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1.
Baroclinic topographic waves trapped by a sloping bottom in the case of a real stratification are considered. The dispersion properties of these waves are studied. The characteristic scales and amplitudes of trapped topographic waves observed in the Norwegian Sea are determined. The asymptotic method of multi-scale expansions is used to study nonlinear effects occurring during the propagation of these waves. The wave-induced mean flow is determined in the second order of smallness in the wave amplitude. The evolution equation for the envelope—the nonlinear Schrödinger equation—is derived. Modulation instability of these waves is examined. It is shown that trapped topographic waves are modulationally unstable. 相似文献
2.
Using data from laboratory, field, and numerical experiments, we investigated regularities in changes in the relative limit height of breaking waves (the breaking index) from peculiarities of nonlinear wave transformations and type of wave breaking. It is shown that the value of the breaking index depends on the relative part of the wave energy in the frequency range of the second nonlinear harmonic. If this part is more than 35%, then the breaking index can be taken as a constant equal to 0.6. These waves are spilling breaking waves, asymmetric on the horizontal axis, and are almost symmetric on the vertical axis. If this part of the energy is less than 35%, then the breaking index increases with increasing energy in the frequency range of the second harmonic. These waves are plunging breaking waves, asymmetric on the vertical axis, and are almost symmetric on the horizontal axis. It is revealed that the breaking index depends on the asymmetry of waves on the vertical axis, determined by the phase shift between the first and second nonlinear harmonic (biphase). It is shown that the relation between the amplitudes of the second and first nonlinear harmonics for an Ursell number less than 1 corresponds to Stokes’ second-order wave theory. The empirical dependences of the breaking index on the parameters of nonlinear transformation of waves are proposed. 相似文献
3.
A nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NSE) describing packets of weakly nonlinear waves in an inhomogeneously vortical infinitely deep fluid has been derived. The vorticity is assumed to be an arbitrary function of Lagrangian coordinates and quadratic in the small parameter proportional to the wave steepness. It is shown that the modulational instability criteria for the weakly vortical waves and potential Stokes waves on deep water coincide. The effect of vorticity manifests itself in a shift of the wavenumber of high-frequency filling. A special case of Gerstner waves with a zero coefficient at the nonlinear term in the NSE is noted. 相似文献
4.
The spectral properties of Stokes waves are shown in this paper by theoretical and numerical methods. This is done by expressing wave profiles and velocities of water particles as nonlinear combinations of the first order component of wave profiles. Under the assumption of the first order wave profiles being zero mean Gaussian processes, the relationship between autocorrelation functions of wave profiles and velocities of water particles and the first order component of wave profiles is established using the nonlinear spectral analysis. The spectral densities of nonlinear random waves, the velocities and accelerations of water particles are then obtained. Numerical computations are carried out to analyze the effect of fundamental parameters of waves. The results indicate that wave height is the most sensible parameter to the root mean squares related and wave depth is the least sensible one of all. 相似文献
5.
This paper addresses a numerical investigation of nonlinear waves interactions with an array of two surface-piercing vertical cylinders and the corresponding nonlinear hydrodynamic loads on each individual cylinder. The primary interest of this study is concentrated on the problem of three-dimensional scattering of solitary waves by cylinder arrays and the nonlinear interactions between scattered waves. The theoretical model adopted for simulation is the generalized Boussinesq two-equation model. The boundary-fitted coordinate transformation and multiple-grid technique are utilized here to simplify the computation domain and to facilitate the applications of the boundary conditions on the cylinder surfaces. The velocity potential, free-surface elevation and subsequent evolution of the scattered wave field are numerically evaluated. The hydrodynamic forces on each cylinder during wave impact are also determined. A study of the sheltering effect by the neighboring structures on wave loads is conducted. It is found that the presence of the neighboring cylinder has shown significant influence on the wave loads and the scattering of the primary incident waves. For two transversely arranged cylinders, the transverse force coefficient increases as the separation distance decreases. 相似文献
6.
