共查询到19条相似文献，搜索用时 140 毫秒
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随着我国沿海地区海洋经济的快速发展,相关海域的风浪规律的研究越来越受到人们的重视。依据Toba的风浪3/2指数律和非线性频散关系推导得到一个新的波陡波龄关系式,简化获得适用于深水情况下的波陡波龄关系式;基于考虑非线性频散效应的波龄波陡深水关系式,并结合有效波能量平衡方程,进一步推导出包含非线性频散效应的深水海域风浪公式。利用新的深水风浪公式,并结合Mitsuyasu开阔海域风区、风速经验公式,研究了江苏沿海海域的风浪规律,且与NCEP再分析风浪数据以及其他公式结果进行对比分析。分析结果表明所获得的新深水风浪公式适用范围更广,且在只考虑风速这个单一参数条件下计算得到的江苏外海波浪要素与NCEP再分析风浪数据吻合程度最好,且更接近其他学者的研究成果。计算过程可避免开阔海域风区长度推算的不确定性和人为因素所产生的误差,可为我国风浪成长规律的理论研究和海洋工程深海风浪要素推算提供参考。 相似文献
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风浪和海洋飞沫对海表面拖曳系数和风廓线的影响 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
基于埃克曼理论,本文将波致应力和飞沫应力引入到海-气边界层的界面应力中,来研究海表面风浪和海洋飞沫对海-气边界层动量交换的影响,并得到修改后的埃克曼模型的理论解。波致应力是由风浪谱和波增长函数估计,并得到在中低风速下,波致应力、飞沫应力与湍流应力相比,对海表面拖曳系数和风廓线的影响非常小。当风速高于25米/秒时,海洋飞沫通过飞沫应力对海-气界面应力的作用远高于波致应力,以至于波致应力可以忽略。海表面拖曳系数在高风速下,随着风速的增大而减小。通过采用风浪谱的不同波龄,得到海洋飞沫的产生会导致海-气边界层风速的增加。最后,理论解与现场的观察数据进行了对比。对比后的数据表明,在中高风速下,飞沫对海-气边界层的影响远大于表面风浪。 相似文献
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基于卫星高度计数据、模式数据和同化资料揭示了东印度沿岸流(East India Coastal Current, EICC)年周期上的时空分布特征, 并探讨了其可能的影响机制及热盐输运。在年周期上EICC呈现3种分布状态, 受季风影响, 在东北季风前期(10—12月)和后期(2—5月)为一致的南向(北向)流动; 而6—8月EICC呈3段式分布, 与另外两个时间段明显不同, 表现为9°N以南、16°N以北区域的南向流动和9°—16°N区域的北向流动。前人研究认为印度东海岸的局地风应力是EICC的主要机制, 本研究发现除局地风应力外, 来自孟加拉湾中部的艾克曼抽吸(Ekman Pumping)在全年也发挥着重要作用, 并在2—5月(10—12月)驱动EICC的北向(南向)流动, 而局地风应力则在10—12月有利于EICC的南向流动。EICC是孟加拉湾低盐水向赤道东印度洋和阿拉伯海输运的一个因素, 在海盆间的热盐交换上发挥着重要作用。EICC的热输运在6—12月(2—5月)有利于(不利于)湾内温度的升高; 盐输运则在全年都有利于孟加拉湾内盐度的增加。此外, EICC的一致南向(北向)流动以及3段式结构促进了湾内热盐的再分配, 对于维持北印度洋的热量和盐度收支平衡具有重要作用。 相似文献
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风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。 相似文献
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基于三维潮流和谱波浪模型,以及输移扩散模型和拉格朗日粒子追踪模型,构建了波流耦合下保守污染物的迁移扩散模型。模型基于非结构化网格,对近岸复杂岸线有很好的拟合,可用于大范围波流耦合计算。运用所建的耦合模型研究了旅顺港内外的潮流变化、波生流场、保守污染物输移、粒子运动、以及新水道对湾内污染物迁移的影响,模拟的潮流场与实测数据吻合较好。结果表明:潮流会在湾内近湾口处形成一逆时针涡,波浪对湾内影响较小,但波生流会改变湾口流场分布;在湾内处于涡中的水体潮流自净能力较强,而湾中及湾底则较弱,SE向波浪会降低湾内水体的自净能力;新潮流通道的开挖,会显著改善水体的自净能力,尤其对湾底浅水区域作用明显。 相似文献
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使用风浪经验公式和风浪传入近岸的小振幅波动理论计算并分析了地转条件下波生横向彻体切应力随风速、风区、水深等因素的变化规律。结果表明，彻体切应力随风速、风区的增大而增大，直到波浪达到完全成长状态，但增长速度并不规则；为更加直观的显示彻体切应力的海流驱动作用，将其与定常Ekman漂流中的风生湍粘性力进行了有意义的比较，结果表明，在中、高纬度的通常海况下两者具有相同量级，因此，在有波浪场存在的条件下，由风、浪共生海流的总体强度将比理论Ekman漂流大，并且不会完全符合Ekman漂流理论的转向规律，在表层尤其明显。由此说明，在一定情况下在风生漂流研究中考虑由地转引起的波生横向彻体切应力是非常必要的。 相似文献
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CW系统是交通部天津水运工程科学研究所最近研制成功的一个多功能全过程综合性数值模拟系统。目前,此系统包含以下几个方面的内容:1.风浪预报;2.波浪折射和浅水区波高计算;3.潮流模拟;4.风吹流模拟;5.波浪、潮流综合作用下的波流场模拟;6.悬沙输移、扩散运动;7.浮泥流动;8.海底演变。 相似文献
11.
