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1.
The three-seconds power law for wind waves of simple spectra, already derived byToba (1972 and 1973), may also be derived by introducing surface-wave properties into the form of the rate of energy dissipation in the theory of turbulence. The universal constantB, which was formerly determined empirically as 0.062 is here obtained asB=(2)–3/2=0.0635. Thus wind waves have the duality of turbulence and wave.  相似文献   

2.
This paper presents the results of observation on the development of wind-waves which were generated in a lake water about 420 cm deep with a fetch 12 km long. Measurements of surface elevation were carried out at the end of an observational pier where the water depth was 80 cm. The wave momentum flux, i.e., the growth rate of the wave momentum, was estimated from both significant waves and power spectral densities for the wave records. The values obtained by the two ways accorded fairly well and they were 57 % as large as the wind stress measured simultaneously. The exponential growth rate of spectral densities for a frequency component was in good accord with that observed bySnyder andCox (1966) and by others. If these growth rates are applied to all the components of the spectrum, the wave momentum flux must exceed the wind stress. This cannot explain the experimental results nor can be physically accepted. The difference of spectral densities between the two successive runs showed that the increase of spectral densities was. limited in several bands of frequency. The phenomena are discussed in relation with the overshoot-undershoot effects studied byBarnett andSutherland (1968).Observational results suggest that the spectral growth of a certain component is closely related to the spectral densities of other components. Energy exchange among componented waves has not been considered in the theories for generation and development of wind-waves established by Phillips, Miles and others.New generation mechanism suggested byLonguet-Higgins (1969) was found to be able to describe the observed growth rates of the form(f)={(1/2)(t–t1/2)}2: the spectral density(f) was proportional to the square of durationt. However, the mechanism can not explain the overshoot-undershoot effects peculiar to the equilibrium spectrum of windwaves.Three frequencies characterizing the discrete distributions of frequency bands where spectral densities increased were examined and three waves corresponding to these frequencies were found to be satisfying the resonance conditions for the wave-wave interactions among three sinusoidal wave trains as studied byPhillips (1960),Longuet-Higgins (1962) andBenny (1962). The interactions are suggested to predict well both the spectral growth proportional to squares of duration and the ceaseless oscillations of spectral densities in an equilibrium spectrum.  相似文献   

3.
A method for the prediction of ocean waves was developed on the basis of the single-parameter growth equation of wind waves, proposed byToba (1978) on the basis of similarity in growing wind waves. The applicability of the method to actual problems was tested by hindcasting the wave characteristics with the method, for two cases with differing time and space scales, one in Kii Channel Approach, Japan, and the other in the North Atlantic Ocean. The results showed that the present method can predict waves within an error of 1.3 m in wave heights, which ranged from 3 to 12 m.  相似文献   

4.
Wind and wind-generated waves were measured in a wind-wave tank. A clear transition was found in the relation between the wind speed U 10 and the wind friction velocity u * near u * = 0.2 m/s, where U 10 is the wind speed at 10 m height extrapolated from the measured wind profile in a logarithmic layer, and u * = 0.2 m/s corresponds roughly to U 10 = 8 m/s in the present measurement. Quite a similar transition was found in the relation between the spectral density of high frequency wind waves and u *. These results suggest the existence of the critical wind speed for air–sea boundary processes, which was proposed by Munk (J Marine Res 6:203–218, 1947) more than half a century ago. His original idea of the critical wind speed was based on the discontinuities in such phenomena as white caps, wind stress, and evaporation, which commonly appear at a wind speed near 7 m/s. On the basis of the results of our present study and those of earlier studies, we discuss the phenomena which are relevant to the critical wind speed for the air–sea boundary processes. The conclusion is that the critical wind speed exists and it is attributed to the start of wave breaking rather than the Kelvin–Helmholtz instability, but the air–sea boundary processes are not discontinuous at a particular wind speed; because of the stochastic nature of breaking waves, the changes occur over a range of wind speeds. Detailed discussions are presented on the dynamical processes associated with the critical wind speed such as wind-induced change of sea surface roughness and high frequency wave spectrum. Future studies are required, however, to clarify the dynamical processes quantitatively. In particular, there is a need to further examine the gradual change of breaking patterns of wind waves with the increase of wind speed, and the associated change of the structure of the wind over wind waves, such as separation of the airflow at the crest of wind waves, the turbulent stress, and wave-induced stress. Studies on the dynamical structure of the high frequency wave spectrum are also needed.  相似文献   

