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1.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,43(1):41-58
Temporal and spatial variations in shoreline position along the southern Baltic coast were investigated using singular spectrum analysis (SSA) with the overall aim to determine characteristic patterns in the shoreline response and whether these patterns displayed forced or self-organized behavior. The investigated beach is located at Lubiatowo on the Polish Coast and is mildly sloping with multiple bars having a median grain size of 0.22 mm, being typical for the coast in the southern Baltic Sea. Data on coastal morphology have been collected at Lubiatowo including (1) bathymetric surveys since 1987 twice a year to cover changes in the seabed (along 27 lines covering a longshore×cross-shore area of 2600×1000 m), and (2) beach topography surveys since 1983 every 4 weeks on the average, extending from the shoreline to the dune foot (along the same 27 lines). Furthermore, several dedicated field campaigns have been carried out at Lubiatowo, as well as measurements of deep-water wave properties since 1998. SSA was employed to the time series of shoreline position from all 27 survey lines. The analysis method demonstrated a large potential for detecting temporal patterns from fairly short and noisy time series with irregular sampling interval. In summary, three dominant patterns emerged jointly reproducing 70–90% of the overall variation in the data for the different survey lines. These temporal patterns were demonstrated to represent forced and self-organized components describing the variation in shoreline position. The forced components could be related to the mean properties of the wave climate, whereas the self-organized components were mainly influenced by particular events or features of the beach such as storm waves, storm surges, beach type (dune, cliff), and sediment characteristics. 相似文献
2.
Grzegorz Różyński 《Ocean Engineering》2010,37(2-3):186-199
The paper analyses long-term variability of wave climate near Poland for the 1958–2002 period. With spectral and cross-spectral analysis, linear regression and singular spectrum analysis the modes of long-term variability were quantified for the most energetic months (November–February). For monthly indices of North Atlantic Oscillation from 1950 until 2006, it was established that the long-term trends of NAO and significant wave height demonstrate a gentle coupling. For Januaries this relationship is strongest and dates back to 1960, for Februaries a certain consistency appears since 1975. For Novembers and Decembers no statistically discernible coupling was found. Thus, the Baltic Sea appears to be the easternmost NAO-affected region, despite its separation from the Atlantic. The hydrodynamic variability also includes a non-trivial oscillation in the January wave energy records with T=8 years. The same periodicity was identified with the multi-channel SSA technique in the long-term shoreline data of a neighboring beach. The study shows that even almost entirely isolated water bodies are becoming exposed to global climatic phenomena and accelerated erosion of sandy beaches, typical for the South Baltic region. On the other hand, the 8-year hydrodynamic cycle can be viewed as the driver of long-term shoreline evolution. 相似文献
3.
Sixty-one Global Positioning System (GPS), sub-aerial beach surveys were completed at 7 km long Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA (USA), between April 2004 and March 2009. The five-year time series contains over 1 million beach elevation measurements and documents detailed changes in beach morphology over a variety of spatial, temporal, and physical forcing scales. Results show that seasonal processes dominate at Ocean Beach, with the seasonal increase and decrease in wave height being the primary driver of shoreline change. Storm events, while capable of causing large short-term changes in the shoreline, did not singularly account for a large percentage of the overall observed change. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis shows that the first two modes account for approximately three-quarters of the variance in the data set and are represented by the seasonal onshore/offshore movement of sediment (60%) and the multi-year trend of shoreline rotation (14%). The longer-term trend of shoreline rotation appears to be related to larger-scale bathymetric change. An EOF-based decomposition technique is developed that is capable of estimating the shoreline position to within one standard deviation of the range of shoreline positions observed at most locations along the beach. The foundation of the model is the observed relationship between the temporal amplitudes of the first EOF mode and seasonally-averaged offshore wave height as well as the linear trend of shoreline rotation. This technique, while not truly predictive because of the requirement of real-time wave data, is useful because it can predict shoreline position to within reasonable confidence given the absence of field data once the model is developed at a particular site. 相似文献
4.
