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1.
Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a constant plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special case of slope angle b=p/2, this solution can be reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline. Interactions between two edge waves including progressive, standing and partially reflected standing waves were also discussed. The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves were also discussed. The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated, and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and second orders are derived. The boundary conditions for the determining determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested, that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory. Finally some computation results are demonstrated. 相似文献
2.
Based on the full water-wave equation,a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper.For special case of slope angle β=π/2,this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline.Interactions between two edge waves including progressive,standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed.The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given.The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated,and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived.The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested,that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory.Finally some computation results are demonstrated. 相似文献
3.
In this paper we investigate the propagation of tsunamis generated by landslides around the coast of an island to understand the propagation and trapping mechanisms of the waves. Records of shoreline displacement have been processed using the wavenumber–frequency analysis (k–f). We identify the dispersion relation followed by the waves that propagate alongshore. It appears that the 0th-order edge wave mode is the only one relevant for shoreline run-up. Furthermore, it is shown that the edge wave dispersion relation is a quantitative tool to estimate the phase and group wave celerities. A very good agreement is found when comparing the wave celerities as calculated from the experimental records, against those predicted by the edge wave theory. Furthermore the analysis of the tsunami around the island has been carried out by means of the two-dimensional k–f. Using as input data a high-space resolution dataset of free surface elevations it is found that other modes, both trapped (1st-order edge waves) and non-trapped (free radiating waves), occur during the propagation. 相似文献
4.
Hydroelastic response of a circular plate in waves on a two-layer fluid of finite depth 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The hydroelastic response of a circular, very large floating structure （VLFS）, idealized as a floating circular elastic thin plate, is investigated for the case of time-harmonic incident waves of the surface and interfacial wave modes, of a given wave frequency, on a two-layer fluid of finite and constant depth. In linear potential-flow theory, with the aid of angular eigenfunction expansions, the diffraction potentials can be expressed by the Bessel functions. A system of simultaneous equations is derived by matching the velocity and the pressure between the open-water and the plate-covered regions, while incorporating the edge conditions of the plate. Then the complex nested series are simplified by utilizing the orthogonality of the vertical eigenfunctions in the open-water region. Numerical computations are presentedto investigate the effects of different physical quantities, such as the thickness of the plate, Young＇s modulus, the ratios ofthe densities and of the layer depths, on the dispersion relations of the flexural-gravity waves for the two-layer fluid.Rapid convergence of the method is observed, but is slower at higher wave frequency. At high frequency, it is found that there is some energy transferred from the interfacial mode to the surface mode. 相似文献
5.
Internal waves occurring in the specific Mid-Atlantic ridge area as a result of the impinging of a barotropic tide are studied
in the terms of the linear theory for surface waves. The ocean is assumed to be double-layered, with a tidal wave running
onto it at an arbitrary angle. The dependences of the wave amplitudes and horizontal velocities on the angle of run-on of
a tidal wave are derived. Similar studies for the model bottom topography have been reported in refs 1–3.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
6.
The vertical mode method in the problems of flexural-gravity waves diffracted by a vertical cylinder
The linear three-dimensional problem of ice loads acting on a vertical circular cylinder frozen in an ice cover of infinite extent is studied. The loads are caused by an uni-directional hydroelastic wave propagating in the ice cover towards the cylinder mounted to the see bottom in water of constant depth. There are no open water surfaces in this problem. The deflection of the ice cover is described by the Bernoulli–Euler equation of a thin elastic plate of constant thickness. At the contact line between the ice cover and the surface of the cylinder, some edge conditions are imposed. In this study, the edge of the ice plate is either clamped to the cylinder or has no contact with the cylinder surface, with the plate edge being free of stresses and shear forces. The water is of finite constant depth, inviscid and incompressible. The problem is solved by both the vertical mode method and using the Weber integral transform in the radial coordinate. Each vertical mode corresponds to a root of the dispersion relation for flexural-gravity waves. It is proved that these two solutions are identical for the clamped edge conditions. This result is non-trivial because the vertical modes are non-orthogonal in a standard sense, they are linearly dependent, the roots of the dispersion relation can be double and even triple, and the set of the modes could be incomplete. A general solution of the wave-cylinder interaction problem is derived by the method of vertical modes and applied to different edge conditions on the contact line. There are three conditions of solvability in this problem. It is shown that these conditions are satisfied for any parameters of the problem. 相似文献
7.
