共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 500 毫秒
1.
Kuniaki Okuda Sanshiro Kawai Masayuki Tokuda Yoshiaki Toba 《Journal of Oceanography》1976,32(2):53-64
Detailed observations were performed of the wind-exerted surface flow, before and after the generation of wind waves. As flow visualization techniques, 6 classes of polystyrene beads of from 0.33 mm to 1.93 mm in diameter, with a specific gravity of 0.99, and also, hydrogen bubble lines, were used. Experiments were carried out at three ranges of the wind speed: 4.0, 6.2 and 8.6ms–1 in the mean in the wind-wave tunnel section, and the observations were made at 2.85 m in fetch. In the case of 6.2 m s–1, when the initial surface skin flow attains 0.22 cm in the scale thickness and 16 cm s–1 in the surface velocity in about 3 second from the onset of the wind, regular waves of about 1.7 cm in wave length appear on the water surface. In one second after that, the downward thrust of the surface flow and the consequent forced convection commences, and the transition of the surface layer to a turbulent state occurs. Ordinary wind waves begin to develop from this state. In developed wind waves the viscous skin flow grows on the windward side of the crests, frequently producing macroscopic skin flows, and these skin flows converge to make a downward thrust at the lee side, and the viscous skin layer disappears there. The velocity of the downward flow has a maximum at the phase of about 30, and the value is of the order of 10 cm s–1 at 4-mm depth after the orbital velocity of the sinusoidal wave is subtracted. As the process through which the wind stress acts on the water surface, it is considered that the following particular one may be real: the skin friction concentrated at the windward side of the crest produces skin flows, which thrust into the inner region to make the forced convection, carrying the acquired momentum. The viscous shearing stress just before the generation of the surface undurations was about 1/4 of the total shearing stress under the existence of wind waves. It is considered that the increase of the wind stress by wind waves is caused by this mechanism. 相似文献
2.
Kuniaki Okuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1982,38(5):313-322
Characteristic features of the internal flow field of short wind waves are described mainly on the basis of streamline patterns measured for four different cases of individual wave. In some waves a distinct high vorticity region, with flow in excess of the phase speed in the surface thin layer, is formed near the crest as shown in Part I of this study, but the streamlines are found to remain quite regular even very near the water surface. The characteristics of flow in the high vorticity region are investigated, and it is argued that the high vorticity region is not supported steadily in individual waves but that growth and attenuation in individual waves repeats systematically, without no severe wave breaking. Below the surface vorticity layer a quite regular wave motion dominates. However, this wave motion is strongly affected by the presence of the high vorticity region. By comparing the measured streamline profiles with those predicted from wave profiles by the use of a water-wave theory, it is found that the flow of the wind waves studied cannot be predicted, even approximately, from the surface displacements, in contrast to the case of pure irrotational water waves. 相似文献
3.
Kuniaki Okuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1982,38(1):28-42
The internal flow structure of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel was investigated on the bases of the measured vorticity distributions, streamline patterns, internal pressure fields, and stress distributions at the water surface for some waves in the field. In part I the experimental method and the internal vorticity structure relative to the individual wave crests are described. The measured vorticity distributions of distinct waves (waves with waveheight comparable with or larger than that of significant wavesH 1/3) in the field indicate that the surface vorticity layer is extraordinarily thickened near the crest, and the vorticity near the water surface shows a particularly large value below the crest. The flow near the crest of distinct waves is found to be in excess of the phase speed in a very thin surface layer, and the tangential stress distribution has a dominant peak near the crest. It is argued that the occurrence of the region of high vorticity in distinct waves is associated with the local generation of vorticity near the crest by tangential stress which attains a peak, under the presence of excess flow. 相似文献
4.
为研究孤立波作用下结构物周围流场特征,基于无网格SPH方法,建立孤立波与海洋结构物相互作用模型,对不同波幅孤立波作用下部分淹没矩形结构物周围波面、流速、涡量及结构受力特征进行计算分析,探索了相对波高对非淹没结构物周围流场的影响规律。结果表明:流场特征与相对波高密切相关,相对波高较小时,波面、流速、涡量及结构荷载均较为光滑,相对波高在0.2以上时,波峰爬升至结构物顶部并在越过结构物后与水槽内水体碰撞造成流场波动,波面、流速、涡量及结构荷载的波动幅度随着相对波高增大而增大,流场更加复杂,结构物水平和垂向负压也越大,且结构物周围涡分布逐渐向深度方向和下游方向发展。 相似文献
5.