An extremely large (“freak”) wave is a typical though rare phenomenon observed in the sea. Special theories (for example, the modulation instability theory) were developed to explain mechanics and appearance of freak waves as a result of nonlinear wave-wave interactions. In this paper, it is demonstrated that the freak wave appearance can be also explained by superposition of linear modes with the realistic spectrum. The integral probability of trough-to-crest waves is calculated by two methods: the first one is based on the results of the numerical simulation of a wave field evolution performed with one-dimensional and two-dimensional nonlinear models. The second method is based on calculation of the same probability over the ensembles of wave fields constructed as a superposition of linear waves with random phases and the spectrum similar to that used in the nonlinear simulations. It is shown that the integral probabilities for nonlinear and linear cases are of the same order of values 相似文献
7.
The exact and approximate probability density functions of wave peaks and troughs are derived for nonlinear, narrow-band waves. A comparison of these quantities with those of linear waves is given. It is shown that nonlinearity has significant effect on these quantities. 相似文献
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9.
This is a Part I of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. First, considerations are given in order to verify the theoretical expression for bound waves from observed data. We compare the contribution of bound waves and double Bragg scattering to the second-order scattering, and we show that the contribution of bound waves is larger, and that bound waves can be detected by measuring the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio wave scattering from the sea surface. Moreover, if the theory of the HF radio wave scattering from the sea surface is verified, so is the second-order perturbation theory for bound waves. Then, the contributions of bound waves to ocean wave spectra are investigated on the basis of the nonlinear theory. The bound waves are shown to modify frequency spectra and wave directional distributions at higher frequencies, and it is shown that although the modifications of frequency spectra are smaller for a two-dimensional field case than for a one-dimensional field case, they are not negligible at higher frequencies. On the other hand, the modifications of wave directional distributions are shown to be significant at higher frequencies. These discussions become significant only when bound wave predictions are verified in the open ocean. Consequently, it is shown that nonlinearities of water waves are important in considering both radio wave scattering from the sea surface and the detailed structures of ocean wave spectra at high frequencies. 相似文献
10.
徐肇廷 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1989,(3)
本文从流体力学基本方程组出发,在非地转条件下导得了分层海洋的内孤立波方程—Kbv和mKdv方程,证实了在非地转条件下,一类海洋非线性波动是可以严格满足内孤立波方程的。在地转条件下采用f平面近似导出了KdV方程的演化形式一有源KdV方程,地转的影响含于源项中。由初步的分析得出,f对KdV方程的影响是微弱的。由已得的KdV和mKdV方程的解可知,内孤立波与线性波有着本质差别。 相似文献
11.
Ping Chang 《Journal of Oceanography》1993,49(5):477-489
The effects of short waves on the propagration of velocity discontinuity along the interface of two uniform potential vorticity, zones on anf-plane is examined. It is shown, using a multiple scale analysis, that the dispersion introduced by the short waves can balance the nonlinear steepening effects predicted by the semigeostrophic theory. The time evolution of a shear disturbance along the front is governed by a Korteweg-de Vries equation. Numerical solutions of the solitary waves along the front are presented. 相似文献
12.
By the method of asymptotic multiscale expansions in the Boussinesq approximation, we study nonlinear effects observed in
the process of propagation of internal waves with regard for the turbulent viscosity and diffusion. We determine the decrement
of attenuation of waves and the boundary-layer solutions at the bottom and on the free surface. The wave-induced mean current
is found in the second order of smallness in the wave steepness. The coefficients of the nonlinear Schr?dinger equation are
obtained for the envelope of the wave packet. It is shown that a weakly nonlinear plane wave is stable under longitudinal
modulation in the long-wave limit. If the wavelength is smaller than a certain critical value, then the wave is unstable under
modulation. 相似文献
13.
This is a Part II of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. As shown in Part I, bound waves in deep sea are detectable by extracting secondorder Doppler spectra from the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio waves scattered from the sea surface. There is a remarkable agreement between the calculated and measured Doppler spectra, considering the noise levels in measured Doppler spectra and the uncertainties in directional properties. The theoretical expression for bound waves is thus verified. Furthermore, the upper limit in calculating the Doppler spectra for the second-order approximation is presented from field observations, although we cannot conclude that it is equivalent to the limitation of the second-order bound wave theory. It is shown that analysis of radio wave scattering by the sea surface is one useful means of understanding the nonlinear properties of ocean waves. 相似文献
14.
