共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 453 毫秒
1.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(7):581-607
A state-of-the-art process-based model is applied to hindcast the morphological development of a shoreface nourishment along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands. The applied morphodynamic model is Delft3D for fully three-dimensional flow and sediment transport in coastal environments. Owing to a complex geomorphological setting of the study area, the curvi-linear model includes adjacent tidal inlets and covers 40×70 km with an increasing grid size resolution towards the nourishment site in the center of the island. In 1993, a total of 2 Mm3 of sand was supplied to the nearshore bar zone off Terschelling, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. By spring 1994, most of the nourished sediment had been redistributed onshore and welded onto the middle bar where it remained in the following years. The morphodynamic model is applied to the prediction of this rapid nearshore profile behaviour. The calibration of the model against an extensive set of full-scale hydrodynamic data at several locations throughout the nearshore bar zone shows a good representation of the measured hydrodynamics. Morphodynamic results show a dependency on spatial scale: on the scale of precise bed level evolution with respect to bar migration and growth, model predictions are poor as the nearshore bars are predicted to flatten out. Resorting to bulk volumes integrated over larger spatial scales, the model clearly has skill in predicting the overall effects of the nourishment. The lack of phase shift between sediment transport and bathymetry is identified as the key controlling factor for the poor sandbar predictions. 相似文献
2.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(2):119-137
The autonomous nearshore bar behaviour along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands, is characterised by the presence of net seaward cyclic migrating sand bars generated near the shoreline. In 1993, a perturbation of the cyclic bar system was introduced by the implementation of a 2 Mm3 shoreface nourishment supplied to the nearshore bar zone, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. The morphodynamic response of the nearshore bars to the nourishment perturbation is investigated using a bathymetric data set with an alongshore extent of 12 km and sampled for 10 years. Bar behaviour is quantified in terms of bar crest position in relation to morphometric parameters such as bar depth, height, width and volume. Along with a pronounced development of a three-dimensional bar system unseen in the autonomous behaviour, the nearshore bars exhibited a 6–7 year arrest in their migrational behaviour during which bar morphology remained stable at immediate pre-nourishment morphometric values. At the subsequent onset of bar movement, bars resumed their migration at a rate predicted by autonomous behaviour in parallel development with morphometric parameters along their predicted trends. It is shown that the observed onshore transport of nourished sediment in the 6–7 year arrest results from a gradual deepening of troughs. Cross-shore sediment transport modelling is used to assess the effect of the nourishment on yearly averaged onshore (short-wave nonlinearity) and offshore (undertow) sediment transport rates. The gradual reappearance of the pre-nourishment bar-trough morphology is shown to engender a normalisation in the cross-shore distribution of sediment transport rates to pre-nourishment rates. 相似文献
3.
南黄海西侧的江苏海岸近岸区域,素以地形复杂、潮流强劲、悬沙输运剧烈著称,但是较长期的同步潮位和潮流观测数据仍然缺乏,尤其是在近岸(20 km)浅水(20 m)区域。2014年1月在大丰港附近开展了连续潮位和潮流观测,获得的数据揭示了一系列特征。此地潮汐潮流为正规半日潮,浅水分潮显著。平均潮差为3.05 m,最显著的两个分潮为M2和S2分潮,振幅分别为1.45 m和0.52 m。潮流最显著的半日分潮M2分潮和最显著的浅水分潮M4分潮在沿岸方向上振幅分别为0.84m/s和0.12m/s,在跨岸方向上振幅分别为0.24 m/s和0.01 m/s,沿岸方向占绝对优势。潮波的沿岸传播介于前进波和驻波之间,驻波的特征稍强。M2分潮潮流椭圆最大流(长轴)方向为南偏东7.4°。存在冬季沿岸向北的余流,垂向平均值的大小为2.2 cm/s。以上潮汐潮流特征为该区域海洋物质输运研究提供了基础资料。 相似文献
4.
