共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
1.
Kuniaki Okuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1982,38(1):28-42
The internal flow structure of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel was investigated on the bases of the measured vorticity distributions, streamline patterns, internal pressure fields, and stress distributions at the water surface for some waves in the field. In part I the experimental method and the internal vorticity structure relative to the individual wave crests are described. The measured vorticity distributions of distinct waves (waves with waveheight comparable with or larger than that of significant wavesH 1/3) in the field indicate that the surface vorticity layer is extraordinarily thickened near the crest, and the vorticity near the water surface shows a particularly large value below the crest. The flow near the crest of distinct waves is found to be in excess of the phase speed in a very thin surface layer, and the tangential stress distribution has a dominant peak near the crest. It is argued that the occurrence of the region of high vorticity in distinct waves is associated with the local generation of vorticity near the crest by tangential stress which attains a peak, under the presence of excess flow. 相似文献
2.
Kuniaki Okuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1982,38(5):313-322
Characteristic features of the internal flow field of short wind waves are described mainly on the basis of streamline patterns measured for four different cases of individual wave. In some waves a distinct high vorticity region, with flow in excess of the phase speed in the surface thin layer, is formed near the crest as shown in Part I of this study, but the streamlines are found to remain quite regular even very near the water surface. The characteristics of flow in the high vorticity region are investigated, and it is argued that the high vorticity region is not supported steadily in individual waves but that growth and attenuation in individual waves repeats systematically, without no severe wave breaking. Below the surface vorticity layer a quite regular wave motion dominates. However, this wave motion is strongly affected by the presence of the high vorticity region. By comparing the measured streamline profiles with those predicted from wave profiles by the use of a water-wave theory, it is found that the flow of the wind waves studied cannot be predicted, even approximately, from the surface displacements, in contrast to the case of pure irrotational water waves. 相似文献
3.
- Starting from satellite remote sensing data, the dynamical processes of shear waves occurring at the boundary between the western boundary current and the shelf slope water are studied and dynamically analyzed in this study. The average wavelength is 75 km, and the average amplitude (from crest to trough )17 km. the average phase speed 100 cms-1 for the shear waves along the north wall of the Gulf Stream to the east of Cape Hatteras measured from NOAA satellite IR (infrared ) images. The average wavelength of shear waves along the north wall of the Kuroshio Current is 57 km, and the average amplitude 17 km. For the shear waves occurring along the west wall of the Gulf Stream to the south of Cape Hatteras, the average wavelength is 131 km, and the average amplitude 33 km measured from Seasat SAR (synthetic aperture radar )images. The time for one cycle of shear wave event is about one week.In order to explore the dynamical mechanisms of shear waves, we solved the vorticity equation for a stratified flu 相似文献
4.
Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》1998,54(4):343-346
The central physics of capillary waves (or ripples) can be understood by an elementary method which makes use of the balance
of static and dynamic pressure differences along the surface streamline between crest and trough, in the steady reference
frame, and conservation of mass through vertical cross-sections beneath crest and trough. Basically Einstein’s (1916) model
of surface gravity waves is adapted for the purpose of explaining the existence of capillary waves of infinitesimal amplitude.
One product of the physical understanding, the phase speed of capillary waves, is derived as a function of the wave length
and surface tension and the result agrees exactly with that obtained by the classical mathematical procedure. In the elementary
method it is not necessary to assume irrotational flow, upon which the classical theory is founded, nor are perturbation expansions
of the nonlinear fluid equations employed. The extension to capillary-gravity waves, by including the acceleration of gravity
in the physical model, is straightforward, and the calculated phase speed of these waves is identical to what is found in
the text books as well. 相似文献
5.
A model for the downward transfer of wind momentum is derived for growing waves. It is shown that waves, which grow due to an uneven pressure distribution on the water surface or a wave-coherent surface shear stress have horizontal velocities out of phase with the surface elevation. Further, if the waves grow in the x-direction, while the motion is perhaps time-periodic at any fixed point, the Reynolds stresses associated with the organized motion are positive. This is in agreement with several field and laboratory measurements which were previously unexplained, and the new theory successfully links measured wave growth rates and measured sub-surface Reynolds stresses. Wave coherent air pressure (and/or surface shear stress) is shown to change the speed of wave propagation as well as inducing growth or decay. From air pressure variations that are in phase with the surface elevation, the influence on the waves is simply a phase speed increase. For pressure variations out of phase with surface elevation, both growth (or decay) and phase speed changes occur. The theory is initially developed for long waves, after which the velocity potential and dispersion relation for linear waves in arbitrary depth are given. The model enables a sounder model for the transfer to storm surges or currents of momentum from breaking waves in that it does not rely entirely on ad-hoc turbulent diffusion. Future models of atmosphere-ocean exchanges should also acknowledge that momentum is transferred partly by the organized wave motion, while other species, like heat and gasses, may rely totally on turbulent diffusion. The fact that growing wind waves do in fact not generally obey the dispersion relation for free waves may need to be considered in future wind wave development models. 相似文献
6.