Amaia Ruiz de Alegría-Arzaburu Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña José M. Horrillo-Caraballo Gerhard Masselink Dominic E. Reeve 《Coastal Engineering》2010
This paper describes the application of Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA) to derive forcing–response relations between the wave climate and shoreline position on a macrotidal gravel barrier located in the southwest of the U.K., and to develop a tool to determine shoreline positions from wave records. The data sequences comprise wave climate recorded by a nearshore directional wave buoy and video-derived shorelines over a time span of one year and a half. The hydrodynamic conditions are used to determine the probability density function of wave heights and alongshore energy fluxes. These are then related to shoreline change through a CCA analysis. The CCA analysis identifies patterns of behaviour of the wave conditions and the shoreline position, and the relation between both patterns is found to provide useful information about the beach response to wave action. The analysis shows that the movement of sediment is greater at the southern end of the study area and that there is an immediate shoreline response to the wave action. In the case of coastal management it is more often the case that wave forecasts are available on a routine basis. The ability of the CCA to provide useful estimates of shorelines from wave conditions was tested by using measured waves to calculate the corresponding shoreline position from additional data at the end of the sequences. Shoreline positions determined with the CCA agreed well with the measured ones. Thus, the CCA is found to be a useful tool to determine unknown shoreline positions and support effective coastal management if good quality hydrodynamic and morphological data are available to input into the initial set-up of the technique. 相似文献
5.
The fishery harbor of Karaburun coastal village is located at the south west coast of the Black Sea. The significant waves coming from north eastern direction cause considerable rate of sediment transport along 4 km sandy beach towards the fishery harbor in the region. The resulting sediment deposition near and inside the harbor entrance prevents the boat traffic and cause a vital problem for the harbor operations. In order to determine the level and reasons of the sediment transport, the long-term observations of shoreline changes, the long-term statistical analysis of wind and wave characteristics in the region, and sediment properties have been performed. The data obtained from observations, measurements and analysis were discussed. The long-term statistics of deep water significant wave heights for each direction was discussed by comparing the results obtained from different data sources and methods. For shoreline evolution, the numerical study using one-line model was applied to describe the shoreline changes with respect to probable wave conditions. Initial shoreline was obtained from the digitized image in 1996 since there was no previous shoreline measurement of the site. The results were compared using the techniques of remote sensing obtained from sequent images using IKONOS and IRS1C/D satellites. 相似文献
6.
Equilibrium headland-bay beach systems have been mathematically described by logarithmic, parabolic and hyperbolic curve functions. The largest system of this type reported to date has a shoreline length of about 62 km. In the present study, an apparent headland-bay system is presented which has a shoreline length of about 500 km. It was discovered on satellite images, and is located between Cabo de Santa Maria in Portugal and the coastal city of Rabat in Morocco. It appears to be controlled by long-period North Atlantic swells diffracting around Cabo São Vicente at the south-western tip of Portugal, in combination with SW–SE wind wave climates impinging on the northern shoreline of Cádiz Bay. The coast shows two marked departures from the equilibrium shoreline along its central section north and south of the Strait of Gibraltar, which are easily explained. Thus, the promontories to the north of the strait still exist because there has not been sufficient time to erode these back to the equilibrium shoreline since postglacial sea-level recovery. The coastal indentation to the south is explained by an insufficient sediment supply from terrestrial sources to facilitate the required beach accretion. Perfectly adjusted planimetric headland-bay shoreline shapes represent situations where wave orthogonals approach the coast at right angles everywhere, i.e. there is no longer any alongshore sediment transport. Equilibrium shorelines form independently of the grain size of the beach sediment, whereas morphodynamic beach states are indirectly affected by the shoreline shapes because the latter are modulated by wave period and breaker height which also control the morphodynamic response of the beach in combination with the local grain size. 相似文献
7.