The prediction of large-scale coastal and estuarine morphodynamics requires a sound understanding of the relevant driving processes and forcing factors. Data- and process-based methods and models suffer from limitations when applied individually to investigate these systems and, therefore, a combined approach is needed. The morphodynamics of coastal environments can be assessed in terms of a mean bed elevation range (BER), which is the difference of the lowest to highest seabed elevation occurring within a defined time interval. In this study of the coastal sector of the German Bight, North Sea, the highly variable distribution of observed BER for the period 1984–2006 is correlated to local bed shear stresses based on hindcast simulations with a well-validated high-resolution (typically 1,000 m in coastal settings) process-based numerical model of the North Sea. A significant correlation of the 95th percentile of bed shear stress and BER was found, explaining between 49 % and 60 % of the observed variance of the BER under realistic forcing conditions. The model then was applied to differentiate the effects of three main hydrodynamic drivers, i.e. tides, wind-induced currents, and waves. Large-scale mapping of these model results quantify previous qualitative suggestions: tides act as main drivers of the East Frisian coast, whereas waves are more relevant for the morphodynamics of the German west coast. Tidal currents are the main driver of the very high morphological activity of the tidal channels of the Ems, Weser and Elbe estuaries, the Jade Bay, and tidal inlets between the islands. This also holds for the backbarrier tidal flats of the North Frisian Wadden Sea. The morphodynamics of the foreshore areas of the barrier island systems are mainly wave-driven; in the deeper areas tides, waves and wind-driven currents have a combined effect. The open tidal flats (outer Ems, Neuwerker Watt, Dithmarschen Bight) are affected by a combination of tides, wind-driven currents and waves. Model performance should be measurably improved by integrating the roles of other key drivers, notably sediment dynamics and salt marsh stabilisation. 相似文献
5.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(2):115-142
The Arcachon Lagoon on the French Atlantic coast is a triangular shaped lagoon of 20 km on a side connected to the ocean by a 3-km wide inlet between the mainland and an elongated sand spit. This tidal inlet exhibits a particularly active morphology due to locally strong tidal currents and rough wave conditions. During the past 300 years, minimum and maximum spatial extents of the Cap Ferret sand spit have varied by 8 km while one or two channels have alternately allowed circulation between the lagoon and the ocean. These impressive morphological changes have never prevented regular flushing of the lagoon, eventhough the spit came as close as 300 m from the coast during the 18th century. According to Bruun's concept of tidal inlet stability [Theory and Engineering (1978), 510 pp.], the balance between longshore littoral transport and the tidal prism ensures the perpetuity of the inlet.Process modeling was believed to give better insight into the respective roles of tides and waves in driving the long-term morphological changes of the inlet. A two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was therefore developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. The use of process models at a scale of decades requires a schematization of the input conditions. We defined representative mean annual wave and tide conditions with respect to sediment transport, i.e. conditions that induce the same annual transport as measured in the field. Driven by these representative conditions, simulations run from the 1993 bathymetry show that the tide is responsible for the opening of a new channel at the extremity of the sand spit (where tidal currents are the strongest), while waves induce a littoral transport responsible for the longshore drift of sand bodies across the inlet. One particular simulation consisted in running the model from a hypothetical initial topography where the channels are filled with sand and the entire inlet is set to a constant depth (3 m). The results show the reproduction of a channel and bar system comparable to historical observations, which supports the idea that the lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades. 相似文献
6.
末次冰消期以来渤、黄、东海陆架潮汐、潮流演变过程模拟研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
朱玉荣 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2002,32(2):279-286
末次盛冰期结束、海侵开始后渤、黄、东海陆架潮汐、潮流的演变对该区泥沙的输运与沉积 ,以及海底地貌的形成、分布以及演变等具有深刻影响。文中数值模拟末次冰消期以来 4个特定时期 ,即比现在海面低 80 m、5 2 m、30 m海面以及全新世最大海侵时渤、黄、东海陆架的潮汐、潮流。根据不同时期的潮汐、潮流分布特征得出 ,末次冰消期以来渤、黄、东海陆架潮汐、潮流的演变过程大致以全新世最大海侵为界划分为两个阶段 :1全新世最大海侵前为渤、黄、东海陆架潮汐、潮流基本分布格局的形成阶段 ;2全新世最大海侵后 ,为基本分布格局的局部调整阶段。末次冰消期以来基本海岸轮廓的变迁是渤、黄、东海陆架区潮汐、潮流演变的主要控制因素 相似文献
7.