The interaction between current-free higher-order water waves with a wave-free uniform current normal to the wave crests is considered. The combined wave-current motion resulting from the interaction is assumed stable and irrotational. The velocity potential, dispersion relation, the particle kinematics and pressure distribution up to the third order in wave amplitude are developed. The conservation of mean mass, momentum and energy, together with the dispersion relation on the free surface are used to derive a set of four nonlinear equations, through which the relationship between wave-free current, current-free wave and the combined wave-current parameters is established. Numerical results for a range of current values are also presented. 相似文献
7.
Takeshi Uji 《Journal of Oceanography》1978,34(5):189-203
In the framework of linear wave theory both the effects of tangential and normal stresses on the water waves are discussed without the assumption of irrotational water motion. A formal solution initially at rest with level surface and developed under the actions of the surface stresses depending arbitrarily on time and sinusoidally on space is obtained.A progressive wave type tangential stress whose wave number and frequency are satisfying the dispersion relation of the water waves is shown to be equivalent to the normal stress of the same type on the growth of the waves except the phase relations between the stresses and the water motion. The growth rate of the waves induced by the tangential stress is also shown to be quite insensitive to the actual value of the viscosity.The rotational part of the water motion can dominate only in the early stage of wave generation and becomes negligible with the growth of the waves relative to the irrotational part of the motion even in the case where the motion is induced by the tangential stress alone. Therefore it is not reasonable to neglect effect of the tangential stress on wind waves even if the developed wind waves seem to be irrotational. 相似文献
8.
Yoshiaki Toba Masayuki Tokuda Kuniaki Okuda Sanshiro Kawai 《Journal of Oceanography》1975,31(5):192-198
Wind-wave tunnel experiments reveal, by use of techniques of the flow visualization, that wind waves are accompanied by the wind drift surface current with large velocity shear and with horizontal variation of velocity relative to the wave profile. The surface current converges from the crest to a little leeward face of the crest, making a downward flow there, even though the wave is not breaking. Namely, wind waves are accompanied by forced convections relative to the crests of the waves. Since the location of the convergence and the downward flow travels on the water surface as the crest of the wave propagates, the motion as a whole is characterized by turbulent structure as well as by the nature of water-surface waves. In this meaning, the term of real wind waves is proposed in contrast with ordinary water waves. The study of real wind waves will be essential in future development of the study of wind waves. 相似文献
9.
Measurements of local values of the skin friction have been made at many points along the surface of representative wind wave crests in a wind wave tunnel, by use of the distortion of hydrogen-bubble lines. The results obtained at 2.85-m fetch under 6.2 m s–1 mean wind speed show that the intensity of the skin friction varies greatly along the surface of wind waves as a function of the phase angle. It increases rather continuously at the windward surface toward the crest, attains a value of about 12 dyn cm–2 near the crest, decreases suddenly just past the crest, and the value at the lee surface is substantially zero Values of the skin friction thus determined along the representative wind waves give an average value of 3.6 dyn cm–2, rather exceeding the overall stress value of 3.0 dyn cm–2, which has been estimated from the wind profile. The results are interpreted as that the skin friction bears most of the shearing stress of wind, and that it exerts most intensively around the representative wave crests at their windward faces. 相似文献
10.
作者综述了南沙海域内波及细结构研究现状。首先介绍研究中所用的国际或国内首次使用的一些研究方法,它们包括最基础的ＣＴＤ资料质量控制的方法,浮力频率计算方法、频散关系和波函数计算方法,细结构概率分布假设检验方法,内波检测方法,内潮计算的谱差分方法等。而后总结所得的研究成果（其中一部分是首次发表的）,它们包括南沙海区浮力频率的分类及其随地域和季节的变化规律;内波频散关系和波函数;细结构特性及其与内波的关系;细结构的非高斯概率分布特性;垂向波数谱特性及其随季节、地域及水层的变化;频率特性;Ｃｏｘ 数及其概率分布;内潮特性等。最后对今后研究方向作了展望。 相似文献
11.