5.
The spectral energy balance in the wind-wave spectrum is studied with taking into account the energy input from turbulent wind to waves, the energy rearrangement due to conservative nonlinear wave-wave interaction and the energy dissipation due to water turbulence. Using the Ichikawa's (1978) model on the turbulent wind field over wind-waves and assuming that the energy dissipation is times greater than that due to molecular viscosity of water, the energy input and dissipation are determined so as to satisfy the condition that the nonlinear-transfers of momentum and energy conserve the total momentum and energy of waves. The nonlinear energy-transfer is estimated from the energy balance at each frequency. It is found that the energy input and dissipation satisfying the condition on the conservative nonlinear-transfer are determined by the characteristic height of wind-wave field and the friction velocity of air, and that the spectral distribution of the nonlinear energy-transfer estimated in this paper is qualitatively similar to that estimated by the non-linear wave-wave interaction theory ofHasselmann (1962).  相似文献   

6.
Observational data on air-sea boundary processes at the Shirahama Oceanographic Tower Station, Kyoto University, obtained in November, 1969, was analyzed and presented as an example representing the structure of growing wind-wave field. The condition was an ideal onshore wind, and the data contained continuous records of the wind speed at four heights, the wind direction, the air and water temperatures, the tides, and the growing wind waves, for more than six hours. The main results are as follows. Firstly, in both of the wind speed and the sea surface wind stress, rather conspicuous variations of about six-minute period were appreciable. Secondly, the three-seconds power law and its lemma expressed byH *=BT *3/2 and=2BT *–1/2, respectively, are very well supported by the data, whereH *(gH/u * 2) andT *(gT/u *) are the dimensionless significant wave height and period, respectively, the wave steepness,u * the friction velocity of air,g the acceleration of gravity, andB=0.062 is a universal constant. Thirdly, the spectral form for the high-frequency side of the spectral maximum is well expressed by the form of()= sgu*–4, where is the angular frequency and() the spectral density. The value of s is determined as 0.062±0.010 from the observational data. There is a conspicuous discrepancy between the spectral shape of wind waves obtained in wind-wave tunnels and those in the sea, the former containing well-defined higher harmonics of the spectral peak, and consequently there is an apparent difference in the values of s also. However, it is shown that the discrepancy of s may be eliminated by evaluating properly the energy level of the spectral form containing higher harmonics.  相似文献   

7.
A formulation for the aerodynamic roughness length of air flow over wind waves $$z_0 = \gamma {\text{ }}u_* /\sigma p$$ which was proposed by Toba (1979) and Toba and Koga (1986) from dimensional considerations with some data analysis, is shown to correspond with a formulation for irregular solid surfaces $$(z_0 /h) = a(h/l)^{1 + \beta } $$ which resulted from work by Woodinget al. (1973) and Kustas and Brutsaert (1986);u * is the friction velocity,σ p the spectral peak frequency of wind waves,h the mean height of the solid obstacles,l the mean distance between their crests, andα,Β, andγ are constants. This correspondence is reached by the existence of a statistical 3/2-power law and an effective dispersion relationship for wind waves. Because both approaches of parameterizingz 0 were arrived at independently, they provide each other mutual reinforcement.  相似文献   

8.
The mechanism of the development of wind-waves will be proposed on the basis of the observed wave spectra in the wind tunnels and at Lake Biwa (Imasato, 1976). It consists of two aspects: One is that the air flow over the wind-waves transfers momentum concentratively to the steepest component waves and the other is that the upper limit of the growth of a wave spectral density is given by the ultimate value in the slope spectral density. The first aspect means that the wave field has the momentum transfer filter on receiving the momentum from the air flow. Wind-waves in the stage of sea-waves receive the necessary amount of momentum by the form drag,e.g. according to the Miles' (1960) inviscid mechanism, through a very narrow frequency region around a dominant spectral peak. On the other hand, wind-waves in the stage of initial-wavelets receive it according to the Miles' (1962a) viscous model through a fairly broad frequency region around the peak. The upper limit ofS max developing according to viscous mechanism is given byS max =6.40×10–4 k max –2cm2s andS max =2.03C(f max )–2cm2s(S max is the power density of the wave spectral peak with the frequencyf max ,k max is the wave number corresponding to the frequencyf max andC is the phase velocity).From the second aspect, the upper limit of the growth of wave spectral density is given by 33.3f –4cm2s in the frequency region of late stage of sea-waves. Therefore, the spectral peak, which has the largest value in the slope spectral density in the component waves of the wave spectrum, rises high over the line 4.15f –5cm2s. The energy is transported from the spectral peak to the high frequency part and to the forward face of a wave spectrum by nonlinear wave-wave interaction. This nonlinearity is confirmed by the bispectra calculated from the observed wind-wave data. In the stage of sea-waves, nonlinear rearrangement of the wave energy comes from a narrow momentum transfer filter, and, in the stage of initial-wavelets, it comes mainly from small corrugations and small steepness of the wave field.  相似文献   