The mechanism governing the mean state and the seasonal variation of the transports through the straits of the Japan Sea is
studied using a newly presented, simple analytical model and a basin scale general circulation model (GCM). The GCM reproduces
the transports through the straits of the Japan Sea realistically owing to its fine horizontal resolution of about 20 km and
realistic topography. A series of experiments conducted by changing surface forcing shows that the annual mean wind-driven
circulation in the North Pacific Ocean is most responsible for the formation of the mean transports. It is also found that
the seasonal variation of the alongshore component of monsoonal wind stress over the North Pacific basin, especially that
over the Okhotsk Sea, is responsible for the seasonal variation of the transports. The simple analytical model can explain
these simulated features very well. The physical concept of this model is based on the formation of the around-island circulation
through the adjustment of coastally trapped waves and Rossby waves and geostrophic control at the narrow straits. It solves
the sea surface heights (SSHs) at the edge of each strait and the transport through it. The value of the line integral of
the SSH along the island is determined by the baroclinic Rossby waves approaching the island from the east and the alongshore
wind stress around the island. The basin scale seasonal variation of SSH along the coast induced by the variation of the alongshore
monsoonal wind stress can also be incorporated into this model by giving the SSH anomaly at the northeastern point of the
Soya Strait. Thus, it is suggested that both the mean state and the seasonal variation are caused mainly by wind stress forcing.
Minor modification by the seasonal heat flux forcing brings the amplitude and the phase of the seasonal variation closer to
the observed values. 相似文献
8.
Observations of the residual fluxes of water, salt and suspended sediment are presented for seven stations along the Tamar Estuary. The data include measurements over single spring and neap tidal cycles, and are generally applicable to medium or high run-off conditions.Surface to bed differences in salinity are typically of the order of several parts per thousand. Gravitational circulation is an important component of residual flow in the deep, lower reaches of the estuary. Here, Stokes drift is insignificant. In the shallow upper reaches, the major residual currents are generated by Stokes drift and freshwater inputs. Data are compared with predictions from Hansen and Rattray's (1966) model of estuarine circulation.Salt fluxes due to tidal pumping and vertical shear are directed up-estuary at spring tides, tidal pumping being dominant. Tidal pumping of salt is also directed up-estuary at neap tides, although it is insignificant in the lower reaches, where vertical shear dominates.Tidal pumping of suspended sediment is directed up-estuary near the head at spring tides, and probably contributes to the formation of the turbidity maximum. The existence of the turbidity maximum is predicted using a simplified model of the transport of water and sediment. The model shows that an additional mechanism for the existence of the turbidity maximum is an up-estuary maximum in the tidal current speeds (and thus resuspension). In the lower reaches, transport of suspended sediment is directed down-estuary at both spring and neap tides, and sediment is essentially flushed to sea with the fresh water. 相似文献
9.