The paper concentrates on the evolution of a spectrum of short wind waves (SW) along the profile of a long surface wave (LW).
Short wave spectral variations are considered in the relaxation approximation. The SW spectrum is modulated by the orbital
velocities of long waves and by the variations of wind stress along the LW profile. The latter effect occurs due to wind flux
perturbations induced by both the long wave proper and variations of the sea surface roughness induced by the SW modulations.
To describe this effect, a feedback mechanism is introduces—the growth of energy of short waves results in the larger roughness
of the sea surface, thereby contributing to the local wind stress, which facilitates, in turn, the growth of short waves.
With moderate and strong winds being involved, this effect (aerodynamic feedback) is shown to be dominant in the short wave
spectrum modulation. The mechanism becomes more efficient with intensification of the wind and decreasing of the long waves'
frequency. Results of model calculations are in agreement with the known experimental data.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
12.
We give a mathematical representation of random ocean surface waves in the gravity-wave regime. The so-called random gravity waves are treated as an asymptotic phenomenon when the wind pressure acting on the surface and the dissipation become negligible. We adopt a phenomenological model for the wind pressure such that it excites a surface consisting of wind-driven sea and swell. Starting from the Navier-Stokes equations, we derive a general system of the first-order perturbation equations governing the surface waves, and solve them with this wind pressure as the excitation. The resulting solution is decomposed into a part which is asymptotically dominant and another which is asymptotically negligible. The former consists of two groups: one which is a sum of superpositions of uncorrelated plane waves having approximate dispersion relations and the other a sum of random plane waves with their wavenumbers and frequencies approximately satisfying the dispersion relation. They correspond to the dominant parts of the wind-driven sea and the swell, respectively. Finally, we derive a limiting form of the directional-frequency spectrum in the gravity-wave regime. 相似文献
13.
Masayuki Tokuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1972,28(6):242-253
Taylor-Grörtler vortices are longitudinal vortices resulting from a centrifugal instability. They are generated in the flow having a curved streamline with an increasing velocity in the direction of decreasing curvature.It is shown that the air flow above wind waves and swells also satisfies locally the condition of the centrifugal instability. Numerical calculations indicate the possibility of generation of Taylor-Görtler vortices on the trough of sea waves. For example, when a wind of about 12.2 m/s at 10-m level is blowing over sea waves of the wave length of 15 m like the swell, the critical water wave height beyond which the vortices may be generated is about 0.5 m, and the critical wave length and the height of center of the generated vortices are about 24 m and 3.7 m, respectively. Further, about the relations between the generation of vortices and wind waves, it is shown that the condition of their generation is satisfied at the trough of waves for early stages of the wave generation.In conclusion, it is expected that the Taylor-Görtler vortices change the wind profile along the sea surface, and also, play some part in the growth of wind waves, especially in the formation of their three dimensional structure. 相似文献
14.
Real-time monitoring of wind and surface waves in Otsuchi Bay, Iwate, Tohoku, Japan, commenced in October 2012, using a mooring buoy with an ultrasonic anemometer and a single-mode GPS wave sensor. Wind and wave data are distributed hourly in real time via the Internet along with a chart of their time series. We analyzed data monitored in the first 3 months in order to assess the variability and occurrence of wind and waves and to elucidate the main reasons for wave variation in Otsuchi Bay. The monitoring data revealed that surface waves in the bay were predominantly affected by swells propagated from the northeastern offshore region and that the wave height was significantly correlated with the component of wind velocity toward Otsuchi Bay in the northeastern offshore region that faces the bay mouth. The offshore wind field was expected to provide information useful for predicting coastal waves in a ria bay in Sanriku such as Otsuchi Bay. However, it should be emphasized that the horizontal distribution of the offshore wind field which has a significant effect on the surface waves in a ria bay depends heavily on the topographic shape of the bay. 相似文献
15.
G. S. Golitsyn 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2010,46(1):6-13
The problems of wind-induced waves on the sea surface are considered. To this end, the empirical fetch laws that determine
variations in the basic periods and heights of waves in relation to their fetch are used. The relation between the fetch and
the physical time is found, as are the dependences of the basic characteristics of waves on the time of wind forcing. It is
found that about 5% of wind energy dissipated in the near-water air layer contributes to the growth of wave heights, i.e.