为研究内孤立波的地形和背景流共振机制,用地形和背景流共振机制计算了3个潜标观测的内孤立波(不同模态、不同波长)的流速和传播速度,并与观测到的内孤立波进行比较。潜标观测的第一模态内孤立波(波长分别为6.4和3.3km)都是下凹型内孤立波,2个内孤立波的传播速度约为1.4m/s、最大振幅约为48m,水平流向结构都是上层西北向、下层东南向,波长3.3km 的内孤立波波峰前后有更明显的下降流和上升流。用共振机制计算出的第一模态和第二模态纬向流速的垂向结构与观测相同,最大纬向流速出现的深度与观测一致,分别相差5和12m。用共振机制计算出的内孤立波传播速度与用 KdV 方程计算的传播速度相当,共振机制计算波速为0.66~1.21m/s,KdV 方程计算波速为0.79~1.40m/s。 相似文献
6.
7.
This paper illustrates the modulation of the eddy scale distribution due to superimposition of surface wave on only current flow. Time series data of three-dimensional velocity components were measured in a laboratory flume by a three-dimensional (3D) 16-MHz micro-acoustic Doppler velocimeter (Micro-ADV). The velocity time series of only current case and waves following the current were analysed to obtain the phase-averaged mean velocities, turbulent intensities, and Reynolds stress. The probability density function of phase-averaged stream-wise and vertical velocity fluctuations showed bimodal oscillations towards the free surface for higher frequency surface waves. It was revealed that surface waves along the current effectively decrease the intermittency of turbulence of the only current flow. Surface wave changed the intermittent structure of only current flow by modulation of the energy cascade mechanism of the only current flow by introduction of wave induced length scales. Also the scale of the finer dissipative eddies were prominently enhanced by the increase in surface wave frequency. Wavelet analysis of time series of velocity signals provided information on the eddy scale and their frequency of occurrence. It was found that the large eddies are carried by the crest regions of the progressive wave while the small scale eddies are carried by the trough regions. 相似文献
8.
The accuracy of several asymptotic series expansions for wave speed and particle velocity under the crest of a solitary wave (on a fluid at rest) up to maximum height is investigated. The very accurate numerical results of Williams (1985) are the measure for our comparisons. The results are based on a scaling of calculated properties of long periodic waves to the case of solitary waves.For wave speeds the classical Boussinesq–Rayleigh expression gives good agreement up to a relative wave height of, say, 0.3. An asymptotic fourth-order expression based on Fenton (1990) can be used up to a relative wave height of 0.7, whereas the corresponding fifth-order expression is slightly less accurate.The Eulerian particle velocity profile under the wave crest is examined using a cnoidal wave expression from Fenton (1990) in the limit of the solitary wave. For low waves a `consistent' (i.e. properly truncated) fifth-order expression and an `inconsistent' ditto both coincide with Williams' results. Beginning at medium high waves, the consistent expression surprisingly exhibits oscillations in the velocity profile, and the oscillations become stronger as the wave gets higher. The inconsistent expression, however, yields the same shape as Williams' profile, but is displaced parallel to this, resulting in slightly larger velocities. For high waves also the inconsistent expression begins to differ in shape from Williams' profile, and asymptotic theory fails. Only for low waves `lowest order theory' gives acceptable results. We show analytically that for the highest wave the particle velocity profile has a horizontal tangent at the water surface; this is corroborated by Williams' numerical results.We also study the particle velocity at the wave crest as a function of wave height. It is shown that the variation has a vertical tangent for the highest wave. Two fifth-order asymptotic series for this velocity, based on the wave speed through the Bernoulli equation, show very good agreement with Williams up to a relative wave height of about 0.6.It is finally shown that it is possible to produce very accurate rational-function approximations to Williams' results for the wave speed as well as for the particle velocity at the wave crest. 相似文献
9.
Kuniaki Okuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1983,38(6):331-338
For wind waves generated in a wind-wave tunnel, the surface pressure and also the pressure distribution along the internal streamlines were calculated from the measured internal velocity field. In distinct waves, with wave height comparable with or larger than the mean, the surface pressure is found to vary drastically in a narrow region around the crest, showing a dominant minimum near the crest. On the other hand, the pressure distribution along the streamline shows systematic variations that are nearly in phase with the streamline profile. It is shown that the occurrence of the pressure in phase with the streamline profile is linked with the internal vorticity distribution, especially with the presence of a high vorticity region below the crest described in Part I of this study. As a result of the occurrence of such pressure variations, the dispersion relation is modified by about 10% from that for linear irrotational waves. It is argued from the present measurements that the dispersion relation and also the energy transfer from wind into wind waves are strongly affected by the internal vortical structure so that the assumption of irrotational gravity waves cannot be applied to the wind waves being studied. 相似文献
10.