9.
The generation of small meanders of the Kuroshio off southern Kyûshû is investigated. Basing on the fact that the small meanders tend to follow an increase in velocity of the Kuroshio in the Satsunan region (Sekine andToba, 1981), the influence of this velocity increase on the quasi-stationary path of the Kuroshio is studied numerically. Simplified bottom and coastal topographies are employed in a two layer model ocean. A quasi-stationary numerical solution with a constant inflow is used for the initial condition, and a temporal increase in the inflow with corresponding leakage is employed as the boundary condition to investigate nonlinear effects due to the increase in current velocity. Experiments for four different physical models are carried out to determine the specific roles of the continental slope, the planetary-effect, and density stratification. Temporal increase in the inflow tends to cause offshore shift of the current path. But the topographic effect of the continental slope is strong enough that no significant shift of the current path occurs in the case of the barotropic ocean. However, in the case of a baroclinic ocean, temporal increase in the inflow does cause generation of small meanders, because density stratification diminishes the topographic effect. A larger density stratification provides more favorable condition for the appearance of the small meander, and a cyclonic eddy is formed on the continental side of the small meander path.  相似文献   

10.
The wind-stress field in the North Pacific Ocean during 1961–75 is computed from nearly five million ship reports. With a drag coefficient having a linear relation to wind speed, annual mean and monthly mean wind-stress fields are obtained, and their features are described.Compared with the stress fields obtained byHellerman (1967) andWyrtki andMeyers (1976), the eastward component of the stress in the present study is larger in magnitude and the northward one smaller in magnitude, especially in the trade wind region. Differences in the drag coefficient do not have a pronounced effect on the estimated stress field. Long-period inter-annual variations in the wind field are the most likely cause of the discrepancies between the present study and those of the above authors.The maximum of the wind-stress curl, estimated from the annual mean wind-stress fields, is as large as 1.0×10–8dyn cm–3 around 30°N, and is larger than that estimated byEvenson andVeronis (1975). The discrepancy is considered to be mainly due to differences in the computed stress field itself rather than due to differences in the grid size used in the stress computations.The Sverdrup transports integrated from the eastern boundary on the basis of the present stress field have a maximum greater than 40×10–12cm3 s–1 (Sv.) near the western boundary around 30°N. This value is closer to the observed transport of the Kuroshio than that based on Hellerman's stress field.  相似文献   

11.
Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  
A combination of the three-second power law, presented in part I for wind waves of simple spectrum, and the similarity of the spectral form of wind waves, leads to a new concept on the energy spectrum of wind waves. It is well substantiated by data from a wind-wave tunnel experiment.In the gravity wave range, the gross form of the high frequency side of the spectrum is proportional tog u * –4, whereg represents the acceleration of gravity,u * the friction velocity, the angular frequency, and the factor of proportionality is 2.0×l0–2. The wind waves grow in such a way that the spectrum slides up, keeping its similar form, along the line of the gross form, on the logarithmic diagram of the spectral density,, versus. Also, the terminal value of, at the peak frequency of the fully developed sea, is along a line of the gradient ofg 2 –5.The fine structure of the spectrum from the wind-wave tunnel experiment shows a characteristic form oscillating around the –4-line. The excess of the energy density concentrates around the peak frequency and the second- and the third-order harmonics, and the deficit occurs in the middle of these frequencies. This form of the fine structure is always similar in the gravity wave range, in purely controlled conditions such as in a wind-wave tunnel. Moving averages of these spectra tend very close to the form proportional to –5.As the wave number becomes large, the effect of surface tension is incorporated, and the –4-line in the gravity wave range gradually continues to a –8/3-line in the capillary wave range, in accordance with the wind-wave tunnel data. Likewise, the –5-line gradually continues to a –7/3-line.Also, through a discussion on these results, is suggested the existence of a kind of general similarity in the structure of wind wave field.  相似文献   

