and rivers indicate that the sand composition of the two northern cells is controlled by the dominantly sedimentary Transverse Range provenance, whereas the composition of the three southern cells is controlled by the dioritic Peninsular Ranges. Some leakage occurs between the two northern cells around the Point Dume-Hueneme-Mugu Canyon Zone, whereas no important southward mixing occurs between cells around the Palos Verdes-Redondo Canyon Zone. Even though the Santa Clara River flows mostly through sedimentary terrains, samples from this river strongly reflect the granodioritic source present in its headlands. Although the basic sand composition within each cell persists during major flooding, leakage between cells may increase following flooding and the compositional packages present may show evidence of greater mixing. 相似文献
18.
Natural radioactivity measurements in beach sand along southern coast of Orissa,eastern India 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
The beach placer deposits in the southern coastal Orissa, India may have significant levels of radiation due to the presence
of Th and U bearing minerals such as monazite and zircon. In this study, Gopalpur and Rushikulya beach regions were selected
to study the ambient radiation environment. The average activity concentrations of radioactive elements such as 232Th, 238U and 40K of beach sand samples were measured by γ-ray spectrometry using a HPGe detector, and found to be much higher than the internationally
accepted values. The cross plots of eTh/eU and eTh/K inferred that the sand samples of Gopalpur and Rushikulya beach placer
deposit were deposited in leached uranium and an oxidising environment. The absorbed γ dose rate levels of the study areas
are similar to other monazite sand-bearing HBRAs of southern and southwestern coastal regions of India and of world. Different
radiation hazard indices were estimated for the present study area and were found to be much higher than the internationally
accepted values. Hence, Gopalpur and Rushikulya beach placer region can be considered as a high background radiation area
and a potential zone for radiogenic heavy mineral exploration. 相似文献
19.
With 60% of the world’s population living within the coastal zone, coastal erosion is considered as a global problem. The coasts of the Maltese Islands hold a variety of formations resulting from coastal erosion. Beach nourishment is one of the protective measures taken against coastal erosion. This paper focuses on two of the nourished beaches within the Maltese Islands, St George’s Bay (St Julians) and Pretty Bay (Birżebbuġa), that have undergone extensive sand augmentation during the past decades and looks at the extent of how coastal erosion and beach replenishment may have influenced public perception. Through a triangulation of interviews, it seeks to understand the views of beach users, researchers, representatives, and beach managers. It presents divergences in interviewee opinions and ideas on St George’s Bay and Pretty Bay and illustrates that public perception tends to reflect the type of urban area surrounding each replenished beach. Recommendations and suggestions are also presented to promote awareness towards coastal processes and their impacts.
相似文献20.
Aerial photographs taken in the 1963 and 2001 and bathymetric charts, in conjunction with coastal processes are analyzed to assess changes in rate of shoreline position, seabed level, and seabed grain sizes along the Tabarka–Berkoukech beach at the north-western Tunisian coastline. The littoral cell of this beach, 12-km-long, is bounded by pronounced embayments and rocky headlands separated by sandy stretches. Although not yet very much undeveloped, this littoral is still experienced degradation and modification, especially along its shoreline, with significant coastal erosion at some places. Results obtained from analysis of shoreline position indicate that El Morjene Beach is experienced a landward retreat of more than −62 m, at a maximum rate of −1.64 m/year, whereas the El corniche beach is advanced about 16–144 m, at an average rate of 0.42 m–3.78 m/year. This beach accretion has been formed on the updrift side of the Tabarka port constructed between 1966 and 1970. Comparison of bottom contours deduced from bathymetric charts surveyed in 1881 and 1996 off the coastline between Tabarka Port and El Morjene Beach identifies erosional areas (sediment source) and accretionary zones (sediment sink). Erosion (0.87–4.35 cm/year) occurs between El kebir River Mouth and El Morjene beach, whereas accretion exists in the zone down wind of the port ranges between 0.87 and 5.21 cm/year. Morphological analyses of the shoreline and the seabed of the study nearshore area indicate that shoreline retreat corresponds to areas of seabed scour (sediment source) while shoreline accretion is associated with areas of seabed deposition (sediment sink). Furthermore, simulation of wave propagation using STWAVE model combined with grain size distributions of the seabed shows that fine sands are much dominated in depositional areas with low wave energy, whereas coarser sands in erosive zones with high wave energy. The results obtained suggest that the change of seabed morphology, wave height pattern and grain size sediment have a great influence on the modification of shoreline morphology and dynamics. 相似文献