海滩体积时空变化和波浪场的奇异谱分析 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：2
海滩响应波浪动力作用的变化是海岸带陆海相互作用研究的重要内容.利用奇异谱分解方法对南湾海滩连续实测剖面的体积变化值与南湾逐日波高变化值的相关关系进行了探讨,以诊断分析波浪在海滩变化过程中的内在作用机制,结果表明:(1)海滩体积的时空变化与波浪作用力有明显的相关关系;(2)海滩响应波浪动力作用变化最明显的地方是在中间岸段,在直线岸段次之,在遮蔽岸段最弱;(3)对海滩变化有较强作用的波浪场分别位于近岸及其与上下岬角连线的邻近区域. 相似文献
8.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(7):531-556
A simple new shoreline change model has been developed and calibrated/evaluated with several sets of high quality field data. The model is based upon the general observation that the shoreline tends to approach an equilibrium position exponentially with time when subjected to constant forcing. The model represents the shoreline response to cross-shore processes only and is extremely efficient, requiring only readily obtainable wave and water-level data as input. Shoreline changes are forced by changes in the local water surface elevation due to a combination of local tide, storm surge and wave-induced setup. The model contains three adjustable parameters, representing a baseline condition from which equilibrium shoreline displacements are calculated, and two rate constants, all of which are evaluated by minimizing the error between model hindcasts and several historical shoreline data sets. Several possible forms for the rate parameters, incorporating local wave and sediment properties, were considered and evaluated. At most sites, the model has proven successful in predicting large-scale shoreline response to local water level and wave forcing. The combination of model accuracy and efficiency, along with the minimal data required to drive the model, make it a potentially useful tool in many coastal engineering applications. As more high-quality shoreline, wave and water-level data sets become available, significant improvements can be made in the determination of the rate parameter governing the time scale of the beach response. 相似文献
9.
10.
The empirical bay shape model proposed by Hsu and Evans in 1989 for predicting the static planform of a pocket beach is expanded to enable the calculation of three-dimensional beach changes on a pocket beach with a seawall. The original formulation was developed on the basis of a second-order regression analysis. Unlike the one-line model of shoreline changes, the model of Hsu and Evans does not require repeated calculations of the wave field and shoreline position, because it was derived on the assumption of null sediment movement within a pocket beach in static equilibrium, hence without the need of applying the continuity condition of total sand volume in the calculation. The expanded model proposed by the present authors satisfies the total sand budget on a pocket beach, by taking into account the concept of depth change due to longshore sand transport. Model tests were carried out and the new model was further applied to the beach changes at Kemigawa on the northeast of Tokyo Bay in Chiba Prefecture, as well as at Oarai in Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan. On both locations, seawall has been installed as countermeasures against beach erosion, where wave sheltering effect of the main breakwater and beach changes in front of the seawall has also been observed. With this expansion, the present model can be applied to predict the three-dimensional beach changes on a coast with seawall on a pocket beach. 相似文献
11.
Sutat Weesakul Thamnoon Rasmeemasmuang Somruthai Tasaduak Chanon Thaicharoen 《Coastal Engineering》2010
A numerical model is developed to compute the shoreline planform in a crenulate bay beach. The new model combines polar and Cartesian coordinates and can be used effectively to compute a hooked zone shoreline in the lee of upcoast headland. The model is calibrated using laboratory data with an incident wave angle ranging from 25° to 60°. The results of calibration and verification suggest that the ratio of the sediment transport parameters by wave and longshore current in this model is close to unity, and the computed shoreline planforms for the hooked and unhooked zones are in good agreement with the ones measured, especially when a bay is close to static equilibrium. In addition, the bay shape calculated by the present model is similar to that given by the well-known empirical parabolic equation for a bay in static equilibrium. The process of bay shape development from a straight beach to a static equilibrium bay is studied using laboratory experiments and the present numerical model. The temporal variations in the computed longshore sediment transport at different locations within a bay beach are analyzed. From this the decrease in the sediment transport becomes apparent while a bay beach changes its shape from straight toward a state of equilibrium. Based on this experience, it may be concluded that the present numerical model can produce a temporal change in the shoreline planform of a crenulate bay beach from a transition state to static equilibrium subject to seasonal wave action. 相似文献
12.