An efficient focusing model for generation of freak waves 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves. 相似文献
15.
16.
自然海况下波浪特性的初步研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
赵栋梁 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2002,32(6):853-858
通过分析大量的外海浮标观测资料 ,发现波龄和无因次波高之间存在非常好的相关性 ,自然海况下的波浪场满足 3/ 5指数律 ,其波龄可达到几十 ,远远超过风浪波龄的上限 1 .4,说明波浪组成波之间波 -波共振非线性相互作用是波浪内部结构的主要调节机制 ,使波高和周期之间具有很好的相关性。 相似文献
17.
The random long wave runup on a beach of constant slope is studied in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow water theory. These solutions are used for calculation of the statistical characteristics of the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline and its horizontal velocity. It is shown that probability characteristics of the runup heights and extreme values of the shoreline velocity coincide in the linear and nonlinear theory. If the incident wave is represented by a narrow-band Gaussian process, the runup height is described by a Rayleigh distribution. The significant runup height can also be found within the linear theory of long wave shoaling and runup. Wave nonlinearity nearshore does not affect the Gaussian probability distribution of the velocity of the moving shoreline. However the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline becomes non-Gaussian due to the wave nonlinearity. Its statistical moments are calculated analytically. It is shown that the mean water level increases (setup), the skewness is always positive and kurtosis is positive for weak amplitude waves and negative for strongly nonlinear waves. The probability of the wave breaking is also calculated and conditions of validity of the analytical theory are discussed. The spectral and statistical characteristics of the moving shoreline are studied in detail. It is shown that the probability of coastal floods grows with an increase in the nonlinearity. Randomness of the wave field nearshore leads to an increase in the wave spectrum width. 相似文献
18.
THE NONLINEAR INTERNAL GRAVITY WAVES IN STRATIFIED FLUID 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
In this paper, starting from the equations of the nonlinear internal gravity waves in stratified fluid, using the method of the Taylor expansion nearby the equilibrium point for the nonlinear terms, we find the analytical solutions for nonlinear internal gravity waves. The linear internal gravity waves and solitary waves are its special cases. The nonlinear internal gravity waves satisfy the well-known KdV (Karteweg-de Vries) equation. The nonlinear internal gravity waves are different from linear waves in character. The former dispersive relation contains the amplitude, but the latter does not. The larger the amplitude and the wavelength the faster are waves for the nonlinear internal gravity waves. The smaller the stability of the stratification, the larger is the wavelength (or the width). Some phenomena such as squall line, cumulus, turbulent mass structure in atmosphere, and thermocline in ocean have these natures. 相似文献
19.
In the Boussinesq approximation, we study the nonlinear effects observed in the process of propagation of internal waves in
the presence of turbulence. The space damping factor of the waves is evaluated. The Stokes drift velocity and the Euler velocity
of the mean current induced by waves due to the presence of nonlinearity are determined. It is shown that the principal contribution
to the wave transfer is made by the horizontal velocity of the induced current. The Stokes drift is significant only near
the bottom. The vertical component of the Stokes drift velocity obtained with regard for the turbulent viscosity is nonzero. 相似文献
20.
The interaction between mechanically generated regular waves and wind waves is experimentally investigated in a wind-wave tunnel. It is shown that the growth process of regular waves is divided into the four distinct stages as follows: (1) almost independent coexistence of wind waves and regular waves, (2) attenuation of wind waves with simultaneous growth of regular waves, (3) rapid growth of regular waves after disappearance of wind waves, and (4) transition of regular waves to wind waves after the wave breaking. At the second stage there is an apparent relation between the attenuation of wind waves and the growth of regular waves. This fact suggests that there is some strong nonlinear interactions which transfers energy effectively from wind waves to regular waves. 相似文献