Process-based modeling of morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The morphodynamic evolution of an idealized inlet system is investigated using a 2-D depthaveraged process-based model,incorporating the hydrodynamic equations,Englund-Hansen’s sediment transport formula and the mass conservation equation.The model has a fixed geometry,impermeable boundaries and uniform sediment grain size,and driven by shore-parallel tidal elevations.The results show that the model reproduces major elements of the inlet system,i.e.,flood and ebb tidal deltas,inlet channel.Equilibrium is reached after several years when the residual transport gradually decreases and eventually diminishes.At equilibrium,the flow field characteristics and morphological patterns agree with the schematized models proposed by O’Brien (1969) and Hayes (1980).The modeled minimum cross-sectional entrance area of the tidal inlet system is comparable with that calculated with the statistical P-A relationship for tidal inlets along the East China Sea coast.The morphological evolution of the inlet system is controlled by a negative feedback between hydrodynamics,sediment transport and bathymetric changes.The evolution rates decrease exponentially with time,i.e.,the system develops rapidly at an early stage while it slows down at later stages.Temporal changes in hydrodynamics occur in the system;for example,the flood velocity decreases while its duration increases,which weakens the flood domination patterns.The formation of the multi-channel system in the tidal basin can be divided into two stages;at the first stage the flood delta is formed and the water depth is reduced,and at the second stage the flood is dissected by a number of tidal channels in which the water depth increases in response to tidal scour. 相似文献
10.
In the light of global warming and sea level rise there are many coastal beaches that suffer from erosion. Beach nourishment has become a common practice to maintain the sediment balance on a shore-face. In this paper, a three-dimensional numerical model for evaluating long-term impact of beach nourishment projects has been developed. The model addresses the longstanding complex issue of coastal morphology and sediment grain size distribution from an unconventional angle, which exploits the strong links between grain size distribution and the prevailing transport direction of each sediment constituent under ‘average’ wave and storm action. The present model predicts the redistribution of nourished sediment according to the subtle clues implied by equilibrium distribution curves and latest coastal wave transformation theories. After verification against recent field observations in Terschelling, The Netherlands, the model was used to predict long-term effects of different beach nourishment strategies. It was found that: (a) given the source sediment available in Terschelling the tactics of large volume and less frequent implementation are better than otherwise; and (b) from a pure engineering point of view, waterline nourishment outperforms offshore trough nourishment.The model offers an additional tool for coastal engineers to evaluate the feasibility, effectiveness and the optimization of dumping locations for beach nourishment projects. It is also a useful tool for stratigraphic modelling of shallow-marine sedimentation in conjunction with sea level changes. 相似文献
11.
Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.
The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp. 相似文献
12.
东海岛是全国第五大岛,其东部长达28km的海滩是"中国第一长滩"。近年来因海平面上升和人类开发,该海滩局部出现较为严重的海岸侵蚀。基于高精度GPS监测结果及表层沉积物粒度测试结果,使用GSTA趋势分析模型,研究了东海岛东北部砂质岸滩的季节性冲淤变化及沉积物运移趋势,探讨了海岸侵蚀机制。结果表明,研究区岸滩沉积物的运移主要受潮流的控制,以沿岸向北运移为主。研究区南部岸滩紧邻低滩灯塔形成的波影区,沉积物供应较少,岸滩以侵蚀为主;研究区北部沿岸流搬运的沉积物能从南侧得到补给,加之向岸运移的沉积物,岸滩多处于淤积状态。 相似文献
13.
The sea level variations along Visakhapatnam coast are governed by astronomical tides and nontidal oscillations including atmospheric pressure, winds, coastal currents, Ekman Pumping, and river influx. Tidal and nontidal sea level oscillations are usually studied separately because of the vastly different ways in which they are forced. In this study the tidal oscillations along Visakhapatnam are analyzed using GOTIC2 tidal model. The correlation between monthly mean sea level and monthly mean tides is 47% (r = 0.68) and increases to 54% (r = 0.74) when applied for inverse-barometric effect. The major six partial tides are computed and presented. The tidal variations from Neap tide to Spring tide are studied. 相似文献
14.
An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves). 相似文献
15.