Empirical orthogonal functions (EOFs) or principal components were used to extract the significant modes of shoreline variability from several data sets collected at three very different locations. Although EOFs have proven to be a valuable tool in the analysis of nearshore data, most applications have focused on the ability of the technique to describe cross-shore or profile variability. Here however, EOFs were used to help identify the dominant modes of longshore shoreline variability at Duck, North Carolina, the Gold Coast, Australia, and at several locations within the Columbia River Littoral Cell in the U.S. Pacific Northwest. In part one of this analysis, characteristic patterns of shoreline variability identified by the EOF analysis are described in detail. At each site, the dominant modes consisting of the first four eigenfunctions were found to describe nearly 95% of the total shoreline variability. At both Duck and the Gold Coast, several interesting longshore periodic features suggestive of sand waves were identified, while boundary effects related to natural headlands and navigational structures/entrances dominated the Pacific Northwest data sets. 相似文献
13.
深圳大鹏半岛南岸西冲海滩的沉积物来源、平面形态稳定性及横向变化 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The coast of the Dapeng Peninsula has been honored as one of "the eight most beautiful coasts in China". The most precious tourism resource for the peninsula is headland bay beaches, among which the beach at Xichong on the southern coast of the peninsula is the longest and the most important one. The information of the stability, sedimentary source and shape change of the beach is very important for maintaining the beach in terms of sustainable development of the peninsula. Heavy minerals in the sand of the beach and the inland stream at Xichong are compared with those of a nearby beach on the same coast to determine the beach sand source; with help of a computer software, MEPBAY, the equilibrium planforms of the beaches on the peninsula are compared with those of an island without rivers to evaluate the stream’s effects on the beach stability; cross shore profiles along the Xichong beach are also surveyed in different seasons of a year to assess the annual shore normal beach changes affected by the stream input, and the relation between the equilibrium planform state and cross shore changes of the beach. It is shown that(1) stream is the main sedimentary source of the beach and the weathering materials of the rocky headlands on both sides of the bay transported by waves are the second source for the beach but it is limited, sand from an inner shelf is not the sedimentary source for the beach at present and was not even during the Holocene transgression;(2) the Xichong beach cannot reach static equilibrium around the entire bay shoreline, the segment of the shoreline where a stream outlet is located is in dynamic equilibrium, and the unstable section occurs in the wave shadow region in the lee of an offshore island;(3) no matter whether the section of the beach shoreline at Xichong is in an equilibrium state or not, it is eroded in the typhoon season and recovered after the season, the maximum change in erosion and accretion occurs in the unstable segment;(4) the Xichong beach can only have small sand body since it is supplied with sand mainly form inland streams, resulting in a possible danger in which sand loss induced by human activities or huge storms cannot be replenished naturally. 相似文献
14.
利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,对比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系。分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用。 相似文献
15.
Ａｐｐｌｉｃａｔｉｏｎｏｆｏｎｅ－ｌｉｎｅｍｏｄｅｌｔｏｔｈｅｐｒｅｄｉｃｔｉｏｎｏｆｓｈｏｒｅｌｉｎｅｃｈａｎｇｅＱｉｎＣｈｏｎｇｒｅｎａｎｄＨｅＪｉａｎｇｃｈｅｎｇ（ＲｅｃｉｖｅｄＪｕｌｙ２０，１９９５；ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＪａｎｕａｒｙ１５，１９９... 相似文献
16.