Fabrice Ardhuin 《Journal of Oceanography》2006,62(6):917-922
In a recent paper, Kenyon (2004) proposed that the wave-induced energy flux is generally not conserved, and that shoaling
waves cause a mean force and torque on the bottom. That force was equated to the divergence of the wave momentum flux estimated
from the assumption that the wave-induced mass flux is conserved. This assumption and conclusions are contrary to a wide body
of observations and theory. Most importantly, waves propagate in water, so that the momentum balance generally involves the
mean water flow. Although the expression for the non-hydrostatic bottom force given by Kenyon is not supported by observations,
a consistent review of existing theory shows that a smaller mean wave-induced force must be present in cases with bottom friction
or wave reflection. That force exactly balances the change in wave momentum flux due to bottom friction and the exchange of
wave momentum between incident and reflected wave components. The remainder of the wave momentum flux divergence, due to shoaling
or wave breaking, is compensated by the mean flow, with a balance involving hydrostatic pressure forces that arise from a
change in mean surface elevation that is very well verified by observations. 相似文献
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海-气界面动量通量的估计方法分析与应用 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：2
首次将经验模态分解方法引入湍流稳定性分析,与传统的线性和滑动平均去势方法进行了比较,发现经验模态分解方法的去势效果最好。基于"南海平台通量观测计划"(FOPSCS)近两年的连续通量观测数据,得到了22 476个摩擦速度的估算值,结果表明,当风速小于5m/s时,拖曳系数随风速增大而减小,而风速大于5m/s时,拖曳系数随风速增大而增大,两种情形分别反映了黏性表皮摩擦和波浪引起的形状阻力对海面风应力的贡献。同时发现短风区情形的拖曳系数大于长风区情形,说明波浪成长状态会对海-气界面动量交换产生影响。 相似文献
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海浪不仅决定着海洋表面的粗糙度,由热带气旋引起的海浪,还通过其发展演化控制着大部分的海气之间的动量和能量传递。本文采用热带气旋观测数据IBTrACS和海浪模式WW III的模拟结果探究了热带气旋下海浪对大气向海洋输入的动量和能量的影响。结果发现,近30 a热带气旋的强度约每10 a增加 1 m/s,但移速没有明显变化。热带气旋的强度越大,从大气输入到海浪和从海浪输入到海流中的动量之差和能量之差也越大。由于热带气旋的风场和海浪场都有较强的不对称性,海气动量差和能量差也表现出非均匀分布:动量差较大的区域在热带气旋移动方向的后方,能量差的最大值则分布在右后象限,且二者均为左前方比较小。逆波龄与动量差和能量差呈高度正相关,相关系数约为0.95,说明波越年轻吸收的动量和能量越多。气旋移速越快逆波龄越大,且热带气旋移动速度与动量差和能量差呈正相关,相关系数在0.8以上。因此,海浪影响着大气向海洋输入的动量和能量的分布和大小,在以后关于海洋边界动力学和热力学的研究中,考虑海浪的演化可能会使结果更加准确。 相似文献
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海气动量通量研究综述 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海气界面动量通量也称为风应力,是海流和表面海浪的主要驱动力,是海洋从大气获得动量的重要途径。因此,合理可靠的海洋表面风应力的参数化对于海洋、大气和波浪以及气候模式的准确预报都具有非常重要的科学意义和实用价值。对风应力拖曳系数的参数化是风应力参数化的主要内容。近来的观测发现,风应力拖曳系数随着风速的增加出现了先增后减的趋势,同时还与海面的波浪状态以及海流有关。基于观测或理论分析,目前已经得到了一系列的风应力拖曳系数计算方法或公式,有的考虑了海浪的作用,有的没有,但这些方案大都是适合中低风速,在高风速下的适用性还有待检验。本文回顾了目前在海气动量通量观测和参数化方面的研究进展,并建议应增加高风速下风速、海流以及海浪等的同步观测,以进一步完善风应力参数化方案。 相似文献
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《Ocean Modelling》2011,39(3-4):230-243
A three-dimensional numerical model was established to simulate the wave-induced currents. The depth-varying residual momentum, surface roller, wave horizontal and vertical turbulent mixing effects were incorporated as major driving forces. A surface roller evolution model considering the energy transfer, roller density and bottom slope dissipation was developed. The expression of the wave-induced horizontal turbulent mixing coefficient proposed by Larson and Kraus (1991) was extended to three-dimensional form. Plenty of experimental cases were used to validate the established model covering the wave setup, undertow, longshore currents and rip currents. Validation results showed the model could reasonably describe the main characteristics of different wave-induced current phenomena. The incorporation of surface roller for breaking waves should not be neglected in the modeling of surfzone hydrodynamics. The wave-induced turbulent mixing affects the structures of wave-induced current either in horizontal or in vertical directions. Sensitivity analysis of the major calibration parameters in the established model was made and their ranges were evaluated. 相似文献
16.