Kuniaki Okuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(1):46-56
The minimum value of wind stress under which the flow velocity in short wind waves exceeds the phase speed is estimated by calculating the laminar boundary layer flow induced by the surface tangential stress with a dominant peak at the wave crest as observed in previous experiments. The minimum value of the wind stress is found to depend strongly on, the ratio of the flow velocity just below the boundary layer and the phase speed, but weakly onL, the wavelength. For wind waves previously studied (=0.5,L=10 cm), the excess flow appears when the air friction velocityu
* is larger than about 30 cm sec–1. The present results confirm that the excess flow found in my previous experiments is associated with the local growth of a laminar boundary layer flow near the wave crest. 相似文献
11.
Jacobus P. Le Roux Zeki Demirbilek Marysia Brodalka Burghard W. Flemming 《Geo-Marine Letters》2010,30(5):549-560
The generation and growth of waves in deep water is controlled by winds blowing over the sea surface. In fully developed sea
states, where winds and waves are in equilibrium, wave parameters may be calculated directly from the wind velocity. We provide
an Excel spreadsheet to compute the wave period, length, height and celerity, as well as horizontal and vertical particle
velocities for any water depth, bottom slope, and distance below the reference water level. The wave profile and propagation
can also be visualized for any water depth, modeling the sea surface change from sinusoidal to trochoidal and finally cnoidal
profiles into shallow water. Bedload entrainment is estimated under both the wave crest and the trough, using the horizontal
water particle velocity at the top of the boundary layer. The calculations are programmed in an Excel file called WAVECALC,
which is available online to authorized users. Although many of the recently published formulas are based on theoretical arguments,
the values agree well with several existing theories and limited field and laboratory observations. WAVECALC is a user-friendly
program intended for sedimentologists, coastal engineers and oceanographers, as well as marine ecologists and biologists.
It provides a rapid means to calculate many wave characteristics required in coastal and shallow marine studies, and can also
serve as an educational tool. 相似文献
12.
风作用于水面产生风浪, 其中由于波流紊动产生的动量和能量的交换机制是一个很复杂的过程。风应力一般用来描述这种能量交换, 可以分为3个部分: 水面的剪切力、波生应力以及紊动应力。采用一种有效的非线性波流分离方法——NSFM(Nonlinear Stream Function Method)对波流运动的动量和能量输移进行定性描述。构造能够有效表达非线性波浪的解析流函数, 摄动求解使其满足拉普拉斯方程、动力边界条件和运动边界条件, 结合实验室风浪数据, 分离出波生速度场。通过交叉谱分析, 得到波生雷诺应力在不同风速下对风应力的贡献。结果表明: NSFM对不同工况条件下的风浪的处理具有较高的精度, 模型适应性良好; 且风速越大, 波生应力沿着水深衰减得越快, 且自由面波生应力在动量输移中的比重会逐渐减弱。 相似文献
13.
Masayuki Tokuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1976,32(3):128-138
The instability of Taylor-Görtler vortices which are expected in the air flow on water waves was studied in part I, under the assumption that the curvature around the crest or the trough of water waves, where the instability was expected to take place first, was constant, namely that the characteristics of the vortices were affected little by the local change of the curvature along the direction of the progress of water waves (the direction ofx-axis) However, the curvature actually varies from positive to negative, or vice versa. In order to study this effect, the instability of Taylor-Görtler vortices is examined with respect to the range of the part of a constant curvature, in the model in which the curvature is positive constant near the trough and negative constant near the crest, and zero in the intermediate regions, respectively. It is shown that as the region of the constant curvature becomes narrower, the instability tends to weaken. For the same example with part I, namely, when the wind of 12.2 m s–1 is blowing over swells of 15 m in wavelength, if the range of constant curvature near the trough is taken as a quarter of one wave length, the critical wave height becomes 0.96 m instead of 0.50 m, and conversely, the wave length and the height of center of the vortex become 11.9 m and 2.1 m instead of 24 m and 3.7 m, respectively.Further, using the energy equations, quantitative estimates are performed of the intensity of the vortices which develop when the wave height of the swell is 1.05 m in the above described example, and also of the influence of the vortices upon the wind profile when the equilibrium state is reached. When the vortices are generated and grow to attain to an equilibrium state interacting with the mean flow, the maximumx-component of velocity in the vortices is about 1.04 m s–1. Consequently, the wind profile undergoes a considerable distortion from the logarithmic one near the level of 2 m height. This distorted wind profile has a form similar to those sometimes observed above the sea surface. 相似文献
14.