12.
The kinetic approach ofWright andHobbie (1966) was used to determine the heterotrophic potential of Antarctic waters. Variations with depth and geographical location are discussed. Temperature studies indicate the psychrophilic nature of the microbial population. In samples having environmental temperatures of approximately –1C, significant activities were recorded at the lowest incubation temperatures tested (–3C). Activities increased with increasing incubation temperatures up to +3C but were somewhat depressed at +10C and above. By testing a wide range of substrates, qualitative differences were noted in the microbial populations of different areas.Highest rates of uptake were found in the euphotic zone whereas Vmax values of samples from depths of 500 m and below were in most cases unmeasurable.Published as Technical Paper No. 4259, Oregon Agricultural Experiment Station.  相似文献   

13.
Various wind velocitiesu *,U /2,U andU 10 are correlated to the measured growth rate of water waves , whereu * is the friction velocity of the wind, andU /2,U andU 10 are the wind speeds respectively at the heights /2, and 10m above sea surface (: wave length). It is shown that within a range of the dimensionless wind speed, 0.1<u * /C<0.6, there are no appreciable differences in the correlations, whereC is the phase velocity of water waves. The present relation between andU shows qualitatively similar properties as the one obtained by Al'Zanaidi and Hui (1984); the growth rate for waves with rough surface is larger than that with smooth surface. However, our present relations give, for the both waves with different surface roughness, larger values by factors 1.71.8 than those given by Al'Zanaidi and Hui's relation.  相似文献   

14.
The relationship between the RMS amplitudes of the wind wave spectral components and the wind speed has been studied at ten frequencies in the band of 0.65–23 Hz. To measure the parameters of the high-frequenci waves, a resistance elevation wave gauge was operated, which was deployed in the Black See on an oceanographic platform near Katsively. The correlation between the wave amplitudes and the wind velocity at high frequencies of 5–23 Hz, corresponding to gravitation-capillary ripples, was found to reach a value of 0.8. At lower frequencies of 0.65–4.3 Hz, corresponding to short gravity waves, it dropped to 0.5–0.7. The response of spectral components to the wind speed variations in the gravity-capillary range is higher than in the range of short gravity waves. The results obtained differ from Phillips' idea about a saturated range for the frequency form of the spectrum of high-frequency gravity waves, since a linear dependence of the spectral amplitudes on the wind speed is established at a wind of force 1–8.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.  相似文献   

15.
Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term.  相似文献   

16.
The local equilibrium between the wind and wind waves, which is defined by a range of the coefficient of the 3/2-power law between the non-dimensional significant wave height and period, is statistically investigated by using wind and wave data obtained at four ocean data buoy stations in the seas near Japan. The friction velocity is calculated from the wind speed measured at one height together with the significant wave period by using formulas of the wave dependent drag coefficient proposed by Tobaet al. (1990). The data for small waves or for weak winds indicate that the waves do not satisfy the criterion for the local equilibrium, because they may be affected by changing winds or remotely generated swells. In the seas near Japan, the data which satisfy the local equilibrium are about 6% through a year. Otherwise swells are dominant in most situations. Changing winds also cause deviations from the local equilibrium. The degree of satisfaction of the local equilibrium can be classified by ranges of the significant wave height. As the significant wave height exceeds 4 m, the local equilibrium is more frequently satisfied.  相似文献   