Yutaka Isoda 《Journal of Oceanography》1993,49(5):535-549
The higher mode predominance in the current velocity fields associated with wind-induced shelf waves in the nondispersive regime is studied with a special attention to the effect of the geographical boundary, e.g. wide strait or wide bank areas. The effect of such large topographic change is represented by wind forcing with a finite dimension near the geographical boundary. The time development processes of the wind-induced shelf waves is examined in the context of an initial-value problem, where a spatially finite wind stress is applied att=0. Various modes of shelf waves excited at the boundary start propagating simultaneously and develop monotonically within the forcing region. After the passage of such wave, the energy of wind is used to maintain the attained equilibrium condition, i.e. the steady shelf circulation. The current evolution of the lower mode is restricted to the earlier stage because of the large propagation speed. In contrast, the higher mode waves can travel slowly within the forcing region so that the kinetic energy is supplied from wind stress for a long time before the equilibrium condition is established. Consequently, the observation at the fixed point near the geographical boundary would show that the higher mode waves gradually dominate as time goes on, i.e. for the long-term forcing. 相似文献
17.
Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t... 相似文献
18.
The velocity fluctuations of wind over wind-waves in a wind tunnel are measured with a X-type hot-wire anemometer at some heights over the water surface.The observed vertical profiles of the wave-induced velocity fluctuations and the wave-induced Reynolds stress at the wave spectral peak frequency are different from those expected from the inviscid quasi-laminar model;i.e., the observed vertical profiles of the power spectral density of the wave-induced horizontal or vertical velocity fluctuations of wind have the minimum value at the height much heigher than the critical layer, and the value of the wave-induced Reynolds stress is negative at several heights over the water surface. From the comparison between the experimental results and the numerical solutions of a linear model of the turbulent shear flow over the wavy boundary, it is shown that the discrepancy described above can be attributed to the atmospheric turbulence. 相似文献
19.
The boundary layer characteristics beneath waves transforming on a natural beach are affected by both waves and wave-induced
currents, and their predictability is more difficult and challenging than for those observed over a seabed of uniform depth.
In this research, a first-order boundary layer model is developed to investigate the characteristics of bottom boundary layers
in a wave–current coexisting environment beneath shoaling and breaking waves. The main difference between the present modeling
approach and previous methods is in the mathematical formulation for the mean horizontal pressure gradient term in the governing
equations for the cross-shore wave-induced currents. This term is obtained from the wave-averaged momentum equation, and its
magnitude depends on the balance between the wave excess momentum flux gradient and the hydrostatic pressure gradient due
to spatial variations in the wave field of propagating waves and mean water level fluctuations. A turbulence closure scheme
is used with a modified low Reynolds number k-ε model. The model was validated with two published experimental datasets for normally incident shoaling and breaking waves
over a sloping seabed. For shoaling waves, model results agree well with data for the instantaneous velocity profiles, oscillatory
wave amplitudes, and mean velocity profiles. For breaking waves, a good agreement is obtained between model and data for the
vertical distribution of mean shear stress. In particular, the model reproduced the local onshore mean flow near the bottom
beneath shoaling waves, and the vertically decreasing pattern of mean shear stress beneath breaking waves. These successful
demonstrations for wave–current bottom boundary layers are attributed to a novel formulation of the mean pressure gradient
incorporated in the present model. The proposed new formulation plays an important role in modeling the boundary layer characteristics
beneath shoaling and breaking waves, and ensuring that the present model is applicable to nearshore sediment transport and
morphology evolution. 相似文献