Yu. I. Troitskaya D. A. Sergeev O. S. Ermakova G. N. Balandina 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2010,46(1):109-120
In this paper, the results of a laboratory experiment on investigating the wind-velocity field over a water surface using
the PIV method are described. The use of a rapid CCD-camera made it possible to perform a detailed study of the eddy structure
of airflow. We have measured the velocity fields over a flat plate by wind waves and waves induced by a wave generator. The
model of a turbulent boundary layer over a rough surface was directly verified. It has been shown that the wind-velocity profiles
over waves obtained by averaging the instantaneous fields over the ensemble of samples and horizontal coordinate are satisfactorily
consistent with the profiles calculated within the frameworks of the model of wind flow over rough water surface. 相似文献
15.
1 IntroductionIn coastal areas a ubiquitous phenomenon is theformation of ripples in the seabed. It is now widelyaccepted that the flow and sediment transport overseabed are vital in relation to erosion, surface wavedissipation and pollution dispersion et… 相似文献
16.
More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable. 相似文献
17.
This study deals with the general numerical model to simulate the two-dimensional tidal flow, flooding wave (long wave) and shallow water waves (short wave). The foundational model is based on nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Numerical method for modelling the short waves is investigated in detail. The forces, such as Coriolis forces, wind stress, atmosphere and bottom friction, are considered. A two-dimensional implicit difference scheme of Boussinesq equations is proposed. The low-reflection outflow open boundary is suggested. By means of this model,both velocity fields of circulation current in a channel with step expansion and the wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater are computed, and the results are satisfactory. 相似文献
18.
A model for the downward transfer of wind momentum is derived for growing waves. It is shown that waves, which grow due to an uneven pressure distribution on the water surface or a wave-coherent surface shear stress have horizontal velocities out of phase with the surface elevation. Further, if the waves grow in the x-direction, while the motion is perhaps time-periodic at any fixed point, the Reynolds stresses associated with the organized motion are positive. This is in agreement with several field and laboratory measurements which were previously unexplained, and the new theory successfully links measured wave growth rates and measured sub-surface Reynolds stresses. Wave coherent air pressure (and/or surface shear stress) is shown to change the speed of wave propagation as well as inducing growth or decay. From air pressure variations that are in phase with the surface elevation, the influence on the waves is simply a phase speed increase. For pressure variations out of phase with surface elevation, both growth (or decay) and phase speed changes occur. The theory is initially developed for long waves, after which the velocity potential and dispersion relation for linear waves in arbitrary depth are given. The model enables a sounder model for the transfer to storm surges or currents of momentum from breaking waves in that it does not rely entirely on ad-hoc turbulent diffusion. Future models of atmosphere-ocean exchanges should also acknowledge that momentum is transferred partly by the organized wave motion, while other species, like heat and gasses, may rely totally on turbulent diffusion. The fact that growing wind waves do in fact not generally obey the dispersion relation for free waves may need to be considered in future wind wave development models. 相似文献
19.
本文在时域非线性数值波浪水槽中，研究了不同风速条件下极端波浪的特性。采用推板造波的方式生成非线性波浪，基于Jeffrey遮蔽理论将风压项引入自由面动力学边界条件来模拟风压作用，通过高阶边界元法和混合欧拉-拉格朗日时间步进法来求解初边值问题。通过与已发表的聚焦波群实验结果对比验证了该数值模型的准确性，并研究了风压对极端波浪的最大波高、聚焦位置的偏移和波浪谱的演变等波浪性质的影响。本文进一步在数值波浪水槽中引入均匀水流，来模拟风生流对波浪演变的影响。结果表明，风压的存在会少量增大极端波浪的最大波高，波浪的聚焦和解焦过程伴随着明显的能量传递，并且风生流进一步导致了波浪聚焦位置的偏移。 相似文献
20.
The experimental investigation of water waves breaking over a barred beach in a glass walled flume is presented. The time series of the water levels along the flume were measured using wave gauges and video imaging of the water surface, providing estimates of the mean wave-heights and water levels at various positions along the flume. The instantaneous velocity fields were measured using digital correlation image velocimetry for positions beyond the initial breaking point. The mass (/velocity) and momentum fluxes, and kinetic energies were computed from the velocity flow fields by means of phase ensemble averaging and then time averaging of relevant quantities derived from the instantaneous velocity fields. These parameters reached a maximum value some distance shorewards of the break point on the bar. The relative density of the fluid in the crest of the wave, estimated using the forward and reverse velocity fluxes, was found to be in the range from 0.4 to 0.8. Preliminary analysis of the momentum fluxes and mean water levels indicates a decreasing dynamic pressure shorewards of a peak that occurs shortly after wave breaking. 相似文献