Laboratory observations of green water overtopping a fixed deck 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A small-scale laboratory experiment was conducted to quantify a transient wave overtopping a horizontal, deck fixed above the free surface. Detailed free surface and velocity measurements were made for two cases with and without the deck structure to quantify the effect of the deck on the wave kinematics. The study showed that the structure increased the free surface above the leading edge of the deck by 20%. The velocity profile at the leading edge was fairly uniform, and the maximum horizontal velocity was similar to the maximum crest velocity measured without the deck. Immediately below the deck, the maximum velocity was 2.5 times greater than the corresponding velocity without the deck and 2.1 times greater than the maximum crest velocity without the deck. On the deck, the wave collapsed into a thin bore with velocities that exceeded 2.4 times the maximum crest velocity measured without the deck. 相似文献
8.
The hydrodynamic problem of a hydrofoil travelling at constant speed in water waves has been investigated through velocity potential theory. The boundary conditions on the free surface have been linearized, and the effects are accounted for through the Green function. The overall problem is decomposed into the steady forward speed problem and periodic wave radiation and diffraction problems. Each of these problems is solved using the boundary integral equation over the hydrofoil surface together with a vortex sheet behind the trailing edge. The body surface boundary condition is imposed on its mean position. As a result the steady potential will contribute a well-known mj term to the body surface boundary condition on the radiation problem. The numerical difficulty in dealing with this term is effectively resolved through a difference method. The effects of the thickness on the wave radiation and diffraction are investigated. The applicability of various reciprocity relationships in this problem is discussed. 相似文献
9.
黄、渤海表层海温对台风过程响应数值试验 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
根据黄、渤海夏季由台风引起的异常海温的主要特点 ,构造一个简单而典型的台风过程模型 ,利用“近海异常海温数值预报模式”对海表层温度进行了数值试验 ,对台风过程中引起异常海温的各因子进行了定量分析 ,给出台风中心及其附近各点由各因子引起的变温率变化。试验表明 ,在台风作用下 ,冷水抽吸是引起异常低温的主要原因 ,大风夹卷的贡献占第二位 ,蒸发潜热的作用也不容忽视。数值模拟还清晰地显示出台风所引起的左弱右强的不对称降温效应以及表层暖水向外输运并在台风边缘下沉的现象。另外 ,还对近海异常海温预报模式的几个关键性问题及模式需改进之处进行了讨论。 相似文献
10.
The small-scale roughness of the sea surface acts as an important link in air-sea interaction processes. Radar and sonar waves are scattered by short surface waves providing the basis for remote sensing methods of the sea surface. At high wind speeds, breaking waves occur. Bubbles penetrate into the water and drastically increase acoustical reverberation, transmission loss and ambient noise. Thus, the development of short waves and wave breaking have to be known to apply radar remote sensing to the surface and to deduce from radar backscatter which sonar conditions prevail. To measure the wind dependence of short waves an experimental device was constructed for use from stationary platforms. It is nearly all-weather capable and can easily be handled by a crane. On the other hand, frequencies of short waves measured in a fixed position are extremely frequency shifted by currents. This limits the usefulness of tower-based measurements, e.g., the short wave modulation by wind and waves or currents can only be estimated in a rough approximation. Consequently, a buoy was developed to reduce the frequency shifts. The principle of the buoy is to drift in the local surface current and to follow the amplitudes of long waves. Therefore, short waves are measured in facets of long waves and the Doppler shifts are minimized. The wind is measured at a constant height above the long wave profile and relative to the moving facets. The paper describes the conventional measuring device and points out the necessity of the drifting buoy system. Examples of wind and wave spectra are presented and short wave modulations by long waves are depicted, too. From these measurements, new insights in short wave behaviour have to be expected 相似文献
11.
An edge wave is a kind of surface gravity wave basically travelling along a shoaling beach. Based on the periodic assumption in the longshore direction, a second order ordinary differential equation is obtained for numerical simulation of the cross-shore surface elevation. Given parameters at the shoreline, a cross-shore elevation profile is obtained through integration with fourth-order Runge-Kutta technique. For a compound slope, a longshore wavenumber is obtained by following a geometrical approach and solving a transcendental equation with an asymptotic method. Numerical results on uniform and compound sloping beaches with different wave periods, slope angles, modes and turning point positions are presented. Some special scenarios, which cannot be predicted by analytical models are also discussed. 相似文献
12.