通过波浪水槽实验,对海平面变化造成的波浪动力因素改变引起的沙质岸滩形态响应开展机理性研究。实验采用1∶10单一沙质斜坡概化岸滩,利用3种不同实验水深模拟海平面变化,考虑椭圆余弦波、非规则波、规则波和孤立波4种类型波浪作用。实验对波浪在斜坡上的传播变形、破碎、上爬和回落过程的波高及波浪作用后的岸滩地形进行了测量。实验结果表明,椭圆余弦波、规则波和非规则波作用下,平衡岸滩呈现出滩肩形态,孤立波作用下则呈沙坝形态。海平面上升造成波浪动力增强,沙质岸滩平衡剖面形状基本保持不变向岸平移,槽谷、滩肩、沙坝位置以及岸线蚀退距离,均呈现出良好规律性。 相似文献
17.
This paper is focussed on the derivation of a set of general scaling laws valid for both beach and dune erosion volumes based on scaling law analysis, existing and new experimental results. This latter experiments concern beach profile changes in three different laboratory flumes using identical wave conditions based on Froude scaling. The experiments with planar sloping beaches have been done at three scales: large-scale Hannover wave flume experiment (beach slope of 1 to 15), medium scale Barcelona wave flume experiment (beach slope of 1 to 15) and small-scale Delft wave flume experiments (beach slopes of 1 to 10, 15 and 20) using an identical wave train of irregular waves (single topped spectrum). 相似文献
18.
人工岛作为一种新兴的海岸工程, 它的建设所引起的岸滩冲淤和防护问题日益受到人们的关注。本文以海南万宁市日月湾人工岛为例, 通过4期实测海滩剖面数据和多时相遥感影像, 分析了冬季波浪与人工岛联合作用对日月湾海滩冲淤变化的影响, 并结合海区波况, 探究了海滩冲淤变化机理。研究表明, 日月湾海区冬半年的平均有效波高与波浪周期明显强于夏半年, 且波浪强度整体上呈现逐年上升的趋势, 但在人工岛建设前后变化幅度较小; 人工岛建设对海滩地貌变化有强烈影响, 海滩呈现出岛后淤积而两侧侵蚀的显著特征, 岛影区海滩不断淤积, 岸线向海淤进达200m, 甚至可能与人工岛相连形成连岛沙坝, 人工岛后两侧海滩侵蚀, 岸线向陆一侧蚀退最大距离达50m; 海滩在冬季波浪和人工岛共同影响下, 岸滩自北向南依次表现为稳定、侵蚀、淤积、相对稳定、略有侵蚀或淤积、侵蚀、淤积的冲淤变化特征。 相似文献
19.
In recent years, several attempts to stabilize the beach by control of the percolation of water have been proposed. However, morphodynamics in the surf zone is still not clear because of the complexity of wave actions and sediment transport. Especially, there is a little research on gravel beach morphodynamics including wave breaking in the surf zone. The present study investigates experimentally how groundwater level influences topographic changes in a gravel beach and simulates numerically the wave fields and flow patterns in the surf zone, considering the porosity of the media and the presence of groundwater. In experiments, water-level control tank was designed to control the simulated groundwater elevation and the wave flume was divided into two parts to maintain a constant mean water level. The experimental results show that the berm formed in the upper portion of the shoreline moves up the beach as the groundwater level falls and the lower the groundwater level, the steeper the beach surface. The numerical model was developed to clarify these features capable of simulating the difference of groundwater and mean water level. Numerical results showed different flow patterns due to the groundwater elevation; wave run-up weakens and wave run-down strengthens by the seaward currents caused by elevated groundwater. These deformations of the flow pattern explain well how the beach profile is affected by the groundwater elevation. 相似文献
20.
On average, five to six storms occur in the Qiongzhou Strait every year, causing significant damage to coastal geomorphology and several property losses. Tropical Storm Bebinca is the most unusual and complex storm event that has occurred in this region over the last 10 years. To detect the high-frequency beachface responses to the storm, a pressure sensor was deployed in the surf zone to record the free sea surface height, and the heights of grid pile points on the beachface were measured manua... 相似文献