17.
The purpose is to study the accuracy of ocean wave parameters retrieved from C-band VV-polarization Sentinel-1Synthetic Aperture Radar(SAR) images, including both significant wave height(SWH) and mean wave period(MWP), which are both calculated from a SAR-derived wave spectrum. The wind direction from in situ buoys is used and then the wind speed is retrieved by using a new C-band geophysical model function(GMF) model,denoted as C-SARMOD. Continuously, an algorithm parameterized first-guess spectra method(PFSM) is employed to retrieve the SWH and the MWP by using the SAR-derived wind speed. Forty–five VV-polarization Sentinel-1 SAR images are collected, which cover the in situ buoys around US coastal waters. A total of 52 subscenes are selected from those images. The retrieval results are compared with the measurements from in situ buoys. The comparison performs good for a wind retrieval, showing a 1.6 m/s standard deviation(STD) of the wind speed, while a 0.54 m STD of the SWH and a 2.14 s STD of the MWP are exhibited with an acceptable error.Additional 50 images taken in China's seas were also implemented by using the algorithm PFSM, showing a 0.67 m STD of the SWH and a 2.21 s STD of the MWP compared with European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF) reanalysis grids wave data. The results indicate that the algorithm PFSM works for the wave retrieval from VV-polarization Sentinel-1 SAR image through SAR-derived wind speed by using the new GMF C-SARMOD.  相似文献   

18.
Water surface elevations(t), vertical surface velocities and vertical surface acceleration of wind-generated waves have been measured in a laboratory wind wave channel by using resistance-type wave gauges combined with an electronic differentiation circuits. Probability distributions of the values of(t), , and have been determined from the wave records.In an initial stage of wave generation,i.e., when wind waves are generated at short fetches and low wind speeds, the observed distributions for(t), and are appreciately good fit to the distributions given by successive sum of a Gram-Charlier series, which has been derived following the formulation ofLonguet-Higgins (1963), by taking the weakly nonlinear effect into account.However, when wind waves develop with increasing wind speeds and fetches, the observed distributions deviate gradually from the Gram-Charlier series. Particularly, the deviations are remarkable for the distribution of .When the wind speed increases, the observed distributions of(t), and show the following characteristics: (i) the skewnesses of the distributions of(t) and decrease slightly, (ii) the skewness of changes, at some wind speed, from positive small values to relatively large negative values, (iii) the kurtosis of the distribution of(t) decreases slightly but that of increases slightly and these characteristics seem to depend not so much on fetches, (iv) the kurtosis of the distribution of increases rapidly.  相似文献   

19.
A considerable number ofEuphausia similis G. O. Sars were found to be infected with a parasite in the samples collected in the summer of 1969 in Suruga Bay. The same species was also parasitized by an ellobiopsid,Thalassomyces fagei (Boschma), but it was rare in occurrence. The former parasite is slightly oval in shape with the longer diameter ranging between 1.0 and 1.5 mm, average diameter 1.35 mm. It infests cardiac region, rarely gastric region, of the host. It has been preliminarily identified by Drs.T. Oshima andT. Shimazu of the Shinshu University as the progenetic metacercaria of a trematode species very closely related toPseudopecoelus japonicus; its adult was originally reported to infest several bathypelagic fishes and the encysted stage was also found in jack mackerel from Suruga Bay byYamaguti (1938). The occurrence of the metacercaria inE. similis from the area may be new to science, althoughG. O. Sars (1885) has reported the immature forms ofDistomum filiferum G. O. Sars inNematoscelis megalops G. O. Sars andThysanoessa gregaria G. O. Sars and the crustaceans of wide variety have been proved to serve as the second intermediate host of various trematodes. The euphausiids infected with the metacercaria were concentrated in the innermost part of the bay. This might suggest the presence of the euphausiid population which is confined to the geographical area for some period. The metacercaria may be used as a “biological tag” to trace the migratory range of the host when the life history of the parasite is elucidated. The finding ofT. fagei in the area may be the first record of occurrence of the species in the western North Pacific, andE. similis is now recorded as the fourteenth known host euphausiid of the ellobiopsid.  相似文献   

20.
Iodine in sea water of the Pacific was determined with special interest in the relation between iodide and iodate in the surface water of the ocean. The result was discussed with reference to the mechanism of iodide formation proposed byTsunogai andSase. The concentration of iodide varies widely from the lower value than the detection limit to 0.21g at./l, while the concentration of total iodine is nearly constant and the mean value is 0.41g at./l. The vertical profile of iodide often shows the maximum in the surface layer. In the surface layer, the concentration of iodide is higher in warm water (0,10g at./l on the average) than that in cold water of lower temperature than 20° C (0.03g at/l). The highest concentration of iodide among the warm waters is found in the surface water of the equatorial area (0.13g at./l) where the biological productivity is also high. Iodide is generally more enriched in the water having higher biological activity even in the cold water. These results are considered to be compatible with the mechanism of iodide formation proposed.  相似文献   

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