砂质底质潮汐水道均衡态模拟初探 总被引：4，自引：2，他引：2
以过程模拟法探讨了发育在砂质堆积体上的潮汐水道的均衡态问题.在潮汐作用为主导、初始状况为平坦海底、底质粒度均一等条件下,利用修正的Bagnold推移质输沙率公式和沉积物连续方程,建立砂质潮汐水道均衡态的一维模型.数值实验结果表明,潮汐水道达到均衡态的时间尺度为10a以上,水道形成的早期冲刷速度较快,随着时间的推移,冲刷减缓.从水道冲刷出来的物质在水道前方形成堆积体.潮汐水道的演变受控于水动力变化和沉积物冲淤的负反馈机制,水道均衡态主要与沉积物粒径、涨落潮流速、历时、流速沿水道轴向分布的组合特征有关.流场特征决定了水道均衡态的形态;在沉积物组分均一的情况下水道均衡深度与潮流流速呈正相关;达到均衡态的时间尺度与沉积物粒径、涨落潮历时、流速的变化以及水道规模有关.沉积物临界起动流速随深度的变化对水道均衡态有较大影响. 相似文献
16.
岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。 相似文献
17.
Vast bay-type tidal inlets can be found along the coastal zones of China. They are generally suitable for deep water channels and large harbors because of the presence of large water depth and good mooring conditions. The deep channel, in front of the head of Caofeidian Island in Bohai Bay, China, is a typical bay-type tidal inlet system. The tidal current, a type of reverse flow, makes the key contribution to maintain the deep water depth. The co-action of waves and tidal currents is the main dynamic force for sediment motion. Waves have significant influence on the sediment concentration. Based on the characteristics of waves, tidal currents, sediment and seabed evolution in Caofeidian sea area, a 2D mathematical model for sediment transport under influence of waves and tidal currents is developed to study the development schemes of the Caofeidian Harbor. The model has been verified for spring and neap tides, in winter as well as in summer of 2006. The calculated tidal stages, flow velocities, flow directions and sediment concentrations at 15 stations are in good agreement with the observations. Furthermore, the calculated data on pattern and magnitude of sedimentation and erosion in the related area agree well with the observations. This model has been used to study the effects of the reclamation scheme for Caofeidian Harbor on the hydrodynamic environment, sediment transport and morphological changes. Attentions are paid to the project inducing changes of flow velocities and morphology in the deep channel at the south side of Caofeidian foreland, in the Laolonggou channel and in various harbor basins. The conclusions can provide the important foundation for the protection and use of bay-type tidal inlets and the development of harbor industry. 相似文献
18.
This work provides a general hydrodynamic circulation model that can be used to understand density driven flows, which may arise in the case of suspension of fine-grained materials. The research is expected to provide a better understanding of the characteristics of spatial and temporal variability of current, which is associated with the period of ebb and flood tidal cycles.The model development includes extending the existing three-dimensional (3D) ADCIRC model with (1) baroclinic forcing term and (2) transport module of suspended and soluble materials. The transport module covers the erosion, material suspension and deposition processes for cohesive type sediment. In the case of an idealized tidal inlet in stratified water, the inclusion of baroclinic term can demonstrate the prevailing longshore sediment transport. It is shown that the model has application to the transport of the cohesive sediments from the mouth of the Mississippi River along the north shore of the Gulf of Mexico towards and along the Texas coast. 相似文献
19.
20.
The offshore tide becomes strongly distorted as it propagates into shallow estuarine systems. Observations of sea surface elevation and horizontal currents over periods ranging from three days to one year, at nine stations within Nauset inlet/estuary, document the non-linear interaction of the off-shore equilibrium tidal constituents. Despite strong frictional attenuation within the estuary, the overtides and compound tides of M2, S2 and N2, in particular, reach significant amplitude, resulting in strong tidal distortion. High frequency forced constituents in sea surface are phase-locked, consistently leading the forcing tides by 60–70°, resulting in a persistent distortion where falling tide is longer than rising tide. Forced constituents in currents are more nearly in phase with equilibrium constituents, producing flood currents which are shorter but more intense than ebb currents. A compound fortnightly tide, MSf, modulates the mean water level such that lowest tides occur during neap phase instead of spring phase. This fortnightly tide can be contaminated by storm surge, changing the phase characteristics of this constituent. Implications of the overtides, compound tides, and lower frequency tides on near-bed, suspended and dissolved material transport are profound. 相似文献