Use of nautical radar as a wave monitoring instrument 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Common marine X-Band radars can be used as a sensor to survey ocean wave fields. The wave field images provided by the radars are sampled and analysed by a wave monitoring system (called WaMoS II) developed by the German research institute GKSS. This measuring system can be mounted on a ship, on offshore stations or at coastal locations. The measurement is based on the backscatter of microwaves from the ocean surface, which is visible as ‘sea clutter' on the radar screen. From this observable sea clutter, a numerical analysis is carried out. The unambiguous directional wave spectrum, the surface currents and sea state parameters such as wave periods, wave lengths, and wave directions can be derived. To provide absolute wave heights, the response of the nautical radar must be calibrated. Similar to the wave height estimations for Synthetic Aperture Radars, the so-called ‘Signal to Noise Ratio' leads to the determination of the significant wave height (HS). In this paper, WaMoS II results are compared with directional buoy data to show the capabilities of nautical microwave radars for sea state measurements. 相似文献
13.
Ａｍｏｄｅｌｏｆｔｈｅｆｏｒｍａｔｉｏｎａｎｄｄｅｖｅｌｏｐｍｅｎｔｏｆｏｃｅａｎｓｈｅａｒｗａｖｅ￥ＱｉａｏＦａｎｇｌｉａｎｄＺｈａｎｇＱｉｎｇｈｕａ（ＦｉｒｓｔＩｎｓｔｉｔｕｔｅｏｆＯｃｅａｎｏｇｒａｐｈｙ，ｓｔａｔｅｏｃｅａｎｉｃＡｄｍｉｎｉｓ... 相似文献
14.
Using a linear statement, the paper studies surface waves occurring due to minor shifts of the bottom sections. A plane case
is considered. An analytical solution to the problem has been derived using Fourier transforms. Asymptotic laws for the degeneration
of waves propagating over finite bottom deformations have been defined. Numerical analysis of the integrals is applied to
study the effect of the horizontal extent of a wave generation area and bottom irregularities on the shape of waves and their
amplitudinal and energetic parameters. Attention is focused on the manifestation of frequency dispersion at the stage of wave
generation as a developed wave process.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
15.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(1):87-101
Water wave refraction–diffraction within a porous medium on an undulating seabed is considered based on linear wave theory. Using the model of wave-induced flow within a porous medium and Galerkin eigenfunction expansions, refraction–diffraction equations for surface waves are derived. With these equations, the wave reflection from a porous structure on a sloping beach is investigated and numerical results of reflection coefficients are obtained. A comparison between the present results with those in the literature is made for a special case and the agreement is satisfactory. This structure can be viewed as an idealized model of rubble-mound seawalls along coastlines. 相似文献
16.
Qiu Dahong 《中国海洋工程》1992,(2)
Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier. 相似文献
17.
18.
Craeye C. Sobieski P.W. Bliven L.F. Guissard A. 《Oceanic Engineering, IEEE Journal of》1999,24(3):323-332
Radar observations of the ocean surface can be affected by impacting raindrops. Ring-wave measurements are presented for drops of 2.2 and 2.8 mm in diameter impacting on fresh and salt water surfaces initially at rest. They are based on the observation of the mirror image of a sharp edge on the perturbed surface. The retrieved wave profiles show a rather stable characteristic wavenumber (0.2 mm-1) and very small wave amplitudes: the fraction of the incident kinetic energy converted into ring-waves is of the order of 1% 相似文献
19.
Draft effect on wave action with a semi-infinite elastic plate 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
1Introduction Wave action on coastal and offshore structuresis investigated by many researches. In the recent pa-pers we can seen that Li et al. (2006) developed athree-dimesional(3D) numerical model for obliquewave action on vertical walls, Li et al. (20… 相似文献
20.
V. A. Kalmykov 《Physical Oceanography》1998,9(2):121-127
Dispersion relations and phase velocities of surface gravity waves, with their non-linearity being considered, have been derived
numerically from an equation for a nonvortical incompressible fluid of finite depth. For all the depths being considered,
the dispersion relations are readily realized for the wavenumbers smaller than the wavenumber of the basic harmonic. Then
the acquired relations tend to increasingly deviate from the linear dispersion relations. This is the case for all the depths
and wave steepnesses under discussion. When the depth of the sea diminishes, the deviations dramatically increase in both
cases, when waves grow steeper and when the form of the wave spectrum changes from wide to narrow. This also holds for the
phase velocity of waves.
Numerical results are matched up with the experimentally derived data. For calculations, JONSWAP spectra of various width
have been used.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献