wave energy, although this quantity depends on the age of waves and the exponent in the fetch laws. With consideration for
estimates of the probability distribution functions for the wind over the world ocean [11], it is found that the rate of wind-energy
dissipation in the near-water air layer is on the order of 1 W/m2. The calculations of wind waves [19] for the world ocean for 2007 have made it possible to assess the mean characteristics
of the cycle of wave development and their seasonal variations. An analysis of these calculations [19] shows that about 20%
of wind energy is transferred to the water surface. The remaining amount (80%) of wind energy is spent on the generation of
turbulence in the near-water air layer. About 2%, i.e., one tenth of the energy transferred to water, is spent on turbulence
generation due to the instability of the vertical velocity profile of the Stokes drift current and on energy dissipation in
the surf zones. Of the remaining 18%, 5% is spent directly on wave growth and 13% is spent on the generation of turbulence
during wave breaking and on a small-scale spectral region. These annually and globally mean estimates have a seasonal cycle
with an amplitude on the order of 20% in absolute values but with a smaller amplitude in relative values. According to [19]
and to the results of this study, the annually mean height of waves is estimated as 2.7 m and their age is estimated as 1.17. 相似文献
16.
17.
V. I. Mordvinov E. V. Devyatova O. S. Kochetkova O. A. Oznobikhina 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2013,49(1):55-65
Low-frequency disturbances responsible for the excitation of torsional oscillations—variations in the zonal mean flow intensity with a characteristic scale of 15–20 days—propagating along the meridian at mid and low latitudes of both hemispheres are investigated [1]. As data observed over the eastern parts of continents and the western parts of oceans are processed with the lag correlation statistics, traveling waves intersecting the eastern parts of continents from northwest to southeast and then returning to the north along the ocean coasts are identified. In this case, trains of anomalies oriented in the zonal direction periodically appear and are destructed in the western parts of continents. The simulation of the propagation of disturbances in the quasi-geostrophic approximation made it possible to explain the specific features of lag correlation statistics over continents by the dispersion of two-dimensional Rossby waves from traveling sources. The turnover of disturbances over Asia and wave trains to the west from the pole were reproduced. Torsional oscillations caused by the dispersion of two-dimensional Rossby waves have a characteristic form of inclined bands in the latitude-time diagram, whose steepness is controlled by the velocity of displacement of the vorticity source along the meridian. 相似文献
18.
Masayuki Tokuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1976,32(3):128-138
The instability of Taylor-Görtler vortices which are expected in the air flow on water waves was studied in part I, under the assumption that the curvature around the crest or the trough of water waves, where the instability was expected to take place first, was constant, namely that the characteristics of the vortices were affected little by the local change of the curvature along the direction of the progress of water waves (the direction ofx-axis) However, the curvature actually varies from positive to negative, or vice versa. In order to study this effect, the instability of Taylor-Görtler vortices is examined with respect to the range of the part of a constant curvature, in the model in which the curvature is positive constant near the trough and negative constant near the crest, and zero in the intermediate regions, respectively. It is shown that as the region of the constant curvature becomes narrower, the instability tends to weaken. For the same example with part I, namely, when the wind of 12.2 m s–1 is blowing over swells of 15 m in wavelength, if the range of constant curvature near the trough is taken as a quarter of one wave length, the critical wave height becomes 0.96 m instead of 0.50 m, and conversely, the wave length and the height of center of the vortex become 11.9 m and 2.1 m instead of 24 m and 3.7 m, respectively.Further, using the energy equations, quantitative estimates are performed of the intensity of the vortices which develop when the wave height of the swell is 1.05 m in the above described example, and also of the influence of the vortices upon the wind profile when the equilibrium state is reached. When the vortices are generated and grow to attain to an equilibrium state interacting with the mean flow, the maximumx-component of velocity in the vortices is about 1.04 m s–1. Consequently, the wind profile undergoes a considerable distortion from the logarithmic one near the level of 2 m height. This distorted wind profile has a form similar to those sometimes observed above the sea surface. 相似文献
19.
20.
Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》1991,47(2):45-48
The cyclostrophic balance (pressure forcevs. force centrifugal force) is shown to be satisfied for all fluid particles in surface gravity waves with sinusoidal form and
circular particle orbits. Consequences of the cyclostrophic balance are 1) that the normal dispersion relation for deep water
hold and 2) that the orbital radius decrease with increasing depth at the usual exponential rate, from which it follows that
the wave pressure and particle speed also decrease with depth exponentially. In addition, the cyclostrophic and hydrostatic
balances together predict wave breaking at the crests for amplitudes exceeding one divided by the wave number. In contrast
to the traditional perturbation method, based on irrotational flow, the cyclostrophic method does not demand that the amplitude
be much less than a wave length and does not require an infinite wave train. 相似文献